Couple questions about my young red tail

(links to her pics at the bottom
)

Hi everyone! This isy first post here. I asked these questions on the snakes Reddit but only got a few replies, so I'd figured I try this place. Bc this sit site seems more active and full of knowledgeable people.

So I've always wanted a red tail boa ever since I was 8. Seen a 7-8 footer in a pet store and ever since that it's been my "dream snake" lol. So about 3 weeks ago I finally bought one. Owners said she's a female. And is still young but don't know how old. http://imgur.com/gallery/y16Zap0
So my questions are

1. The owners said she was feeding on 1 weanling mouse every 14 days. The ppl at Petco and the ppl on Reddit said that was not ok for a snake her size. Said she should get a adult mouse every ten days so every ten days since then I've gave her a adult mouse. Am I doing the right thing?

2. I know it's hard to tell for sure, but based on her size how old would you estimate she is? (Just a ball park)

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance! :)
http://imgur.com/gallery/y16Zap0 link to pics

It’s difficult to estimate age with snakes because there are so many variables: size at birth, size of prey and frequency of feeding, how quickly after birth he/she started feeding, and genetics just to name the main ones. Looking at your picture, a pure guess is a few months old.

Boas do not have the metabolism of some other species, such as ball pythons or rats snakes, that can handle a lot of over feeding. Slow and steady is the game with them. It has been many years since I had baby or juvenile boas, but I fed one prey item that was about the same width as the thickest part of the snake once per week for the first year to year and a half. I’d say an adult mouse (or rat pup if you want to switch now) looks appropriate based on the photo.

After the year to year and a half mark, I changed the boas feeding schedule to every 2 weeks. My mature adult boas typically received one appropriately sized prey item every 2-3 weeks. I only have one female left now, her name is Duncan. She is 26 and is fed one extra large rat on this schedule and is doing very well.

Boas, like most snakes, will eat themselves to obesity and death if you let them. It's way too easy to overfeed them.

When you feed the weanling mouse (more often called a hopper) is there a noticeable lump in her tummy? How about when you feed the adult mouse?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dianne

It’s difficult to estimate age with snakes because there are so many variables: size at birth, size of prey and frequency of feeding, how quickly after birth he/she started feeding, and genetics just to name the main ones. Looking at your picture, a pure guess is a few months old.

Boas do not have the metabolism of some other species, such as ball pythons or rats snakes, that can handle a lot of over feeding. Slow and steady is the game with them. It has been many years since I had baby or juvenile boas, but I fed one prey item that was about the same width as the thickest part of the snake once per week for the first year to year and a half. I’d say an adult mouse (or rat pup if you want to switch now) looks appropriate based on the photo.

After the year to year and a half mark, I changed the boas feeding schedule to every 2 weeks. My mature adult boas typically received one appropriately sized prey item every 2-3 weeks. I only have one female left now, her name is Duncan. She is 26 and is fed one extra large rat on this schedule and is doing very well.

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Thanks for the reply! So it's probably safe to stick with an adult mouse every 7-10 days for now?

Yours looks to be about the same size as mine. He’s currently feeding on the size right below adult. Although mice aren’t the best option for these guys so I ordered some size appropriate rats. As far as size of the prey item, follow the general guideline. Feed her a rodent about the same size as her largest girth.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b3e57e3f73.jpg
Hopefully this will help you. Head over to the red tail forum on Tapatalk and they have an awesome free guide for download.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bcr229

Boas, like most snakes, will eat themselves to obesity and death if you let them. It's way too easy to overfeed them.

When you feed the weanling mouse (more often called a hopper) is there a noticeable lump in her tummy? How about when you feed the adult mouse?

---

Thanks for the reply! And I fed her a hopper once, she ate him really fast. And after that I didn't notice any bulge.
With the adult mice it takes her longer to eat and TBH I never noticed a bulge. But most of the time she's either burrowing or under her hide especially after a meal. But fr what I did see of her there wasn't a bulge. But next time I feed her I'll be sure to get a good look at her and maybe take a pic just to be sure.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Selvis

Thanks for the reply! So it's probably safe to stick with an adult mouse every 7-10 days for now?

