We have a winner!

Well it looks like the Boa won this round. The Scrub placed 2nd and the SD retic was 3rd. Don't worry, we'll be back at it again soon! This guy is shipping on Monday for delivery next Tuesday. Feel free to share any name suggestions :). I like his light and dark phases. I think that's pretty cool. He's a 2017 critter and eating small rats which means I don't have to order any new food. Yay!

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/WtKCeIA.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/QC6JLYJ.jpg

Well a big congratulations and he sure is one sweet looking boa.

Congratulations el-Ziggy you chose wisely [emoji16]
What a stunning motley boa you have there , your gonna love his light and dark phases


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Beautiful boa, but he's the wrong gender for that "hourglass figure"? :rolleyes: (referring to his marking, obviously?)

Awesome choice, my friend!!! Your collection just keeps getting better! :gj:

Nice Motley, Ziggy.

Gorgeous boa! May as well just name him "Winner" lol.

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I didn't even know about the competition but your new boa looks pretty nice.

Gorgeous! So happy for you!!

A winning name suggestion - Cassius (for Cassius Clay - ultimate winner :))

Thanks y'all. I'd seen a lot of critters, some even nicer than this one, but there was something about him that drew me in. Every time I came back to his pics my inner voice would say, "That's the one". I fought it for a few days but finally gave in. Gotta follow your heart sometimes ;). I don't know or care about morphs or locales, I'm really just into critters that I like, but for those of you that are interested I'm told dad's an IMG het anery and mom's a sharp albino motley. Whatever that means. :)

There ya go!!

Everybody that likes snakes should have a boa constrictor!

Well that should be interesting watching him progress el Ziggy.
so have you brought him as an IMG motley ?
He will be stunning as he ages if he is, as he will get really black,
I really love my motley I love his silver sides and side stripe and his jet black top has even got a few double saddles(hour glasses) like yours
Definitely a good choice el Ziggy

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@ Richard- I bought him as just a 2017 Motley. The seller gave me the genetic info when we spoke on the phone. It really didn't mean much to me since I don't know much about boas and have no breeding plans. I've seen some of the IMGs. Those things are bad***. They're still quite pricey though. He said the dad was almost solid black so I'm hoping my guy inherits some of those darker traits.

congrats Ziggy! after all that's said and done w/ everyone chirping, i'm really glad that u picked the critter that spoke to u most! he's gonna be long, dark and handsome. how about the name Silverstein? it's all fun but i think a name will come to u from within. :)

Beautiful Boa! Congrats!

Not clear, is he your first BCI, or Boa in general?

Quite a few users on here who are pretty good with Boa's. Don't be shy with questions either way.

Yes img motley’s would be a few thousand dollars that’s for sure,he really is stunning, he should be nice and dark still anyway and 100% sharp albino a proper winner.you have been mentioning lately how much you like the dark boas,they really are great
Can’t wait to watch his progression


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you made a great decision! Boas are awesome

YEAH!!! Boa's get the "W" this time... Congrats Ziggy :winner:

Gorgeous...name him Champ!

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by dakski

Beautiful Boa! Congrats!

Not clear, is he your first BCI, or Boa in general?

Quite a few users on here who are pretty good with Boa's. Don't be shy with questions either way.

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@ Dakski- He's my first boa. I wanted another large critter and since I already have a few nice sized pythons I decided to take the boa challenge. I've seen so many beautiful boas on the forums and FB that I simply couldn't resist. They may not be as lengthy as my Olive, Bredli, or Coastal but their powerful heavy bodies are still quite impressive.
I've done a lot of reading and research but I love hearing from folks with hands on experience. I would like to hear how y'all feed and keep em. My impression is they're pretty straightforward. Hot spot of 88-90F. Ambients around 78-82. Cool side low-mid 70s. Are they hardy critters though? Can they handle colder temps in the winter? Do you all shut off their food in winter?
Speaking of food. I've read and heard that every 7-10 days is cool for the first 1-2 years and every 2-4 weeks thereafter is a pretty good feeding regiment for boas. Are any of you doing anything much different? Any other insights to share? I'm all ears. :)

He looks awesome ziggy! I vote Arnold for his name.


