BP tank set up + accessories

Maybe I’ve just missed it in my search but there used to be a thread that had a list of everything needed for a BP set up plus recommended brands. Did it go away or am I just an idiot? Umm, don’t answer that. Just wanting to get everything ordered so my son can spend Christmas Day setting up for his arrival on January 6. Tghamnks!!!

Well, first you have some decisions to make about what KIND of enclosure you'll be doing.

Then, if you look under forum > BP husbandry > either https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-With-Pictures!
or https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-With-Pictures!

You'll have to make your own list, depending on your choices. A digital temp. gun will come in very handy too, as will some frozen mousicles/or ratsicles, & feeding tongs.

Best results- set up the enclosure & run with heat on for a WEEK, well BEFORE any live animal comes home with you- to verify temps. in the exact placement in home to verify that your heat is adequate (nothing else is needed) & that the t-stat works accurately.

I'd also recommend that if you buy some nice substrate, don't put it in yet- use white paper towels for the first month+ until you're positive that no mites came home with the snake. ;)

(Instead, use a third hide- one cool side, one warm side, and the third one- a "humid hide" with moss or similar material to provide good humidity otherwise found in the substrate.)

Well first let me ask how big is this snake going to be? As far as everything else it’s pretty straight forward, when I had tanks and even still in my tubs I use the black reptile basics hides. If you haven’t already decided I recommend going with cocoblox or any other type of coco for the substrate. Zoomed makes good heat pads along with their own thermostat that they sell separately. That’s pretty much it besides a water bowl of course and as Boger said a temp gun and tongs are a must


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2 places I know of that are great to buy accessories (like hides etc) from (in no particular order) are:

The Bean Farm https://beanfarm.com/

Reptile Basics https://www.reptilebasics.com/

I neglected to say that I already have a 10gl. Tank/aquarium and top.

My son also wants a baby so 3-6 months I’d say.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Well, first you have some decisions to make about what KIND of enclosure you'll be doing.

Then, if you look under forum > BP husbandry > either https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-With-Pictures!
or https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-With-Pictures!

You'll have to make your own list, depending on your choices. A digital temp. gun will come in very handy too, as will some frozen mousicles/or ratsicles, & feeding tongs.

Best results- set up the enclosure & run with heat on for a WEEK, well BEFORE any live animal comes home with you- to verify temps. in the exact placement in home to verify that your heat is adequate (nothing else is needed) & that the t-stat works accurately.

I'd also recommend that if you buy some nice substrate, don't put it in yet- use white paper towels for the first month+ until you're positive that no mites came home with the snake. ;)

(Instead, use a third hide- one cool side, one warm side, and the third one- a "humid hide" with moss or similar material to provide good humidity otherwise found in the substrate.)

---

I saw those threads yesterday but none of the pictures opened on the 20 gl thread. Also saw they were quite aged and wondered if there was something newer. They still give me a good starting point. Thanks

I know, sorry- the threads are old & pics not all there now- but it's a lot of work to update a site like this- so if you're motivated (& "techy") do lend a hand? ;)
In any event, I don't ever recall seeing such a "list" that you sought here.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bogertophis

I know, sorry- the threads are old & pics not all there now- but it's a lot of work to update a site like this- so if you're motivated (& "techy") do lend a hand? ;)
In any event, I don't ever recall seeing such a "list" that you sought here.

---

Ok, ok. I’ve been told that I’m a couple of tacos short of a combo plate, alright?


And if I was techy at all I’d love to help. Heck, I can’t even figure out why the site makes me log back in every 10 minutes or so.:bonk::bonk:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MR Snakes

Ok, ok. I’ve been told that I’m a couple of tacos short of a combo plate, alright?


And if I was techy at all I’d love to help. Heck, I can’t even figure out why the site makes me log back in every 10 minutes or so.:bonk::bonk:

---

Oh, no, lol...I wasn't implying anything of the sort! But if there was such a list, it might have been in a thread, rather than one of our "sticky" posts that are easier to reference. (Our regular search function leaves a lot to be desired, IMO.) Or possibly it was something you saw elsewhere?

