Need advice

This is my first snake, and I'm still slightly nervous of being tagged, because -- human. I want to make sure I have this set up at least nearly correct

Enclosure: https://imgur.com/a/zxX45ZU
I continuously on a 12 hour cycle run red/white light on a dimmer, and the ambient temps are 82-86 depending. Cyprus mulch substrate, two probe thermometers one to measure the cold side & one on the hot hide, and then the a third that just gives me a rough estimate of the coldest area & humidity. Approximately 4 days after I acquired said snake it ate, so I thin I'm doing well there. I've got the hot hide set at 89.5 on a thermostat roughly sometimes it'll jump to 90.5, because dumb. However, the snake is absolutely terrified by me. I don't know how to get to the point I can pick him up without him acting like he's going to die. Initially he wasn't to difficult but now he runs constantly since he appears to have gotten more comfortable. I've resigned myself to the fact it's a marathon, and i just rub him and then close the cage now until he shows less fear.

Better image of the enclosure: https://imgur.com/a/9isPZCQ

Exactly how long (how many days) since you brought him home? Always best to do NO handling (or touching) for the first 2 weeks, while they settle in-
and even better to wait until a snake has fed easily at normal intervals for 3 times, which would mean leaving them alone for about a month (if a young
snake that's eating about once a week).

It's no fun having a terrified pet, & no fun for them to bite in self-defense either. Remember to put yourself in his place...his instincts tell him the only thing
that picks him up is a predator about to have him for dinner! :O Snakes DO learn otherwise, but we need to be patient & put their health & welfare first.

The hide on the left in photo is probably fine* but the one on the right doesn't count as a hide, only as cage furniture to climb on. For best results, snakes
need 2 hides, one warm side & one cool side. The one on the right is FAR too open & offers no ability for a snake to hide.

*Hides should not be too much taller (inside) than the snake (when curled up inside) as they prefer "back pressure" (feeling snugged-in), and the doorway
should be just slightly bigger than the snake (with a bulge from a meal). If a hide is too big but not radically-so, you can crumple up a paper towel or 2 &
stuff inside for the snake to feel safer, but the "hide" on the right is, well, hopeless. (lol)

When you offer better cage security (from your snake's viewpoint) it should help him settle down, which is what you want, to keep him eating & also so
you can progress to handling.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Exactly how long (how many days) since you brought him home? Always best to do NO handling (or touching) for the first 2 weeks, while they settle in-
and even better to wait until a snake has fed easily at normal intervals for 3 times, which would mean leaving them alone for about a month (if a young
snake that's eating about once a week).

It's no fun having a terrified pet, & no fun for them to bite in self-defense either. Remember to put yourself in his place...his instincts tell him the only thing
that picks him up is a predator about to have him for dinner! :O Snakes DO learn otherwise, but we need to be patient & put their health & welfare first.

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I've had him approx one week. I picked him up initially when I moved him from a 10 gallon to the 20, and that was simple. I was having a horrid time keeping ambient temps up as surprisingly outside of this forum no one articulated you needed more heat sources than a simple UTH accurately on a glass enclosure (he actually prefers being under the lamp than in the hot hide lol snakes). I placed a paper towel with my scent inside the enclosure so as to better ingratiate myself with this little rat eater (which you'll see in the better photo). He hasn't attempted to bite me, he has been in a strike pose once, but that quickly faded. I believe that was just surprise. I'll do as you say and give more time, but I want to both break my semi fear, and break his. We're learning together unfortunately, so I want to give this the best shot. The hilarity of trying that initial handling was that he squeaked when he was terrified. I was like 'I thought snakes hissed!?' I suppose not this one.

Snakes that "squeak" may have the beginning of a respiratory infection: his immune system is already stressed from being re-homed, so it's very important
for him to have the right temperatures available with the right hides to utilize them. Snakes typically choose to hide rather than the right temperature if not
offered adequate hides.

Which of those hides is on the warm side? If you need the lamp to keep his temps warm enough, then what happens at night? (you should be using either a
red or black bulb, or a CHE (ceramic heat emitter- ie. has no light, just gives off heat).

For the moment, stop worrying about yourself (getting bit) and keep him healthy. A slight RI may disappear if a snake has the right temps. (maybe 1 or 2* higher
than normal) AND is allowed to rest (like you would with a bad cold!). You are very lucky he ate...now let him "settle in" & rest.

Snake bites from harmless snakes are no big deal in terms of damage...most other pets do FAR worse & hurt more. Snake teeth are tiny, bites will startle you
but their teeth are like rows of very tiny pins that you'll feel but that rarely even cause infection. And if you learn to properly show your snake he has nothing to
fear from you, you many never even get bit. Really up to you...to take your time with him. But that's for later...right now his health & feeding is JOB #1.

IF his RI symptoms get worse, you'll need to take him for medication from a reptile specialist veterinarian...better to prevent, right?

