Healthy Habitat Cleaner and Deodorizer

Is this stuff safe for snakes? Just looking for a decent product, that works... Also is there anything a new owner should have on hand? I got Thermostats, thermometer and temp guns on hand...

I picked up a bottle of this at my local Tractor Supply, you dilute it down so it last a long time

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...7?cm_vc=-10005

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...any/1330124_A1

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

Is this stuff safe for snakes? Just looking for a decent product, that works... Also is there anything a new owner should have on hand? I got Thermostats, thermometer and temp guns on hand...

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NOTE: there are many products with similar sounding names, so to avoid confusion for our readers and ESPECIALLY to avoid any potential HARM from anyone mis-using such products, please always be careful to link specific information to any product you're asking about to be SURE we're all on the same page & no one uses products inappropriately that may cause harm to their pets, okay?

So for clarity, you are asking about?- https://www.chewy.com/natural-chemis...itat/dp/132094

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...518451443_.jpg

And since you asked, I personally use generic chlorhexidine (greatly diluted in my spray bottle, the product shown above in post # 2) & have not yet tried the product by Natural Chemistry that you asked about, but my experience using other products made by them is positive & I would trust them to be safe. I just pulled this quote from Chewy's listing for that to help explain it's use- BUT ALWAYS use products as specifically directed on the package/bottle itself.

does this work as a cleaner/disinfectant for crate?

This solution is a cage cleaner & deodorizer for reptiles & small pets. It's patented technology uses trillions of natural enzymes and co-enzymes to break down undesirable organic materials safely and effectively.
By on Apr 28, 2019

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YL3L5E2...ickstream_3_dp

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YL3L5E2...ickstream_3_dp

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That's the same stuff I posted about (#3), just a smaller spray bottle, not the gallon size jug. The brand is Natural Chemistry.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YL3L5E2...ickstream_3_dp

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A gallon of the Chlorhexidine is the same price as that little spray bottle, Much better value with the gallon jug as it's diluted way down

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gocntry

I picked up a bottle of this at my local Tractor Supply, you dilute it down so it last a long time

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...7?cm_vc=-10005

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...any/1330124_A1

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so thus stuff, will do everything, like in the healthy habitat? Just dilute down? Does this help with odor? And safe to spray everything in a cage down? Water dish? Fake plants ETC?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

so thus stuff, will do everything, like in the healthy habitat? Just dilute down? Does this help with odor? And safe to spray everything in a cage down? Water dish? Fake plants ETC?

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Yes. Wipe/rinse everything you cleaned with plain water afterwards to remove remaining chemicals.

This also ack as a cleaner? To animals cuts and etc? If they get hurt?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

This also ack as a cleaner? To animals cuts and etc? If they get hurt?

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You would have to be careful with that. It needs to be very diluted. At about .05%. Betadine is more common for minor wound treatment.

Chlorhexidine Solution Indications

An antiseptic and antimicrobial disinfectant which provides activity against a wide range of micro-organisms, especially against those commonly present on the skin.
Non-toxic, non-irritating agent possessing a wide range of antiseptic and antimicrobial activity against organisms which infect the skin, such as bacteria, fungi, ringworm and yeast.
Dosage and Administration

Dilute one (1) ounce (2 tablespoons) of CHLORHEXIDINE SOLUTION per gallon of clean water. Rinse the area to be disinfected with an ample amount of CHLORHEXIDINE SOLUTION. Wipe away the excess and pat dry with a sterile gauze or sponge.
Caution(s): Avoid contact with the eyes and mucous membranes. If contact is made, flush immediately and thoroughly with clean water.
For animal use only. (It's not talking about reptiles but fur animals)

For Reptile use: From the pangeareptile website
Chlorhexidine (aka Nolvasan) is a very effective bacteriacide, virucide, and fungicide. 100% safe to use in reptile cages because it leaves no toxic residue or fumes. This is the same stuff veterinarians use to irrigate wounds and is even used as a mouthwash for animals and people. We have been using this product for years and it has our full endorsement.
Dilution rate for Chlorhexidine: 1 ounce (2 Tbsp) solution per 1 gallon of clean water.



