New juvenile ball python, feedback appreciated on set-up and care (pics)

Long-time pet lover, never owned a reptile. When my wife told me that our son wanted a snake for his 7th birthday I jumped to it before she could change her mind.

I’ve watched a few videos, read a few things, and saw ball pythons are best beginner snakes. Saw that there’s conflicting info on what type of habitat (DIY bin versus tank versus whatever), heating (under mat or over lighting), and even disagreements on whether a separate feeding tank is needed or not.

So I found a good local non-chain pet shop and figured I’d start with their recommendations. Guy who helped me seemed knowledgeable and has 9 snakes, breeds them, etc.

Here’s my set up:
20-gallon glass tank, mesh covering with lock
Overhead heating lamp with sensor inside
Juvenile enchi pastel ball python (estimate a couple months old)
Cypress mulch substrate
100 watt
I plan to feed live prey exclusively

Here’s my questions:

1. What’s the consensus on where to feed? The pet store repeated the recommendation I saw online of having a feeding bin so that the snake does not associate reaching into the tank as feeding time, leading to potential bites. The rebuttal I found online also makes sense: there’s no real evidence that this association happens and you’re not supposed to move snakes shortly after eating because of chance of regurgitation, so having a feeding tank is contradictory to this. This last part makes the most sense to me so I wanted to check what people here do? And if the answer is to have a feeding tank, what do I do after the feeding to avoid regurgitation? I fed him for the first time yesterday and tried to do a separate feeding container but we had just introduced him to the family and he was balled up tight and showed no interest or notice of the hopper even after several minutes. I ended up putting the container in the enclosure so we could try some privacy and set up a camera and it eventually unraveled and ate when it was alone.
2. It seemed almost universal online that people recommended the heating pad over the light for better regulation of heat, so I was a little surprised that he recommended the light. Based on the temperature that I usually leave my house with A/C (72F) they suggested I start with 100W and if it’s too hot can switch out for 50W. They also suggested a range of 85-89F and to try not to let it go above 90. Right now it's been around 80-88 on the hot side. Thoughts?
3. Handling: though I’ll be heavily involved in care for it, it’s a gift for my son and I want to balance keeping the snake healthy and him having a good experience with it. I saw it recommended to only handle them 1-2x a week. Is more harmful? And how long should it be at a time? Any tips on getting it acclimated/comfortable being held?
4. Biting: I know that it’s impossible to totally prevent bites but what are tips to avoid biting? Just worried my son will get spooked
5. I'm getting another hide today for the warm side.
6. Any other advice? I figure that ball pythons are thought to be good beginners for a reason and that none of the questions above are going to make or break the experience, but any help for optimal care would be appreciated!

Front pic
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...83-DEFA452.jpg

Pet store said they recommend two hopper mice per week for my size ball python. This is how big they are comparatively. He ate both yesterday. Good feeding regimen?

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...ent-photos.jpg

Set-up (first day I had him in closet to hide the surprise, now on dresser in kid's room)

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...IMG-1552-1.jpg
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...L/IMG-1549.jpg

7 years is VERY young for a pet snake, so I trust you'll be heavily involved, or this won't work.

1. Feed the snake IN their home where they live. Moving a hungry snake to another container may either get you bit (!) then or afterwards (since snakes stay pumped up in "feed mode" for anywhere from hours to days after eating. OR- a shy snake that is handled prior to feeding may totally REFUSE to eat at all- the only thing that picks up a snake in the wild is a PREDATOR about to eat them- & it takes time for pet snakes to feel safe with us. Feed where they live, in evening/night hours- low lighting, & be low-key about it for best results. Buy & use feeding tongs!

2. Everyone's home is different, as are snake accommodations- what works for some will not for others. Set up & test enclosure for at LEAST a week BEFORE any live snake moves in- it takes time for temps. to stabilize, & if you need other equipment modifications, you may need time to order or install it, & test further. Anything that produces heat should be controlled by thermostats for safety. Changing a cage around after you have a snake may to put them OFF eating due to stress.

3. No handling until the snake has eaten easily at least 3 times in a row at normal (weekly) intervals (not counting refusals due to being in shed- that's normal). Feeding is job #1 for survival.

And don't handle after they eat for a day, preferably 2 days, while they're digesting. Barfing up their meal can actually kill them- you really want to avoid that.
Snakes cannot cough- if they regurgitate their food, they can aspirate & choke to death.

4. Bites hurt, especially to younger children (with softer hands). Learn the snake's body language & understand they bite for several reasons: Self defense (fear!), or confusion when feeding (an honest mistake on their part- use feeding tongs & keep out of their way). Don't keep reaching into their space- they're living animals, not toys.

