Questions about my daughter's new BP

Hi all,

So happy to find this forum. My 14 year old daughter just got a ball python 2 days ago. She did hours of research about the snakes themselves and what they need so I'm pretty comfortable with her setup.

A few questions, though:

1. We bought the mat heater and thermostat but put it on the side of the glass tank instead of underneath (the instructions seemed to advice against the bottom?). Is that okay? Where do I put the sensor for the thermostat if the mat is on the side? (yes, there is also a ceramic bulb for heat on the top and she has 2 thermometers in their to keep track of the temps on the hot and cool side).

2. Is it okay if the snake hasn't come out for 2 days now? He was fine when he went in and we got him from a reputable place, we just want to make sure that behavior is normal. My daughter is not taking him out of tank for a week and she plans to feed him on Sunday for the first time.

3. Is it okay for the heat lamp on top to always be on?


Thanks everyone! I attached a picture of the tank for reference.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SaC...ew?usp=sharinghttps://drive.google.com/file/d/1SaC...ew?usp=sharing

BP's need belly heat for digestion. Side mounting is no good, ignore the packaging as it is made for many types of reptiles.

Ambient temps really don't matter that much until they go below 70, so no need for any other heating devices besides the heat mat.

I never ever see my BP out unless I take him out. If I did see him out during the day I would immediately think something was wrong. They don't call them "pet rocks" for nothing.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by walzon1

BP's need belly heat for digestion. Side mounting is no good, ignore the packaging as it is made for many types of reptiles.

Ambient temps really don't matter that much until they go below 70, so no need for any other heating devices besides the heat mat.

I never ever see my BP out unless I take him out. If I did see him out during the day I would immediately think something was wrong. They don't call them "pet rocks" for nothing.

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I have to disagree. BPs don't need belly heat for digestion. It helps to aid in digestion however, but is not needed. I don't run belly heat with any of my pythons.

It's important to understand the heat mat isn't designed for ambient temps. They're designed solely to provide a hot spot. Putting it on the side unfortunately is essentially useless.

Also, ambient temps are important, otherwise they wouldn't be discussed as a part of basic husbandry. You also never want to go as low as 70°. 75% should be the absolute minimum, while aiming for 78-80.

Without knowing where you live or the ambient temperature of the room the snake is in its impossible to determine whether you need an additional heat source. IMPORTANT - ALL HEAT SOURCES SHOULD BE REGULATED BY A THERMOSTAT.
It's fine if the heat lamp is on all day, but likely isn't needed in the summer, but that depends on your location and room temps as well.

Yes, BPs spend the vast majority of their time hiding. Not a concern, especially since the snake is still acclimating to his new environment.
That being said, if they're out and about during the day it doesn't mean something is wrong.

Lastly, I STRONGLY advise holding off on handling the snake until it is eating reliably. You'll have 20+ years for handling. Eating is priority right now.
I always suggest new keepers wait until the snake has eaten 3 consecutive meals without refusal.

Right now, focus on getting husbandry dialed in, leave the snake alone to acclimate and make sure he's eating reliably.

Oh....I actually just looked at the pic of the enclosure....
You'll want to clutter it up more. You may even have to downsize the enclosure for a while. BPs crave security and that enclosure offers almost none. You'll want to black out the sides and back of the enclosure as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rosiegirl

Hi all,

So happy to find this forum. My 14 year old daughter just got a ball python 2 days ago. She did hours of research about the snakes themselves and what they need so I'm pretty comfortable with her setup.

A few questions, though:

1. We bought the mat heater and thermostat but put it on the side of the glass tank instead of underneath (the instructions seemed to advice against the bottom?). Is that okay? Where do I put the sensor for the thermostat if the mat is on the side? (yes, there is also a ceramic bulb for heat on the top and she has 2 thermometers in their to keep track of the temps on the hot and cool side).

2. Is it okay if the snake hasn't come out for 2 days now? He was fine when he went in and we got him from a reputable place, we just want to make sure that behavior is normal. My daughter is not taking him out of tank for a week and she plans to feed him on Sunday for the first time.