I fill my sink with a solution to rinse off all the items in the enclosures to clean all the hides, plastic plants, plastic logs in there. rinse well and dry off

I also use a spray bottle to clean enclosures too, after I wipe it out I let it air out for 10 minutes before putting snake back in.

I use it to spot clean areas where snakes have used the bathroom, I clean out the substrate spay and wipe with that stuff.

I have never detected a lingering odor after from the snakes mess. (My nose might not be the best sniffer though :rofl:)

as it says 1 ounce per gallon of water, 128 ounces to the gallon that makes quite a bit.

Everybody has their own experiences I'm sure, But I've been using it for years and like the stuff and think it does a good job

Hope this helps

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trinityblood

You would have to be careful with that. It needs to be very diluted. At about .05%. Betadine is more common for minor wound treatment.

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Ok, so this is basically then beter use for Cleaner disinfection?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

so this stuff, will do everything, like in the healthy habitat? Just dilute down? Does this help with odor? And safe to spray everything in a cage down? Water dish? Fake plants ETC?

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To clean my tanks, I remove furnishings (hides, branches, water bowl) & all debris (including substrate and feces). This or ANY disinfectant works best when NOT in the presence of biological debris (feces & dirt). So I spray down the now-empty tanks with diluted chlorhexidine & optimally let them sit for about 20 minutes for maximum germ-killing. You can wipe it dry sooner, but just not as effective. This stuff has a very slight fresh scent- not noticeable when dry. You do NOT need to rinse it off the cage walls/floor, but it MUST BE DRY.

BTW, I also use diluted chlorhexidine spray to wipe & dry all rodent cages too. I've used this stuff for about 3 decades now, lol, though I've also tried a few other things along the way, including the chemically very similar "Nolvasan" (which is far more expensive), & the newer F10 (which also cost more, & is also diluted).

To clean hides, fake plants, or water bowls: spray liberally just as with the cage, but water bowls MUST be rinsed out, not just dried. Hides or branches/decor can just be dry prior to contact with the snake. Note: I periodically spray branches liberally with diluted chlorhexidine, then allow to air dry in hot sun. Been doing this way many years of keeping many healthy snakes.

Water bowls, IMO, are best cleaned using just undiluted white vinegar (the stuff in your kitchen & laundry room), because it's a mild antiseptic but also dissolves hard water (mineral) deposits. ;)

Odors come from fecal material that remains when cages are only "spot-cleaned" ineffectively. If the cage smells, it needs a full clean out, not something to "deodorize" it. ;)

Chlorhexidine is also found in mouthwashes (used by humans) & is sometimes used in wound care, or skin disinfection (prior to surgery) etc. In pure form as shown it can be bought by the gallon or pint from feed stores (it's widely used in dairy farming etc) or online- from various sources. You dilute it SO much that unless you have a great many snakes, you don't want to buy a gallon jug- a pint will last you a very long time: use one ounce per gallon of water. ​ It's good stuff because it's effective, safe, easy to use (no rinsing, just wipe cages dry) & very budget-friendly. (It's NOT for internal ingestion or inhalation, please stick to external surface uses on cages & stuff.)

(note: "Healthy habitat" is a totally different kind of product- it uses enzymes to neutralize )

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

This also ack as a cleaner? To animals cuts and etc? If they get hurt?

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I do NOT recommend using chlorhexidine (or for that matter, the Natural Chemistry spray) for cuts & other injuries to your pet- that's NOT what it's for. :colbert:

I DO suggest using a product called Vetericyn ointment for topical use in reptiles- it's carried by some stores like Petco, & also online sources of pet products. It's made FOR reptile use, so it's a water-based ointment that won't harm reptile skin. (It's NOT petroleum-based, aka vaseline-based- which tends to mess up future shedding- as happens when using first aid ointments made for human use, such as Neosporin or polysporin; those can be used briefly in a tiny localized amount in an emergency, but they're just not the best option. You can also use a small amount of povidone-iodine, aka the brand name Betadine- topically- for temporary use on a snake wound that's not deep- but again, Vetericyn is recommended & is the best choice.)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

Also is there anything a new owner should have on hand? I got Thermostats, thermometer and temp guns on hand...

