Simple snake noob questions

Hello snake friends! I’m a one week old snake mom and I just have a few small questions and a concern.

1. I see a lot of people say feed the snake in their enclosure. I’ve come to realize I have aspen bedding. (When the previous owner showed me the bedding he uses, all I saw was “snake bedding”) then later on here I saw that’s not the best bedding, I also saw a snake get sick from consuming it. My snake defidently swallowed some while he was eating the rat I fed him yesterday. Will he be okay? I had a nightmare he got sick ^^;
I also have paper bedding in as well (I added more in case he wanted to burrow) cause when I was at Walmart before I got him I wanted to pick up bedding, and I googled what to use and paper came up as one of the better things to use.

2. Do I need to find a specific vet for him if he needs to see a vet or do most vets treat snakes?

3. He eats medium size live rats, but my friend went to the pet store under the influence and bought a mouse thinking we could feed Mr. Noodles with it. Is there a chance of him taking interest in it? Is it worth feeding him since I won’t be able to handle him? And after and I fed him yesterday? How long should I wait if it’s okay to feed?

4. This one probably sounds stupid but I gotta know. I always hear that snakes can smell fear. Can they smell other feelings? At least the basic ones they can comprehend?

ALSO IM STILL LEARNING ABBREVIATIONS ON HERE.

hello snake friend!!! welcome to the forum! i'm busy atm and can't answer all your questions but i will assure you snakes can't "smell" fear. they CAN see hesitation and see you being weary and use that to strike defensively. confidence is key. [emoji4]

Yes, feed in his enclosure. I dry the rat with a hair dryer and I don't have to worry about aspen sticking to fur and snake swallowing aspen with rat.

You will have to find a vet that will treat a snake and that has experience.

If you feed him a mouse, he might not go back to rats. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I don't know if they smell fear, but they do sense if you're tense/nervous by the way you move your hands. I mean like hesitation and that makes them nervous as to your intentions. "Is she trying to hurt/eat me?".

1. Aspen is okay to use if your humidity is correct without any substrate. Aspen can mold if too wet but you're enclosure should never be wet, only humid. You can use paper bedding if you'd like as well. Of course, always feed in the enclosure. You're snake should be just fine if it was plain aspen.

2. Yes, an exotic vet is much preferred. You never know when something might hit the fan or when an injury can occur. Most regular vets do not know much about snakes.

3. I wouldn't give the mouse to your Ball Python in case he decides he prefers mice over rats. Ball Pythons are notorious for being picky.

4. Snakes have basic emotions. They just don't have the cerebral capacity for emotions like joy, anger, and affection,they are an instinctual animal. I don't now if they "smell" others' emotions, I'd think it would have to do with touch and what the snake is perceiving you as. Handle a snake with confidence and respect.

Thanks so much guys!
And don’t worry, I love my snake SO much and I think he’s super sweet, lifts his sides for me to pick him up when he’s in his enclosure, and I always handle him with confidence! I really want him to trust me.
Boyfriend is a little weary handeling him sometimes, but that makes sense as to why he seems to want to crawl over to me when he’s handling him (:

Welcome! Definitely feed in the enclosure. The biggest issue feeding outside is deciding when to put your snake back in. Mine like to grab a drink of water sometimes and curl up over the belly heat or in a hide. I would not want to handle them after feeding and you risk stressing them which could potentially lead to regurgitation which is not good.

i’ve used Aspen bedding for 2 years and never had a problem. Yes, your noodle will eat a mouse if hungry but as mentioned above, if your snake is already onto rats try to leave it at that.

Enjoy your new family member!

Welcome to the forum.

Based on your questions I'm guessing you didn't do much (if any) research BEFORE bringing the animal home. Since you were googling what substrate to use while in the store you clearly have a LOT to learn.

Start here:
pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?127203-Ball-Python-(Python-regius)-Caresheet

...and here:
pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?31102-Ball-Python-FAQs

Now on to your questions:

1) YES, feed in the enclosure. Eating a little substrate won't hurt the animal.
You've "Come to realize" you have aspen bedding...and you're concerned your snake will get sick because another snake got sick from the substrate??? You sure the other snake wasn't on pine or cedar? Both can make snakes sick...

2) YES you need a vet that sees exotics, and hopefully is well educated on snakes specifically. Most vets are not very well educated on snakes and only know the tiny bit they had to learn to pass their required courses.

3) Yes, the snake will probably eat the mouse. Yes, you can feed it to the snake, but you run the risk of the snake refusing rats moving forward.

4) snakes can not "smell fear" but they are very receptive of fear. They pick up on advanced heart rates, shaky hands, twitchy movements, etc...and will often become nervous themselves because of it.

