Hook Training Instruction Thread with Video

I haven't seen a thread on hook training yet (honestly, I didn't search, but I am on here pretty often and have yet to see a thread on it). Many people ask about it, especially those with either larger snakes, snakes that are going to be large but aren't yet, and snakes with strong food responses.

My Female BCI, Behira, nailed me in a clear food response bite at about 600G and about 1 1/2 years old. No big deal. However, I didn't want a repeat at 7FT and 7,000G! She has an incredibly strong food response, but otherwise, is a total sweetheart.

I began hook training her, and now, at over 2 years old and about 1,000G, have yet to have anything close to an incident since.

I have a video link below (cannot post Imgur on here yet, but I'll see if I can post it embedded later) that shows what I am about to describe with my baby girl, Behira (she's a Ghost BCI - Hypo Anery - in case anyone is curious).

First, a few basic rules:

1. The hook is used to let the snake know it's handling time and/or snap them out of food response mode.

2. It is a training/desensitizing tool and in most cases, should only be used to let the snake know it's time to come out and play and THE HOOK SHOULD NOT BE USED TO GRAB THE SNAKE.

3. It takes some time to hook train a snake. They don't think like we do and have to be conditioned more than trained. We can't explain it to them so they need to learn with repetition.

4. BE CONSISTENT!

5. DO NOT USE THE HOOK WHEN FEEDING! Only use it when handling. This makes a clear distinction. Hook = fun time. No hook and prey = FOOD TIME!

Now, how I use the hook.

To be clear, I use the soft (make sure it's soft) handle of the hook, not the hook itself (you can use anything that doesn't smell like food - paper towel insert, golf club handle, etc. - However, be consistent - same object every time and make sure it's sanitized).

1. Gently touch the snake with the handle and either tap, or gently rub, them with it. Choose tap or rub, but again CONSISTENCY is KEY!

2. Show the hook handle to the snake while touching them, after touching them, or before touching them. Again, just be consistent and #1 and #2 can be reversed.

Often Behira just sees the hook handle now and says, oh, doesn't smell like food, time to come out.

3. Repeat either both steps #1 and #2, or either one, preferably the rubbing or tapping part, again and read the snakes body language. The snake may tense up in response to the stimuli initially, but then settle down. Watch the tongue as well (part of body language). Is it coming out short and quick or long and wide strokes that are slow (happy tongue)? Is the snake tense even when not being touched with the hook, or does he/she appear relaxed?

4. Reach in and pick up the snake.

Optional: When beginning the process, or if unsure of the snakes body language at the time, you can use the handle as a block. In other words, hold it closer to the snakes head/neck area (on the snakes side - don't pin them down) and pick them up more from midsection to upper body. This way, if you happen to startle them, the hook is a line of defense.

Behira has been in S position, ready to nail a rat, and I've had to stroke her quite a few times with the hook to get her to relax, but it works pretty much without fail now. The other day, full S position, head and neck an inch off the ground. 3-4 rubs to get her to think maybe it isn't food time, and another 3-4 rubs to get her to put her head down and get picked up. However, it worked.

Is it foolproof? No, but between the hook and reading your animal, you should be in pretty good shape.

One note on the rubbing, I try to rub side and upper back. I try not to get under her body or directly on the spine. I am always gentle.

Without further ado, the video showing exactly how I pick up Behira with the hook now:



https://i.imgur.com/5kgF1uw.mp4

Looks fine dakski
Obviously would of been a bit easier for you if she wasn't in her hide

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I've hook trained my Burm since I've had her. Only took a week for her to tame down

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Great thread, dakski!

Very helpful video and happy I finally for to see Behira in action! I was familiar w/ the technique of Hook Training but never realized it was best to use the handle and not the hook to caress the snake. Also, I like how you shield Behira's head as you attempt to pick her up.

very nice!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckuhn003

I was familiar w/ the technique of Hook Training but never realized it was best to use the handle and not the hook to caress the snake.

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I use the hook end, you can use anything, even a roll of paper towels, the key is just to knock them out of food mode by the touch.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AbsoluteApril

very nice!



I use the hook end, you can use anything, even a roll of paper towels, the key is just to knock them out of food mode by the touch.

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Thanks for clarifying AbsoluteApril!

I agree. I use the handle, but as stated, you can use anything. Just be consistent.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ckuhn003

Very helpful video and happy I finally for to see Behira in action! I was familiar w/ the technique of Hook Training but never realized it was best to use the handle and not the hook to caress the snake. Also, I like how you shield Behira's head as you attempt to pick her up.

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Thanks Ckuhn003!

As stated by AbsoluteApril, you can use the hook, I like the hook handle, it doesn't matter, just be consistent.

I made sure to shield Behira's head in the video, but usually her body language is such that I know I don't need to. I only do that when she seems a little on edge or hungry as an added precaution. To be clear, she's never even attempted a strike since hook training.

