Trans-Pecos Rat Snakes Arizona

Hi Everyone!

So I just got my 1.1 pair or Trans-Pecos Rat Snakes on 10/16/2023. I got them from my local Reptile store so I am still gathering information on them such as birthday the parents. I've searched all over here for information and I keep finding Miss Bogertophis answering everyone's questions lol.

The female is about 24 inches long (give or take, you know guy measurements lol) and the male is literally half her size. Is this much sexual dimorphism that normal? After looking around I feel mine are maybe 6 months to yearling old. If you think otherwise please let me know.

I know Bogertophis said to leave them in their new homes until at least three feedings but my girl just wants to hang out with me and just chill so much. The male not so much lol. I open the tank and she comes sliding up to me.

Fun story on how I got them!!!! So I had an extra 40 gal tank at my house and had been wanting to get a few Black African house snakes. I had seen a few at the reptile store a few days prior and figured Id go and back an pick up a few and become the Black African House Snake King of Arizona lol... So I went and Bam, they were finally sold after being there for almost 1.5 months. So I was lost and not sure what to get, They had a Black Mexican King Snake but I just wasn't sure lol, I then saw a beautiful HET type Python and man he was beautiful... SO I contemplated and the shop owner was like "I'll give you the BP and the Black king snake for $200 out the door".... It was tempting... But then I saw this female Trans Pecos just chilling in the back of her place. I remember her from about 2 weeks before and was intrigued lol. So i asked to see her and her came over and pulled out TWO!!!!! One male and one Female... I'm like Woah!!! lol.. and held the Female and she immediately just hung out with me... I knew I wanted her and kinda wanted the male as well. They were asking $200 for her and $200 for him. So I asked him what deal can I do and he said "$175 out the door for Both but bring us back 1 baby".. lol I was SOLD!!!!!!

So can you guys help me figure out what type she is and what age you think she might be. I don't have any pictures of the male yet. as he's still hiding in his hide. She's more of a tan color and not orange.

All pictures of the Female.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/HVkxXOB.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/LxM9eGS.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/xrxsaFB.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/8QaWt0a.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/OfFmH9k.jpg



https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/IeX5xpO.mp4

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Originally Posted by Mistery510

So can you guys help me figure out what type she is and what age you think she might be.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/xrxsaFB.jpg

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Nope. I have no idea. I love that pattern though.

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Originally Posted by Homebody

Nope. I have no idea. I love that pattern though.

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Right!!! It looks like someone held a marker down and she just slid under it

She's a "normal" (wild type) Trans Pecos- my favorite, actually. I don't think the blondes, silvers or other morphs have anything on the normals. :love: I love their dark "H" markings & stripes.

I would guess at least a year+, 1-2 yrs for the female, & 6 mos to yearling on the male- & if anything, the males get longer than the females, so my guess is they had trouble getting this male feeding reliably, & he didn't grow like the female did, or else they are not siblings, & you want to find that out IF you plan to breed them, as it's best to breed UN-related snakes (not brother & sister). Hatchlings start off about 12"- not over 14" long- so it takes a while to get to be 24". I notice her head is very narrow- not so "cheeky" so that suggests she's a bit underfed- which many breeders do so that their snakes don't grow so fast, & buyers still get that 'cute baby stage' for better sales. It's actually a plus getting yearling snakes- they're stronger, more resilient, but I'd make sure they eat well from now on for best health & breeding.

I'd be very careful -especially!- with the male- don't handle- until you have him feeding easily & reliably for a while. Don't overdo it with her either, but it sounds like she's a bit of an extrovert-these are mostly nosy snakes, in my experience, once they find out people are "safe". Just be patient with him- new homes are scary- let him take his time to feel safe.

Sounds like they have some very tempting snakes in your local reptile shop. Just looking is "dangerous"- I got my first TP from a pet store many moons ago in CA- she was a w/c adult & they kept teasing her so she was very stressed, & I really shouldn't have bought ANYTHING from those jerks! She was a WONDERFUL pet despite her horrible treatment in the pet trade, & from her, I just fell in love with these bug-eyed beauties. Never knew one I didn't love- they have so much personality.

In the book "The Complete Suboc" by Dusty Rhoads- he mentions these are "naturally nice" snakes- probably because they spend a lot of time underground in rocky uninhabited areas- so they have fewer predators they need to be feisty & defensive with. They can move fast when they want to- like to grab prey- but always when I handle them, they tend to move slow & gently- they just come off as curious & sweet- as perfect pets you can relax with. (Don't get me wrong, I like feisty snakes too- all kinds- but I just have a real special spot for these.)

