Year-old corn snake

So I just got a year old albino corn snake yesterday! I put him in a 40 gallon tank and he's staying burrowed in the back corner of the cold side. Is that normal? Also his hides are much bigger than him, he looks tiny in them. Should I try smaller ones to help him feel safer? He also occasionally makes this clicking noise when he's moving around, and he has his mouth open a bit pretty much constantly. I can see his teeth if I look at it closely. I only notice the clicking noise when he's moving around. Could he have a respiratory infection? I don't have a good picture of his mouth, sadly.

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Very attractive snake & very nice set-up, though you'll want to fill the space in the large hides with substrate so he feels secure there.

Sounds like he has an RI...clicking & mouth-breathing is not normal or a good sign. With good care he may recover on his own, if not see a vet. Don't wait too long.

By "good care" I mean proper temps. (what are they? corn snakes prefer "room temperature" about 72-76*, with a warm area of 85-86*), & no handling (minimize
his stress) If he's staying in the cold part of his cage, it may be because you've over-heated it...corns require much lower temps. than BPs. Keep his humidity up a
little (if it's dry where you live?).

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Very attractive snake & very nice set-up, though you'll want to fill the space in the large hides with substrate so he feels secure there.

Sounds like he has an RI...clicking & mouth-breathing is not normal or a good sign. With good care he may recover on his own, if not see a vet. Don't wait too long.

By "good care" I mean proper temps. (what are they? corn snakes prefer "room temperature" about 72-76*, with a warm area of 85-86*), & no handling (minimize
his stress) If he's staying in the cold part of his cage, it may be because you've over-heated it...corns require much lower temps. than BPs. Keep his humidity up a
little (if it's dry where you live?).

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I keep his warm side at 80-85. Humidity is usually 30-40%. Thanks for the advice!

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Originally Posted by Countach

I keep his warm side at 80-85. Humidity is usually 30-40%. Thanks for the advice!

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Sometimes snakes recover from minor RI's with a little more warmth, so to encourage him to use his "warm hides" you might try filling it with damp sphagnum moss.
Garden centers & florists carry it, besides pet stores: soak it thoroughly, then drain out most of the water before installing it. I bet you'll find him in there, & of course,
you'll have to keep misting it (or re-soaking it when he comes out).

Another possibility is that he has old stuck shed (especially in his nostrils) from insufficient humidity...and damp moss/raising his humidity can fix that too. I love corn
snakes, I hope you do well with him. Previous owner (or store?) may have kept him way too warm &/or dry. I hope this is an easy fix...and I definitely wouldn't rush to
a vet before you find out if symptoms are from an incomplete shed. Now if you see his mouth bubbling or with mucous, that pretty well identifies an RI, but try this ^ ^
first. ;)

I would put the wet moss in the cork-bark hide...that will help catch the drips. Make sure it's very cozy & best to block in* one end of it too...open tunnels
(or hides with such huge "doorways") don't offer a feeling of security to a snake. *You can use something temporary like a piece of clean cloth over it if you
want (so you can peek in now & then too). As a yearling I'm sure he's seen people before, but being in a new home is still very frightening to a snake and
stress takes away from the proper function of their immune system, much as it does ours.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Sometimes snakes recover from minor RI's with a little more warmth, so to encourage him to use his "warm hides" you might try filling it with damp sphagnum moss.
Garden centers & florists carry it, besides pet stores: soak it thoroughly, then drain out most of the water before installing it. I bet you'll find him in there, & of course,
you'll have to keep misting it (or re-soaking it when he comes out).

Another possibility is that he has old stuck shed (especially in his nostrils) from insufficient humidity...and damp moss/raising his humidity can fix that too. I love corn
snakes, I hope you do well with him. Previous owner (or store?) may have kept him way too warm &/or dry. I hope this is an easy fix...and I definitely wouldn't rush to
a vet before you find out if symptoms are from an incomplete shed. Now if you see his mouth bubbling or with mucous, that pretty well identifies an RI, but try this ^ ^
first. ;)

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I'll try raising the humidity a little, and use moss in the cork bark hide. I agree it could be stuck shed, he seems active and I haven't seen any bubbling. Keeping a close eye on it. I'll try to encourage him to use his warm hide, but he always seems to end up back in his burrow lol.

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Originally Posted by Countach

I'll try raising the humidity a little, and use moss in the cork bark hide. I agree it could be stuck shed, he seems active and I haven't seen any bubbling. Keeping a close eye on it. I'll try to encourage him to use his warm hide, but he always seems to end up back in his burrow lol.

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You don't have to raise the humidity in the whole enclosure (& it promotes mold too), that's why I suggested moss in the cork bark (& put that on the warm side if it's not
already there). Or you can make other types of humid hides using plastic containers but that would spoil the natural look you've done so nicely. Orchid bark (comes in
small & large chips) also holds humidity pretty well & can be used in various ways (in whole cage or in humid hide). I hope he just needs to "blow his nose", lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

You don't have to raise the humidity in the whole enclosure (& it promotes mold too), that's why I suggested moss in the cork bark (& put that on the warm side if it's not
already there). Or you can make other types of humid hides using plastic containers but that would spoil the natural look you've done so nicely. Orchid bark (comes in
small & large chips) also holds humidity pretty well & can be used in various ways (in whole cage or in humid hide). I hope he just needs to "blow his nose", lol.

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Ok, I'll try the moss in the cork bark :gj:

Took some pictures of his head.

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His mouth sure isn't right...& right now I'd say it's more likely an R.I. or mouth infection -his mouth isn't closing right, possibly because he's been pushing with his
nose to clear his breathing, but more likely due to a problem inside his mouth, sorry to say.

Have you researched a good herp vet nearby? (or do you already have one?)

http://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

His mouth sure isn't right...& right now I'd say it's more likely an R.I. or mouth infection -his mouth isn't closing right, possibly because he's been pushing with his
nose to clear his breathing, but more likely due to a problem inside his mouth, sorry to say.

Have you researched a good herp vet nearby? (or do you already have one?)

http://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661

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Yeah I know of a good vet. Should I take him to the vet as soon as I can, or wait and see if it gets worse?

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Originally Posted by Countach

Yeah I know of a good vet. Should I take him to the vet as soon as I can, or wait and see if it gets worse?

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I'm not seeing anything (old shed pieces) in his nostrils...are you? Have you looked inside his mouth? I wonder how long he's had these symptoms...did you get any info from whomever you got him from? His face looks a little smushed-in...some snakes get a mouth infection after hitting the glass (often being teased or just over-eager about food). I can't tell from here what's going on...vet seems like a good plan, there's only so much we can do online to sort this out. Most infections respond better when treated promptly, & after seeing him close up, that appears to me to be what's going on. (short answer: sooner)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

I'm not seeing anything (old shed pieces) in his nostrils...are you? Have you looked inside his mouth? I wonder how long he's had these symptoms...did you get any info from whomever you got him from? His face looks a little smushed-in...some snakes get a mouth infection after hitting the glass (often being teased or just over-eager about food). I can't tell from here what's going on...vet seems like a good plan, there's only so much we can do online to sort this out. Most infections respond better when treated promptly, & after seeing him close up, that appears to me to be what's going on. (short answer: sooner)

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Nope I did not see anything in his nostrils. I haven't checked his mouth as I am trying not to stress him out since I just got him. How would you recommend I check it? (I've never checked a snake's mouth before.) I got him from a local exotic reptile store, and asked them about it but they just said they haven't had any issues with him.

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Originally Posted by Countach

Nope I did not see anything in his nostrils. I haven't checked his mouth as I am trying not to stress him out since I just got him. How would you recommend I check it? (I've never checked a snake's mouth before.) I got him from a local exotic reptile store, and asked them about it but they just said they haven't had any issues with him.

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Of course, they wanted to make a sale. :( Normally a yearling corn snake is a great choice for a pet, as hatchlings are tiny & delicate...but it also depends on the care they've had up to now, & a certain percentage of "available yearlings" are offered for sale because the breeder or previous owner knows there's an issue & they don't want to deal with it.

You can use something like a tongue depressor to open snake's mouth but if you're uncomfortable doing it (& won't know what you're really looking at anyway?) there's no point in adding to his stress right now, save it for the vet. (I'm assuming you've had him too long to return to the store or don't want to, or there's no guarantee anyway?)

IMO the store took advantage of you...it takes a practiced eye to spot issues like this in snakes...& I'm not saying all their staff is equally-experienced either, but surely the manager/owner is & would have known. I don't think much of stores that "play dumb" giving answers like that ("haven't had any issues" :confusd: ).

So...you just got him yesterday? Vet care can get expensive & you should NOT have to take this on, IMO. It's up to you though...as an animal lover I want
to help any that are in my care, but you only just got him, & it would be hard to hear his clicking in a busy store...you may want to reconsider whether or not to keep him or try to return for refund. Gee, what a bummer...

So...is this your first snake? One thing that jumps out to me is that you got him from a store & put him straight into a really nicely decorated cage...and I hate to
say this but you should have kept him in a rather bare cage (w/ plastic hides) & white paper towels on the "floor" for the first couple weeks while making SURE he
has no mites. This is critical...because in a set-up like this, mites will hide EVERYWHERE & their population will explode exponentially...they can & do kill snakes due
to blood loss (dehydration, shock & organ failure), so please, for future reference, keep this in mind. When you posted that you just got him, and he's a yearling, I
assumed that you got him from a friend or other home situation, because of the way you set up his cage. You did a nice job, truly...but it's premature for best results-
it's impossible to see mites in aspen & other substrates...but they show up on paper towels if you look close & know what to look for.

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Of course, they wanted to make a sale. :( Normally a yearling corn snake is a great choice for a pet, as hatchlings are tiny & delicate...but it also depends on the care they've had up to now, & a certain percentage of "available yearlings" are offered for sale because the breeder or previous owner knows there's an issue & they don't want to deal with it.

You can use something like a tongue depressor to open snake's mouth but if you're uncomfortable doing it (& won't know what you're really looking at anyway?) there's no point in adding to his stress right now, save it for the vet. (I'm assuming you've had him too long to return to the store or don't want to, or there's no guarantee anyway?)

IMO the store took advantage of you...it takes a practiced eye to spot issues like this in snakes...& I'm not saying all their staff is equally-experienced either, but surely the manager/owner is & would have known. I don't think much of stores that "play dumb" giving answers like that ("haven't had any issues" :confusd: ).

So...you just got him yesterday? Vet care can get expensive & you should NOT have to take this on, IMO. It's up to you though...as an animal lover I want
to help any that are in my care, but you only just got him, & it would be hard to hear his clicking in a busy store...you may want to reconsider whether or not to keep him or try to return for refund. Gee, what a bummer...

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I guess I will take him to the vet soon. :( I don't want to try to check his mouth and end up hurting him. The manager was the one that sold him to me too which kinda sucks. I don't want to return the snake though. Also thanks for the tip about mites, I will remember that for my next snake. Yep this is my first one so I am not 100% sure what I am doing yet haha.

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Originally Posted by Countach

I guess I will take him to the vet soon. :( I don't want to try to check his mouth and end up hurting him. The manager was the one that sold him to me too which kinda sucks. I don't want to return the snake though. Also thanks for the tip about mites, I will remember that for my next snake.

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As they say, "buyer beware". :( His lower jaw is swollen, but I agree that it's best to let the vet check it all out...& since you're planning to keep him, I hope he makes a
full & quick recovery. None of this means that he doesn't have mites too, btw...so pay close attention & if you see any tiny (pin point) moving specks (red/brown or black)
on the snake, in his water bowl or anywhere in his cage, be ready to clear out that lovely set-up, because mites hide eggs in all porous materials. I HOPE he didn't bring
home any such "guests", but this is not an ethical source, so you certainly can't rule it out or let down your guard. If you see him soaking in his water bowl, that's some-
thing that many snakes do that have mites...it helps them to relieve the itch (we presume) & some may even drown (but most mites "need our help" to drown).

I hope you find a better exotic pet store next time...many stores cannot be trusted, they're all about making money & are all too happy to sell unhealthy animals to un-
suspecting customers.

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

As they say, "buyer beware". :( His lower jaw is swollen, but I agree that it's best to let the vet check it all out...& since you're planning to keep him, I hope he makes a
full & quick recovery. None of this means that he doesn't have mites too, btw...so pay close attention & if you see any tiny (pin point) moving specks (red/brown or black)
on the snake, in his water bowl or anywhere in his cage, be ready to clear out that lovely set-up, because mites hide eggs in all porous materials. I HOPE he didn't bring
home any such "guests", but this is not an ethical source, so you certainly can't rule it out or let down your guard. If you see him soaking in his water bowl, that's some-
thing that many snakes do that have mites...it helps them to relieve the itch (we presume) & some may even drown (but most mites "need our help" to drown).

I hope you find a better exotic pet store next time...many stores cannot be trusted, they're all about making money & are all too happy to sell unhealthy animals to un-
suspecting customers.

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Thanks for all the help! I'll take him to the vet, and I will defiantly keep a close watch for mites. Let's hope he doesn't have any. One last thing: he's supposed to get fed tomorrow, should I wait a few days to let him get settled in?

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Originally Posted by Countach

Thanks for all the help! I'll take him to the vet, and I will defiantly keep a close watch for mites. Let's hope he doesn't have any. One last thing: he's supposed to get fed tomorrow, should I wait a few days to let him get settled in?

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Good question! :gj: Wait until you see the vet with him...don't feed yet, as going to the vet can cause him to regurgitate his meal anyway, & if he's given certain
medications that can be an issue too, so it's just best to wait. I'm so glad that he has a caring new owner now, I really hope for a good outcome- and no mites! :O
And yes, even if he was healthy, it would be better to wait a few days to let him settle in before feeding...but in THIS case, see the vet first.

Do keep us posted...corn snakes are wonderful pets (I currently have 5 & have bred them in past years) & I'm happy to help you sort this out. I just wish you'd gotten
an easier start with keeping a pet snake.

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Good question! :gj: Wait until you see the vet with him...don't feed yet, as going to the vet can cause him to regurgitate his meal anyway, & if he's given certain
medications that can be an issue too, so it's just best to wait. I'm so glad that he has a caring new owner now, I really hope for a good outcome- and no mites! :O
And yes, even if he was healthy, it would be better to wait a few days to let him settle in before feeding...but in THIS case, see the vet first.

Do keep us posted...corn snakes are wonderful pets (I currently have 5 & have bred them in past years) & I'm happy to help you sort this out. I just wish you'd gotten
an easier start with keeping a pet snake.

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Thanks, I will keep you updated!

By the way...do you know what he was being fed? What size of mice, and live or pre-killed (fresh or frozen-thawed)? I'm assuming they didn't give you a feeding
record either :rolleyes: and this is important for your success in feeding a snake, knowing what they prefer & are used to. Most corn snakes are great eaters (but may
not be if they have a mouth issue as this one appears to) and very few refuse to eat f/t mice (frozen-thawed).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

By the way...do you know what he was being fed? What size of mice, and live or pre-killed (fresh or frozen-thawed)? I'm assuming they didn't give you a feeding
record either :rolleyes: and this is important for your success in feeding a snake, knowing what they prefer & are used to. Most corn snakes are great eaters (but may
not be if they have a mouth issue as this one appears to) and very few refuse to eat f/t mice (frozen-thawed).

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One fresh killed adult mouse every Monday is what they told me. I asked what they were feeding the adult corn snake in the next tank over, and they said?? two fresh killed adult mice every Monday?? I thought you were supposed to feed adults less often, like one adult mouse every 10 days or something, not two?

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Originally Posted by Countach

One fresh killed adult mouse every Monday is what they told me. I asked what they were feeding the adult corn snake in the next tank over, and they said?? two fresh killed adult mice every Monday?? I thought you were supposed to feed adults less often, like one adult mouse every 10 days or something, not two?

