rubbermaid enclosures?

i've been looking through some threads on here and noticed some of you have rubbermaid enclosures(sorry don't kno the proper word for it) are these better cause they look like they would melt or something.

The rubbermaid/sterilite enclosure solution is one of the easier solutions out there for keeping snakes. They hold heat/humidity very well, and kept correctly, are very secure. They're also very cost and space effective. With a six tub rack, you can go to Target and purchase additional tubs to replace the ones that are dirty and have new, clean tubs to interchange with the ones that are currently being used.

With even a medium sized collection, there's no other way to go IMO. I would be lost with tons of glass vivs all over the place! :)

Hope this helps!

ya thanks for the help:)

do you know how big of a rubber maid i would need for a juvinile ball python
?

I use tubs only for my BP's, for the Juveniles I use Sterilite #1986 and for the adults I use Sterilite 1960. For the Rubber Maid version for the 1986 is the 31qt, measurments are 6.5 x 26.1 x 15.6 is what is written on the label. I don't know what the 1960 Rubber Maid equivelent is. Tubs are much easier to maintain and control by far and very cost effective. I have used Viv's in the past and now will stay with tubs.

In about two months I'm upgrading.

Check out www.herpenclosures.com

Way to go Melanie! I LOVE my herpenclosures rack!

This is very interesting to me. Are there any differences between a sterilite and a glass tank? How do you keep the air from getting stagnant?

you drill or use a soldering iron to poke holes in the tubs as needed. i think there is a caresheet or sticky somewhere on this?


vaughn

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Originally Posted by LBWilson

This is very interesting to me. Are there any differences between a sterilite and a glass tank? How do you keep the air from getting stagnant?

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The sterelite (and others like it) are actually a lot easier to control proper humidity and temps in. This is what people keep saying, anyhow...I haven't tried one myself yet. LOL But I believe 'em.

To create air circulation in there, though, you have to put holes around the edges of the tub. The two best methods for that are to drill them, or to use a soldering iron and melt them. I HAVE done that because I use plastic tubs to hold the critters when we move. Melting holes is quick and easy.

Not to mention that the tubs are a lot cheaper than glass vivs.

Also when my ambient humidity gets too high (and most anytime as well), it also helps to run a fan in the room. Works great.

Do you use flexwatt then?

Yes, I do. I also use a rack system. I have a thermostat to control the temps, and I have no problems. :D

Christie has a really nice rack... Mine's bigger... but I've seen pics of her rack... and WOW! :)

I can see using these racks for multiple snakes and I have heard that they work well for what they do. But what about the snakes quality of life? I have each juvenile in a 20L with separate heaters and thermostats, 2 hides and a 12 inch tall climb... just in case he or she wants to climb. Can you do all that with sterlite as easily?


Thanks!

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Originally Posted by ddbjdealer

Christie has a really nice rack... Mine's bigger... but I've seen pics of her rack... and WOW! :)

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You had private pics too. ;) Glad you enjoyed them. lol I have a new one too. :neener:

Here are a few BP's in 32 qt Sterilites. Very easy to heat, clean, and when I want to raise the humidity, I mist and it stays nice while they go thru their shed. Always donut sheds since I switched over to all racks.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...1/e4f57440.jpg

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Originally Posted by Krazybob

I can see using these racks for multiple snakes and I have heard that they work well for what they do. But what about the snakes quality of life? I have each juvenile in a 20L with separate heaters and thermostats, 2 hides and a 12 inch tall climb... just in case he or she wants to climb. Can you do all that with sterlite as easily?

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Quality of life? I have 21 of my 22 BP's in Racks... the sheds are better, they eat with a stronger feeding response, they handle better.. The one that's in the all glass viv has partial sheds, and also handles well, he has a tree to climb on, but never uses it anymore. Temps are the exact same in glass and plastic, but the humidity always suffers in the glass.

I would say all of my snakes have a wonderful quality of life, but I would also say that not only is plastic EASIER, it's easier on the snake too.