---

I think an adult mouse every 7-10 days is fine for the juveniles, just keep an eye on the prey size vs width of the snake so you know when to move up in size. I’ve never had any issues with switching my boas from mice to rats or over to frozen thawed from live...they have all been garbage disposals when it comes to food.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MarkL1561

Yours looks to be about the same size as mine. He’s currently feeding on the size right below adult. Although mice aren’t the best option for these guys so I ordered some size appropriate rats. As far as size of the prey item, follow the general guideline. Feed her a rodent about the same size as her largest girth.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b3e57e3f73.jpg
Hopefully this will help you. Head over to the red tail forum on Tapatalk and they have an awesome free guide for download.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

Thanks for the advice! Do I just download that taptalk app to view that forum?

And next time I'll make sure to see if the mouse is the size of her largest girth. Is there a Best way to do this? I'm assuming I just have to eyeball it?

And I'll look into rats as well. Also I've been feeding live prey. I'd prefer tp feed thawed but the previous owner said once you feed them live you can't switch to pre killed. Has this been the case in your experience?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dianne

I think an adult mouse every 7-10 days is fine for the juveniles, just keep an eye on the prey size vs width of the snake so you know when to move up in size. I’ve never had any issues with switching my boas from mice to rats or over to frozen thawed from live...they have all been garbage disposals when it comes to food.

---

Oh okay. That's good to know. Was a little worried about that
And maybe I will try to see if she LL eat a frozen mouse next time. I've never really liked feeding live but thought it was my only option. I'll give it a shot and see how it goes

I also had a few more questions

I've noticed the last week the cool end of the tanks temp has dropped from 75 to around 70. The first few weeks it stayed right around 75/76. Nothing has changed in my house and my room is actually very warm. Not sure what's up .

I bought the cheap thermometer from Petco which was like 8 dollars. This payday I'm going to buy a better one just to see if maybe the readings are in accurate.

But if it's not a problem with that what would be a good step to take? Buy a heat mat? Get a thermostat?

Also I noticed the warm end is only like 81/82. I'm just using the heat lamp that the other owners gave me. Should I look into another lamp? And if so is there any recommendations?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Selvis

I also had a few more questions

I've noticed the last week the cool end of the tanks temp has dropped from 75 to around 70. The first few weeks it stayed right around 75/76. Nothing has changed in my house and my room is actually very warm. Not sure what's up .

I bought the cheap thermometer from Petco which was like 8 dollars. This payday I'm going to buy a better one just to see if maybe the readings are in accurate.

But if it's not a problem with that what would be a good step to take? Buy a heat mat? Get a thermostat?

Also I noticed the warm end is only like 81/82. I'm just using the heat lamp that the other owners gave me. Should I look into another lamp? And if so is there any recommendations?

---

Yes you need to get an under tank heater and a thermostat is required. As for monitoring temperatures get a temp gun, makes it much easier when monitoring multiple enclosures. Here’s the section on heating and humidity:)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4ee66e85bb.jpg


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DOWNLOAD - Ultimate Care Guide PDF Version 3
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...2&share_type=t
Hopefully this link works. You can also view it online instead of downloading it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Selvis

Also I've been feeding live prey. I'd prefer tp feed thawed but the previous owner said once you feed them live you can't switch to pre killed. Has this been the case in your experience?

---

This is bunk. Boas are typically garbage disposals and have no problem switching over to frozen/thaw feeders. Also, when your boa is an adult you do not want to be putting live XL or jumbo rats in with it as they can do a lot of damage to a snake.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MarkL1561

DOWNLOAD - Ultimate Care Guide PDF Version 3
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...2&share_type=t
Hopefully this link works. You can also view it online instead of downloading it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

Thanks! I'm about to read up on that. I'll be sure to order a heat mat with the thermostat. Should I get two mats? One for the cool end and one for hot?

If I were to place the heat mat on the cool end and set it to 75 degree s would that be a good way to fix my problem on that end?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bcr229

This is bunk. Boas are typically garbage disposals and have no problem switching over to frozen/thaw feeders. Also, when your boa is an adult you do not want to be putting live XL or jumbo rats in with it as they can do a lot of damage to a snake.