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I am going to list some things that may seem obvious just to cover all the bases because it's absolutely impossible for me to know what you do and don't already know.

-Some type of enclosure that locks in a way the animal cannot escape
-heat source of some kind that can only get power through your thermostat
-water dish that is really difficult to tip over
-two or more identical hides that are sized where your BP fits quite snugly inside
-humid hide with sphagnum moss
-other "decorations" to cover up most of the area that is not taken up by the hides and water dish *I would avoid hard to clean items like wood for the first 90 days*
-digital hygrometer
-paper towel as substrate for 90 days then usually coco bark or cypress mulch works best unless you live in a humid climate

I would recommend having that all set up far in advance so you can fiddle around with the settings to get it just right before the animal arrives.

-spray bottle to mist (I prefer the big ones meant for garden fertilizer that have the small hose but you can use a normal one)
-paper towels to spot clean
-tongs to offer prey
-appropriate sized f/t prey unless the animal is used to eating live, in which case it may be best to stick with what she is used to for a month or so
-kitchen scale
-small locking tub with a few air holes drilled or a "critter keeper" to keep her in while you are doing full enclosure cleaning
-hand sanitizer to clean your hands and tools (after they touch her or her enclosure or other animals and their enclosures) to prevent spread of disease to/from your other reptiles
-snake hook to break feeding response before handling her (many people don't need this with BP's but if you are apprehensive about taking a bite I'd use one till you have practice how to pick her up)
-make a reptile first aid kit with items like vetricyn, betadine, qtips, popsicle sticks, cotton balls, tweezers, syringes (without the needle), unflavored pedialyte, and contact info for normal and emergency vets that both have a lot of experience with snakes

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gocntry

Chlorhexidine Solution Indications

An antiseptic and antimicrobial disinfectant which provides activity against a wide range of micro-organisms, especially against those commonly present on the skin.
Non-toxic, non-irritating agent possessing a wide range of antiseptic and antimicrobial activity against organisms which infect the skin, such as bacteria, fungi, ringworm and yeast.
Dosage and Administration

Dilute one (1) ounce (2 tablespoons) of CHLORHEXIDINE SOLUTION per gallon of clean water. Rinse the area to be disinfected with an ample amount of CHLORHEXIDINE SOLUTION. Wipe away the excess and pat dry with a sterile gauze or sponge.
Caution(s): Avoid contact with the eyes and mucous membranes. If contact is made, flush immediately and thoroughly with clean water.
For animal use only. (It's not talking about reptiles but fur animals)

For Reptile use: From the pangeareptile website
Chlorhexidine (aka Nolvasan) is a very effective bacteriacide, virucide, and fungicide. 100% safe to use in reptile cages because it leaves no toxic residue or fumes. This is the same stuff veterinarians use to irrigate wounds and is even used as a mouthwash for animals and people. We have been using this product for years and it has our full endorsement.
Dilution rate for Chlorhexidine: 1 ounce (2 Tbsp) solution per 1 gallon of clean water.



I fill my sink with a solution to rinse off all the items in the enclosures to clean all the hides, plastic plants, plastic logs in there. rinse well and dry off

I also use a spray bottle to clean enclosures too, after I wipe it out I let it air out for 10 minutes before putting snake back in.

I use it to spot clean areas where snakes have used the bathroom, I clean out the substrate spay and wipe with that stuff.

I have never detected a lingering odor after from the snakes mess. (My nose might not be the best sniffer though :rofl:)

as it says 1 ounce per gallon of water, 128 ounces to the gallon that makes quite a bit.

Everybody has their own experiences I'm sure, But I've been using it for years and like the stuff and think it does a good job

Hope this helps

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Can YOU please Copy all of this, and send it to me in a DM please...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nikkubus

I am going to list some things that may seem obvious just to cover all the bases because it's absolutely impossible for me to know what you do and don't already know.