What size mouse would you get her?? a Pinky seems like it might be too small. But I dont want to get something too big...

Yeah I am really going to try and get as much info as possible about them. SOMEDAY I may try to breed and I personally don't want to breed siblings lol... Plus they look so much alike.... so..... hmm More investigation lol!!!

Yeah You saw my other post.. I went from no snakes to 4 snakes in a month... o man!!!!!!

Yes Ima go buy that book soon to get more info!! And yeah I'm going to take to heart and not handle them for at least 2 or 3 feeds. I promise!!!

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Originally Posted by Mistery510

What size mouse would you get her?? a Pinky seems like it might be too small. But I dont want to get something too big...

Yeah I am really going to try and get as much info as possible about them. SOMEDAY I may try to breed and I personally don't want to breed siblings lol... Plus they look so much alike.... so..... hmm More investigation lol!!!

Yeah You saw my other post.. I went from no snakes to 4 snakes in a month... o man!!!!!!

Yes Ima go buy that book soon to get more info!! And yeah I'm going to take to heart and not handle them for at least 2 or 3 feeds. I promise!!!

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Are these snakes eating dead prey (either fresh killed or frozen thawed, f/k or f/t), I hope? A pink mouse is way too small- she can take a small hopper size mouse, or large fuzzy mouse. (If you're wondering what the difference is, fuzzies have eyes closed- still nursing, while hoppers are independently eating & eyes are open. Of course these traits aren't obvious if frozen, lol.)

For best results, always ASK the source (the store, in this case) what they've been successfully fed while in their care, & initially do the same. But not pinky mice, that's like nothing. The male, being smaller, I'd assume just a small fuzzy mouse, or large pinky (aka "crew"). But do ask- you don't want to 'surprise' a new snake with prey much bigger than they're used to handling, especially while they're in a whole new place (& more on edge because of that).

Feed them at night, by the way- they're nocturnal snakes. In the wild, they even catch bats! And when young, some take small lizards as first foods. But as pets, they do just fine on mice, & they quickly learn to take dead prey from tongs.

Lots of snake breeders that sell off remaining stock to pet stores will be selling related animals (siblings), but it helps to ask- some do breed multiple pairs & could have unrelated offspring- you just cannot count on these being that, & if you breed siblings, you're much more likely to get defects in the offspring. I would never breed siblings- defective hatchlings are heart-breaking, & anything to minimize that risk is best.

I asked but I forget what they were being fed... The store said to wait ten days before feeding any of the new snakes... so I still have like 5 days for these ones... But you saying she looks underfed has me worried...

Yes I will feed right before bed time and right before it gets dark.

I feel bad saying this but its making me question this store I got them from D=...

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Originally Posted by Mistery510

I asked but I forget what they were being fed... The store said to wait ten days before feeding any of the new snakes... so I still have like 5 days for these ones... But you saying she looks underfed has me worried...

Yes I will feed right before bed time and right before it gets dark.

I feel bad saying this but its making me question this store I got them from D=...

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It's common for breeders to feed hatchlings minimally, especially when they end up keeping them beyond the hatchling stage- so if the store recently got these in, there hasn't been time for anything to really change (to put weight on them), & pet stores don't over-feed either, for the same reasons. (The euphemistic term is "maintenance fed"- meaning fed just enough to stay alive.) She looks okay, but her face/head is narrow- whereas when more filled out, TPs have a triangular head- they have cheeks that almost make some observers think they're venomous. (they're not!) That's one reason I'm not any sort of commercial snake breeder- I don't underfeed snakes, & any snakes I ever sold or placed had an extensive feeding record, with no guessing for new owners.

You asked & forgot...you're human...so just call the store & ask them tomorrow what these have been fed. Ask them how long they had them in the store, too, if you think of it. It's nice to know these things. Snakes get exposed to all sorts of pathogens & parasites* while in pet stores, especially stores that don't stick to just captive-bred animals. *Do you know about snake mites? You need to be LOOKING for them- they can kill your snakes when their numbers explode exponentially- even though each one is so tiny as to appear harmless ("how much blood could they suck?") I promise you that they're not harmless, & smaller snakes are at greater risk. Mites also can spread deadly snake diseases

I know how badly you (& we all) can hardly wait to set up our beautiful new snakes in an enriched & appealing home...BUT, the best option is to ASSUME they may have mites, & set up their tanks with white paper towels as substrate, and nothing that mites can hide or lay eggs in. No wood, no mulch, no shavings, no moss, no wood chips, no vines or fake plants...get it? Only hides made of plastic or resin that can be thoroughly cleaned, and a water bowl (glass or plastic). House them this way for at least a month, because just one or two mites missed on the snake (they hide under scales, under the chin, around the eyes, in the nostrils, & on the cloaca) can lay some eggs for a "family reunion" in a month or so.

