Soaking in water

I noticed ziggy my ball python is soaking for the first time since about 2 years when I got up this morning I am currently looking for a temperature controller to help regulate water temp when the heat lamp is over the water dish is there someone who has one that can direct me to a website? Current water temp is 79/79.3 saw best water temp 80-85 degrees https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ecdefa77f6.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You don't need to regulate the water temp separately as long as the temperature gradient in the cage is acceptable.

But if a person does need a thermostat, this is the right option:

https://spyderrobotics.com/

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ziggy31984

I noticed ziggy my ball python is soaking for the first time since about 2 years when I got up this morning I am currently looking for a temperature controller to help regulate water temp when the heat lamp is over the water dish is there someone who has one that can direct me to a website? Current water temp is 79/79.3 saw best water temp 80-85 degrees

---

The water temp is fine. I would look into why he's soaking. Low humidity would be my first guess, but I'd check for mites too.

Ok thank you I have a che with a sensor in the hide out that ranges 78-85 the reason for that difference is the height of the terrarium air temp and if he goes in to the hide out after a while


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I added water to the bedding and that’s my first thought but I haven’t taken him out of the house in a while because of work and apt I have been trying to check whenever I have him out and didn’t see any but will definitely check


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ziggy31984

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...ecdefa77f6.jpg

---

I just noticed that your thermostat reads 99 degrees. That's about 10 degrees too warm and may also be why your BP is soaking in the cooler water. You should take steps to drop that temp a.s.a.p.

That is a humidity gauge reading 66 % I have a heat sensor wherever there is a heat source


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ziggy31984

That is a humidity gauge reading 66 % I have a heat sensor wherever there is a heat source

---

Glad I was wrong.

lol I would freak out too if I saw that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If an RH meter sitting on the substrate reads 66%, the RH of the air in the enclosure is lower than that unless the substrate is fully dry (i.e. is in equilibrium with the RH of the air). Putting RH meters in contact with damp substrate shortens their life, too, since water can condense on the sensor and damage it.

Good to know and I try to watch it carefully on the humidity


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There is the small chance that it's hormonal as well...
Is ziggy a female? It's not as common I feel like, but some females would soak as they were getting close to ovulation. Over 2 years old is about right if they're over 1100g.
The only time some of my males may take a sip is if they're close to shedding.

Otherwise... Sometimes they're just weird little guys. One of mine went and made a mess with their bowl last night which is weird for them.
As long as you're double checking your temps, mite free and keeping some decent humidity, it could just be a weird whim.

Ziggy is a 4 year old male it’s starting to be winter here in Arizona and I offered him meals and hasn’t eaten since 11/3/23 I offered a week then 2 week then going on 3 weeks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And last time I had him out I didn’t see anything unusual yet I wasn’t looking closely really need to do better on that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update I got home from work at 11 pm I pulled him out to check for mites I didn’t see any but I did sprayed him for it just incase and his bedding with this and I noticed a few dark marks that didn’t look like his normal markinghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b2f65995b6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...271b277ab6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...60d031f6bd.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0c85540ab1.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks a little bit like a minor burn or minor scale rot? The coloration at least. I'm probably incorrect on that but it's what it looks like to me if it's not a normal part of his pattern. Someone else who has more experience with that sort of thing will have a better chance at figuring out what those markings are.

If you've had the snake for two years, and not taken in any other snakes more or less recently, and not handled any other snakes recently (at a shop or expo), I'd not suspect mites.

I'd not treat for mites -- even with ineffective products like the one in the photo -- without some evidence that there are mites or some reason to do so preventatively (as with keepers who use PAM on all new arrivals).

Troubleshooting questions:

"hasn’t eaten since 11/3/23 " -- is that within his normal feeding habits?

When did he last shed?

Is there a moist hide in the enclosure?

Is the only heat source the CHE that's above the water bowl?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ziggy31984

Update I got home from work at 11 pm I pulled him out to check for mites I didn’t see any but I did sprayed him for it just incase and his bedding with this and I noticed a few dark marks that didn’t look like his normal markinghttps://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...b2f65995b6.jpg

---

I wouldn't treat for mites unless you actually have mites. Being covered in pesticide is better than being covered in blood sucking insects, but neither is good for your snake.

The scales you circled don't concern me but the blotchy redness in the belly scales near it does concern me a little. It may be just normal pre-shed pinkness. It's been a while since I've seen it on a ball python, but it may be beginning scalerot. I imagine you may need to keep the substrate damp to keep the humidity up in that large screentop enclosure. If the substrate is kept too damp, it can lead to scalerot.

There are 3 other snake in the house but they are not mine and I try to keep the humidity close to 80% and there’s 2 heat pad with sensors


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

He normally sheds about every other month except last month which I fine odd


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Feeding well kinda when I check on him he’s back in the water dish


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I honestly think he's just getting ready to shed, but do keep a close eye on him just incase.
I have one male who gets a VERY salmon colored belly right before shedding now that he's older and the first time I really saw it that red I thought it was septicemia. @_@

If he suddenly seems more lethargic or he sheds poorly and the skin is stuck around the red belly scales that would be more of a concern. That could be a burn or infection.

