My BP burnt her nose any advice.

I need some help on my BP (Lavender) she managed to climb up on a cord nect to the heat lamp and was sitting on the cord. I turned off the heat lamp and Labender moved her head and hit the bulb on her nose and left side of her head it does not look bad but would like some advice on if there is anything I should do.
Also if we cannot use tape to secure cables what can be used instead as probes and other cords are used in the habitat. Thanks

If the bulb is inside the enclosure, you should have a cage for it like this:
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...bnr-guards.jpg

Otherwise, you can put the heat lamp on top of your enclosure/outside if you have a mesh top.

Hope your sweet noodle is okay sorry to hear about her nose , I seen some people use zip ties to secure the cables in their enclosures maybe you can to?

A cord in the enclosure? I am so confused right. Ow how this could even happen.

Burns are very painful & slow to heal. There should never be a bulb inside of a snake's cage that a snake can touch...there has to be a cage around it,
but safer still is keeping them completely out of the cage. Hard to say what to do for your snake, we aren't seeing her, hope she recovers fully without
permanent damage. Please fix her cage set-up.

As others have said, bulbs in the cage are a no-no, unless protected by a wire cage like pictured above. Cords shouldn't be loose or climbable either, they can actually act almost like a noose.
You're right, no tape... I know of many keepers who use a hot glue gun to glue the probes, etc...in place.

As for the burn, it depends how bad it is. I'm not personally experienced with burns (on snakes, I cook for a living so know all about burns on myself, hahaha)...
...but maybepost a few pics so more experienced keepers can help you out.

Good luck!

Aloe Vera plant snap a leaf and rub the goo on her. I have aloe plants in my bioactive Viv it's not dangerous for snakes and will speed up the healing process. Like everyone else is saying get a bulb cage. If you have a wooden Viv like mine I use cable clips (the little plastic clip with a small nail on). Hope ya little noodle is ok

It was a short 4" long cord on the inside top of the cage somehow she got it to sag and put herself on it.

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Snakes see anything, even a short tight cord, as a "toe-hold" to climb on. Without hands & feet, it's just what they do, lol. Lights & cords in the cage
are just accidents waiting to happen.

[IMG]https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...2724_thumb.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...2737_thumb.jpg[/IMG]

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Get that light bulb out of there and install an RHP in its place or your snake will burn itself again.

The cage doesn't get hot enough to burn? I can do that easily. Also trying to utilize the 4" hole in the back as I have no top access.

How do you get the probes and hydrometers set up without exposing cords?

The RHP cord will run where the bulb cord does now. There are fasteners you can use to secure it to the top of the enclosure so your snake can't hang from it.

The thermometer and thermostat cords that just hang are ok.

So I am trying to get it set up with out the bulb in it I cannot afford the RHP uet so I am doing a CHE on the back side of enclosure where there is a 4” vent hole I changed the vent cover to a steel vent cover and the CHE is recessed about 2” inside the dome I have the back insulated with foil tape. The vent cover still gets pretty hot which I assume so would a bulb cage will my little guys stay away? I am saving for 2 of the BHP but that will tale me a month or 2 I also moved my snakes to where it does not get below 75degrees. Really trying to figure this out. Thanks again for feed back.

[IMG][URL="https://ball-pythons.net/gallery//showimage[/IMG]

[IMG][URL="https://ball-pythons.net/gallery//showimage[/IMG]

So here is the pi if the inside vent and the back CHE on a dome.

Can't see the pics

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[IMG]https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...66d_thumb.jpeg[/IMG]



Did they come through?

Those did. I wouldn't call it ideal but it's a lot better.

Can I use a tile or delrin or glass with a UTH or heat strips underneath it on the inside of the habitat like a false floor so I can heat that way?

UTH should not be IN the enclosure either: moisture getting under the tile (or whatever) will short it out. Not safe. It's called "under tank heat"
for good reason.