Follow up from your comment above: your snake is NOT lifting it's sides for you to pick him up. Quite the opposite.
It's moving it's body away to tell you it doesn't like being touched or is a bit nervous. They don't want to be picked up. They TOLERATE handling but would MUCH rather be left alone.
Since you've only had the snake a week, you shouldn't be handling it yet anyhow. Let the snake acclimate to its new surroundings, new smells, environment, etc...
I strongly advise, new keepers especially, to let their snake settle in and start eating regularly before handling. The snake getting acclimated and eating is most important, you'll have 20 years or more to handle the snake, let it be til it's got three consecutive meals without refusal in him.

Do yourself AND your snake a favor and start doing some research on the living, breathing animal you brought home.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by craigafrechette

Welcome to the forum.

Based on your questions I'm guessing you didn't do much (if any) research BEFORE bringing the animal home. Since you were googling what substrate to use while in the store you clearly have a LOT to learn.

Start here:
pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?127203-Ball-Python-(Python-regius)-Caresheet

...and here:
pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?31102-Ball-Python-FAQs

Now on to your questions:

1) YES, feed in the enclosure. Eating a little substrate won't hurt the animal.
You've "Come to realize" you have aspen bedding...and you're concerned your snake will get sick because another snake got sick from the substrate??? You sure the other snake wasn't on pine or cedar? Both can make snakes sick...

2) YES you need a vet that sees exotics, and hopefully is well educated on snakes specifically. Most vets are not very well educated on snakes and only know the tiny bit they had to learn to pass their required courses.

3) Yes, the snake will probably eat the mouse. Yes, you can feed it to the snake, but you run the risk of the snake refusing rats moving forward.

4) snakes can not "smell fear" but they are very receptive of fear. They pick up on advanced heart rates, shaky hands, twitchy movements, etc...and will often become nervous themselves because of it.

Follow up from your comment above: your snake is NOT lifting it's sides for you to pick him up. Quite the opposite.
It's moving it's body away to tell you it doesn't like being touched or is a bit nervous. They don't want to be picked up. They TOLERATE handling but would MUCH rather be left alone.
Since you've only had the snake a week, you shouldn't be handling it yet anyhow. Let the snake acclimate to its new surroundings, new smells, environment, etc...
I strongly advise, new keepers especially, to let their snake settle in and start eating regularly before handling. The snake getting acclimated and eating is most important, you'll have 20 years or more to handle the snake, let it be til it's got three consecutive meals without refusal in him.

Do yourself AND your snake a favor and start doing some research on the living, breathing animal you brought home.

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Ah there it is. The “this noob is asking questions they clearly didn’t do any research”.

just to clarify

if I didn’t do any research before getting my snake I would have had more than 4 rather simple questions to ask. I simply couldn’t find THOSE questions that I’d been asking myself.
I was getting bedding BEFORE I got my snake, so I guess I did my research before getting the snake. 🙃🙃 (wouldn’t make much sense to get it afterward now would it?)
And yeah actually it WAS aspen bedding, I even saw the post on this forum, that’s why I asked about it. 🙃 id even post a link if I had more than a phone to work with.
And I think if my snake was that against being picked up he wouldn’t relax on me the second I sit on the couch. He’s already 2 years old and the previous owner told me he was fine to handle since he wasn’t a baby. I took his word for it. My bad if I was misinformed at the time.

I’ve done my research (I’ve already even read both those posts you linked (;<) and I can even read properly. Stop accusing beginners of not doing research. I’ve spent hours looking through this forum, and unfortunately, see people jump to conclusions because god forbid someone misses reading something and needs to ask about it. Like do you KNOW how rude it is. Have some faith. Don’t brush my hours or research to the side. Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Queenofredlions

Ah there it is. The “this noob is asking questions they clearly didn’t do any research”.

just to clarify

if I didn’t do any research before getting my snake I would have had more than 4 rather simple questions to ask. I simply couldn’t find THOSE questions that I’d been asking myself.
I was getting bedding BEFORE I got my snake, so I guess I did my research before getting the snake. 🙃🙃 (wouldn’t make much sense to get it afterward now would it?)
And yeah actually it WAS aspen bedding, I even saw the post on this forum, that’s why I asked about it. 🙃 id even post a link if I had more than a phone to work with.
And I think if my snake was that against being picked up he wouldn’t relax on me the second I sit on the couch. He’s already 2 years oldq and the previous owner told me he was fine to handle since he wasn’t a baby. I took his word for it. My bad if I was misinformed at the time.

I’ve done my research (I’ve already even read both those posts you linked (;<) and I can even read properly. Stop accusing beginners of not doing research. I’ve spent hours looking through this forum, and unfortunately, see people jump to conclusions because god forbid someone misses reading something and needs to ask about it. Like do you KNOW how rude it is. Have some faith. Don’t brush my hours or research to the side. Thanks.

