Banana ball being picky

I got a banana ball python a little over a week ago. I've tried feeding several times now, and can only seen to get him to strike. He won't latch on or curl around it. I am feeding frozen. He seems interested but just won't take it. Any help is appreciated

Congrats on the new python! Reading your post I have a few thoughts though in order to give better advice we would need to know more details about its enclosure, age/weight.
1. You typically want to give a new snake some time to settle in before attempting to feed.
2. After refusing a meal while stressful for the owner I believe it is best practice to wait until the next feeding day (7 -14 days later depending on age of ball python) before trying to feed again.
3.Are you currently handling him? You will be adviced not to handle him except for cleaning his cage until he has had atleast 3 consecutive meals without refusing with the exception of being in shed.
4. Is the meal you are offering him of the appropriate size? There is a feeding chart on here that can give you specifics based on your snakes weight.
5. What is your method for defrosting the feeder? have you tried the hair dryer method?
6. What time of day are you attempting to feed? Typically ball pythons will prefer to feed in the evening and night.

More information on your situation will help us narrow down specific advice that can get your banana feeding like a champ. :)

All of the above advice is great, if you try all of that and it doesn't work you could try scenting the feeder, offering mice (if you're not already) and if neither of those work you can try feeding live and offer f/t every other time until the snake eats f/t.

Some good advice already given but I'll drop my 2 cents in as well.

You said that you just this snake a little over a week ago and you've tried feeding several times. Odds are the snake is stressed from moving into a new enclosure, getting mailed if you had it shipped, being in a new environment, etc etc. You have to give it time to settle in and your multiple feeding attempts in a short period aren't helping with that.

As mentioned already, take a break, and give it a week to settle in, then try feeding again. Also as Gerguera said, more information about your snake and your enclosure can help us narrow down the issue and maybe offer some husbandry advice to get and keep your new BP eating.

Thank you!
I purchased him on 4/30. He's about 18 inches long. I have a 40 gallon enclosure (I bought a ball python kit) so it has the heating mat, bulb, hides, etc. I realize it might be too big.

He did poop the day I brought him home, so I tried to feed on the 5th day. I then waited until 4-5 more days had passed to try again.

I tried to feed in a separate enclosure, he did not seem interested at all. When I tried to feed in his home, he would strike.


I did handle him once this last weekend. I can hold off on that if it would help, I don't want to stress him out!!


For size, he struck at a small mouse, did not strike at a fuzzy. I left in the fridge overnight and warmed up in a bag in water. I tried putting the head under the lamp. The blow dryer is a good idea!! Both times I tried to feed were at night (1030pm or later)

Thank you

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Originally Posted by Born2rage

Thank you!
I purchased him on 4/30. He's about 18 inches long. I have a 40 gallon enclosure (I bought a ball python kit) so it has the heating mat, bulb, hides, etc. I realize it might be too big.

He did poop the day I brought him home, so I tried to feed on the 5th day. I then waited until 4-5 more days had passed to try again.

I tried to feed in a separate enclosure, he did not seem interested at all. When I tried to feed in his home, he would strike.


I did handle him once this last weekend. I can hold off on that if it would help, I don't want to stress him out!!


For size, he struck at a small mouse, did not strike at a fuzzy. I left in the fridge overnight and warmed up in a bag in water. I tried putting the head under the lamp. The blow dryer is a good idea!! Both times I tried to feed were at night (1030pm or later)

Thank you

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40 is most likely gigantic compared to what he lived in before. Remember BPs are ambush-predators that spend most of their time hiding & waiting for prey to pass cluelessly within reach.

For best results, always start off by providing conditions as similar as possible to what the prior owner (or breeder or store) was doing- same goes for prey. Mice & rats smell vastly different & some snakes like one but not the other, so first off, ASK what he was being fed for best results, & stick with that for a while, until he's eating regularly. Only then make changes if you want or need to.

NEVER feed outside a snake's home enclosure: that alone can stress them into not feeding, & especially for a shy snake like a BP. Remember that the only thing that picks up a snake in nature is a predator that's about to EAT it. Your snake, even if captive bred, relies on instincts to survive...therefore, when you handle him before feeding, he has stopped thinking about food & is most likely afraid. Fear is a real appetite-killer!

Also: you're more likely to get bit trying to handle a snake before & after feeding: first, when they're hungry, they may mistake your warm & wiggling hand for prey, & again AFTER they eat, IF they eat in a side container :rolleyes: -please understand that snakes can stay in "feed mode" (ready to bite prey!) for hours or even days after eating, meaning you're likely to get bit when you try to return them. A BP bite certainly won't be the end of you, but it won't be pleasant, and handling a snake that's in feed mode can be a dangerous habit to make with larger snakes. Also, when a snake bites you, you're more likely to drop them & cause them injury, so there's many good reasons to avoid this whole mess. ;)

For BEST results: NO handling of your new pet until he's fed easily at least 3 times at normal intervals- to give him time to settle in. Eating is important for his growth & health- handling can wait.

:welcome:

Would downsizing add more stress at this point, or should I do that right away? Am I better off waiting for a week and trying to feed again in his current?

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Originally Posted by Born2rage

Would downsizing add more stress at this point, or should I do that right away? Am I better off waiting for a week and trying to feed again in his current?

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Changing to another enclosure (tub or whatever) would likely add more stress- better to make sure this one meets his needs. At least 2 equal hides (one cool side, one warm) and since you obviously have room, make a 3rd hide for humidity (with damp moss inside). Proper hides should be this style (see below). Other brands are fine, just showing you an example, since so many make the mistake of thinking those half-round tree bark tunnels sold in pet stores will work as "hides"- they don't. They're extra cage furniture, but are too open for a snake to feel safe in. You want to provide hides that aren't too much bigger than your snake is when curled up. You can buy one he'll "grow into", but then just pack some paper inside so it fits tighter. Many find that covering the back & sides of a glass tank with either scenery or dark paper taped on will help keep the snake from feeling too "exposed", as does other "clutter" (ie. vines, fake foliage). The enclosure is best located in a fairly quiet room.

And yes, I'd wait a week to try feeding again in his home. Wait until evening also- and don't offer if/when he's roaming the tank. BPs usually do best when peeking out of their hide at night- they don't usually like to hunt openly, as in the wild, they run the risk that other predators may grab them too. Remember they're "ambush-predators"- that's their specialty. :snake:
https://www.reptilebasics.com/images...iew/mdhide.jpg

I know it can be stressful when your snake doesn't eat, I had some trouble with mine and have some tips to share. whoever you got it from, you want to make sure that the breeder had fed the snake, you'll want to figure out what he was feeding the snake as well. another problem could be that the rat isn't warm enough or the rat is spoiled. I know that my ball python will sometimes coil up in a position where half of his body is upside down and he would have trouble eating that way, so he drops the food for a moment to uncoil and then to grab it again, sometimes it takes him a while to grab it again but he usually does. if he isn't coiling he might be too weak, make sure he has water and that he is nice and strong, since you've only had him for a week you should make sure not to handle the snake at all until it's had 3 successful meals, once he has I suggest having "work-out sessions" with the snake, I do this by holding him by in front of his midsection and making a wide circle with my finger, doing this around the snake and making sure it's tight enough where it isn't squeezing him but he has to work to get through my fingers, my snake will then flex his muscles as he's slithering which exercises him, before I would do this his coils were weak and not very tight but now he squeezes that rat so hard that it takes him only around 30 seconds to kill it!

I wish you good luck with your snake, I'm sure it's a beauty!

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Changing to another enclosure (tub or whatever) would likely add more stress- better to make sure this one meets his needs. At least 2 equal hides (one cool side, one warm) and since you obviously have room, make a 3rd hide for humidity (with damp moss inside). Proper hides should be this style (see below). Other brands are fine, just showing you an example, since so many make the mistake of thinking those half-round tree bark tunnels sold in pet stores will work as "hides"- they don't. They're extra cage furniture, but are too open for a snake to feel safe in. You want to provide hides that aren't too much bigger than your snake is when curled up. You can buy one he'll "grow into", but then just pack some paper inside so it fits tighter. Many find that covering the back & sides of a glass tank with either scenery or dark paper taped on will help keep the snake from feeling too "exposed", as does other "clutter" (ie. vines, fake foliage). The enclosure is best located in a fairly quiet room.

And yes, I'd wait a week to try feeding again in his home. Wait until evening also- and don't offer if/when he's roaming the tank. BPs usually do best when peeking out of their hide at night- they don't usually like to hunt openly, as in the wild, they run the risk that other predators may grab them too. Remember they're "ambush-predators"- that's their specialty. :snake:
https://www.reptilebasics.com/images...iew/mdhide.jpg

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Thank you so much for the advice. He's definitely spoiled with lots of places to hide and explore.

A side note, he's been lethargic all week and has blue eyes today so a shed could have been a factor on him not eating too. With him being so new we will find a rhythm. Thank you again for the wonderful advice, hopefully he'll be hungry after he sheds :please:

The shed was probably THE reason- & snakes seem to feel them coming & know before we can see any signs, so when your snake refuses food, wait a few days & watch- often our snakes know exactly what they're doing, they just can't manage to tell us.

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

The shed was probably THE reason- & snakes seem to feel them coming & know before we can see any signs, so when your snake refuses food, wait a few days & watch- often our snakes know exactly what they're doing, they just can't manage to tell us.

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He had a really nice clean shed, so i will be trying again soon!

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Originally Posted by BeansTheDerp

I know it can be stressful when your snake doesn't eat, I had some trouble with mine and have some tips to share. whoever you got it from, you want to make sure that the breeder had fed the snake, you'll want to figure out what he was feeding the snake as well. another problem could be that the rat isn't warm enough or the rat is spoiled. I know that my ball python will sometimes coil up in a position where half of his body is upside down and he would have trouble eating that way, so he drops the food for a moment to uncoil and then to grab it again, sometimes it takes him a while to grab it again but he usually does. if he isn't coiling he might be too weak, make sure he has water and that he is nice and strong, since you've only had him for a week you should make sure not to handle the snake at all until it's had 3 successful meals, once he has I suggest having "work-out sessions" with the snake, I do this by holding him by in front of his midsection and making a wide circle with my finger, doing this around the snake and making sure it's tight enough where it isn't squeezing him but he has to work to get through my fingers, my snake will then flex his muscles as he's slithering which exercises him, before I would do this his coils were weak and not very tight but now he squeezes that rat so hard that it takes him only around 30 seconds to kill it!

I wish you good luck with your snake, I'm sure it's a beauty!

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Thanks for the advice! When I did hold him, he seemed pretty strong. I will be trying to feed again this week, he had a pretty clean shed so now I'm hoping he'll go for it. Also bought pinkies in case the food I tried was too big. I just want the little guy to eat!

same! I hope he eats for you this time!

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Originally Posted by Born2rage

Thanks for the advice! When I did hold him, he seemed pretty strong. I will be trying to feed again this week, he had a pretty clean shed so now I'm hoping he'll go for it. Also bought pinkies in case the food I tried was too big. I just want the little guy to eat!

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With any new snake (as yours still is) AVOID un-necessary handling until after they've fed for you at least 2-3 times without refusals for anything other than being in shed- that's a normal time for a snake to refuse, so being in shed doesn't "count". ;)

Handling distracts a shy snake (as BPs are) from the instincts they need to focus on hunting & eating.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

With any new snake (as yours still is) AVOID un-necessary handling until after they've fed for you at least 2-3 times without refusals for anything other than being in shed- that's a normal time for a snake to refuse, so being in shed doesn't "count". ;)

Handling distracts a shy snake (as BPs are) from the instincts they need to focus on hunting & eating.

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New update, still no luck. The breeder was feeding him frozen fuzzies. He seems completely uninterested. He will shy away or go right past the food. I have been waiting a week in between each try. I'm getting them up to 110 degrees. His tank is at 88 on the warm side, 76 on the cool side. It gets up to 100 at the top of his tree (directly under the lamp) humidity stays around 50-60. It's been a little over a month now. I know it's not that uncommon, but he at least struck at it the first time. I'm thinking about trying live, but was hoping he would take frozen. Any other tips to help would be appreciated!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Born2rage

New update, still no luck. The breeder was feeding him frozen fuzzies. He seems completely uninterested. He will shy away or go right past the food. I have been waiting a week in between each try. I'm getting them up to 110 degrees. His tank is at 88 on the warm side, 76 on the cool side. It gets up to 100 at the top of his tree (directly under the lamp) humidity stays around 50-60. It's been a little over a month now. I know it's not that uncommon, but he at least struck at it the first time. I'm thinking about trying live, but was hoping he would take frozen. Any other tips to help would be appreciated!!

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Since he's still not eating AFTER his shed, it may be that his home is not as secure-feeling to him as you have assumed. You might need to duplicate how the breeder was housing him (ie. much smaller accommodations).

*Also, EXACTLY how & when are you offering him food? This is more important than you might realize, especially if this is your first snake. They're not like feeding cats or dogs or birds- just not. ;)

**Have you been handling this snake at all? It matters...a lot, for a "new" & non-feeding snake.

*** Anything else in the room that might be scaring him? Too much activity (any kind), little kids teasing him or hovering, cats or dogs lurking about...etc?

Don’t know how I missed this thread but no matter ..

I’ve sent you details of the hairdryer method of feeding ( frozen thawed)

You can thank me later :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Since he's still not eating AFTER his shed, it may be that his home is not as secure-feeling to him as you have assumed. You might need to duplicate how the breeder was housing him (ie. much smaller accommodations).

*Also, EXACTLY how & when are you offering him food? This is more important than you might realize, especially if this is your first snake. They're not like feeding cats or dogs or birds- just not. ;)

**Have you been handling this snake at all? It matters...a lot, for a "new" & non-feeding snake.

*** Anything else in the room that might be scaring him? Too much activity (any kind), little kids teasing him or hovering, cats or dogs lurking about...etc?

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I try feeding at night, I warm it up to about 110 and dangle it in front of him with tongs. I've tried to recreate the movement a mouse would make. I've tried leaving it in there for an hour, and he just doesn't care about it. I have handled him but only when cleaning out the enclosure.

I have two cats. One doesn't care at all, the other is relentless. I cover the enclosure if I'm not around, and block off the top. The cat knows he isn't allowed, he's just young and lively and does everything I scold him for. It could definitely be the cat. My options are limited, as if I close any doors the cat destroys the carpet/doors and I live in an apartment. At this point I'm tempted to put the snake enclosure in a closet (mirror doors that slide that the cat hasn't figured out yet) any tips on cats and snakes are welcome too!

You won't like my "tip on cats & snakes"- I don't think they ever belong in the same rooms. Stuff happens & usually snakes lose. Unless they're real big, then the cat loses. Not fair to either one. And cats learning to move a sliding closet door? Just a matter of time, IMO. Snake belongs in a locking cabinet that the cat has no way to open or crash.

Where is the snake when you offer him food? Mostly BPs won't eat if they're out in the open- they're "ambush predators" that prefer to grab prey when they feel safe, peeking out of their hides after dark. And then only if the dead rodent isn't too lively, & it must never seem to approach the snake- you want to elicit a slight chase from the snake, as would happen in the wild.

Cats can make things very difficult. My cats are not allowed in my reptile room, but any animals in quarantine have to go rooms cats are allowed to be. You may have to get really creative to keep the enclosure where the cat can't harass the snake. If the mirrored closet has heavy enough doors, that may work, but you may have to add a lock to the closet if not. A stand that is high enough they can't jump all the way from floor to top of enclosure that is 100 percent flush with the enclosure could work. A really high shelf, almost to the ceiling maybe. Covering it usually isn't enough, the cats will still hear the movement and paw at it. If you do have a room you can keep the cats out of, training them not to scratch would be the best though as much work as it is. Rosemary spray can help create a barrier that usually deters them from wanting to be there, but you have to test it an observe if it works for your particular cat. Best of luck figuring out something, I've certainly dealt with that headache with a very curious and persistent cat.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

Don’t know how I missed this thread but no matter ..

I’ve sent you details of the hairdryer method of feeding ( frozen thawed)

You can thank me later :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Thank you so much!!

- - - Updated - - -

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

You won't like my "tip on cats & snakes"- I don't think they ever belong in the same rooms. Stuff happens & usually snakes lose. Unless they're real big, then the cat loses. Not fair to either one. And cats learning to move a sliding closet door? Just a matter of time, IMO. Snake belongs in a locking cabinet that the cat has no way to open or crash.

Where is the snake when you offer him food? Mostly BPs won't eat if they're out in the open- they're "ambush predators" that prefer to grab prey when they feel safe, peeking out of their hides after dark. And then only if the dead rodent isn't too lively, & it must never seem to approach the snake- you want to elicit a slight chase from the snake, as would happen in the wild.

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The blow dryer method worked! He's eating

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Originally Posted by Born2rage

...The blow dryer method worked! He's eating

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HOORAY!!! :pinkele::dance: :banana:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Born2rage

Thank you so much!!

- - - Updated - - -




The blow dryer method worked! He's eating

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Excellento :)


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Just another update:

Last week, Rage ate a frozen fuzzy. This week he ate a frozen small mouse! I've added another heating pad to help with the slight temp issues, and humidity is looking good too. The hair dryer method helped so much!! Just wanted to share the good news :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Born2rage

Just another update:

Last week, Rage ate a frozen fuzzy. This week he ate a frozen small mouse! I've added another heating pad to help with the slight temp issues, and humidity is looking good too. The hair dryer method helped so much!! Just wanted to share the good news :)

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That’s great news !!


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by nikkubus

Cats can make things very difficult. My cats are not allowed in my reptile room, but any animals in quarantine have to go rooms cats are allowed to be. You may have to get really creative to keep the enclosure where the cat can't harass the snake. If the mirrored closet has heavy enough doors, that may work, but you may have to add a lock to the closet if not. A stand that is high enough they can't jump all the way from floor to top of enclosure that is 100 percent flush with the enclosure could work. A really high shelf, almost to the ceiling maybe. Covering it usually isn't enough, the cats will still hear the movement and paw at it. If you do have a room you can keep the cats out of, training them not to scratch would be the best though as much work as it is. Rosemary spray can help create a barrier that usually deters them from wanting to be there, but you have to test it an observe if it works for your particular cat. Best of luck figuring out something, I've certainly dealt with that headache with a very curious and persistent cat.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

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I invested in a 'ssscat' it is a motion sensor thing that sprays air. It's working wonders on keeping my cat off the counter above the enclosure! He hates air blown at him so it has proven to help, and it's hilarious to watch too