Peppers basking bulb blew up and got glass on her

The bulb got glass on her and I am worried that I could have impaled her and killed her because her head was right under the bulb. There was glass in her room and one shard on her. Will she be okay, she is acting okay he slithering and flicking her tongue.


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Geez! Is she bleeding? Any wounds/cuts visible? What kind of bulb was this?

I used bulbs as heat for 20yrs and never had one actually explode. I feel like there are other issues at play here


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It was a zoomed basking bulb and I looked and I didn’t see any blood it didn’t help that I had red velvet cake mix on me. But I washed her off and my mother held her while I cleaned the room and she looked her over with a flashlight and didn’t see any. I didn’t see any either but it scared me because she did get a price of glass on her. If it impaled her head though it would have probably already kill her no? So shouldn’t she be alright?


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I think what happened is that the humidifier sometimes drip water droplets down the screen and the bulb must have touched it by accident and that’s what happened. I don’t keep the hose by the lights but it has let droplets that slither on the screen before. I have had it happen once a long time ago when the bowl of water I had In my hand fell onto the hot light and bam


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Originally Posted by jmcrook

I used bulbs as heat for 20yrs and never had one actually explode. I feel like there are other issues at play here


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I agree! Same here, but make it 35 years, lol. Then again, I don't let water anywhere NEAR a hot bulb or electric cords!!! :O

I didn’t mean to but it I had to move it for a minute and must have set it where the droplet was. I honestly am shocked and was shaking. She should be alright thought, right?


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Originally Posted by 4Dobermans

I think what happened is that the humidifier sometimes drip water droplets down the screen and the bulb must have touched it by accident and that’s what happened. I don’t keep the hose by the lights but it has let droplets that slither on the screen before. I have had it happen once a long time ago when the bowl of water I had In my hand fell onto the hot light and bam


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Glad she's OK...this time. Your methods need worked on for safety. Preventing accidents is far less traumatic than dealing with the injuries or losses when you fail to do so.

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Originally Posted by 4Dobermans

I didn’t mean to but it I had to move it for a minute and must have set it where the droplet was. I honestly am shocked and was shaking. She should be alright thought, right?


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As long as you're sure there's no injuries, & no remaining glass shards in her home or anywhere stuck on her. Please make sure this cannot happen again.

I it would have killed her instantly if it impales her right?
I honestly hate these stupid bulbs but I use them for her. I will be moving the hose more to the other side so that doesn’t happen again. I think what it was is because this down is more to the ground than the other one is and that’s why the water got on the bulb.


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I really don’t see any injuries and my mother also looked at her with a bright flashlight too. She isn’t even bleeding so I don’t think she has any.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4Dobermans

I it would have killed her instantly if it impales her right?
I honestly hate these stupid bulbs but I use them for her. I will be moving the hose more to the other side so that doesn’t happen again. I think what it was is because this down is more to the ground than the other one is and that’s why the water got on the bulb.


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Well, yes, you could have killed her, but maybe not instantly. Depending on where the glass went- could have meant a whole lot of suffering, that's for sure. Especially if you couldn't locate all the embedded pieces. Water should be nowhere NEAR electricity- snakes have also been electrocuted when connecting the two. What you're doing is not safe. Even if you move it "more to the other side", what if it gets bumped when no one notices? You have to plan for that potential & prevent it completely. Your luck (her luck, actually) might run out next time.

I have to have her humidifier but there’s nowhere else to put it and I would’ve noticed if she got impaled, right?
It’s the one with the hose but I really have nowhere else to put it because the hose has to be on the screen so it can go into her room.


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I don’t think any embedded into her because wouldn’t someone have noticed or felt it. She should be alright, right?


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I don't really care what the humidity is, if you're going to endanger the snake to raise the humidity, you need to find a better way (ie. humid hides &/or substrate that holds humidity, etc.).
Your priorities are out of whack: water + electricity = :colbert:

And no one including me can tell you online that your snake is alright: we aren't there & we cannot see her, it's up to you.

