My BP questions/status

Hello everyone! I decided to make a new BP husbandry thread because my old one(https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-time-behavior) had an invalid title(those problems were already more or less solved). I recently got a male BP from XYZReptiles. He is currently 5 months old and around 110 grams. So, my situation isn't so great right now because I just found out my snake has mites, he's eaten the first time in three weeks after I got him(he ate live, I had to get a live hopper), and decided to go into shed on the day that I was supposed to feed him. I will be following GoHerpings mite guide(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnJqt9Up2eI) but using Pro-vent a mite instead of the spray used in the video. When I found out about the mites I quickly soaked my snake and placed him into a large tub with a new water bowl and little flower pot hide. He has been in there for two nights and the temp in there is 82 degrees Fahrenheit(no heat pad). I'm currently waiting for him to shed to move him back into his 24 hour soaked enclosure(and supplies). My now fully washed(mite ready) setup looks like this: 1x Twenty gallon tank, 2x Screen Lock, 1x ZooMed 10-20 gallon 8 watt UTH, 1x iPower Small Thermostat, 2x plastic hides, 1x White Water Bowl, 2x layers of paper towel substrate, 1x Digital Thermometer and Humidity Gauge(I will be getting a second one soon), 1x Infrared Thermometer Gun. My Temps: 89-93 degrees Fahrenheit on hot spot, 78-81 degrees Fahrenheit on the cool spot. My humidity: 57-60%

I will now begin asking my questions. I will post a "✔" when my answer will be answered. I will add more questions when I have them.

(1) My snake is currently in a humid tub for shedding(I will take him out as soon as he sheds), when should I try and feed him(he will be eating a live small adult mouse)?

(2) Should I feed him regularly while he will be treated from mites?

(3) When should I start mite treatment(before or after he eats)?

I thank everyone who replies and helps me get through this not so great time.

Hi,

Have you read the caresheet?

I wouldn't try and feed him if his temp range is a flat 82f - I'd try and get closer to 86f tbh before considering it. It won't do any harm to wait till he sheds and moves back to his full time home.

But flat ranges are best left to people who can really read the snakes body language and behaviour ( like the Barkers at VPI.com ) than people just starting out. Sorry if that sounds a bit mean but, honestly it is the truth. :oops:

The very last thing you want is a regurge because of low temps at this stage.

Repeat the P-A-Mite treatment in 30 days and then again in 30 days after that - this should eradicate the mites. :gj:

And yes you can feed as normal during treatment once he is back in the correct environment. :)

Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have read the caresheet. What I meant by 82 degrees, is that in his tub(that he will stay in until he sheds) it's 82 degrees. I will only try and feed him when he's back in his actual home that does have a UTH. How long should I wait before I try and feed him in his new looking enclosure? I'm just asking because it looks totally different than what it was(new hides and water bowl). How long do you think it will take him to adjust to those changes?

That is one of those things that can vary from snake to snake - I'd say give him 48 hours minimum to settle in and then offer - but don't stress out if it takes him a bit longer.

I also would recommend not handling them for the settling in period - there will be plenty of time to interact later once things are going smoothly. :)

Thanks for the info! I won't handle him at all until I get him to eat again. Thanks again.

***UPDATE***
I just got two cans of Pro-vent-a-mite in the mail.
Monty is still in shed but he has more or less cleared up so I'm expecting a shed tonight.

I will update again when he;s out of shed.

***UPDATE #2***
Monty has shed an hour ago. Shed came out just fine with just a bit stuck on his tail. Luckily, I witnessed the whole scene because many people don't see snakes shedding often. I currently sprayed everything(except the water bowl) with Provent-a-mite and put Monty back into his old tank. I now have a new question, haha. I'm worried about him burrowing under the paper towel and getting a little bit too hot from the UTH, any way I can stop him from getting down there?
Thanks for reading. :)

I don't think you could stop him from getting under the paper towel.Do you have a thermostat for your UTH? If not I would just unplug it until you get one, or use a dimmer is a interim solution.

Yes, I do have a thermostat(it's been changing quite rapidly. It's been acting quite strange lately. I'm probably gonna order a Jumpstart tonight or tomorrow. Now that I think about it, I could place some somewhat heavy objects on each corner of the tank to atleast hold it down a little bit. Anyways, Thanks for your reply!

I'm throwing out another quick little update.
I just found poop in one of my BP's new hides. It's awfully strange because he hasn't eaten in about two weeks. He had some strange little red/orange dots near his poop. Is that fine? I also noticed a few more dots in his tub after he shed. Any answers are appreciated.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Danya

I'm throwing out another quick little update.
I just found poop in one of my BP's new hides. It's awfully strange because he hasn't eaten in about two weeks. He had some strange little red/orange dots near his poop. Is that fine? I also noticed a few more dots in his tub after he shed. Any answers are appreciated.