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Yeah, if you've never had a boa it's worth getting one at some point. They're really nice snakes, I always thought boas were like driving luxury cars - kind of smooth and refined. I'm tempted to get a boa for my next snake too after I get my short-tail.

Nice analogy DB. I like smooth and refined :). I'm also looking forward to having a more laid back critter (hopefully). My pythons and bulls are all pretty active when you handle them. I've heard quite a few keepers say how chill their boas are. We can watch the games and fights together. :)

Ziggy, Contrats!! Welcome to the Boa Club buddy, I'm glad you're in. :gj:

You mentioned on your first post that he's eating small rats, I think that's too big for him. I'll let Gio and Sauzo chime in on that one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RickyNY

Ziggy, Contrats!! Welcome to the Boa Club buddy, I'm glad you're in. :gj:

You mentioned on your first post that he's eating small rats, I think that's too big for him. I'll let Gio and Sauzo chime in on that one.

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Thanks Rick. The breeder did say that the small rats are on the smaller end of the spectrum but they're larger than weaners. It's all good though I've got a few of those too. The weaners and smalls were supposed to last my youngest carpet until year's end but it's not the end of the world if I have to order food sooner.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EL-Ziggy

@ Dakski- He's my first boa. I wanted another large critter and since I already have a few nice sized pythons I decided to take the boa challenge. I've seen so many beautiful boas on the forums and FB that I simply couldn't resist. They may not be as lengthy as my Olive, Bredli, or Coastal but their powerful heavy bodies are still quite impressive.
I've done a lot of reading and research but I love hearing from folks with hands on experience. I would like to hear how y'all feed and keep em. My impression is they're pretty straightforward. Hot spot of 88-90F. Ambients around 78-82. Cool side low-mid 70s. Are they hardy critters though? Can they handle colder temps in the winter? Do you all shut off their food in winter?
Speaking of food. I've read and heard that every 7-10 days is cool for the first 1-2 years and every 2-4 weeks thereafter is a pretty good feeding regiment for boas. Are any of you doing anything much different? Any other insights to share? I'm all ears. :)

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El-Ziggy,

Welcome to Boa ownership; they are awesome snakes and tend to be pretty laid back when handled regularly and not expecting food.

Here are my temps:

Hot spot: 87-89, 88F average. It's a big hot spot. About 2X1' on the heat tape alone and around 86-87F even 1/2 a foot away from there more towards to middle of the 6X2' tank I have Behira in.

Ambient: 81-84F

Cool side: 78-81F.

I don't let anything get over 90F and I don't let anything get below about 78F.

Humidity is important. I keep it about 55-65% (or more in the summer - closer to 70-75%) and raise to 80%+ when in shed. Humidity should not drop below 55% for any extended period.

They are very hardy when given proper temps and humidity. BCI's tend to be a little more flexible with the humidity than the BCC's, from what I have read. An occasional drop or high humidity for some time doesn't seem to bother them.

Feeding: Slow grown is the way to go with Boa's. If grown too fast they can actually put on mass faster than their organs can handle and die very young. If obese when older, that also shortens life span significantly. Looks for mean and lean! In looks, not temperament.

Also, less is more with prey size as well. Some people say make a nice bulge, but not so much that's not gone in a 2 days. I usually aim for a small bulge that is definitely gone by day two.

I got Behira at 440G (a little over 1 year old) and she ate weaned rats at that point.

Mice and weaned rats = every 7-10 days (I did every 7 but nothing too big).

Small rats (Behira eats these now - 70-90G or so and she's 950G - she averages 80G rats nows - probably borderline small, but better than too big): 1 every 14 days.