---

Thanks for the reply . That's great! I'll buy her a frozen mouse tomorrow. See how she does. I've noticed she's a very good eater. Nothing like the ball pythons ive kept in the past. Lol

I was thinking about feeding her in a separate enclosure too. Reason being is I have her housed in zoomed forest floor which is Cypress mulch. Last two times she ate she got a huge piece of wood (or whatever that stuff is) stuck in her mouth. They were not little pieces so I didn't want to risk her swallowing them. She struggled with the pieces for a while before I had to gently remove them from her mouth (which sucked bc I could tell it stressed her).

Would feeding her in a separate tub with no substrate be ok?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Selvis

Thanks for the reply . That's great! I'll buy her a frozen mouse tomorrow. See how she does. I've noticed she's a very good eater. Nothing like the ball pythons ive kept in the past. Lol

I was thinking about feeding her in a separate enclosure too. Reason being is I have her housed in zoomed forest floor which is Cypress mulch. Last two times she ate she got a huge piece of wood (or whatever that stuff is) stuck in her mouth. They were not little pieces so I didn't want to risk her swallowing them. She struggled with the pieces for a while before I had to gently remove them from her mouth (which sucked bc I could tell it stressed her).

Would feeding her in a separate tub with no substrate be ok?

---

Feeding in separate tubs used to be the norm many years ago, but that practice isn’t as common any longer. The snake can get stressed from being moved and refuse to eat, but a bigger issue is that many boas remain “on” after feeding increasing the likelihood of a bite. If you are concerned about the substrate, you can place a piece of cardboard down before you feed. There’s still no guarantee your little one won’t drag the prey around though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Selvis

Thanks! I'm about to read up on that. I'll be sure to order a heat mat with the thermostat. Should I get two mats? One for the cool end and one for hot?

If I were to place the heat mat on the cool end and set it to 75 degree s would that be a good way to fix my problem on that end?

---

What is your enclosure again? Also, I agree with the feeding suggestions, both size and F/T, etc. However, DO NOT FEED UNTIL YOU HAVE TEMPS and Humidity DIALED IN!

BCI's need 84-85F+ to fully digest a meal. At 81-82F your Boa might not be able to digest properly and could regurgitate. This is a big problem for BCC's specifically, but can be for BCI's too, especially at a young age. Boas can die from regurgitation syndrome. Better to wait a bit and feed the right size meal and have the correct temps than risk it.

Here at the basics for BCI's:

1. Temps: 86-89F hot spot, ambient about 80-82F, and cool side 78F-80F.

Humidity needs to be relatively high for them, so temps should not drop below 78F IMO. 75F is the absolute minimum anywhere in a BCI enclosure, and with high humidity, anything lower, and you are asking for trouble. Aim for 78F as the lowest temp.

2. ALL HEATING ELEMENTS NEED A THERMOSTAT!

I would get a dual thermostat now (one that can run two devices, or more). Get a good one. Better to spend a few extra dollars now and have a happy, healthy, and alive snake for a long time.

I would run one zone for the UTH you will get for the hot side and keep that at 87-89F.

I would use the lamp and run a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) all the time and aim to have temps on the ground around 82-83F in the middle of the tank. That should keep the cool side about 78F.

3. Snakes need safe places/hides - especially young ones.

Do you have identical and snug hides on both warm side and cool side? If not, get them.

4. Humidity - 50% minimum. Aim for 60-70% with 70-80% in shed.


A few other things:

1. Hook train. Boas are very food driven and when she gets big, you don't want to be mistaken for a meal.

2. GET A TEMP GUN! It is the best way to get ground temps. DO NOT RELY on your thermostat probe or an air thermometer.

3. Be prepared to get a large enclosure (4X2' is an absolute minimum IMO for a female BCI - more like 5X2' or 6X2') with proper heating elements (UTH/Heat tape and/or RHP).

4. Feed with tongs.



I am trying to give it you straight and not to give you a hard time. Bottom line, follow the above and you will be in good shape.

If you have questions or need clarification, please ask. We are here to help.