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young ball pythons will hold in their waste for a loooong time. since they're ambush predators, they can't really poop in their hiding spot as it will smell and give them away.

as for the red spots: how long ago did he shed and when did you first see his poop and red/orange dots? during the shedding process, as the skin is being pulled from the anal vent, a beep's booty can get a bit irritated and possibly have a spot or two of blood. it happens. i personally have never experienced this, but i have seen my oldest male with a VERY red and slightly swollen cloaca RIGHT after a shed. it was alarming, but it returned to normal after about half a day.

do you have any pics of what you're describing?

Sorry for my late reply, my internet went out. He shed two days ago, and he pooped probably a few hours later. Sadly, I already cleaned up after him so I can't take any pictures. I hope it's nothing serious. Thanks for your reply.

Well, it's been a whole month without any updates from me. There weren't any problems on my end, so I didn't really feel to update. I feel like I have accomplished a lot in the past month though. I finally got rid of the mites and have given my BP all of his old hides(I had to get a new one because he outgrow one), substrate, etc... After about 4 live feeding I finally got him to eat frozen adult mice without any problems. But, the best thing that I have done is get all my friends and family to really love my snake, so much that they allowed me to get another snake on my birthday(Mid-October). This is a very short update. Thanks for reading and helping!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Danya

Well, it's been a whole month without any updates from me. There weren't any problems on my end, so I didn't really feel to update. I feel like I have accomplished a lot in the past month though. I finally got rid of the mites and have given my BP all of his old hides(I had to get a new one because he outgrow one), substrate, etc... After about 4 live feeding I finally got him to eat frozen adult mice without any problems. But, the best thing that I have done is get all my friends and family to really love my snake, so much that they allowed me to get another snake on my birthday(Mid-October). This is a very short update. Thanks for reading and helping!

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Very happy to read all is going well for you and your snake!!

Guys I need some advice asap. My BP is in shed and I decided to feed him and he took the frozen mouse. Now the problem, he left his hot spot and got into his cold side in the night which stays between 77-81 degrees. Hot spot is between 90 and 93 and is connected to a thermostat. Should I be worried about a refugee?? Thanks for reading, answers needed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Danya

Guys I need some advice asap. My BP is in shed and I decided to feed him and he took the frozen mouse. Now the problem, he left his hot spot and got into his cold side in the night which stays between 77-81 degrees. Hot spot is between 90 and 93 and is connected to a thermostat. Should I be worried about a refugee?? Thanks for reading, answers needed.

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No need to worry. If he's chilly he'll move back to his hot spot.

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Originally Posted by craigafrechette

No need to worry. If he's chilly he'll move back to his hot spot.

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Should I start getting worried because he still hasn't left the cool spot? Btw, It's been 16 hours since he ate. Should I in any case try to interfere? Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Danya

Should I start getting worried because he still hasn't left the cool spot? Btw, It's been 16 hours since he ate. Should I in any case try to interfere? Thanks.

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I wouldn't think that there's any reason to interfere. My little one is often found on the cool side of his cage, they'll go back when they really feel like it. You can keep an eye if you want, but I would say they are more than likely fine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Danya

Should I start getting worried because he still hasn't left the cool spot? Btw, It's been 16 hours since he ate. Should I in any case try to interfere? Thanks.

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Nope. He'll move when he wants to. Snake's have survived thousands of years without anybody moving them so they could be a bit warmer. They're very good at surviving. Just let him be. When he's finished digesting he'll start moving around more.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by craigafrechette

Nope. He'll move when he wants to. Snake's have survived thousands of years without anybody moving them so they could be a bit warmer. They're very good at surviving. Just let him be. When he's finished digesting he'll start moving around more.

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But how can he digest his food if there's no belly warmth?

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Originally Posted by Danya

But how can he digest his food if there's no belly warmth?

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your temperatures fall within proper husbandry range for a ball python; your snake will be able to properly digest its food without needing to be directly over a hot spot. when a beep needs to seek out some place warmer, it's usually after a meal so that's why belly heat is provided. they don't always need it, but they have the choice to thermoregulate as they please and that's what is important. :)

Ah okay thanks! Good news, he left his cool hide and is back on the hotspot. I think I'm over thinking everything waaaay to much. Thanks for the h err lp everyone.

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Originally Posted by Danya

I think I'm over thinking everything waaaay to much.

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i'd say you are, too. ;) don't worry; the more you learn, the more at ease you'll feel with your husbandry. :)

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Originally Posted by Danya

But how can he digest his food if there's no belly warmth?

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See tttaylorrr's reply:

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

your temperatures fall within proper husbandry range for a ball python; your snake will be able to properly digest its food without needing to be directly over a hot spot. when a beep needs to seek out some place warmer, it's usually after a meal so that's why belly heat is provided. they don't always need it, but they have the choice to thermoregulate as they please and that's what is important. :)

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Danya

Ah okay thanks! Good news, he left his cool hide and is back on the hotspot. I think I'm over thinking everything waaaay to much. Thanks for the h err lp everyone.

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Yes, you're over thinking way too much. But hey, that shows you care. Keep reading, keep learning. Soon enough you'll be spending less time worrying and more time enjoying your pet.