Medium rats: 1 every 21 days.

Large rats: Every 3-4 weeks.

Anything larger than large - every 4 weeks+.

I do not plan to feed rabbits or anything too fatty (rabbits are generally not fatty, but hard to get for me, and larger rats can be very fatty). So I will likely feed Behira, if 7,000-9,000G, 1-2 Large to XL rats (nothing over 400G) every 3-5 weeks, depending on if I feed one or two.

Males are smaller and probably will never need more than a Large rat to an XL rat. Again, BCI's stay noticeably smaller than BCC's.

Finally, hook train!

Boa's can have very strong food responses. Not the end of the world when small, but can be a lot worse when bigger.

I started hook training Behira at about 550-600G and we haven't had an issue since. She took very well to it.

As always, a dream when out, but getting her out after rubbing her with the hook and her realizing there is no food coming, is much easier!

Anything else, feel free to ask or PM buddy.

David

Thx David.

The only thing that concerns me is the ambient temps dropping below 78 in the winter. I close the air vents in the critter room during the summer so they're at 78-81 now. We're in a new house and this will be our 1st winter here but the daytime ambient temps during winter at our old place hovered around 75 and went as low as 70 on some winter nights. Will they be ok as long as they have a good hot spot? If not I can put a heater in the room. The new guy is going in a tub until some time next year so all he'll have is a UTH.
I use Reptile Prime bedding which holds humidity pretty well so I think I'll be ok there. It's easy to stay in the 55-75% range.
I usually cut 1back on the food quite a bit for most of my critters during the winter. They may eat once every 4-6 weeks and a couple of them don't eat at all from Nov-Mar. Is that ok for boas too or do you all feed year around?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RickyNY

Ziggy, Contrats!! Welcome to the Boa Club buddy, I'm glad you're in. :gj:

You mentioned on your first post that he's eating small rats, I think that's too big for him. I'll let Gio and Sauzo chime in on that one.

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I too first thought that as well when i saw he was a 2017 eating small rats. In the pic though, he looks pretty square and shaped still, not all round like a sausage. Just be sure to keep him on small size of smalls. Gina who will be 2 years next month and Louie who is 2 year old this month both are on weaned rats. Luna actually took her first small rat last night but it was a 'small' rat, probably just a smidge bigger than a weaned.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EL-Ziggy

Thx David.

The only thing that concerns me is the ambient temps dropping below 78 in the winter. I close the air vents in the critter room during the summer so they're at 78-81 now. We're in a new house and this will be our 1st winter here but the daytime ambient temps during winter at our old place hovered around 75 and went as low as 70 on some winter nights. Will they be ok as long as they have a good hot spot? If not I can put a heater in the room. The new guy is going in a tub until some time next year so all he'll have is a UTH.
I use Reptile Prime bedding which holds humidity pretty well so I think I'll be ok there. It's easy to stay in the 55-75% range.
I usually cut 1back on the food quite a bit for most of my critters during the winter. They may eat once every 4-6 weeks and a couple of them don't eat at all from Nov-Mar. Is that ok for boas too or do you all feed year around?

---

I personally wouldnt let it drop below 75F but anything from there to 80F for an ambient should be fine as long as you are offering a warm spot around 88F. Boas generally dont like it hot and all of mine prefer it around 78-80F. Anything hotter in ambient temps and they start to get restless and push and pace the front of the cage.

As for humidity, 55% is pretty low. I dont let it drop below 60%. I just do a nice heavy misting with a pump sprayer once a week to simulate rain and then let it dry out. Usually goes from around 80% down to 65%. And the boas seems to like it. After the misting, i will usually catch them all outside stretched out on the cool wet substrate lol.

You can winterize boas. A lot do and a lot dont. Really comes down to your preference. I personally dont do the whole temp drop and no food full on winterizing. I do tend to space their feedings out a little longer in the winter unless it is a baby, which in that case, i feel they should eat a little more. Once they are a couple years or older, then i slow them down.