I have tried the moss but it really doesn’t do anything because it’s so dry here. I did get her a new humidifier for inside her cage for Christmas. Would that be safe? I usually never let the lamps near the hose but today it was a accident that I really didn’t mean to do.


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I do have the eco earth but I have to be careful because if too much water gets there it can cause her to get scale rot.


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It’s this tree stump fogger from pet smart.


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Originally Posted by 4Dobermans

It’s this tree stump fogger from pet smart.


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Not familiar with it so I can't comment. Also, we aren't seeing your set-up. :confusd: But water dripping on (or splashing) lights is a no-go. I know you didn't "mean to do it" but preventing accidents is essential. Her safety is up to you.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2872e62570.jpg
The basking one usually goes where the night one is right now and that one gets pushed back a little for the day. What happened is that the hose usually goes on the other side of the tree and the light stays on that side but I had to move the dome for a second because the wires got tied up and I accidentally put it on a water droplet I believe and the bulb exploded. You can see pepper by the wood hut right there.


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I honestly really really didn’t mean too and I love pepper so much, so please don’t think that I did it on purpose or something because I honestly didn’t even think about it at the moment. I love pepper so much and she is like a baby to me. I will never do it again. I was thinking of moving the hose back over the water dish, would that be okay?
And should pepper be alright as long as she continues to act alright?


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It's late here, as far as addressing your set-up (there's other issues too). I don't know of anyone else with a 'hose' dripping water, so there has to be a better way to humidify.

I don't think for a minute that this was anything but an accident, but it's still up to us to prevent accidents. It sounds like she's okay, & I'm glad. But it's time to change what you're doing.

It’s a zoomed fogger and trust me it drips A lot. I did get her some plants for her room and I was out of eco earth and I had to use something when I cleaned up the glass and the aspen was better than paper. I also got her a bigger hut. They are all for Christmas plus she has a bamboo stick I haven’t figured out how to hang safely and one of those hanging twisted ropes but haven’t figured out how to put it up either.


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fcafdaf837.jpg
I think peppers alright because she just buried herself into the aspen. Adorable!!


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Aspen is horrible for holding humidity so changing your substrate would help, as would throwing out your glass day/night bulbs and fogger and getting a CHE dome over the cage for heating. One bulb, no light, make sure it's in a ceramic dome made for it, on a dimmer or thermostat and then get a room humidifier to run.

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Originally Posted by GoingPostal

Aspen is horrible for holding humidity so changing your substrate would help, as would throwing out your glass day/night bulbs and fogger and getting a CHE dome over the cage for heating. One bulb, no light, make sure it's in a ceramic dome made for it, on a dimmer or thermostat and then get a room humidifier to run.

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Aspen is horrible... full stop !

As you say it’s useless for controlling humidity, it looks rubbish -very unnatural, it gets all over the house on your shoes and it ‘seems’ to drain the colour out of lighter coloured snakes .

Check out the difference between aspen and reptile / orchid bark !

The above mentioned bark is dangle controlling humidity as well .

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a42fedf893.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1752930aa2.jpg


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It sounds like you’re using a zoo med reptifogger. I had the same experience with the hose dripping frequently and the water collecting on the screen, but it can certainly be a good way to provide humidity. I also live in a very dry climate. To increase humidity, I use reptile prime substrate. It holds moisture well when misted. A humidity box, tupperware with a hole cut in the lid filled with moist sphangum moss, works really well for my snakes. It won’t increase the ambient humidity, but it gives them a nice humid spot to go soak some up.

It sounds as though your bulbs are currently making contact with the screen when placed in that dome? If this is the case, the dome is not deep enough for the lights you are using. I would recommend looking for a lamp with deeper dome. Check the wattage of the lamp and make sure you get the correct bulbs. I would agree with the suggestion above about switching to a ceramic heat emitter from personal experience, but make sure that you get a thermostat to regulate it if you do.

