Installing Flexwatt

I'm looking everywhere, can someone please give me a link as to how to hook up my flexwatt. Its been sitting in a box for a month or two and I can't remember how to hook it all up.

Thanks

I guess I just found this http://www.mgreptiles.com/FLEXWIRING.html

although, I still don't see where the foil that came with it comes into play here...

I'm also wondering about cutting to an exact length instead of the 1ft cut lines, justcage mentioned that I need to make sure I'm using electrical tape for this. I'm wonder what he means. Just run it across the cut line to cover it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Griggs2121

I guess I just found this http://www.mgreptiles.com/FLEXWIRING.html

although, I still don't see where the foil that came with it comes into play here...

I'm also wondering about cutting to an exact length instead of the 1ft cut lines, justcage mentioned that I need to make sure I'm using electrical tape for this. I'm wonder what he means. Just run it across the cut line to cover it?

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yup, run it over the cut line, and then cover the wires attached to it as well

as for the foil? I also have plastic connections for the lead to go inside, I assume I just tape them to the floor or something.

You use the foil tape to secure the flex to whatever you're putting it on. If you're using crimped connections, you don't need to cover them with electrical tape, the plastic insulators will do. After you've cut the flex on the cut line, just take a couple small pieces of electrical tape and put it over the feed strips on the sides (where you attached the connectors) , you don't need to tape along the entire cut end.

could you give me an example how to use the foil to secure it. I think I have the rest figured out. Maybe how to secure the insulators

I just flatten the flex against the bottom of the tank, tub, whatever, and tape the two 11" wide ends. Actually, tape the one 11' wide end, then tape between the wires at the other end. That foil tape is incredibly sticky, so make sure you've got the flex positioned where you want it before you tape it down. There's no pealing that stuff off! You can tape all four side if you want, but it isn't necessary. Jut the two ends will hold it sufficiently.

alright, I think I've got it.

Thanks

The links below are all Calorique technical documents:

Basic Wiring:
http://www.calorique.com/Pdf22.html

Parallel Wiring:
http://www.calorique.com/Pdf20.html

Grounded Installation:
http://www.calorique.com/Pdf19.html

Attaching Crimped Connectors:
http://www.calorique.com/Pdf21.html

I use the crimped connectors versus soldering.

Great links, thanks

wow, ok next question (one after the other)

how to wire it to the thermostat?

Depends on

1) what did you use to wire it? I use cheap extension cords, cut the receptacle ends off and connect that end to the flex. That way I've already got a plug on it.

2) What kind of t-stat? Wired How? I buy unwired Rancos from MG, wire them myself with power cord and surge protector strip, just the same as he sells them set up. So if you're is already wired, just plug the flex into the t-stat power strip and you should be good to go. I wouldn't recommend wiring the flex straight into the t-stat, that would make it too hard to disassemble if you needed to pull the whole thing apart, or move it to a different tank/tub.

I'm using the extention cord idea.

I found this link.
http://www.reptileevolutions.com/Sec...0d42d474855556

And so I was planning on doing it like that. However on my thermostat (honeywell) I don't think there is an "Out" as in "out to outlet" So I'm thinking about cutting the wiring thats going into the thermostat and running it directly to the outlet, however I think that might bypass the thermostat altogether.

I guess I don't know what you mean by is the thermostat already wired, its battery operated, so I just need to get the flexwatt connected to the thermostat. As of right now I could plug the flexwatt in and it would have power, I'm just trying to get it on the thermostat.

I'm really not sure how I should be doing this.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Griggs2121

its battery operated

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i wouldnt recommend this because the batteries could fail while your at work and the flexwatt could overheat the cage/tub, or worse, while your on vacation or something. get one that you plug in, because if the electricity goes off then the flexwatt does too, so no chance of overheating.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Griggs2121

I'm using the extention cord idea.

I found this link.
http://www.reptileevolutions.com/Sec...0d42d474855556

And so I was planning on doing it like that. However on my thermostat (honeywell) I don't think there is an "Out" as in "out to outlet" So I'm thinking about cutting the wiring thats going into the thermostat and running it directly to the outlet, however I think that might bypass the thermostat altogether.

