Looking Into Getting a Ball Python

Hi there! I have been researching how to care for a ball python for a little while now, but I still have a few questions, if anyone can help me out. I have used this forum to learn a lot of new information.
My first question is that I plan on getting an AP T3 cage. I want to use the heater that comes with it. Does anyone know if this will supply sufficient heat, or would I need a heat lamp also. The room will be at about 75 degrees.
My second question is about the thermostat. From what I have understood the proportional ones are best, but they are a little pricey. I was looking into more of the on/off type, but they don't have night drop. If anyone can weigh in on this issue I would greatly appreciate it.
My main concern is the heating/humidity levels in the T3. Has anyone had trouble regulating these? What do you use?
Thanks for all the help!

Hello.. and welcome! I don't know what the T3 uses for heat.. I would try to avoid using a lamp if possible as it removes most of the humidity.

Proportional t-stats are better, but on-off are an acceptable alternative. Ranco or Johnson are the brands of choice. Unless you are breeding snakes, there is NO need for a night drop. Keep your snake at constant temps of 92-94 warm side and 82-84 cool side. Nothing ever below 80 degrees.

Take a look at our care sheet if you haven't already, it answers a lot of questions.

http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules....warticle&id=52

Animal plastics normally provides the heat cable. It's shaped like a rope, and is not my first choice of heating elements. Although, I do believe it does it's job. You can also get some of the AP cages flexwatt ready. (they do not sell the flexwatt themselves) It's hard to say if you'd need additional heating, until you set it up. Most likely not, but I can't be positive.

As for the nightdrop, you don't need that unless you are breeding. If there is a possibilty that you may try it, then I would suggest going for a proportional with the night drop option. Saves you money in the long run. Also, since you are going for such a large enclosure (and I'm assuming you are going to be looking at purchasing a baby), I would suggest using LOTS of hides, or even getting a smaller rubbermaid like container inside that one, until it gets a bit bigger.

I hope this helps some, and :welcome: :gj:

I've used the heat cable with a T3 for a while. I had problems at the start but once it is stabilized it works pretty well. As April and Christie said, no night drop necessary. If you dont want to purchase a proportional, there are a couple of good on/off types out there. Johnson and Ranco specifically. Get in touch with Matt at MG Reptiles and he will hook you up (www.mgreptiles.com). Welcome!

Jamie

Welcome to the forums! :D We always enjoy a new face around here...especially when it's someone who understands the need to do research first and is willing to learn. Kudos!!


I have only heard good things about Animal Plastics, but don't have one myself...yet. I have plans to buy a T3 as well, when my snake outgrows her current home.

It's really hard to say how the heat and humidity will be in your cage because every home is different. Some people don't have any trouble maintaining the right levels, and some people have to really work at it, regardless of what kinds of enclosures they may be using.

My suggestion would be (once you're sure this is the snake and the cage you want) is to buy the T3 at least a couple weeks ahead of buying the snake. Get it all set up without any extra heat except what it comes with...set it up just as you plan to for the snake's home with water bowl, hides, thermometers, etc. And then watch the temp gradient and humidity levels and see how they hold for you. Tweak as needed until it's perfect. Then you're ready to choose that perfect snakie!

Seeing as how you're from Florida, I would guess you will have an easier time maintaining a proper environment, especially humidity.

Good luck with it! And please stick around...keep us updated and ask all the questions you need to. :handshake:

Keep in mind that with the T3s, the material used is very dense so it takes much longer to heat (even with the heat rope routered into grooves in the plastic). The benefit is that once it gets to the proper temp, it takes a lot longer to cool down. I never had a problem with a T3 not staying warm enough, especially when I lived in SoFla...

I used 2 AP T3's at one time with the heat cable controlled by an on/off tstat. Worked great! They are so well insulated and efficient, it really didn't matter that I was using a crappy tstat. I highly recommend them.

I'll leave the tech advice to others far more experienced and I'll just say :welcome: to Bp.net! =D

Thanks for all the quick replies! I can't believe I missed that part about the night drop and breeding. So I am planning on getting one of the on/off thermostats from Matt. I'm still a little confused about the temperature reading. Do the temp. probes plug directly into thermostat, then it adjusts accordingly, or do you get the reading from the temp gauges then adjust the thermostat manually? Also if the the cool side is too warm, but the hot side is just right, how can that be adjusted? Thanks again. I hope I'm not asking too much.

The probe is attached to the t-stat. You put the probe onto the heat tape/cable and set the thermostat to a temp that makes the cage temps correct (ie I have my t-stats set to 99 degrees so that the cage is 92-94)

If your warm side temps are good, but the cool side is too cool, you may need to get a second piece of flexwatt (or heat cable) and a second thermostat set to a lower temp. I have a space heater in my snake room to take care of the ambient temperatures instead.

If a cold room is causing you problems with cool side temps...its much cheaper to fix the problem by getting a space heater for that room, rather than another heating element and thermostat.

Cold room in South Florida? Not too likely! :)

Alright thanks for all the great advice! I'm just making sure that I am getting all of my bases covered. I was also wondering if anyone could tell me about how much there set ups cost for just one snake. I've done some quick calculating and for all the supplies and the snake I'm looking at a little over 600. Just want to see if I'm on the right track here. Thanks all.

