Ball python not eating

Hey

I bought my ball python September 26 2019, her papers said she was eating 2 f/t fuzzies every week. She didn't eat the week after I brought her home, but that was understandable. Ever since then she has ate the 2 f/t fuzzies. For the past 3 weeks she has not eaten at all. The first two weeks she would come out and act like she wanted them, but never took them. I even tried leaving it in her cage and walked away, but never took them. I went and bought a brand new pack, in case the other pack was a bad batch. It is the same brand I had been buying, but
this time when I tried to feed her she acts scared of it. She jumps back and tries to hide from it. I have made sure everything is right with her setup and when I feed her I do it in low lighting or darkness. I even tried making the mouse look alive by moving it around the cage. Other than the feeding issue she acts like her normal self. I can still handle her and she doesn't act like she is stressed. She is not showing signs of pre shed and she has only shed for me once since I had her. I just want to see if their is anything I could do before I take her to the vet to be checked out.

Please provide the following information. It will help us determine what might be going on.

1. Age and weight of BP.

2. Tank - size, temps, hides, etc.

3. How often are you offering food?

4. Rat fuzzies or mouse fuzzies?

5. How are you defrosting the prey items?

6. How are you offering the prey items?

7. How often are you handling?

BP's are known for going off feed in the winter months, but to ensure that is what is going on, we need to know more.

I assume you mean you're feeding mouse fuzzies? & if so, that's probably too small for her. Most find that mouse hoppers are a more appropriate size, but as dakski
said, you didn't give us quite enough information to accurately answer your question. See also the feeding chart for size of snake: size of prey recommended.

Also be aware that snakes are quite stoic...you cannot easily judge their actual stress level visually, so it's time to revisit your husbandry on all points (temps. inside the
enclosure where the snake is, not just what a probe reads underneath, etc.).

1. She is 6 months old 125 grams
2. 10 gallon, she has two hides, it is showing 80 in the dial thermostat.
3. Every saturday
4. Mouse fuzzies
5. I use warm water submerge for 20 minutes and I feel it to make sure it dont feel cold anywhere before I feed her
6. I use a pair of feeder tongs and dangle it making it move.
7. Once a week

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tattoobeauty90

1. She is 6 months old 125 grams
2. 10 gallon, she has two hides, it is showing 80 in the dial thermostat.
3. Every saturday
4. Mouse fuzzies
5. I use warm water submerge for 20 minutes and I feel it to make sure it dont feel cold anywhere before I feed her
6. I use a pair of feeder tongs and dangle it making it move.
7. Once a week

---

What are you using to check the warm hide surface temps ??


PS

Ignore what the thermostat says ..

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Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tattoobeauty90

1. She is 6 months old 125 grams

At that age and size, she should not be fasting.

2. 10 gallon, she has two hides, it is showing 80 in the dial thermostat.

​1. Are the hides identical and snug?

2. Do you have a temp gun/IR temp gun? If not, get one now. You can get cheap at home depot, etc. You need to know the ground temps.

3. What heating elements do you have running and what thermostat are you using?

3. Every saturday

​That's probably to much normally, but she needs to eat, so I would work on getting temps and humidity dialed in - again using regulated heating elements and an IR Temp Gun to get proper ground temps.

Hot side temps should be 88-90F. Ambient temps should be 81-84F. Cool side should be 78-80F. Hard to do in a 10G, but do your best.

Humidity should be 50-65%.

4. Mouse fuzzies

Too small. If she's used to mice, go to a small mouse/weaned mouse - 10-15G to start.

5. I use warm water submerge for 20 minutes and I feel it to make sure it dont feel cold anywhere before I feed her

See below for proper defrosting techniques. 20 minutes in warm water for a small prey item can cook it. You also want it hot when you offer, but not before.

6. I use a pair of feeder tongs and dangle it making it move.

That's fine, but don't get in her face, remove her hide, etc. If she doesn't take it quickly, you can leave up to overnight.

7. Once a week

---

I wouldn't handle until she's eaten 3 meals straight again.





This is my step by step list on defrosting F/T rodents.

Others may do it differently and that's fine. This how I do it and it works for me.


STEPS FOR DEFROSTING F/T RODENTS/PREY

1. Put prey item(s) into appropriate size plastic bag (1 for each). I use Quart size ziplock bags up to a medium rat. NOTE: Bags are optional. Some people just throw the prey in the water. I like the bags, but you have to squeeze the air out of them.

