Feeding f/t?

My baby ball python's food shipped today (frozen hoppers) and should be arriving the day before his feeding day (Friday). I ordered my him from xyz reptiles and they previously had him on live food, and Friday will be the first time I'm feeding him since he didn't eat last Friday. Any suggestions on how to properly feed him and switch him to f/t?
Also, I have a separate feeding tub for him so he doesn't accidentally eat his substrate by accident. So how should I quickly transport him into the tub? How do I lift him without stressing him out?
I have not handled him since he's been in his terrarium, so any advice would be great

Thank you!:)

A few things:

First, don't use a seperate feeding tub. That method is old school and proven counter productive over time.

Using a seperate feeding tub will:
A) Increase the chance of the snake refusing it's meal due to the stress of being moved
B) Increase the chance of the snake regurgitating it's meal due to being moved after eating
C) Increase your chances of being bitten moving a snake in feed mode.

Nobody puts them in a clean feeding tub in the wild, and they've survived thousands of years. If you're really worried about substrate you can lay a piece of cardboard or paper plate down (not paper towel or fabric) but your snake will probably drag the prey where it wants to eat anyway.

I've fed all my snakes in their enclosures and have never had an impaction and have never been bitten or even struck at within the enclosure.

There is literally zero benefit to moving to a feeding tub.



Also, unfortunately, I hope you didn't order many hoppers, they're too small to your BP. BPs eat hoppers for the first few meals only, typically 3-5 meals them move on to small adult mice.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by craigafrechette

A few things:

First, don't use a seperate feeding tub. That method is old school and proven counter productive over time.

Using a seperate feeding tub will:
A) Increase the chance of the snake refusing it's meal due to the stress of being moved
B) Increase the chance of the snake regurgitating it's meal due to being moved after eating
C) Increase your chances of being bitten moving a snake in feed mode.

Nobody puts them in a clean feeding tub in the wild, and they've survived thousands of years. If you're really worried about substrate you can lay a piece of cardboard or paper plate down (not paper towel or fabric) but your snake will probably drag the prey where it wants to eat anyway.

I've fed all my snakes in their enclosures and have never had an impaction and have never been bitten or even struck at within the enclosure.

There is literally zero benefit to moving to a feeding tub.



Also, unfortunately, I hope you didn't order many hoppers, they're too small to your BP. BPs eat hoppers for the first few meals only, typically 3-5 meals them move on to small adult mice.

---

I actually did order a lot. Of course.
That is something I tried looking into. Wasn't sure how people even determined when switching to larger mice, people seemed mixed up in past threads I've read. I honestly just assumed they ate the same size for a certain amount of time and then slowly progressed into larger food. But people have fed their snakes two smaller mice to help regulate their meals, but would you recommend that?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by craigafrechette

A few things:

First, don't use a seperate feeding tub. That method is old school and proven counter productive over time.

Using a seperate feeding tub will:
A) Increase the chance of the snake refusing it's meal due to the stress of being moved
B) Increase the chance of the snake regurgitating it's meal due to being moved after eating
C) Increase your chances of being bitten moving a snake in feed mode.

Nobody puts them in a clean feeding tub in the wild, and they've survived thousands of years. If you're really worried about substrate you can lay a piece of cardboard or paper plate down (not paper towel or fabric) but your snake will probably drag the prey where it wants to eat anyway.

I've fed all my snakes in their enclosures and have never had an impaction and have never been bitten or even struck at within the enclosure.

There is literally zero benefit to moving to a feeding tub.



Also, unfortunately, I hope you didn't order many hoppers, they're too small to your BP. BPs eat hoppers for the first few meals only, typically 3-5 meals them move on to small adult mice.

---

Yes^^^^^^^^^^^^What Craig said.