3. Is it okay for the heat lamp on top to always be on?


Thanks everyone! I attached a picture of the tank for reference.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SaC...ew?usp=sharinghttps://drive.google.com/file/d/1SaC...ew?usp=sharing

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As Craig said, you'll need a lot more clutter and I personally would move the UTH to...Under the Tank. Just keep it regulated with the thermostat, buy an IR temp gun to read the glass and dial it in. It's also likely that your humidity is way too low based on the screen top. Cover it with foil/something else to help with this.

I just want to emphasize that Craiga is giving you good advice. The only time I put a heat mat on the side of the enclosure is when I am dealing with a young arboreal snake that will be spending all of its time out and on elevated perches. That's not the case for a Ball Python, so you'll be providing the best temperature gradient by putting the heat mat on the bottom of the enclosure so that it covers about 1/3 of the floor space. The probe goes on the bottom of the OUTSIDE of the enclosure, sandwiched between the enclosure bottom and the heat mat. You can use foil tape (like HVAC tape that you get on Amazon or at Home Depot) to hold the probe in place. Don't cover the probe tip itself with tape, though!

Be sure that the UTH is connected to a thermostat to regulate temps and prevent burns.

Belly heat is not required for digestion for any snake, but all snakes require appropriate ambient temperatures for digestion, and they need a temperature gradient in their enclosure so that they can choose to be in a warmer area or cooler areas. As Craiga mentioned, a UTH does not affect ambient temperatures. A UTH is used to create a warm spot which will be the warm end of your temperature gradient. IF the ambient temps in the room where the snake is kept never ever go below 75F, then the UTH is all you'd need. Otherwise you will need another heating element like a ceramic heat emitter or a deep heat projector or a bulb. I prefer emitters/projectors because they only emit heat, not light, so you can leave them on 24/7 if need be without stressing your snake with needless light.

If you use a CHE, projector, or bulb, be sure it's on a thermostat as well.

Your tank has a screen top, so you are going to lose humidity like crazy. To maintain the humidity your snake needs, you'll likely need to cover most of the screen top with foil/HVAC tape.

Your new Ball Python is just a baby and needs to feel very safe, enclosed, and secure - and that tank is just too bare and open right now. Add another hide or two; add clutter like fake vines on the ground. For now, you could just crumple up paper towels and put them in there till you get your vines, etc.

Being in the hide is totally normal. Ball Pythons are a shy snake and will often spend almost all of their time in their hides. If they are going to be out and about, it'll be in the middle of the night.

I also agree with Craiga that you should wait till the baby has taken about 3 meals before you handle it. There's nothing more important right now than establishing good husbandry and establishing good eating patterns. Good luck to you guys, and I hope you feel free to ask questions and get support here whenever needed!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

I have to disagree. BPs don't need belly heat for digestion. It helps to aid in digestion however, but is not needed. I don't run belly heat with any of my pythons.

It's important to understand the heat mat isn't designed for ambient temps. They're designed solely to provide a hot spot. Putting it on the side unfortunately is essentially useless.

Also, ambient temps are important, otherwise they wouldn't be discussed as a part of basic husbandry. You also never want to go as low as 70°. 75% should be the absolute minimum, while aiming for 78-80.

Without knowing where you live or the ambient temperature of the room the snake is in its impossible to determine whether you need an additional heat source. IMPORTANT - ALL HEAT SOURCES SHOULD BE REGULATED BY A THERMOSTAT.
It's fine if the heat lamp is on all day, but likely isn't needed in the summer, but that depends on your location and room temps as well.

Yes, BPs spend the vast majority of their time hiding. Not a concern, especially since the snake is still acclimating to his new environment.
That being said, if they're out and about during the day it doesn't mean something is wrong.

Lastly, I STRONGLY advise holding off on handling the snake until it is eating reliably. You'll have 20+ years for handling. Eating is priority right now.
I always suggest new keepers wait until the snake has eaten 3 consecutive meals without refusal.

Right now, focus on getting husbandry dialed in, leave the snake alone to acclimate and make sure he's eating reliably.