Just from my own experience...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ddbjdealer

Quality of life? I have 21 of my 22 BP's in Racks... the sheds are better, they eat with a stronger feeding response, they handle better.. The one that's in the all glass viv has partial sheds, and also handles well, he has a tree to climb on, but never uses it anymore. Temps are the exact same in glass and plastic, but the humidity always suffers in the glass.

I would say all of my snakes have a wonderful quality of life, but I would also say that not only is plastic EASIER, it's easier on the snake too.

Just from my own experience...

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Bingo. Since snakes can't talk to us (at least mine can't), we have to rely on indicators. For me, eating every week/shedding regularly/defecating normally/less skittish are a sign that they have a good quality of life.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ddbjdealer

Quality of life? I have 21 of my 22 BP's in Racks... the sheds are better, they eat with a stronger feeding response, they handle better.. The one that's in the all glass viv has partial sheds, and also handles well, he has a tree to climb on, but never uses it anymore. Temps are the exact same in glass and plastic, but the humidity always suffers in the glass.

I would say all of my snakes have a wonderful quality of life, but I would also say that not only is plastic EASIER, it's easier on the snake too.

Just from my own experience...

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Which is exactly why Kashmire was moved out of his glass viv (my only viv kid) into a tub this past weekend. Humidity was a bear for me to keep up, his skin isn't as nice as the tub and rack kids and he's on his second fast this season.

I'm hopeful that once he's had time to acclimate to his tub enclosure, he will start to feed as well as all the others!

If he doesn't eat in another three weeks or so - we're off to the vet to rule out anything else that might be the cause.

if we are talking about ball pythons, the racks are fine. in africa they are dug out of the ground, not taken from trees.:rockon:



vaughn

It definitely sounds easier to keep up than a large glass viv. What about size? Does a 32 qt plastic container equal a 8 gallon tank? That's just the math of it. I plan to put mine in stacked 40 or 50 gallon tanks from an as yet undetermined manufacturer. I took on a great responsibility when I got my snakes and they will get what that responsibility requires.

Not to say that everyone else isn't taking that responsibility, just saying that I am not one to just get a snake as a toy and not take care of it. That last post didn't come out exactly as I meant it to.

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Originally Posted by Krazybob

Not to say that everyone else isn't taking that responsibility, just saying that I am not one to just get a snake as a toy and not take care of it. That last post didn't come out exactly as I meant it to.

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Understood, and while your snake will grow and do well in a glass tank (if the extra care requirements are met) most of the people around here find that their snakes do better in plastic enclosures. I certainly don't consider my snakes toys.

i bought a 1996# sterlite and tried to hook up a UTH to it but it won't stick is that alright, the temps are around 88 on the side with the UTH and 71 on the other side I kno these aren't good temps do you think i should go get a bigger UTH cause the on i have now is for a 20 gal.

Use foil tape to adhere it to the tub. Those temps are way too low. You might need UTHs and tstats on both sides to get 82-84/92-94

kay thanks i was also wondering how you keep the tub closed the ends are locked but in the middle there isn't anything to hold it down should i just lay something down the middle?

I've done it ghetto style by putting a book on top but I like the heavy duty clips (orange or blue rubber grips) from homedepot. They are like $3 each.

lol thanks sorry for all the questions

No need to apologize, thats what we are all here for!

What if you get a stack of four of the 45 qt sterlite. How would you keep them warm if you have a significant investment in UTH. Would I need flexwrap? And how would I run it? Where would I put the thermostats... in the drawers? Would the tubs in the enclosure require something to keep the snake from getting out? Do they require as many hides as glass enclosures? Are the clear ones or the semi transparent better?

That's all the questions I have for now. Thanks.

Lots of questions but ill try to answer as best I can

1. How would you stack sterilites that open on the top?
2. Not sure what you means about the UTH
3. You would use a single tstat for all of them that use the same kind of heating element. Attaching the probe to the flexwatt.
4. Hides and security depend on whether this is a drawer type rack system or not. If so, you wouldnt need lids or as many hides since the back would be completely dark.
5. Semi is much better. More security.