I can also provide links to my female BCI's, Behira, thread, and my male BCC's thread (Feliz). I have a hook training video on here, and I can provide the link for that as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dakski

What is your enclosure again? Also, I agree with the feeding suggestions, both size and F/T, etc. However, DO NOT FEED UNTIL YOU HAVE TEMPS and Humidity DIALED IN!

BCI's need 84-85F+ to fully digest a meal. At 81-82F your Boa might not be able to digest properly and could regurgitate. This is a big problem for BCC's specifically, but can be for BCI's too, especially at a young age. Boas can die from regurgitation syndrome. Better to wait a bit and feed the right size meal and have the correct temps than risk it.

Here at the basics for BCI's:

1. Temps: 86-89F hot spot, ambient about 80-82F, and cool side 78F-80F.

Humidity needs to be relatively high for them, so temps should not drop below 78F IMO. 75F is the absolute minimum anywhere in a BCI enclosure, and with high humidity, anything lower, and you are asking for trouble. Aim for 78F as the lowest temp.

2. ALL HEATING ELEMENTS NEED A THERMOSTAT!

I would get a dual thermostat now (one that can run two devices, or more). Get a good one. Better to spend a few extra dollars now and have a happy, healthy, and alive snake for a long time.

I would run one zone for the UTH you will get for the hot side and keep that at 87-89F.

I would use the lamp and run a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) all the time and aim to have temps on the ground around 82-83F in the middle of the tank. That should keep the cool side about 78F.

3. Snakes need safe places/hides - especially young ones.

Do you have identical and snug hides on both warm side and cool side? If not, get them.

4. Humidity - 50% minimum. Aim for 60-70% with 70-80% in shed.


A few other things:

1. Hook train. Boas are very food driven and when she gets big, you don't want to be mistaken for a meal.

2. GET A TEMP GUN! It is the best way to get ground temps. DO NOT RELY on your thermostat probe or an air thermometer.

3. Be prepared to get a large enclosure (4X2' is an absolute minimum IMO for a female BCI - more like 5X2' or 6X2') with proper heating elements (UTH/Heat tape and/or RHP).

4. Feed with tongs.



I am trying to give it you straight and not to give you a hard time. Bottom line, follow the above and you will be in good shape.

If you have questions or need clarification, please ask. We are here to help.

I can also provide links to my female BCI's, Behira, thread, and my male BCC's thread (Feliz). I have a hook training video on here, and I can provide the link for that as well.

---

Wow thanks for that reply! That was really informative! And just wanna say really appreciate you and everyone else giving helpful advice. Glad there's a place like this
I should have came on here sooner but I trusted what the previous owners said... Which looks to be a mistake. Well I'm gonna get all that stuff on payday (Wednesday)

When it comes to the heating stuff I have to admit I'm a bit Lost. https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Tempe...48909153&psc=1 so I could buy a thermostat like the one linked? And then buy a heat mat and plug the heat mat into the thermostat? And there will be a switch or something I assume that will allow me to regulate the temp? So I would put this at the warm end with the lamp.

And then where would the heat lamp and cermaic heat emitter come into play? Would I leave the lamp the way it is? Sorry I've never really had experience with any of this stuff.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Selvis

Wow thanks for that reply! That was really informative! And just wanna say really appreciate you and everyone else giving helpful advice. Glad there's a place like this
I should have came on here sooner but I trusted what the previous owners said... Which looks to be a mistake. Well I'm gonna get all that stuff on payday (Wednesday)

When it comes to the heating stuff I have to admit I'm a bit Lost. https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Tempe...48909153&psc=1 so I could buy a thermostat like the one linked? And then buy a heat mat and plug the heat mat into the thermostat? And there will be a switch or something I assume that will allow me to regulate the temp? So I would put this at the warm end with the lamp.

And then where would the heat lamp and cermaic heat emitter come into play? Would I leave the lamp the way it is? Sorry I've never really had experience with any of this stuff.

---

First, you want this thermostat.

https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...products_id=76


Secondly, the probe goes between the UTH and the bottom of the tank.

The probe for the CHE should go in the tank about halfway down, but close to the substrate. If it's a screen top, and does not have a cutout for a probe wire, you can put between screen and CHE. I don't recommend this, but have done in a pinch in the past as to not upset the integrity of a screen top. There is always a big difference between probe and floor temp in this instance. Huge difference.

Currently, and temporarily, I am running that for Toref, my monitor. It read 100F at the probe, but is 85F at the ground 12 inches below.

The temps at the probe when not directly touching the heating element, like a UTH, will have a discrepancy between its reading and the actual ground temp.

That's where the temp gun comes in. For example, the temp gun may read 84F on the ground, but the thermostat say 88F. That's fine.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dakski

First, you want this thermostat.

https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...products_id=76


Secondly, the probe goes between the UTH and the bottom of the tank.

The probe for the CHE should go in the tank about halfway down, but close to the substrate. If it's a screen top, and does not have a cutout for a probe wire, you can put between screen and CHE. I don't recommend this, but have done in a pinch in the past as to not upset the integrity of a screen top. There is always a big difference between probe and floor temp in this instance. Huge difference.

Currently, and temporarily, I am running that for Toref, my monitor. It read 100F at the probe, but is 85F at the ground 12 inches below.

The temps at the probe when not directly touching the heating element, like a UTH, will have a discrepancy between its reading and the actual ground temp.

That's where the temp gun comes in. For example, the temp gun may read 84F on the ground, but the thermostat say 88F. That's fine.

---

Ok cool. I'll pick that one up then. I'm still not sure on a few things though

So would I keep the heat lamp I already use? And I'm not too familiar with che. That's like a bulb you put into a lamp? Do u have a recommendation for a good che?

Also where should I place the heat mat? In the middle of the cage? Or far end?

And the probes . Are those the things you stick into the substrate that measure temperature? Sorry for any dumb questions lol like I said I'm not too familiar with these type things


http://imgur.com/gallery/Emd9C6g here's a pic of my cage btw

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Selvis

Ok cool. I'll pick that one up then. I'm still not sure on a few things though

So would I keep the heat lamp I already use? And I'm not too familiar with che. That's like a bulb you put into a lamp? Do u have a recommendation for a good che?

Also where should I place the heat mat? In the middle of the cage? Or far end?

And the probes . Are those the things you stick into the substrate that measure temperature? Sorry for any dumb questions lol like I said I'm not too familiar with these type things


http://imgur.com/gallery/Emd9C6g here's a pic of my cage btw

---

That at heat lamp looks small. You might need a bigger one.

A CHE is like a bulb and screws in the same socket.

I would recommend a wider/bigger dome and a 60 watt CHE thermostat controlled.

Probes measure temps for a thermostat. They never go in the substrate.

please get a temp gun.

UTH goes on hot side. Lamp/dome goes in the middle of the tank or a little closer to the hot side, depending. You will have to experiment.

Also. What is securing your top? You definitely want screen top latches to secure. If not, all of this is for naught. Your snake WILL escape.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...=1RQODLBTEU5KA

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Selvis

Thanks for the reply . That's great! I'll buy her a frozen mouse tomorrow. See how she does. I've noticed she's a very good eater. Nothing like the ball pythons ive kept in the past. Lol

I was thinking about feeding her in a separate enclosure too. Reason being is I have her housed in zoomed forest floor which is Cypress mulch. Last two times she ate she got a huge piece of wood (or whatever that stuff is) stuck in her mouth. They were not little pieces so I didn't want to risk her swallowing them. She struggled with the pieces for a while before I had to gently remove them from her mouth (which sucked bc I could tell it stressed her).

Would feeding her in a separate tub with no substrate be ok?

---

Try coco fiber/husk. I put down a layer of eco earth first then coco husk on top. This helps to keep the humidity up while avoiding conditions that are too damp. The eco earth stays more moist under the husk. Also the husk is soft and doesn’t seem to get in their mouth. My guy likes to climb at night though so when I feed him he isn’t on the bottom of the enclosure. If you feed in a separate tub you will have to handle your snake when it’s in feeding mode and while it’s got a rat in it’s gut. Also you shouldn’t need two under tank heaters unless you keep your house cool.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dakski

First, you want this thermostat.

https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...products_id=76


Secondly, the probe goes between the UTH and the bottom of the tank.