Oh....I actually just looked at the pic of the enclosure....
You'll want to clutter it up more. You may even have to downsize the enclosure for a while. BPs crave security and that enclosure offers almost none. You'll want to black out the sides and back of the enclosure as well.

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You can disagree with me all you want but please don't quote my post for technicalities. Thanks

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You should also put feet of some kind on the corners of the tank to keep the undertank heater off the surface of the table or desk that it's on. The little sillicone nubbins that usually come with the heaters are pretty useless, so I'd advise getting some self-adhesive furniture feet pads or something similar.
Good luck with your new boopnoodle!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by walzon1

You can disagree with me all you want but please don't quote my post for technicalities. Thanks

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Your post is on a public forum. People are going to comment, or in this case disagree.

People come here to learn, and sharing inaccurate info doesn't help anybody.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

Your post is on a public forum. People are going to comment, or in this case disagree.

People come here to learn, and sharing inaccurate info doesn't help anybody.

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Like I said it's not your comment it's that there was no need to quote me so I have to read your post it's fine for the OP.

I happen to disagree with your post as well I see no need to argue about it like you are trying to.


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Thanks everyone! We are in New York, right outside of the city for weather/temperature reference.

Craiga,

1. I will buy a new heat mat to mount underneath. Can I leave the paper on and just tape it on with aluminum tape?

2. Right now, the warm side is 90 (55% humidity) and the cooler side is 80 (45% humidity). We have two thermostats but I will buy a heat gun, too. (and we can use it before the kids leave for school in the morning!)

3. The heat lamp is on top of the tank but it is not regulated by a thermostat...do we need to add a thermostat to the lamp or will the heating pad be enough? I'm guessing in our New York winters, we'll need the lamp too?

4. Got it on the snake handling, she will hold off!

5. Will add some more hides as well. Do we need a humidity box, too?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

I have to disagree. BPs don't need belly heat for digestion. It helps to aid in digestion however, but is not needed. I don't run belly heat with any of my pythons.

It's important to understand the heat mat isn't designed for ambient temps. They're designed solely to provide a hot spot. Putting it on the side unfortunately is essentially useless.

Also, ambient temps are important, otherwise they wouldn't be discussed as a part of basic husbandry. You also never want to go as low as 70°. 75% should be the absolute minimum, while aiming for 78-80.

Without knowing where you live or the ambient temperature of the room the snake is in its impossible to determine whether you need an additional heat source. IMPORTANT - ALL HEAT SOURCES SHOULD BE REGULATED BY A THERMOSTAT.
It's fine if the heat lamp is on all day, but likely isn't needed in the summer, but that depends on your location and room temps as well.

Yes, BPs spend the vast majority of their time hiding. Not a concern, especially since the snake is still acclimating to his new environment.
That being said, if they're out and about during the day it doesn't mean something is wrong.

Lastly, I STRONGLY advise holding off on handling the snake until it is eating reliably. You'll have 20+ years for handling. Eating is priority right now.
I always suggest new keepers wait until the snake has eaten 3 consecutive meals without refusal.

Right now, focus on getting husbandry dialed in, leave the snake alone to acclimate and make sure he's eating reliably.

Oh....I actually just looked at the pic of the enclosure....
You'll want to clutter it up more. You may even have to downsize the enclosure for a while. BPs crave security and that enclosure offers almost none. You'll want to black out the sides and back of the enclosure as well.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by walzon1

Like I said it's not your comment it's that there was no need to quote me so I have to read your post it's fine for the OP.

I happen to disagree with your post as well I see no need to argue about it like you are trying to.


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That’s just how this forum works. Otherwise readers have to scroll back through endless comments to find what the most recent post is in reference to. Don’t like it? Don’t post.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by jmcrook

That’s just how this forum works. Otherwise readers have to scroll back through endless comments to find what the most recent post is in reference to. Don’t like it? Don’t post.


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Thanks, didn't know that, I'll keep that in mind. Don't want unnecessary scrolling.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by walzon1

Like I said it's not your comment it's that there was no need to quote me so I have to read your post it's fine for the OP.

I happen to disagree with your post as well I see no need to argue about it like you are trying to.