As far as having to log back in, just be sure to check off where it says "keep me signed in" when you first log back in. If that's not working for you, let me know?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Oh, no, lol...I wasn't implying anything of the sort! But if there was such a list, it might have been in a thread, rather than one of our "sticky" posts that are easier to reference. (Our regular search function leaves a lot to be desired, IMO.) Or possibly it was something you saw elsewhere?

As far as having to log back in, just be sure to check off where it says "keep me signed in" when you first log back in. If that's not working for you, let me know?

---

Thanks. What ever happened to Zena? Is she still around?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MR Snakes

Thanks. What ever happened to Zena? Is she still around?

---

Zina10 (-assuming that's who you meant?) hasn't been around in quite a while- not since 02-10-2020 @ 09:54 PM- she had a lot going on, as I recall.

You've gotten a ton of help for the enclosure but there's something else that I wanted to point out. Are you having your snake shipped? Shipping is often delayed around the holidays and I think it would be best to wait for the safety of the snake. It's not fun having to wait until getting a snake but it's much better than having the snake possibly arrive dead due to a delay in shipping.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Erie_herps

You've gotten a ton of help for the enclosure but there's something else that I wanted to point out. Are you having your snake shipped? Shipping is often delayed around the holidays and I think it would be best to wait for the safety of the snake. It's not fun having to wait until getting a snake but it's much better than having the snake possibly arrive dead due to a delay in shipping.

---

My son wants to go to the show in Manchester on January 6 so most likely will be taping it to the hood of the truck (to keep an eye on it) so that it won’t strike anyone on the way home. Oh no, poor snake. It will be inside with my son, all snug.

But if we do ship it will be after the holidays so overnight to BFE shouldn’t be an issue. Thanks for the heads up!

So here is what I am going to order tomorrow unless someone has a better idea. Thanks

1) 10 gallon tank with requisite top (already have)

2) 1 Exo Terra medium water dish

3) Reptile Prime substrate

4) 2 Exo Terra small hides

5) 2, 4x7 under tank heating mats with thermostat

6) Temp Gun

7) Feeding tongs

8) Aluminum foil tape

9) Thermometer/Humidity digital thingymabobs

10) ???

Let me know if I’m missing anything. Thanks


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It seems like that's good as long as you're using a reliable thermostat (they can also be doubled up to reduce the risk of overheating). What's the tape for? Tape shouldn't be used on the inside of the tank as it can get stuck on the snake and cause problems. Also, do you think you're going to need 2 heat mats? Are you going to put one on each side to control both the warm and cool side temperatures? If so you're going to need two separate thermostats.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Erie_herps

It seems like that's good as long as you're using a reliable thermostat (they can also be doubled up to reduce the risk of overheating). What's the tape for? Tape shouldn't be used on the inside of the tank as it can get stuck on the snake and cause problems. Also, do you think you're going to need 2 heat mats? Are you going to put one on each side to control both the warm and cool side temperatures? If so you're going to need two separate thermostats.

---

I will add that you can get a thermostat that controls more than one device instead of two separate thermostats. That might be cheaper, but I am not sure.

Either way, get one(s) that can handle more than a small heat mat down the road so you can use it when you upgrade to the enclosure.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Erie_herps

It seems like that's good as long as you're using a reliable thermostat (they can also be doubled up to reduce the risk of overheating). What's the tape for? Tape shouldn't be used on the inside of the tank as it can get stuck on the snake and cause problems. Also, do you think you're going to need 2 heat mats? Are you going to put one on each side to control both the warm and cool side temperatures? If so you're going to need two separate thermostats.

---

What do you recommend for thermostats?

Tape is to attach the temperature probe to the bottom of the tank before applying the heat mats.

- - - Updated - - -

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dakski

I will add that you can get a thermostat that controls more than one device instead of two separate thermostats. That might be cheaper, but I am not sure.

