Taming an Aggressive BP? (TL;DR)

I used to handle my ball python (female, about two and a half years old) all the time but I started having less and less time for her. I tried not to handle her much as she starved herself for a few months and I didn't want to stress her out more. She bit me for the first time a few weeks ago and has been very aggressive ever since. She used to sit idly whenever I opened her terrarium, but now, she comes out of her hide and slithers upwards looking for a mouse. I have to use the lid of the terrarium to keep her on the opposite side of the tank while I change the water just to keep her from biting me. I'm at a loss for what to do as this is my first snake and I'm not sure how to reverse this aggressive behavior without being bitten repeatedly or stressing her out excessively.

*Note: She used to be very good-tempered, always calm, curious, and comfortable with handling. That seemed to change after I stopped handling her as frequently, I relocated her to a different terrarium, and she began eating again after having starved herself.

What can I do to make her again be familiar with me and not attack me or try to eat my hand every time I open up her tank?

TL;DR: My previously very calm snake has now become very aggressive and tries to bite me whenever I reach into her terrarium; how can I reverse this behavior?

Have you tried hook training? It's important to do it from hatchling stage but it might work now.

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A photo and weight+length details might help: sometimes snakes that are "aggressive" are hungry! And sometimes with good reason!

What are you feeding her? if she's being under-fed unintentionally, that could cause this behavior. If she's eating prey of the proper size and frequency,
something else might be going on. Snakes digest faster when they are kept warmer...what are the cage temps? They also digest very fast if they are
"sharing" their food with internal parasites....have you taken a food sample to the vet to check for intestinal worms?

Snakes may also be "cranky" if they are in pain or other discomfort, or if other things in their environment are causing stress (kids? other pets? vibrations from
loud music or new roof being installed, for examples) Many snakes are called "aggressive" when in reality, they are "defensive"- anyone teasing her, scaring her?

New cages are stressful (scary) to snakes also...they feel threatened by changes & need patience. But she mostly sounds hungry to me.

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

A photo and weight+length details might help: sometimes snakes that are "aggressive" are hungry! And sometimes with good reason!

What are you feeding her? if she's being under-fed unintentionally, that could cause this behavior. If she's eating prey of the proper size and frequency,
something else might be going on. Snakes digest faster when they are kept warmer...what are the cage temps? They also digest very fast if they are
"sharing" their food with internal parasites....have you taken a food sample to the vet to check for intestinal worms?

Snakes may also be "cranky" if they are in pain or other discomfort, or if other things in their environment are causing stress (kids? other pets? vibrations from
loud music or new roof being installed, for examples) Many snakes are called "aggressive" when in reality, they are "defensive"- anyone teasing her, scaring her?

New cages are stressful (scary) to snakes also...they feel threatened by changes & need patience. But she mostly sounds hungry to me.

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I haven't weighed or measured her in a while. Her last shed was about 4 feet long, but I know that skins are usually longer than the actual snake itself. I feed her live adult mice. I haven't upgraded to anything bigger because I know live rats can be dangerous, but she refuses to eat frozen-thawed now (she used to eat it, though).
Her tank is kept around 80 degrees. And no, I haven't taken any samples to a vet.
Nobody ever interacts with her or her living space but me. Our dog isn't even allowed in the same room as her. The room has a wall made mostly of windows, so I suppose she could probably hear whenever something loud is going on outside, but we live in a very quiet area.
Thank you for your reply and suggestions. It's highly appreciated.

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Originally Posted by Valyrian

Have you tried hook training? It's important to do it from hatchling stage but it might work now.

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I haven't tried hook training. A couple of friends have suggested it to me as well as using thick gloves that could protect me from a bite. I'm seriously considering getting a hook or finding something hook-like that wouldn't hurt her but could hold her weight.
Thank you for suggesting it.

OK, I've known ppl before that fed only live rodents and could NOT handle their snakes either. I'd STILL advise having her stool sample checked for worms,
but I think you have to realize that she is now accustomed to doing battle with live rodents and the response you see is how she protects herself from injury.