Paper towel roll is pretty short though, I think you want it to be longer than strike range. Old golf club should work and they're pretty cheap.

I've been trying to hook-train my white-lipped python, but no matter what, he immediately gets defensive :(

Very cool thread. Thank you

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dboeren

Paper towel roll is pretty short though, I think you want it to be longer than strike range.

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Well it depends on the snake and what they are doing. If generally docile and sleeping in a coil, paper towel roll is fine to wake them up plus smaller snakes have a shorter strike range :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PiperPython

I've been trying to hook-train my white-lipped python, but no matter what, he immediately gets defensive :(

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defensive is different than knocking them out of food drive.
As most snakes get older and bigger, then aren't as defensive as they grow more confident.
Some take a lot more work than others.
Hook training plus shield usage usually can work to get them out, then gentle and secure handling over time can help knock out the defensiveness. Some are just more touchy than others and some are always going to be crabby about handling.
I hope things get better with time

Funny I have read this thread not long ago and now after getting a Boa and had it recommended must say it’s a good read. When I was at the pet store buying my Boa the gal that assisted me just went right in with a hook and picked her up. Needless to say the snake was not happy and striking at the worker who admitted the snake doesn’t much care for her. Kinda rings a bell with the recommendation in this write up to not use to pick up.
I figure I can train all three of my snakes this way, seems like a consistent way to communicate it’s time for handling.

An update to this thread.

Behira was rearing to go tonight and wanted food. She was ready to strike and darty and had a fast tongue, etc.

The lights were on (I always feed at night with the lights off - and that's when I get door strikes from her), but she was still in "hunt" mode as it was getting late and near lights out and feeding time (although she's off by 10 days :)).

I used the hook to calm here down and spontaneously shot an iPhone video of it (one handed - sorry for the poor camera work, and for the socks with crocks - it's cold here in CT and it's not like I wore them out or knew I was going to shoot a video :)).

I hope it's helpful for everyone, especially about reading snake body language.

Video of getting Behira out of food mode and ready to be picked up and handled: https://streamable.com/xdizt



Before the hook

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/TTUZPL7.jpg


2 Minutes after being out


https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/B1aMDBi.jpg

I use a drumstick. lol I just give them a rub and if they look like they are in a mood to be handled I'll handle them. If not, I let it go. Just for the boas. I don't do anything special for the BPs. I just pick them up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cletus

I use a drumstick. lol I just give them a rub and if they look like they are in a mood to be handled I'll handle them. If not, I let it go. Just for the boas. I don't do anything special for the BPs. I just pick them up.

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Rock on Cletus!

Seriously, I don't worry about Shayna (BP) at all. She has about the weakest food response of any snake I've ever met. She usually take the F/T rat gently and drags into her house quietly to eat. She also doesn't have a mean/defensive bone in her body.

I posted this on Feliz's (my BCC) thread. Hook training works amazingly well and I was surprised how well it worked in that situation.

I had a friend over and Feliz was striking the acrylic doors hoping for food. I opened the tank, showed him the hook handle and rubbed him a few times with it. He let me pick him up a few seconds later and was a total sweetheart.

Hook training working wonders.

My friend's mind was blown. He went from being petrified of him to holding him. He is not afraid of snakes, but did not like Feliz going after the doors.

I have three boas now, and all three, and my carpet python, are hook trained.

I've had the boas in hunt mode and snapped them out pretty quick with the hook method. However, tonight was a first. Lights out in tanks and feeding time, I went to take out Behira (now about 5 1/2 feet and almost 2K grams). She immediately nailed the door in a food response, but I quickly opened the door and showed her the hook handle and rubbed her neck and down her body. Within two rubs she was calm and let me pick her up with zero issues.

I wanted to point out that I am never worried during the day/lights on taking any of animals out especially with the hook. However, I had no idea how Behira would react to a nighttime/feeding time. She came through with flying colors.

Another point for hook training.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dakski

I have three boas now, and all three, and my carpet python, are hook trained.

I've had the boas in hunt mode and snapped them out pretty quick with the hook method. However, tonight was a first. Lights out in tanks and feeding time, I went to take out Behira (now about 5 1/2 feet and almost 2K grams). She immediately nailed the door in a food response, but I quickly opened the door and showed her the hook handle and rubbed her neck and down her body. Within two rubs she was calm and let me pick her up with zero issues.

I wanted to point out that I am never worried during the day/lights on taking any of animals out especially with the hook. However, I had no idea how Behira would react to a nighttime/feeding time. She came through with flying colors.

Another point for hook training.

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It's amazing how these animals respond with continuous repetition from experienced and responsible keepers like yourself. I'm a big believer in hook training and would recommend it to anyone with food aggressive snakes.

I don't think I need to use this on my bp, but if I do get a larger more food aggressive snake this threat has been super helpful.