I understand that it fabricated for under a tank, as I have read several posts on this site attaching their UTH to tubs and tanks with foil tapes and such which would also go against manufacturer intentions and uses as well as the tank resting on solid surfaces with minimal to no air gap as well in most applications so if I seal the pad so moisture cannot effect the integrity of the pad and debris cannot effect it either and I use something that does not off gas is fire resistant transfers heat well and has high chemical and acid resistance I cannot see using the UTH in the tank slightly modified to work as safe as possible being a less better option than having a CHE on the back heating up the intake vent to 190 degrees + which will burn my snakes. I have seen setups with this done and done correctly can be a very durable and safe solution in my point of view I am an HVAC tech and deal with heating and air conditioning all the time. But I am open to be proven incorrect if you have any backup of this setup going wrong that wasn’t due to human error I would like to read it. Thanks again for all input.

This is a forum, so it's best we don't make assumptions about your KSA's, only to have a tragic outcome, ok?

If you can safely seal the wires & UTH itself from moisture & address all the other recommended issues, then give it a go?
Creativity comes in quite handy when keeping snakes. (& yes, I've seen other issues in posts too, like metal/foil w/ UTH)

I just want to be sure, in the first few pictures it looks like you're using tape? sorry if I'm wrong but if you are you need to take it out now as it can peel off and get stuck to your snake and cause serious injury or death.
As for do cages get hot, I use a large (not medium/regular) guard from ProRep and it hardly gets hot at all.

Yes originally I had tape, I removed it sealed the UTH and cables hooked it up to a thermal cutout so if there are any shorts or over heating it shuts all power to the pad I believe this will be the best solution until I get a RHP. I have been monitoring it and temps have been the most stable I have seen cold side at 78 average and hot side at 88 average humidity at 54% average seems like my BPs are happy.

Dumb question KSA?

So I am posting some completed habitat pics after getting all the heat issues resolved and safety issues taken care of any more suggestions are welcomed.
[IMG]https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...5820_thumb.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...0051_thumb.jpg[/IMG]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Capt.Squishy

Dumb question KSA?

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Military / government acronym for knowledge, skills, and abilities.

In the future if you want a heat mat designed for in-enclosure use there is a company called Big Apple Herp that sells Intellitemp pads for just that purpose. There's also a company called Kane that makes larger heat mats for kenneled dogs and livestock in cold barns but they'd be overkill for a ball python, though I know a few folks who have them for their giant pythons.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bcr229

Military / government acronym for knowledge, skills, and abilities.

In the future if you want a heat mat designed for in-enclosure use there is a company called Big Apple Herp that sells Intellitemp pads for just that purpose. There's also a company called Kane that makes larger heat mats for kenneled dogs and livestock in cold barns but they'd be overkill for a ball python, though I know a few folks who have them for their giant pythons.

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KSA- yes, bcr229 beat me to answering. And I 'second' the info on heat mats designed to handle moisture that are made for other animals. I used to have
one (made for whelping quarters etc) that was about 16" x 24" long...that was a "small" one. Can't recall the company that made that one...I've also seen
those for livestock referred to as "pig blankets", most are quite large. You could also check with feed stores, they carry such things or could order them.

Following up on the burn itself...
It didn't look like too terrible a burn but they are deceiving!

Is it still just the way it looked in the first pictures? Has your snake eaten since the burn?
If your snake burned her tongue as well, that can cause some eating issues.

Has she shed since the burn? Usually it happens with body burns but the nose burn may be small enough that it didn't happen....but most times after a burn ball pythons go into a shed phase almost immediately. The skin right now may be protecting the actual extent of the injury. It may be small enough that the burn will heal and shed out normally when the time comes.
In the meantime, still keep a close eye on the area for any fluid seeping or swelling. If it starts to look like a blister, you will need to take her to a vet and have them debride the skin from the wound underneath to start an antibiotic treatment.

I just remembered the brand of insulated kennel pad I've used in the distant past, & they're still around with an even smaller size, FYI. They're from K & H
Pet Products and are known as Lectro-Kennel Outdoor heated pad. A small one (12.5 x 18.5") is currently on "sale" for $40.57 on Amazon, reg. price $70.99.
In case anyone is interested in a heat pad that CAN be safely used inside a cage? Just another option.