New BP not eating? Is that normal?

Hi! I got a BP a 4 days ago and based on the PetSmart feeding chart, it hasn't eaten for 26 days (ever since they had it). I tried feeding the BP yesterday and it did not eat the mice that I offered it (I even left it overnight but it didn't eat it /:). Is this normal? Also, the BP does not seem underweight, as it does not have a sharp spine and its body is not triangular-shaped yet. Any help will be appreciated!

You do not feed a BP within 4 days you let it settle for at least a week with no handling and make sure the needs are met before offering food, my advice if the animal is an hatchling and has not ate in 26 days, do this to a T https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-hatchling-101

Im fairly new to this and I'm sure some others will reply who have much more experience than me but........... When you first bring them home you should wait to feed them for a while until they get acclimated to there new environment. They get stressed out very easily. Also when you said you tried to feed a mouse and left it in overnight I hope it wasn't a live mouse. Never leave a live mouse in the enclosure unattended as they can hurt the snake. I am sure people are gonna ask you for the following. What type of enclosure? What are your temp? How are you heating? How are you regulating your heat?


See above post. I was to slow

Not eating right away is not abnormal, however follow the above advice and wait to feed/touch/change hides etc. Also, petsmart is not well known for their 'healthy' animals. Most are underfed, have parasites, are ill, and are highly stressed. I know that my local shops feed pinky mice, which the snake may not even realize is food. Once its settled in, get a weight so you know what size prey to buy. Also, if the refusal continues it could very easily be husbandry related, so a description of your set up will help.

Also is the same petsmart that sold you the very neurologic sick snake? I really hope you threw out everything possible and disinfected the rest thoroughly before getting this new one.

Deborah is quick and on top of things as always! :)
Follow that guide and you should be good. If the little one still doesn't eat for any reason, remember you have that 14 days. Please bring it back if it won't eat on day 13.


But Uggg.... I'm so frustrated that this store isn't doing anything right for you.
They should not have sold that snake to you, or the one before that. It's absolutely nothing that you have done. They are just not following the proper care for the animals there. I'd be tempted to contact the district manager or corporate office and make a complaint if I was in your shoes. Though they did give you a copy of the feeding chart so that's at least a plus. 9_9
Petsmart is supposed to move a snake that hasn't eaten for 14 days from the floor into an isolation room where it is left alone for the week. This means no opening of the cage, just eyeballing if the snake is well and topping off water. If it still won't eat, a vet visit should have happened.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPlant

Hi! I got a BP a 4 days ago and based on the PetSmart feeding chart, it hasn't eaten for 26 days (ever since they had it). I tried feeding the BP yesterday and it did not eat the mice that I offered it (I even left it overnight but it didn't eat it /:). Is this normal? Also, the BP does not seem underweight, as it does not have a sharp spine and its body is not triangular-shaped yet. Any help will be appreciated!

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You're a beginning snake-keeper, right? Besides the fact that the store should not have sold a snake that isn't eating, why on earth did you buy (or exchange for) one
that has no current record of successful feeding? This is sadly setting you up for failure, or at least a MUCH more difficult experience. :confusd:

Personally, I'd have insisted NOT on an exchange for the prior sick BP, but a full refund of my money, and I'd NOT have gotten another snake from that store for
at least a year IF their methods had improved significantly & probably not even then. I understand that you are eager to have a pet ball python, but you need a
healthy snake to start with, and you need to follow the care guidelines* given here by experienced folks who know what they're doing. Sadly, just because a store
SELLS snakes does NOT mean they know what they're doing. I'm not bashing pet stores, as some are excellent & we have members here that work in stores, but
you can't assume they'll all equally safe to buy from. Your previous BP from that location was seriously ill or injured, you'll never know which, & that means their
other snakes may be as well, and just not showing it yet.