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Yes, that's what I do...hatchlings are fed every 5-7 days (pinkies digest quicker too- no hair & very little bone), & gradually I lengthen the time between feedings as
the size of their prey gets larger (as it takes longer to digest as well), so that adults are eating about every 10 days in summer (hungrier in warm weather) and every
2 weeks in other seasons. Normally I feed only one prey item per meal but if prey is on the small side, you can double up occasionally...just don't over-do it...snakes
are healthier (as are we) when not over-fed...& remember that our pets are generally far less active than wild snakes catching their own prey. My largest adult corn
snakes are big enough (over 5') to eat 2 adult mice, but I don't do that ordinarily. For one thing, by the time a corn snake is that large, it's also getting old & their
metabolism slows down. My oldest corn snake right now is about 20 years old, & the last time he ate a large mouse, he barfed it back up...he actually wants (& better
digests) only smaller mice now. BTW, a feeding schedule is mostly for us, to better keep track of...there's no such thing for wild snakes, of course, so I don't stress to
stick to a rigid schedule of feeding my snakes either.

The more you tell me about the store where you got your snake from, the less impressed I am. ;) Of course, several things can influence how fast a snake can digest
their food: if they're kept too warm, they'll digest faster & eat more often...their metabolism is controlled by their environment; if they have digestive parasites (which
they can get from eating live or fresh killed rodents from questionable sources) they'll be "sharing" their meals (with "worms") & appear to digest more rapidly than
normal, but needless to say this is unhealthy & they won't gain weight the way they would if not "sharing". (snakes can safely be wormed using certain medicines that
are also used to de-worm horses) So if their adult snake is fat, I'd say they're just over-feeding (& like some ppl, some snakes will eat more than they should), but if
it's thin, I'd bet it needs de-wormed. :snake:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Countach

One fresh killed adult mouse every Monday is what they told me. I asked what they were feeding the adult corn snake in the next tank over, and they said?? two fresh killed adult mice every Monday?? I thought you were supposed to feed adults less often, like one adult mouse every 10 days or something, not two?

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It can vary from snake to snake. I change feedings according to shed cycles, season, maintenance feeding male vs breeding female.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Yes, that's what I do...hatchlings are fed every 5-7 days (pinkies digest quicker too- no hair & very little bone), & gradually I lengthen the time between feedings as
the size of their prey gets larger (as it takes longer to digest as well), so that adults are eating about every 10 days in summer (hungrier in warm weather) and every
2 weeks in other seasons. Normally I feed only one prey item per meal but if prey is on the small side, you can double up occasionally...just don't over-do it...snakes
are healthier (as are we) when not over-fed...& remember that our pets are generally far less active than wild snakes catching their own prey. My largest adult corn
snakes are big enough (over 5') to eat 2 adult mice, but I don't do that ordinarily. For one thing, by the time a corn snake is that large, it's also getting old & their
metabolism slows down. My oldest corn snake right now is about 20 years old, & the last time he ate a large mouse, he barfed it back up...he actually wants (& better
digests) only smaller mice now. BTW, a feeding schedule is mostly for us, to better keep track of...there's no such thing for wild snakes, of course, so I don't stress to
stick to a rigid schedule of feeding my snakes either.

The more you tell me about the store where you got your snake from, the less impressed I am. ;) Of course, several things can influence how fast a snake can digest
their food: if they're kept too warm, they'll digest faster & eat more often...their metabolism is controlled by their environment; if they have digestive parasites (which
they can get from eating live or fresh killed rodents from questionable sources) they'll be "sharing" their meals (with "worms") & appear to digest more rapidly than
normal, but needless to say this is unhealthy & they won't gain weight the way they would if not "sharing". (snakes can safely be wormed using certain medicines that
are also used to de-worm horses) So if their adult snake is fat, I'd say they're just over-feeding (& like some ppl, some snakes will eat more than they should), but if
it's thin, I'd bet it needs de-wormed. :snake:

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Thanks! I sent another message to the reptile store I got him from, asking about his mouth and overall health. Waiting for a reply currently.

Oh yes, for SURE an adult female corn that has been bred or laid eggs is going to eat more for a while - & maybe most of the year- too...that goes without saying.
But that wouldn't apply to the typical adult pet corn snake.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Countach

Thanks! I sent another message to the reptile store I got him from, asking about his mouth and overall health. Waiting for a reply currently.

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Of course the time to ask questions & observe is before you buy; it's so easy to be excited & in a rush to buy a new pet but I bet you won't make that mistake again.
And don't feel too bad...it's very easy to miss things, especially when you're new at this. Sadly some pet stores count on that to make a sale, & now that he's in your
possession, I wouldn't expect much in the way of a reply...I predict they'll continue to play dumb.