DO NOT USE A FEEDING TUB! BP's are easily stressed as is. Do not add stress and increase the likelihood of refusal by using a feeding tub. For what it's worth, many snakes, who eat anything, anytime (many colubrids such as corns and boids like Boas) will eat in a feeding tub, but have fun getting a 7FT 20 pound female Boa out of one after eating! They stay in feed mode for 1-2 days! There many reasons why feeding tubs should not be used, and it varies by species. Most species it is for their benefit, but with some, it's for the keepers safety.

Here is the BP feeding chart. I recommend using it for size and days in between feedings for young BP's. Adults tend to tell you how often they want to be fed by refusing meals they don't want and often fasting in the winter. My BP, Shayna, once and adult, refused 2/3-4 meals when fed weekly. I moved to every two weeks and she eats 4/5 meals now on average. She still fasts for 5 months every winter, but since she pounds medium rats all summer, it's no worry at all.

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...ding_chart.jpg

Secondly, when offering F/T to a BP, especially one that isn't used to eating F/T, you want to mimic a life prey item as much as possible. Move it around on the tongs a little, not drastic movements. Do not scare the snake. DO NOT bump the snake with the prey item, rather, let them come to it, or bring it closer, but not too close.

DO NOT remove the snake from a hide. If it's in a hide, dangle the prey item in front and the let snake come grab it. If it doesn't eat within a couple minutes of offering, you can leave in the tank up to overnight. However, you must remove within 12 hours or else you get a rotting rodent and that's not good for anyone.

In case it was not clear, USE TONGS! You will probably want them now, but will definitely need them when he's bigger.

Also, and very important. BP's hunt at night. Offer at night, with tank lights off, and minimal room light. Just enough so you can see what you are doing. Much higher likelihood of success.

Equally important, if he refuses, wait a week to offer again. Do not over offer, that will just scare/bother him and put him off F/T.

Finally, here's a step by step instruction I wrote about defrosting F/T prey. With prey that small, it will probably defrost in warmish/room temp water within an hour, but as the instructions say, check and make sure.




This is my step by step list on defrosting F/T rodents.

Others may do it differently and that's fine. This how I do it and it works for me.


STEPS FOR DEFROSTING F/T RODENTS/PREY

1. Put prey item(s) into appropriate size plastic bag (1 for each). I use Quart size ziplock bags up to a medium rat. NOTE: Bags are optional. Some people just throw the prey in the water. I like the bags, but you have to squeeze the air out of them.

2. Fill the container/storage box 3/4 of the way with room temp to slightly warm water. If you have a temp gun (which you should, so if you don't, get one), make sure the water is not hotter than 85-90F, or there about.

3. Put F/T prey item(s) in water. Cover (optional) and leave for an hour +/-.

4. After an hour, rotate/flip prey. If in plastic bags, they often will stay on whatever side you put them in on. So if mouse is on left side, turn to right side, etc.

5. Leave for another hour +/- for a TOTAL of about 2 hours (up to medium sized rat - longer if bigger prey for when ROE is bigger and eating Large rats, for example).

6. Check that prey is defrosted totally through. Squeeze at different sections of the preys body. Should be cool/room temp to touch, but be soft with no cold spots. If hard (except for bone), in abdomen, for example, or cold, put back in water until room temp and soft.

7. Take prey out of the container/storage box and put aside. THEN FOLLOW STEPS 8-11 OR STEP 12

8. Fill container with hot water from tap. If using temp gun, water temp should be 110-130F, not more.

9. Drop prey item into water for 30 seconds +/-. If multiple prey items, do one at a time. You want each item hot when you offer.

10. Remove (if hot water, with tongs).

11. Dry as best as you can, and is quickly as you can, with paper towels. I dry with paper towels while I am walking from the bathroom where I defrost to the snake tanks. I kind of wrap the prey item up in them. It's ten feet, so by the time I get to the tanks, the prey is drier, but still warm.