Then, you could get a reptile lamp stand so that your lights are hanging and are no longer making contact with the screen at all. This would prevent the same issue from happening again.

I do have a ceramic heat emitter for during the night but it only gets up to 80 and that fine for night but she needs something warmer for the day. The only reason I got this done is because it has a dimmer so if it gets too hot I can dim it without it shutting off every 5 minutes from the thermostat. The Che is on a thermostat. Also I just put aspen in there because I didn’t have any more soil and I had to change it because of the glass in in.


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I would notice if she has glass embedded on her right?
I washed her with water instantly and dried her with a towel. I have looked her over and so has my mom but we don’t see anything on her.


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Also is it weird that peppered pupils have always been a little different in size. It’s barely but if you look closely you can see one is like a cm off but it’s not even noticeable. Is that weird or worrying because her eyes have always kinda been like that I believe.


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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

It's late here, as far as addressing your set-up (there's other issues too). I don't know of anyone else with a 'hose' dripping water, so there has to be a better way to humidify.

I don't think for a minute that this was anything but an accident, but it's still up to us to prevent accidents. It sounds like she's okay, & I'm glad. But it's time to change what you're doing.

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Is it normal that peppers pupils have always been a little different in size not even really noticeable but I have noticed that one is slightly always a little bigger than the other pupil. I think she has always had it and both react to light but this one is always slightly bigger pupil.


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Look, your setup needs work, so I hope it's OK if I and others comment on it. I live in a dry area, too. As I write this, the overall humidity in my snake room is 20%. But I have snakes that require anything from moderate humidity - my Ball Python and Green Tree Python are happiest with humidity at about 55-60% - to high humidity - my Brazilian Rainbow Boa needs a minimum of 85% humidity and preferably higher.

I don't use misters or foggers with ANY of my snakes. I don't like them because they are a PITA to keep clean so that they don't just spray bacteria around. In your situation I'd honestly get that thing out of Pepper's enclosure right away. I've kept snakes for 30 years and never had a bulb or heating element blow up; please just remove the risk until you can get your enclosure sorted out.

You're using aspen substrate, which works for some people but for people like me who live in very dry areas, it is terrible for holding humidity. If you switch to something like cypress mulch (Forest Floor brand, for example) or coconut husk substrate like ReptiChip, make it a good 2-3" deep, and keep that substrate just SLIGHTLY damp with water, your humidity will increase and stay stable. You can also get sphagnum moss, get it damp, and mix it in with the substrate for extra help with humidity.

You're using a glass tank. Is the screen top open to the air? Or have you covered most of it with HVAC/foil tape (sorry, I can't tell from your photos). You are using bulbs for heating, which are hell on humidity. If you use a CHE plus a UTH that should work, and will be easier on humidity. It looks like a small tank, so even a lower wattage CHE should keep temperatures reasonable, and a UTH can boost the warm spot if needed.

From your post history it seems like you've had a lot of trouble using heating and basking bulbs. I'd suggest that you stop using bulbs and just switch to a CHE + UTH.

I don't usually recommend Facebook groups because Facebook can be toxic and crazy, but in this case I am going to suggest that you join a group called 'New Ball Python Keepers'. I know Pepper is a Boa, but I think the information you'll find in that group will help you. I'm an admin there and I can guarantee we have zero tolerance for rudeness or for people who give bad information. There are files there on how to set up a tank or tub safely, how to manage humidity, etc.

I know you love Pepper. I also know new keepers need a lot of help and information (so do veteran keepers sometimes!). So hang in there and try to be open to making changes that can help with your enclosure setup and help Pepper stay cozy and healthy.

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Originally Posted by Caitlin

From your post history it seems like you've had a lot of trouble using heating and basking bulbs. I'd suggest that you stop using bulbs and just switch to a CHE + UTH.