@ Sauzo- Thanks for the tips.

I have a few weaned rats left and the small rats that I have aren't much larger. I'll be sure to feed him the smaller prey first. I'll probably have to order more feeders sooner than I'd planned, which isn't too big of a deal, even though the rest of my critters have food for the next 3-5 months. Do any of you feed your boas mice or chicks? I like offering a varied diet and all my other snakes eat whatever I give them. I've heard boas aren't very picky when it comes to food.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EL-Ziggy

@ Sauzo- Thanks for the tips.

I have a few weaned rats left and the small rats that I have aren't much larger. I'll be sure to feed him the smaller prey first. I'll probably have to order more feeders sooner than I'd planned, which isn't too big of a deal, even though the rest of my critters have food for the next 3-5 months. Do any of you feed your boas mice or chicks? I like offering a varied diet and all my other snakes eat whatever I give them. I've heard boas aren't very picky when it comes to food.

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Yeah, i have fed them chicks and quails. But not until they were much larger. Rosey is pretty handicapped when it comes to eating quails. She cant grasp the concept of wings and spends like 30 mins eating one lol. Vicky and Caesar are poultry pros and down them pretty quick. Havent fed Gina, Louie or Luna any as like i said, they are still on weaned rats so even a baby chick is going to be too big.

And yes, boas are not picky. Mine eats anything you offer.

I’ve fed my boas chicks too,with no problems small rat Werner’s are not that much bigger than a large mouse I. The U.K. and my 1 year Hypo harlequin is on them no problems
Here my 4 year motley tonight after work,he’s really dark grey tonight so I reckon he will be in shed by weekend
I just call him “Motley”
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d7e92395e9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...36c955f540.jpg my snakes don’t like the decking and always hunker down for grip and all seem to put there tail tip into the crack for anchorage,lol
Here’s a couple of the babies he produce last year
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6962c4270a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5b5143a535.jpg


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by EL-Ziggy

Thx David.

The only thing that concerns me is the ambient temps dropping below 78 in the winter. I close the air vents in the critter room during the summer so they're at 78-81 now. We're in a new house and this will be our 1st winter here but the daytime ambient temps during winter at our old place hovered around 75 and went as low as 70 on some winter nights. Will they be ok as long as they have a good hot spot? If not I can put a heater in the room. The new guy is going in a tub until some time next year so all he'll have is a UTH.
I use Reptile Prime bedding which holds humidity pretty well so I think I'll be ok there. It's easy to stay in the 55-75% range.
I usually cut 1back on the food quite a bit for most of my critters during the winter. They may eat once every 4-6 weeks and a couple of them don't eat at all from Nov-Mar. Is that ok for boas too or do you all feed year around?

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I would not let it drop below 77-78F even on the cool side. Depending on what type of tank you have, there are easy ways to deal with this.

I have a 6X2' Boaphile for Behira. It has a RHP and Heat Tape on the left side/hot side. On the heat tape which is directly below the RHP (both controlled by the same thermostat), it gets 87-89F ground temp and averages about 88F. Even 4 FT away, on the ground, it's about 81F. However, being a 6FT tank, I have a smaller Heat Tape section on the cool side which serves two purposes. First, when it gets to 66-69F in the winter, it ensures that side doesn't drop below 79-80F. Secondly, I have one of Behira's water dishes over it so it evaporates more quickly and ups humidity.

I recommend a RHP with Heat Tape or a UTH for redundancy and because the RHP will also warm the air in the tank. The Heat tape/UTH pretty much only warm the spot they touch.

In a 4-5FT tank, you are probably okay with just heat on the hot side if well insulated (like a Boaphile, an AP, etc.). However, if the tank is bigger than that, 6FT+, I recommend heat tape/UTH for the cool side too. The worst case is it barely runs. The best case is it runs sometimes and ensures proper temps. Given the cost of a good tank, thermostat(s), etc. the incremental cost of heat tape is negligible.