Snake mites can kill your snake, & they require some fairly stressful treatment (stressful for the snake AND you) to get rid of- they are no fun. You got these snakes from a reptile store- some are much better than others. These snakes might have been treated for mites by the store, or not- I would ask them. I've been in pet stores with lots of mites visible-:O Look for mites on your snakes, & in their homes, in the water bowl (some may fall off when the snake drinks water) & keep looking. They're about the size of the head of a pin- can be black, or red or brown (the color is from sucking blood), & they'll be moving. I hope your snakes have none, but you want to make sure- you cannot trust them to be mite free. I wish...

Welcome to the real world of snake keeping. ;) Snakes are MUCH easier to keep healthy than to get them healthy once they get sick. For best results, it's best not to feed new snakes right away, not for a week or 2, as they told you at the store. That's because the stress of being handled & in a new home can make your snake barf up it's dinner, & that can be quite harmful for them- rarely, they can even die that, because it's hard for them to do- snakes cannot cough, & if they aspirate into their lung...it may not end well. If ever any of your snakes regurgitate their dinner, they cannot then be fed for at least a couple weeks- so barfing their dinner is a huge set-back & best avoided. That's because if they don't have enough time to replenish their digestive enzymes, they'll barf up again when fed, & for some snakes, it only takes a couple times before they can die of dehydration or the aspiration issue. See?

We really ARE here to try to keep you & your snakes out of trouble...:snake: Lots to learn if you haven't been researching ahead of time. Try to avoid impulse buys in the future & research them before you whip out that credit card, okay? We've ALL bought snakes on impulse- trust me- and reptile stores & expos are "dangerous" for most of us. :D You're among friends here, we understand. Because we've also learned the hard way.

aww dang now you got me scared!!!! Yeah I did a lot of research on other snakes, but ended up with these instead.... somewhat of am impulse but i am happy with them and will do my best to make sure they are happy and healthy!!!

So the store said they are a little over a year old and will get the breeders information for me!

ok this weekend I'm going to strip the tanks of everything and do what you said (Basic bedding and only plastic hides and deep clean the tanks).. I hate that all the things i read I never read any of that before and yet it all makes SO Much Sense!!!!

Ill keep and eye out for mites for sure. I know the store puts those anti mite chip things in the tanks for all the snakes and such.

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Originally Posted by Mistery510

aww dang now you got me scared!!!! Yeah I did a lot of research on other snakes, but ended up with these instead.... somewhat of am impulse but i am happy with them and will do my best to make sure they are happy and healthy!!!

So the store said they are a little over a year old and will get the breeders information for me!

ok this weekend I'm going to strip the tanks of everything and do what you said (Basic bedding and only plastic hides and deep clean the tanks).. I hate that all the things i read I never read any of that before and yet it all makes SO Much Sense!!!!

Ill keep and eye out for mites for sure. I know the store puts those anti mite chip things in the tanks for all the snakes and such.

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Not my intention to scare you- we all had much to learn when we started out too, & speaking for myself, there wasn't any forums around to ask back then either.
Anyway, I think you'll have far less trouble with these TPs than with the other pair of snakes you just got. I hope none of them are trouble, actually.

I'll buy that these are yearlings+. Easy enough just to ask for more information, I'm glad you did.

You know, mites are tiny & not so easy to see. I once took in a large ball python that had a countless number of ticks all over her body. These folks had her for about a year & never even knew she had ticks- they thought those were "just scales"...:rolleyes: Anyway, the sad thing about mites is when someone knocks themselves out setting up a beautiful tank, & then they have to throw everything away when mites turn up (everything except glass/plastic stuff). With any luck, you won't have mites at all- especially if you know they do preemptively treat for mites in the store. But you always need to be on guard when you get any new snakes, no matter how good the reputation of the seller, because these days, mites are everywhere & they spread easily. Now & then you can transport them yourself, on your clothing if you handled snakes in a store or at an expo- mites get passed around & it only takes one. Some think mites can also hitch a ride to your home in some substrates sold in stores, but that's questionable, not so likely, anyway.