Is it normal that he's been staying in his hide and not coming out at all?

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Originally Posted by Countach

Is it normal that he's been staying in his hide and not coming out at all?

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Yes, he's in a new home & he's afraid...he has no idea why or how the world as he knew it just changed completely. Also, most of our snakes lay low & hide most of the
time anyway...in fact, all of my corn snakes are currently in their hides snoozing too, & they've been here for a decade...so it's normal. Snakes in the wild don't wander
around looking at the scenery, it only increases their risk from predators. If out & about, they're either hunting food, a mate, or a new hiding place if something happens
to their "go-to" place. My corns get more active in the evenings & when I walk by their enclosures, they're usually hoping it's feeding day (unless they're in shed).

So I checked his mouth just now, and it has a lot of "spit" in it. The reptile store said I could exchange him for an adult corn they have, or they could treat him since they have medication. Should I exchange him or let them give him medicine?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Countach

So I checked his mouth just now, and it has a lot of "spit" in it. The reptile store said I could exchange him for an adult corn they have, or they could treat him since they have medication. Should I exchange him or let them give him medicine?

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Thought so...poor snake has an infection (R.I.) going on, & I'm willing to bet they've already treated him for it, to no avail...they were just hoping you wouldn't notice.

No way I'm making THIS decision for you...I don't think I'd personally trust either option, I'd want a refund; even though sorry for this snake, it's asking a LOT of a new
inexperienced owner to take on a sick snake -exotic animal vets are expensive & there's no guarantee that treatment will be successful, I'm sorry to say. Also, I'm not
seeing your other option (the adult snake) nor have you included pertinent details (age, health, appearance) much less how YOU feel about it.

BTW, did you find any mites? -that's another factor to consider carefully. ;) (ie. another reason to run the other direction)

FYI: some infections are resistant to medications given. Also, just giving an antibiotic is NO guarantee it will work...it's totally a "shot in the dark" unless extensive lab
work (more costly!) is done to identify the exact pathogen they're trying to eradicate (cure). So as Clint Eastwood said, "Do you feel lucky? ...well, do ya?"

I'm not sure that these are your only 2 options either: you might call the Better Business Bureau or local (city) chamber of commerce...not sure what city or state laws
may apply to being sold a sick animal (ASK!), but any GOOD establishment would give your money back...you noticed immediately, & they know they're wrong, IMO.

I might also find a way to hint that I have a lot of friends that I talk to in the herp community: ie. imply that you could hurt their reputation if they give you a hard time-
better yet, put a positive spin on this...say something like "I'd rather start fresh, not under pressure to accept a different animal, & I want to be able to tell my friends
that you were entirely fair & ethical with me, and gave me a full refund when this problem was noticed." ;)

BTW, respiratory infections can be contagious to other snakes nearby...& I'm betting this one wasn't in quarantine either? ;) So the other snake could come
down with it after being stressed, coming into a new home (yours) if you go that route...only that might not show up right away, & then you would be stuck.

You didn't mention the gender of the adult snake but part of me is guessing it's an adult female, maybe this one's mom- that would explain the fact they're feeding
2 adult mice...but if now available for purchase, that means it's a retired breeder- no longer productive for them to make money off of, and breeders don't usually
live as long as un-bred snakes, as breeding takes a toll on their health. So without a lot more information, of the reliable (!) kind, I'd not chance it. My 2 cents.

Plenty of reliable breeders around with healthy snakes available.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Thought so...poor snake has an infection (R.I.) going on, & I'm willing to bet they've already treated him for it, to no avail...they were just hoping you wouldn't notice.

No way I'm making THIS decision for you...I don't think I'd personally trust either option, I'd want a refund; even though sorry for this snake, it's asking a LOT of a new
inexperienced owner to take on a sick snake -exotic animal vets are expensive & there's no guarantee that treatment will be successful, I'm sorry to say. Also, I'm not
seeing your other option (the adult snake) nor have you included pertinent details (age, health, appearance) much less how YOU feel about it.

