Underweight BP - Input Needed

I've had my ball python for about 4 months, and had trouble getting him to eat. He wouldn't take mice that I thought would be right for his size, so I've had to get smaller ones for him. He also went on a feeding strike for a bit, which he is now off of, but still seems to be having a hard time taking larger mice.

I recently noticed that his spine/back looks a bit more triangular than rounded off, which I heard means that the snake is underweight. He hasn't yet shed in the time that I've had him, and hasn't grown much. He's currently only at around 200 grams at 7 months old, which from what I've seen is very small.

My current plan is to try to give him more food more often (maybe once every 5 days at large adult mice?) in a sort of "feeding burst" to get him to gain weight. Would you guys recommend I do this?

I'm also am currently trying to get him onto large adult mice, but like I said, it's a bit tough. If I can't get him to make a switch, should I try to give him more than one smaller mouse at a time?



*husbandry is pretty normal. I've got his heat mat at around 90 F and humidity at 60-65%, two hides, etc. etc.

If he is having issues taking larger mice, I would suggest feeding him smaller mice every 4 days or so untill he can eat larger ones. As long as he is eating consistently he should gain weight, even with smaller prey.

Can you post a pic of your setup? Even though you say husbandry is pretty normal, there's no way to help unless others take a look at it.

But if you really want to get him to eat, honestly just buy a 6qt tub and follow this guide here... Follow it exactly, and your BP will eat. The concept of BP's is they need to feel hidden and being able to hide themselves completely in dark tight spaces in order to feel comfortable enough to eat. The bigger your setup, the more "clutter" and steps it takes to make a proper setup for a BP.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-hatchling-101

https://image.ibb.co/bu33Mc/20180403_125539.jpg
This is his setup. I posted this picture a bit ago, and have since added a few more rocks/fake plants. Sorry if the newspaper is distracting, it's easier to get a hold of right now as I'm in a transition to coco fiber. (by the way, the yellow thing near the back is a sponge in a dish to help hold humidity. It's not very identifiable in the photo, though:)

Have you tried feeding 2 smaller prey in one night?

How are you thawing your mice? Maybe the large mouse was not warmed as well as the smaller ones.

Ehhh.... the sponge needs to go, it's a great place for bacteria to breed and if he decided to try and drink out of it that could be an issue.

Is there any way that I could put the sponge somewhere that he couldn't get it, or I could just wring it out and clean it every few days? It's pretty dry here and helps keep the humidity up great, but if you think I should take it out then I definitely will.

Oh yeah, definitely switch out that log hide. It doesn't provide enough security for ball pythons.

Instead get two or three of these:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/small-hide-box

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...cts/smhide.jpg

That's also a very tall looking tub for such a tiny BP, so I would either buy a smaller/flatter tub, or fill up the space with flukers fake vines. If you want to stick to this large tub, you NEED clutter and to fill up the "open space".
https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta...flukers+leaves

I try to thaw the mice as thoroughly as possible, but it's possible that one of the large ones could've been cold. I'll make sure my temps are on point when I feed next time:)

When you switch to coco fiber/ coco chip, you won't need the sponge for humidity. For now you can spray the enclosure walls when the humidity drops.

Could we see an updated picture? I'd definitely add some viney fake plants so the snake can move from place to place while feeling hidden.

Honestly, based on your setup, I advise looking at the husbandry 101 stickies and the stickies about how to set up an enclosure. You're close, but some changes definitely should be made.

I'm not trying to be rude, but basically start with those stickies as if you're just starting your research phase.

There are 2 major reasons snakes don't eat. 1) is husbandry 2) is stress. Based on your setup, both could be a factor.
The stickies should answer a lot of questions all in one convenient thread and help you out.

Good luck and feel free to ask any questions you may have.

Lastly, this feeding chart is a great reference for prey size.





https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a7d6030449.jpg

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Thank you all for your help! I'm not too worried about the log hide right now, I have it set against the wall of the tub with some duct tape on the outside to block out the light.
Also, I took out the sponge. I was told by a pet store employee that it would help to hold in humidity, but I definitely don't want my BP getting sick. I'm making a lot more changes to his tank atm, trying to find more clutter for his tub (also ordering large fake plants to put in there) and will post a new thread w/ updates on it later! Thank you all so much for your input, it's helped a lot:)

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Originally Posted by kthoms104

Thank you all for your help! I'm not too worried about the log hide right now, I have it set against the wall of the tub with some duct tape on the outside to block out the light.
Also, I took out the sponge. I was told by a pet store employee that it would help to hold in humidity, but I definitely don't want my BP getting sick. I'm making a lot more changes to his tank atm, trying to find more clutter for his tub (also ordering large fake plants to put in there) and will post a new thread w/ updates on it later! Thank you all so much for your input, it's helped a lot:)

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Just making sure I'm reading this right...

There is no tape INSIDE the enclosure right??


...and even putting the logs against the glass doesn't provide the security they seek and thrive with. They like to be unseen when hiding. That one open end doesn't provide that at all.