5. At least 2 hides are essential- also may need a lot more "cover" (privacy) besides hides.

6. Keep reading. Feeding live is okay to start with, but dangerous for your snake when the prey is old & large enough to fight back. (eyes open, either rats or mice) Rodents can kill snakes, especially if the snake isn't hungry- they will ignore the rodent even if it bites them! So NEVER leave live rodents in with your snake- not unless you want large vet bills or a dead snake.

Since you're using a glass tank- you'll need to cover most of the screen to minimize air-flow so as to retain humidity- get a humidity gauge too, one that's accurate. Also, for privacy, it's a good idea to cover the glass on the outside (back & each side) for privacy (can also add insulation for winter if needed) or use a towel over half the cage at least while snake is "settling in". Snakes aren't into "rooms with a view". Tank/enclosure should be in a quiet area- snakes get stressed by doors slamming etc (from vibrations) even though they hear very little- they feel the vibrations.

Understand that most snakes do not recognize us visually- they relate more to our scent & how we touch them. Don't take it personal if they act like they want to bite you thru the glass- it's your motion they're chasing, not actually you! But DO be aware of their mood- either hungry or fearful.

Ball pythons are often said to be great beginner snakes, since they're mostly mellow & docile, & remain a manageable size. That does NOT make them the easiest snakes to keep healthy, however- so again, do your homework to meet the conditions they require. And switch off live prey as soon as you can for best results. (BTW, only put one live hopper in at a time.)

And btw- :welcome: Good that you chose a snake that's well-started (feeding well). He's pretty too. Do keep a watch for snake mites- just in case- they can kill.

Wow! So much to say. I think my post may be even longer than Boger's. First, welcome to the forum. Joining this forum was the best thing you could possibly do for the health and welfare of your new snake. Visit often. Read every post, even the posts about reptiles you don't have. You'll be surprised how much you'll learn in a short time.

Second, that's a beautiful little critter. BP's are both docile and hardy which makes them great beginner snakes. You made a great choice for you and your son.

Third, your questions:

1. Feed in the enclosure for all the reasons Boger mentioned above.
2. The lamp's not good. It's too bright and it's going to suck the humidity from your enclosure. You're going to have to leave it on at night to provide heat, but doing so will disrupt your snake sleep cycle. Take it back to the reptile shop and get a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) or Deep Heat Projector (DHP). They provide heat without light. You're still going to have trouble keeping the humidity up, so get a hydrometer, cover the screen, and mist as necessary.
3. Handling stresses the snake, but they can learn to tolerate it. For the next three weeks while your snake is settling in, teach your son to appreciate the joy in observing your snake's behavior. Then, start with short, infrequent handling sessions and build up from there.
4. To avoid bites don't act like either predator or prey. Don't come at your snake quickly or from directly above. Come at it slowly from ground level. Don't surprise it. Let it observe your approach and smell you first (apply hand sanitizer first). This will keep it from confusing you with predator or prey.
5. Yep. You need another hide, two actually. The log hide you're using is not secure enough because it's open at both ends.

Finally, don't get overwhelmed. It can be a lot at first. Relax, take it one step at a time and you and your new snake will be fine.

We recommend this type of hide-box, btw- available from various brands, including this one from Reptile Basics for illustration: https://www.reptilebasics.com/medium-hide-box

As Homebody mentioned, the open-ended tree bark tunnels are nice "cage furniture" only, but no snake will feel secure in that- & if they don't feel secure (able to hide from predators), most stop eating. They need a minimum of at least 2 equal hides like this- they come in various sizes- so measure your snake when he's curled up & don't buy a much bigger hide- they prefer to feel "back pressure" like being in a cave, where predators cannot sneak up on them.

If the hides are a little too large (to "grow into") you can stuff some crumpled paper inside one end so they feel more snug. Our houses with big front doors, multiple doorways/windows, & high ceilings that look dramatic in magazines don't impress snakes one bit- they want the total opposite. :D

I agree with most of what’s already been said. Your snake should have 2 hides and I’d swap the heat lamp for a CHE or UTH. Feeding inside the enclosure is less stressful for the snake and the keeper. Feeding live is your choice but as Boger said it can become a danger to your snake with larger prey, it’s a pain when the snakes aren’t hungry and you have to figure out what to do with a live mouse or rat, and it’s a lot more expensive than feeding f/t. I don’t see any benefits to live feeding but to each their own.

Kudos for sharing the hobby with your son. I think snakes make great pets for young children as long as they have proper adult supervision. My son was 4 when he decided he wanted a pet lizard. We came out of the pet store with a snake instead, which I may have encouraged, and now after 9 years later we have 11 of them. Best wishes with your new critter!!

