Thermostats

I know I've been asking a lot of questions, but here goes.

My thermostat is working wonderfully, but the only problem is that I'm having to daily adjust the temperature to keep it at 90-91 degrees, and I'm wondering if this is normal, and If it is not what I can maybe do to fix it?

I'm using an UTH and the Zilla Thermostat.

Thanks so much!! :)

UTH's have some variability in thermal distribution, a 1 degree variation is easily within specification. I wouldn't bother adjusting for a single degree-your pet won't know the difference.

I am guessing it is the analog dial type they sell? This is an on/off style with a dial to guesstimate the temp. The on off nature of these style of thermostats means it will shut off once it gets to temp and not come back on until the probe measures a certain temp. This causes a fluctuation in the temp of the UTH as it heats then shuts off and cools.

It's not a bad thing as long as you keep close to a desired temperature. Now if it varied say 20 degrees that would be an issue but a few degrees swing is nothing.

If however your OCD gets the best of you and you need constant temps, you need to spend the money and get a proportional style thermostat that will send micro pulses of electricity to the heating element to keep it more steady with the range you want.

So it is normal with low cost thermostats and not a problem as long as the range is just a small degree swing difference.

It is really warm in the day time (my house too) and then gets pretty cool at night and so that when I usually have to adjust the temp like, lower it in the day and raise it in at night... I'm just wondering If It's normal to have to do that? Or is it okay to have her hot spot cooler at night maybe?

Do you have an infrared heat gun? And where are you taking the temps for the uth and how are you taking the temp?

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Originally Posted by Sunnieskys

Do you have an infrared heat gun? And where are you taking the temps for the uth and how are you taking the temp?

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Yes, I have an infrared temperature gun.

You will have to buy a different/better thermostat if you want to adjust the heat settings for different times of the day.

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Originally Posted by SDA

I am guessing it is the analog dial type they sell? This is an on/off style with a dial to guesstimate the temp. The on off nature of these style of thermostats means it will shut off once it gets to temp and not come back on until the probe measures a certain temp. This causes a fluctuation in the temp of the UTH as it heats then shuts off and cools.

It's not a bad thing as long as you keep close to a desired temperature. Now if it varied say 20 degrees that would be an issue but a few degrees swing is nothing.

If however your OCD gets the best of you and you need constant temps, you need to spend the money and get a proportional style thermostat that will send micro pulses of electricity to the heating element to keep it more steady with the range you want.

So it is normal with low cost thermostats and not a problem as long as the range is just a small degree swing difference.

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Would it be fine for her to have a cooler hot spot at night?

Temperatures naturally drop at night anyway so if yours moves a few degrees it's no big deal.

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Originally Posted by EL-Ziggy

Temperatures naturally drop at night anyway so if yours moves a few degrees it's no big deal.

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Would 85 be fine at night?

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Originally Posted by AnnieHeart

It is really warm in the day time (my house too) and then gets pretty cool at night and so that when I usually have to adjust the temp like, lower it in the day and raise it in at night... I'm just wondering If It's normal to have to do that? Or is it okay to have her hot spot cooler at night maybe?

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Isn't it the thermostat's job to regulate? I keep an eye on it but small fluctuations are not bad. They get it naturally in the wild.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

Isn't it the thermostat's job to regulate? I keep an eye on it but small fluctuations are not bad. They get it naturally in the wild.

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So 85 degrees is an okay hot spot at night?

My comment assumes that your concern is that your temps are occasionally lower than you would like...

Keep in mind that your UTH can only raise the temperature so much. If your room temperature drops at night, your thermostat will cause the UTH to work harder to maintain the temperature that you set. I'm not familiar with your thermostat, but with a Herpstat you can actually see how hard the heat source is working to maintain the temperature that is set. If your UTH is running 100% and you're not able to maintain your temps, then you have two choices: increase your room temp or increase your heating capacity (typically by adding a CHE or an RHP).

It may simply be that you do not have enough heating capacity in your viv to maintain your temps when the house cools off at night.

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Originally Posted by Lord Sorril

UTH's have some variability in thermal distribution, a 1 degree variation is easily within specification. I wouldn't bother adjusting for a single degree-your pet won't know the difference.