BTW, did you find any mites? -that's another factor to consider carefully. ;) (ie. another reason to run the other direction)

FYI: some infections are resistant to medications given. Also, just giving an antibiotic is NO guarantee it will work...it's totally a "shot in the dark" unless extensive lab
work (more costly!) is done to identify the exact pathogen they're trying to eradicate (cure). So as Clint Eastwood said, "Do you feel lucky? ...well, do ya?"

I'm not sure that these are your only 2 options either: you might call the Better Business Bureau or local (city) chamber of commerce...not sure what city or state laws
may apply to being sold a sick animal (ASK!), but any GOOD establishment would give your money back...you noticed immediately, & they know they're wrong, IMO.

I might also find a way to hint that I have a lot of friends that I talk to in the herp community: ie. imply that you could hurt their reputation if they give you a hard time-
better yet, put a positive spin on this...say something like "I'd rather start fresh, not under pressure to accept a different animal, & I want to be able to tell my friends
that you were entirely fair & ethical with me, and gave me a full refund when this problem was noticed." ;)

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I think I am going to take him to an experienced herp vet. I'll have to see what the pricing is. I don't want to refund him because it's so hard to find snakes in my area, older ones at least, the place I got him from is the only reptile store nearby. Also, no, I haven't seen any mites so far.

I would either ask the store to pay for the vet, or have them treat it until its healthy. If neither of those would work out I would get a refund.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Countach

I think I am going to take him to an experienced herp vet. I'll have to see what the pricing is. I don't want to refund him because it's so hard to find snakes in my area, older ones at least, the place I got him from is the only reptile store nearby. Also, no, I haven't seen any mites so far.

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Mind if I ask what general area you're in? (you can PM if you'd rather not say here) You do realize that most good breeders ship snakes by air? I know it's really nice
to be able to see a snake in person first, before buying, but problems like this are what you run into as a trade-off. I've gotten some snakes from pet stores many years
ago when I first got into snakes, but many more came from breeders, both online & local pick-up after Expo. Many breeders do sell yearlings that they've held back
as possible future breeders etc. -you just have to ask. But, it's your call.

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you & this snake...:snake:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sur3fir3

I would either ask the store to pay for the vet, or have them treat it until its healthy. If neither of those would work out I would get a refund.

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:yes: I don't believe they didn't already know it's sick, & since they said they have medicine for it & offered to treat it, I'd also bet they've already treated it, & the
infection probably returned.

That's another thing...if YOU take the snake to the vet, you should know WHAT the snake has already been given, as additional treatments can be harmful (hard on the
snake's liver). Antibiotics are not 100% safe for reptiles...being given the wrong ones or being given them incorrectly can cause resistant germs, making success less
likely. Repeated treatments with different antibiotics are not without risks for the snake. It's possible that if they dose it again, it may seem to clear up for a while,
only for the infection to return again later...when you're stuck with him. Just saying... Hope I'm wrong. :rolleyes:

Ok, I will ask them if he's been treated before and see if they respond.

They just responded, said that he's had no previous medications. Taking him to the vet Wednesday.

Good luck...please do keep us posted.

Well I did a little research on caring for a snake that has an RI, and you're right, it seems pretty complicated. Probably too complicated for someone brand new to snakes like I am, so, I am going to get a refund for the snake and then ask some breeders if they have any yearlings they'd be willing to sell.

I think this is for the best...& :gj: for doing research...it really does pay off.

The thing is, if you went against the store's advice & took him to the vet on your own, they'd have legally washed their hands of him, & he might not have gotten well.
Considering the fact that they sold you a sick snake, I also wouldn't really take their word for it that "he's NEVER been medicated" by them previously...:rolleyes: Just saying.
Not every seller is honest, sadly.

From all that you've done up to this point, I think you're going to be a very good snake owner...so I hate to see you start off with a difficult (sick) snake- like I did, years ago.

One thing...it's absolutely ESSENTIAL that you completely disinfect the cage you've had him in, well before getting any new snake. That means: throw out anything that
is porous, & you might as well give that cork bark to the store when you return him...it wouldn't be safe to use with the next occupant...it could spread whatever he has.
So anything like paper, wood (branches, tunnels, hides etc.), cork, cardboard must be thrown away...so sorry.