I am thankful for this information. I just bought a smaller glass tank to put the male inside last night but haven't set it up yet. This weekend is my cleaning weekend lol.. strip it all down and clean it and put the basics in for now.

I keep getting conflicting info and I'm pretty sure its a personal biased thing but do you put your snakes in other tanks to feed them? Some people say yes you have to or else the snake will always think your hand means food and will bite you.. others says no as long as you feed with tongs and keep your hands clean and don't come at them from above your be ok. I'm asking you because you've had these snakes

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Originally Posted by Mistery510

I am thankful for this information. I just bought a smaller glass tank to put the male inside last night but haven't set it up yet. This weekend is my cleaning weekend lol.. strip it all down and clean it and put the basics in for now.

I keep getting conflicting info and I'm pretty sure its a personal biased thing but do you put your snakes in other tanks to feed them? Some people say yes you have to or else the snake will always think your hand means food and will bite you.. others says no as long as you feed with tongs and keep your hands clean and don't come at them from above your be ok. I'm asking you because you've had these snakes

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For future reference- please never come home with a snake (*unless it's a dire rescue, which you shouldn't be doing yet anyway) until you have their tank (or enclosure) set up and tested for proper temperatures. It can take days or a week+ for temps. to stabilize, & putting a new snake thru all the adjustments adds to their stress & may cause them not to eat. A tank that's furnished will take time to bring everything up in warmth, & you can easily miss it when it gets too hot for the occupant. Excessive heat (& nowhere to get away from it) can cause permanent neurological damage in snakes, & death. All heating devices should be controlled by thermostats, & double checked regularly, especially at first. It takes time to get this right for the safety of your snakes.

For all new snakes- minimize cage changes. They have enough stress already, even if you can't see it.

Never move snakes out of their homes to feed them. Shy snakes will be too stressed to eat, & bold-hungry ones will be nailing you, both coming & going! :snake2: The bad advice about feeding in another container has been around forever & refuses to die. :( Another thing- handling a nervous snake that just ate may also cause it to regurgitate the meal it just ate. So don't do that.

Get a 12" giant tweezer- type feeding tongs- they're very handy, & keeps the prey scent off you & on the prey, where it belongs. Snakes go after motion, scent, & warmth (if they have heat-sensing pits). They learn our scent & do NOT wish to bite us- most bites are very avoidable. When my rat snakes are expecting food but it's just me, I often just blow air gently across my hand in their direction so they get my scent. When you do that, you'll see them realize & back off. If not, there's other ways to "change the channel", like a mist of water, or giving them your empty sleeve to sniff.

Sooner or later you'll get a few nips- trust me, you'll survive. ;) Try not to fling the snake- they get far more injured than we do. But mostly, by paying attention to their body language, you can prevent or avoid all bites. Swooping down on any snake like a predator is never a good idea...let them see you coming & identify your self by scent- anything less is just rude & you deserve a bite!

One more thing, while I'm thinking about it: Never keep Trans Pecos rat snakes in "enclosures" (not in tubs or plastic terrariums favored by BP-keepers). They NEED fresh circulating air, so glass tanks & screen tops are perfect- they're desert snakes & need lower humidity for best health. Snakes don't all need the same things-;)

Thats probably my problem, I've had the tanks ready to go for a while, and just felt it was time to actually fill them with snakes.

Yep I have all of that stuff. Heat lamps, Heat pads, Thermostats and such.

Ok good thats what I thought and I have been feeding inside their tanks.

haha yes I have 2 sets of those giant tweezers. 2 straight and 2 with an angle. I like the angled ones better, feels like im more out of the direct path if a snake misses.


O yeah, my TP and my Grey Banded both have these enclosures. And I'm buying another this weekend to split my TP's up. It have slits on the sides and the top is that wire mesh stuff. Plenty of circulation!!

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/SvG7Uzo.png

:gj: One thing- make sure your skinny little snakes CANNOT fit between the overlapping glass panels- when snakes smell fresh air thru gaps, they will try things they shouldn't.

I literally use & prefer glass aquariums, & build my own wire mesh & wood tops. But that looks like a good option- I've just never used one so I can't say about gaps or potential drawbacks.

So far so good. Any gap/hole in these is too small for even a Quarter to fit though. Even the glass doors.

So all your tanks are open from the top? I got these because I've been told you coming from the top makes snakes think your a predator and its always best to be able to come from the side and such.