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My problem is that it is very hot in the daytime and then it gets a lot cooler at night, and so my temp are changing a lot and so I was wondering if it's around 90-91 in the day on her hot spot, if it is fine to be around 85 on her hot spot at night?

What are your daytime and nighttime temp readings on your UTH? It doesn't make sense for there to be much variation. As others have stated, the UTH should just be working harder at night to maintain the set temperature.


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Originally Posted by AnnieHeart

I know I've been asking a lot of questions, but here goes.

My thermostat is working wonderfully, but the only problem is that I'm having to daily adjust the temperature to keep it at 90-91 degrees, and I'm wondering if this is normal, and If it is not what I can maybe do to fix it?

I'm using an UTH and the Zilla Thermostat.

Thanks so much!! :)

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Sounds like you might have a rheostat/dimmer not a thermostat, a dimmer just regulates the current being sent to the UTH, a thermostat should do as described and monitor the temp to what you put the setpoint at and turn the UTH off and on as necessary. A dimmer style stays exactly where you set it and you will see fluctuations due to room temp changes.

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Originally Posted by HarleyBalls

Sounds like you might have a rheostat/dimmer not a thermostat, a dimmer just regulates the current being sent to the UTH, a thermostat should do as described and monitor the temp to what you put the setpoint at and turn the UTH off and on as necessary. A dimmer style stays exactly where you set it and you will see fluctuations due to room temp changes.

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Oooh, maybe that's my problem... it is called, Zilla Reptile Terrarium Heat & Habitat Lighting Temp. Controller, 500W, it doesn't say thermostat...does this sound like one?

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Originally Posted by AnnieHeart

Oooh, maybe that's my problem... it is called, Zilla Reptile Terrarium Heat & Habitat Lighting Temp. Controller, 500W, it doesn't say thermostat...does this sound like one?

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Mid it doesn’t have a temperature probe as well as the socket for the UTH it is definitely a rheostat. I started with these and they do fluctuate, I was adjusting them a little every day twice a day! I went with some jumpstart thermostats.

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Originally Posted by HarleyBalls

Mid it doesn’t have a temperature probe as well as the socket for the UTH it is definitely a rheostat. I started with these and they do fluctuate, I was adjusting them a little every day twice a day! I went with some jumpstart thermostats.

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Hmmm...nevermind then because mine does have a temp probe and a place where I'm plugging in the UTH...
My house temperatures fluctuate all day long, would a well-running thermostat keep control even in fluctuating temperatures? :confusd:

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Originally Posted by AnnieHeart

Hmmm...nevermind then because mine does have a temp probe and a place where I'm plugging in the UTH...
My house temperatures fluctuate all day long, would a well-running thermostat keep control even in fluctuating temperatures? :confusd:

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From what another poster said, probably. Or you could have a faulty one.


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Originally Posted by HarleyBalls

From what another poster said, probably. Or you could have a faulty one.


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My house temperatures fluctuate all day long, would a well-running thermostat keep control even in fluctuating temperatures? :confusd:

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Originally Posted by AnnieHeart

My house temperatures fluctuate all day long, would a well-running thermostat keep control even in fluctuating temperatures? :confusd:

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Yes. You should be able to maintain temp within a couple degrees, at least on the hot spot, ambient will still fluctuate because of the temp in the house. I would try a jumpstart, it’s probably cheaper than the one you have. How well is your temp probe attached and where is it located?


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Originally Posted by HarleyBalls

Yes. You should be able to maintain temp within a couple degrees, at least on the hot spot, ambient will still fluctuate because of the temp in the house. I would try a jumpstart, it’s probably cheaper than the one you have. How well is your temp probe attached and where is it located?


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The temperature probe is resting between the UTH and glass, directly above where her hide is

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Originally Posted by AnnieHeart

The temperature probe is resting on the UTH directly above where her hide is

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As long as pressed tightly between the UTH and the enclosure that should be perfect. Try a different Tstat and return that one.


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Originally Posted by HarleyBalls

As long as pressed tightly between the UTH and the enclosure that should be perfect. Try a different Tstat and return that one.