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I'm not trying to argue. I'm pointing out inaccuracies in your post so that people can learn.

Keeping your BP below 75 can cause RI, as well as possible digestion problems. Not to mention could put the animal on a food strike.

Ambient temps 100% matter.

You can't possibly know if someone else needs an additional heat source with knowing more about the location the animal is being kept.

Not arguing, educating.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

I'm not trying to argue. I'm pointing out inaccuracies in your post so that people can learn.

Keeping your BP below 75 can cause RI, as well as possible digestion problems. Not to mention could put the animal on a food strike.

Ambient temps 100% matter.

You can't possibly know if someone else needs an additional heat source with knowing more about the location the animal is being kept.

Not arguing, educating.

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Bro I'm trying to listen to a Rogan podcast and your quotes are ruining it. I really don't care about your opinion. Save it for the OP.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by rosiegirl

Thanks everyone! We are in New York, right outside of the city for weather/temperature reference.

Craiga,

1. I will buy a new heat mat to mount underneath. Can I leave the paper on and just tape it on with aluminum tape?

2. Right now, the warm side is 90 (55% humidity) and the cooler side is 80 (45% humidity). We have two thermostats but I will buy a heat gun, too. (and we can use it before the kids leave for school in the morning!)

3. The heat lamp is on top of the tank but it is not regulated by a thermostat...do we need to add a thermostat to the lamp or will the heating pad be enough? I'm guessing in our New York winters, we'll need the lamp too?

4. Got it on the snake handling, she will hold off!

5. Will add some more hides as well. Do we need a humidity box, too?

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Happy to help!

1. You might be able to remove the existing he's mat if you're careful. The have thin coils in them that create the heat which are fragile though when bent.

Otherwise, yeah a new one will be needed. I can't say with 100% confidence you can leave the paper on, but believe you can. I don't want to steer you wrong though, so please double check.

2/3. Your temps are spot on. But yes, you'll need a tstat for the CHE. You can use a rheostat (dimmer switch) but it's not accurate like a tstat. You need to adjust as room temps fluctuate. Whereas a tstat does the work for you.
A temp gun is a fantastic tool every keeper should have. Remember to temp the actual glass surface, not the substrate because your snake will burrow and push substrate around. The kids will have fun temping things too!

4. I know it's tempting to hang out with a new pet, but unfortunately snakes are a bit different that way. During your research I'm sure you learned BPs can be a bit picky about eating, which can be true. The two major reasons a BP will refuse food are improper husbandry and stress. You're already nipping stress in the bud by cluttering the enclosure, but handling is obviously stressful for them. Since new keepers can't easily identify stress or troubleshoot it's best to avoid stress altogether. It'll be worth the wait.

5. I personally only use a humidity box during shed, and not with all of my snakes. But it certainly can't hurt to offer one all the time. Plenty of keepers do.


Good luck! Please keep us posted. Feel free to ask any questions you have, we're happy to help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by walzon1

Bro I'm trying to listen to a Rogan podcast and your quotes are ruining it. I really don't care about your opinion. Save it for the OP.

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That's fine. You don't have to care about my opinion. But please don't share inaccurate information and when you do expect it to be corrected.

I'm not here to educate the ignorant, but to help people who are here to learn. Block me if you don't like it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

That's fine. You don't have to care about my opinion. But please don't share inaccurate information and when you do expect it to be corrected.

I'm not here to educate the ignorant, but to help people who are here to learn. Block me if you don't like it.

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I'm not ignorant, I have personal experience that says your wrong my ambient is 72-73 since I got my BP and no issues. I have reached out to professionals that say it's fine so explain that.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

That's fine. You don't have to care about my opinion. But please don't share inaccurate information and when you do expect it to be corrected.

I'm not here to educate the ignorant, but to help people who are here to learn. Block me if you don't like it.

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I'm not ignorant, I have personal experience that says your wrong my ambient is 72-73 since I got my BP and no issues. I have reached out to professionals that say it's fine so explain that.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by walzon1

I'm not ignorant, I have personal experience that says your wrong my ambient is 72-73 since I got my BP and no issues. I have reached out to professionals that say it's fine so explain that.