*such as allowing enough time for a new snake to settle in before trying to feed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cfd701

Im fairly new to this and I'm sure some others will reply who have much more experience than me but........... When you first bring them home you should wait to feed them for a while until they get acclimated to there new environment. They get stressed out very easily. Also when you said you tried to feed a mouse and left it in overnight I hope it wasn't a live mouse. Never leave a live mouse in the enclosure unattended as they can hurt the snake. I am sure people are gonna ask you for the following. What type of enclosure? What are your temp? How are you heating? How are you regulating your heat?


See above post. I was to slow

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Yup I fed the BP a F/T mouse. I put the BP in a 10 gallon glass aquarium tank. Also, I use a heat mat, regulated by a thermostat (set to 90 degrees), to heat up the warm side of the cage.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crowfingers

Not eating right away is not abnormal, however follow the above advice and wait to feed/touch/change hides etc. Also, petsmart is not well known for their 'healthy' animals. Most are underfed, have parasites, are ill, and are highly stressed. I know that my local shops feed pinky mice, which the snake may not even realize is food. Once its settled in, get a weight so you know what size prey to buy. Also, if the refusal continues it could very easily be husbandry related, so a description of your set up will help.

Also is the same petsmart that sold you the very neurologic sick snake? I really hope you threw out everything possible and disinfected the rest thoroughly before getting this new one.

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The BP came from the PetSmart that had the sick snake. I threw out everything that I used for the sick snake and thoroughly disinfected the cage.

Also, here's a description of the setup!
- 10 gallon glass aquarium tank
- water dish big enough for BP to go in, if needed
- heating mat (with thermostat set to 90 degrees F)
- hide
- rocks for climbing
- aspen bedding

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Armiyana

Deborah is quick and on top of things as always! :)
Follow that guide and you should be good. If the little one still doesn't eat for any reason, remember you have that 14 days. Please bring it back if it won't eat on day 13.


But Uggg.... I'm so frustrated that this store isn't doing anything right for you.
They should not have sold that snake to you, or the one before that. It's absolutely nothing that you have done. They are just not following the proper care for the animals there. I'd be tempted to contact the district manager or corporate office and make a complaint if I was in your shoes. Though they did give you a copy of the feeding chart so that's at least a plus. 9_9
Petsmart is supposed to move a snake that hasn't eaten for 14 days from the floor into an isolation room where it is left alone for the week. This means no opening of the cage, just eyeballing if the snake is well and topping off water. If it still won't eat, a vet visit should have happened.

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Thanks! I'll be sure to read through the guide that Deborah has provided. The BP looks very healthy and is acting normally (no head twists or symptoms of neurological damage). I will make sure to leave it alone for a week.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

You're a beginning snake-keeper, right? Besides the fact that the store should not have sold a snake that isn't eating, why on earth did you buy (or exchange for) one
that has no current record of successful feeding? This is sadly setting you up for failure, or at least a MUCH more difficult experience. :confusd:

Personally, I'd have insisted NOT on an exchange for the prior sick BP, but a full refund of my money, and I'd NOT have gotten another snake from that store for
at least a year IF their methods had improved significantly & probably not even then. I understand that you are eager to have a pet ball python, but you need a
healthy snake to start with, and you need to follow the care guidelines* given here by experienced folks who know what they're doing. Sadly, just because a store
SELLS snakes does NOT mean they know what they're doing. I'm not bashing pet stores, as some are excellent & we have members here that work in stores, but
you can't assume they'll all equally safe to buy from. Your previous BP from that location was seriously ill or injured, you'll never know which, & that means their
other snakes may be as well, and just not showing it yet.

*such as allowing enough time for a new snake to settle in before trying to feed.

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Yes, I am a beginning snake-keeper as this is my first ball python. I'll be sure to leave the snake alone for a week so that it can acclimate to its new environment. Also, I'll bring it back to PetSmart or the vet if the snake continues to not eat or shows signs of sickness. Thank you!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPlant

The BP came from the PetSmart that had the sick snake. I threw out everything that I used for the sick snake and thoroughly disinfected the cage.