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I think that's what I'll end up doing if I can't fix it. I'm going to double check everything and then I'll decide. Do you have a favorite high quality or really well-made thermostat that you would recommend if I can get mine to work?

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Originally Posted by AnnieHeart

I think that's what I'll end up doing if I can't fix it. I'm going to double check everything and then I'll decide. Do you have a favorite high quality or really well-made thermostat that you would recommend if I can get mine to work?

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I think everyone would agree herpstat and one other brand are the most popular. I haven’t gone to a herpstat quite yet because I need the Herpstat 4 and it’s around $400 I believe. I think the standard Herpstat can be bought for around $100.


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Originally Posted by HarleyBalls

I think everyone would agree herpstat and one other brand are the most popular. I haven’t gone to a herpstat quite yet because I need the Herpstat 4 and it’s around $400 I believe. I think the standard Herpstat can be bought for around $100.


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Okay! Thank you for taking the time to help me, I really do appreciate it a lot. :)

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Originally Posted by AnnieHeart

Okay! Thank you for taking the time to help me, I really do appreciate it a lot. :)

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Glad to help! Let us know what the final fix was!


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Originally Posted by HarleyBalls

Glad to help! Let us know what the final fix was!


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I certainly will! Tonight it is getting cool again and so I can mess around with it and see what happens! For now, though, I'll have to just adjust it frequently.

I'm decideding to just get a herpstat..... where did you guys buy yours? I was looking a herpstats and do they kind of look like a square box?

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Originally Posted by AnnieHeart

I'm decideding to just get a herpstat..... where did you guys buy yours? I was looking a herpstats and do they kind of look like a square box?

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Spyderrobotics.com

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https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...products_id=23

Is this one what you guys are talking about?

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Originally Posted by AnnieHeart

I'm decideding to just get a herpstat..... where did you guys buy yours? I was looking a herpstats and do they kind of look like a square box?

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To simplify it, Herpstat is the thermostat and the number represents how many devices it can regulate. I know this sounds simple, but it took me an embarrassing amount of time to realize this. Amazon might have 1 or 2 in stock (last I checked there was only 1) or even someone nearby could be selling one. Either way, you're probably going to be dropping a chunk of change on it.

I recently upgraded from Jumpstarts to the Herpstat2. The Jumpstarts were fine, but I did have to tinker with them (I had 2 - 1 for the UTH and 1 for the CHE) every couple of days to keep the temps where I wanted them. So I was ready for an upgrade.

I compared the Herpstat2 (redline) on Amazon to Spyder Robotics. It ended up cheaper at Spyder and I got it in 3 business days. I absolutely LOVE my Herpstat. What a huge step up in quality and features. I watched a quick Youtube video on setting my temps and times, and voila - done! If you have the financial means to skip the introductory therms, I would totally start with the Herpstat. Just be sure you're getting the appropriate model for the number of heat sources you're regulating.

You have the option to set daytime temps and nighttime temps, if you want a natural drop. I have the hotspot set to run at 90º day and night, ambient temps with the CHE set to run at 80º day and night. (edit to add: the actual thermostat is set at 93º for the hotspot, so the tempgun reads 90º at the bottom of the tub, 88º or so on top of the substrate)

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Originally Posted by hilabeans

I recently upgraded from Jumpstarts to the Herpstat2. The Jumpstarts were fine, but I did have to tinker with them (I had 2 - 1 for the UTH and 1 for the CHE) every couple of days to keep the temps where I wanted them. So I was ready for an upgrade.

I compared the Herpstat2 (redline) on Amazon to Spyder Robotics. It ended up cheaper at Spyder and I got it in 3 business days. I absolutely LOVE my Herpstat. What a huge step up in quality and features. I watched a quick Youtube video on setting my temps and times, and voila - done! If you have the financial means to skip the introductory therms, I would totally start with the Herpstat. Just be sure you're getting the appropriate model for the number of heat sources you're regulating.

You have the option to set daytime temps and nighttime temps, if you want a natural drop. I have the hotspot set to run at 90º day and night, ambient temps with the CHE set to run at 80º day and night. (edit to add: the actual thermostat is set at 93º for the hotspot, so the tempgun reads 90º at the bottom of the tub, 88º or so on top of the substrate)

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Okay, thanks! What are your thoughts on the Herpstat EZ1 ?

