New Ball Python Hasn't Eaten!

Hi everyone, I have recently adopted my first ball python after months of research and planning. I thought I would be prepared to handle their picky eating habits, but man, is it stressful! I am willing to try everything, even feeding live as a very last resort.

He came in the mail March 25, and I have offered 3 times (every 7 days) since then, but no luck. I've read many other threads and checked my temps (controlled by thermostat), humidity, etc., and he has plenty of hides and foliage and seems adjusted to his enclosure. I'm not handling except for a minute or two during enclosure clean up or to check his weight once a week. He is 165 grams, no signs of mites, respiratory infection, or possible shed. Breeder says he has eaten f/t small mice and rat pups for him, so I've been offering small mice, and will try rat pups next feeding day. Even sent pictures of the setup to the breeder and he said everything looked good and to keep trying.

I thaw in the fridge during the day, warm it up inside a ziplock bag and a bowl of warm tap water, then use the hairdryer trick and offer it around 11 pm or midnight, after all the lights have been turned off (except for one small lamp that is not near his enclosure so I can see). I do the zombie dance a little ways away from his face, but he just does a few tongue flicks, moves his neck into an S shape for a few seconds and then just goes into his hide, if he is out. After a while of trying I just place it outside his hide overnight to see if he might eat it while I'm not looking, but still nothing.

I know ball pythons are notoriously picky eaters, but as a first time ball python owner, it's very frustrating! I will take any advice to get him to eat. I love him dearly and it pains me to know he is refusing food. Any information will help! Am I doing something wrong?

What's the size of the enclosure?

He is in a 20 x 13 x 7 Sterilite tub.

I'm curious to what your temps and humidity are? Props to you for having a thermostat.

I'm going to give you some links to posts that I recommended for another person. I think the first one will help the most.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-hatchling-101 < A useful post, by Deborah.

https://mypetpython.com/the-ultimate...hooting-guide/ < Troubleshooting.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...ing-Guidelines < Keep in mind these are guidelines, not explicit rules.

https://www.reddit.com/r/snakes/comm..._from_live_to/ < F/T feeding methods.

Apologies for the double reply, but I am thinking it has to do with the way I am heating up the rodent? I was originally worried that I would not be able to get it warm enough, so I would run it under hot/warm tap water for about 20 min after taking it out of the fridge, and then use the hairdryer. 2 out of the 3 times I've tried the guts of the mouse have come out after a bit of wiggling with the tongs, could this be turning him off? If so, how can I properly warm up the rodent without this happening?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vivi

I'm curious to what your temps and humidity are? Props to you for having a thermostat.

I'm going to give you some links to posts that I recommended for another person. I think the first one will help the most.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-hatchling-101 < A useful post, by Deborah.

https://mypetpython.com/the-ultimate...hooting-guide/ < Troubleshooting.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...ing-Guidelines < Keep in mind these are guidelines, not explicit rules.

https://www.reddit.com/r/snakes/comm..._from_live_to/ < F/T feeding methods.

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Temps are 90 on the warm side, and 76-80 on the cool side. Humidity was about 70% the first week but I got it down to 65%, where it's at right now. I will check out the links! I have read through the first one before, so I'm hoping the others might give some more information that I can use.

Do you have a temp gun? Seeing as BPs have heat sensing pits the warmer the food (Not scalding hot, lifelike temp is I think 98.6 degrees F, and no it doesn't have to be exact) the better because it will appear and smell more life like. If a lukewarm, limp mouse is just wiggling around with his guts falling out the BP probably doesn't recognize it as food.

I don't have one currently, but one is being shipped to me right now, should be here next week. I am measuring temps in the enclosure with one of those probe thermometers. With everything going on in the world, it was hard to find a temp gun that wasn't grossly overpriced or would take months to ship. As I am reading the Reddit link, it seems like it might be an issue of me heating them up for too long.

Over-heating the rodents results in those unpleasant explosions. And if you are overheating in general, even if the explosion doesn't result, it's possible you've gotten the rodent overly-warmed to the point where the snake responds negatively to it. Just thaw them overnight in the refrigerator, either in a plastic bag or in room temp. water. When you are preparing for feeding, you can put them in warm (not hot) water for a few minutes - either directly into the water, or in a plastic bag, depending on whether your snake is OK with wet food or not - then give it a blast for just a few seconds with a hair dryer. It sounds like you're applying too much heat for too long.

Ah, thank you! I will try that warming method next feeding day. I just have a few more questions:

Could I try feeding again in just a few days instead of waiting a whole week? This is because of my concern about him not eating for too long, since it's been about a month.

Should I lower temps, like suggested in the first link that Vivi provided?

And lastly, should I try switching to a smaller enclosure/divide off his enclosure to make it smaller? Although, I am worried this might stress him out since he seems adjusted to the one he's currently in (in his hides all day, roams around at night for a little starting around 11 pm).

Thank you again, guys! All of this has been very helpful and I am re-evaluating all of my methods. Hopefully I can get my stubborn noodle to eat.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kelseyoleksak

Ah, thank you! I will try that warming method next feeding day. I just have a few more questions:

Could I try feeding again in just a few days instead of waiting a whole week? This is because of my concern about him not eating for too long, since it's been about a month.

Should I lower temps, like suggested in the first link that Vivi provided?

And lastly, should I try switching to a smaller enclosure/divide off his enclosure to make it smaller? Although, I am worried this might stress him out since he seems adjusted to the one he's currently in (in his hides all day, roams around at night for a little starting around 11 pm).

Thank you again, guys! All of this has been very helpful and I am re-evaluating all of my methods. Hopefully I can get my stubborn noodle to eat.

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No, trust me he will be fine without food for a week. Offer again in a week or a minimum of five days, offering any more often can be stressful.

I'd aim for the temps provided and aim for 50-60% humidity. 70% should be provided when in blue. Deborah has a lot of experience, I trust her advice.

Not sure on the last one.

Thank you so so much again! I will change everything needed and update next week when I offer for the fourth time.

I am glad I found this forum. You all seem very knowledgable and passionate about BPs. It's great knowing there's a helpful community out there that loves reptiles as much as I do!:snake:

Sounds good. :gj:

Do you have any pictures of your noodle?

Well, I'd question that he has adjusted to his enclosure, since he isn't eating. If you don't make any other changes, you could offer a meal in a 4-5 days - he is just a baby, and it's important to resolve this feeding strike before it settles into a really problematic situation. But if you do go ahead and make changes based on Deborah's post, which you really should follow to a T - then yes, wait a week.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?237595-My-ball-python-won-t-eat-My-BP-is-stressed-hatchling-101

And just to make sure - you are not handling him, correct? Is his enclosure in a room with low traffic/noise?

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Originally Posted by Caitlin

Well, I'd question that he has adjusted to his enclosure, since he isn't eating.

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That's a good point.

Yes! His name is Alfredo. This is the day he came home and also him approving of some artwork I made for him.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UkmEAAiHB7u821D6A

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cGYHhijorVX71KYk6

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Caitlin

Well, I'd question that he has adjusted to his enclosure, since he isn't eating. If you don't make any other changes, you could offer a meal in a 4-5 days - he is just a baby, and it's important to resolve this feeding strike before it settles into a really problematic situation. But if you do go ahead and make changes based on Deborah's post, which you really should follow to a T - then yes, wait a week.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?237595-My-ball-python-won-t-eat-My-BP-is-stressed-hatchling-101

And just to make sure - you are not handling him, correct? Is his enclosure in a room with low traffic/noise?

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Okay! I will offer in 5 days and if he does not take it I will completely change his enclosure according to Deborah's post and try again.

And yes, I have not been handling except to weigh him or do cleanup if necessary, and he is in my room where I am not in very often except if I am doing coursework or sleeping.

He's gorgeous. I love the albino gene in BPs. You're a great artist too and seem like a great keeper who cares about their animals. I'll be looking forward to seeing Alfredo's progress to see if you can get him eating again.

Welcome to the forum.

I attempted to feed again last night, but no luck. I warmed up a rat pup in the same room with lights off, and he was out and about looking like he was looking for food. When I offered it to him he showed some interest, and after a few minutes he struck, which got me excited because he's never struck before. He was watching it for a while and struck again, but in the end he just went back into his hide and stopped caring about it. I plan to switch over to Deb's method today, but unfortunately I don't have access to a different container because the ones I was looking at won't be shipped quickly enough. I'm hoping just dividing off about a third of his current enclosure will work.

If he continues to not eat f/t then you may have to try live.

I will be trying live next feeding day. I was trying to avoid it at all costs but I think I am out of options! :(

Have you tried decreasing the enclosure size?

I just finished decreasing the enclosure size! I used a sturdy piece of cardboard that fit snugly across the width of the tub and took away just over a third of the enclosure. Kept some of the foliage in for extra security. Also draped a towel over the sides to let less light in. I am going to leave him alone for a week then try live.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kelseyoleksak

I just finished decreasing the enclosure size! I used a sturdy piece of cardboard that fit snugly across the width of the tub and took away just over a third of the enclosure. Kept some of the foliage in for extra security. Also draped a towel over the sides to let less light in. I am going to leave him alone for a week then try live.

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Hang in there - I think the fact that he showed interest and struck at the prey last time is a good sign. Here's hoping your latest adjustments lead to a happy snake with a full tummy. Interesting that you'd mention draping a towel over the sides of the enclosure - I was just helping a friend with a baby snake who wouldn't eat, and the combination of a smaller enclosure plus draping a towel over the enclosure did the trick for this little guy.

Thats great to hear and gives me some hope! I feel terrible for potentially stressing him out with the changes to his home, but I know it had to be done! Fingers crossed he eats for me next week.

Why are you so concerned about feeding the animal live? Understand that his whole world has changed. He came from a rack system with perfect temps and humidity more than likely being fed live hopper mice or rat crawlers. He's now in a bigger environment, being handled every week for weight checks and more than likely has switched to having live prey to FT shoved in his face every 4-5 days.

It is IMPERATIVE that people copy the husbandry of the breeder as best as possible until the animal is consistently feeding and gaining weight. Also, you don't have to weigh the animal every week. You also should have nothing to spot clean if the animal isn't eating. Please do your best to leave it alone... That will go a long way.

If your husbandry is dialed in I wouldn't change anything. I know it's stressful when new arrivals don't eat but it's not as complicated as we make it sometimes. I've started half of my snakes in adult sized enclosures. As long as they have lots of hides and floor covering they'll be fine. I've had a few animals that came to me that had only eaten live. They all transitioned to f/t without me ever giving them live prey. The bottom line for me is the hunger ALWAYS wins in the end. I've NEVER seen a healthy animal starve itself to death when food was being offered.

My approach to stubborn feeders is pretty simple.

Make sure my temps are dialed in and the snake isn't sick.

No handling.

Offer food biweekly for 2-3 feedings. If the snake still refuses to eat space out the offerings to every 3 weeks. If the snake refuses twice at 3 week intervals I offer food once a month. If the snake is still refusing at this point I give them a small live feeder and start the process all over.

Most of the time they get with the program after 3-6 months but I did have a couple of BPs that took 8 and 12 month food breaks. That was bananas but they were perfectly healthy. That's also a big reason I don't keep BPs anymore. :)

Hey guys, thanks so much for all your help! He finally ate today!

I left his enclosure covered for an entire week and didn't even peep at him. Dropped a small live mouse in there about an hour ago and he took it with straight away! I feel like such an accomplished snake mom.

After I get a few consistent meals into him, I would like to switch him back over to f/t. Does anyone have any helpful links or tips I can do to get him started once the time comes?

Nice job!

I always recommend this link...

https://www.reddit.com/r/snakes/comm..._from_live_to/

Edit: You did supervise the feeding, correct?

Yes, the feeding was supervised. I would be too nervous to leave him alone with a live feeder! He did take it within a few seconds so it was not a problem at all, I was very surprised.

& thank you for the link!