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Regardless if you feel you have done the necessary research or not, Craig is providing you solid advice. I would highly recommend listening to not handling your new ball python until he’s eaten 3 meals with you, despite how you THINK you are reading his behavior. Be careful not to anthropomorphisize him. It’s an easy thing to do. Why not play things safe and be patient? You’ll have plenty of time to hang with your new buddy later. No need to rush :)

Since your questions have already been answered by others do you mind telling us a little more about your setup? Posting a picture would be useful as well!

I recommend switching to a cocohusk substrate since it will hold humidity in really well plus is more visually appealing IMO.

As mentioned it's best to wait until your bp has had a few successful meals before handling them. Waiting is hard but will be worth it to have a snake that is eating regularly. After that you will have 20+ years to handle him!

We have all been the noob. I did six months of research and had an enclosure set up before getting boople. While some people come off brash I guarantee they have only the best intentions for you and your snake baby. Sit back, hang on and enjoy the ride lol. In the end everyone here (including you now) are here to help everyone else who is new. I promise you we all care, even if we sound snotty sometimes :P. I'm the snot who calls out people with stick on gauges...lol I'm nasty about it lol.hate those things!

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Originally Posted by MissterDog

Regardless if you feel you have done the necessary research or not, Craig is providing you solid advice. I would highly recommend listening to not handling your new ball python until he’s eaten 3 meals with you, despite how you THINK you are reading his behavior. Be careful not to anthropomorphisize him. It’s an easy thing to do. Why not play things safe and be patient? You’ll have plenty of time to hang with your new buddy later. No need to rush :)

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no doubt it’s solid advise, I just don’t appreciate being accused of not doing my research like I see happen to every beginner.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Queenofredlions

Ah there it is. The “this noob is asking questions they clearly didn’t do any research”.

just to clarify

if I didn’t do any research before getting my snake I would have had more than 4 rather simple questions to ask. I simply couldn’t find THOSE questions that I’d been asking myself.
I was getting bedding BEFORE I got my snake, so I guess I did my research before getting the snake. 🙃🙃 (wouldn’t make much sense to get it afterward now would it?)
And yeah actually it WAS aspen bedding, I even saw the post on this forum, that’s why I asked about it. 🙃 id even post a link if I had more than a phone to work with.
And I think if my snake was that against being picked up he wouldn’t relax on me the second I sit on the couch. He’s already 2 years old and the previous owner told me he was fine to handle since he wasn’t a baby. I took his word for it. My bad if I was misinformed at the time.

I’ve done my research (I’ve already even read both those posts you linked (;<) and I can even read properly. Stop accusing beginners of not doing research. I’ve spent hours looking through this forum, and unfortunately, see people jump to conclusions because god forbid someone misses reading something and needs to ask about it. Like do you KNOW how rude it is. Have some faith. Don’t brush my hours or research to the side. Thanks.

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HOURS of research...nuff said.
Not weeks, not months, hours...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by craigafrechette

HOURS of research...nuff said.
Not weeks, not months, hours...

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At least 3 hours a day for a week. When I wasn’t at work or sleeping, I was on the internet. Sorry for not making myself clear. If I didn’t research long enough please tell me what I’m missing.

I know temps, how an enclosure should be set up and what it requires, feeding (ALREADY knew the snake was to be fed in his enclosure, just had a concern about the substrate because god forbid I worry about my snake getting sick from what I’ve seen on these forums, and the question about the mouse that my friend decided to just go ahead and buy for him) signs of an RI, how to check for an RI, anatomy, housing a second snake (not planning on), shedding and how to bathe him if he’s having problems shedding, what too hot and too cold looks like to a snake, the difference in striking and relaxed necks, how/when not to handle, why not to take your snake outside (however according to the owner he took them on motorcycle rides so I’m not sure what that brings my snake to), signs of stress, and throwing up its prey can kill it

theres more but I don’t think I need to give you every detail. I hope you get it.

My reasoning for having a “quick” research is because my coworker and I were talking about our pets. He mentioned he had 2 snakes. I said “I want a snake some day but havent budgeted for the set up”
he told me he’d give me his snake and everything with it for $100 because he’s parting with them since he’s not home with them often. My other coworker took his other snake.
He had me pick it up a week later, I did my research during and after(so I’m still currently looking at information that will help me in the future) that time period, after I had already had a general idea of what snake/reptile care included. I looked into it months ago but wasn’t persistent about it because I didn’t see myself getting one any time soon.

I researched strictly ball pythons, read tons and tons of forums on here, watched YouTube videos, googled terms im unfamiliar with. I do not plan on breeding.

If you have any secrets as to what takes months to research, please do share because clearly there’s a lot I’m unaware of.

I have a thermometer (I’m at work and can’t tell you the current temp because I’m at work)and have my enclosure with 2 hides, a water bowl, heating pads, aspen and paper bedding, I have one wall of enclosure covered because there’s nothing but floor and wall, the red heat light that I do not keep on constantly, a piece of wood for when he’s shedding, and 1 leafy thing which I’ll be getting more of. What am I missing. Because even if I had researched far before hand, I’d be comfortable and confident with a snake with my knowledge now and honestly wouldn’t expect that I needed months and months of research.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Queenofredlions

At least 3 hours a day for a week. When I wasn’t at work or sleeping, I was on the internet. Sorry for not making myself clear. If I didn’t research long enough please tell me what I’m missing.