12. If not using hot water, use a hairdryer to heat rat so it entices snake

13. Open tank and offer ASAP.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Traceur

I actually did order a lot. Of course.
That is something I tried looking into. Wasn't sure how people even determined when switching to larger mice, people seemed mixed up in past threads I've read. I honestly just assumed they ate the same size for a certain amount of time and then slowly progressed into larger food. But people have fed their snakes two smaller mice to help regulate their meals, but would you recommend that?

---

Some snakes will take multiple prey items in one meal. BP's, not so much.

See the chart I put in my previous post.

One appropriate sized rodent per meal is best.

Also, since you are new to this. Once he's on small mice or adult mice, be thinking hard about switching him to rats.

BP's tend to imprint on one food item and not eat anything else. Get him off mice once you have him on F/T for a little while and he has some size to him.

Additionally, yes, read other posts and learn what you can. However, do not be shy about asking questions. We are here to help.

If unsure, just ask. No stupid questions. It makes it easier for frequent contributors if you read up first and or search for a specific topic and read that and then ask for clarification. Open ended questions can be more difficult to answer. The more you know, the easier it is to ask as well.

Good luck and keep us in the loop. Again, ask when in doubt.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dakski

Yes^^^^^^^^^^^^What Craig said.

DO NOT USE A FEEDING TUB! BP's are easily stressed as is. Do not add stress and increase the likelihood of refusal by using a feeding tub. For what it's worth, many snakes, who eat anything, anytime (many colubrids such as corns and boids like Boas) will eat in a feeding tub, but have fun getting a 7FT 20 pound female Boa out of one after eating! They stay in feed mode for 1-2 days! There many reasons why feeding tubs should not be used, and it varies by species. Most species it is for their benefit, but with some, it's for the keepers safety.

Here is the BP feeding chart. I recommend using it for size and days in between feedings for young BP's. Adults tend to tell you how often they want to be fed by refusing meals they don't want and often fasting in the winter. My BP, Shayna, once and adult, refused 2/3-4 meals when fed weekly. I moved to every two weeks and she eats 4/5 meals now on average. She still fasts for 5 months every winter, but since she pounds medium rats all summer, it's no worry at all.

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...ding_chart.jpg

Secondly, when offering F/T to a BP, especially one that isn't used to eating F/T, you want to mimic a life prey item as much as possible. Move it around on the tongs a little, not drastic movements. Do not scare the snake. DO NOT bump the snake with the prey item, rather, let them come to it, or bring it closer, but not too close.

DO NOT remove the snake from a hide. If it's in a hide, dangle the prey item in front and the let snake come grab it. If it doesn't eat within a couple minutes of offering, you can leave in the tank up to overnight. However, you must remove within 12 hours or else you get a rotting rodent and that's not good for anyone.

In case it was not clear, USE TONGS! You will probably want them now, but will definitely need them when he's bigger.

Also, and very important. BP's hunt at night. Offer at night, with tank lights off, and minimal room light. Just enough so you can see what you are doing. Much higher likelihood of success.

Equally important, if he refuses, wait a week to offer again. Do not over offer, that will just scare/bother him and put him off F/T.

Finally, here's a step by step instruction I wrote about defrosting F/T prey. With prey that small, it will probably defrost in warmish/room temp water within an hour, but as the instructions say, check and make sure.




This is my step by step list on defrosting F/T rodents.

Others may do it differently and that's fine. This how I do it and it works for me.


STEPS FOR DEFROSTING F/T RODENTS/PREY

1. Put prey item(s) into appropriate size plastic bag (1 for each). I use Quart size ziplock bags up to a medium rat. NOTE: Bags are optional. Some people just throw the prey in the water. I like the bags, but you have to squeeze the air out of them.

2. Fill the container/storage box 3/4 of the way with room temp to slightly warm water. If you have a temp gun (which you should, so if you don't, get one), make sure the water is not hotter than 85-90F, or there about.

3. Put F/T prey item(s) in water. Cover (optional) and leave for an hour +/-.

4. After an hour, rotate/flip prey. If in plastic bags, they often will stay on whatever side you put them in on. So if mouse is on left side, turn to right side, etc.