Many people argue with me about having both heat tape and a RHP. I am a big believer in both redundancy and belly heat (I also run redundant thermostats).

These are my babies and I do not mess around. Yes, you can often get away with one or the other. However, my reptile room can get chilly in the winter for herps and I'd rather have more heating elements run less than one run often.

55-75% humidity should be fine for a BCI. Try to keep it around 60-65% average with higher humidity when shedding.

You can fast BCI's in the winter, some swear by it. However, I asked Jeff Ronne (The Boaphile), one of the longest standing Boa breeders in the country, that exact question. He said, they eat when they can all year round in their natural habitat and, if being fed appropriately (not too thin or too heavy), why would you fast an animal that doesn't naturally fast?

I plan on feeding Behira on a regular schedule year round. If she wants to skip meals, that's on her. My BP does it every year for 4-5 months and when she's fasting offer 1X a month instead of every two weeks like normal. Behira has refused one meal for me (she still is young) and that imeddiately following a shed. Otherwise, she eats like clockwork and I feed her small prey and already at every two week intervals.

An adult Boa will only take 3-4 meals all winter anyway if feeding every 4 weeks, and I do not believe in fasting growing snakes. Just my opinion.

I would offer as scheduled (an appropriate schedule as discussed previous) and see what happens. I don't expect you will see many refusals.

If feeding F/T, the worst case is you toss a $3-5 rat. By the way, not sure what you plan to feed, but Boa's take anything! Behira is like my corn snakes, not my BP. Is that FOOD? Yes! GIMMMEEE! BAM!

Keep asking questions as needed and I, and other users here, will keep answering. Again, I am not a Boa breeder, vet, etc. however, I do a lot of research to make sure I am properly caring for my animals. These are my opinions/conclusions I have reached through owning different species, including a BCI, and doing a lot of research, from this forum, to every book I can get my hands on, to talking to different breeders, etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dakski

I would not let it drop below 77-78F even on the cool side. Depending on what type of tank you have, there are easy ways to deal with this.

I have a 6X2' Boaphile for Behira. It has a RHP and Heat Tape on the left side/hot side. On the heat tape which is directly below the RHP (both controlled by the same thermostat), it gets 87-89F ground temp and averages about 88F. Even 4 FT away, on the ground, it's about 81F. However, being a 6FT tank, I have a smaller Heat Tape section on the cool side which serves two purposes. First, when it gets to 66-69F in the winter, it ensures that side doesn't drop below 79-80F. Secondly, I have one of Behira's water dishes over it so it evaporates more quickly and ups humidity.

I recommend a RHP with Heat Tape or a UTH for redundancy and because the RHP will also warm the air in the tank. The Heat tape/UTH pretty much only warm the spot they touch.

In a 4-5FT tank, you are probably okay with just heat on the hot side if well insulated (like a Boaphile, an AP, etc.). However, if the tank is bigger than that, 6FT+, I recommend heat tape/UTH for the cool side too. The worst case is it barely runs. The best case is it runs sometimes and ensures proper temps. Given the cost of a good tank, thermostat(s), etc. the incremental cost of heat tape is negligible.

Many people argue with me about having both heat tape and a RHP. I am a big believer in both redundancy and belly heat (I also run redundant thermostats).

These are my babies and I do not mess around. Yes, you can often get away with one or the other. However, my reptile room can get chilly in the winter for herps and I'd rather have more heating elements run less than one run often.

55-75% humidity should be fine for a BCI. Try to keep it around 60-65% average with higher humidity when shedding.

You can fast BCI's in the winter, some swear by it. However, I asked Jeff Ronne (The Boaphile), one of the longest standing Boa breeders in the country, that exact question. He said, they eat when they can all year round in their natural habitat and, if being fed appropriately (not too thin or too heavy), why would you fast an animal that doesn't naturally fast?