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Originally Posted by Krazybob

What if you get a stack of four of the 45 qt sterlite. How would you keep them warm if you have a significant investment in UTH. Would I need flexwrap? And how would I run it? Where would I put the thermostats... in the drawers? Would the tubs in the enclosure require something to keep the snake from getting out? Do they require as many hides as glass enclosures? Are the clear ones or the semi transparent better?

That's all the questions I have for now. Thanks.

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Here's my "stack" of three. Each have flexwatt taped to the bottom, and all three are plugged into one Ranco thermostat that controls all three.

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...8/0/Setup3.jpg

This was what I was looking at http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html...sin=B0006O0EE2


This doesn't have solid back though


I have 3 large under tank heaters and wonder if there is a way to use one on each sterlite. I have a johnson controls thermostat in one of my glass tanks with a night drop feature. The others have less expensive rheostatic thermostats. Does the flexwatt go along the sides of the containers since the backs aren't solid? I guess I would need some on each side so that I could set up a hot and cold side of the tank.

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Originally Posted by rabernet

Here's my "stack" of three. Each have flexwatt taped to the bottom, and all three are plugged into one Ranco thermostat that controls all three.

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How many probes does your thermostat have? Does it work well controlling the tem of all three? Where do you have the probe?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rabernet

Here's my "stack" of three. Each have flexwatt taped to the bottom, and all three are plugged into one Ranco thermostat that controls all three.

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...8/0/Setup3.jpg

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Damn! You're stacked..Ok that was just wrong..

So you have to move them all to get a snake out of the bottom?

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Originally Posted by jglass38

Damn! You're stacked..Ok that was just wrong..

So you have to move them all to get a snake out of the bottom?

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LOL - I just have to move one tub - the one on the top is on a different shelf. Not that difficult - but not as easy as the rack! ;)

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Originally Posted by Krazybob

How many probes does your thermostat have? Does it work well controlling the tem of all three? Where do you have the probe?

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The thermostat has one probe. Because all three are set up identically - identical tubs, identical substrate and identical size flexwatt, only one has to be measured and all three will reach the same temp (the thermostat is an on/off and will cut on and off to maintain the temp of the top one and by default, the other two - because they are all plugged into the same thermostat).

The probe is between the flexwatt and the tub on the top tub.

With everything I have seen I am still not convinced. I think I will go with http://www.cagesbydesign.com/cages/specials_display.asp or something really close to it. After all, I did take on the responsibility for my snakes and they deserve the best life I can give them.

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Originally Posted by Krazybob

With everything I have seen I am still not convinced. I think I will go with http://www.cagesbydesign.com/cages/specials_display.asp or something really close to it. After all, I did take on the responsibility for my snakes and they deserve the best life I can give them.

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What is your definition of "the best life I can give them"?

These racks (a custom 4 shelf and a standard 3 shelf) assembled with tubs and heat and the proportional thermostat was $400 shipped to my door. It holds either 1 32 qt tub per shelf or 2 15 qt tubs per shelf

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/SPJ01/racks.jpg

Go with the rack setup. The snakes will be fine in it and you will be able to free up room for MORE snakes. LOL.:D

The folks on this forum have a great deal of information to give, with that said it really boils down to personal preferrence:). IMHO, I'm glad the scale kids are in tubs. It only takes me 5 minutes per tub to scrub clean. Now, if the goal is to show case these fine creatures then spending the extra bucks on custom cages would be the way to go. Either case, its personal preferrence. No choice is wrong provided the essentials are provided for a healthy, thriving BP:sweeet:.

**Tubs still rock**:headbang:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Krazybob

It definitely sounds easier to keep up than a large glass viv. What about size? Does a 32 qt plastic container equal a 8 gallon tank? That's just the math of it. I plan to put mine in stacked 40 or 50 gallon tanks from an as yet undetermined manufacturer. I took on a great responsibility when I got my snakes and they will get what that responsibility requires.