5. Leave for another hour +/- for a TOTAL of about 2 hours (up to medium sized rat - longer if bigger prey for when ROE is bigger and eating Large rats, for example).

6. Check that prey is defrosted totally through. Squeeze at different sections of the preys body. Should be cool/room temp to touch, but be soft with no cold spots. If hard (except for bone), in abdomen, for example, or cold, put back in water until room temp and soft.

7. Take prey out of the container/storage box and put aside. THEN FOLLOW STEPS 8-11 OR STEP 12

8. Fill container with hot water from tap. If using temp gun, water temp should be 110-130F, not more.

9. Drop prey item into water for 30 seconds +/-. If multiple prey items, do one at a time. You want each item hot when you offer.

10. Remove (if hot water, with tongs).

11. Dry as best as you can, and is quickly as you can, with paper towels. I dry with paper towels while I am walking from the bathroom where I defrost to the snake tanks. I kind of wrap the prey item up in them. It's ten feet, so by the time I get to the tanks, the prey is drier, but still warm.

12. If not using hot water, use a hairdryer to heat rat so it entices snake

13. Open tank and offer ASAP.

---

Good golly, thank you! That really helps!:D
When should I start weighing him? I read that it's important to weigh your snakes to make sure they are at the correct weight. I've heard people say to weigh them before feedings. So when would be the best time to do that?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Traceur

I actually did order a lot. Of course.
That is something I tried looking into. Wasn't sure how people even determined when switching to larger mice, people seemed mixed up in past threads I've read. I honestly just assumed they ate the same size for a certain amount of time and then slowly progressed into larger food. But people have fed their snakes two smaller mice to help regulate their meals, but would you recommend that?

---

I have a couple of my snakes that have refused larger prey than adult mice, but will readily chow down on 2-3 mice per feeding (my 3 yr old albino ball in particular). You could start with one prey item for the first few feedings, then try offering 2 for a few feedings, then up to 3 if they will take it. I prefer a larger prey item per animal, as I feel the larger more developed bone and muscle structure is beneficial and more filling (my opinion only), but I will cater to a preference if the snakes refuses too many meals in a row. That said, I’ve only rarely had babies that wouldn’t switch to larger prey as they got older.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dakski

Some snakes will take multiple prey items in one meal. BP's, not so much.

See the chart I put in my previous post.

One appropriate sized rodent per meal is best.

Also, since you are new to this. Once he's on small mice or adult mice, be thinking hard about switching him to rats.

BP's tend to imprint on one food item and not eat anything else. Get him off mice once you have him on F/T for a little while and he has some size to him.

Additionally, yes, read other posts and learn what you can. However, do not be shy about asking questions. We are here to help.

If unsure, just ask. No stupid questions. It makes it easier for frequent contributors if you read up first and or search for a specific topic and read that and then ask for clarification. Open ended questions can be more difficult to answer. The more you know, the easier it is to ask as well.

Good luck and keep us in the loop. Again, ask when in doubt.

---

Thanks for the advice, that really helps me understand this whole thing better with food. But what Craig said, what should I do about the extra hoppers? He probably has 3 meals left before he's ready to switch on to larger mice, so what should I do then?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dianne

I have a couple of my snakes that have refused larger prey than adult mice, but will readily chow down on 2-3 mice per feeding (my 3 yr old albino ball in particular). You could start with one prey item for the first few feedings, then try offering 2 for a few feedings, then up to 3 if they will take it. I prefer a larger prey item per animal, as I feel the larger more developed bone and muscle structure is beneficial and more filling (my opinion only), but I will cater to a preference if the snakes refuses too many meals in a row. That said, I’ve only rarely had babies that wouldn’t switch to larger prey as they got older.

---

Amazing! I'll try possible testing that out then when he comes closer to eating larger prey:) What should I do if he should be eating 2, but ends up only eating 1?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Traceur

Amazing! I'll try possible testing that out then when he comes closer to eating larger prey:) What should I do if he should be eating 2, but ends up only eating 1?

