Heavy Duty, Adjustable/Flexible DIY Snake Rack!

Hi everyone!

I have finally gotten to the point that I can publish a guide for my latest project. It's been in the works for a few months now (although skydnay is the only one on here who knew about it before this post).

This rack is inspired by a single photo from a 10 year old kingsnake.com forum post by user zach_whitman. I couldn't track down any additional guide or info about it aside from a few pictures, so this is all my own design based on his pictured rack. (There is a link to that thread in the top section of the Google Doc guide for reference)

It has quite a long write up, so I put it together in a Google Doc to try and protect the pictures from being deleted in the future and make it easier for folks to download and use as a building guide!

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...t?usp=drivesdk

I'm including a few pictures here.
I havent quite finished mine yet due to getting busy with work and family, but I'm over halfway done and have streamlined the process to finish it up soon.

My halfway done rack (also being used as a temporary tub table)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f26a8d163e.jpg

View of the wheels/bottom
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ba5d47e7dc.jpg

2 shelves in place with backstops installed
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...427b9730ca.jpg

Current plan for the tub layout (my chosen tub fits 16oz crock, and 2 Large RBI hides perfectly unlike my experience with a sterilite 41qt)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...11643a7e75.jpg

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The one thing that I would do to improve this design is to add washers to increase surface area where the nuts are.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

The one thing that I would do to improve this design is to add washers to increase surface area where the nuts are.

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I considered it, but after putting together the first level, I couldn't think of why it would be much of an improvement. With 1 shelf on it, it easily supported me standing on it with no bowing or flexing in the shelves and no slipping on the posts.

I used the 1/2 drill bit for holes, so there is no gap for it to help cover on mine (anyone using the slightly larger bit will want to reconsider your idea for themselves, tho!)

I also was concerned that washers may make adjusting heights more difficult once assembled and trying to keep the price down a bit for myself.

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I've seen this design before and it does work very well. The last one I saw used wing nuts instead of regular nuts so adjusting the shelf heights was very easy - and it did have washers.

It's also an easy rack to dismantle, move, and reassemble if necessary which makes it ideal for the larger tubs. Otherwise those racks are pretty unwieldy.

Really nice, but another vote for the washers being beneficial. Trust me I was a journeymen mold maker for twenty years. Very nice thanks for sharing.

Very nice - As someone that enjoys figuring things out and building on my own I can appreciate what you've done. I use AP enclosures so all I needed was a rolling platform to stack them on but yours is great for tubs man.

(My build https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...246819-Finally!!!)

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Originally Posted by BR8080

Very nice - As someone that enjoys figuring things out and building on my own I can appreciate what you've done. I use AP enclosures so all I needed was a rolling platform to stack them on but yours is great for tubs man.

(My build https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...246819-Finally!!!)

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I love the look of yours! Not sure how I missed that thread before now. If I hadn't already set up my T8s with the stands I chose, I would seriously consider doing something similar to that.

I don't use tubs for everything, so here's an added shot of my T8s and their stands. Pardon the random clutter, I'm still sorting out the storage in that room.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a376e428f5.jpg

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I'm not sure why there's such a fascination with the use of washers. Melamine board isn't soft enough to justify using them, and doing so only creates more friction surfaces that may move. Plus it's just an extra step.

Regardless, this is a really nice design that gives a lot more room for changes than most of the stickies. :gj:

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Originally Posted by skydnay

I'm not sure why there's such a fascination with the use of washers. Melamine board isn't soft enough to justify using them, and doing so only creates more friction surfaces that may move. Plus it's just an extra step.

Regardless, this is a really nice design that gives a lot more room for changes than most of the stickies. :gj:

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Washers can help distribute the weight over a wider area and help prevent unnecessary wear between surfaces. It would also help eliminate fiction between the nut and the surface. There is reason they are used, and cost is literally less then a couple bucks, it’s sincere advice. It’s kinda the reason you come to a form (help, advice).

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Originally Posted by Sonny1318

Washers can help distribute the weight over a wider area and help prevent unnecessary wear between surfaces. It would also help eliminate fiction between the nut and the surface. There is reason they are used, and cost is literally less then a couple bucks, it’s sincere advice. It’s kinda the reason you come to a form (help, advice).

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If the nuts are on tight, then there's minimal friction in the first place. No need for washers, they're just an extra step here, and less than a couple bucks of extra money.

Sure, advice is fine, but OP already explained why they weren't used, so I don't see why two more posts about it is warranted. And this post is a guide, not a request for critique, so there's that. AND this forum is not strictly for advice and help. There are boards for that. It's also for discussion and just general chat in the appropriate areas. Not all posts are asking for help and not all need to be given advice.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sonny1318

Washers can help distribute the weight over a wider area and help prevent unnecessary wear between surfaces. It would also help eliminate fiction between the nut and the surface. There is reason they are used, and cost is literally less then a couple bucks, it’s sincere advice. It’s kinda the reason you come to a form (help, advice).

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Advice is fine, but until your post I haven't seen much explanation for why it would be beneficial.