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When figuring out space requirements you use the floor space of a tub or tank, not the volume. A 32 qt will be approx. that of a 20 gallon tank and a 41 qt will be approx. the size of a 30 gallon long.

keep in mind, ball pythons may not be the best choice for a dispaly type setup. alot of bp's spend their time just hiding out. in their hides or under the substrate most of the time. each one is different so you may have/find one that is very active and stays out alot. in the end, as long as you can meet their husbandry requirements in a large display setup(this is harder) btw. you and your snake will be ok.


vaughn

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Originally Posted by Wild Bill

What is your definition of "the best life I can give them"?

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That's not an easy thing to explain. in no particular order... As much floor room as they need or could ever want, perfect temperatures on each side of the tank ( I check them all at least three times a day), a climb if it should ever be desired, fresh water daily, substrate changed weekly, cage cleaned when changing substrate, handling daily (except after feeding or when sloughing), plenty of fresh air (I take them outside when handling), lots of hides, the best food I can give them, and other things that I am sure I have forgotten.

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Originally Posted by Krazybob

That's not an easy thing to explain. in no particular order... As much floor room as they need or could ever want, perfect temperatures on each side of the tank ( I check them all at least three times a day), a climb if it should ever be desired, fresh water daily, substrate changed weekly, cage cleaned when changing substrate, handling daily (except after feeding or when sloughing), plenty of fresh air (I take them outside when handling), lots of hides, the best food I can give them, and other things that I am sure I have forgotten.

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First off, you will be able to give them as good or better husbandry in a plastic enclosure than anything else. Second, Ball Pythons don't need anything to climb on. As far as handling, if you are looking for a snake to handle daily, a BP is not it. They are shy snakes and will be easily stressed out from that amount of handling. Just trying to help you out...

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Originally Posted by jglass38

First off, you will be able to give them as good or better husbandry in a plastic enclosure than anything else. ...

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I think the important phrase there is "as good or better" Maybe I am being a bit selfish but I provide a lot for the snakes so I expect to get something out of it myself. I enjoy sitting in a dark room at night and getting some relaxing time by watching my snakes via red light in as close to a natural habitat as possible.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jglass38

Second, Ball Pythons don't need anything to climb on.

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There have been several times that I have found my ball python laying on the "tree" that I have provided for it, basking under a heat lamp that provides a small amount of heat in that localized area. I understand it is not necessary, but it seems to be enjoyed.


[QUOTE=jglass38]... shy snakes and will be easily stressed out from that amount of handling. [/QUOTE

What are the symptoms of stress? I imagine there are several. After research most people say failure to feed is the most common. Well that certainly is not a problem with her. She eats well and regularly. I may be missing other signs of stress though.

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Originally Posted by jglass38

Just trying to help you out...

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Thanks for the help. Anything is appreciated.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kavmon

keep in mind, ball pythons may not be the best choice for a dispaly type setup. alot of bp's spend their time just hiding out. in their hides or under the substrate most of the time. each one is different so you may have/find one that is very active and stays out alot.
vaughn

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I enjoy sitting in the dark and watching them under red light at night. It is relaxing for me to see them move about and watch a wild creature in something approaching it's natural habitat. I intend to make it more natural as time goes by.

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Originally Posted by Krazybob

I enjoy sitting in the dark and watching them under red light at night. It is relaxing for me to see them move about and watch a wild creature in something approaching it's natural habitat. I intend to make it more natural as time goes by.

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How do you maintain humidity in you display and how good does your snake shed?

I have a pretty simple way. I use two flukers digital hygrometers (until I can find an easy to read and cage safe sling psychrometer) and then use a sheet of plastic that I have cut to cover the cage. I adjust that to keep the humidity where I want it. I check that when I check the temperatures... three times a day.


I have no problems with sheds at all. They come off in one piece including eye caps.