---

My albino still does that from time to time. I leave it in the cage overnight as he has changed his mind and eaten it later. In those cases, I always thoroughly check the cage the next morning if I don’t see the mouse where I left it. One time he only moved the mouse, under the rhp...heated dead mouse after a 12 hour shift at work was NOT pleasant.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Traceur

Good golly, thank you! That really helps!:D
When should I start weighing him? I read that it's important to weigh your snakes to make sure they are at the correct weight. I've heard people say to weigh them before feedings. So when would be the best time to do that?

---

Weigh snakes "dry," after they leave waste, preferably with poop and not just urine and urate. That will give you the most accurate weight. Snakes eat big meals and can take big poops. It can throw their weight off noticeably.

It's important for two reasons.

1. Appropriate sized prey (although you can use the sight method as well - with a BP, you don't want any prey item that leaves a noticeable lump. They are heavy built snakes, but not super stretchy.)

2. Are the sick?

Many BP's fast for periods of the year, usually winter. My BP Shayna fasts every winter for about 5 months and loses about 6-9% of her body weight. I do not worry unless she loses more than 10-15% and she always starts eating after about a 8-9% loss. It helps to keep track of weight loss during this period.

Additionally, if snakes are not gaining weight consistently when growing, that can point to health issues, such as internal parasites, etc.

As a side note, I’m going to try my albino on small rats again next feeding...still hoping to switch him over.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dianne

My albino still does that from time to time. I leave it in the cage overnight as he has changed his mind and eaten it later. In those cases, I always thoroughly check the cage the next morning if I don’t see the mouse where I left it. One time he only moved the mouse, under the rhp...heated dead mouse after a 12 hour shift at work was NOT pleasant.

---

Dianne,

Good to know BP's will often take several or more smaller prey items. My corns will do that happily, and I am sure my Boa would too. However, my BP is a shy eater, and usually goes and curls up after a meal. She's not exactly looking for more. However, she's always eaten appropriate sized prey for her and switched to rats super easy. So, I haven't had to test the theory. I appreciate the insight.

Secondly, you got off light!

Shayna (my BP), will, every once in a while, pull the rat into her hide, where she likes to eat, and then leave it there. The first time she did that, I didn't find it for two days! It was horrible! I give her two days to digest and leave her alone completely. Well, I used to. Now I check the next morning under all her hides to make sure it's in her belly!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dianne

My albino still does that from time to time. I leave it in the cage overnight as he has changed his mind and eaten it later. In those cases, I always thoroughly check the cage the next morning if I don’t see the mouse where I left it. One time he only moved the mouse, under the rhp...heated dead mouse after a 12 hour shift at work was NOT pleasant.

---

Sounds like that was fun XD The only thing I worry about is him accidentally eating some of his substrate. I've heard of this happening, while I have you lovely folks telling me it's completely safe and better for the snake. How likely is it for him to eat a piece of his cypress mulch?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dakski

Weigh snakes "dry," after they leave waste, preferably with poop and not just urine and urate. That will give you the most accurate weight. Snakes eat big meals and can take big poops. It can throw their weight off noticeably.

It's important for two reasons.

1. Appropriate sized prey (although you can use the sight method as well - with a BP, you don't want any prey item that leaves a noticeable lump. They are heavy built snakes, but not super stretchy.)

2. Are the sick?

Many BP's fast for periods of the year, usually winter. My BP Shayna fasts every winter for about 5 months and loses about 6-9% of her body weight. I do not worry unless she loses more than 10-15% and she always starts eating after about a 8-9% loss. It helps to keep track of weight loss during this period.

Additionally, if snakes are not gaining weight consistently when growing, that can point to health issues, such as internal parasites, etc.