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So you have one snake and maybe a few years experience? Talk to me when you have multiple snakes and 15+ years of experience.

If youve been keeping those temps and avoided regurgitation by now youve been pretty lucky. However, snakes are FANTASTIC at hiding illness, so your snake may have underlying issues you don't see yet.

If "experts" are telling you that, find new experts.
I'm done derailing this thread though. If you want answers PM me. Or, just for fun, start a thread asking what minimum safe temps are for a BP. You'll learn pretty quickly you're misinformed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

So you have one snake and maybe a few years experience? Talk to me when you have multiple snakes and 15+ years of experience.

If youve been keeping those temps and avoided regurgitation by now youve been pretty lucky. However, snakes are FANTASTIC at hiding illness, so your snake may have underlying issues you don't see yet.

If "experts" are telling you that, find new experts.
I'm done derailing this thread though. If you want answers PM me. Or, just for fun, start a thread asking what minimum safe temps are for a BP. You'll learn pretty quickly you're misinformed.

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Well snakes are new to me but keeping animals is not and I have 20 plus years experience in other pets and and it's people like you who ruin good forums with your absolutes. Your numbers are guidelines not rules, get over yourself.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

Happy to help!

1. You might be able to remove the existing he's mat if you're careful. The have thin coils in them that create the heat which are fragile though when bent.

Otherwise, yeah a new one will be needed. I can't say with 100% confidence you can leave the paper on, but believe you can. I don't want to steer you wrong though, so please double check.

2/3. Your temps are spot on. But yes, you'll need a tstat for the CHE. You can use a rheostat (dimmer switch) but it's not accurate like a tstat. You need to adjust as room temps fluctuate. Whereas a tstat does the work for you.
A temp gun is a fantastic tool every keeper should have. Remember to temp the actual glass surface, not the substrate because your snake will burrow and push substrate around. The kids will have fun temping things too!

4. I know it's tempting to hang out with a new pet, but unfortunately snakes are a bit different that way. During your research I'm sure you learned BPs can be a bit picky about eating, which can be true. The two major reasons a BP will refuse food are improper husbandry and stress. You're already nipping stress in the bud by cluttering the enclosure, but handling is obviously stressful for them. Since new keepers can't easily identify stress or troubleshoot it's best to avoid stress altogether. It'll be worth the wait.

5. I personally only use a humidity box during shed, and not with all of my snakes. But it certainly can't hurt to offer one all the time. Plenty of keepers do.


Good luck! Please keep us posted. Feel free to ask any questions you have, we're happy to help.

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All of the above ^

Nothing to add to that really apart from suggesting that you add an awful lot more clutter... branches , fake foliage from dollar stores , one more ideally identical hide at the cooler end - even a third hide on the middle somewhere.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by walzon1

Well snakes are new to me but keeping animals is not and I have 20 plus years experience in other pets and and it's people like you who ruin good forums with your absolutes. Your numbers are guidelines not rules, get over yourself.

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To be fair he’s made some excellent points and the numbers / temps are pretty much as the others have suggested .. for example none of my Royal vivs go under 80F or over 92F


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

To be fair he’s made some excellent points and the numbers / temps are pretty much as the others have suggested .. for example none of my Royal vivs go under 80F or over 92F


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I know you didn't read the whole thread, this guy wants to argue. I told him if your speaking to the OP don't quote me cause it alerts my phone and I don't feel reading your how to care for BP booklet that is copy and pasted from "pick any website" on the internet. His info is fine never said it wasn't, he just wants to tell people they are wrong to feel good about himself.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by walzon1

I know you didn't read the whole thread, this guy wants to argue. I told him if your speaking to the OP don't quote me cause it alerts my phone and I don't feel reading your how to care for BP booklet that is copy and pasted from "pick any website" on the internet. His info is fine never said it wasn't, he just wants to tell people they are wrong to feel good about himself.