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THIS

Also, and please don't take this as me being rude or abrasive, but I remember your last post where you were worried Pepper and IBD but couldn't tell us why. A lot of users suggested you go to the vet and you kind of brushed that suggestion off and are doing the same here. Someone mentioned setting aside some funds for better equipment and emergency vet visits, and this is exactly why. We can't sit here and diagnose injuries or illness with your animal, and I promise you a vet will make you feel 100% better than we can on the internet. You've got some husbandry issues that were addressed in your previous post, and not to jump down your throat but it doesn't seem like you've addressed any of them, and are now having additional issues. I really don't mean to sound rude but it seems like you're just looking for someone to tell you that your snake is fine so you can move on and not make the changes that are being suggested to you.

She has a 40 gallon tank and I haven’t been keeping her on aspen but I was out and it was either this or papers. Her soil had glass in it so I took it all out and washed everything off and put some aspen in there since I was out of eco earth. I have tried spraying the dirt with water and moss but non of that works because it can cause scale rot and it still dries up very fast. The Che is a 100watt but it only gets to about 79 degrees and that’s okay for the night but the basking bulbs I use keep to around 85-90 degrees during the day. I also just don’t feel comfortable leaving the ceramic on all day because my bulbs usually burn out in less than 3 months only using them during the night. Pepper also does bask under her bulb sometimes. It’s winter and it hasn’t snowed or rained here even 3 times this whole year. I will use the foggers because those keep it nice a humid in there for her but the bulb was just a stupid accident. I still don’t even know if it was the water because the bulb is a few inches off the screen. I moved the hose over her bamboo and the dome is over the wood hut so those two won’t clash again. It’s so dry here my hands are literally cracking and bleeding. I am trying and I will raise the humidity because she will be shedding soon, I believe. I will be getting her some new eco earth on Friday and more large mice.

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Originally Posted by Hugsplox

THIS

Also, and please don't take this as me being rude or abrasive, but I remember your last post where you were worried Pepper and IBD but couldn't tell us why. A lot of users suggested you go to the vet and you kind of brushed that suggestion off and are doing the same here. Someone mentioned setting aside some funds for better equipment and emergency vet visits, and this is exactly why. We can't sit here and diagnose injuries or illness with your animal, and I promise you a vet will make you feel 100% better than we can on the internet. You've got some husbandry issues that were addressed in your previous post, and not to jump down your throat but it doesn't seem like you've addressed any of them, and are now having additional issues. I really don't mean to sound rude but it seems like you're just looking for someone to tell you that your snake is fine so you can move on and not make the changes that are being suggested to you.

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Trust me a vet visit will not make me better, I would not trust that lady with my snake for all the tea in China. I really am not trying to but you don’t know this vet she is Horrible and I mean she really shouldn’t even be a vet. My animal went in there breathing heavily after she diagnosed her with a tooth infection and she wasn’t getting better after a few days, so I took her back and the lady said to leave her for the day. We were ready to get her after a few hours because the lady called and said she was very stressed there but she wouldn’t let us get her until it was the scheduled checkout time. She came home on her side and less than 10 minutes she literally died in my lap. I called and the vet said she wasn’t that bad there and she was eating and moving around, how could the lady get her go eat when even I couldn’t and had to force feed her? She then went on to say that we must have done something between the 10 minutes because she was “fine” there. My father picked her up and he said she was on her side breathing really hard when the technician gave her back. I already took her to that vet before that happened and I will never do it again. I had that animal for years and I loved her and it was obviously a mistake to take her to that lady.


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Originally Posted by 4Dobermans

Trust me a vet visit will not make me better, I would not trust that lady with my snake for all the tea in China. I really am not trying to but you don’t know this vet she is Horrible and I mean she really shouldn’t even be a vet. My animal went in there breathing heavily after she diagnosed her with a tooth infection and she wasn’t getting better after a few days, so I took her back and the lady said to leave her for the day. We were ready to get her after a few hours because the lady called and said she was very stressed there but she wouldn’t let us get her until it was the scheduled checkout time. She came home on her side and less than 10 minutes she literally died in my lap. I called and the vet said she wasn’t that bad there and she was eating and moving around, how could the lady get her go eat when even I couldn’t and had to force feed her? She then went on to say that we must have done something between the 10 minutes because she was “fine” there. My father picked her up and he said she was on her side breathing really hard when the technician gave her back. I already took her to that vet before that happened and I will never do it again. I had that animal for years and I loved her and it was obviously a mistake to take her to that lady.