The probe for the CHE should go in the tank about halfway down, but close to the substrate. If it's a screen top, and does not have a cutout for a probe wire, you can put between screen and CHE. I don't recommend this, but have done in a pinch in the past as to not upset the integrity of a screen top. There is always a big difference between probe and floor temp in this instance. Huge difference.

Currently, and temporarily, I am running that for Toref, my monitor. It read 100F at the probe, but is 85F at the ground 12 inches below.

The temps at the probe when not directly touching the heating element, like a UTH, will have a discrepancy between its reading and the actual ground temp.

That's where the temp gun comes in. For example, the temp gun may read 84F on the ground, but the thermostat say 88F. That's fine.

---

Yeah.... I got my thermostat off Amazon for like $30 and it works great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Selvis

Ok cool. I'll pick that one up then. I'm still not sure on a few things though

So would I keep the heat lamp I already use? And I'm not too familiar with che. That's like a bulb you put into a lamp? Do u have a recommendation for a good che?

Also where should I place the heat mat? In the middle of the cage? Or far end?

And the probes . Are those the things you stick into the substrate that measure temperature? Sorry for any dumb questions lol like I said I'm not too familiar with these type things


http://imgur.com/gallery/Emd9C6g here's a pic of my cage btw

---

Place the UTH on the hot side. Also get some more foliage for her to hide. Also CHE bulbs get extremely hot so be careful of burns. Since you have a screen top you can get a holder/arm to keep it a few inches above your screen.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dakski

That at heat lamp looks small. You might need a bigger one.

A CHE is like a bulb and screws in the same socket.

I would recommend a wider/bigger dome and a 60 watt CHE thermostat controlled.

Probes measure temps for a thermostat. They never go in the substrate.

please get a temp gun.

UTH goes on hot side. Lamp/dome goes in the middle of the tank or a little closer to the hot side, depending. You will have to experiment.

Also. What is securing your top? You definitely want screen top latches to secure. If not, all of this is for naught. Your snake WILL escape.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...=1RQODLBTEU5KA

---

Ok so just so I'm clear - Ill be replacing the heat lamp with the che? I won't be using both right?

And twill I need another thermostat just for the che? Also what siz e dome should I get?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Selvis

Ok so just so I'm clear - Ill be replacing the heat lamp with the che? I won't be using both right?

And twill I need another thermostat just for the che? Also what siz e dome should I get?

---

The size of the dome isn’t as vital as what watt it can handle. Make sure it’s built for whatever watt bulb you need. Personally I think I’d rather invest in an radiant heat panel. I really don’t like CHE’s because they get ridiculously hot and are a burn and fire hazard. Currently my enclosures ambient temp is right around 90 on hot end and 82 on cool end with just a UTH and a daylight heat bulb. The ground temp is around 98 right where the UTH is. His enclosure is large enough that he has plenty of room to thermoregulate. At night the cool end dips to about 78 though so.... I may end up getting another UTH or RHP. The nice thing about RHP’s is that the snake can directly touch it and not get burnt.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by MarkL1561

The size of the dome isn’t as vital as what watt it can handle. Make sure it’s built for whatever watt bulb you need. Personally I think I’d rather invest in an radiant heat panel. I really don’t like CHE’s because they get ridiculously hot and are a burn and fire hazard. Currently my enclosures ambient temp is right around 90 on hot end and 82 on cool end with just a UTH and a daylight heat bulb. The ground temp is around 98 right where the UTH is. His enclosure is large enough that he has plenty of room to thermoregulate. At night the cool end dips to about 78 though so.... I may end up getting another UTH or RHP. The nice thing about RHP’s is that the snake can directly touch it and not get burnt.


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Ok so would this be a good panel http://www.lllreptile.com/products/1...ant-heat-panel

And do you just put that on the top of the enclosure? And then plug it into a thermostat?

I agree, RHP are far superior. They do not dry the air as much and are safer, last longer, and more consistent.

HOWEVER, this is a screen top 20G tank. For that, a CHE with a GOOD thermostat, should work well. A $30 thermostat works until it doesn't and you are risking your animal to save a few bucks. Is it better than nothing, yes, until it fails.