Anything plastic, metal, rock, or glass can be washed (soap & water), then disinfected with multiple products: ammonia (follow instructions, you need GOOD ventilation!),
& at least one of the following- F10, chlorhexidine/Nolvasan, rubbing alcohol (also nasty to breathe), diluted bleach (very nasty & not necessary if you used ammonia).
NONE of these should be mixed together, be sure you rinse the cage & accessories very well between all applications. OK?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

I think this is for the best...& :gj: for doing research...it really does pay off.

The thing is, if you went against the store's advice & took him to the vet on your own, they'd have legally washed their hands of him, & he might not have gotten well.
Considering the fact that they sold you a sick snake, I also wouldn't really take their word for it that "he's NEVER been medicated" by them previously...:rolleyes: Just saying.
Not every seller is honest, sadly.

From all that you've done up to this point, I think you're going to be a very good snake owner...so I hate to see you start off with a difficult (sick) snake- like I did, years ago.

One thing...it's absolutely ESSENTIAL that you completely disinfect the cage you've had him in, well before getting any new snake. That means: throw out anything that
is porous, & you might as well give that cork bark to the store when you return him...it wouldn't be safe to use with the next occupant...it could spread whatever he has.
So anything like paper, wood (branches, tunnels, hides etc.), cork, cardboard must be thrown away...so sorry.

Anything plastic, metal, rock, or glass can be washed (soap & water), then disinfected with multiple products: ammonia (follow instructions, you need GOOD ventilation!),
& at least one of the following- F10, chlorhexidine/Nolvasan, rubbing alcohol (also nasty to breathe), diluted bleach (very nasty & not necessary if you used ammonia).
NONE of these should be mixed together, be sure you rinse the cage & accessories very well between all applications. OK?

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Yep I will start cleaning everything later today after I return him! Do you know of any good breeders I might check out?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Countach

Yep I will start cleaning everything later today after I return him! Do you know of any good breeders I might check out?

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Not off-hand I don't...it's been a few years since I considered adding any snakes. If I were you, I'd start a thread asking for suggestions here, then check them out.
There is also a CornSnakes.com forum that might have more- or other- suggestions. Take your time...check multiple photos, ask questions & verify reputations.

Also, there's several members here with LOTS of corn snakes...check the threads in the corn snake "forum"-they shouldn't be too hard to find.


So the store mgr. has now agreed to take back the snake & give you a refund? -Some will try to brush you off but when you persist,they co-operate ;)...good job!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Countach

Yep I will start cleaning everything later today after I return him! Do you know of any good breeders I might check out?

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If you use Facebook, there is a Feedback and Inquiry group for reptiles there that you can search. https://www.facebook.com/groups/Rept...kandInquiries/

If you see a breeder with animals you like (on morphmarket or anywhere else), search the name and see if they have reviews. If there are bad reviews, you can avoid them, or mixed and you can evaluate yourself based on the contents of the reviews. If they're absent in the group it isn't necessarily a bad thing, and you can post asking for opinions and people usually can chime in good vs bad then.

Alternatively, you can search by species in the search bar also and look at "good guy" reviews for breeders of the species if you need help finding names to look into.

I believe there is still a similar board on the FaunaClassifieds forum (it went paywall at one point, but I think it is free again right now?).

I got one of my corns from Snakess n Lizzards and had a good experience with them, but I almost always purchase in person at local expos, so I have not ordered online for snakes before. https://www.facebook.com/SnakessNLizzards/

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

All great suggestions. ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

Of the 5 corn snakes I still have, one was bred by me & the other 4 came from a private party who advertised online, but it's been a long time & corns were not
his main thing anyway...I'd rather you rely on current (more recent) recommendations.

Ok, thanks for the advice! :gj:

My new snake got delivered today! He hasn't eaten in over a week, but I don't want to feed him since he just got here. How long should I wait to feed him?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Countach

My new snake got delivered today! He hasn't eaten in over a week, but I don't want to feed him since he just got here. How long should I wait to feed him?

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He was air-shipped to you? May I suggest that first you start a new thread for this? One with a few more details, age/size of snake...;)