That sounds about right for a T3, a good t-stat, and the snake...plus assundry smaller goodies that go along with setting them up. If you have $600 to spend, you won't have any worries about getting everything just right. :)

my first set-up (including the snake for $79.99) was $157. gosh, i cant believe i still remember that considering it was almost two years ago. but i used the rubbermaid tub method except for i didnt use flexwatt, i riveted a little bit of screen into one corner of the lid for a heat lamp and i drilled some holes for ventilation. ....anyways, thats how much it costed.

check out bryce's AP setup! he's got a rockin setup that is the bp ritz!

http://www.ball-pythons.net/gallery/...=3&userid=2053

check out his gallery for more setup pics, email or pm him on the details.


vaughn

Yea, I don't have it now, but I figure if I'm gonna spend a couple hundred I might as well make it nice and last for a while. Do you know if the T3 will be large enough to hold an adult Ball Python? I Plan on getting a male so I figure around 4.5 feet. The dimensions for the T3 are 36 X 24 X 12. Thanks. From what I've read it should, but I just want some more opinions. If not, for how long until it is time for a larger one? Thanks.

Yea I was looking at Bryce's. It is pretty sweet, and I was using that to go by.

are you dead set on a display type cage? plastic tub setups are alot more affordable and the snakes are just as healthy. a male will be fine in that size cage.



vaughn

Yes, a T3 will be fine for the life of the snake. Male or female, but especially for a male.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ecal

Yea, I don't have it now, but I figure if I'm gonna spend a couple hundred I might as well make it nice and last for a while. Do you know if the T3 will be large enough to hold an adult Ball Python? I Plan on getting a male so I figure around 4.5 feet. The dimensions for the T3 are 36 X 24 X 12. Thanks. From what I've read it should, but I just want some more opinions. If not, for how long until it is time for a larger one? Thanks.

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That will easily hold an adult bp. Males usually range from about 3-4' and females 4-5'. Larger are certainly possible but this is an average.

I am pretty locked on the display cage. Either one has to be in my room and I want something that's going to look nice as well as be functional. I've just got some saving up to do now.

Welcome to BPNet and it's wonderful to see someone planning ahead so thoroughly.

Depending on whether you are looking at purchasing an adult or a baby BP you may want to continue saving for a nice adult sized enclosure but if you are going with the young BP then best to have it in something smaller or as has been advised...provide a lot of hides. BP's are quite shy snakes so large open enclosures freak them out a bit.

The other option for you between a plastic tub or a T-3 is to go the glass viv route. Glass has it's issues but for a nice display it can be a viable option for you to consider. Here's a link from a member here who explains their setup choices.

http://www.onlinethingy.com/files/gr...ges/guide.html

One thing to think about now as well is where you will purchase your snake from. BP's are starting to lay eggs now so you are actually in a great time of year to get to know some reputable breeders and perhaps purchase a lovely wild-type aka normal male. Best sort for pets in my mind and priced accordingly. There's nothing better than a well started captive born baby bp from a good breeder. It will definitely make your first experiences with a BP that much better.

Hope you enjoy your experience here at BPNet! We're happy you're here and pleased to help you with any questions you might have.

Thanks for the very informative reply. My first choice was the glass vivarium, but after reading about heating/humidity issues I thought my best bet would be to go with an AP. Everyone seems to only have great experiences with using them. I have a 20L right now for my turtles, so I am thinking that if I do decide to get one maybe a 30L. I do understand the point about plently of hiding places for a bigger enclosure, and will make sure there are. I do have a question about getting an actual snake though. I most likely will not have have the money and the housing set up until about June 10th or so, do you think that this will be too late for a new young BP? There is a reptile show where I live on June 17th, would you advise going through a breeder, or looking into one at the show? Thanks for all your help and further opinions.

You'll do great with an AP. They make awesome cages. June should be a perfect time for a hatchling BP! I doubt you will have any problems. Just go with a quality source and make sure you get a captive bred snake.

June/July is a perfect time...even into fall really. As far as the show, it really depends on what show it is and what breeders attend it. If you went to say the huge show in Daytona this summer then you'd have a blast and likely meet some of the best breeders in the BP world (if there's any chance you are near Daytona...you should seriously go...wish I could). If it's some rinky dink show with a lot of gawd knows where they came from snakes, then I'd say pass it by and go with a reputable breeder who has some nice spare normal males.

Our calendar lists a lot of upcoming shows and just ask if you aren't sure if this show you are talking about is a good one. Someone on here is likely to know it if they are from your area.

Lol Jo, you beat me to posting the link to Rick's guide, hehe...

You definitely can do a glass viv with proper husbandry...both our girls are in 20L Critter Cage glass vivs and we only have to mist when they are in shed.

Cleo's cage:
http://www.onlinethingy.com/files/gr.../cleopic14.jpg

Carmen's cage (her cage is a bit minimalistic at the moment as we de-mited her cage this past weekend, so her plants are not in there and she's on white flannel + Repti Carpet as substrate until we sure those little sh*theads are all dead):
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...carmencage.jpg

There are more pictures of Cleo's cage on our website; see the link in my sig below. =)

Thanks for the info about the show. The one I am looking at is called the Florida's Reptile and Alternative Pet Show. It is in West Palm Beach, Florida. Anyone know about it? I have looked at your site before, and those are some really good looking snakes! I really appreciate the time that was put into the guide to making the vivarium. Have you ever had any problems with the ZooMed UTH? That was really my only concern. Thanks.

Ive been there a couple times. Its an ok show. Fairly small but with some good vendors. Ben Siegel does the show (or has before). Quality guy and great snakes!

I'm not sure which brand UTH we use - it's really stiff and I *think* it's ZooMed - but we've had no problems with them, in conjunction with Alife thermostats (not the popular t-stat here, but they seem to do fine for us as we check the temps regularly with a temp gun).

We center the hides on top the UTHs (one cool, one warm) and have the probe buried just under the surface of the aspen inside each hide, which makes the surface temps of the hides pretty much perfect every time we check with the temp gun.

When we upgrade the girls to larger enclosures when they are bigger, we will most likely move up to Herpstat or Helix with heat tape. =)