2. Fill the container/storage box 3/4 of the way with room temp to slightly warm water. If you have a temp gun (which you should, so if you don't, get one), make sure the water is not hotter than 85-90F, or there about.

3. Put F/T prey item(s) in water. Cover (optional) and leave for an hour +/-. Less if smaller prey and longer if bigger prey (however longer does not hurt smaller prey).

4. After an hour, rotate/flip prey. If in plastic bags, they often will stay on whatever side you put them in on. So if mouse is on left side, turn to right side, etc.

5. Leave for another hour +/- for a TOTAL of about 2 hours (up to medium sized rat - longer if bigger prey - Large rats, for example).

6. Check that prey is defrosted totally through. Squeeze at different sections of the preys body. Should be cool/room temp to touch, but be soft with no cold spots. If hard (except for bone), in abdomen, for example, or cold, put back in water until room temp and soft.

7. Take prey out of the container/storage box and put aside. THEN FOLLOW STEPS 8-11 OR STEP 12

8. Fill container with hot water from tap. If using temp gun, water temp should be 110-130F, not more.

9. Drop prey item into water for 30 seconds +/-. If multiple prey items, do one at a time. You want each item hot when you offer.

10. Remove (if hot water, with tongs).

11. Dry as best as you can, and is quickly as you can, with paper towels. I dry with paper towels while I am walking from the bathroom where I defrost to the snake tanks. I kind of wrap the prey item up in them. It's ten feet, so by the time I get to the tanks, the prey is drier, but still warm.

12. If not using hot water, use a hairdryer to heat rat so it entices snake

13. Open tank and offer ASAP on tongs. Wiggle gently to make it appear alive.

2. 1 they are snug and very similar.
2 I dont but it is my top priority when I get paid tomorrow
3 I have a heating pad and thermostat/hygrometer dial

Thank you for your help I'm going to get the infrared scanner and see what it reads

Quote:

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I have a heating pad and thermostat/hygrometer dial

---

That is called a THERMOMETER

A thermometer READS the temperatures

A thermostat CONTROLS the temperatures.

Dial thermometer are not accurate and can give you a false sense of security and a thermostat is a MUST.

Lots of research to do and the issue is 100% husbandry related.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tattoobeauty90

2. 1 they are snug and very similar.
2 I dont but it is my top priority when I get paid tomorrow
3 I have a heating pad and thermostat/hygrometer dial

Thank you for your help I'm going to get the infrared scanner and see what it reads

---

One of these ??https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...97c90fe925.jpg


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I have found warming (drying) the thawed mouse with a hair dryer IN THE SAME ROOM works wonders. I followed the above instructions listed exactly and my girl eats every time. Note: when I hold the mouse in a paper towel, I often get a little blood seepage. This lets me know the mouse is completely thawed. Using the hair dryer in the same room, seems to stimulate my snake's appetite. I use the tongs and have the mouse do a little zombie dance across the tank and Lilia strikes and constricts around it almost within seconds. Also, I do feed her later at night in a room with very little light.

Also, I know I was offering food too often at first. If she didn't eat one night...I'd offer it again the next night. This was incorrect and I stopped doing that. But, since her first meal, she hasn't refused to eat. :snake:

My uncle had a digital thermometer that I could use and her warm side is showing 80.4 F and cool side is 79.15 F. Her humidity is always between 50 and 60 unless she is shedding and I bumb it to 70 75.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tattoobeauty90

...
4. Mouse fuzzies
5. I use warm water submerge for 20 minutes and I feel it to make sure it dont feel cold anywhere before I feed her...

---

Not only should the prey not be cold, but you need to actually WARM it up so it seems life-like to a BP, because BPs are one of the kinds of snakes that relies on their
heat-sensing pits to identify their prey.

You were apparently lucky the first few times you fed her...her hunger won out, but for best results I'd recommend immersing prey in very warm water briefly, but only
AFTER thawing completely in cold water, before offering...& many here take an additional step of using a blow-dryer immediately before offering the prey to their BPs.

If you do this, I believe your problem will be solved. ;)

Yes it is similar.

I am gonna try the thawing instructions you gave me. When I was done checking the temperatures I actually noticed that her underneath heating pad had came loose. So I'm gonna try to tape it back and see how the temperature on her heated side measures after that.

The warm hide surface temps should be nearer 90F ...


Also those plastic stick on dial thermometers are useless !!

