My First Boa

So I had a ball python when I was ~8 years old and my dad ended up rehoming it due to lack of caring for it.

I decided to get this Boa yesterday. Not sure if it’s a male or female yet, and she was poorly taken care of at the store, so we’re hoping to nurse her back to good health and get a little bit of girth back on her!

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Congratulations on your new little boa and good luck with turning her health around


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Originally Posted by richardhind1972

Congratulations on your new little boa and good luck with turning her health around


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Thanks! I’m really excited about it, but nervous at the same time. We brought her home last night and she spent the evening hiding but has been out and about today, largely curious and climbing up walls and seeing what’s going on. Yesterday was scheduled feeding day at the store, so hopefully she will take well to a mouse tonight!


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If she’s roaming already,I don’t think you will have a problem eating,boas are pretty good a lunch times


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Originally Posted by richardhind1972

If she’s roaming already,I don’t think you will have a problem eating,boas are pretty good a lunch times


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Well apparently she had "trouble" eating at the store, for quite some time, which is why she's extremely slender for her age.

They did say she was refusing pinkies but accepted fuzzies. I've got one thawing in warm water now, ready to go in about an hour.

I'm just new to this, so hopefully she enjoys it!

Oh, and the store was seriously neglecting her environmental requirements. They kept the entire enclosure around 78-80 degrees, and RH was under 40 on one end and under 30 on the other end.

I've got her (or him) at 90 on the warm end, and 80 on the cool end, with a RH hovering around 60% at about 4 inches off the substrate. I just realized I absolutely need to get a thermostat for the UTH I'm using. Should the probe go under the substrate inside the enclosure?

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Originally Posted by Tpot

Oh, and the store was seriously neglecting her environmental requirements. They kept the entire enclosure around 78-80 degrees, and RH was under 40 on one end and under 30 on the other end.

I've got her (or him) at 90 on the warm end, and 80 on the cool end, with a RH hovering around 60% at about 4 inches off the substrate. I just realized I absolutely need to get a thermostat for the UTH I'm using. Should the probe go under the substrate inside the enclosure?

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The probe should be suspended several inches from the ground but not touching the wall. Then use an infrared temp gun to calibrate the actual basking temp. It stops the snake moving or laying on it or peeing on it.

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Congrats on the new boa. Im adding one to my collection this week. It'll be my first boa too so we can learn together. If you're using a uth I'd place the t-stat probe between the uth and the bottom outside of the enclosure. Your warm hide should go directly over that spot on the inside. I usually have to set my thermostat at 92-94 to get an interior surface temperature hot spot of 86-88.

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Originally Posted by EL-Ziggy

Congrats on the new boa. Im adding one to my collection this week. It'll be my first boa too so we can learn together. If you're using a uth I'd place the t-stat probe between the uth and the bottom outside of the enclosure. Your warm hide should go directly over that spot on the inside. I usually have to set my thermostat at 92-94 to get an interior surface temperature hot spot of 86-88.

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He/she shouldn't really be using a UTH for a tropical species as they require the air to be warm as well as the objects in the enclosure. UTH uses infra red energy to heat objects but the air remains cool. That's good for a temperate species but for a Boa you ideally need a ceramic heat emmiter or radiant heat panel. Then again it also depends on where you live. This is what I meant when I was talking about probe positioning for a CHE or radiant heat panel earlier.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...10145d51c8.jpg

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Originally Posted by Valyrian

He/she shouldn't really be using a UTH for a tropical species as they require the air to be warm as well as the objects in the enclosure. UTH uses infra red energy to heat objects but the air remains cool. That's good for a temperate species but for a Boa you ideally need a ceramic heat emmiter or radiant heat panel. Then again it also depends on where you live. This is what I meant when I was talking about probe positioning for a CHE or radiant heat panel earlier.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...10145d51c8.jpg

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I am using a bulb for heating, and the air temperature remains about 88-90 on the warm side of the tank, measured about 4 inches off the substrate, and about an inch in from the glass.

Same setup on the cool side of the tank reads about 80 degrees. I’ve read to use a UTH to help radiate heat upwards on the basking spot, if this isn’t recommended, I will just worry about the air temperature inside the tank.

Any thoughts on how I should proceed?

Oh and as a reference, I’m currently using a 20 gallon long tank since she’s fairly small still.


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Originally Posted by Tpot

I am using a bulb for heating, and the air temperature remains about 88-90 on the warm side of the tank, measured about 4 inches off the substrate, and about an inch in from the glass.

Same setup on the cool side of the tank reads about 80 degrees. I’ve read to use a UTH to help radiate heat upwards on the basking spot, if this isn’t recommended, I will just worry about the air temperature inside the tank.

Any thoughts on how I should proceed?