-Some type of enclosure that locks in a way the animal cannot escape
-heat source of some kind that can only get power through your thermostat
-water dish that is really difficult to tip over
-two or more identical hides that are sized where your BP fits quite snugly inside
-humid hide with sphagnum moss
-other "decorations" to cover up most of the area that is not taken up by the hides and water dish *I would avoid hard to clean items like wood for the first 90 days*
-digital hygrometer
-paper towel as substrate for 90 days then usually coco bark or cypress mulch works best unless you live in a humid climate

I would recommend having that all set up far in advance so you can fiddle around with the settings to get it just right before the animal arrives.

-spray bottle to mist (I prefer the big ones meant for garden fertilizer that have the small hose but you can use a normal one)
-paper towels to spot clean
-tongs to offer prey
-appropriate sized f/t prey unless the animal is used to eating live, in which case it may be best to stick with what she is used to for a month or so
-kitchen scale
-small locking tub with a few air holes drilled or a "critter keeper" to keep her in while you are doing full enclosure cleaning
-hand sanitizer to clean your hands and tools (after they touch her or her enclosure or other animals and their enclosures) to prevent spread of disease to/from your other reptiles
-snake hook to break feeding response before handling her (many people don't need this with BP's but if you are apprehensive about taking a bite I'd use one till you have practice how to pick her up)
-make a reptile first aid kit with items like vetricyn, betadine, qtips, popsicle sticks, cotton balls, tweezers, syringes (without the needle), unflavored pedialyte, and contact info for normal and emergency vets that both have a lot of experience with snakes

---

I got my tub set up, and 2 hides, 13oz water dish, helps keep my humidity around 55%
thermostat is set to 100% cause of the plastic, its out side of the tub, with temp gun i get about 92 to 94 hot spot, But wen i put paper towls down, I get about 88, I have 2 layers of pepper towels to cover the tub flooring...
But i know under those paper towels it sits 92-94...... I think this will be good???

17 litter Really useful Box, Hot side is left side, Cooler side is where the water bowl is at...
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...e52a4c411d.jpg

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gocntry

...
Chlorhexidine (aka Nolvasan) is a very effective bacteriacide, virucide, and fungicide...

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Pardon me for offering a slight correction. These 2 products are NOT identical, besides one (chlorhexidine) being a generic name & the other (Nolvasan) being a trademarked & slightly modified version of chlorhexidine; the important difference to note is that chlorhexidine has very little effect against viruses, whereas Nolvasan does. It's a slightly different chemical configuration that makes the difference- & a big difference in cost. I used to use Nolvasan (when I had way more snakes than I currently have, & included both rescues & some breeding), but I no longer do- I use generic chlorhexidine (& FYI, I currently keep 19 snakes, with no plans to add any- I also use it for my rodent cages). Nolvasan is more typically used in veterinary clinics & other professional locations- & they can write off the cost as a business expense also. ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

...with temp gun i get about 92 to 94 hot spot, But wen i put paper towls down, I get about 88, I have 2 layers of pepper towels to cover the tub flooring...
But i know under those paper towels it sits 92-94...... I think this will be good???

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No. If your snake crawls under those paper towels, he can be harmed by temps. that high. PLAN on snakes getting under any substrate, & never allow the floor for a BP to exceed 89-90* for safety.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

No. If your snake crawls under those paper towels, he can be harmed by temps. that high. PLAN on snakes getting under any substrate, & never allow the floor for a BP to exceed 89-90* for safety.

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i move my thermostat down to 98 from 100....
so get my plastic at about 89-90, and of course with paper towels it will read much lower, But better be safe, then sorry, like you said, What if she crawls under the towels?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

17 litter Really useful Box, Hot side is left side, Cooler side is where the water bowl is at...
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...e52a4c411d.jpg

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This looks great! I'm assuming that the phone rotated the image or something, and you meant left from where you would be standing (top in how it posted). Glad you got the temps adjusted at bit. I found that even with hides, sometimes mine would crawl under the towel. You may have to mist more frequently during that quarantine part with paper towel but it makes it so much easier to see if there is a problem.

my humidity sits Over 50% pretty solid with a 13oz water dish, and adjusting my thermostat from 100 to 98 seems to put my hot at 89 to 91, with no paper towels, Then with paper towels, it reeds about 88 to 87....
will these number work? cause i will be using towels for a while.....

Cool Side sit's at 78 to 80

Yep, sounds just right!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nikkubus

...........unflavored pedialyte...............

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What's the pedialyte for? Replace drinking water or forced hydration?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gocntry

What's the pedialyte for? Replace drinking water or forced hydration?

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For those of us that take in rescues, sometimes you get one that's very dehydrated- you know, kept without water, either because a clueless owner thought snakes don't drink water or they were too lazy to provide it. Also, if you have a snake that regurgitates, or if you need to tube-feed, it can be useful. Most people don't need to stock it though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

For those of us that take in rescues, sometimes you get one that's very dehydrated- you know, kept without water, either because a clueless owner thought snakes don't drink water or they were too lazy to provide it. Also, if you have a snake that regurgitates, or if you need to tube-feed, it can be useful. Most people don't need to stock it though.

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lol he said clueless owner ......

Man i never even seen a snake piss, or can they piss? and how they piss? dumb question, buts its the truth, never in my life seen a snake piss, or ever thought if they can piss, lol ......

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

lol he said clueless owner ......

Man i never even seen a snake piss, or can they piss? and how they piss? dumb question, buts its the truth, never in my life seen a snake piss, or ever thought if they can piss, lol ......

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Snakes drink water, & also get some water from the bodies of their prey, but usually their excrement minimizes the amount of liquid they release in order to conserve water in their bodies. Remember that many snakes survive harsh environments (such as deserts) so instead of urine, they expel chalky semi-moist lumpy-looking stuff called "urates" (usually off-white but may have some other colors too, yellowish or greenish, etc), plus the fecal material (brown) that's more solid. Their excrement is similar to what birds do, in case you've never noticed those white splatters along with brown feces that birds leave.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gocntry

What's the pedialyte for? Replace drinking water or forced hydration?

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Forced hydration. I like to keep it on hand even though it isn't something I need often. It's great for those emergencies that aren't so severe that they warrant paying the premium to see an emergency vet until you can get them in to a normal herp vet.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Snakes drink water, & also get some water from the bodies of their prey, but usually their excrement minimizes the amount of liquid they release in order to conserve water in their bodies. Remember that many snakes survive harsh environments (such as deserts) so instead of urine, they expel chalky semi-moist lumpy-looking stuff called "urates" (usually off-white but may have some other colors too, yellowish or greenish, etc), plus the fecal material (brown) that's more solid. Their excrement is similar to what birds do, in case you've never noticed those white splatters along with brown feces that birds leave.

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Good Info, Thank You, I have allot to learn, and i already know life is 20 to 30 plus years... I am ok with that long life.....
If you have any other info to share, let me know, I'll listen, She cost me allot, But she can not ship yet, to HOT

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

Good Info, Thank You, I have allot to learn, and i already know life is 20 to 30 plus years... I am ok with that long life.....
If you have any other info to share, let me know, I'll listen, She cost me allot, But she can not ship yet, to HOT

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You're welcome but I'll wait for specific questions- meanwhile, keep reading & learning, it will help you to have more background knowledge. :snake:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

You're welcome but I'll wait for specific questions- meanwhile, keep reading & learning, it will help you to have more background knowledge. :snake:

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OK last 2 days i been getting a lil frustrated, I search but i can not find out what's the difference in the
VE-100 & VE-200
All i see in a difference is the VE200 has this Pulse Proportional OR On/Off capable....

I do not know what this means....
Can you please explain the difference in these 2?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

OK last 2 days i been getting a lil frustrated, I search but i can not find out what's the difference in the
VE-100 & VE-200
All i see in a difference is the VE200 has this Pulse Proportional OR On/Off capable....

I do not know what this means....
Can you please explain the difference in these 2?

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That's seems to be the difference, the 100 is on/off only

On/off is just like it sounds the thermostat is either off or on depending on needs, heat pad is either off or 100%

Proportional thermostat will wary the voltage and heat of the heat pad or RHP so it can run from 0% to 100% depending on needs

Here is lots of info

https://www.reptilebasics.com/thermostat_faq

Features chart of the thermostats

https://www.reptilebasics.com/thermostats

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gocntry

That's seems to be the difference, the 100 is on/off only

On/off is just like it sounds the thermostat is either off or on depending on needs, heat pad is either off or 100%

Proportional thermostat will wary the voltage and heat of the heat pad or RHP so it can run from 0% to 100% depending on needs

Here is lots of info

https://www.reptilebasics.com/thermostat_faq

Features chart of the thermostats

https://www.reptilebasics.com/thermostats

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Yes i saw this chart, But i still DO NOT NO what does it mean by

VE-200

Yes

Yes-Pulse/Dimming

i'll try to figure this out, it just sound very confusing, to me, i have no clue what any of this means..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

Yes i saw this chart, But i still DO NOT NO what does it mean by

VE-200

Yes

Yes-Pulse/Dimming

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The VE-200 is YES for "on/off" and YES for "Pulse/dimming" Control, Pulse/Dimming is Better than On/Off

The Ve-100 Is YES for On/Off Only. No Pulse/Dimming This is cheaper but not as good.

Herpstat from Spyder Robotics are good thermostats too, I have several of these they are Proportional as well

https://spyderrobotics.com/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

i'll try to figure this out, it just sound very confusing, to me, i have no clue what any of this means..

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Here's the important part.....

non proportional thermostats use an "on/off" approach and usually have a 1 or 2 degree (or more in cheaper ones) "slop". They turn on 100% when the temperature falls a degree or two below the set point and they stay on until the temperature gets to the set point, and often have momentum and go 1 or more degrees beyond the set point. This means that if you set your thermostat at 80 degrees your actual temps can vary between as low as 76-78 degrees and as high as 82-84 degrees. A roller coaster ride for your animals


proportional thermostat more like a light dimmer with a brain constantly adjusting itself to maintain a much more precise temperature. The "slop" in proportional thermostats is usually measured in 1/10 degrees

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dee151

i'll try to figure this out, it just sound very confusing, to me, i have no clue what any of this means..

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Did you read those links to Reptile Basics? They explain it very well. The model numbers just indicate which product (t-stat) you're buying (look at the chart in 2nd link). FYI, some kinds of heat sources work best with a particular kind of t-stat. Example: if you use UTH, some brands far more than others will just go OFF if you try to use a proportional t-stat, where the power is on but turned down as needed (or dimmed, as when using a "rheostat")- whereas others will still work okay.

An "on-off" t-stat means just that, the power is either full ON or completely off, for those heat sources that respond best this way. To maintain a certain temperature, the less-complex "on-off" kind of t-stat may be frequently going on & off, which may wear out some kinds of heat sources*, so what you need depends on what you're using.

LONG before you get a pet, you need to hook up & test your equipment anyway, so you have time to exchange things that don't work as expected, when you test the temperatures achieved in your set-up -it can take a few days for heat to build up when using UTH, for example- it's low-wattage & efficient, but not "fast". ;) If your room/home is on the cold side, you may either need more than one kind of heat source (ex. UTH plus something overhead- such as a CHE), or another type may be better suited (many prefer an RHP).

I agree this sounds confusing at first, but it's essential that you understand this stuff so you don't harm (over-heat or under-heat) the animals you're trying to maintain. Once you get your enclosure set up properly though, it should not need much tweaking, but do also consider seasonal room or home temperatures- if you use very little A/C & let your place get rather warm in the summer, it might not prepare you for how much heat you need to supply in the winter, if your room or home gets cold where the snake enclosure is.

Yes I read them...
And look at the herpstats one to...
With herpstats, it can be hook up to Any RHP or Heat Mat?


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Pick it uphttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ea36cd2616.jpg

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