I plan on feeding Behira on a regular schedule year round. If she wants to skip meals, that's on her. My BP does it every year for 4-5 months and when she's fasting offer 1X a month instead of every two weeks like normal. Behira has refused one meal for me (she still is young) and that imeddiately following a shed. Otherwise, she eats like clockwork and I feed her small prey and already at every two week intervals.

An adult Boa will only take 3-4 meals all winter anyway if feeding every 4 weeks, and I do not believe in fasting growing snakes. Just my opinion.

I would offer as scheduled (an appropriate schedule as discussed previous) and see what happens. I don't expect you will see many refusals.

If feeding F/T, the worst case is you toss a $3-5 rat. By the way, not sure what you plan to feed, but Boa's take anything! Behira is like my corn snakes, not my BP. Is that FOOD? Yes! GIMMMEEE! BAM!

Keep asking questions as needed and I, and other users here, will keep answering. Again, I am not a Boa breeder, vet, etc. however, I do a lot of research to make sure I am properly caring for my animals. These are my opinions/conclusions I have reached through owning different species, including a BCI, and doing a lot of research, from this forum, to every book I can get my hands on, to talking to different breeders, etc.

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Actually going below 75F for certain boas is fine. For example BCL come from the Tumbes area of Peru which at night, it regularly will drop down to high 60s low 70s. I have kept my boas around 75 ambient in the winter with no problems. I try and not keep it like that all the time which is why i will sometimes run a oil filled radiator in the room but overall the lower temps in winter wont hurt them as long as they have a spot to get warmer, around 86-88F.

To me, running a RHP AND heat tape is pointless unless your room gets really cold in the winter. In that case, skip the heat tape and just run a RHP. Snakes dont need belly heat. It is preferable though if you talk to or read stuff by Gus Rentfro and other well known 'pioneers' of boas. Something you will notice with boas if you use heat tape is they will raise and lower their body mass to adjust the heat which allows them to stay on it for longer if wanted. With a RHP, they cant do that as the heat is from above and evenly distributed down. They either have to sit under the heat or move. But both work equally well, dont misunderstand me as saying RHPs are not good.

And 55% humidity is too low. Boas need minimum 60% and that is the lowest end. Some people will say 60% is fine which is true for short term but long term, who knows. If you look at their native area, it runs around 70-90% i believe. What i have noticed though is if i let their humidity sit around 60 for a long time, they get kind of dry feeling. If i keep it around 70-80%, their skin is silky soft, almost like silk or a very fine cloth. Another reason you want to keep the humidity higher is so the lining in their lung doesnt dry up and crack which can cause an RI. The flip side is you also dont want a constant wet cage as that can breed mold, fungus and bacteria. That is why i do a heavy misting oncve a week and then let it dry. This goes from 90% down to 60%, then i spike it again. I also use potted plants for my little snakes which also helps keep a constant 70% even with completely dry cypress.

Anyways, just watch your boa and see how he reacts to different set ups. Rosey and Caesar hate really high humidity or high temps. Same with Gina, Luna and Louie. This past few days where it was around 90F, they were all pacing and glued to the doors which they never do unless they are too hot. Once i opened the doors and threw a box fan on them, they all calmed down and curled up by the open door and the breeze.

And i too use 72x30 cages for my 2 big boas and Caesar the retic and i only use a piece of 11x24 flexwatt as their sole heat source.....and they still never really sit on it lol.

Didnt let me add also, you are much better off running a little too cool than too hot. Overheating and neurological damage can happen fast and can be deadly but a slightly cooler cage will just equate to the snake sitting on the heat source 24/7 and can easily be remedied.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

Didnt let me add also, you are much better off running a little too cool than too hot. Overheating and neurological damage can happen fast and can be deadly but a slightly cooler cage will just equate to the snake sitting on the heat source 24/7 and can easily be remedied.

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As always, Sauzo, your opinion is appreciated.