Oh and as a reference, I’m currently using a 20 gallon long tank since she’s fairly small still.


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Ah I see. That's a good idea in a glass tank because they hold heat very poorly. Wooden (sealed) and plastic enclosures hold heat and humidity extremely well so a UTH would not be required in that scenario.

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Originally Posted by Valyrian

Ah I see. That's a good idea in a glass tank because they hold heat very poorly. Wooden (sealed) and plastic enclosures hold heat and humidity extremely well so a UTH would not be required in that scenario.

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Ah thanks for the information!

Feeding was almost a success. She followed it around the tank, but wouldn’t quite strike. She acted like she was going to a couple times and bailed.

I’m going to try and get the fuzzy a little bit warmer so she has an easier time pinpointing the location.

If she doesn’t take it warmed up a bit more, I’ll wait until next feeding day.


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@ OP- You could get away with just the heat bulb only and forego the uth. I do add a uth with my CHEs in the winter months though just for surface warmth. You may also have better luck feeding your critter after dark. If he doesn't strike at the prey just leave it for a few hours or overnight even.

@ Valyrian- The OP indicated they were using a uth so I was only commenting on uth probe placement. I do agree with you that probe placement for a CHE or RHP would be different. I try to avoid using terms like should or shouldn't because they're subjective. As with most things, including heating reptile enclosures, there are multiple ways to achieve a desired result. I keep mostly pythons and colubrids. Some are terrestrial and the others are semi-arboreal. I use UTHs and CHEs effectively but I still think RHPs are the most efficient heating source. My new enclosures will have RHPs but my tubs, tanks, and other pvc enclosures all have their temps and humidity dialed in fairly precisely. It doesn't matter how you heat them just that you give them the proper temps and humidity which you can do in a variety of ways.

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Originally Posted by EL-Ziggy

@ OP- You could get away with just the heat bulb only and forego the uth. I do add a uth with my CHEs in the winter months though just for surface warmth. You may also have better luck feeding your critter after dark. If he doesn't strike at the prey just leave it for a few hours or overnight even.

@ Valyrian- The OP indicated they were using a uth so I was only commenting on uth probe placement. I do agree with you that probe placement for a CHE or RHP would be different. I try to avoid using terms like should or shouldn't because they're subjective. As with most things, including heating reptile enclosures, there are multiple ways to achieve a desired result. I keep mostly pythons and colubrids. Some are terrestrial and the others are semi-arboreal. I use UTHs and CHEs effectively but I still think RHPs are the most efficient heating source. My new enclosures will have RHPs but my tubs, tanks, and other pvc enclosures all have their temps and humidity dialed in fairly precisely. It doesn't matter how you heat them just that you give them the proper temps and humidity which you can do in a variety of ways.

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Actually try number two worked pretty well! She was really slow to strike and had to have her mouth up against the fuzzy for 10-15 seconds before she went for it. But it’s all the way down and she seems pretty satisfied.

She’s almost looking around for more, but I’m not sure about how to go about that at her current size.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c8543582cb.jpg


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Really glad she/he ate for you


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Originally Posted by richardhind1972

Really glad she/he ate for you


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Me too! I’m surprised she ate so soon, especially considering I’m now reading you should wait a bit longer, like a week or so. But she seemed ready to go and relatively comfortable since she was already out exploring .


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Congrats on the first successful feeding TP. Only 649 more to go. :)

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Originally Posted by EL-Ziggy

Congrats on the first successful feeding TP. Only 649 more to go. :)

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That's fine with me :D I'm just ecstatic that she took the first one today. She nice and curled up under the heat lamp snoozing away it seems. Hopefully she'll be fully digested and good to go in a couple days without spitting it back out. I'll be completely satisfied then :D

Congratulations! Boas are amazing :D :gj:

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Originally Posted by Tpot

Actually try number two worked pretty well! She was really slow to strike and had to have her mouth up against the fuzzy for 10-15 seconds before she went for it. But it’s all the way down and she seems pretty satisfied.

She’s almost looking around for more, but I’m not sure about how to go about that at her current size....

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Some snakes have had bad experiences with live food and maybe that's why she was hesitant to take the prey- "too much motion". Snakes have personal preferences.

Whatever you do, don't try to rush putting weight on her. Feeding too much or too soon will overwhelm her digestion & she might hurl it, which would make things
worse as you'd have to wait longer until her digestive enzymes get replaced (otherwise she'd hurl the next meal too, if fed too soon). Most snakes act like they want
more after eating...just learn to ignore that pathetic look. ;) I'd feed her about once a week for now & one item per meal, as long as she is digesting well etc.
(and pinks are the wrong food for her anyway, fuzzies are what's best att)

BTW, the substrate you're using looks great but it's better to use white paper towels at first with new snakes, while you make sure they don't have mites. Do watch for
that (tiny specks moving, on snake or often in water bowl)...especially since she's already skinny, a mite population explosion could kill her. (seriously)

But with your "TLC" she'll hopefully thrive...:gj: We look forward to seeing that almost as much as you do.

I would wait a week for her to digest it properly before feeding again,boas have a slower metabolism than pythons


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Originally Posted by richardhind1972

I would wait a week for her to digest it properly before feeding again,boas have a slower metabolism than pythons


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Yup, Sundays will be feeding days. I've been keeping a close eye on her since she ate at this time yesterday. She is finally starting to uncurl and seems to be relatively comfortable.

In 24-48 hours I will give her a handling and see how shes doing! I have to say, we've had a lot of pets, but this one is definitely MY baby.

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Some snakes have had bad experiences with live food and maybe that's why she was hesitant to take the prey- "too much motion". Snakes have personal preferences.

Whatever you do, don't try to rush putting weight on her. Feeding too much or too soon will overwhelm her digestion & she might hurl it, which would make things
worse as you'd have to wait longer until her digestive enzymes get replaced (otherwise she'd hurl the next meal too, if fed too soon). Most snakes act like they want
more after eating...just learn to ignore that pathetic look. ;) I'd feed her about once a week for now & one item per meal, as long as she is digesting well etc.
(and pinks are the wrong food for her anyway, fuzzies are what's best att)

BTW, the substrate you're using looks great but it's better to use white paper towels at first with new snakes, while you make sure they don't have mites. Do watch for
that (tiny specks moving, on snake or often in water bowl)...especially since she's already skinny, a mite population explosion could kill her. (seriously)

But with your "TLC" she'll hopefully thrive...:gj: We look forward to seeing that almost as much as you do.

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Thanks for the inspiring words! I inspected her extremely close when I got her, and she came from a Petco as a lone-snake as well. I've been keeping a seriously close eye on her since she came home two days ago will also be sending her first stool sample into a vet to get it checked out.

She was refusing the frozen pinkies at Petco, so we're doing fuzzies, and she seems to be doing really well with it. She's finally showing more movement and comfort after eating ~24 hours ago.

The plan is one fuzzy a week on Sundays, until she grows a bit and is ready for hoppers (i think?).

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Originally Posted by Tpot

...I inspected her extremely close when I got her, and she came from a Petco as a lone-snake as well. I've been keeping a seriously close eye on her since she came home two days ago will also be sending her first stool sample into a vet to get it checked out....

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Just remember that she wasn't always a "lone snake", even if she was while temporarily living @ Petco, and I commend you for planning to have her stool checked.

As far as her refusing pinkies while there, she was probably more stressed then...and they may have been handling her beforehand too. Even well-meaning people
don't always think about how shy snakes are (ie. how instinctively threatening it is for a snake to be handled) & that alone can make them refuse to eat. But snakes
do learn they are safe with us, & there's no rush...eating & settling in is "job #1" for a snake. Stress affects all creatures negatively, & you want her immune system
working optimally, so honestly it's best not to handle any new snake until they've fed 2 or 3 times easily for you (& this one isn't starting off in the best condition).
But give her time, and she will be. ;)

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Just remember that she wasn't always a "lone snake", even if she was while temporarily living @ Petco, and I commend you for planning to have her stool checked.

As far as her refusing pinkies while there, she was probably more stressed then...and they may have been handling her beforehand too. Even well-meaning people
don't always think about how shy snakes are (ie. how instinctively threatening it is for a snake to be handled) & that alone can make them refuse to eat. But snakes
do learn they are safe with us, & there's no rush...eating & settling in is "job #1" for a snake. Stress affects all creatures negatively, & you want her immune system
working optimally, so honestly it's best not to handle any new snake until they've fed 2 or 3 times easily for you (& this one isn't starting off in the best condition).
But give her time, and she will be. ;)

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Okay sounds good! I called my local exotic animal hospital, I’ll drop off the first stool sample and we plan on doing an overall exam in a few weeks. That might as well be the first time I handle her then.


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Believe me, I KNOW it's torture to not cuddle a new snake...

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Believe me, I KNOW it's torture to not cuddle a new snake...

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Oh I definitely want to hang out with her, but I prefer whats best for her. If that means leaving her be, I'm cool with that.

If anyone cares to give me some insight here (I've got a infrared thermometer incoming too), I was curious about how big of temp swings were okay in the night time hours.

Daytime hours tend to be 89-91F on the "warm side" and 80-83 on the "cool side".

Nighttime hours drop to 84-86 on the "warm side" and 78-80 on the "cool side".

These temperatures are measured about 5 inches off the substrate, and an inch from the glass.