Ball Python Possible Issue? Need help please

So I have been noticing my snake’s skin has been going white on the top of her rib cage, or I guess back. First it started near her head and now it’s down her back all the way about 9 days later now. She has been eating fine, temps range 95-90 right underneath the hottest part of the tank under the light and at night low 70’s. She has two water bowls on each corner of the tank. Humidity is between 55%-70% at times but mostly between 52-63 Please let me know if there is any issues I need to fix ASAP. Pics of the snake and tank are below.

https://ibb.co/PCwmqz2

https://ibb.co/dWBGBgy

https://ibb.co/WGFGQZV

What is the warmest temps INSIDE the tank, where the snake can make contact? (that high temp. ideally should not be much above 90*...95* is too hot)
How are you heating the tank? Is it thermostat-controlled?

And 70* is too low, even if it's just at night. You want the coolest temp. in the tank to be about 78-80*.
Are there at least 2 suitable hides (one on the cool side & one on the warm side of the tank)?

From what I can see in the photo, that whitened area on your snake's back looks like your snake is rubbing on something rough in the cage...(a close-up of the scales
would help). Snakes that are restless & wanting out can be caused by various things: too hot (wanting out), hunger (wanting to hunt), or wanting to breed. Snake
keepers have to play "detective" to find out which of these possibilities may apply in your situation. If I had to guess, I'd say your snake is up on those vines at night
& her back is rubbing against the screen (-?) top...welded wire tops can be very abrasive & you might need to fix that, if that's the case. I make my own screen tops,
& for snakes that are inclined to push on their lids, I use 2 layers: the abrasive welded wire (aka "hardware cloth") is the outer layer, while the inner layer is soft nylon
window screening, so that any rubbing doesn't do damage. If you aren't too handy, making a screen top (wood frame) is very easy & likely any "handyman" could do
it for you for very little cost, or maybe you could modify your existing top?

I put one thermostat in cool corner and another one direct under the main heat light (I have the end under). The screen is 4-5 inch above the vines so I don’t think it’s them but I will lower it down. I have had the snake for 5 months before this happend. The thermostat in the dark at night reads those lower temps so under the night light running which is a smaller one is maybe low 80’s high 70’s. I believe that the temperature changes and lowering the vibe will do it. Anyone else have anything to add?

Also would this help?
Zoomed in photos of her.


https://ibb.co/CMFpNJF

https://ibb.co/R33JzVs

Quote:

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Originally Posted by swaggypython510

I put one thermostat in cool corner and another one direct under the main heat light (I have the end under). The screen is 4-5 inch above the vines so I don’t think it’s them but I will lower it down. I have had the snake for 5 months before this happend. The thermostat in the dark at night reads those lower temps so under the night light running which is a smaller one is maybe low 80’s high 70’s. I believe that the temperature changes and lowering the vibe will do it. Anyone else have anything to add?

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I believe you're confusing thermoMETER with thermoSTAT. A thermoMETER only reads the temp while a thermoSTAT regulates the amount of heat the equipment produces. I don't see any thermoSTATS in the picture.

Unfortunately, those stick-on analog thermometers (the dial ones) are incredibly inaccurate as well, so don't rely on those, they can be off by as much as 15°.

Also, I see an incense burner by the enclosure. I hope you're not burning incense there. That smoke is incredibly bad for a snake.

Get some digital thermometers like accurite brand sells with probes for the cage to get a quick idea of what temps are and a temp gun to accurately judge them all over the setup. Those sticky ones are straight trash for accuracy and dangerous if your snake gets stuck to them. A thermostat is needed on every heat source to control the output and keep your temperature steady. Cage should be high 77-80 ambient temp all throughout and 88-90 degree hotspot for digestion. That heat lamp and aspen bedding make me think your humidity levels are probably far too low as well.

When I saw the pics I thought there is no way humidity levels are maintained well in that setup... glass tank, screen top, heat lamps, aspen, plus she looks a little crispy but it could just be an optical illusion from her skin condition. I do see condensation near the top so maybe you live in a naturally humid environment? But chances are your unreliable gauges are not telling a true story.

Moral of the story:
Thermostats!
Better temp & humidity gauges
Husbandry tweaks to substrate and environment
No smoke of any kind near your snake

I don’t burn incense it’s used to push stuff around in the tank when I can find her.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by swaggypython510

I don’t burn incense it’s used to push stuff around in the tank when I can find her.

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Ok, just making sure. I mean, you could use your hands, or a snake hook if you're afraid of being tagged. In the pic it's covered in incense ash and filthy.

What about the THERMOSTAT situation????

What’s a better way to control the humidity? I ordered everything else recommended on chewy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by swaggypython510

What’s a better way to control the humidity? I ordered everything else recommended on chewy.

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The best way is to be prepared BEFORE bringing an animal home....

Without knowing your humidity it's tough to tell you if it needs adjustment or not.

To Craiga's point, without knowing what your current humidity levels are, we don't know how much to bring you up to. You may be in the right range already, or you may need major improvements. You'll want to be in the 50%-60% range on average, with a bump to 70% while your snake is in her shed cycle.

IF you need a big fix to humidity, and want to continue using a glass tank, there are some workarounds. Changing to a substrate like EcoEarth will hold humidity much better than Aspen, which is a better substrate for lower humidity species who like to burrow (think hognose). You can layer a damp towel over 1/2 of your screened top, soak sphagnum moss and add it to your substrate, add a bowl of moistened moss under one of the heat lamps,...these are all just FYI. Don't do anything until you get accurate readings on the environment first.

Hi,

I can't help thinking it looks a lot like a retained shed from the pictures.

As long as it is a while since the snake had a meal I'd be tempted to make a humid bath ( usually a small rub with water around 85f and no deeper than half way up the snakes body with a rock or something in it that extends above the water level ) and after 20 minutes or so try rubbing the areas edge gently with your finger to see if anything lifts off.

When was the last time the snake shed and was it complete?


del

It definitely looks like retained shed. I find that when you’re in the 50% range for humidity it’s quite low. Not sufficient enough especially for when your snake is about to shed. I’d definitely recommend putting in a humidity box into your enclosure. I personally just use a damp towel and drape it over part of her hide and over some sticks so that she can go underneath it, but it also really boosts the humidity. Another way is to use a container with a hole at the top of the lid, add some damp sphagnum moss inside and your bp can sit in there which helps a lot with shed issues.

but I would try to wait a bit and see if it almost looks like it start to peel off. If it does, give your bp a bath or let it sit inside a warm, damp pillowcase for about 15 minutes. You wanna use these techniques only when you know for sure that it’s stuck shed. But I mean you can always take it to the vet for certainly and a clear answer as to what’s going on. Hope this helps.