Also, here's a description of the setup!
- 10 gallon glass aquarium tank
- water dish big enough for BP to go in, if needed
- heating mat (with thermostat set to 90 degrees F)
- hide
- rocks for climbing
- aspen bedding

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Congratulations on your new snake. Hopefully this experience will go better than the last snake after he has had time to settle in. I understand wanting to save pet store animals because very few stores really know how to care for snakes.

I would start with getting a thermomter and checking your ambient temperature. Unless you keep your house at 80 or more, you will need an auxiliary heat source like a heat lamp.

I didnt have any luck with aspen shavings because it didn’t hold humidity well. Forest Floor or ReptiBark does wonder for humidity. If you get a good gauge like an Accurite gauge, you can keep an eye on humidity and ambient temps. I try to keep my tank between 50-60%

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPlant

Yes, I am a beginning snake-keeper as this is my first ball python. I'll be sure to leave the snake alone for a week so that it can acclimate to its new environment. Also, I'll bring it back to PetSmart or the vet if the snake continues to not eat or shows signs of sickness. Thank you!

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Let's hope it goes better this time :please: Trust me, we all want a successful pet experience for you, and for your new pet to thrive under your care. Do keep reading &
asking questions...we'll help all we can. Ball pythons are often suggested as a good "beginner" snake, because they are pretty, usually docile & stay a nice size, but
their care is harder than many other kinds, & their eating habits can take some getting used to. To your credit, you didn't give up after your unfortunate first attempt.

For any newbies ..

Before you actually purchase a snake please do lots of research and after all that if you do decide to get a Royal / Ball python as a first shake .... the main thing after ensuring it looks healthy is to make certain it's a good , proven feeder .

I only buy off breeders rather than pet stores as I find them more trustworthy ..


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

For any newbies ..

Before you actually purchase a snake please do lots of research and after all that if you do decide to get a Royal / Ball python as a first shake .... the main thing after ensuring it looks healthy is to make certain it's a good , proven feeder .

I only buy off breeders rather than pet stores as I find them more trustworthy ..


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Agreed. Also pet stores don't have the records dating back to the birth that breeders have.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

For any newbies ..

Before you actually purchase a snake please do lots of research and after all that if you do decide to get a Royal / Ball python as a first shake .... the main thing after ensuring it looks healthy is to make certain it's a good , proven feeder .

I only buy off breeders rather than pet stores as I find them more trustworthy ..


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VERY well said, Zinc.

Id leave it alone for a week try feeding absolutely no handling for atleast 3 sucessful meals. Make sure there approperiate size meals no bigger then the widest part of there body. 2 identical hides 1 on cool 1 on warm. Check the temps at the glass to see the temp and adjust thermostat as needed. Black out 3 sides of the tank to make it feel more secure. Ambient temp should be around 80 basking 90. Only going in the cage to do spot cleaning and water changes. Hope this helps.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by SVT Wylde

Congratulations on your new snake. Hopefully this experience will go better than the last snake after he has had time to settle in. I understand wanting to save pet store animals because very few stores really know how to care for snakes.

I would start with getting a thermomter and checking your ambient temperature. Unless you keep your house at 80 or more, you will need an auxiliary heat source like a heat lamp.

I didnt have any luck with aspen shavings because it didn’t hold humidity well. Forest Floor or ReptiBark does wonder for humidity. If you get a good gauge like an Accurite gauge, you can keep an eye on humidity and ambient temps. I try to keep my tank between 50-60%

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Thank you very much for these tips. However, could I possibly use a mix of peat moss (from Lowe's), sphagnum moss, and orchid bark for substrate as an alternative?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dylan_

Id leave it alone for a week try feeding absolutely no handling for atleast 3 sucessful meals. Make sure there approperiate size meals no bigger then the widest part of there body. 2 identical hides 1 on cool 1 on warm. Check the temps at the glass to see the temp and adjust thermostat as needed. Black out 3 sides of the tank to make it feel more secure. Ambient temp should be around 80 basking 90. Only going in the cage to do spot cleaning and water changes. Hope this helps.