Maybe get yourself a little hook or paper towel roll to help “break the ice” when you go in the cage ?

most ball pythons don’t need hook training but if you are nervous and hesitant the same will sense that and it could make the experience nerve wracking for you both.

Also always from the back and below the snake... just an idea for you. Especially as a new owner and new to snakes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Snakes that "squeak" may have the beginning of a respiratory infection: his immune system is already stressed from being re-homed, so it's very important
for him to have the right temperatures available with the right hides to utilize them. Snakes typically choose to hide rather than the right temperature if not
offered adequate hides.

Which of those hides is on the warm side? If you need the lamp to keep his temps warm enough, then what happens at night? (you should be using either a
red or black bulb, or a CHE (ceramic heat emitter- ie. has no light, just gives off heat).

For the moment, stop worrying about yourself (getting bit) and keep him healthy. A slight RI may disappear if a snake has the right temps. (maybe 1 or 2* higher
than normal) AND is allowed to rest (like you would with a bad cold!). You are very lucky he ate...now let him "settle in" & rest.

Snake bites from harmless snakes are no big deal in terms of damage...most other pets do FAR worse & hurt more. Snake teeth are tiny, bites will startle you
but their teeth are like rows of very tiny pins that you'll feel but that rarely even cause infection. And if you learn to properly show your snake he has nothing to
fear from you, you many never even get bit. Really up to you...to take your time with him. But that's for later...right now his health & feeding is JOB #1.

IF his RI symptoms get worse, you'll need to take him for medication from a reptile specialist veterinarian...better to prevent, right?

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I just bumped up his temp to 85 ambient. There is a heat lamp going 24/7 as mentioned in initial post. On 12 hour intervals I use white/red. Once red burns out, I'll switch to moonlight. I did CHE, but I found it hard to evenly heat the entire glass enclosure. It would produce too much heat below the CHE, and it wouldn't heat evenly, so I switched to bulbs. As per RI at no other time does he 'squeak' outside of when he's puffed up, and completely terrified (i spent a lot of time freaking out after he did it) there's no drainage, or mucus etc (thank God). I rearranged the enclosure after your initial comment so that the things he likes are more centered on the heating pad. I'd rather be safe than sorry if indeed you are right that he could be feeling the sniffles so to speak over all the change. Don't get an animal if you can't afford the vet bills, but it is truly better to prevent.

For future reference, you should always set up and test (temps & humidity) the entire enclosure for a week BEFORE you put a snake in it...it takes time to make
sure it's correct & it's better not to stress a new snake while you're tinkering with things. If it's any consolation, this is a typical "new snake owner" mistake. ;)
With a new snake trying to settle in, it's no time to find out your heat sources are inadequate, & finding or ordering additional things that need tested takes time.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

For future reference, you should always set up and test (temps & humidity) the entire enclosure for a week BEFORE you put a snake in it...it takes time to make
sure it's correct & it's better not to stress a new snake while you're tinkering with things. If it's any consolation, this is a typical "new snake owner" mistake. ;)
With a new snake trying to settle in, it's no time to find out your heat sources are inadequate, & finding or ordering additional things that need tested takes time.

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Everything online for the most part takes you 50% of the way to correct, and then you're left scratching your head going *what the hell am I missing!?* The sticky post on 'setting up your glass tank' is likely the reason he ate, and I'm not going to end up at the vet (knock on wood).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Whathaveidone

Everything online for the most part takes you 50% of the way to correct, and then you're left scratching your head going *what the hell am I missing!?* The sticky post on 'setting up your glass tank' is likely the reason he ate, and I'm not going to end up at the vet (knock on wood).

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That's why this forum is here...;) and yeah, I know pet stores aren't very helpful either (usually). BPs are popular pets but not the easiest to "get it right".
(they don't tell you that or you might not buy- pet stores don't want- "can't afford"- to take that chance)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

That's why this forum is here...;) and yeah, I know pet stores aren't very helpful either (usually). BPs are popular pets but not the easiest to "get it right".
(they don't tell you that or you might not buy- pet stores don't want- "can't afford"- to take that chance)

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Started out at 'man 100 bucks +snake and I'm set' to 300 bucks and counting...

I'm presuming it's a Royal Python and as such you shouldn't have to worry too much about being tagged tbh ...


I'll let the others sort out the setup for you :)

I would suggest buying a ten dollar digital temperature gun to help you get and keep your surface temps correct ( especially the one under the hide on the warm side ) .
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Snakes generally need time to settle into their environment. Yours also looks fairly young, so that can add to the defensiveness. But if it makes you feel better, a bite from a snake that size really isn't bad. Honestly. A cat scratch is worse. I think it's more of a psychological thing than anything. But as others have said, go in with a paper towel roll or snake hook once it's ready to be handled. Over time you should be able to decide if that will continue to be necessary or not, depending on temperament. Of our 9 BP's, I feel the need to use a hook on 2.