Trust me when I say that if you want a pet snake to be relaxed and tame to handle, feeding live is just a bad idea, apart from all the risks...your snake has now
learned to stay in defense mode...it's nothing personal. If you persevere, you MIGHT be able to calm her down with "hook training" or other similar methods
that accomplish the same thing: letting her know for sure when food is coming and when she is safe. The best thing though is to do the "work" involved and
switch her to dead prey, either f/t or fresh-killed (f/k), because sooner or later, you'll be paying vet bills for her rodent-caused injuries, along with wishing you
had a real pet you could hold.

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Originally Posted by BonnieBallPython

I haven't tried hook training. A couple of friends have suggested it to me as well as using thick gloves that could protect me from a bite. I'm seriously considering getting a hook or finding something hook-like that wouldn't hurt her but could hold her weight.
Thank you for suggesting it.

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Hook training is NOT about "holding her weight"...you aren't picking the snake up with the hook, but using it (or any similar blunt stick or tongs*) to touch and signal
the snake that it's time to be handled, and NOT incoming food. (Most) Snakes don't use vision very well to identify things: they use their sense of smell AND
their good sense of touch, to recognize friend & foe.

*You can also use a spray bottle of water to change a snake's thinking (about biting whatever's heading their way) and some ppl even hold up a roll of paper
towels...or, a piece of cloth (clothing you've worn especially) on the end of a stick to show your scent to the snake is a good way too. Basically you have to
"speak snake" a little more clearly...sound & vision don't work for them. Touch & scent is what you need to use.

Have you ever noticed how much our dogs observe us and know what we're going to do, before we THINK we've given them any cues? They know we're going
to leave for work, or to go to the store, or maybe walk them, or take a trip, because they have little else going on other than paying attention to all our moves.

Snakes are sorta like that too: only they aren't distracted by sounds (voices etc.) or much by vision; their instincts direct them to lay in wait for prey, so the moment
you approach & open their cage, they snap to attention ready for battle with incoming rodents. They cannot identify YOU by sight, and you are too far away for
scent (at least the way you've been approaching)...since they are thinking of nothing but "here comes dinner" they easily assume that you're "it" when you approach.
Don't take it personal...it's only an honest mistake on your snake's part...and because she is now conditioned to expect live prey that she MUST subdue quickly.
They use vision but it's only about "motion" (prey???), not a means of identifying. To survive, a snake usually must "bite first & ask questions later". ;)

Another thought: when you train a dog, or a human, "sporadic reinforcement" (not getting the treat EVERY time) actually makes the subject work harder for it.
I can't say for sure whether the same is true for snakes but judging from yours...sometimes it's a mouse, sometimes it's you, but each time she's trying harder, yes?

Anyway...communicate what's coming her way with scent and touch, & if you need help switching her from live (it takes patience but there's tricks to it) we're
glad to help you. Look at it this way, she's only a couple years old and she could live to be 30-40 years with good genes & good luck. Wouldn't it be nicer for
everyone (her too) if she calmed down & learned to be a good pet again?

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Originally Posted by BonnieBallPython

I haven't tried hook training. A couple of friends have suggested it to me as well as using thick gloves that could protect me from a bite. I'm seriously considering getting a hook or finding something hook-like that wouldn't hurt her but could hold her weight.
Thank you for suggesting it.

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You don't use the hook to pick the snake up. You use the hook to gently rub or 'tap' the snake before you use your hands to pick it up. You can also use a paper towel roll.

Doing this consistently before you handle or do anything in the cage will switch off the feeding/defensive response and condition the snake to realise that you're not a threat or dinner.

You shouldn't pick a snake up with just a hook as it can damage the spine.

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Does she have a hot spot to digest on? 80 is fine for a cool side if a hot spot is present, but a little low if you're only doing ambients.

How many mice are you feeding her? If she's 4 feet long she's going to probably need several to fill her up.

At that age I'm hoping you're feeding her multiple mice per feeding. If not, then I think you have your answer. A single mouse for her will leave her hungry, and likely lead to her aggression.