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Thanks! I'll be sure to do this ASAP.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPlant

Thanks! I'll be sure to do this ASAP.

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No problem also make sure humidity is no lower then 50% around 70% when in shed. I learned the hard way any little thing can stress them out and if there stressed they will refuse food. Moving to a new home os vwry stressful on them and they tend to refuse food for a week or 2 sometimes longer depending on the bp and how the setup is. Ive done both glass and tubs and honestly the tubs are way easier and the feeding response u get is actually insanly high. I converted back to tanks for display reasons. There a very stubborn snake i learned that very fast and the slightest thing they dont like can throw them off feed.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPlant

Thank you very much for these tips. However, could I possibly use a mix of peat moss (from Lowe's), sphagnum moss, and orchid bark for substrate as an alternative?

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Not peat moss, but sphagnum moss +/or orchid bark = :gj:

Hey guys. Update:
I just tried feeding the BP a warm F/T mouse but it didn't strike it again so I'm leaving it overnight. However, I am now starting to wonder if the BP is not eating because it's winter and the temps are lower? I've heard that ball pythons usually fast during winter and I'm wondering if this is the case.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...=w1251-h938-no
Here's a pic of the enclosure. (water dish has some aspen in it because some fell in) (heating mat is on right side of the tank (below the right hide, set at 91 degrees) (also the BP is under the right hide right now, with the mouse that i left right outside)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPlant

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...=w1251-h938-no
Here's a pic of the enclosure. (water dish has some aspen in it because some fell in) (heating mat is on right side of the tank (below the right hide, set at 91 degrees) (also the BP is under the right hide right now, with the mouse that i left right outside)

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First off I'm presuming that the heat source is regulated by a thermostat...


Soooo .. out of interest that stick on thermometer/hygrometer is gonna give you wildly inaccurate humidity readings and will only give you very approximate air temps !! Sorry but they're basically just useless .

I'm wondering if it's just too warm in there tbh ...

Apologies I haven't read all through the thread - just seen the thread title and saw that photo ( I'm ill with the FLU ) ..

What's that black wire down the right side ( in the viv) attached to ??

Is it a heat mat or a thermostat probe or a thermometer or what ?

Hopefully you also have a digital thermometer with a probe or a digital temp gun to check those crucial SURFACE temps .
Visually ..... there's far too much OPEN space to make a Royal / Ball python feel safe and secure ..
I'd get some branches and bark pieces from any local parks or woods .... plus buy some cheap , fake plastic/ silk plants and foliage .
Charity shops or Pound/Dollar stores have them .

I'd get everything sorted out in the viv ... then leave the snake totally alone for ten days then ask us again for feeding tips ...

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

First off I'm presuming that the heat source is regulated by a thermostat...


Soooo .. out of interest that stick on thermometer/hygrometer is gonna give you wildly inaccurate humidity readings and will only give you very approximate air temps !! Sorry but they're basically just useless .

I'm wondering if it's just too warm in there tbh ...

Apologies I haven't read all through the thread - just seen the thread title and saw that photo ( I'm ill with the FLU ) ..

What's that black wire down the right side ( in the viv) attached to ??

Is it a heat mat or a thermostat probe or a thermometer or what ?

Hopefully you also have a digital thermometer with a probe or a digital temp gun to check those crucial SURFACE temps .
Visually ..... there's far too much OPEN space to make a Royal / Ball python feel safe and secure ..
I'd get some branches and bark pieces from any local parks or woods .... plus buy some cheap , fake plastic/ silk plants and foliage .
Charity shops or Pound/Dollar stores have them .

I'd get everything sorted out in the viv ... then leave the snake totally alone for ten days then ask us again for feeding tips ...