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Originally Posted by AnnieHeart

Okay, thanks! What are your thoughts on the Herpstat EZ1 ?

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No personal experience with the EZ, but I believe a few here use them and like them. Herpstat's a great product, so if the features meet your needs then by all means. I bet if you searched herpstat EZ on the forum it would pull up a few threads referencing them, and you can gather some firsthand feedback that way.

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Originally Posted by hilabeans

No personal experience with the EZ, but I believe a few here use them and like them. Herpstat's a great product, so if the features meet your needs then by all means. I bet if you searched herpstat EZ on the forum it would pull up a few threads referencing them, and you can gather some firsthand feedback that way.

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I ordered the Herpstat 1. It was very stressful with the Zilla thermostat, and I'm glad to get rid of it!!!!

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Originally Posted by AnnieHeart

I ordered the Herpstat 1. It was very stressful with the Zilla thermostat, and I'm glad to get rid of it!!!!

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You're going to love it!

I would recommend the Herpstat 2 at a minimum. Chances are you are going to end up with a second heat source or a second BP before too long. The Herpstat 2 is only $56 more than the Herpstat 1 ($195 vs $139).

I bought a Herpstat 1 for my first BP and shortly thereafter realized I needed to add a CHE (which ended up going on a Jumpstart). Recently, we purchased our second BP and I decided to expect the inevitable and purchased a Herpstat 6.

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Originally Posted by larryd23

I would recommend the Herpstat 2 at a minimum. Chances are you are going to end up with a second heat source or a second BP before too long. The Herpstat 2 is only $56 more than the Herpstat 1 ($195 vs $139).

I bought a Herpstat 1 for my first BP and shortly thereafter realized I needed to add a CHE (which ended up going on a Jumpstart). Recently, we purchased our second BP and I decided to expect the inevitable and purchased a Herpstat 6.

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I didn’t know there was a 6! I was going to save and get a 4 but I have a five tub rack so a 6 will be great! Wish they made a 5!


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Originally Posted by larryd23

I would recommend the Herpstat 2 at a minimum. Chances are you are going to end up with a second heat source or a second BP before too long. The Herpstat 2 is only $56 more than the Herpstat 1 ($195 vs $139).

I bought a Herpstat 1 for my first BP and shortly thereafter realized I needed to add a CHE (which ended up going on a Jumpstart). Recently, we purchased our second BP and I decided to expect the inevitable and purchased a Herpstat 6.

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I tend to agree. I would consider a 2 the minimum. I bet you could call them and swap it out.

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Originally Posted by larryd23

I would recommend the Herpstat 2 at a minimum. Chances are you are going to end up with a second heat source or a second BP before too long. The Herpstat 2 is only $56 more than the Herpstat 1 ($195 vs $139).

I bought a Herpstat 1 for my first BP and shortly thereafter realized I needed to add a CHE (which ended up going on a Jumpstart). Recently, we purchased our second BP and I decided to expect the inevitable and purchased a Herpstat 6.

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Why will I need a second heat source?

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Originally Posted by AnnieHeart

Why will I need a second heat source?

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You may not. It really depends on your viv and your environment.

I had my first BP in an Exo-Terra viv, which does not maintain heat or humidity very well imho. I live in NY and the temp in my home during the winter is typically 72 during the day and 66 at night. The Ultratherm UTH I had at first was able to maintain 90-92 degrees for belly heat on the warm side, but my ambient temperatures were way too low. I had to add a 60 watt CHE to maintain my ambient temps at 80-82 degrees.

So... in my situation I needed one heat source for ambient heat and another for belly heat.

Not sure where you are located geographically, but seasonal changes can make it difficult to keep your snake's ambient air temp at a steady 77º-80º throughout the year. I like to keep my home AC around 72º-75º in the Summer and 68º-70º in the Winter. In order to keep my snake's habitat at a constant 78º-80º, I use a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) which needs to be regulated by the second Herpstat feature.

If your ambient air temps fluctuate widely throughout the year, you may need a CHE in which case you'll need to run two thermostats.