---

Sweet, I'll be sure to do that then! Should I weigh him after his first feeding when he dries? He's still pretty new, and I know you have to give them time till you could handle him. But would that be okay?

Also, what does snake poop and pee even look like? Will it be pretty noticeable?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dakski

Dianne,

Good to know BP's will often take several or more smaller prey items. My corns will do that happily, and I am sure my Boa would too. However, my BP is a shy eater, and usually goes and curls up after a meal. She's not exactly looking for more. However, she's always eaten appropriate sized prey for her and switched to rats super easy. So, I haven't had to test the theory. I appreciate the insight.

Secondly, you got off light!

Shayna (my BP), will, every once in a while, pull the rat into her hide, where she likes to eat, and then leave it there. The first time she did that, I didn't find it for two days! It was horrible! I give her two days to digest and leave her alone completely. Well, I used to. Now I check the next morning under all her hides to make sure it's in her belly!

---

Your stories have me worry about what it'll be like if I'm able to get him to eat 2 hoppers when he reaches that point XD I still haven't figured out his personality. And if I'm being honest, I don't even have a name for him yet

RE: too much food:

There's a couple things you can do in that case.

If there's a reptile specialty shop nearby, sometimes you get lucky and they will trade feeders. Just may need to pay a difference in cost.

The easier option is after a couple of meals you can offer 2 hoppers for a meal. Younger Bps tend to do better with this option than the older ones. I would also consider feeding every 7-10 days for the first few meals to account for the larger meal and proper digestion. If the baby handles that well then you can go back to trying 5-7 days between meals.
And then prepare to stick to the larger and single prey after this run of hoppers is through.


Healthy poop:
Will be a nice light to dark brown 'turds' with a chunk of white chalky looking pee (reptiles pass semisolid urates) and a bit of actual liquid.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Traceur

Sweet, I'll be sure to do that then! Should I weigh him after his first feeding when he dries? He's still pretty new, and I know you have to give them time till you could handle him. But would that be okay?

Also, what does snake poop and pee even look like? Will it be pretty noticeable?

---

I would avoid handling unless you need to quickly remove him and put him another container while you clean his tank.

Wait until he has three meals on consecutive tries in him before you can start gentle handling sessions.

Yeah, you won't miss the poop, but with Cypress Mulch, might miss the pee. However, pee generally comes with white chalky poop like stuff called Urates. The poop smells pretty bad, especially while they are eating mice. It's actually less unpleasant on rats.

If you are worried about him digesting cypress mulch, either use a different substrate, or offer the food over a paper plate. I am not an expert on cypress mulch, but snakes have a pretty strong digestive tract. I'll let someone else chime in on that, but I wouldn't worry too much.

For cleanliness, ease of care, and to avoid issues like digesting substrate, I use printless newspaper. I have enclosed PVC tanks so humidity stays perfect even with the paper substrate.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dakski

Dianne,

Good to know BP's will often take several or more smaller prey items. My corns will do that happily, and I am sure my Boa would too. However, my BP is a shy eater, and usually goes and curls up after a meal. She's not exactly looking for more. However, she's always eaten appropriate sized prey for her and switched to rats super easy. So, I haven't had to test the theory. I appreciate the insight.

Secondly, you got off light!

Shayna (my BP), will, every once in a while, pull the rat into her hide, where she likes to eat, and then leave it there. The first time she did that, I didn't find it for two days! It was horrible! I give her two days to digest and leave her alone completely. Well, I used to. Now I check the next morning under all her hides to make sure it's in her belly!

---

Luckily for me, it was only about 24 hours from when I introduced the prey to finding it the next evening. I’ve also experienced the regurged rodent in a hidden spot after a couple of days. Ick.