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The black wire is connected to the thermostat probe, which is placed on the glass where the UTH is under (it's outside the tank btw). Thanks for the info about the analog hydro/thermometer. I'll be sure to return it and get a digital one. I will also get some branches outside in the morning. However, is it normal for ball pythons to not eat during the winter? Thanks for your help!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPlant

The black wire is connected to the thermostat probe, which is placed on the glass where the UTH is under (it's outside the tank btw). Thanks for the info about the analog hydro/thermometer. I'll be sure to return it and get a digital one. I will also get some branches outside in the morning. However, is it normal for ball pythons to not eat during the winter? Thanks for your help!

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Mine eat all through the year ...

It's worth bearing in mind that the thermostat setting / reading is only a guide ... the actual heat under the warm hide could be dangerously high , sadly ..

Put your hand under the warm hide , flat on the floor ... leave it for a few seconds ... does it feel quite warm or barely warm ??


You need to know the surface temps at the warmest places

A cheap digital thermometer with a wired probe is vital to take the surface temps

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bc73633ec.jpeg

Try and get a digital temp gun off eBay or Amazon or wherever- they're ten dollars roughly ..https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d2be96d63.jpeg

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Fasting in the winter is normal for older ball pythons. The ones petsmart sells are often hatchlings or just past hatchlings. Mine didn't start to fast until his 2nd winter - he was 700g around then. Younger snakes don't have the reserves to go months without food. I'd HIGHLY recommend getting a temp gun (they are like $15 on amazon) and at least three digital thermometers - one for inside each hide and one for the mid-tank "ambient" temp. Make sure the probes are at snake level - measuring a few inches above the substrate does nothing for knowing what temps the snake is at. Also get a digital hygrometer - it's the only way to be accurate.

My guess is the snake is either too cold (ambient temps too low) or the surface inside the hot hide is too hot - possibly a combination of both. If you are going to go with a cage as small as a 10 gal to start with, you may as well switch to a tub. It's easier to heat / maintain humidity, and darker for less stress. Since your husbandry is already off a little, I'd not try and switch to a bigger tank until you can maintain a smaller one.

A UTH pad will do nothing for ambient temps, but in such a small area adding a heat lamp / CHE could easily over-heat the tank. You will have to start with a low wattage bulb - CHE is what I'd recommend but you will have to work to keep humidity up in a tank with aspen bedding - and this heat source would have to have its own thermostat or at least be on an adjustable dimmer. You'll want the ambient tank temps to be above 77*F and below 82* (other members may suggest something a little different)

Baby bp should not be fasting in winter. Mine is almost a year old and still eating.

Deborah, the first person who responded to you, gave you a solution to your problem. It works. You need to give that a chance if you truly want your bp to start eating.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

I'd get some branches and bark pieces from any local parks or woods .... plus buy some cheap , fake plastic/ silk plants and foliage .

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Make sure to sterilize anything you bring in from outside sources before putting it in with your snake!

For wood and bark: Easiest way is to scrub it really well with soap and water, then drop it on a cooking sheet in the oven for a few hours at 200 degrees. Do Not Leave It Alone. It can still be a fire hazard of left unattended.
Do not cook rocks cause they can explode. You want to soak them in bleach for 24 hours, then rinse them fully before letting them dry completely.

But that will kill off any bugs or bacteria lurking on there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

Mine eat all through the year ...

It's worth bearing in mind that the thermostat setting / reading is only a guide ... the actual heat under the warm hide could be dangerously high , sadly ..

Put your hand under the warm hide , flat on the floor ... leave it for a few seconds ... does it feel quite warm or barely warm ??


You need to know the surface temps at the warmest places

A cheap digital thermometer with a wired probe is vital to take the surface temps

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bc73633ec.jpeg

Try and get a digital temp gun off eBay or Amazon or wherever- they're ten dollars roughly ..https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d2be96d63.jpeg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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I touched the heating pad and it's only a little warm (nothing near burning). I will go find a digital hydro/thermometer today and a heat gun. Thanks for your help!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cheesenugget

Baby bp should not be fasting in winter. Mine is almost a year old and still eating.

