Feel we are not making progress...

So I got a ball python hatchling from a reputable breeder maybe 5 weeks ago.
The hatchling is about 3 months old now, 120-ish grams, feeding aggressively on FT rat fuzzies. Good eater. Humidity and temps good.

He was a jerk from the beginning, very tense, nervous. Watches me like a hawk. Struck at me even when changing water/spot cleaning. Sleeps under hides in strike position. As long as I open the cage, watches me intently. He comes out and explores every night though, he seems happy and content in his cage, so long as I'm not bothering him.

He peed/pooped on me while handling once. He struck at me the other day while I was changing his water, drew blood. When i'm handling him, if he gets close to anything- even inanimate objects- he'll strike.

I'm trying to handle him using the blanket method, at first he would always ball up, but now he'll explore around and tongue flick, but he freaks out easily.

Will he ever just chill the heck out? I have 2 other balls who were not like this. I hate that I'm nervous even to change his water.

What type of enclosure is he in?

It's an hatchling you were lucky with the other 2 it's actually a pretty common thing to have a defensive hatchling and it usually disappear around 250 to 500 grams granted the husbandry is optimum, the stress is limited and the food is adequate.

It's about patience and realistic expectations.

He's in a 37 qt tub with lots of stimulation and hides.

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Originally Posted by siwueofk

He's in a 37 qt tub with lots of stimulation and hides.

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Put him in a 6 quarts tub 12 at the most and limit your handling.

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Originally Posted by siwueofk

He's in a 37 qt tub with lots of stimulation and hides.

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Way too big. Even when I keep them in appropriate sized tubs some can be nippy. If you bought him from a reputable breeder then he was in a rack and is more than likely stressed to the max. Not surprised at his behavior.. Follow debs advice and downsize his enclosure.

I just have him in one of these...
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...s/-/A-51872701https://www.target.com/p/sterilite-3...s/-/A-51872701

I'm not sure if I can fit 2 hides and a water bowl in a 12 qt tub though... Cause I keep my hognose in a 12 qt, it's quite small.

I just realized I don't have a heating pad small enough for a 12 qt tub, so that would be an additional $15-ish dollars plus $7-ish dollars to buy the tub. If I kept him in his current enclosure, would he eventually chill out? Or do you guys strongly recommend I make the investment.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by siwueofk

I just have him in one of these...
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...s/-/A-51872701https://www.target.com/p/sterilite-3...s/-/A-51872701

I'm not sure if I can fit 2 hides and a water bowl in a 12 qt tub though... Cause I keep my hognose in a 12 qt, it's quite small.

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2 hides fit in a 12
quarts, your hides need to be small and tight, even if only one fits if it is the right hide it will work.

The goal is security which means tight quarter that are very cluttered.

12 quarts with 2 hides that fits a BP up to 300 grams and a water dish, simple, secured, and cluttered.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1fcebb0afc.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by siwueofk

So I got a ball python hatchling from a reputable breeder maybe 5 weeks ago.
The hatchling is about 3 months old now, 120-ish grams, feeding aggressively on FT rat fuzzies. Good eater. Humidity and temps good.

He was a jerk from the beginning, very tense, nervous. Watches me like a hawk. Struck at me even when changing water/spot cleaning. Sleeps under hides in strike position. As long as I open the cage, watches me intently. He comes out and explores every night though, he seems happy and content in his cage, so long as I'm not bothering him.

He peed/pooped on me while handling once. He struck at me the other day while I was changing his water, drew blood. When i'm handling him, if he gets close to anything- even inanimate objects- he'll strike.

I'm trying to handle him using the blanket method, at first he would always ball up, but now he'll explore around and tongue flick, but he freaks out easily.

Will he ever just chill the heck out? I have 2 other balls who were not like this. I hate that I'm nervous even to change his water.

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To him (to his instincts), you're a giant & likely a predator...of COURSE he's afraid & defensive (& NOT a "jerk"). And a snake that is kept in a small enclosure most of the
time will take some time before the "outside world" becomes less scary. You'd be the same way if you were kept in one room, then suddenly allowed out. Nearly all snakes
calm down, but all are individuals, just like us & just like other pets...the more patience you have & the more experience he gets, the better he'll be. But since he's young,
you first need to concentrate mostly on his eating & growth...handling is not a priority, but his health is. Be happy he's an aggressive feeder...in fact, I typically prefer the
hatchlings that bite...'cause it's easier to pacify them with meals, lol. It's no fun when snakes refuse to eat.