My normal male will pretty often take seconds and thirds, especially if he’s coming off a fast. If one of my others refuse their mouse or rat, I’ll offer it to him and he takes it most of the time. My new pied ate 2 live pinkies last week (all I could get at the time), but took a chunky f/t fuzzy yesterday. My hoppers just came in, so those are the plan for next week. My lemonblast is still refusing to eat anything, got her 7/21 (same day as the pied), but I’ve ordered live fuzzies for her tomorrow. I’m really doubting she ate one meal like the seller stated. I knew she was a brand new hatchling going in, so I knew there was a risk of having a problem getting her started. Patience is key in this case.

The corns and redtail will eat as much as I feed them. lol. The only boa I’ve ever had that wasn’t a chow hound is my Solomon Island ground boa. He usually eats one mouse every two weeks, but every once in a while he’ll take two. They’re very small snakes though, so that isn’t a problem. Overfeeding them can really be a health risk, so he dictates what he wants.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dakski

I would avoid handling unless you need to quickly remove him and put him another container while you clean his tank.

Wait until he has three meals on consecutive tries in him before you can start gentle handling sessions.

Yeah, you won't miss the poop, but with Cypress Mulch, might miss the pee. However, pee generally comes with white chalky poop like stuff called Urates. The poop smells pretty bad, especially while they are eating mice. It's actually less unpleasant on rats.

If you are worried about him digesting cypress mulch, either use a different substrate, or offer the food over a paper plate. I am not an expert on cypress mulch, but snakes have a pretty strong digestive tract. I'll let someone else chime in on that, but I wouldn't worry too much.

For cleanliness, ease of care, and to avoid issues like digesting substrate, I use printless newspaper. I have enclosed PVC tanks so humidity stays perfect even with the paper substrate.

---

Sounds great! If I use a paper plate or printer less paper, how do I get him on there without stressing him out? He's always hanging around in his hides, so he's still a bit of a shy guy at the moment

Also, I've heard of ball pythons fasting. One of you mentioned it. When and why do they do that? How long does it usually last?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Traceur

Your stories have me worry about what it'll be like if I'm able to get him to eat 2 hoppers when he reaches that point XD I still haven't figured out his personality. And if I'm being honest, I don't even have a name for him yet

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If it is any consolation, I’ve been keeping snakes (boas and pythons mostly) since 1991. In that time, I’ve only had a few picky feeders. My albino ball has always been a good eater and moved steadily up in prey size until I tried rats. I don’t know if the size intimidated him...bit of a jump from the large mice to small rats...or if the scent put him off. That said, he’s the only snake I’ve had that wouldn’t switch to rats...and I’m not giving up yet! :D

As for names, sometimes it takes a bit to find a “fit”. I’ve bought 4 balls in the last month, a newly hatched pied and lemonblast on 7/21 (both July hatchlings), a 2-3 month old blue-eyed leucistic on 8/25, and a 3 year old dragonfly on 9/2. The pied almost immediately became Piper (hokey, but I like it). The lemonblast took a few weeks before I chose Belle (Beauty & the Beast, because of the yellow dress = yellow snake who’s just a pretty girl). The blue-eyed lucy is Button - for now at least, because I kept saying he was cute as a button. I can’t figure out a name for the dragonfly yet. Once I can start handling her and get a feel for her personality, I’ll hopefully figure it out. I’ve pulled names for my other snakes from books, movies, cartoon characters, you name it. You’ll figure it out when you’re ready and you know your little one better. ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Traceur

Also, I've heard of ball pythons fasting. One of you mentioned it. When and why do they do that? How long does it usually last?

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Some balls will fast once they are breeding age, usually seasonally. My normal male was most likely a wild caught import. I bought him from his original owner when he was about 2 years old in 1992. He was more rescue than purchase (covered in another post), but he has gone off feed for up to 6 months at a stretch. It isn’t every year, and as long as he didn’t drop body mass I wasn’t overly concerned. In the last few years, he hasn’t gone off feed for those long stretches, and I always offer anyway.

