HVAC / Exo Terra / CHE 150 watt question

Hi everyone! New BP owner here. Just want to make sure this is okay— expert BP owners told me it was, but I’m nervous and want a second opinion.
Is it fine that I have my 150 Watt CHE resting directly on top of my 40 gallon Exo Terra’s top since it’s not all mesh and has cross-beams that are plastic but I covered them in like 5 layers of HVAC? The border of the Fluker’s dome rests on the plastic beams (but there are layers of HVAC in between)
Pictures attached. Thanks.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...88b88b5475.jpg


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Another pic for a diff angle


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Last pic for bird’s eye view


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I really don't care much for the way Exo Terra does their lids, but that's another story. As far as having issues I had a 100 watt CHE on my Zilla 40, sitting close but not on the plastic edge of the lid. I had my BP in there for about a year before his PVC enclosure came and while it didn't melt the plastic it did warp it a little. I didn't have any kind of HVAC tape on it but I also didn't have the CHE sitting directly on the plastic like you do. Honestly I think only time will tell. Those CHEs get super hot and can definitely warp and melt plastic. Given that you wrapped that brace you might not have any issues, then again you might. I would keep an eye on it if you don't want to make any alterations, but if it were me I think I might see about getting something similar to the below lamp stand just to be safe.

https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-reptil...iABEgJNAvD_BwE

I agree with Hugsplox's post above- your safety can (should-!) be improved by adding a little distance between that which gets HOT & that which can melt. ;)

Is that not a lamp stand behind the tank? Use it. That's how I ran my CHEs when I did. The lamp stand makes things much safer and easier.

I also hope you have a tstat or dimmer. I only used 100w CHEs that were cut back on power. That was in my apartment that I kept 68 degrees. I can't imagine you needing a 150..... Or having it at full power on top of the cage like that.

I could be wrong...so correct me if I am!

I thought you shouldn't even use a CHE in a regular dome and had to run the wire cage type because it can really heat up the inside of the dome and melt the components. Or is that only a concern with the larger sized CHE bulbs?

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Originally Posted by Armiyana

I could be wrong...so correct me if I am!

I thought you shouldn't even use a CHE in a regular dome and had to run the wire cage type because it can really heat up the inside of the dome and melt the components. Or is that only a concern with the larger sized CHE bulbs?

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If you use a dome with a CHE, it MUST be the kind rated for that high heat output- and it WILL have a ceramic fixture inside to hold the bulb, NEVER a plastic one that the bulb screws into. The plastic ones will melt.

For safety, it also helps to use a large dome- not the small ones, & even the medium size ones might be an issue. Safety first, please everyone.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Armiyana

I could be wrong...so correct me if I am!

I thought you shouldn't even use a CHE in a regular dome and had to run the wire cage type because it can really heat up the inside of the dome and melt the components. Or is that only a concern with the larger sized CHE bulbs?

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You are correct in part. The dome must have the holes near the base to be used with a CHE. That said I never trusted it and only used the wire version.

Using a wire fixture and lamp stands I still have the only CHEs I've ever bought and they ran for a couple years straight before I got a house and upgraded my keeping. They still work.

Thanks so much for everyone’s input - for reference, I had a lamp stand, but it wasn’t getting nearly hot enough inside with the distance between. I also was losing a lot of humidity.

I also had a 100 Watt before this, but it wasn’t getting hot enough inside either.

Because of these reasons, I’d much rather change the whole lid to a mesh top instead of put the lamp stand back if necessary, but then I’d need to find one that will fit since this 40 gallon exo terra has a bit of an odd length (~35x18). It also already has the 6 lock latches on top, so I’d need some sort of clamps to add too if I replace the lid.

All in all, a hassle, which is why I was hoping that it’d be fine to leave the perimeter of the dome on the plastic borders since I covered it with HVAC tape. It’s not the biggest deal if the plastic warps a little in time, but I definitely don’t want melting plastic to put carcinogens into the air....


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

If you use a dome with a CHE, it MUST be the kind rated for that high heat output- and it WILL have a ceramic fixture inside to hold the bulb, NEVER a plastic one that the bulb screws into. The plastic ones will melt.
For safety, it also helps to use a large dome- not the small ones, & even the medium size ones might be an issue. Safety first, please everyone.