Thank you for all the suggestions and the warm welcome!

For the record, I definitely see the python as my responsibility. And I'm excited about having a reptile!

I tried to heed some of the advice here. I tried PetCo (the better store I got the pythons from is a little far and I'll be returning there later in the week for hoppers), HomeDepot, and Target and came out with the following changes/questions

1. Got two new hides. I was hoping PetCo near me had a better selection but, alas.... The water bowl on the tank's right actually may work well because it only has one opening and only the non-water side is hollow so it's pretty small inside. On the left I found in the hamster section. The opening (not shown) is pretty big but the rest would be a snug fit for Viper (officially named by my son).
2. Covered the back and sides. Home Depot didn't have foam core for insulation so I got foam for presentations from target and put a background on it.
3. Petco had a CHE bulb but it said 100W recommended for 40 gallons and 60W for 10-20. My current light is the ZooMed Nocturnal Infrared Heat Lamp, it's 100W and from what I've seen so far I think it is the right intensity for heat requirements. Is it 1:1, i.e., should I replace with 100W CHE or a 60W?
4. Was gong to pick up a humidity gauge but it wasn't digital and they didn't have digital and I read online they can be inaccurate. So, with cypress mulch, until I get a humidity digital read, about how often should I be misting?
5. I read online to cover the screen top with duct tape to keep the heat in better. Would you all recommend this is my case? If so, should I drop the wattage as with the changes (sides covered, top covered) the temperature may go up significantly? Also, could I use aluminum foil instead and tape it to the top?
6. Yay or nay on adding plants? Real or fake?

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...7/image1-4.jpg
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I use these to read temps and humidity at a glance, placed on opposite ends of the enclosure.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0842L4Q4R...roduct_details
Would also recommend getting a temperature gun as they're quite useful for getting pinpoint accurate readings.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lase...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

As for plants, I don't recommend live. Ball pythons are heavy-bodied snakes that tend to bulldoze through anything so trying to grow anything is likely to end poorly. But by all means get lots of fake foliage, all snakes appreciate cage clutter to conceal themselves with even when out of hides, especially when young.

I honestly feel that the 40 watt would be too low. The temps at the bottom of the tank where your little guy is most likely to hang out will still be cold.
Personally for BPs I go the UTH with a thermostat because they don't always feel comfortable basking and the belly heat will help them digest.
Some bulbs will have a graph or infopic with different wattages and heat estimates at different distances. 75 might be better in your case so as not to make TOO hot of a spot. Anything over 92 under the lamp is too hot. Right under the lamp and where the top of the branch is for example will most likely temp at 110 or higher with a temperature gun. This can be the case with a 75 or 100 watt. If the type of bulb your using is a desert style basking bulb that can also make it even hotter because the heat is concentrated more than a regular red bulb.

Personally another win on the UTH side is it keeps your son from moving the bulb and burning himself or something in the house. I've seen grown adults melt plastic tables because they forget how hot the metal will still be when the bulb is off. I've used the same bulbs to heat up frozen thawed rats and mice for meals as well because of the heat.

On the tips above about learning the snake's behavior. Make sure that you and your son never put fingers in front of the hide houses. Especially for young and shy snakes, that will be asking to be snapped at. Either a fear or food response. They're ambush predators by nature so they like when prey wiggles past them. You'll want to carefully lift the hides out of the way from the sides. If the snake seems scared or stressed and you need to pick them up, always reach behind and under with a scoop motion. Sometimes having a small snake hook or a paper plate to gently touch to the neck or hold over them will snap them out of that defensive striking posture to the easier to handle ball posture. As they get older they should get more used to the big things that reach from the sky.

When having some future handling time with his little noodle friend, remember to NEVER BOOP THE SNOOT. BPs are really head shy and that is one of the easiest ways to get snapped at. It's best to gently touch along the upper middle part of the snake. Some are a little shy about having the tail touched. Middle is a good place to be safe.
Also make sure that it's quiet time with the snake. Any flailing hand motions or the like can also agitate them. Sitting and calm is a good way to start. Also obviously keep them away from the face. Some do key in on you staring at them and may strike out of fear.

Personally, l feel like my snakes eating frozen thaw are less likely to be as jumpy during feeding time. I have two exceptions to this and they are large females who seem to have bottomless pits where a stomach should be. But I also agree that FT is safer long term. Sure it's cool for a little bit...but as the snake grows and the size of the rodents grow, you may need to be there with tongs to pull the rodent's face away from the snake while he's constricting. If he does get bit, a good cleanup and some antibiotic treatment should always happen.... and even then it can still become an abscess if you're not careful.

And on the matter of child safety:
remember to always keep some hand sanitizer nearby for after handling or immediately wash hands. Remember that snakes and feeder rodents can carry zoonotic diseases that children can be more susceptible to such as salmonella from both or ringworm or rat bite fever from the rodents.
Yes, they sound scary. No it's usually not that common (unless you're like me....). It's just a good practice to keep so you build good habits for later on as well.

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Originally Posted by MedicalAuthor

I tried to heed some of the advice here. I tried PetCo (the better store I got the pythons from is a little far and I'll be returning there later in the week for hoppers), HomeDepot, and Target and came out with the following changes/questions

1. Got two new hides. I was hoping PetCo near me had a better selection but, alas.... The water bowl on the tank's right actually may work well because it only has one opening and only the non-water side is hollow so it's pretty small inside. On the left I found in the hamster section. The opening (not shown) is pretty big but the rest would be a snug fit for Viper (officially named by my son).
2. Covered the back and sides. Home Depot didn't have foam core for insulation so I got foam for presentations from target and put a background on it.
3. Petco had a CHE bulb but it said 100W recommended for 40 gallons and 60W for 10-20. My current light is the ZooMed Nocturnal Infrared Heat Lamp, it's 100W and from what I've seen so far I think it is the right intensity for heat requirements. Is it 1:1, i.e., should I replace with 100W CHE or a 60W?
4. Was gong to pick up a humidity gauge but it wasn't digital and they didn't have digital and I read online they can be inaccurate. So, with cypress mulch, until I get a humidity digital read, about how often should I be misting?
5. I read online to cover the screen top with duct tape to keep the heat in better. Would you all recommend this is my case? If so, should I drop the wattage as with the changes (sides covered, top covered) the temperature may go up significantly? Also, could I use aluminum foil instead and tape it to the top?

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1. Your new hides should be fine.
2. Looks lovely while insulating your enclosure and making your bp feel more secure.
3. I defer to CHE users.
4. Try twice daily (morning and evening).
5. I'd place a piece of cardboard covered in heat tape on the cover opposite the side of your heat lamp. That'll make it easier to uncover it if you need to. If it works well, you can upgrade it to something that looks better like plexiglass or pvc sheet.

Unless things have changed in the last 5 or so years...
CHEs may require a different housing. If your dome has a solid back, it won't work. It will overheat and melt the wires/crack the bulb base.

As weird as it sounds, wire cage like fixtures are better because it allows the excess heat to release. Not really something I think a kid should have in the room.

Covering the screen top with foil is fine- & one of many options that will work- also is less "messy" than doing it all up in duck tape. ;)

I like to use foam-core poster boards for insulating tanks- it's easy to work with & adds both privacy & insulation- :gj:

The heat is the biggest thing to get figured out & adjusted- & would have been best done before the snake moved in- but hindsight is 20:20- you'll know for "next time".
Forgot to mention, these things :snake: are rather addicting! (Too late! :rofl:)

The forum's care guide is worth a read if you haven't already: https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...ius)-Caresheet.

Great! Viper was in his new cool-side hideout this morning. I'll put the aluminum on today. it sounds like, for now, I should stick with the UV redlight 'night' heater? I didn't quite catch the concern with the CHE but sounded serious.

I'll get monitors and mist daily. I think we're on the right track!

And I had read that thread before getting Viper but when I went into the pet store, I knew they were all experienced snake keepers and with all the conflicting info online I thought I would just let them guide me. I even asked in the moment 'hey, I heard glass tanks weren't ideal' and he said that's what he uses and I didn't have enough of the info confidently downloaded in my brain to disagree.

All that said, I think we'll make this enclosure work and when it's time to upgrade (usually what age should I be looking at a bigger enclosure, or is 20 gal good for life?) I'll get it set up the right way well before.

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Originally Posted by MedicalAuthor

Great! Viper was in his new cool-side hideout this morning. I'll put the aluminum on today. it sounds like, for now, I should stick with the UV redlight 'night' heater? I didn't quite catch the concern with the CHE but sounded serious.

I'll get monitors and mist daily. I think we're on the right track!

And I had read that thread before getting Viper but when I went into the pet store, I knew they were all experienced snake keepers and with all the conflicting info online I thought I would just let them guide me. I even asked in the moment 'hey, I heard glass tanks weren't ideal' and he said that's what he uses and I didn't have enough of the info confidently downloaded in my brain to disagree.

All that said, I think we'll make this enclosure work and when it's time to upgrade (usually what age should I be looking at a bigger enclosure, or is 20 gal good for life?) I'll get it set up the right way well before.

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No, a 20 gal. is definitely not "good for life"- BPs average about 4' as adults- & some (esp. females) get quite a bit bigger. If you stuck with glass tanks, a 40-gal. breeder tank would be more the adult BP size. Most here prefer plastic enclosures, but you can make it work either way.

Best to do research before going into pet stores- they're often incorrect- not always, but remember they're trying to make a sale, so if nothing else, they usually make everything sound easier than it really is. Be skeptical & do your own research. Some pet store employees are wonderful, many just mean well but don't have their own experience, & most just say what they're supposed to say regardless. ;) Even among very experienced snake-keepers (including here)- understand that we all don't agree anyway- at some point, the choices are yours to make & live with. But we'll be happy to help by discussing options, including the pros & cons.

Having trouble regulating temperature.

Right now I think I'm going to keep the Nocturnal Infrared Heat Lamp because that comment earlier on the CHE scared me, haha,

I covered the sides and the back and put foil over about 75% of the top. Today the temperature got up to 96 degrees from the sensor, which as you can see from the pics is halfway up the tank right under the lamp. I ordered the more accurate monitors suggested here for both sides, should get here tomorrow.

I took the foil off and misted and temp immediately went down to low 80s.

I wonder if the tank is now insulated TOO much? I'm thinking I'll try to reduce the percentage of the top covered by foil (i.e., peel it back) and see how the temperature does. Just now, reducing it to about 60% covered, the temperature from the probe is hovering around 93.

I know there's always a gradient as the glass is warmer to the touch on the hot side than the cool side.

Viper has been hanging out in the hide on the cool side since Sunday. Ordered a more traditional hide to put on the warm side, should also get here tomorrow.

As you know, 96* is too hot, but you really need to be measuring the FLOOR where the snake is- & whatever he's touching. All this trial & error is not good for the snake- it should be done with an unoccupied enclosure, well ahead of time. The foil on top is to keep in the humidity, not the heat so much- as foil conducts heat. Suggest you keep temp. below 90*- even 88* would be safer. Excessive heat can injure* or even kill snakes if it continues. (*can cause neurological damage.) Temperatures are the hardest thing to get right- while we can offer suggestions, every set-up is a little different (including the background temperatures in your room/home). What is the cool side temp. where the snake has preferred to be? For safety, there has to be a cool side.

Peeling back the foil has seemed to really help. Moved the probe to the bottom (again, twin accurate temp/humidity monitors on their way) and on the hot side it's 92 and the cool side it's 79.

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Originally Posted by MedicalAuthor

Peeling back the foil has seemed to really help. Moved the probe to the bottom (again, twin accurate temp/humidity monitors on their way) and on the hot side it's 92 and the cool side it's 79.

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I'd lower that just a bit still- stay under 90*.

I know it's been a lot of trial and error so far. Once things are dialed in correctly it really will be easier just doing routine temp checks and all.

You're doing great. It's awesome to see someone being so proactive to wanting to make sure the animal is well taken care of. It's a great gift and learning experience to your son as well. I used to work retail pet shop so I've seen a lot of parents just do the half-hearted "it says for snakes." And just buy the cheapest starter kit or an animal that just is not appropriate in any way regardless of what I said.
You'll be teaching your son so much more with this by showing that care for other animals matters and they aren't a disposable thing

Thanks so much! I appreciate everyone's insight, patience, and help.

Made some changes. Went and got a lower wattage bulb, 60W, and also a moonlight one so it's not as disruptive to Viper. With the lower wattage I feel I can cover more of the top with the foil and it not get too hot at the height of the day. I also switched out the green hide for one of the recommended ones from before. I've noticed that Viper has been in the cool side hide for the last few days so if he doesn't move to the new hide on the warm side I may just get that same hide again to make them identical on both sides.

I also added a second water bowl under the heat lamp to help with the humidity. *Seems* to be working so far.

Also got heat and humidity monitors.

Looking at the temperatures this morning, which represents that coldest part of the day, looks like the minimum with the current set up is 83 warm side, 75 cold side. Humidity Will monitor today and see what the highest is as temperature rises mid-day to see what it maxes out to. Right now (11am) it's 84/76 (pic below). Humidity currently 54 warm side, 68 cool side.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...h/image0-7.jpg

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Originally Posted by MedicalAuthor

Long-time pet lover, never owned a reptile. When my wife told me that our son wanted a snake for his 7th birthday I jumped to it before she could change her mind.

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Almost same experience in my house. My husband and my 2 sons would catch snakes in the backyard and "observe" them. I got tired of yelling at them for it - we have water moccasins, ya know - so then this reptile shop opened in town and I said, well, those snakes are at least clean and harmless, and next thing I know we got one snake for the boys to share. Not too long after, we ended up having 4 pet snakes, one of which I won from a contest in this forum! My boys were 7 and 5 years old then. I told them if they don't take care of the snakes they WILL die because I'm not doing it. I set them all up in their habitats and those 2 boys did the rest.

My boys are now turning 21 and 19 years old, we had our first snake die a few years ago and the other 3 are still happily my boys' pets including the one I won from the contest. We have another snake that is the son of our first snake (my boys once did a science project in elementary school by breeding their snakes) - so we still have 4 snakes today. My boys are taking off for college in a few months and they're going to be taking these pets with them when they leave. I'm gonna miss these buggers, hah hah.

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I’ve watched a few videos, read a few things, and saw ball pythons are best beginner snakes. Saw that there’s conflicting info on what type of habitat (DIY bin versus tank versus whatever), heating (under mat or over lighting), and even disagreements on whether a separate feeding tank is needed or not.

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They're not best beginner snakes, imho. The corn snake is better than the ball python for beginners. We've had our bps stop eating for almost a year when my boys were very little for no apparent reason and it stressed my boys out so much. We have a really good reptile vet and all he can say is - there's nothing wrong with the snake, just wait it out... not good for very young kids to deal with but they all survived. Anyway, one little thing off in their environment could cause these guys to stop eating for months!

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So I found a good local non-chain pet shop and figured I’d start with their recommendations. Guy who helped me seemed knowledgeable and has 9 snakes, breeds them, etc.

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You'll quickly find out that even among very experienced reptile enthusiasts, consensus can often be hard to find. Like most things, you take everybody's advice into consideration and then when you get your own feel for things, you do you.

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Here’s my set up:
20-gallon glass tank, mesh covering with lock
Overhead heating lamp with sensor inside
Juvenile enchi pastel ball python (estimate a couple months old)
Cypress mulch substrate
100 watt
I plan to feed live prey exclusively

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Good start.
I'd ditch the heating lamp for a non-light-producing heat lamp then add a day light source if the set-up is not in a sunny part of the house.

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Here’s my questions:

1. What’s the consensus on where to feed? The pet store repeated the recommendation I saw online of having a feeding bin so that the snake does not associate reaching into the tank as feeding time, leading to potential bites. The rebuttal I found online also makes sense: there’s no real evidence that this association happens and you’re not supposed to move snakes shortly after eating because of chance of regurgitation, so having a feeding tank is contradictory to this. This last part makes the most sense to me so I wanted to check what people here do? And if the answer is to have a feeding tank, what do I do after the feeding to avoid regurgitation? I fed him for the first time yesterday and tried to do a separate feeding container but we had just introduced him to the family and he was balled up tight and showed no interest or notice of the hopper even after several minutes. I ended up putting the container in the enclosure so we could try some privacy and set up a camera and it eventually unraveled and ate when it was alone.

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"Associate reaching into the tank as feeding time" is silly. This is for people who never do anything with their snakes besides open the tank to feed. Remember - feeding is a once every 5-7 days affair. You'll be opening that enclosure a lot more times for other reasons than feeding.
Most people feed in the enclosure because that's where the snake is comfortable and would provide the least disturbance.
That said, we do not feed in the enclosure because we have a bio-active setup and feed live prey. That rat will have so many places to hide that it will take the snake a while to get to him. We do not leave live prey unattended with the snake so it is much better for us to use a feeding bin. You'll know when to put the snake back because he will start cruising the bin.

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1. It seemed almost universal online that people recommended the heating pad over the light for better regulation of heat, so I was a little surprised that he recommended the light. Based on the temperature that I usually leave my house with A/C (72F) they suggested I start with 100W and if it’s too hot can switch out for 50W. They also suggested a range of 85-89F and to try not to let it go above 90. Right now it's been around 80-88 on the hot side. Thoughts?

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Yes, the heating pad is the most common. It spreads out the heat evenly on the substrate and not waste energy heating the air. We don't use a heating pad because of the bioactive set-up. We use ceramic heat emitters. I live in a humid region of the US so it's easy to maintain humidity even with the humidity-sucking heat emitter.

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1. Handling: though I’ll be heavily involved in care for it, it’s a gift for my son and I want to balance keeping the snake healthy and him having a good experience with it. I saw it recommended to only handle them 1-2x a week. Is more harmful? And how long should it be at a time? Any tips on getting it acclimated/comfortable being held?

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So, when they're new to your home, you want to leave them alone as much as possible until they're consistently eating and settled in their habitat. After that, your snake will learn to tolerate your son's constant presence. Just remember that, unlike dogs, any handling of the snake is not for the snake's benefit but your own.

That said, my boys are constantly taking those snakes out. They wear them like jewelry around their arms or waist while playing video games or doing homework, they wage Halo wars on their lego table with toy soldiers and ships and have snake hides as castles with the flags and snakes as their kings... they take them to school (Montessori), teach boy scout reptile and amphibian merit badge classes with them, pass them around during dinner parties at the house, etc. etc. These snakes are sooo used to getting handled after all these years they're very tolerant to being handled. Even as young adults, my kids are still constantly messing with these snakes - just taking them out and having them wrapped around them while doing stuff, it's just become a habit, I think.

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1. Biting: I know that it’s impossible to totally prevent bites but what are tips to avoid biting? Just worried my son will get spooked

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The reason bps became a popular pet because they are normally very hesitant to bite. They would ball up before they'll bite. That said, there are limits to a bp's tolerance and they will bite when they feel threatened. Your son will have to be taught that he WILL get bit eventually but that it's going to be okay. So, it takes a while to learn to "read" the snake's mood. But eventually, you can just look at the snake and know to leave them alone. Handling a snake that is stressed is one of the best ways to get bit. Snakes usually get stressed in new environments, changes to its habitat, habitat failures (especially temperature), when it's shedding, when it's sick, when there's too much stimulation (like noise, movement, smells, smoke, etc.), when it is mishandled - we had a trick-or-treater grab the snake's head once while the snake was hanging over my son's shoulders, she got bit hard! Our snakes are very tolerant with many people but even then, they are in a heightened stress level in that situation and non-ideal handling will be cause for them to bite in those situations even as they usually won't in a quieter time.

Sometimes, you have to pick up the snake in stress - like moving him out of the habitat to fix failures, taking a sick snake to a vet, etc. My sons have a little foam thingee that they bop the snake's head with to make them ball up before they pick a stressed snake up.

Other than that, most bites are accidental - your hand gets mistaken for food (they have very poor eyesight). This usually happens when feeding dead rats. You don't usually hold live prey for too long - you toss it in the bin in a quickness. But it's still good to always use tongs and the like.

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1. I'm getting another hide today for the warm side.

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Especially since you have a glass enclosure, it is best to fill up the space with stuff so the snake will not feel so exposed. This can be achieved through driftwood, silk greenery, hides, etc. Then the snake doesn't just have 2 spaces they can thermoregulate in. They can move all over the tank to find the best temp conditions and hide there. A 20-gallon is bare minimum imho for a male bp. Our bp's are in 30-gallon breeder size set-up. One of them is female who is bigger than all the other 3 so I was thinking of getting her a bigger set-up but then it won't stack in the cabinet with the others, so we left her in the 30 gallon. She's doing fine.

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1. Any other advice? I figure that ball pythons are thought to be good beginners for a reason and that none of the questions above are going to make or break the experience, but any help for optimal care would be appreciated!

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There will come a time when your snake will not eat. Don't panic. They can go a long time without eating. The longest we've been through is 10 months. Snake only lost a few ounces of weight.

Have a good reptile vet lined up. They're mostly not good.
We used to do yearly check-ups. It's been almost a decade since we've been to the vet last but it is good to know where to go when things go bad.

Think about what you will do on vacations. All our set-up is automagic (heat regulators, timers). We've left the snakes alone for a few weeks several times. But, you still have to have somebody come check them out because the water will get dirty or dry and the plants (bio-active) will have to be misted, and the automagic will have to be checked to make sure they're still working right. It's not as easy to find somebody to check on the snakes - most people either don't know what to do or don't want to do it even as they're just fine checking on the dog. We've never had anybody else feed the snakes. When we're on vacation, the snakes don't get fed, so we can't be away for too long.

You will have family/friends that will not visit you anymore because you have snakes. It's okay. You can visit them instead.

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Pet store said they recommend two hopper mice per week for my size ball python. This is how big they are comparatively. He ate both yesterday. Good feeding regimen?

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When the snakes were little, they get fed every 5 days, if they refuse a feed, we try again in 2 days. When they got to be 6 months old or so, they got fed weekly. If they don't eat within 15 minutes, we try again next week.

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Set-up (first day I had him in closet to hide the surprise, now on dresser in kid's room)

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Hope this helps. Remember, we're just random people on the internet. Enjoy the experience with your son!

Monitored temperature range today. Looks like in a given 24 hours it will be:

Warm side: 80-90 degrees
Cool side: 75-84 degrees.
Humidity: ~50

Viper's still be in the hide it seems 24/7, though I hope he's moving around some at night.