I guess I don't know what you mean by is the thermostat already wired, its battery operated, so I just need to get the flexwatt connected to the thermostat. As of right now I could plug the flexwatt in and it would have power, I'm just trying to get it on the thermostat.

I'm really not sure how I should be doing this.

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It doesn't sound like the thermostat that you are using is the appropriate type for this installation.

Do you have a link or a pic of the thermostat?

I can't find any links that have them for sale, but its a standard Honeywell digital thermostat. Model number is RTH110B

I really don't want to have to go back and get a different thermostat, but if I have to, is there something you could recommend that Home Depot would have?

if this is a regular house hold thermostat it is 24 volt powered. you can find 120volt stats but they are harder to find in reg. stores. the 24 volt stat will need a transformer to step down the voltage from 120v to 24v. and also a relay or contactor to control the load of the heat source going on/off. a ranco or johnsons control stat is a better/simple choice. they are setup for 120/240 volts already and have long probes to sensor the heat!


vaughn

got a link? Do they carry them at Home Depot?

So your saying the one I have, won't work?

the rancos and johnsons are not sold at lowes/home depot. you might be able to find a 120 volt thermostat there, alot of electric base board heating use 120 volt stats. you could use a dimmer as in the link you gave until you can order a thermostat.


vaughn

Ok, thanks for the info

do you have a link as to where I could order one?

(one problem after the other)

=(

for the dimmer i would just go to lowes or home depot and wire it per the link. for a ranco or johnson controls you can maybe find a grainger store near you or order it. i have bought from these guys,
http://www.reptilebasics.com/store/home.php?cat=250

if you can i would buy a helix, they are worth the money.


vaughn

I'll be honest, I'm start to lean more towards the dimmer. I Have a digital thermometer, if I fasten the probe to the ground, I'll know exactly what the temp is. I know it'll be harder to get exactly where I want, but hmmmm... Can't beat the price right?

btw, heres a pic of my thermostat

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...276_936166.jpg

that's a nice stat for your house. honeywell makes good,solid controls. to make that work would take more effort than worth in my book. the dimmer option wil work, but takes way too much adjusting imo. as your house warms/cools so does your reptile heating. if you stay on top of adjusting and monitoring it would be ok. i can't really recommend a dimmer but it can work. from my expierence housing and heating control is not the area i would skimp or try to take a shortcut on. i would rather clean rat poop first! and save on feeders instead.


vaughn

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Griggs2121

btw, heres a pic of my thermostat

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...276_936166.jpg

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thats what you run on your flexwatt? how did you wire it up to work?

I think you'd be a lot better off with one of these

http://www.mgreptiles.com/Ranco.html

Ok ill re ask the question differently. how would you wile that up for use. it will not be used for my snakes. rather something different non herp related. I'm well aware of mgreptiles, i have been in contact with matt for this one http://www.mgreptiles.com/johnson1.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Griggs2121

Ok, thanks for the info

do you have a link as to where I could order one?

(one problem after the other)

=(

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The thermostat you have definitely isn't appropriate for this application.

You'll find Ranco, Johnson Controls, and Herpstat at one or more of the following:

http://www.mgreptiles.com

http://www.beanfarm.com

http://www.reptilebasics.com


Matt from MGReptiles has put together a useful feature comparison of the various thermostats currently popular in reptile applications:

http://www.mgreptiles.com/THERMOCOMPARE.html

From a price perspective the Ranco and Johnson Controls units are an excellent option and have proven themselves to be reliable. You probably want to go with a pre-wired unit versus a raw unit.

blah, I thought a regular thermostat would work. Looks like I'll be ordering one.

How about this one? Does this look like a good price?
http://www.reptilebasics.com/store/p...cat=250&page=1

Matt will match any price. make sure you send him the link.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Griggs2121

blah, I thought a regular thermostat would work. Looks like I'll be ordering one.