To avoid bites when you reach in to change the water bowl or spot-clean, just block his view by keeping a piece of cardboard (or a ping-pong paddle works great) between
him & what you're doing. Snakes naturally feel afraid (from predators) when held out in the open, & safer when cuddled next to us, or sheltered by something else. Don't
know why you're nervous...but it's normal for snakes to be afraid of anything that approaches him, & afraid of unknowns. He has no forum to consult with as you do. ;)
And remember that snakes do NOT recognize you visually...they're better at scent & touch cues. If you use scent & touch cues to identify yourself whenever you approach
him, in time he'll learn that your approach is not to be feared. Try to see this from his point of view.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by siwueofk

I just realized I don't have a heating pad small enough for a 12 qt tub, so that would be an additional $15-ish dollars plus $7-ish dollars to buy the tub. If I kept him in his current enclosure, would he eventually chill out? Or do you guys strongly recommend I make the investment.

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$22.00 to put the snake in an environment where he will be better off? If you want the snake to stay stressed out and tag at you when you go in his tub then keep doing what you are doing. I just don’t think 22 dollars is a lot to ask when you more than likely invested hundreds of dollars in the animal from a reputable breeder.

Is it a stand alone tub? If so you are not required to place the entire UTH under the tub... that’s saves you your $15 heat pad purchase. Just place the tub such that the UTH covers the area you need heated.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fdc5caec69.jpg

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Originally Posted by Moose84

$22.00 to put the snake in an environment where he will be better off? If you want the snake to stay stressed out and tag at you when you go in his tub then keep doing what you are doing. I just don’t think 22 dollars is a lot to ask when you more than likely invested hundreds of dollars in the animal from a reputable breeder.

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Well there's also the issue of not being wasteful. I'm done with getting snakes, so afterwards I would have no uses for them.

Use the tub to put supplies in maybe? Sounds like you are looking for every reason not to move the animal and that is your right. But don’t blame the animal when it continues to act accordingly. Not his fault.

Look, your snake is acting like a typical baby ball python: hiding during the day, active at night, eating, etc. It's just defensive because in its world you are a great big Godzilla monster that will gobble it up, and a few weeks of handling isn't going to overcome those instincts. So, here are some tips on how I get my babies to settle, and not just ball pythons, but dwarf boas and BRB's, both of which are well known for biting as neonates.

When I pick them up I try to distract them with one hand, moving it slowly but just out of strike range, while sneaking around behind with the other. Get your fingers underneath it and pick it up. If they do end up striking, accept that you're going to bleed and just pick it up.

Always handle it gently and support it from underneath without being restrictive. You want to make it feel like it's not in danger of falling, but without being "grabby".

If it balls up in your hand you can gently cup your hands together to make a "cave" and let it peek out through your fingers.

Only put them away when they are relaxed, and never immediately after they strike.

One trick I used was to make a fist and then put my hand down into the tub so the back of my hand faced the snake. Then I would just let them go to town striking at me. It doesn't hurt and eventually they give up because you don't go away when they strike; you only remove your hand when they quit.

I like to keep the initial handling sessions short, and once the snake relaxes or starts to move around, I reward it by returning it to its home. They need to learn that striking does not get them what they want, which is to be left alone.

Finally, watch your shadow. I've noticed that when I'm backlit my snakes are a lot more defensive.

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Originally Posted by siwueofk

I'm done with getting snakes

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That’s a rather strange comment from a snake keeper we’re usually straining at the leash to get the NEXT one ..

For my part I’d cram some fake silk /plastic leaves /branches in there !!


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

That’s a rather strange comment from a snake keeper we’re usually straining at the leash to get the NEXT one ..

For my part I’d cram some fake silk /plastic leaves /branches in there !!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Uh. Ok. I've literally never seen your user name before ever.

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Originally Posted by siwueofk

Uh. Ok. I've literally never seen your user name before ever.

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Not sure how that’s relevant but no matter ..

So what did you mean by ‘ I’m done with snakes ‘ ?

Sounds like you’re completely fed up with them ?




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Expecting "progress" in five weeks from a baby snake that's clearly very frightened is expecting too much. He's not a "jerk". He's scared. Move him into a smaller enclosure with hides that are small enough to help him feel snugly enclosed - there's nothing wasteful about spending a few dollars to ensure that a pet is provided with the best possible care. You can also add some crumpled up paper towels or spaghnum moss to his current hides if they are too big for him. Add clutter to his enclosure - fake vines are inexpensive at any hobby shop, or again, just add crumpled paper towels for him to feel hidden as he moves around.

Slow way down on handling. Instead, try taking the lid off of his enclosure and checking quickly under the hides to be sure he's OK, then simply sit near him/the enclosure for awhile every day before putting the lid back on. Let him get used to you doing a quick welfare check and learn that you are a non-invasive, non-scary presence. This requires patience, and could take weeks.

Work on dialing down your reaction to the possibility of being tagged. He's too small to hurt you. Wear a light glove to change his water if you still feel tense - because your own tension will result in the possibility of jerky movements that will add to his fear. Just take your time, give him an environment he feels safe in, and go slow and easy with him. He'll be OK, but he needs more than a few weeks.