If you run redundant thermostats and run them properly, you should not have to worry about overheating.

However, I agree, cooler is better than too hot! I'd rather have my tank drop to 72F than go to 98F, every day of the week and twice on Sunday.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dakski

As always, Sauzo, your opinion is appreciated.

If you run redundant thermostats and run them properly, you should not have to worry about overheating.

However, I agree, cooler is better than too hot! I'd rather have my tank drop to 72F than go to 98F, every day of the week and twice on Sunday.

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Thanks. Yeah you could run 2 t-stats daisy chained but that could get spendy. Just get a high quality one like a Herpstat that will shut down all power in case of a runaway situation.

On a side note, i am actually floored that Louie and Luna are actually on top of their flexwatt. They did just eat last night though but it's so rare for me to catch them on it.

You can run a little warmer spot if you like, just make sure there is a nice cool spot the snake can go to. Thats personally why i really dont like RHPs. For my set ups, i could never get a nice cool side while also keeping a decent warm spot. Rosey imo was more miserable with a RHP because of it. After i switched caging to all AP cages with nothing but flexwatt, the snakes have been very happy for the most part. Rosey still gets cranky for a few days after i change substrate as the Zoo Med Forest Floor cypress comes out of the bag pretty wet and spikes the cage humidity to like 99% for a week. During that week, Caesar and Rosey are banging all over the cages lol.

Whats also funny is if you look up caresheets for dumerils boas, they all say to keep around 40-50% humidity. But Luna LOVES it around 60-70%. When i do her weekly heavy soaking of the cypress, she comes out and digs all over the place and cruises everywhere making tunnels. Once it dries out, she sulks and goes inside a hide lol. She especially loves when i give her fresh cypress.

On another note...Have any of you received a snake at work? I'm having him delivered to my office next Tuesday. I'll open the box to look him over but after that it's right back in the box until we get home that evening. The beeeder said he'll be fine so I'm cool with that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EL-Ziggy

On another note...Have any of you received a snake at work? I'm having him delivered to my office next Tuesday. I'll open the box to look him over but after that it's right back in the box until we get home that evening. The beeeder said he'll be fine so I'm cool with that.

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I personally havent but I'm sure he will be fine assuming your office's ambient temp is around 75F. Just make sure he doesnt escape at work lol. That could make for an interesting and possibly bad day.

@ Richard- Those motley babies are smokin! The apple didn't fall far from the tree with those beauties.

I'd say our office temps are closer to 72. I can't imagine that would hurt him for half a day. I'll keep him in the box inside my desk drawer. Nowhere to escape there.

I’ve had a few snakes delivered to work and people have collected snakes from work,take a heat mat and stat and a tub with you , make sure it’s well secure like
Or it can freak people out


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I can't bring a tub setup to work but I might have another solution. She doesn't know it yet but I think I'll have my GF swing by my job when she gets off at 1ish, take the critter home with her, and put him in his tub. Getting her to open up the bag and put him in the tub is gonna be the tricky part though. :)

You could always have her just leave the open bag in the tub and let the little dude crawl out himself

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Avsha531

You could always have her just leave the open bag in the tub and let the little dude crawl out himself

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She just said she'll do it. :)

as long as shipped with heat pack, it's fine to receive and leave in the box until you get home :)
I bet you are excited!

I think receiving at work is fine, but I would keep him sealed in there until home.

No reason to disturb his nice ecozone in there and potentially scare other office folk!

He will be fine.

QT tubs all set for the new additions.

http://i.imgur.com/zdmajqG.jpg

I agree, I'd just leave them in the box until you're ready to put them into their new homes. Less stress that way I think.

Very exciting!

The Eagles have landed safe, sound and BEAUTIFUL. It's nice and comfy here in the office so I'm sure they'll be fine in their boxes until I head home at 6:30. What a great day! Be blessed all!

https://i.imgur.com/IZ8leCS.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WtKCeIA.jpg