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Originally Posted by KMG

You are correct in part. The dome must have the holes near the base to be used with a CHE. That said I never trusted it and only used the wire version.

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I mostly remember it being an issue with the smaller domes, even with the ceramic fixture. But that was when I worked retail so who knows what CHE they dropped in there. :rolleye2:
It probably was the older style though without the hole in the base. I remember them as having that solid sleek look.

I haven't used bulbs myself because I have nocturnals who love belly heat and nosey cats who love to knock things off cagetops. lol.
Good to know for the future!

I don't use Exos for snakes and haven't used CHEs in years, but: would it be prudent to switch to a RHP mounted inside the Exo? A far more permanent and effective fix for the top (cut piece of tempered glass and a screen insert to replace the stock lid, perhaps, or at least tempered glass inserts to sit on the stock screen top) could be done, and RHPs are far safer than CHEs. I've not done such a mod with a heating source involved, though.

If the CHE continues to be used, I'd strongly recommend a Herpstat to run it, set to sound alarm and cut power if the probe detects anything near ambient temps (signaling that the CHE has been knocked off the Exo).

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Originally Posted by Cait18

I had a lamp stand, but it wasn’t getting nearly hot enough inside with the distance between. I also was losing a lot of humidity.

I also had a 100 Watt before this, but it wasn’t getting hot enough inside either.

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I find that very hard to believe. My CHEs were several inches above the mesh and gave me the proper hot spot for my Ball, and a good ambient temp. That was turned down a bit with a dimmer too.

What are you taking temperatures with?

An unregulated 150w CHE sitting on the top should be making one heck of a hot spot directly under it.....unless this is a very tall tank.

As for the humidity that is what they do. All I did to combat it was keep moist moss in my hides making them humid hides.

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Originally Posted by Armiyana

[/COLOR]I mostly remember it being an issue with the smaller domes, even with the ceramic fixture. But that was when I worked retail so who knows what CHE they dropped in there. :rolleye2:
It probably was the older style though without the hole in the base. I remember them as having that solid sleek look.

I haven't used bulbs myself because I have nocturnals who love belly heat and nosey cats who love to knock things off cagetops. lol.
Good to know for the future!

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From my understanding the issue was the CHE creates so much heat that it needed an escape route. The dome without the holes held the heat it and cooked the CHE and fixture base.

I can not say for sure that is true but can say that using the wire fixtures designed for them I never had one die.

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Originally Posted by Malum Argenteum

I don't use Exos for snakes and haven't used CHEs in years, but: would it be prudent to switch to a RHP mounted inside the Exo?.

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If op goes the changing sources route, Exos can be great for UTH pads too because they have the raised bottom. Don't need to worry about the UTH airflow and won't pinch the thermostat probe wire.
I used an old exo for my oldest BP for a couple of years.

I originally had an UTH mat, but it wasn’t coming close to warming up inside the tank because it wasnt’ getting enough heat through the glass and substrate. As to someone else’s question, the tank is 18” tall. I have the CHE on a thermostat and i have two thermometers inside and a temperature gun that I use often to get temps, so I know what temps it was creating before with the lamp stand and it was getting to low 80s max on the hot side.
I have attached another photo for reference from POV from the inside of the tank to see - maybe this pic will help.
Thanks again every one - appreciate all the tips and insight since I am a new BP owner just trying to sort out the setup.
I’d love to keep it now how it is as long as it’s safe, since I already spent a lot of time and trial and error with different setups.

Thanks!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...44fd1896f4.jpg


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by KMG

From my understanding the issue was the CHE creates so much heat that it needed an escape route. The dome without the holes held the heat it and cooked the CHE and fixture base.

I can not say for sure that is true but can say that using the wire fixtures designed for them I never had one die.

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I'm glad you mentioned they make wire fixtures for CHEs- I don't use CHEs anyway, but it sounds like a good (safer) idea for such high wattage. I've never seen any dome fixtures without vent holes, but surely they have their limits so as not to be frying the wires.