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“This guy” knows what he’s talking about and is trying to avoid misinformation being spread that can be read by newcomers here. Don’t want alerts sent to your phone? Turn them off in settings.
Craig isn’t copy/pasting anything. He’s taking time out of his day to try and help people care for their animals. I suggest you check your attitude at the door or find another forum.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by jmcrook

“This guy” knows what he’s talking about and is trying to avoid misinformation being spread that can be read by newcomers here. Don’t want alerts sent to your phone? Turn them off in settings.
Craig isn’t copy/pasting anything. He’s taking time out of his day to try and help people care for their animals. I suggest you check your attitude at the door or find another forum.


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Wait who are you again?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by jmcrook

“This guy” knows what he’s talking about and is trying to avoid misinformation being spread that can be read by newcomers here. Don’t want alerts sent to your phone? Turn them off in settings.
Craig isn’t copy/pasting anything. He’s taking time out of his day to try and help people care for their animals. I suggest you check your attitude at the door or find another forum.


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Simple, stop quoting me and I'll stop responding, why is is so hard? You guys keep bugging, now I'm dedicated.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by walzon1

Wait who are you again?

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Just a dedicated reptile keeper with a quarter century of experience doing so. And you are...?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by jmcrook

“This guy” knows what he’s talking about and is trying to avoid misinformation being spread that can be read by newcomers here. Don’t want alerts sent to your phone? Turn them off in settings.
Craig isn’t copy/pasting anything. He’s taking time out of his day to try and help people care for their animals. I suggest you check your attitude at the door or find another forum.


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Also he's wrong UTH don't provide ambient heat.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by jmcrook

Just a dedicated reptile keeper with a quarter century of experience doing so. And you are...?


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Just someone trying to learn and don't feel like arguing over a forum

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OP, craigs advice is sound and worth following. Disregard the rest of this nonsense.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by walzon1

Simple, stop quoting me and I'll stop responding, why is is so hard? You guys keep bugging, now I'm dedicated.

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I'm replying to help others. I don't need to feel good about myself by pointing out incorrect information. It's not about YOU. It's about the animals. I quote you so others know what I'm replying to. Again, not about you.

Keeping other animals and keeping snakes is VERY different. Your experience there is irrelevant.

If you don't want to be interrupted turn your notifications off or block me.

As you can see, every other comment on the thread backs up everything I said. So, if you're done, kindly accept that you're misinformed and stop derailing the poor OPs thread.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

I'm replying to help others. I don't need to feel good about myself by pointing out incorrect information. It's not about YOU. It's about the animals. I quote you so others know what I'm replying to. Again, not about you.

Keeping other animals and keeping snakes is VERY different. Your experience there is irrelevant.

If you don't want to be interrupted turn your notifications off or block me.

As you can see, every other comment on the thread backs up everything I said. So, if you're done, kindly accept that you're misinformed and stop derailing the poor OPs thread.

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If you know so much why do you feel that you have to keep responding? Insecure much?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by walzon1

If you know so much why do you feel that you have to keep responding? Insecure much?

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Now you're instigating. Craig has been a member of this site for years and had helped many people. I get he may come off as a little "abrasive" (no offense Craig!) but he means well and I've learned a lot from him. He's simply right about ambient temps, and you're upset all because he quoted your post?! Lol. Let's be adults here and remember we're all here to help people not derail threads because we a little upset over being proven wrong.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Toad37

Now you're instigating. Craig has been a member of this site for years and had helped many people. I get he may come off as a little "abrasive" (no offense Craig!) but he means well and I've learned a lot from him. He's simply right about ambient temps, and you're upset all because he quoted your post?! Lol. Let's be adults here and remember we're all here to help people not derail threads because we a little upset over being proven wrong.

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I made it clear I'm not here to argue since my first post, I asked craig very politely not to keep responding. I've been on here for 2 years watching Craig and his minions start arguments for absolutely nothing. every time somebody contradicts the status quo they want to attack. I posted zero bad information. All my info was from my own experience and is 100 percent opinion. That's what this forum is for. Somehow my opinion is wrong and his opinion is right. Ummm No. There is a reason post count is always low on this forum and almost all forums now a days anybody who has a different opinion is berrated. Not me, not today [emoji2]



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OP, I'm sorry this thread was derailed so badly.