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Enough excuses! Find a better vet: https://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661

And the best way to avoid going to the vet is to FIX YOUR HUSBANDRY ISSUES.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hugsplox

THIS

Also, and please don't take this as me being rude or abrasive, but I remember your last post where you were worried Pepper and IBD but couldn't tell us why. A lot of users suggested you go to the vet and you kind of brushed that suggestion off and are doing the same here. Someone mentioned setting aside some funds for better equipment and emergency vet visits, and this is exactly why. We can't sit here and diagnose injuries or illness with your animal, and I promise you a vet will make you feel 100% better than we can on the internet. You've got some husbandry issues that were addressed in your previous post, and not to jump down your throat but it doesn't seem like you've addressed any of them, and are now having additional issues. I really don't mean to sound rude but it seems like you're just looking for someone to tell you that your snake is fine so you can move on and not make the changes that are being suggested to you.

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And the sad thing is that we have been going to that animal hospital for almost 30 years.
I trusted those people with my pet but that was a big mistake.
The lady told us the first time that her back tooth was infected. But the second time said it was a respiratory infection, how can those two get mixed up? A different vet form the same hospital said that my bps tail tip turning black was normal and she should be fine, go find out it isn’t normal for their tip to turn black and fall off for no reason.


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If your CHE are burning out in less than 3 months, something else is wrong. I'm hoping others can chime in here as I have never experienced this before. A 100 watt CHE should be enough to keep your 40 gallon at proper temps, though if your room is kept chilly you may need a higher wattage or a supplemental UTH. There is no reason you should have to worry about keeping your CHE on at all times; this needs to be addressed for the sake of your snake.

An enclosure with proper humidity will not cause scale rot. Scale rot arises from a combination of wet substrate (WET, not the very slight dampness that you find in properly hydrated substrate), incorrect temperatures, and enclosures that aren't clean.

This is what I share with new keepers who are struggling with humidity:
1. Use a moisture-friendly substrate such as cypress mulch or coconut husk. These substrates are good for mixing water into them and not molding.

2. When the substrate eventually dries out and humidity drops below desired levels, re-hydrate it. My method is to remove the artificial plants, hides, water bowl, etc. and pour several cups of water (depending on enclosure size) directly onto the substrate. You want your substrate to feel just slightly moist, but not so much that it makes your hands wet or that you can squeeze water out of it. Mix it in thoroughly, spread it out, and then replace the furniture in the enclosure. This enables the moisture to evaporate slowly throughout the week, because it is deep in the layers, rather than quickly if you mist just the top of the substrate.

3. Seal off about 3/4 of a screen mesh lid (if you have glass or a terrarium that has a screen top lid) with foil tape. Foil tape is good because aluminum does not get hot like other metals. You can use straight up aluminum foil as well, but it's crinkly and loud, does not seal as well, and is often difficult to maintain with removing the lid now and then.

4. Use a large water bowl, and put it somewhere near your heating element (either over an Under Tank Heater, or near a Ceramic Heat Emitter or Radiant Heat Panel). The extra water in the tank will evaporate into the air.

5. Mix sphagnum moss with water and squeeze it out until it is damp but not "dripping". You can either mix it straight into the substrate or put it in little mesh bags or stockings to make "moss balls", or set it in little cups where you can add more water over time.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Enough excuses! Find a better vet: https://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661

And the best way to avoid going to the vet is to FIX YOUR HUSBANDRY ISSUES.

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I just did that and it said that there was no matches. I honestly don’t know how to make it better considering I can’t buy anything until Friday.