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

I'm glad you mentioned they make wire fixtures for CHEs- I don't use CHEs anyway, but it sounds like a good (safer) idea for such high wattage. I've never seen any dome fixtures without vent holes, but surely they have their limits so as not to be frying the wires.

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I think most domes from pet stores will have the holes but if you buy some heat lamps from a hardware store they probably won't.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cait18

I originally had an UTH mat, but it wasn’t coming close to warming up inside the tank because it wasnt’ getting enough heat through the glass and substrate. As to someone else’s question, the tank is 18” tall. I have the CHE on a thermostat and i have two thermometers inside and a temperature gun that I use often to get temps, so I know what temps it was creating before with the lamp stand and it was getting to low 80s max on the hot side.
I have attached another photo for reference from POV from the inside of the tank to see - maybe this pic will help.
Thanks again every one - appreciate all the tips and insight since I am a new BP owner just trying to sort out the setup.
I’d love to keep it now how it is as long as it’s safe, since I already spent a lot of time and trial and error with different setups.

Thanks!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...44fd1896f4.jpg


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An UTH is not meant to warm the tank. They are for the hotspot and do very little to heat the rest of the cage.....as you found out.

How long have you been using the CHE like this to test it? Is the snake it there? A CHE takes a good while to level out and show you what it will really gives you.

An issue when you have to move the heat fixture from the screen lid is you take the heat away from the cage whenever you enter it by removing the lid. This was a big reason I used the stands. It let me leave the CHE in place so the heat is still pumping into the tank instead of cooling down. This made my temp checks more accurate by reducing cooling to the hotspot I was creating.

Also not having to move the hot fixture is much safer and keeps a person from the dangers of placing the heated CHE to something that can melt and catch fire. A CHE gets BLAZING HOT.

What I did to help my tank in my cold apartment was cover the back and sides with thick art paper. This kept more heat it and raised my temps by itself. Then I also made a cardboard cutout for the screen section of the lid. I left a window for the heat from the CHE to pass through and covered it with foil. This kept even more heat it and helped keep some humidity.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KMG

I think most domes from pet stores will have the holes but if you buy some heat lamps from a hardware store they probably won't.

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I haven't seen them in a hardware store (never looked for them there) but the ones I've seen in feed stores definitely do have holes- ppl use them to warm chicks etc.

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

I haven't seen them in a hardware store (never looked for them there) but the ones I've seen in feed stores definitely do have holes- ppl use them to warm chicks etc.

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The few times I have needed a heat lamp around the house I just used mine I had for my snakes I don't use anymore. Growing up we used them for our chickens and rabbits. Those from the feed stores are probably made for animals but I know there are others that can be found at hardware stores that don't have the holes. Usually in the painting area or bulb/light area. People may try to save money and buy them as they are usually really cheap and not know they are missing the holes.

The ones you get at the pets stores are usually a bit better because the dome is not as soft so they do not bend as easy as those from the hardware store. But then maybe most have holes now. It has been a long time since I needed to buy one.....having so many. I have even given some away to new keepers I was helping out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KMG

The few times I have needed a heat lamp around the house I just used mine I had for my snakes I don't use anymore. Growing up we used them for our chickens and rabbits. Those from the feed stores are probably made for animals but I know there are others that can be found at hardware stores that don't have the holes. Usually in the painting area or bulb/light area. People may try to save money and buy them as they are usually really cheap and not know they are missing the holes.

The ones you get at the pets stores are usually a bit better because the dome is not as soft so they do not bend as easy as those from the hardware store. But then maybe most have holes now. It has been a long time since I needed to buy one.....having so many. I have even given some away to new keepers I was helping out.

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Now you've got me curious, & the next time I'm in a hardware store, I'll definitely look for them to see how they're made. Hopefully by now they're all making them with vent holes to let some heat escape.

Hey! I should have specified, sorry, but the tank I has opens in the front as a double-door setup, so I actually don’t ever need to open the lid from the top. Thank you for the tips though about backing the walls with art paper or something similar to increase heat within.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cait18

Hey! I should have specified, sorry, but the tank I has opens in the front as a double-door setup, so I actually don’t ever need to open the lid from the top. Thank you for the tips though about backing the walls with art paper or something similar to increase heat within.


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Good. The less you move it the better.