Try and get a digital thermometer off eBay - only about £2 or : 3 dollars
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a0703241f.jpeg

Or a ten quid digital temp gun off eBay .https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...293dc7637b.jpg


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tattoobeauty90

My uncle had a digital thermometer that I could use and her warm side is showing 80.4 F and cool side is 79.15 F. Her humidity is always between 50 and 60 unless she is shedding and I bumb it to 70 75.

---

Your snake is never gonna eat if you do not provide proper husbandry and 80.4 on warm side is not proper husbandry, and considering the temps it's actually better that it does not eat, eating with low temperatures that do not facilitate digestion is only gonna lead to regurgitation.

And by the rest I will still assume that you do not have a thermostat which that will lead to burn and fire hazard.

Again you still have a lot of research to do because obviously research have not been done.

Husbandry should be your first priority feeding the second, if the first one is not met the second will not occur.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

The warm hide surface temps should be nearer 90F ...


Also those plastic stick on dial thermometers are useless !!

Try and get a digital thermometer off eBay - only about £2 or : 3 dollars
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a0703241f.jpeg

Or a ten quid digital temp gun off eBay .https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...293dc7637b.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

---

I had plan on getting the infrared one when I got paid. But I will definitely check into the digital.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dakski

I wouldn't handle until she's eaten 3 meals straight again.






This is my step by step list on defrosting F/T rodents.

Others may do it differently and that's fine. This how I do it and it works for me.


STEPS FOR DEFROSTING F/T RODENTS/PREY

1. Put prey item(s) into appropriate size plastic bag (1 for each). I use Quart size ziplock bags up to a medium rat. NOTE: Bags are optional. Some people just throw the prey in the water. I like the bags, but you have to squeeze the air out of them.

2. Fill the container/storage box 3/4 of the way with room temp to slightly warm water. If you have a temp gun (which you should, so if you don't, get one), make sure the water is not hotter than 85-90F, or there about.

3. Put F/T prey item(s) in water. Cover (optional) and leave for an hour +/-. Less if smaller prey and longer if bigger prey (however longer does not hurt smaller prey).

4. After an hour, rotate/flip prey. If in plastic bags, they often will stay on whatever side you put them in on. So if mouse is on left side, turn to right side, etc.

5. Leave for another hour +/- for a TOTAL of about 2 hours (up to medium sized rat - longer if bigger prey - Large rats, for example).

6. Check that prey is defrosted totally through. Squeeze at different sections of the preys body. Should be cool/room temp to touch, but be soft with no cold spots. If hard (except for bone), in abdomen, for example, or cold, put back in water until room temp and soft.

7. Take prey out of the container/storage box and put aside. THEN FOLLOW STEPS 8-11 OR STEP 12

8. Fill container with hot water from tap. If using temp gun, water temp should be 110-130F, not more.

9. Drop prey item into water for 30 seconds +/-. If multiple prey items, do one at a time. You want each item hot when you offer.

10. Remove (if hot water, with tongs).

11. Dry as best as you can, and is quickly as you can, with paper towels. I dry with paper towels while I am walking from the bathroom where I defrost to the snake tanks. I kind of wrap the prey item up in them. It's ten feet, so by the time I get to the tanks, the prey is drier, but still warm.

12. If not using hot water, use a hairdryer to heat rat so it entices snake

13. Open tank and offer ASAP on tongs. Wiggle gently to make it appear alive.

---

My uncle gave me a digital thermometer to use to check it. when I was testing I found out the heating pad had come off the bottom. I put it back on with tape and let it sit for a bit. The warm side has went from 80.4 to 88.3 so it's going up. I'm gonna give her a couple of days before I try to feed her again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tattoobeauty90

My uncle gave me a digital thermometer to use to check it. when I was testing I found out the heating pad had come off the bottom. I put it back on with tape and let it sit for a bit. The warm side has went from 80.4 to 88.3 so it's going up. I'm gonna give her a couple of days before I try to feed her again.

---

Digital thermometer or IR temp gun? The latter is what you really need to know ground temps.

I would unplug the heat pad unless you have it regulated by thermostat. Too hot is worse than too cool.

Over 92-93F, which a heat pad, unregulated will get too in no time, can start causing problems for your snake. Even a little hotter = neurological damage. A little hotter than that and she dies.

People on here have tried to gently warn you, and even some not so gently. You keep saying you are doing X, but we are telling you need to do Y, Z, A, and B.

Your snake = your responsibility.

I want you to understand this is life or death for you snake. Not just heat wise, but if she doesn't start eating for you soon, she won't make it either. As stated earlier, she will NOT eat for you until conditions are correct.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dakski

Digital thermometer or IR temp gun? The latter is what you really need to know ground temps.