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Originally Posted by Mistery510

So far so good. Any gap/hole in these is too small for even a Quarter to fit though. Even the glass doors.

So all your tanks are open from the top? I got these because I've been told you coming from the top makes snakes think your a predator and its always best to be able to come from the side and such.

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Good.

Yes, I prefer top-opening tanks, even when I kept rattlesnakes. But I'm not a "swooper" either, lol. I give my scent to my snakes so they know it's me- they're very calm, no fear of me, & no bites. As I said before, signaling your snake is just good manners. Some prefer to use a snake hook to "tap train"- just another method, your choice. Just because snakes are mostly deaf doesn't mean you cannot communicate with them, using their best senses.

Per your pm, yes, TPs "can" brumate in captivity as they must in nature, but I don't recommend brumating any snakes that don't require it for successful (fertile) breeding.

A snake's immune system pretty much turns off when they're cold (brumating) so any little thing they might have been carrying that didn't make them sick, well now it might.

Some snakes do not wake up from brumation, or they wake up sick. Plus, the time spent brumating is time not spent eating & growing. It's a set-back for young snakes.

If you ever brumate a snake, its digestive tract MUST be empty of food for several weeks. Any remaining undigested food will rot & can make them sick or die from brumation.

I have successfully brumated snakes, only those I was breeding, with no problems. I do a gradual temp. reduction & like I said, no food for a while so they're "empty". They don't sleep deeply & need water- they may wake up to drink during brumation. I kept temps. for brumation about 50* or a little above- you don't want it too cold either. (Underground stays pretty constant where snakes brumate, if they're lucky to have a good place.)

So I fed them today.

I got Live Fuzzies for each of them.

The Female literally gobbled it up with no problem and didn't even try constricting it so I know I need to go up one or maybe just do two Fuzzies next time.

The Male on the other hand was shy, he wouldn't take the fuzzie so I left it with him and he poked and prodded the fuzzie for about 5 minutes and then finally ate it pretty easily.

What do you lot recommend??

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Originally Posted by Mistery510

So I fed them today.

I got Live Fuzzies for each of them.

The Female literally gobbled it up with no problem and didn't even try constricting it so I know I need to go up one or maybe just do two Fuzzies next time.

The Male on the other hand was shy, he wouldn't take the fuzzie so I left it with him and he poked and prodded the fuzzie for about 5 minutes and then finally ate it pretty easily.

What do you lot recommend??

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So they weren't already switched to dead (f/t) prey? If they were, you just blew it by feeding live. Many snakes naturally prefer live/fresh, so reverting to live after they've learned to accept f/t is likely to be a set-back, where they'll take some convincing again. Anytime you get a new snake, find out what exactly it's eating, when it was hatched/born, how it was kept (size of cage it's used to being in), any issues it has had, what it's been treated for (like mites), & do an overall exam for health. It minimizes their stress if their new home & care is much the same as what they're used to.

Either way, you do want them eating f/t prey so they don't get injured. Eating live, sooner or later, they'll get injured. Injuries can get infected & leave unsightly damage on your beautiful snakes, & can even, rarely, cause death. The treatment with antibiotics for resulting infections can have negative side effects too, so best avoided (not to mention the cost of vet care). Feed pre-killed prey, always, for best results. These snakes will happily eat from tongs. They're normally easy to feed.

Not sure I understand what you're asking, there at the end of your post? Please re-phrase.

It sounds like your male TP hesitated because he's shyer or likely because this fuzzy was a bit larger than he's used to. I'm glad they both ate for you-:gj:

Snakes catch on pretty fast that all live pink & fuzzy rats & mice (eyes still closed) are helpless & don't fight back- so they don't bother constricting them. But when you move them up to hopper mice, their eyes are open & they will bite your snake in self defense; you want your snakes accepting f/t before that happens for best results.

The store I got them from feeds live or Just unalived larger prey if needed.

Ok I will definitely try to get them switched to f/t mice.

Sorry I was asking about my larger TP. She ate the fuzzie with no problem and quickly. Would you recommend next feeding to get her two fuzzies or one hopper?

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Originally Posted by Mistery510

The store I got them from feeds live or Just unalived larger prey if needed.

Ok I will definitely try to get them switched to f/t mice.

Sorry I was asking about my larger TP. She ate the fuzzie with no problem and quickly. Would you recommend next feeding to get her two fuzzies or one hopper?