Either way, get one(s) that can handle more than a small heat mat down the road so you can use it when you upgrade to the enclosure.

---

Any thermostat recommendations?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MR Snakes

What do you recommend for thermostats?

Tape is to attach the temperature probe to the bottom of the tank before applying the heat mats.

- - - Updated - - -



Any thermostat recommendations?

---

This does two devices for about $60 more than the 1 device version, making it much more cost effective. Very good and reliable brand, hence the cost.

https://spyderrobotics.com/index.php...products_id=26

The VE-300X2 is also a dual zone thermostat and highly regarded as well.

https://vivariumelectronics.com/Products.html

When you're attaching the probe to the bottom of the tank are you attaching it on the inside or outside? It should be on the outside so the snake can't move it, damage it, or get stuck on the tape. Depending what mats you get they might be sticky. The sticky ones I've just placed the probe to the tank and the mat holds them on. I'm not sure if the foil tape would damage the mat or not.
As far as thermostats the two recommended above work great. I use Inkbird thermostats (doubled up for the reptiles) because at the time I didn't have a whole lot of money to afford the expensive ones (and at the time I didn't see a difference between the two, now I do). I'm planning on upgrading my thermostats to a herpstat or VE model after I fix other things (like finishing a larger enclosure for my crested geckos).

Quick question with regards with the positioning of the thermostat probes. Where should they be put?

1) Under the substrate inside the acquarium?

2) Under the tank next to the heat pad?

3) Under the tank, taped to the outside of the pad?

4) Under the tank, between the tank and mat?

5) Under the tank, taped next to the pad?

Tank prep currently underway. Thanks

#4- outside, under the tank between the glass & the UTH-

And then you STILL need to let it run for preferably a few days to a week to stabilize with empty tank set up how it will be (substrate etc), AND double check temps INSIDE with an accurate temp. gun every place the snake may possibly touch to ensure no surface is too hot- (yes, even UNDER substrate, because they can or eventually WILL burrow or push it aside). You want to keep the warmest heat under 90*- some go with 88* or up to 91*, but in the 90's is risky for burn injuries for snakes- some, esp. BPs, don't seem to know when to move away.

You never want the probe INSIDE any enclosure, because it will get moved or damaged by the snake, which can lead to disaster. Just imagine what happens if the snake dumps the cold water bowl on it...for example. There goes the temperature control you're relying on.

LATEST UPDATE:

We have my son’s aquarium all set up and ready to go. The following are the thermostat and temp/humidity readings that have been constant for several days;

Hot side: 89-91 degrees, 51-71% humidity, 66 degrees inside air temp

Cool side: 78-81 degrees, 51-71% humidity, 66-67 degrees inside air temp

I have two sets of Thermometer/Humidity gauges and the readings are taken about an inch above the substrate.

My only concern is that the inside air temp might be a tad low. The room stays about 68-70 degrees. I could add an auxiliary heater to warm it up some. I have no light on the top and have found that placing a couple of wet sponges on the screen top does wonders for the humidity. And then the screen is covered by a towel.

So what am I missing? Thanks

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MR Snakes

LATEST UPDATE:

We have my son’s aquarium all set up and ready to go. The following are the thermostat and temp/humidity readings that have been constant for several days;

Hot side: 89-91 degrees, 51-71% humidity, 66 degrees inside air temp

Cool side: 78-81 degrees, 51-71% humidity, 66-67 degrees inside air temp

I have two sets of Thermometer/Humidity gauges and the readings are taken about an inch above the substrate.

My only concern is that the inside air temp might be a tad low. The room stays about 68-70 degrees. I could add an auxiliary heater to warm it up some. I have no light on the top and have found that placing a couple of wet sponges on the screen top does wonders for the humidity. And then the screen is covered by a towel.