Deborah, the first person who responded to you, gave you a solution to your problem. It works. You need to give that a chance if you truly want your bp to start eating.

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If I were to switch to a smaller plastic tub like Deborah suggested, wouldn't be dangerous to put the UTH under it because it might melt plastic?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPlant

If I were to switch to a smaller plastic tub like Deborah suggested, wouldn't be dangerous to put the UTH under it because it might melt plastic?

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The uth should be controlled by a thermostat. Plastic tubs wont melt untill like something like 200f a uth on a thermostat wont reach temps high enough to melt the plastic. I used pads and 2 tubs for my 2 ball pythoms before i put them back in tanks and never once did they melt.

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If not higher then 200f im giving an example

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPlant

I touched the heating pad and it's only a little warm (nothing near burning). I will go find a digital hydro/thermometer today and a heat gun. Thanks for your help!

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The thing is they recommend no higher than 92F and you are 98.4F but hopefully it's not tooo hot .

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

The thing is they recommend no higher than 92F and you are 98.4F but hopefully it's not tooo hot .

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Oh but my heat mat is not 98.4 F! It says on the thermostat that it's <= 91 F (never goes higher and the probe is directly on top of the glass so it should be accurate).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPlant

Oh but my heat mat is not 98.4 F! It says on the thermostat that it's <= 91 F (never goes higher and the probe is directly on top of the glass so it should be accurate).

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Thw probes inside the enclosure on the glass?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dylan_

Thw probes inside the enclosure on the glass?

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Yup.

- - - Updated - - -

Also, I was wondering if an IR temp gun could read both ambient room temperature and also surface temperature. Or is it just surface temperature?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPlant

Yup.

- - - Updated - - -

Also, I was wondering if an IR temp gun could read both ambient room temperature and also surface temperature. Or is it just surface temperature?

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The prob should not be inside the enclosure either sandwished inbetween the uth and the glass or attacthed to the button of the uth if the uth is adhesive and already stuck. I do mine under neath personally so there isnt a bubble. And ir guns check surface tempatures.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dylan_

The prob should not be inside the enclosure either sandwished inbetween the uth and the glass or attacthed to the button of the uth if the uth is adhesive and already stuck. I do mine under neath personally so there isnt a bubble. And ir guns check surface tempatures.

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Oh so the probe is more accurate when its in between the UTH and glass, rather than on the glass inside the enclosure? I thought it would be more accurate if it were on the glass inside the enclosure.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPlant

Oh so the probe is more accurate when its in between the UTH and glass, rather than on the glass inside the enclosure? I thought it would be more accurate if it were on the glass inside the enclosure.

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The reason it shouldnt be inside is because the snake can move it pee on it or anything and make it inaccurate and cause it to over heat and burn the snake

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dylan_

The reason it shouldnt be inside is because the snake can move it pee on it or anything and make it inaccurate and cause it to over heat and burn the snake

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Ohh okay! I just sandwiched the probe and set the thermostat to 90 F!

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...=w1251-h938-no

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...=w1251-h938-no

BTW here are some pics of the BP! To me, he doesn't look underweight at all, despite not eating for a long time. (I can see a bit of his spine but it's not the triangular shape yet)
Also, he came out exploring after 15 minutes of me putting the probe in between the UTH and glass!

Does it look underweight to you guys though? My judgement probably is not correct.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPlant

Ohh okay! I just sandwiched the probe and set the thermostat to 90 F!

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...=w1251-h938-no

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...=w1251-h938-no

BTW here are some pics of the BP! To me, he doesn't look underweight at all, despite not eating for a long time. (I can see a bit of his spine but it's not the triangular shape yet)
Also, he came out exploring after 15 minutes of me putting the probe in between the UTH and glass!