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The best reptile stores understand the health & safety issues with feeding live prey & "go the extra mile" to do the right thing for the sake of the animals...just saying. While most snakes may instinctively need to start off with a few live feedings just to get them going, after that, most can & should be switched to eating pre-killed prey.

We (the "community" of reputable reptile keepers) also find that this avoids the harshest criticism from animal rights groups that can sometimes cause trouble, such as laws against keeping exotics like snakes, to be passed. I know you're new to this but please do your part. It matters how we as a whole are perceived.

It's hard to advise you what size prey to feed a snake without seeing a good photo showing size comparisons, & estimates of length (especially by new owners) tends to be wrong. But if she's about 24" long though, she should be eating one hopper-sized mouse- but NOT live! She could easily eat 3 or 4 fuzzies, depending again on their actual size- some sources have small puny ones (aka "crews"- short for "crewcut" & refers to them just going from hairless pinky stage to having hair start to come in like a "crewcut"- they're smaller than "fuzzies") & not all stores differentiate. (FYI, I breed my own mice & used to sell them & supply others.) I'm guessing that your smaller, male TP would still be happier with crews or nothing larger than a fuzzy.

The easiest way to get her switched over to eating pre-killed (f/t) prey is the next time you feed her, offer her the usual live fuzzy- ONLY ONE- then follow that with one or more frozen-thawed fuzzies. I bet she takes them from your tongs just fine, after a good sniff. This is how snakes learn- and once they've taken a live "appetizer" they're pumped up & usually they're eager to take more. You could do the same thing with a live "crew" (small fuzzy) and a pre-killed hopper mouse- one that's not too big.

Just make sure the combination of items is not too big of a meal for the snake, and whenever you offer more than one item per feeding, make sure there's no more than an hour in between items- otherwise you risk a regurgitation of both items due to insufficient digestive enzymes. (The elapsed time may also make the snake not want to take more- it just depends on the snake's personality.)

Frozen prey items must be properly thawed in cool water until they feel soft & flexible thru-out (feel them manually). Many snakes dislike cold prey, & some (like BPs) absolutely refuse it, so it's best to briefly immerse it in warmish (not hot) water before blotting off on a paper towel to offer it. If you thaw directly in water, it also washes off some of the mouse scent, so as not to confuse the snake, I usually pinch-damage the nose of the rodent with my feeding tongs right before offering so as to release a bit more scent. You want the snake to be directed to the rodent's nose anyway.

Do not thaw in warm or hot water to speed things up. And don't thaw rodents by leaving them sit out on the counter- same reason. Some people do that with the meat they're eating, but remember that we don't eat raw meat- cooking kills the germs. Plus, our snakes are eating whole animals whose G.I. tract is FULL of bacteria just waiting for enough warmth (even just room temperature) to grow like mad. See the difference?

That causes spoilage, & these snakes do not care to eat carrion- they want fresh, near-live food. A couple of fuzzies won't take longer than 30 minutes to thaw in cold water. The larger the rodent, or larger the quantity of mice being thawed, can take longer, which is why you double check by feel before offering. Frozen rodents thaw on the outside first, & the inside may still be frozen- if your snake eats this, it can cause a regurgitation & that's very bad for them.

Got it!

I got weights today and the Female is 103 grams and the male is 46 grams.

Ill get them switched over to f/t, thanks for the tip on getting switched.

yep I have bowls and stuff ready Just for Mice to thaw them and such.

as of 10/20/2023 the weights are

Female 103 grams
Male 46 grams

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Originally Posted by Mistery510

as of 10/20/2023 the weights are

Female 103 grams
Male 46 grams

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I'd advise against weighing new snakes- it stresses them the same as "handling". ;) And it's not like there's a weight/growth chart to compare them to, lol. Leave them alone for best results.

Just some updated pictures. Since separating them they have both become more outgoing and relaxed snakes. The male gets a Fuzzy and the Female gets a Hopper.

I finally got some pictures of the male, you can really see the size difference in them.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/C0TXyfy.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/roPzxII.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/xenFgVk.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/E7l79Ev.jpg

Check out his body compared to her body.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/WeQWSc3.jpghttps://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/Ec5xgs5.jpg


NOM NOM!!!
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/k9oBmQ0.jpg

Beautiful snakes, & they look like they're doing great with you- :gj: Looks like someone's getting a bit cloudy too. ;)

Yep!!!! He's been hiding some lately. Cant wait!!!

Hey, it's been a while- how are your TPs doing? Would welcome an update...such beautiful snakes.