Updat a few days ago I found mites I am treating him with the jurassic mite stuff I am currently looking up how cold to get the coconut bedding to kill all in any of the mites of what I’m seeing conflicting numbers any recommendations?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You need to get serious & fast- mites reproduce exponentially. Don't waste your time trying to save your coconut bedding- throw it out. (Bag it securely & put in outside trash- do NOT dump it in your garden, because snake mites are NOT native to local snakes & you could do serious & irreparable harm to native species if they catch snake mites from yours. Mites also spread diseases.)

Do not use any substrate other than layer of white paper towels (so you can see mites & they can't hide) for past the time when you're sure they're gone. Also remove any decorations other than glass/plastic water bowl & plastic hides. Branches, even fake plants or wood tunnels can all hide mites & their eggs. Clean, clean, clean & keep cleaning!

With diligence & luck, it will take a month at least, more likely more than that. Any mite eggs left become the next wave- next generation of mites. You said there are other snakes in your home too? You probably need to treat all- I'm hoping they're in separate rooms, but even if so, mites can travel on your clothing when you handle snakes, so they may all need treated. LOOK & stay vigilant.

This from a previous discussion: https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...=1#post2771656

Unfortunately, my roommate is not here to treat his snakes. One of them is in a shed more than I can handle he does know, and Ziggy is in a. Custom wooden terrarium.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The problem with treating only one snake is that mites will likely return- sharing in same household is very likely. You all need to get on board. I hope they don't all have mites, but they likely do.

"Custom wood terrarium" has nothing to do with anything...unless the walls are porous, not sealed? Then it needs to go. Mites may be tiny but they kill snakes- yes, kill.

Not treated wood and spraying the light killer on the wood. I am not handling any of the snake because of that and the one that’s in a shed I was interested not to handle her because of her personality when roommate is not there she has not been handled much and a 19 foot snake


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ziggy31984

Not treated wood and spraying the light killer on the wood. I am not handling any of the snake because of that and the one that’s in a shed I was interested not to handle her because of her personality when roommate is not there she has not been handled much and a 19 foot snake


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

Not likely to work. Do you understand why your snake is soaking? Yes, mites (biting) is irritating, but more to the point, snakes die from mites due to dehydration- because they don't have a lot of extra blood circulating, & mites can overwhelm a snake's circulatory system just by sucking out small amounts of blood. The snake can die from circulatory collapse & organ failure.

What are you spraying on the wood? That Jurassic Mite spray? Good luck...:confuzd:

I have an apt for him to see what is a better option then the spray of what I have it suck that it’s at the end of the week


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ziggy31984

I have an apt for him to see what is a better option then the spray of what I have it suck that it’s at the end of the week


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

Did you even read the link I gave you above to bcr229's post?

From the linked post, this below is an excerpt: (& note that I'm pretty sure that your Jurassic Mite spray is the same active ingredient in this > Natural Chemistry spray, but you can & should -!- verify that yourself by reading the labels.)

*** Natural Chemistry Reptile Spray ***


Reptile Spray kills mites on contact while wet, once it dries it loses its effectiveness pretty quickly. Reptile Spray is a solution of salts rather than an insecticide; it kills mites by dehydrating them. I don't spray the snakes as more ends up on the floor than on the snake. Instead, I spray a white paper towel with it and wipe it on the snake. That way you get even coverage on the snake, you can work it into the area under their chin really well as that's a favorite hiding place for mites, you don't stress out your snake, and you can look for mites on the paper towel to see how quickly they're being eradicated. Apply twice a week. Note - this stuff hurts like hell in an open wound.

Soap iodine mild, mild bleach, and heat I already made an apt a few days ago when I saw them


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ziggy31984

Soap iodine mild, mild bleach, and heat I already made an apt a few days ago when I saw them


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

What are you putting that on? the snake or the cage? Bleach doesn't belong on or ANYWHERE NEAR a live snake- it can kill them, "mild or not". The fumes will remain in the wood, & RUIN it for any occupancy- you might as well save yourself the trouble & get another enclosure. This one of several reasons why wood homes for snakes should always be sealed. Also the issue of fecal material (germs) that are retained in wood- because wood is porous & you cannot thoroughly clean it. It also harbors mold, in the warm moist habitat that snakes like BPs require.

I'm no fan of housing snakes in plastic tubs, but right now, & for speed, that would be your best option. ;)

Soap- bathe snake in tepid water with only a drop or 2 of mild soap (like Ivory)- you don't need or want bubbles- the tiny bit of soap breaks the surface tension so the mites on the snake drown.
BUT- some are likely to be missed because you cannot hold snake's head under water (& shouldn't!)- so some may hide on snake's face. Hence the other methods for complete eradication.

Iodine (diluted) is only for wound care- it's not for killing mites, do not use.

Heat??? :confusd: I assume you mean on the wood?