As a little update, Viper is doing well. Got the temp and the humidity pretty under control. A few things I've noticed:

1. He's slow to eat, or maybe I have to adjust my expectations. Today I put in a rat pup, put my phone's camera on top of the enclosure and cast to the living room TV so we could give him privacy, and it still took about 2 hours before Viper came out of his hide and then after 30 minutes of slow stalking he ate the pup.
2. Random, but the pup was super cute and shy and this was the first time I felt bad about the kill but it was a feeder rat and would have been killed anyway
3. I find Viper almost exclusively resides in the hide on the cool side. It's a water bowl + a hide combo that I got from petco that he seems to like. I got a more traditional hide for the warm side about two weeks ago (suggested in this thread) that I haven't seen yet. Last night, however, I got proof that he does move around because there was fresh poop this morning in the water bowl on the warm side.
4. Handling. I handled him yesterday before feeding today and he was in a tight ball. How persistent can I be in uncurling him while handling? Do they ever strike while holding? Can I turn him upside down (head to the air) or will that aggravate? I got him about halfway unraveled yesterday but then didn't go further.

Also, anatess, thank you for your thorough reply! Didn't say it earlier, but really appreciate it, along with all the others!

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...2/IMG-2091.jpg
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...9/IMG-2092.jpg

Not a professional, but:

In regards to handling, I wouldn't uncurl him at all. One, make sure you're not handling for a couple days after feeding - 72 hours is frequently touted - though you probably already know that, and then just let him be a ball. That's a defensive reaction, and means that he's scared. Forcing him out of it is likely to just scare him more. Just go read or watch television, let him be a ball in your hand or on your lap, and wait for him to get comfortable enough to unwrap himself when he's ready to be curious. Slow movements so he doesn't get startled, and not restraining his head or neck, since ball pythons are very protective of their heads. They seem to consider them particularly important to have!

Okay, good to know! I definitely read/heard about no handling a few days after eating, which is why I tried to handle the day before feeding. I'll try the just chilling next time.

I totally agree with Argentum's post- I'd NEVER forcibly uncurl a snake to "handle" him- he's afraid & that's never going to help.

MY snakes don't strike while I'm handling them, but yours very well might. Especially if you keep doing stuff like forcibly uncurling them. ;) Royal pythons are called "ball pythons" because hiding their heads in fear & turning their body into a ball is sort of their "trademark" defense. Some snakes may be slower to eat if they're recently been handled AT ALL, but especially with such methods. You'll do much better with snakes with more empathy.

So, one of the "iconic" pictures of my son's childhood is of him sitting on the couch with the snake's head crawling out of his shirt sleeve right under his armpit and his face was beaming with such delight.

This was the 2nd pet snake we got and we got him as a baby. He was like your snake, balled up tight when handling. My son would just put the balled up snake on his belly under his shirt, dark and warm like they want it. And that day, the snake decided to crawl out of his shirt.

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Originally Posted by anatess

So, one of the "iconic" pictures of my son's childhood is of him sitting on the couch with the snake's head crawling out of his shirt sleeve right under his armpit and his face was beaming with such delight.

This was the 2nd pet snake we got and we got him as a baby. He was like your snake, balled up tight when handling. My son would just put the balled up snake on his belly under his shirt, dark and warm like they want it. And that day, the snake decided to crawl out of his shirt.

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:sweeet: Just look how BIG we are compared to them- we're scary, until they learn to feel safe with us. The only thing in nature that picks up a snake is a predator about to eat them, so that's what they think we are...until they learn. Starting off being patiently cuddled by us, as your son did- they're warm & hiding under something (learning our touch & scent ;) ) so by the time they come out, they're not so afraid of us (our size & appearance). I've done the same thing, but I'm way too ticklish to let them crawl under my arms. You & your son have good instincts. :snake:

Got it. I've been searching for advice on things and googled this and something said 'gentle but persistent' in trying to unravel. That's what I tried but stopped at the point I got to in the picture cus didn't feel right.

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

:sweeet: Just look how BIG we are compared to them- we're scary, until they learn to feel safe with us. The only thing in nature that picks up a snake is a predator about to eat them, so that's what they think we are...until they learn. Starting off being patiently cuddled by us, as your son did- they're warm & hiding under something (learning our touch & scent ;) ) so by the time they come out, they're not so afraid of us (our size & appearance). I've done the same thing, but I'm way too ticklish to let them crawl under my arms. You & your son have good instincts. :snake:

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I found that pic! This was taken back in 2008!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...natess07/g.jpg

Ha, your son is so adorable! And man, I'd have been doubled over...:rofl: What a great photo!

Now, the snakes are just so used to being handled by both my boys all the time that they're just cool hanging out all the time, chillin like villains.


https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...6e5cc70c1.jpeg