I know temps, how an enclosure should be set up and what it requires, feeding (ALREADY knew the snake was to be fed in his enclosure, just had a concern about the substrate because god forbid I worry about my snake getting sick from what I’ve seen on these forums, and the question about the mouse that my friend decided to just go ahead and buy for him) signs of an RI, how to check for an RI, anatomy, housing a second snake (not planning on), shedding and how to bathe him if he’s having problems shedding, what too hot and too cold looks like to a snake, the difference in striking and relaxed necks, how/when not to handle, why not to take your snake outside (however according to the owner he took them on motorcycle rides so I’m not sure what that brings my snake to), signs of stress, and throwing up its prey can kill it

theres more but I don’t think I need to give you every detail. I hope you get it.

My reasoning for having a “quick” research is because my coworker and I were talking about our pets. He mentioned he had 2 snakes. I said “I want a snake some day but havent budgeted for the set up”
he told me he’d give me his snake and everything with it for $100 because he’s parting with them since he’s not home with them often. My other coworker took his other snake.
He had me pick it up a week later, I did my research during and after(so I’m still currently looking at information that will help me in the future) that time period, after I had already had a general idea of what snake/reptile care included. I looked into it months ago but wasn’t persistent about it because I didn’t see myself getting one any time soon.

I researched strictly ball pythons, read tons and tons of forums on here, watched YouTube videos, googled terms im unfamiliar with. I do not plan on breeding.

If you have any secrets as to what takes months to research, please do share because clearly there’s a lot I’m unaware of.

I have a thermometer (I’m at work and can’t tell you the current temp because I’m at work)and have my enclosure with 2 hides, a water bowl, heating pads, aspen and paper bedding, I have one wall of enclosure covered because there’s nothing but floor and wall, the red heat light that I do not keep on constantly, a piece of wood for when he’s shedding, and 1 leafy thing which I’ll be getting more of. What am I missing. Because even if I had researched far before hand, I’d be comfortable and confident with a snake with my knowledge now and honestly wouldn’t expect that I needed months and months of research.

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Strange, I see no mention of a thermostat. For someone who has done so many 'hours' of dedicated research I'm surprised you overlooked the most critical piece of equipment.

Welcome! It's awesome that you've done so much research and are continuing to educate yourself. :) I am also new to snakes and have found this forum invaluable. I joined a BP group on FB and immediately unjoined because of how narrow the range of opinions were and generally how elitist everyone came across. I've been given some great advice by Craig and others during my short time here and am happy to keep learning from experienced keepers. :)

From what you've posted, my only questions are whether you have a thermostat(s) for your heating pad(s) and what style hides/are they identical. And sorry if you already addressed those somewhere.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MissterDog

Strange, I see no mention of a thermostat. For someone who has done so many 'hours' of dedicated research I'm surprised you overlooked the most critical piece of equipment.

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seriously? The thing you aim at the enclosure and it tells me the temp? That’s the wrong thing? Cause I got that information from a forum on here.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Queenofredlions

seriously? The thing you aim at the enclosure and it tells me the temp? That’s the wrong thing? Cause I got that information from a forum on here.

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A thermoSTAT controls the heat pads. Without a thermostat your UTH can easily overheat and burn your snake! Unplug the UTH until its connected to a thermostat. Thermostats aren't optional. Here's an affordable one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000N...mostat+reptile

ALL heat sources must be regulated!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Queenofredlions

seriously? The thing you aim at the enclosure and it tells me the temp? That’s the wrong thing? Cause I got that information from a forum on here.

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I think you're confusing a thermoSTAT and a thermoMETER (or a temp gun?) Thermometers and temp guns (I assume you are referring to this when you mean aiming?) simply measure your temperatures, they do not regulate it. ThermoSTAT's control your heat sources which prevent spikes in temperatures and overheating, making sure your snake doesn't get burned.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Queenofredlions

seriously? The thing you aim at the enclosure and it tells me the temp? That’s the wrong thing? Cause I got that information from a forum on here.

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Nope. Very common newbie mistake... A thermostat is what regulates the heat source, so that your snake doesn't get burned or cooked alive, depending on what heat source you got.
Something like this if you're currently on a budget:
https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Contro...mostat+reptile

Or a herpstat, which is the best kind and will last you years or for most of the lifetime of the snake:
https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...products_id=24

A temp gun is "aim at a spot and tells the temp".

A digital thermometer is what you place in the enclosure to get the ambient temp.

You need all of these things, but the thermostat is the #1 most important for the immediate safety of the animal.