And by the way they aren’t excuses because they have really happened!! And since I am lying I know the name of each animal hospital. This other one I haven’t went to before but took my chicken because she had a staph infection, said that it was cancer. It wasn’t cancer considering a huge kernel plus pus popped out and after months it finally healed.

Prescott animal hospital and there are 3 vets that take reptiles but I have tried all of them.
Premier pet hospital. Only one doctor takes reptiles here

Those are the only two that take exotic animals in Prescott.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4Dobermans

I just did that and it said that there was no matches. I honestly don’t know how to make it better considering I can’t buy anything until Friday.

And by the way they aren’t excuses because they have really happened!! And since I am lying I know the name of each animal hospital. This other one I haven’t went to before but took my chicken because she had a staph infection, said that it was cancer. It wasn’t cancer considering a huge kernel plus pus popped out and after months it finally healed.

Prescott animal hospital and there are 3 vets that take reptiles but I have tried all of them.
Premier pet hospital. Only one doctor takes reptiles here

Those are the only two that take exotic animals in Prescott.


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Again not being rude, but this is the same story you gave on your other post, yet you still have all these animals with, allegedly, no vet that you trust to take them to. If I didn't have a vet I trusted to take reptiles to in my area, then I wouldn't have reptiles. This is like pet keeping 101, and I'm at a loss as to what else to tell you or how else we're supposed to help you. You told us on your last post that it was hard to have funds available for basic husbandry because you had all these other pets, now you're saying you can't buy anything until Friday. I'm sorry but exotic pets require exotic vets and supplies, all of which can be expensive, and if you don't have the funds to dedicate to that then maybe it's time to consider rehoming.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4Dobermans

I just did that and it said that there was no matches. I honestly don’t know how to make it better considering I can’t buy anything until Friday.

And by the way they aren’t excuses because they have really happened!! And since I am lying I know the name of each animal hospital. This other one I haven’t went to before but took my chicken because she had a staph infection, said that it was cancer. It wasn’t cancer considering a huge kernel plus pus popped out and after months it finally healed.

Prescott animal hospital and there are 3 vets that take reptiles but I have tried all of them.
Premier pet hospital. Only one doctor takes reptiles here

Those are the only two that take exotic animals in Prescott.


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You might have to drive further to get the vet help you need...many others do just that. If you cannot do that, you shouldn't try to keep pets for which there is no local vet help, it's not fair to them is it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4Dobermans

...A different vet form the same hospital said that my bps tail tip turning black was normal and she should be fine, go find out it isn’t normal for their tip to turn black and fall off for no reason.


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FYI, if you don't check your snake's tail tip after EVERY SHED to make sure all the old skin came off, it can get stuck, & only a few layers of old shed on their tail tip is enough to cut off the blood supply and cause death of tissue. (hence the black dead tail tip- which can also cause a systemic & fatal infection in a snake!) That was a husbandry issue, it was something that YOU could & should have prevented.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Caitlin

If your CHE are burning out in less than 3 months, something else is wrong. I'm hoping others can chime in here as I have never experienced this before. A 100 watt CHE should be enough to keep your 40 gallon at proper temps, though if your room is kept chilly you may need a higher wattage or a supplemental UTH. There is no reason you should have to worry about keeping your CHE on at all times; this needs to be addressed for the sake of your snake.

An enclosure with proper humidity will not cause scale rot. Scale rot arises from a combination of wet substrate (WET, not the very slight dampness that you find in properly hydrated substrate), incorrect temperatures, and enclosures that aren't clean.

This is what I share with new keepers who are struggling with humidity:
1. Use a moisture-friendly substrate such as cypress mulch or coconut husk. These substrates are good for mixing water into them and not molding.

2. When the substrate eventually dries out and humidity drops below desired levels, re-hydrate it. My method is to remove the artificial plants, hides, water bowl, etc. and pour several cups of water (depending on enclosure size) directly onto the substrate. You want your substrate to feel just slightly moist, but not so much that it makes your hands wet or that you can squeeze water out of it. Mix it in thoroughly, spread it out, and then replace the furniture in the enclosure. This enables the moisture to evaporate slowly throughout the week, because it is deep in the layers, rather than quickly if you mist just the top of the substrate.