So what am I missing? Thanks

---

Yeah that ambient air is quiet low. I’d recommend getting a heater or CHE to help with that, however the CHE will suck humidity out. Instead of having a towel over the top you could always over it with foil and leave about a 1/4 of the top uncovered. That helps with humidity as well as keeping the tank a tad bit warmer. Did you insulate the outside of the cage walls by any chance?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snow Balls

Yeah that ambient air is quiet low. I’d recommend getting a heater or CHE to help with that, however the CHE will suck humidity out. Instead of having a towel over the top you could always over it with foil and leave about a 1/4 of the top uncovered. That helps with humidity as well as keeping the tank a tad bit warmer. Did you insulate the outside of the cage walls by any chance?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

Thanks for your reply Snowman. I have not insulated the outside of the aquarium. Any ideas what I should use? Going to try the foil thing now.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MR Snakes

Thanks for your reply Snowman. I have not insulated the outside of the aquarium. Any ideas what I should use? Going to try the foil thing now.

---

Many things can be used to insulate a tank- some have used sheets of styro-foam, cut to fit & taped on- (not very attractive, admittedly, but effective- & it depends on how cold your house is).
You can use sheet cork (or cork tiles), corrugated cardboard, poster board (comes in white or black, with foam core, but easy to cut & deal with), thin plywood that's cut to fit, or even the foil-bubbles that ppl put on hot water heaters. For insulation to work, it's all about the air spaces that it traps. ;)

If you want this to look nicer, install scenery on the back & sides of the tank first, then your insulation won't even be seen. ;) You can insulate under the tank too, but leave breathing room for the UTH, if you're using one, & you can even insulate partway up the front, just leaving a large "picture window"- it's all up to you. Snakes enjoy privacy anyway, but for health & well-being, I personally like to know what's going on in all my tanks. You want to be able to see prey that's uneaten or feces that need a spot clean without opening it up to let the winter chill in.

Standard project board should be enough. Black preferably, just line the back and 2 sides. It doesn’t help a whole lot but it’s something and helps your BP feel secure as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What should the inside the tank air temp be?

Somewhere between 75-80 is a comfortable range for them


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK, foil installed. 66 degree reading so we’ll see where it goes up to in a few hours.

OK, tank temps brought up to 76. At the show now. Tomorrow to Snakesville!

Next question. Snake home. Currently hibernating. Air temps consistent from 75-80. Humidity 55-75%. Warm side at 89-91 and cool side at 78-82. All good.

How long should I wait to attempt feeding? Breeder said 3-4 days. Or should Ghost be left alone for a good week or so?

Ghost explored his tank extensively for the first hour and then has been in his hide for the last 48 hours (as far as I know). Seems happy as he sleeps with his head able to see out of his hide. Pics to follow.

BTW, Ghost is a Lemon Pastel Enchi Yellow Belly Het Pied, 50% Het Ghost……boy that’s a lot of genes! Bought from ML Exotics (Matt Lee).

I assume you meant "sleeping"? And snakes brumate, they don't hibernate. ;)

Anyway, as to how long to wait before offering food (& assuming you're not handling at all), I'd see how the snake acts in 4 days- if he seems to be looking for food (& by that I mean he's watching from the doorway of his hide- most likely- & in the evening hours- and NOT "cruising the enclosure"- you might go ahead & offer him food, but it won't hurt to wait a few more days either- the main thing is to wait until he's really ready to accept food. Failure is no fun. Your temps sound fine, btw- :gj:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bogertophis

I assume you meant "sleeping"? And snakes brumate, they don't hibernate. ;)

Anyway, as to how long to wait before offering food (& assuming you're not handling at all), I'd see how the snake acts in 4 days- if he seems to be looking for food (& by that I mean he's watching from the doorway of his hide- most likely- & in the evening hours- and NOT "cruising the enclosure"- you might go ahead & offer him food, but it won't hurt to wait a few more days either- the main thing is to wait until he's really ready to accept food. Failure is no fun. Your temps sound fine, btw- :gj:

---

Ok, ok. So he’s sleeping, napping or slacking off. Ha! He’s doing something that he has not asked permission for! So it’s very confusing when you get differing instructions from the breeder. He said 3-4 days then if he’s chill (which he is), then handle away. He also said to always feed in a separate place so he doesn’t associate reaching into his enclosure with a feeding response. Huh? It is nice as he is about 8 months old and already on frozen weanling rats so no ordeal in transferring over from live to not so live.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...95b3c9fd3e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c824ff242a.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...30d201b30e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You’re supposed to wait at least three times that they will eat for you until you handle. It’s an error on the side of caution approach, you don’t want to risk an animal who won’t eat for you. Then you’re stressed, they’re stressed, it’s just all around not fun. Same thing goes for the wait a week until feeding


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MR Snakes

Ok, ok. So he’s sleeping, napping or slacking off. Ha! He’s doing something that he has not asked permission for! So it’s very confusing when you get differing instructions from the breeder. He said 3-4 days then if he’s chill (which he is), then handle away. He also said to always feed in a separate place so he doesn’t associate reaching into his enclosure with a feeding response. Huh? It is nice as he is about 8 months old and already on frozen weanling rats so no ordeal in transferring over from live to not so live.

---

(At the risk of sounding like an echo) It's up to you, but personally I suggest you feed this snake IN his normal home, where he feels safe & secure & brave enough to grab prey. That is also the standard advice on this forum. Your breeder's advice is a bit goofy, IMO- & this makes me wonder how long he's been breeding snakes & keeping BPs. :rolleyes: Or maybe he really wanted to make a sale so he told you just what you wanted to hear. Hmm?

This has been discussed so many times on this forum...you're more likely to get bit handling a hungry snake before or after feeding whenever you put them in another location just to feed- also, there's nothing to stop them from associating YOUR scent with food, instead of associating their home with being fed. Duh? Either way, you can get bit- much better to learn their body language & use other ways to signal them that you are not edible. Also- handling a snake to put them in another enclosure to feed will often cause a shy feeder to refuse food, & picking them up afterwards if they do manage to eat may also make them barf up what they just ate. So many reasons it's better to feed a snake where they live! ;)

And as to "handle away" after only one successful feeding, again, it's not what I'd advise. Handling distracts most snakes from their feeding instincts- I've probably said this a million times now, but in the wild, the only thing that picks up a snake is a predator about to EAT them- so handling often puts young snakes off eating, which may also put their health at risk. Better to be cautious & let the new BP have at multiple successful feedings (3+) WITH YOU before you start handling any more than what's essential. (Psst, put the snake's needs first. It's a living creature with feelings- not a toy.)

When you buy a new snake, you cannot SEE what he may have been exposed to & what germs are lurking to cause infection. New homes are scary for snakes, & a snake under stress is just more likely to get sick from pathogens, because much like us, their immune system is linked to stress- more stress risks their health, just like it does for us. It's your choice, & maybe you'll be lucky, who knows? But I disagree with your source. ;) Good luck.

It IS a good thing that this snake is 8 mos. old- that helps- he's likely used to being handled some- but he's still in a new home with "strangers". And admittedly, I prefer to be cautious- I've just always found it easier to keep snakes healthy & long-lived than to try to get them well again after they get sick. Silly me. So it's totally your call- we don't all advise the same things, but giving you my best advice here.

OK, just got off the phone with the owner and he agreed with everything you have said and will talk with the guy who talked with us. The breeder was the largest at the show, even larger than NERD which surprisingly had not many Balls. All straightened out. Ghost will be alright!

We just don't want to see your pretty new snake live up to his name ("ghost"), that's all. ;) They sure need to educate their helper(s)- I'm so glad you mentioned your intentions here.

He is finally starting to poke his nose out of his hide. And have evidence that he’s been out of his hide cruising around his home. Tomorrow night will be one week. I’d bet he’ll be ready to eat soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds promising, I agree. :snake: