Bad shed

I recently purchased a ball python. He was shedding when I got him, and shed again 2 weeks later. I kept his humidity up but nonetheless he retained his eye caps, and I believe it has been like this for multiple sheds due to lack of humidity at per store. I have been able to get 2 layers off and there’s more, but it just won’t come off. I am not applying much pressure at all and being extremely careful. I have soaked him the last 3 days for about 30 minutes or so. And suggestions? Is it time for a vet visit?

Are you sure it's another retained eye cap, or could it be damage to the current layer because of the ones that were stuck? It may take another shed cycle or two to really get things right.

Is he eating for you?

I'd provide him a humid hide (a little ziplock tupperware the size of a sandwich with a hole cut in, filled with damp sphagnum moss works well) and keep a close eye on his face and mouth. If you see swelling or anything else abnormal I'd get him to the vet ASAP.

I think you'd be wise to have him checked by an experienced herp vet. It can be difficult to tell what needs to come off & people have damaged the eyes, & even blinded their snakes trying to do this & going too far. There's not much we can tell from here either.

(nikkubus is right- sometimes snakes have permanently clouded eyes- & I'd recommend a humid hide too)

Also poked around and noticed you also recently posted about mites. Mites cause dehydration and could have a lot to do with the shed problems, and until he has recovered from that, he is going to have a tough time. Given that is going on as well, it's not a bad idea to get him in, make sure he doesn't need IV fluids, because he very well could be severely dehydrated. There is no telling how long he has been battling the mites, wearing him down.

Yes I was battling mites as well and luckily with perseverance and a lot of care I was able to get rid of them. I can see his actual eye under there and like you said I didn’t want to hurt him. The other 2 came off with ease after the soaking. He moves around fine and is active. And he did eat for me the first 2 weeks even with the issues. I think the mites just really got to him. It has only been about 2 weeks since he has eaten.
i am also having a hard time finding a vet anywhere near me that does any form
of reptile.

Thank you for your help. I live in a rural area, and there are not stores around me that would sell moss. I’m not close to any big chains either. Is there anything else I could use for a humid hide? And how do I go about finding a vet? I have checked every vet within an hour+ of me and no luck.

Chewy.com, Amazon, reptile basics, the bean farm, etc for items not available locally. I’m also in a ruralish area and have nothing close by but petco and I’d rather not go there. Pretty much the entirety of my husbandry supplies have to be ordered online.
As for vets, same deal with me here. Closest decent reptile vet I could find was 2.5hrs away. Not ideal but necessary care is necessary care.
https://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661
Check out this site to search for a reptile specialist nearish to you.


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Thank you very much. I actually just ordered that stuff from chewy. And I was afraid I was gunna run into that issue. As you said necessary. A little update though he was super active about 40 minutes ago i offered food and he took it. He had it down quick too. I’m guessing he is feeling better after getting the mites cleaned up, and eyes must not be bother him to bad to eat correct?

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Originally Posted by Adinelli1092

Yes I was battling mites as well and luckily with perseverance and a lot of care I was able to get rid of them. I can see his actual eye under there and like you said I didn’t want to hurt him. The other 2 came off with ease after the soaking. He moves around fine and is active. And he did eat for me the first 2 weeks even with the issues. I think the mites just really got to him. It has only been about 2 weeks since he has eaten.
i am also having a hard time finding a vet anywhere near me that does any form
of reptile.

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Mites can be very difficult to fully get rid of, so don't let your guard down for a while, okay? Their life cycle of leaving tiny eggs that can re-ignite their "community" means you need to stay vigilant for about a month, because their numbers can increase exponentially & they really can harm a snake faster than you'd think, even kill them- especially a small or young one. We're on your side & truly hope they're completely gone, but just seen too many owners that "thought they were", only to have them make a come-back. ;)

That's wonderful & encouraging that he's eating for you despite the issues & you're obviously a caring owner- :gj: He's on his way to getting fully healthy, thanks to you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

just seen too many owners that "thought they were", only to have them make a come-back. ;)

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Absolutely. They can come back with a vengeance after a few weeks.

I completely understand. You helped me with the more issue and after tons of research I know better than to think they are gone. Honestly I don’t think they are I think I have just manage to kill all live ones for the moment. We just finished mote treatment 2 days ago and I still haven’t introduced normal substrate, I feel bad because he likes to dig, but I want to wait at least another week or so and a couple more baths just to
be on the safe side. I don’t wanna have to put him threw this again anytime soon.

White paper towels as substrate for at least a month is generally helpful to see any resurgence of mites. I understand they're not ideal either for humidity or "comfort". You could always try what I do for some hatchlings- take a little "stack" of paper towels & shred them into strips, then toss them like a salad- snakes love the tangle of fluff to hide in or explore, & you won't be helping the mites any. This won't raise (or lower) the humidity, but it's a lot easier to see mites on white paper towels than in the more natural substrates, & costs very little, especially if you have to toss it out more often. Sad to say I think it's unlikely that mites are fully gone, but you'll get there. ;) :snake:

Everyone on here has been a lot of help and I appreciate that greatly. I thought I might ask what is the ideal setup for bp. I know it can vary depending house temp/humidity. I just want to make sure I am providing the best care and everyone on here wants that. So who better to ask.

Ok I will do that for at least the next the month then. I actually just picked up the biggest pack of paper towels you can buy!!

Also what is a good way to keep it humid without the substrate to help? I ordered moss and a small hide for a humid hide, will that help keep it humid in the tank as well

You can use a wider water dish than normal, more surface area means more water evaporating to raise the humidity. You can fold a paper towel and very lightly dampen it for the humid hide till the mites are for sure gone, but I would replace it every couple days because it doesn't have anything to stop it from molding like some natural materials do.

The "best" is debatable. Here is a sticky guide from this forum. I highly favor plastic enclosures over glass because of the ability to retain heat better and more appropriate ventilation for BP. https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...s%29-Caresheet

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Adinelli1092

Everyone on here has been a lot of help and I appreciate that greatly. I thought I might ask what is the ideal setup for bp. I know it can vary depending house temp/humidity. I just want to make sure I am providing the best care and everyone on here wants that. So who better to ask.

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Have you discovered the Caresheets & numerous threads under Ball Pythons here yet? Just > "Forum" above, scroll down to "Caresheets" or "Ball Pythons" below that.
This is for starters*: https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...ius)-Caresheet
*This are due for a revision, we recommend keeping the upper temps. not over 88-90*. If you have ANY questions...please feel free to ask.

As far as the "ideal" set-up, there are various opinions on that, & some (esp. breeders) prefer smaller accommodations (using "tubs") while others like other options. All these can work, if you focus on the needs of the kind of snake you're keeping, in this case a BP. BPs are shy "ambush predators" that prefer to hide much of the time, so they like their home to feel a bit "cluttered" & should always have 2 hides (cool side & warm side) because most snakes choose "security" over the right temperature, & if they need to digest (for example), you want them to thermoregulate properly. At any rate, there's no "one right answer" which is why we share tips here. You should always pay attention to your own pet- what they seem to prefer, as they're not all identical either.

Thank you I will check that out.