3. Seal off about 3/4 of a screen mesh lid (if you have glass or a terrarium that has a screen top lid) with foil tape. Foil tape is good because aluminum does not get hot like other metals. You can use straight up aluminum foil as well, but it's crinkly and loud, does not seal as well, and is often difficult to maintain with removing the lid now and then.

4. Use a large water bowl, and put it somewhere near your heating element (either over an Under Tank Heater, or near a Ceramic Heat Emitter or Radiant Heat Panel). The extra water in the tank will evaporate into the air.

5. Mix sphagnum moss with water and squeeze it out until it is damp but not "dripping". You can either mix it straight into the substrate or put it in little mesh bags or stockings to make "moss balls", or set it in little cups where you can add more water over time.

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The house stays at 65 but since it has tile, only one heat vent, the door is usually closed because of the dog at night, and I have a big window in there so it’s pretty cold in there. She luckily isn’t on the floor but on a blanket on the dresser so that keeps it a little warmer there. I will be getting her new eco earth. Would New Zealand sphagnum moss work or is there a better moss?
I will also use my fogger but this time to make sure it stays Away from the bulb. I always clean her cage and make sure to get the poop as soon as I notice it and I don’t think she has ever slithered through it. I also change her water at least once a week because she doesn’t drink it every day and I use those blue drops for the water. I can’t remember it’s name right now but I have it somewhere in my room.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

FYI, if you don't check your snake's tail tip after EVERY SHED to make sure all the old skin came off, it can get stuck, & only a few layers of old shed on their tail tip is enough to cut off the blood supply and cause death of tissue. (hence the black dead tail tip- which can also cause a systemic & fatal infection in a snake!) That was a husbandry issue, it was something that YOU could & should have prevented.

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I checked it though and she didn’t have any stuck shed on it. I know that because I use to always check to make sure after every shed. This was on one of my first snakes and the doctor said I dropped something on her tail, which I know I didn’t. I always check on it and I Know that there I was Nothing on the tip of that tail when I looked at it and I am not stupid and can see. Pepper once got some shed stuck on the very very tip and I got it off immediately when I noticed the afternoon after she shed.


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Originally Posted by 4Dobermans

I checked it though and she didn’t have any stuck shed on it. I know that because I use to always check to make sure after every shed. This was on one of my first snakes and the doctor said I dropped something on her tail, which I know I didn’t. I always check on it and I Know that there I was Nothing on the tip of that tail when I looked at it and I am not stupid and can see. Pepper once got some shed stuck on the very very tip and I got it off immediately when I noticed the afternoon after she shed.


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...09476d1e1b.jpg
Is it not supposed to look like this because I KNOW I got that piece off? I took a wet paper towel and gently rubbed it off.


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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

FYI, if you don't check your snake's tail tip after EVERY SHED to make sure all the old skin came off, it can get stuck, & only a few layers of old shed on their tail tip is enough to cut off the blood supply and cause death of tissue. (hence the black dead tail tip- which can also cause a systemic & fatal infection in a snake!) That was a husbandry issue, it was something that YOU could & should have prevented.

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...60fadc26ef.jpg
Does this look like a normal tail?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

FYI, if you don't check your snake's tail tip after EVERY SHED to make sure all the old skin came off, it can get stuck, & only a few layers of old shed on their tail tip is enough to cut off the blood supply and cause death of tissue. (hence the black dead tail tip- which can also cause a systemic & fatal infection in a snake!) That was a husbandry issue, it was something that YOU could & should have prevented.

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...07f7266ec6.jpg


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4Dobermans

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...60fadc26ef.jpg
Does this look like a normal tail?


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Her tail tip -as far as I can tell in this & other photo- is normal and is SUPPOSED to be black...it's part of her markings.