Also, it really only takes following a good caresheet to get all the basics right. Just stick to this one and follow it to a T and make things easier: https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...s%29-Caresheet

Quote:

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Originally Posted by redshepherd

Nope. Very common newbie mistake... A thermostat is what regulates the heat source, so that your snake doesn't get burned or cooked alive, depending on what heat source you got.
Something like this if you're currently on a budget:
https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-Contro...mostat+reptile

Or a herpstat, which is the best kind and will last you years or for most of the lifetime of the snake:
https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...products_id=24

A temp gun is "aim at a spot and tells the temp".

A digital thermometer is what you place in the enclosure to get the ambient temp.

You need all of these things, but the thermostat is the #1 most important for the immediate safety of the animal.

Also, it really only takes following a good caresheet to get all the basics right. Just stick to this one and follow it to a T and make things easier: https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...s%29-Caresheet

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Seconding Herpstats 100%


Jumpstarts are a great starter thermostat but keep in mind they will not be as accurate as a proportional thermostat like Herpstats. Jumpstart is an on/off style of thermostat meaning it can only go from 0% to 100% full power, instead of gradually like portional ones. It's also worth mentioning they have a shorter lifespan, unfortunately they are prone to needing to be replaced within a year or so.


However if you are in a tight budget the Jumpstart is a good placeholder until you can upgrade to a Herpstat. I PROMISE the lifespan and reliability of a Herpstat is sooooo worth the upfront cost! Plus they look snazzy!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Queenofredlions

Hello snake friends! I’m a one week old snake mom and I just have a few small questions and a concern.

1. I see a lot of people say feed the snake in their enclosure. I’ve come to realize I have aspen bedding. (When the previous owner showed me the bedding he uses, all I saw was “snake bedding”) then later on here I saw that’s not the best bedding, I also saw a snake get sick from consuming it. My snake defidently swallowed some while he was eating the rat I fed him yesterday. Will he be okay? I had a nightmare he got sick ^^;
I also have paper bedding in as well (I added more in case he wanted to burrow) cause when I was at Walmart before I got him I wanted to pick up bedding, and I googled what to use and paper came up as one of the better things to use.

2. Do I need to find a specific vet for him if he needs to see a vet or do most vets treat snakes?

3. He eats medium size live rats, but my friend went to the pet store under the influence and bought a mouse thinking we could feed Mr. Noodles with it. Is there a chance of him taking interest in it? Is it worth feeding him since I won’t be able to handle him? And after and I fed him yesterday? How long should I wait if it’s okay to feed?

4. This one probably sounds stupid but I gotta know. I always hear that snakes can smell fear. Can they smell other feelings? At least the basic ones they can comprehend?

ALSO IM STILL LEARNING ABBREVIATIONS ON HERE.

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Also, to answer some of your initial questions: Substrate choice, like a lot of things, depends on the keeper and their preferences/environmental parameters. Common options include newspaper/paper towel, aspen, cypress mulch (like Forest Floor), ReptiBark, coconut fiber/husk (I'm not as familiar with this, but I believe things like EcoEarth and Reptile Prime?) Aspen should be fine if you live in a pretty humid environment, as aspen tends to be drying and BPs require humidity. Aspen also molds quickly so can't be sprayed as easily as other substrates.

General consensus on feeding is appropriately sized prey 1x per week, although this may decrease to biweekly as the snake reaches full size.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WhompingWillow

coconut fiber/husk (I'm not as familiar with this, but I believe things like EcoEarth and Reptile Prime?)

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Coco husk is like coco chips, big pieces, which I prefer now! Coco fiber is Eco Earth and is very fine and dusty and sticks on everything, like planting soil.

Uuuugh sorry guys I’ve always struggled with those terms but yeah a temp gun sounds right.

I use it to monitor the temperature and turn on/off the heat lamp when it gets too hot. When I saw those could be used I was just like “OK YEAH I GOT THAT”

redshepard, in that forum, it mentions a thermometer you don’t use and a thermometer you do use?
from what I understand it needs to be one with a probe. So would I need one for each heat source plus the tank itself?

thermostats if I’m understanding correctly measure the temp using a thermometer, so do they cool/heat as well? I think I’m having trouble understanding how it works. I don’t think google explains it in depth enough.

Or can someone link me an in-depth forum JUST for thermo things?

Also sorry I suck at replying to people this is getting hard to follow on a phone and it’s all I have for the next few weeks. I swear I’m seeing posts on pages that weren’t there.

Thermostat works just like the one controlling the heat and AC in your house. You set it to the desired temp, the heat source activates (turns on the heat) until the desired temp is reached and then turns off. That is the “on/off” type thermostat such as jumpstart brand. Proportional thermostats such as herpstat will gradually increase the amount of power supplied to the heat source and then reduce or cut off power to the heating element once the set temperature is reached. Just like when you have the heat on in your house in the winter. Without a thermostat the heat would just crank until it’s 200* in your house. The thermostat is a regulatory device to prevent that from happening. No different in the case of heating a reptile enclosure
Also, Tapatalk is a nice app for accessing the forum on your phone. Much easier than using a browser and also makes uploading pictures a breeze

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Queenofredlions

Uuuugh sorry guys I’ve always struggled with those terms but yeah a temp gun sounds right.