Update: I just weighed the BP on a scale and its 67 grams. Here are some pics of it.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...8=w153-h204-no
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...Y=w704-h938-no
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...F=w704-h938-no


Does it look underweight to you guys though? My judgement probably is not correct.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPlant

Ohh okay! I just sandwiched the probe and set the thermostat to 90 F!

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...=w1251-h938-no

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...=w1251-h938-no

BTW here are some pics of the BP! To me, he doesn't look underweight at all, despite not eating for a long time. (I can see a bit of his spine but it's not the triangular shape yet)
Also, he came out exploring after 15 minutes of me putting the probe in between the UTH and glass!

Does it look underweight to you guys though? My judgement probably is not correct.

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Im still new to ball pythons my self but it looks healthy to me. Other people here would have a way better idea on how healthy it looks. Youd probably need closer up photos of its girth and stuff

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPlant

Ohh okay! I just sandwiched the probe and set the thermostat to 90 F!

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...=w1251-h938-no

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...=w1251-h938-no

BTW here are some pics of the BP! To me, he doesn't look underweight at all, despite not eating for a long time. (I can see a bit of his spine but it's not the triangular shape yet)
Also, he came out exploring after 15 minutes of me putting the probe in between the UTH and glass!

Does it look underweight to you guys though? My judgement probably is not correct.

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I'm no expert but he looks fine and dandy !

Incidentally it's important to know / understand that the temp setting you keep referring to on your stat / thermostat is just a guide and the actual surface temp could be anything !!

When you get a digital thermometer with a wired probe and /or a digital temp gun you use them to take the actual surface temperature THEN adjust the thermostat accordingly ..

Hope that makes sense .. I'm dyslexic/Aspergers and rubbish with words !!


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Originally Posted by Dylan_

Im still new to ball pythons my self but it looks healthy to me. Other people here would have a way better idea on how healthy it looks. Youd probably need closer up photos of its girth and stuff

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Thanks for your insight! I put more close up photos on the updated post.

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

I'm no expert but he looks fine and dandy !

Incidentally it's important to know / understand that the temp setting you keep referring to on your stat / thermostat is just a guide and the actual surface temp could be anything !!

When you get a digital thermometer with a wired probe and /or a digital temp gun you use them to take the actual surface temperature THEN adjust the thermostat accordingly ..

Hope that makes sense .. I'm dyslexic/Aspergers and rubbish with words !!


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Thanks! I'll be sure to get a temp gun soon, in addition to a hydro/thermometer.

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Originally Posted by DPlant

Thanks for your insight! I put more close up photos on the updated post.

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Thanks! I'll be sure to get a temp gun soon, in addition to a hydro/thermometer.

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Yeah looks okay to me. If she or he doesent start eating in the next little bit id keep an eye on the weight to make sure the weight isnt dropping to low

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Originally Posted by DPlant

Thanks for your insight! I put more close up photos on the updated post.

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Thanks! I'll be sure to get a temp gun soon, in addition to a hydro/thermometer.

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Any thermometer should have a wired probe not just a stand alone one ;)


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Originally Posted by Dylan_

Yeah looks okay to me. If she or he doesent start eating in the next little bit id keep an eye on the weight to make sure the weight isnt dropping to low

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Alright! If I were to measure it next week, what should its weight be if its 67 g as of now? It's weight shouldn't drop too much even if it hasn't eaten for a week right?

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

Any thermometer should have a wired probe not just a stand alone one ;)


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Got it! Thanks!

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Originally Posted by DPlant

Alright! If I were to measure it next week, what should its weight be if its 67 g as of now? It's weight shouldn't drop too much even if it hasn't eaten for a week right?

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I would wait a few weeks before weighing and if she/he starts eating wait untill after a bowl movement to weigh so u get weight of empty stomach. The weight should not drop in a week

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