Below here is my $0.02. I debated not responding at all to any comments about washers, but feel that continuing replies on the topic is detracting from the purpose of this post as an alternative rack design folks can customize for themselves. I hope that we can all agree to disagree on this point and of course the prior comments will remain as a suggestion to any future viewers for something they can do differently than I have done.

I hope I am not coming off as defensive or rude as that is not my intention at all.

I posted this for the purposes of someone looking for an alternative to the fixed frugal herpers rack in the sticky to be able to see another method they could implement. (which I found to be difficult to assemble with precision for small snakes with higher escape risks than a BP when you have minimal tools) And they can certainly modify it to have washers if they choose.

I did some research re: washers, but have come to the conclusion that it is not necessary for this application. If stationary nuts cause sufficient damage to the surface in under 20 years to even be noticeable when assembled, I would be shocked. And if there is non-visible scratching or whatever on 3/4" melamine, I can't believe that is sufficient to make it unusable or risky for the animals.

This rack is going to be moved at most feet at a time every few months perhaps for adjusting thermostat probes or maybe if required to mop/clean beneath it. Maybe a handful of instances through its lifetime where it will be rolled more than that due to moving houses or rooms in the house.

I found a relatively recent article with a video (geared somewhat to advertise a particular type of washer) that demonstrates the Junker test on a variety of washer types and displays the results.
Link here:
https://hackaday.com/2017/06/08/nuts...ping-it-tight/

This rack will not be subject to nearly this sort of motion and force, but is the most probable cause of slippage of the nuts as far as I am aware. However, for this application, the clamp load is not important. It is OK if the shelves aren't clamped so tightly in place. All that is needed is that the rack shelves not raise up or lower by much. Raising up would be an escape risk and gravity dictates this is not a concern. And if it lowers slightly that can be fixed easily with a wrench and would only make the tubs sit tighter.

Managed to lose part of my post when I fixed a typo. Re-summarizing the rest here:

The video clearly shows further rotation of the nut when a washer is in place even if it is maintaining a higher clamp load. Since we do not care about clamp load for this application and do care about the rotation, it would appear to be better to have no washer with regards to reducing the amount of turning done by the nut which would allow the shelf to lower.

Further, the tests are done against metal, with metal nuts, bolts, and washers. Melamine is more textured than metal and should allow for more friction than metal on metal as between nuts and washers. Which should reduce amount of turn for with or without washers.

If a nut/washer combo slipped between them, then the nut lowers and there is nothing stopping the washer from dropping (not attached to the threads) and the shelf following. Single point of failure with no washer and 2 points of failure with equitable chances of failing (nut to washer, washer&nut to shelf) if you assume friction is similar across the two types of materials. (Which I am assuming for discussion purposes since a quick Google search does not give a concrete coefficient of friction for melanine)

That becomes simple probability. If there is 2 places with a 0.1% chance each day of turning a 1/4 turn vs 1 place, then probability states the 2 places will fail twice as much. (This is generalized of course)


TL;DR - my research and education (engineering degree from a top US university with in depth calculus-based physics courses) leads me to the conclusion that there is negligible benefit and an argument may even be made that there is a detriment to including washers in this design when used as described in my prior post.

(Note - since I mention in my guide possibly using a larger drill bit to allow easier shelf assemble, those using that bit may want a washer to ensure the nut has good contact with the shelf. In my case, with the 1/2" bit, I have 0 gap around the rod and no need for washers for that purpose)

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by pretends2bnormal

Managed to lose part of my post when I fixed a typo. Re-summarizing the rest here:

The video clearly shows further rotation of the nut when a washer is in place even if it is maintaining a higher clamp load. Since we do not care about clamp load for this application and do care about the rotation, it would appear to be better to have no washer with regards to reducing the amount of turning done by the nut which would allow the shelf to lower.

Further, the tests are done against metal, with metal nuts, bolts, and washers. Melamine is more textured than metal and should allow for more friction than metal on metal as between nuts and washers. Which should reduce amount of turn for with or without washers.

If a nut/washer combo slipped between them, then the nut lowers and there is nothing stopping the washer from dropping (not attached to the threads) and the shelf following. Single point of failure with no washer and 2 points of failure with equitable chances of failing (nut to washer, washer&nut to shelf) if you assume friction is similar across the two types of materials. (Which I am assuming for discussion purposes since a quick Google search does not give a concrete coefficient of friction for melanine)

That becomes simple probability. If there is 2 places with a 0.1% chance each day of turning a 1/4 turn vs 1 place, then probability states the 2 places will fail twice as much. (This is generalized of course)


TL;DR - my research and education (engineering degree from a top US university with in depth calculus-based physics courses) leads me to the conclusion that there is negligible benefit and an argument may even be made that there is a detriment to including washers in this design when used as described in my prior post.

(Note - since I mention in my guide possibly using a larger drill bit to allow easier shelf assemble, those using that bit may want a washer to ensure the nut has good contact with the shelf. In my case, with the 1/2" bit, I have 0 gap around the rod and no need for washers for that purpose)

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Great