I use it to monitor the temperature and turn on/off the heat lamp when it gets too hot. When I saw those could be used I was just like “OK YEAH I GOT THAT”

redshepard, in that forum, it mentions a thermometer you don’t use and a thermometer you do use?
from what I understand it needs to be one with a probe. So would I need one for each heat source plus the tank itself?

thermostats if I’m understanding correctly measure the temp using a thermometer, so do they cool/heat as well? I think I’m having trouble understanding how it works. I don’t think google explains it in depth enough.

Or can someone link me an in-depth forum JUST for thermo things?

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A thermostat and thermometer are two completely different things- a thermostat is actually what you plug your heat source into (not sure if you use a UTH or heat lamp), so that your heat source isn't plugged into the wall. If you get the $30 thermostats, it does automatically what you're currently doing manually: turns the heat source off when it hits the desired temperature, and turns it back on when the temperature gets too low. So it prevents the heat source from becoming extremely hot, which they do very quickly when they aren't plugged into a thermostat. You can set the thermostat to a desired temperature.

All thermostats come with a probe attached, that's their function- you dont need to buy a probe

the probe is placed between the bottom of your tank and the UTH. If you have a heat lamp/above heating, the probe should be hanging in the air under your lamp.

the probe tells the thermostat what the temperature is, which is how it determines when to turn it off or on

Basically the thermostat CONTROLS your heat source's power.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WhompingWillow

Welcome! It's awesome that you've done so much research and are continuing to educate yourself. :) I am also new to snakes and have found this forum invaluable. I joined a BP group on FB and immediately unjoined because of how narrow the range of opinions were and generally how elitist everyone came across. I've been given some great advice by Craig and others during my short time here and am happy to keep learning from experienced keepers. :)

From what you've posted, my only questions are whether you have a thermostat(s) for your heating pad(s) and what style hides/are they identical. And sorry if you already addressed those somewhere.

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Responding to the hides, ones a rock looking thing with a hole in it and my other ones just a log hide. I’ll be replacing it next week after payday though as I’ve read those aren’t sufficient. (:

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Originally Posted by Queenofredlions

Responding to the hides, ones a rock looking thing with a hole in it and my other ones just a log hide. I’ll be replacing it next week after payday though as I’ve read those aren’t sufficient. (:

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Get two indentical hides. Then they won't choose one over the other for security. They can thermoregulate themselves without choosing one over the other.

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Originally Posted by redshepherd

A thermostat and thermometer are two completely different things- a thermostat is actually what you plug your heat source into (not sure if you use a UTH or heat lamp), so that your heat source isn't plugged into the wall. If you get the $30 thermostats, it does automatically what you're currently doing manually: turns the heat source off when it hits the desired temperature, and turns it back on when the temperature gets too low. So it prevents the heat source from becoming extremely hot, which they do very quickly when they aren't plugged into a thermostat. You can set the thermostat to a desired temperature.

All thermostats come with a probe attached, that's their function- you dont need to buy a probe

the probe is placed between the bottom of your tank and the UTH. If you have a heat lamp/above heating, the probe should be hanging in the air under your lamp.

the probe tells the thermostat what the temperature is, which is how it determines when to turn it off or on

Basically the thermostat CONTROLS your heat source's power.

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!!!!!THANKS SO MUCH DUDE I couldn’t connect the dots. -_- I can pick one up at my local fish/reptile store I bet so I’ll grab one ASAP!

Oh but wait my lamp has a dial on it so I can dim it and what not. Plugging it into a thermostat, I’d leave it turned up all the way and let the thermostat do it’s job, correct? It’s a UV light btw.

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Originally Posted by Queenofredlions

Oh but wait my lamp has a dial on it so I can dim it and what not. Plugging it into a thermostat, I’d leave it turned up all the way and let the thermostat do it’s job, correct? It’s a UV light btw.

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It depends on how hot your lamp gets when turned all the way up. Tinker around with it and determine what's safest for your snake. If you got the cheap $30 thermostat that simply turns the power on or off, you still don't want the lamp to shoot up to dangerous temps when it turns on.

I use just a dimmer for my light. The accurite digital thermometer/hygrometer measures the temp for it and I adjust the dial. Ambient temp should be 80. Ambient is overall temp throughout the cage.

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Originally Posted by Sunnieskys

I use just a dimmer for my light. The accurite digital thermometer/hygrometer measures the temp for it and I adjust the dial. Ambient temp should be 80. Ambient is overall temp throughout the cage.