So you guys are meaning I may need a second source of heat for my ambient temperature, not my hot spot? Or, that if my hot spot isn't very steady then I need to add a second heat source for my ambient temperature which would make my hot spot a steady temperature?

You need to provide a thermal gradient in your enclosure - so a warm side and a cool side, with an identical hide on each side.

Warm Side:
A UTH provides belly heat only, it will do nothing to warm the air in the enclosure. Your snake needs that belly heat to digest, so the UTH is important. The surface temp of your enclosure, inside the tank - just above the UTH (which is under the tank), should read no higher than 90º. Provide a hide on top of your UTH for your snake to curl up in while it digests it's meals for a day or two. This is your warm side.

Cool Side:
Your cool side hide will be opposite the tank from the warm hide, and in the upper 70s to 80 degrees. If you are able to keep the room of your house that your snake is in 77º to 80º year round, then you don't need to worry about a secondary heating source maintaining the ambient temps in his tank. But like I said, that's generally not feasible. So a Ceramic Heat Emitter is typically used to maintain the cool side temps. And you must plug the CHE into a thermostat to make sure it doesn't heat over 80º. This takes care of the cool side and maintains the ambient air.

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Originally Posted by hilabeans

You need to provide a thermal gradient in your enclosure - so a warm side and a cool side, with an identical hide on each side.

Warm Side:
A UTH provides belly heat only, it will do nothing to warm the air in the enclosure. Your snake needs that belly heat to digest, so the UTH is important. The surface temp of your enclosure, inside the tank - just above the UTH (which is under the tank), should read no higher than 90º. Provide a hide on top of your UTH for your snake to curl up in while it digests it's meals for a day or two. This is your warm side.

Cool Side:
Your cool side hide will be opposite the tank from the warm hide, and in the upper 70s to 80 degrees. If you are able to keep the room of your house that your snake is in 77º to 80º year round, then you don't need to worry about a secondary heating source maintaining the ambient temps in his tank. But like I said, that's generally not feasible. So a Ceramic Heat Emitter is typically used to maintain the cool side temps. And you must plug the CHE into a thermostat to make sure it doesn't heat over 80º. This takes care of the cool side and maintains the ambient air.

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I know about having a cool side and a warm side, I was just confused as to why I need a second heat source when I'm getting the thermostat for my hot spot...
Do you think the herpstat will be able to control my hot spot and keep it at 90 when my house temps fluctuate?

Hmm, not sure how else to explain...

You will need a secondary heat source (CHE) if the ambient/cool side temp in your tank cannot be maintained within the proper range - which is 77º-80º. If the air temps in the room stay in that range then you will not need a secondary heat source. But most people do not keep their homes heated year round at 77º-80º, thus the secondary heat source.

Again, a UTH will not raise ambient air temps. It only provides a hot spot for belly heat. Your Herpstat1 will control the UTH just fine. But if you are using two heat sources (UTH and CHE) - then you would need a Herpstat2.

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Originally Posted by hilabeans

Hmm, not sure how else to explain...

You will need a secondary heat source (CHE) if the ambient/cool side temp in your tank cannot be maintained within the proper range - which is 77º-80º. If the air temps in the room stay in that range then you will not need a secondary heat source. But most people do not keep their homes heated year round at 77º-80º, thus the secondary heat source.

Again, a UTH will not raise ambient air temps. It only provides a hot spot for belly heat. Your Herpstat1 will control the UTH just fine. But if you are using two heat sources (UTH and CHE) - then you would need a Herpstat2.

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Ahh, okay, makes sense. Sorry for being so confusing, this is my first ball python and sometimes it can be confusing for me to understand how to meet their needs. I am understanding it now, thankfully! You guys were so helpful.

Since I got my BP at a time when it is our hotter season I haven't had to worry about ambient temps because I shut my windows so that it stays nice and warm(literally 80 degrees) in the room she is in, and so her ambient temp is 80 degrees. In the winter though, I will definitely have to probably use another heat source.

Yeah - it's tricky to explain things sometimes for me when I can't gesture, LOL! I use my hands a lot to explain what I mean. If you are able to, try and change your order to a Herpstat2. You will need the secondary heat source in the winter and having one unit control both is soooo nice.