I would unplug the heat pad unless you have it regulated by thermostat. Too hot is worse than too cool.

Over 92-93F, which a heat pad, unregulated will get too in no time, can start causing problems for your snake. Even a little hotter = neurological damage. A little hotter than that and she dies.

People on here have tried to gently warn you, and even some not so gently. You keep saying you are doing X, but we are telling you need to do Y, Z, A, and B.

Your snake = your responsibility.

I want you to understand this is life or death for you snake. Not just heat wise, but if she doesn't start eating for you soon, she won't make it either. As stated earlier, she will NOT eat for you until conditions are correct.

---

It was a digital thermometer because that's all he had and I didn't have any money until I got paid today. I purchased a infared thermometer and a temperature control unit. I understand it sounded like I was not listening. It is just that I had no way to purchase anything because I had no money. So I was trying to do what I could.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tattoobeauty90

It was a digital thermometer because that's all he had and I didn't have any money until I got paid today. I purchased a infared thermometer and a temperature control unit. I understand it sounded like I was not listening. It is just that I had no way to purchase anything because I had no money. So I was trying to do what I could.

---

I just wanted to mention that this is a good learning experience. Next time please have all the proper equipment and enclosure up and running before bringing an animal home.

Also, it's important to mention it's our responsibility as pet keepers to care for them properly. That means having money to provide what they need. Equipment fails, accidents happen, emergency vet visits happen. So please save up some money for emergencies as well.

Just something to think about moving forward. We owe it to our animals to properly care for them and to be prepared.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dakski

Digital thermometer or IR temp gun? The latter is what you really need to know ground temps.

I would unplug the heat pad unless you have it regulated by thermostat. Too hot is worse than too cool.

Over 92-93F, which a heat pad, unregulated will get too in no time, can start causing problems for your snake. Even a little hotter = neurological damage. A little hotter than that and she dies.

People on here have tried to gently warn you, and even some not so gently. You keep saying you are doing X, but we are telling you need to do Y, Z, A, and B.

Your snake = your responsibility.

I want you to understand this is life or death for you snake. Not just heat wise, but if she doesn't start eating for you soon, she won't make it either. As stated earlier, she will NOT eat for you until conditions are correct.

---

I went home and the heating pad had fallen off again. When I tested it with the infared gun it said that the temperature was 67-70 °f (it kept jumping around). The digital thermometer read that it was 93°f. I went and got a new heating pad. I put it on the side instead of underneath, in my research it told me I could do either or. I let it sit for a couple hours. Now the infared shows 70° to 80°f and the digital thermometer is showing 73.3 °f

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

I just wanted to mention that this is a good learning experience. Next time please have all the proper equipment and enclosure up and running before bringing an animal home.

Also, it's important to mention it's our responsibility as pet keepers to care for them properly. That means having money to provide what they need. Equipment fails, accidents happen, emergency vet visits happen. So please save up some money for emergencies as well.

Just something to think about moving forward. We owe it to our animals to properly care for them and to be prepared.

---

Believe me it is a learning situation I did my research and I still did something wrong. I normally do have money put up, but Christmas has got me broke. 😥

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tattoobeauty90

I went home and the heating pad had fallen off again. When I tested it with the infared gun it said that the temperature was 67-70 °f (it kept jumping around). The digital thermometer read that it was 93°f. I went and got a new heating pad. I put it on the side instead of underneath, in my research it told me I could do either or. I let it sit for a couple hours. Now the infared shows 70° to 80°f and the digital thermometer is showing 73.3 °f

---

There is no point putting a UTH on the side the heat will just radiate forwards then upwards .... the UTH has to be underneath .

You should be able to tape the mat on easily enough ( only use tape OUTSIDE of vivs / tanks .)

Maybe even hot-glue the mat in place.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

There is no point putting a UTH on the side the heat will just radiate forwards then upwards .... the UTH has to be underneath .

You should be able to tape the mat on easily enough ( only use tape OUTSIDE of vivs / tanks .)

Maybe even hot-glue the mat in place.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Agreed. Putting it on the side is unfortunately a waste of energy and heat.
The heat mat is there to create a hot spot, not for ambient temps. So putting it on the side of the enclosure will only heat the glass and a few inches in front of it.

Your UTH (Under Tank Heater) should be on the bottom.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

There is no point putting a UTH on the side the heat will just radiate forwards then upwards .... the UTH has to be underneath .