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The OP sounds like her ONLY heat source right now is the light, it's not just for ambient temp. A thermostat is always better than a dimmer for heat sources.
OP you want a hot spot of 90-92 and no higher.

OP, you really want to get a separate heat source other than a lamp, like a UTH that provides heat 24/7. The snake needs a day and night cycle. They're also nocturnal animals and constant light will definitely stress them out.

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Originally Posted by redshepherd

The OP sounds like her ONLY heat source is the light, it's not just for ambient temp. A thermostat is always better than a dimmer for heat sources.
OP you want a hot spot of 90-92 and no higher.

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I understand. I'm saying a thermostat for an uth and I use a dimmer for my che. I use mine for ambient temp not a hit spot. My uth is my hot spot regulated by a jumpstart. All are necessary.

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Originally Posted by Sunnieskys

I understand. I'm saying a thermostat for an uth and I use a dimmer for my che. I use mine for ambient temp not a hit spot. My uth is my hot spot regulated by a jumpstart. All are necessary.

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Personally I feel thermostats for CHE's should be favored over a dimmer, since dimmers don't have the same amount as control as thermostats. Everyone's set up will vary on what works for them and how well maintained their home and snake environment is, but as a general rule I think it's better to recommend the more precise way of regulating temperatures that are less prone to unexpected hiccups. A dimmer however, I think is a good temporary solution for CHE's if the person cannot get a hold of a thermostat right away. Although a dimmer + a thermostat can be a good combo too depending on the set up and CHE wattage.

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Originally Posted by redshepherd

The OP sounds like her ONLY heat source right now is the light, it's not just for ambient temp. A thermostat is always better than a dimmer for heat sources.
OP you want a hot spot of 90-92 and no higher.

OP, you really want to get a separate heat source other than a lamp, like a UTH that provides heat 24/7. The snake needs a day and night cycle. They're also nocturnal animals and constant light will definitely stress them out.

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I have two heat pads! And the light isn’t on constantly. And if it is on it’s not at its max lighting. I got into habit of checking the temp when I walk by it which is frequently cause he’s in a room next to my kitchen. 🙃 If it’s not the right light I grabbed it because the coworker picking up the other snake who’s had snakes before said she only uses “the red ones”?

sorry I don’t want to risk using the wrong terms and keep confusing everyone.

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Originally Posted by Queenofredlions

I have two heat pads! And the light isn’t on constantly. And if it is on it’s not at its max lighting. I got into habit of checking the temp when I walk by it which is frequently cause he’s in a room next to my kitchen. 🙃 If it’s not the right light I grabbed it because the coworker picking up the other snake who’s had snakes before said she only uses “the red ones”?

sorry I don’t want to risk using the wrong terms and keep confusing everyone.

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oh good! It sounded like your only heat source is the light. If you have two heat pads, you'll need two thermostats for them, or you can buy a Herpstat 2 which has two controllers.

You'll want to turn off the heat pads until your thermostats arrive.

I just mentioned the lamp because of it’s dial. The heat pads don’t have dials. And before anyone asks yes they’re all on one side of the enclosure for the gradient effect.

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Originally Posted by Queenofredlions

seriously? The thing you aim at the enclosure and it tells me the temp? That’s the wrong thing? Cause I got that information from a forum on here.

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...ok, are you ready to admit you haven't done ample research yet???

And seriously, the moron you got the snake from took them on motorcycle rides??? This is the same guy you trust when it comes to if/when you handle the snake or let it acclimate???

I cant help but think back to when I had my first snake ever. There was no internet then, there were no cell phones then, I am guessing that there were thermostats for reptile care then but they were probably so rare and expensive that only zoo's had them. My Burmese python lived in a 6 foot long cage that was a modified dresser like you would store clothes in. She had a heat rock that stayed plugged straight into the wall. In order to get new reptiles then, you had to order from a known breeder by phone call then drive to the nearest international airport to pick up your package or drive to the breeder's location. My oh my how easy we have it now.

Yes, by today's standards, I was a horrible keeper then but that is how everyone did it back then.

It is wonderful that we have all of this today and that we have the internet to learn from everyone elses experiences. All of the electronics to impliment these proven better ways of providing care. There are thousands of people that have invested millions of hours of trial and error to make the hobby better for all of us by sharing what they have learned online. I do believe that reptiles are MUCH better cared for now days than back then because the tools do exist now, they are affordable, and there are good places like this to learn that you do want to incorporate these tools into your keeping and how to use them.

Ok craig, you know I'm a fan of yours. Please step back a little. We have all been a noob. She is taking in all the info and changing. She isn't Dutti.

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Originally Posted by craigafrechette

...ok, are you ready to admit you haven't done ample research yet???

And seriously, the moron you got the snake from took them on motorcycle rides??? This is the same guy you trust when it comes to if/when you handle the snake or let it acclimate???

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Uh, no, I did research, just never understood temperature devices. Like I said. I saw someone on here say they use a temp gun and went for that because I had one and understood it.
And yeah naturally I suspect the guy who had snakes knows snakes better than I do.

Not that temperatrue had anything to do with my first post.

My preference, there are mixed feeling on it, but I would replace the lamp with a CHE, it gives off the heat you want but doesnt give off any light. Not a huge thing but I found out it helps them get comfortable. Like I said, just a preference of mine because they do prefer the dark.

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Originally Posted by Queenofredlions

Uh, no, I did research, just never understood temperature devices. Like I said. I saw someone on here say they use a temp gun and went for that because I had one and understood it.
And yeah naturally I suspect the guy who had snakes knows snakes better than I do.

Not that temperatrue had anything to do with my first post.

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Ok, I'll wrap up my replies to this OP with this:
PROPER research would have taught you the difference between thermometers, thermostats, temp guns, etc...
PROPER research would have taught you that the guy you got the snakes from has no clue about snakes.

OP, I have no issue with you personally and would be happy to help moving forward. But this is a LIVING being, and taking ownership of it requires more than a few hours of research.

I honestly, whole heartedly wish you and your snake the best.

Walmart sells snakes ?
I would not go to mouse if you already got him eating rats because one rat which will fill your snake is easier and less expensive than feeding it multiple mice and if your snake eats a mouse it may acquire a taste for mice over rats .
If ur feeding live there shouldn’t be too much of an issue witth the bedding sticking to the fur and siding t to be ingested .
I
know some people feed frozen thawed and soak the actual rat in the water then dry off with a hair dryer . I put my frozen thawed (FT) out in a ziplock for a few hours then I put the ziplock into hot water until they are at 90 degrees then I offer them to the snake. if they somehow get wet I will blow dry the dead rat until dry and at the right temp. Keep in mind if you blow dry them the scent gets into the air and your snake will be very ready to eat and the room you do it in will smell pretty gross.
I feed my juveniles every 5 days and they are eating FT rat pups and small rat. I feed my adult male med rats every 7-10 days . I read his body language he lets me know when he’s hungry .

If I were you ,not saying you have to, but I would try to convert to frozen thawed rats . In my opinion it’s a little more work but it’s better for the snake. The rats can bite and claw your snake when being fed . Plenty of people feed live and don’t have any issues it’s just my personal preference . Now, if your snake refuses your live rat DO NOT leave the rat in the cage with your snake unattended . There has been many cases where the rat actually bites and attacks the snakes taking chunks out of them causing infections and a whole lot of unneeded issues .

Don’t let any of this scare you or overwhelm you once you get the hang of things it will be easy . If you have any questions feel free to DM Me and I’ll get back to you ASAP .I’m usually on a few hours a day so contact me whenever .





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Originally Posted by Joelgriz8124

Walmart sells snakes ?

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A little bit off topic, can someone confirm this?

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Originally Posted by Slicercrush

A little bit off topic, can someone confirm this?

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I read the original posters paragraph wrong , I thought she said she got him at Walmart , but she was talking about bedding . Sorry my bad


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Originally Posted by Joelgriz8124

Walmart sells snakes ?
I would not go to mouse if you already got him eating rats because one rat which will fill your snake is easier and less expensive than feeding it multiple mice and if your snake eats a mouse it may acquire a taste for mice over rats .
If ur feeding live there shouldn’t be too much of an issue witth the bedding sticking to the fur and siding t to be ingested .
I
know some people feed frozen thawed and soak the actual rat in the water then dry off with a hair dryer . I put my frozen thawed (FT) out in a ziplock for a few hours then I put the ziplock into hot water until they are at 90 degrees then I offer them to the snake. if they somehow get wet I will blow dry the dead rat until dry and at the right temp. Keep in mind if you blow dry them the scent gets into the air and your snake will be very ready to eat and the room you do it in will smell pretty gross.
I feed my juveniles every 5 days and they are eating FT rat pups and small rat. I feed my adult male med rats every 7-10 days . I read his body language he lets me know when he’s hungry .

If I were you ,not saying you have to, but I would try to convert to frozen thawed rats . In my opinion it’s a little more work but it’s better for the snake. The rats can bite and claw your snake when being fed . Plenty of people feed live and don’t have any issues it’s just my personal preference . Now, if your snake refuses your live rat DO NOT leave the rat in the cage with your snake unattended . There has been many cases where the rat actually bites and attacks the snakes taking chunks out of them causing infections and a whole lot of unneeded issues .

Don’t let any of this scare you or overwhelm you once you get the hang of things it will be easy . If you have any questions feel free to DM Me and I’ll get back to you ASAP .I’m usually on a few hours a day so contact me whenever .





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Oo I didn’t know you could switch to frozen. That’s nice because I cried watching the rat die 🙃 I’ll look into that, thank you!

Most of us feed F/t. Safer for your snake. Especially as they get older and move up in rodent size.