, & if you need help switching her from live (it takes patience but there's tricks to it) we're
glad to help you.

hi guys/girls. im really sorry if im hijacking the thread, but could you please share the tips on how to do this..

i have a (wild born) baby house snake (south african BROWN HOUSE) that has taken two live geckos, but i want to get it onto pinkies.. its going to be hard for me to get hold of gecko's, and pinks will be ideal.. but i can only frozen pinks.

i tried a frozen thawed pink, the snake struck, i dropped the pink and moved off.. snake just lay next to pink, but did not take...

i will admit, the snake had just been moved from wild to a tank with some decor. but i feel it was still getting used to its new home.. it took the first gecko about a week later and the second two weeks after that. its cage is really clean and i have a heating pad and water and the snake has really calmed down i;ve handled it several times where it seems to be calm. the snake is often out from the two hides and likes to mission around and climb things and sit on top of stuff so i think its comfortable.

any tips please.

ps its still kinda coldish here, but this is a juvenile and i want it to start feeding plus now im keeping him warm now...

rory

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Originally Posted by rrory

, & if you need help switching her from live (it takes patience but there's tricks to it) we're
glad to help you.

hi guys/girls. im really sorry if im hijacking the thread, but could you please share the tips on how to do this..

i have a (wild born) baby house snake (south african BROWN HOUSE) that has taken two live geckos, but i want to get it onto pinkies.. its going to be hard for me to get hold of gecko's, and pinks will be ideal.. but i can only frozen pinks.

i tried a frozen thawed pink, the snake struck, i dropped the pink and moved off.. snake just lay next to pink, but did not take...

i will admit, the snake had just been moved from wild to a tank with some decor. but i feel it was still getting used to its new home.. it took the first gecko about a week later and the second two weeks after that. its cage is really clean and i have a heating pad and water and the snake has really calmed down i;ve handled it several times where it seems to be calm. the snake is often out from the two hides and likes to mission around and climb things and sit on top of stuff so i think its comfortable.

any tips please.

ps its still kinda coldish here, but this is a juvenile and i want it to start feeding plus now im keeping him warm now...

rory

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This would truly be better in it's own thread...you've put this under Ball Pythons, where others who keep House Snakes likely will NOT see it to respond.

First off, you mentioned that you handled the snake: please never do that with ANY snake until it's feeding EASILY for you at least 3 times at normal intervals.
That could be your problem right there. Snakes rely on instincts...and anything that picks them up is normally a predator about to eat them! Snakes under stress
tend not to eat, so the new caging + handling probably guaranteed your failure to get him to eat...ok?

In general, feed snakes when they'd normally hunt...are these nocturnal? If so, feed only at night. If they like to see motion to pounce on (& most do), you'll need
to be a "ninja"*....sit there holding prey with tongs, & try to imitate the motions of natural prey with the pinkie. DO not shove the pinkie towards the snake, as that's
a turn-off...it's NOT what prey does; in nature, they are typically "walking by" when ambushed by a snake. *Keep yourself as still as possible while feeding so as not
to be a distraction...and dim the lights for a night hunter also. If he doesn't take it from tongs, try leaving it in his cage over-night & check next day...it may be gone.

Even the tips to switch BPs may differ somewhat when working with House Snakes (-which, btw, I never have). ;) For example, the warming the prey generally
is needed for BPs but probably not for house snakes. I would think that your best bet is to scent the f/t pinkies with what your house snake generally eats.

Also, since it appears to NOT like pinkies at the moment (or is too stressed to take them?) your best bet is to thaw the pinkies in cold water (& it won't take long!),
since more of the mouse smell gets washed off the pinkie when thawed in water. Then blot it gently on a paper towel, & add some "scent" from a gecko if you can.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rrory

...ps its still kinda coldish here, but this is a juvenile and i want it to start feeding plus now im keeping him warm now...rory

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Also, the proper temperatures in the cage should help also...you mentioned "keeping him warm now", I hope he eats for you...they typically do take pinkies OK.

If he was cold before when you offered, that alone could have caused his refusal. When you keep snakes in captivity & allow them to get cold, they instinctively
may assume it's time to hibernate & stop eating for the season; for this reason, it's always best to set up the cage ahead of time, before putting a snake in it.