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Originally Posted by Dianne

If it is any consolation, I’ve been keeping snakes (boas and pythons mostly) since 1991. In that time, I’ve only had a few picky feeders. My albino ball has always been a good eater and moved steadily up in prey size until I tried rats. I don’t know if the size intimidated him...bit of a jump from the large mice to small rats...or if the scent put him off. That said, he’s the only snake I’ve had that wouldn’t switch to rats...and I’m not giving up yet! :D

As for names, sometimes it takes a bit to find a “fit”. I’ve bought 4 balls in the last month, a newly hatched pied and lemonblast on 7/21 (both July hatchlings), a 2-3 month old blue-eyed leucistic on 8/25, and a 3 year old dragonfly on 9/2. The pied almost immediately became Piper (hokey, but I like it). The lemonblast took a few weeks before I chose Belle (Beauty & the Beast, because of the yellow dress = yellow snake who’s just a pretty girl). The blue-eyed lucy is Button - for now at least, because I kept saying he was cute as a button. I can’t figure out a name for the dragonfly yet. Once I can start handling her and get a feel for her personality, I’ll hopefully figure it out. I’ve pulled names for my other snakes from books, movies, cartoon characters, you name it. You’ll figure it out when you’re ready and you know your little one better. ;)

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That helps honestly, now I don't feel as bad XD I'm either deciding between Coffee Roll (my favorite "donut" from my favorite coffee place, plus he has some white at the very tip of his tail they could be the frosting) or Smokey (something cool). But I still have tons of names to still pick some. But like you said, I'll figure it out when I'm ready:D He's a Russo ball python

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Originally Posted by Dianne

Some balls will fast once they are breeding age, usually seasonally. My normal male was most likely a wild caught import. I bought him from his original owner when he was about 2 years old in 1992. He was more rescue than purchase (covered in another post), but he has gone off feed for up to 6 months at a stretch. It isn’t every year, and as long as he didn’t drop body mass I wasn’t overly concerned. In the last few years, he hasn’t gone off feed for those long stretches, and I always offer anyway.

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That's interesting to know. Is it possible to neuter him, in that case?
Im assuming they are like most animals, well, more like cats and dogs. When we neuter or spay them, they lose that urge and pack on some weight from the reduced metabolism. I was debating on neutering him too (all my pets are fixed). But I didn't think it'd be a big deal since I won't ever breed him (I'm highly against breeding). But it won't affect him much, will it?

No, snakes can not be neutered.

It is common, especially for males, to go on food strikes once they have reached breeding maturity. It commonly happens during their natural breeding season. It is often suggested that male BPs can hit a "1,000 wall" as well. My male BP went from late March to early June without eating this year. He was a bit under 800 grams at the time so it was his first year at breeding maturity. He's now hovering around 1,000 grams and eating well every 10 days or so.

Unfortunately, it's one part of keeping BPs that would be listed in the "CON" column of a PROS & CONS list of keeping BPs as pets.

As long as the snake isn't losing much weight its not a problem. Tyson, for example was 798 grams when he started his fast and 710 when he broke his fast. Part of that weight being a poop that was responsible for a decent percentage of that weight loss. So I wasn't worried about it thing, it's just what BPs do

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Originally Posted by craigafrechette

No, snakes can not be neutered.

It is common, especially for males, to go on food strikes once they have reached breeding maturity. It commonly happens during their natural breeding season. It is often suggested that male BPs can hit a "1,000 wall" as well. My male BP went from late March to early June without eating this year. He was a bit under 800 grams at the time so it was his first year at breeding maturity. He's now hovering around 1,000 grams and eating well every 10 days or so.

Unfortunately, it's one part of keeping BPs that would be listed in the "CON" column of a PROS & CONS list of keeping BPs as pets.

As long as the snake isn't losing much weight its not a problem. Tyson, for example was 798 grams when he started his fast and 710 when he broke his fast. Part of that weight being a poop that was responsible for a decent percentage of that weight loss. So I wasn't worried about it thing, it's just what BPs do

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When do they reach breeding maturity and when is their natural breeding season? Is this something that happens during their entire life?