Down the road, please think about a Boaphile or AP cage with an RHP. Much better for the long term.

Additionally, the size of the dome does matter.

Smaller domes usually handle only small wattage bulbs. Secondly, and more importantly, the wider the dome, the more the heat reflects and spreads out in the tank. You don't want the CHE for a hot spot - you have the UTH for that. You want it to raise ambient air and ground temps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Selvis

Ok so would this be a good panel http://www.lllreptile.com/products/1...ant-heat-panel

And do you just put that on the top of the enclosure? And then plug it into a thermostat?

---

Radiant heat panels are meant to be screwed to the ceiling of wood, melamine, or PVC enclosures, not put on top of a screen-top glass tank like a heat lamp or CHE.

When your snake outgrow the tank, which won't be all that far in the future, I would strongly suggest investing in something like an Animal Plastics T8 or similarly-sized PVC enclosure as your boa's next home. Your boa will never outgrow it and you will find it much easier to maintain the proper heat and humidity. That's the enclosure where you would use an RHP.

Thank you bcr229. A voice of reason.

If you’re looking for an affordable enclosure look at DYI critter condos. I got mine 4’x2’x2’ for less than $300. So far my only compliant is that my fluorescent fixture stopped working so I had to order a replacement for $30 [emoji2371] Also, the thermostat I have is very nice and wasn’t as expensive because it’s not a “reptile” brand.
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Originally Posted by MarkL1561

If you’re looking for an affordable enclosure look at DYI critter condos. I got mine 4’x2’x2’ for less than $300. So far my only compliant is that my fluorescent fixture stopped working so I had to order a replacement for $30 [emoji2371] Also, the thermostat I have is very nice and wasn’t as expensive because it’s not a “reptile” brand.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4bc9090796.jpg


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Thanks I'll definitely look into getting one of those cages soon. Could you guys give me a link for a good Che and a dome? And also a good heat mat? Just wanna make sure I'm getting the right stuff. And would you recommend ordering thm online? Or going to a place like Petco to get them?

Thanks again 😊

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MarkL1561

If you’re looking for an affordable enclosure look at DYI critter condos. I got mine 4’x2’x2’ for less than $300. So far my only compliant is that my fluorescent fixture stopped working so I had to order a replacement for $30 [emoji2371] Also, the thermostat I have is very nice and wasn’t as expensive because it’s not a “reptile” brand.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4bc9090796.jpg


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That red tail is beautiful btw! How old is he/she?

He was born in July 2018 so he’s just a baby, 27” currently. He’s a red pastel BCI boa I got from Perfect Predators.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ce1c9778b9.jpg

Here’s a better picture of the enclosure. For the price I think they’re quite nice although I wouldn’t be comfortable stacking them. If you plan on stacking cages, then visions are probably more heavy duty.
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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Selvis

Thanks I'll definitely look into getting one of those cages soon. Could you guys give me a link for a good Che and a dome? And also a good heat mat? Just wanna make sure I'm getting the right stuff. And would you recommend ordering thm online? Or going to a place like Petco to get them?

Thanks again [emoji4]

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I’d order online as it’s typically cheaper. Make sure that the snake can not ever touch the che. If he/she is exploring at night and pushes on the screen where the che is severe burns could result. They make brackets that can hold your dome above the screen. I believe I have a zoomed heat mat? I ordered the large size due to the enclosure size but you might need a smaller one. Then look to get a digital thermostat. If you have a temp probe put it below the substrate to monitor temperature to make sure it doesn’t get to hot if your snake burrows. The temp gun is better for surface temps. The thermostat probe goes directly on the heater or you could do it under the substrate as well.


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Exo Terra Lamp Holder Bracket for Reptiles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007D1BUJY..._vljDCbQ436QA5
Exo Terra Mirror Dome Light, 7-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041OU75O..._BmjDCb2QWQWWA
Zoo Med ReptiTherm Under Tank Heater, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQCLO..._onjDCbG12AHTA
Century Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing, 40-108°F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM..._hpjDCbWQDF3TA


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