How about this one? Does this look like a good price?
http://www.reptilebasics.com/store/p...cat=250&page=1

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That will work to control one temperature gradient. How are you controlling the ambient temperature?

I've done business with Matt as well as the folks at Reptile Basics and the Bean Farm. Never had any issues with any of them.

Matt is definitely a good guy and wil provide you with phone support on your set-up if you need it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shavemycoinpurse

That will work to control one temperature gradient. How are you controlling the ambient temperature?

I've done business with Matt as well as the folks at Reptile Basics and the Bean Farm. Never had any issues with any of them.

Matt is definitely a good guy and wil provide you with phone support on your set-up if you need it.

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I was just planning on the flexwatt being the source of heat.

flexwatt needs a thermostat to control temps, it will get too hot and is not designed to be used without a thermal safety control (thermostat) in this case. check out some of the links. the bean farm has alot in stock.

www.beanfarm.com


vaughn

Here's the link for Honeywell household thermostats. Yours should have come with instructions for installation but if not, or they are misplaced, this link should lead you to something. If you can't return it to Home Depot, may as well use it for the house. Even a simple digital like the one you bought will likely save you a bit on a year of heating costs since you can more closely adjust it.

http://www.honeywell-thermostat.com

I've used the Honeywell digital programmable ones before and over a year was quite pleased that they paid for themselves in lower fuel bills for the house.


~~Jo~~

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Griggs2121

I was just planning on the flexwatt being the source of heat.

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If Flexwatt is your heating souce for both your warm and cool ends - then you'll need to place flexwatt under each end of the enclosure and wire each end seperately.

You'll need a thermostat to control each zone - so 2 Ranco or Johnson Controls, or you can opt for a unit that controls 2 temperature zones at once like the Herpstat 2.

Once everything is wired up set the warm end up at your desired temperature (mine is 92 F) and then adjust the cool end accordingly - you'll need to do some monitoring here because the warm end will contribute to the temperatures on the cool end.

I was thinking that the warm end would contribute enough for the cool end to be the correct temp without installing a second flexwatt in the same cage

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Griggs2121

I was thinking that the warm end would contribute enough for the cool end to be the correct temp without installing a second flexwatt in the same cage

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My thought is that you would have to heat the warm end beyond your desired temperature to do this.

My 10 slot rack has 1 foot of 11" Flexwatt for belly heat on each shelf and the ambient temperature is maintained through a heater that heats my entire reptile room. My room temperature stays between 75-77 F and the ambient inside the racks on the cool end is around 82 F with my warm end temp set at 96 for the flexwatt for an effective temperature inside the rack of 92 at the warm end.

So effectively I am gaining about 5 degrees F from the warm end on the cool side.

Maybe I'll get a small space heater in my room near the cage. I figure it can even be on a timer so its not roasting hot at night, natural temp fall at night.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Griggs2121

Maybe I'll get a small space heater in my room near the cage. I figure it can even be on a timer so its not roasting hot at night, natural temp fall at night.

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You can pick up a Delonghi oil-filled electric radiator for around $40.00 This model actually lets you set temperature points, but you'll still have to calibrate your room temperature with your ambient cage temperature.

Unless you are breeding a night drop is not necessary.

Maybe I'll take a look at that one. I was just thinkin I'd like the space heater to turn off at night, when I'm trying to sleep =)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Griggs2121

Maybe I'll take a look at that one. I was just thinkin I'd like the space heater to turn off at night, when I'm trying to sleep =)

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If your just dealing with one enclosure - buy a ceramic heat emitter and control it with a thermostat.

My setup works because I have a room dedicated to keeping my animals.

its actually a diy wood mutli unit cage. for now its going to be occupied with two equally sized enclosures.

Heres the pic
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil.../8/Picture.jpg

Nice project.



In this case I would use two zones of flexwatt.

I'm going to be using one thermostat for the top two enclosures, and another for the bottom one since its a different size.

Awsome cage!!! You picked a good stat too:)