Why on earth would I hold his head in water?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ziggy31984

Why on earth would I hold his head in water?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

You wouldn't & shouldn't- but when you bathe a snake in the water with a bit of soap, as discussed, it's to drown the mites hiding on the snakes body. They hide around the eyes, mouth & nose too, & under scales anywhere on a snake. Bathing a snake with mites is the FIRST thing I'd do, to get rid of as many as you can. But again, it won't get them all because some will remain on the snake's head. The snake should be in the water for about 20-25 minutes with you right there making sure the body is submerged- you should see some drowned mites in the water afterwards, if you look closely.

The idea is to quickly minimize the number of blood sucking mites on a snake- like I said, snakes die from the dehydration- loss of blood.

He’s been soaking on his own and I have been replacing water daily


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ziggy31984

He’s been soaking on his own and I have been replacing water daily


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

Yes, in plain water & mites do not drown that way- they float on surface tension of the water. But with soap, they sink. However, you need to make sure your snake stays in the water & doesn't drink the soapy water- it will make them sick.


So far, all you have are damp, clean mites, not dead ones.:rolleyes:

What I've done before whenever I need to clean my bp (he has never had mites which I'm proud of but this might work for that too, correct me if I'm wrong!) is I give him a soak in warm water and then take soap (dawn dish soap is recommended for reptiles) and put it on either a cloth or paper towel and then basically rub my snake down with it. Basically like if you were in the shower and washing yourself off and scrubbing off dirt but gentler. After that I put him in the water again and make sure he doesn't drink any of it. I finish off the process by rinsing him in the sink which sounds pretty funny but it's to make sure I get the suds off.
I usually do this if he has mud on him, or fecal matter, or if he starts to smell bad in result of sitting in his urates etc. but it might work for mites based on the treatment for them.

edit: I'm sure you don't have to put the soap on a cloth but I do it because it feels more thorough and gets off any caked dirt from urates soaking into the substrate and getting on him. Whether or not it works better with mites I don't know.

Just one more thing: Getting a snake free of mites is not easy & it's not fun- it's serious & takes effort, because you need to kill the mites without harming your snake. Please follow directions carefully on whatever products you use, because some products more than others can & have caused harm to the snake if not used correctly.

Even then, & especially if you don't do it right the first time, they may come right back (thanks to some hiding, & also eggs left behind that hatch out) so instead of a month+ battle, it can take much longer.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ziggy31984

Updat a few days ago I found mites I am treating him with the jurassic mite stuff

---

So wait... A few days ago..as in before you posted here? You first posted on the 4th and already had the Jurassic mite spray. But said there were no mites. That was the day before yesterday.

I really hope you read through the link Bogertophis provided. There are so many snakes that are poisoned by mite sprays of they're not done properly. And there can be serious diseases spread by the mites on addition to them causing stress and anemia or infection in your snake already.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ziggy31984

Updat a few days ago I found mites I am treating him with the jurassic mite stuff I am currently looking up how cold to get the coconut bedding to kill all in any of the mites of what I’m seeing conflicting numbers any recommendations?

---

Are the mites snake mites (Ophionyssus natricis), or something else? All enclosures with any sort of naturalistic substrate are likely to have detritivorous mites ("wood mites", "grain mites"). Where are the mites located, and what do they look like?

This is also a good point. That's the other downside to wood housing when it's unsealed.

Ziggy feeding day is coming up sooN and his apt and dealing with mites what would you recommend?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ziggy31984

Ziggy feeding day is coming up sooN and his apt and dealing with mites what would you recommend?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

I assume by "apt" you mean "appointment" [with vet] & not "apartment"? ;)

Is he seriously underweight? If not (& I'm assuming not), getting rid of mites & vet appointments take precedence. The more effective treatments cause some degree of stress to snakes which is not conducive to eating or digestion. No point feeding a snake, only to cause him to regurgitate his meal with needed treatments & handling. So it's best to wait, not feed.

Yes apt = appointment


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ziggy31984

Yes apt = appointment


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

For a minute there I thought he decided to move out. :D

And please define seal wood
Like how to treat a dresser? Or with this stuff https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...192441ba2d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7afdb8abf7.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure who you're asking, but I'm not familiar with that product- it may be terrific, but still unsafe for sensitive animals like snakes? I really don't know.

You want something that dries fully- with no VOC (volatile organic compounds) that keep off-gassing, because they're toxic (deadly) to reptiles. Especially because our reptiles are enclosed & breathing anything that off-gases 24-7, & also touching it- they can absorb things thru their skin too.

I think most ppl use polyurethane? Look for "pet-safe" & usually water-based products- Oil based products tend to be toxic & off-gas for a long time. And make sure anything you use is fully dry & odor free for a while (!) before exposing a snake to it. Remember, our sense of smell isn't all that great. I can remember people proudly finishing wood terrariums & having their snake die after they moved in...so do real research, don't assume or take a "salesman's" word for it. I've used a safe waterproofing sealant for converting furniture to snake homes, but it was many years ago & right now, I don't recall specifically what I used.

You might also look into products for sealing fish ponds, because fish are very sensitive too.

Thank you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk