Doing what you aren't supposed to do

So ya... I have a wooden enclosure and I still wanted to use a uth for belly heat and all I found was people saying its impossible or dangerous. I would like to chalenge that idea.So here is my setup currently.

I stuck the uth under the smooth side of a ceramic tile and added the plastic lifters to create an air gap between floor (laminate without glue) and the uth tile. Then I placed the thermostat probe on the tile with a little substrate over it and added my hide on top of it all.

I am aware its not recommended but...honestly, I have never heard of wood burning or plastic melting at 90 degrees ferenheit in 60% humidity so, I think mist people's worries are a little over zealous.

Its the safest trick I could think of to give my bp the benefit of both uth and che.

Ironically, my top lamps sits tightly into a wood hole coated with polyurethane and the dome hits 150 degrees so...if it can withstand that,
the uth should be fine.

Fir now I am closely monitoring it everyday with both ir gun and digital gages but it seems to be working great.

Am I crazy for doing this or does this make sens ?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...536c8e3ca5.jpg

Envoyé de mon MAR-LX3A en utilisant Tapatalk

Now what happens when the probe gets moved or peed on? Your tstat will essentially be useless and your heat will spike

Then there's the issue of the UTH itself getting wet.

I'm all for outside the box thinking, but I strongly advise new keepers to stick to the basic, tried and true methods.

You're definitely not the first to try that technique. Many of us probably tried it 20 years ago or more.
And thanks to others learning from their failures and sharing that info, we now know what works and what doesn't.

That doesn't mean we aren't still learning too. It just means we've been down that road and it didn't end well.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

Now what happens when the probe gets moved or peed on? Your tstat will essentially be useless and your heat will spike

Then there's the issue of the UTH itself getting wet.

I'm all for outside the box thinking, but I strongly advise new keepers to stick to the basic, tried and true methods.

You're definitely not the first to try that technique. Many of us probably tried it 20 years ago or more.
And thanks to others learning from their failures and sharing that info, we now know what works and what doesn't.

That doesn't mean we aren't still learning too. It just means we've been down that road and it didn't end well.

---

I doubt the uth can get wet since its under the tile so that's very unlikely. The pee and probe is my only worry and its a fair concern which is the reason I am monitoring it.

Envoyé de mon MAR-LX3A en utilisant Tapatalk

Also...from my limited but still valuable experience with cornsnakes, they usually do there duty outside there hide. But again, my experience is limited, I am ready to concede I might be wrong.

Envoyé de mon MAR-LX3A en utilisant Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mike Beaulieu

Also...from my limited but still valuable experience with cornsnakes, they usually do there duty outside there hide. But again, my experience is limited, I am ready to concede I might be wrong.

Envoyé de mon MAR-LX3A en utilisant Tapatalk

---

Both my BP's will go in there hide as often as not. Almost every time when they shed. So this tile is inside the cage? What about substrate getting under it or the snake working it's way under or moving it? BP's are great redecorators. Not knocking you just making sure all angles we considered. You mention the little tabs under it but I'd it attached to the floor in some way?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gunkle

Both my BP's will go in there hide as often as not. Almost every time when they shed. So this tile is inside the cage? What about substrate getting under it or the snake working it's way under or moving it? BP's are great redecorators. Not knocking you just making sure all angles we considered. You mention the little tabs under it but I'd it attached to the floor in some way?

---

Ya i see what you mean, i clean the substrate away daily, but even then, its a small amount. I didn't think about him moving it is going under because he is still a juvy. You are right though, down the line a che might be less hassle in the end! I am just testing it out.

it works now but, i don't think its a long term solution.

Envoyé de mon MAR-LX3A en utilisant Tapatalk

Plenty of people heat only from above. Put one of the hides under the che and the top of that can be the basking hot spot at night. I've seen mine on top of their hides at night before. I have the hot side hide under the RHP and they do fine.

Is your thermostat probe on top of the tile? Or is it adhered to the UTH itself under the tile?

If your probe is on top of the tile, then your UTH will either need to be set a LOT higher than 90 to get the tile surface to read 90, or you setting the UTH at 90 means the tile is still probably too cool for a hot spot.

I second just heating from above. Belly heat isn't really needed if you create proper temperatures in other ways.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WhompingWillow

Is your thermostat probe on top of the tile? Or is it adhered to the UTH itself under the tile?

If your probe is on top of the tile, then your UTH will either need to be set a LOT higher than 90 to get the tile surface to read 90, or you setting the UTH at 90 means the tile is still probably too cool for a hot spot.

I second just heating from above. Belly heat isn't really needed if you create proper temperatures in other ways.

---

It is on top for now and in deed i need to set it higher to get to 90 degrees. That's why i use my ir gun to test surface temps on top of the tile. But ya, you are right, i might switch to above heat only eventually.

Envoyé de mon MAR-LX3A en utilisant Tapatalk

BPs are bulldozers compared to corns. Water bowls get spilled, they pee in larger quantities than corns, and their humidity requirements are higher than corns. All ways for the UTH to get wet. That's a danger to the snake and a fire hazard.

You can try to reinvent the wheel if you want, but why not learn from other people's experience rather than put your animal at risk?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

BPs are bulldozers compared to corns. Water bowls get spilled, they pee in larger quantities than corns, and their humidity requirements are higher than corns. All ways for the UTH to get wet. That's a danger to the snake and a fire hazard.

You can try to reinvent the wheel if you want, but why not learn from other people's experience rather than put your animal at risk?

---

Pretty sure I didn't reject anyone's suggestions or comments. Just trying out things. No need to get jiggy.

The experiment has lasted a week now, and I am learning, and I am reading your comments, and I am considering all the options. I would never but my animal at risk. I work at home, I check the temps on that cage like 20 times a day. Don't assume I'm an idiot please.


On a side note. If I switch to double CHE's (1 for ambient and 1 for hotspot), where should I place the probes for these ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mike Beaulieu

Pretty sure I didn't reject anyone's suggestions or comments. Just trying out things. No need to get jiggy.

The experiment has lasted a week now, and I am learning, and I am reading your comments, and I am considering all the options. I would never but my animal at risk. I work at home, I check the temps on that cage like 20 times a day. Don't assume I'm an idiot please.


On a side note. If I switch to double CHE's (1 for ambient and 1 for hotspot), where should I place the probes for these ?

---

Not getting jiggy, not even sure what that means....

If you heat from above you can dangle the probes below the CHEs, a few inches above the substrate. Then use your temp gun and dial the temps in.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

Not getting jiggy, not even sure what that means....

If you heat from above you can dangle the probes below the CHEs, a few inches above the substrate. Then use your temp gun and dial the temps in.

---

Good idea. I am not sure what getting jiggy is either, no worries. [emoji23][emoji23]

Envoyé de mon MAR-LX3A en utilisant Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mike Beaulieu

Good idea. I am not sure what getting jiggy is either, no worries. [emoji23][emoji23]

Envoyé de mon MAR-LX3A en utilisant Tapatalk

---

In England getting jiggy is what two lovers do when things get steamy ... soooooo


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zincubus

In England getting jiggy is what two lovers do when things get steamy ... soooooo


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

---

Good thing I ain't an Englishman ! Lol[emoji39]

Envoyé de mon MAR-LX3A en utilisant Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zincubus

In England getting jiggy is what two lovers do when things get steamy ... soooooo


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

---

Thanks, Zincubus!! Hahahaha, now I know.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mike Beaulieu

Good thing I ain't an Englishman ! Lol[emoji39]

Envoyé de mon MAR-LX3A en utilisant Tapatalk

---

My fiance is gonna be sooooo mad!!! Hahahahaha!!!
I feel like I should buy you dinner or something!!! Hahahaha!!! :rofl:

Ok so here is an update. This morning I switched to a che. And I suspended the thermostat probe on the hot side.

Is it normal in a 37x18x12 high, wood enclose, that a single 150w che can't get to 90 degrees ?

The top of my hide has a surface
heat of 94 but the probe temp near the floor is around 80.

Am I doing it wrong or is 2 che needed ?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0d35184fd0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...84c486725d.jpg

Envoyé de mon MAR-LX3A en utilisant Tapatalk

Probe from thermostat is really giving you an ambient temperature. Same with a thermometer probe. You really need an inferred temp gun to get surface temps. It's one of those items that's highly recommended and maybe you have you already? If you do check your temps and see what that gives.

I just gave up on the wooden enclosure. I gave it back to Steve my beardy.

I set up my 60 gallon tank for the BP instead. Put the uth under with the probe on the backside. Tested the surface temp with my heat gun to make it 88 to 90 degrees and added my 150w che on top of the hot side. The che is not regulated for now since its a 24" tall tank i doubt there is any need to regulate it.

Right off the bat, its working alot better then my wooden enclosure was.

Any ideas for improvement?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d178bb28bd.jpg

Envoyé de mon MAR-LX3A en utilisant Tapatalk

Looks pretty bright in there at the moment...might want to cover the sides & back for privacy (& while you're at it, you can insulate them too, with all sorts of things-
also can insulate most of the bottom but leave "breathing room" for UTH). FYI, I'm one of the "weirdo's" around here that prefers glass tanks, lol...but there's more
than just one way to do things, IMO.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Looks pretty bright in there at the moment...might want to cover the sides & back for privacy (& while you're at it, you can insulate them too, with all sorts of things-
also can insulate most of the bottom but leave "breathing room" for UTH). FYI, I'm one of the "weirdo's" around here that prefers glass tanks, lol...but there's more
than just one way to do things, IMO.

---

Haha. Well i did use the flash so its really bright on the pic!

I like the insulation idea, altough its not very aesthetic. It would make the ambient heating more efficient.

If i had more time I could make a 3d foam background but i would need like 3 days with smoothy out of his cage so... Hard to do. I have done those for bioactives before.

What do you use to cover the glass for privacy ? Like aquarium paper ?

Envoyé de mon MAR-LX3A en utilisant Tapatalk

I like to put up scenery first (outside the glass of course), then you can insulate behind that. Many things work, poster boards (they come in white or black, with foam
core), cork (rolled or tiles), styro-foam sheets, brown corrugated, even self-stick carpet tiles...many things you can use that look decent- even paneling cut to fit. When
you insulate their cage, it also helps reduce bass vibrations from things you might be doing (like music or movies, etc).