You should be able to tape the mat on easily enough ( only use tape OUTSIDE of vivs / tanks .)

Maybe even hot-glue the mat in place.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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The new heating mat is sticking fine and is up under it, but the must it has heated up is 79 °f. I talked to the lady at my local petsmart, who actually owns a ball python, she suggested getting a heat lamp and putting a heat emitter. So I done that just waiting to see if it makes the temp go higher. I do have it on the thermostat so it dont get to hot.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tattoobeauty90

The new heating mat is sticking fine and is up under it, but the must it has heated up is 79 °f. I talked to the lady at my local petsmart, who actually owns a ball python, she suggested getting a heat lamp and putting a heat emitter. So I done that just waiting to see if it makes the temp go higher. I do have it on the thermostat so it dont get to hot.

---

Sounds promising !


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There is a learning curve when you get our first BP and so much information out there (some of which contradicts others). It sounds like you are taking good steps to getting the temp right. Don't be put off by people saying your not doing enough, we were all beginners at one time too (I think I still am even though my collection includes 7 BP now)

-side note IDK where you live but if your tank is near a window or an AC vent or if you keep your place cold it can make it a lot harder to get your temp and humidity right.

I second what a few have said about thawing and heating- thaw in cold water, in the fridge or on the counter (for a fuzzie or a hopper it wont take long), and then submerge in warm water for a few min or use a hair dryer (I personally love the hair dryer method, my snakes come out of their hides when they hear me start).

-Don't take your BP out of her enclosure (for a while this was suggested and now people are tending to agree that it can just add stress) I don't know if you do this but just incase.

-Feed in the evening with lights low.

-If you are trying to feed hopper you may need to go back down a size as she may be too weak from not eating for an extended time.

-If you get temps right and she still is not eating or not eating regularly you might need to move to live- you can usually find suppliers on FB or craigslist.


Keep us in the loop on how things are going.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

Sounds promising !


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So with the heat mat and the heat emitter her temp on her warm side is finally high. I have the thermostat to shut off at 90°. I didn't try to feed her at all yesterday to make sure she warmed up. I fed her tonight using the thaw instructions. She finally ate it was the last two mouse fuzzies I had. I have small mouse for her for her next feeding. Thank you all for your help I have really learned alot.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kira8p

There is a learning curve when you get our first BP and so much information out there (some of which contradicts others). It sounds like you are taking good steps to getting the temp right. Don't be put off by people saying your not doing enough, we were all beginners at one time too (I think I still am even though my collection includes 7 BP now)

-side note IDK where you live but if your tank is near a window or an AC vent or if you keep your place cold it can make it a lot harder to get your temp and humidity right.

I second what a few have said about thawing and heating- thaw in cold water, in the fridge or on the counter (for a fuzzie or a hopper it wont take long), and then submerge in warm water for a few min or use a hair dryer (I personally love the hair dryer method, my snakes come out of their hides when they hear me start).

-Don't take your BP out of her enclosure (for a while this was suggested and now people are tending to agree that it can just add stress) I don't know if you do this but just incase.

-Feed in the evening with lights low.

-If you are trying to feed hopper you may need to go back down a size as she may be too weak from not eating for an extended time.

-If you get temps right and she still is not eating or not eating regularly you might need to move to live- you can usually find suppliers on FB or craigslist.


Keep us in the loop on how things are going.

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Tha I you so much for the kind words. Oh no I never handle her after a feeding I wait 48 hours after she eats. I fed her the last fuzzies mice I had.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tattoobeauty90

So with the heat mat and the heat emitter her temp on her warm side is finally high. I have the thermostat to shut off at 90°. I didn't try to feed her at all yesterday to make sure she warmed up. I fed her tonight using the thaw instructions. She finally ate it was the last two mouse fuzzies I had. I have small mouse for her for her next feeding. Thank you all for your help I have really learned alot.

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Sounds like you’ll soon be all fine and dandy ... just one last thing though .. you mentioned you set the thermostat to 90F .... remember that’s just a rough guide and really you can discount it for all intents and purposes.

Use a ‘probed’ digital thermometer or even better a digital temp gun for those vital surface temps on the warm side and under the warm hide ..


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As said above, don't just trust the temp on the thermostat. I have the thermostat probe sandwiched between the glass and the UTH under the tank. On my hot side the temp stays on 95 degrees to keep the glass surface at 89 degrees. On my cool side the thermostat stays on 80 degrees and keeps the tank surface at 79 degrees. Those are not always accurate, that is why the temp gun is important.