As I'm sure you can see, one member seems to be convinced his/her short window of experience with one animal is right. But even he/she says it's opinion.

Luckily, people have been studying these animals for many years and science doesn't lie, nor is it opinion. Of course, there's variation and we're always learning and growing. But I think based on the replies of every member (a combined 70 years of experience probably) except one you will be able to make an educated decision.

I wish you and your daughter the best of luck with your new pet. Feel free to PM me if you have questions and don't want the drama or misinformation.

Sorry as well to the OP, hope you can see past these childlike actions and get some good information out of it. Whoever has more experience is obviously right and those with not as much are completely wrong. Please PM him and he will show you the way , the truth, and the life.

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

Happy to help!

1. You might be able to remove the existing he's mat if you're careful. The have thin coils in them that create the heat which are fragile though when bent.

Otherwise, yeah a new one will be needed. I can't say with 100% confidence you can leave the paper on, but believe you can. I don't want to steer you wrong though, so please double check.

2/3. Your temps are spot on. But yes, you'll need a tstat for the CHE. You can use a rheostat (dimmer switch) but it's not accurate like a tstat. You need to adjust as room temps fluctuate. Whereas a tstat does the work for you.
A temp gun is a fantastic tool every keeper should have. Remember to temp the actual glass surface, not the substrate because your snake will burrow and push substrate around. The kids will have fun temping things too!

4. I know it's tempting to hang out with a new pet, but unfortunately snakes are a bit different that way. During your research I'm sure you learned BPs can be a bit picky about eating, which can be true. The two major reasons a BP will refuse food are improper husbandry and stress. You're already nipping stress in the bud by cluttering the enclosure, but handling is obviously stressful for them. Since new keepers can't easily identify stress or troubleshoot it's best to avoid stress altogether. It'll be worth the wait.

5. I personally only use a humidity box during shed, and not with all of my snakes. But it certainly can't hurt to offer one all the time. Plenty of keepers do.


Good luck! Please keep us posted. Feel free to ask any questions you have, we're happy to help.

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Thanks again! We will buy a new heat mat and attach it to the bottom and add clutter. He came out to explore last night about 8pm and seemed very happy!

The heat lamp we have has a dimmer on it, but I think we'll get one without and add a thermostat. It definitely gets cold in our house in the winter!

Only question my daughter still has is about the humidity levels. Right now it is 45% on the hot side and 55% on the cooler side.

That humidity isn’t too bad for when the snake is not in shed. I’d suggest covering 2/3 or more of the screen top with something to minimize moisture and heat loss though, especially during the colder months. Aluminum foil/plexiglass/etc will likely help your humidity levels. I try to aim for 65-70% or so when in shed.
You can use the dimmer lamp with a thermostat no problem. Thermostat will just adjust temps for you rather than having to fuss with the dimmer all the time.

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Very happy to help.

Sounds like you're a few adjustments away from getting things dialed in. Once dialed in it get much easier, I promise.

The humidity could come up a smidge, but it's not bad. With my BPs I aim to keep it above 50% until a shed cycle begins, then I bump it to 70%

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

Very happy to help.

Sounds like you're a few adjustments away from getting things dialed in. Once dialed in it get much easier, I promise.

The humidity could come up a smidge, but it's not bad. With my BPs I aim to keep it above 50% until a shed cycle begins, then I bump it to 70%

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Actually I have to disagree 60 percent is ideal humidity and it should not go lower than that.

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Originally Posted by walzon1

Actually I have to disagree 60 percent is ideal humidity and it should not go lower than that.

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This guy:rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by Toad37

This guy:rolleyes:

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Just trying to make sure there isn't incorrect information being put out there

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Originally Posted by Toad37

This guy:rolleyes:

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Aye aye aye...

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

Aye aye aye...

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It's not my fault your wrong and I have to correct you. It's important for the OP to get the correct information

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Originally Posted by walzon1

It's not my fault your wrong and I have to correct you. It's important for the OP to get the correct information

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Dude, you're wrong again and seriously becoming a pain in the rear. Stop the childish trolling BS and move on. Clearly NOBODY is taking you seriously. OP has blatantly ignored you, you're not helping anybody, kindly go have fun elsewhere.

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

Dude, you're wrong again and seriously becoming a pain in the rear. Stop the childish trolling BS and move on. Clearly NOBODY is taking you seriously. OP has blatantly ignored you, you're not helping anybody, kindly go have fun elsewhere.

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Not trolling just trying to be helpful. 60 percent is the correct humidity everyone else agree will agree with that. Not sure what your problem is.

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Originally Posted by walzon1

Not trolling just trying to be helpful. 60 percent is the correct humidity everyone else agree will agree with that. Not sure what your problem is.

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Youre obviously trying to get a rise out of me and others. You're not helping anybody with your limited experience and opinions.
YOU, YOU are the problem. You don't have a clue what you're talking about, you're intentionally pushing buttons. Just grow up and move on.

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

Youre obviously trying to get a rise out of me and others. You're not helping anybody with your limited experience and opinions.
YOU, YOU are the problem. You don't have a clue what you're talking about, you're intentionally pushing buttons. Just grow up and move on.

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Not trying to attack you, I'm sorry if you thought that, I apologise. Really wish you would just let it go. I don't hold on to the past.

Not sure why you feel you are the only one who is allowed to post and have an opinion. You keep trying to discredit me and degrade me. I never did that to you. As you said, if you don't like it don't post. If you don't like it block me. It's a public forum right?

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Originally Posted by walzon1

Not trying to attack you, I'm sorry if you thought that, I apologise. Really wish you would just let it go. I don't hold on to the past.

Not sure why you feel you are the only one who is allowed to post and have an opinion. You keep trying to discredit me and degrade me. I never did that to you. As you said, if you don't like it don't post. If you don't like it block me. It's a public forum right?

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I don't feel as though I'm the only one who can post or have an opinion. It's NOT ABOUT OPINION. Years of science and research went into determinig what husbandry is best for the animals. Not opinion!!! I don't get why you think your opinion is better than the doctors and scientists who studied these animals for years and years.

You could also say "in my opinion hot dogs are a healthy snake diet". But science tells us their bodies can't handle the nitrites and nitrates so it's not a good diet.

I don't know why you're so reluctant to believe facts.

You can build a house using your opinion on how the frame should be laid out, but engineers have spent years determining what is safest. Sure, your house might stand, but I wouldn't want to be in it in a hurricane.

My point is, what appears ok on the surface may not be ok internally. So until you have enough experience to back up your methods you can't possibly know if it's harming your snake internally.

I'm also not degrading you I'm simply explaining why your limited experience and knowledge are not accurate.

You clearly aren't open to learning and growing, that's fine. I'm glad I'm not your pet.

You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink... :rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

I don't feel as though I'm the only one who can post or have an opinion. It's NOT ABOUT OPINION. Years of science and research went into determinig what husbandry is best for the animals. Not opinion!!! I don't get why you think your opinion is better than the doctors and scientists who studied these animals for years and years.

You could also say "in my opinion hot dogs are a healthy snake diet". But science tells us their bodies can't handle the nitrites and nitrates so it's not a good diet.

I don't know why you're so reluctant to believe facts.

You can build a house using your opinion on how the frame should be laid out, but engineers have spent years determining what is safest. Sure, your house might stand, but I wouldn't want to be in it in a hurricane.

My point is, what appears ok on the surface may not be ok internally. So until you have enough experience to back up your methods you can't possibly know if it's harming your snake internally.

I'm also not degrading you I'm simply explaining why your limited experience and knowledge are not accurate.

You clearly aren't open to learning and growing, that's fine. I'm glad I'm not your pet.

You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink... :rolleyes:

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Wrong again, unfortunately, you have zero scientific papers or articles to back you up. Most of your information is from breeders and enthusiasts who tried something and it worked, that's not science.

Breeders are going to run hotter temps to get the BPs to gain weight faster so they can breed quicker as well as sell quicker. This is not true for your average BP keeper when long life and health is a priority.

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