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New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
This is my first post so be gentle :).
I just got a Caye Caulker (caye caulker, caulker caye, cay caulker caulker cay, ive always gone with caye caulker but ive seen it spelled different ways) last night and got everything set up, but I tend to worry about every little thing so I wanted to ask a few questions and get some general information.
1. What should hot side temps and humidity be, I was told to keep the hot side at 88 to 90 and the humidity between 60 and 70 but just wanted to hear from people that keep them.
2. What are some good ways to keep humidity up. My humidity keeps falling to 30 which I know is too low and when I spray it goes to 81 but falls pretty fast. I have a screen top with a towel over it right now. I bought some Sphagnum moss, what is the best way to use it?
3. I was told that a 40 gallon tank was all I needed for an adult as long as we got him out multiple times a week and that all I needed to get the correct temp would be a 150 watt ceramic heat emitter, but the temp on the hot side is staying at 81, should I get a UTH?
Thank you all for any advise you can give me and I hope any information that I get will allow me to help someone else in the future.
(I also need help naming him)
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Congrats and welcome to the forum! This place is a wealth of knowledge.
Please post some pictures!!
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
This is my first post so be gentle :).
I just got a Caye Caulker (caye caulker, caulker caye, cay caulker caulker cay, ive always gone with caye caulker but ive seen it spelled different ways) last night and got everything set up, but I tend to worry about every little thing so I wanted to ask a few questions and get some general information.
1. What should hot side temps and humidity be, I was told to keep the hot side at 88 to 90 and the humidity between 60 and 70 but just wanted to hear from people that keep them.
2. What are some good ways to keep humidity up. My humidity keeps falling to 30 which I know is too low and when I spray it goes to 81 but falls pretty fast. I have a screen top with a towel over it right now. I bought some Sphagnum moss, what is the best way to use it?
3. I was told that a 40 gallon tank was all I needed for an adult as long as we got him out multiple times a week and that all I needed to get the correct temp would be a 150 watt ceramic heat emitter, but the temp on the hot side is staying at 81, should I get a UTH?
Thank you all for any advise you can give me and I hope any information that I get will allow me to help someone else in the future.
(I also need help naming him)
I do not know the specifics for your Boa. However, I keep a BCI.
It will be almost impossible to keep a glass tank at the proper temperature AND humidity.
Are you checking temps with a temp gun?
Are you heat sources regulated?
These are important questions and I am not trying to be difficult, but especially with vast humidity changes, temps can change as well. Very important your temps are regulated. It's a must.
Even if you spray in WARM water, which is way better than cool water, it will lower temps. If you are doing it multiple times, much is wrong with the setup.
What kind of substrate are you using? You might need something that holds humidity better, but it's going to be an uphill battle.
I am sure 81F is too cold for the hot side. Probably ok for ambient or cool side, but not sure.
Also, a 40G sounds small to me, but again, I do not know the species well.
I am sorry you were misled into thinking a glass tank would work well for a Boa of any kind. Ultimately, if you want your guy to be happy and healthy, you probably need to get a proper enclosure. Something enclosed like a Boaphile, an Animal Plastics (AP), etc.
We can help more with that later. For now, get this tank under control as much as possible.
Awesome attitude wanting to learn and do what's best and ultimately help other people.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
I'm using a temp/hygrometer, where is the proper place to put the probe to measure humidity, right now its on the glass in the middle of the cage about an inch above the substrate. I have the temp probe on the hot side right now.
How do I regulate the heat source?
Im using the Zoomed forest floor cypress mulch.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
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This is a great video on dwarf boas in featuring Vin Russo (one of the all-time boa OG's) all of which are locales of BI. https://youtu.be/HfeCgsq-muw
As said above, you're just setting yourself up for frustration with a glass tank, but you don't necessarily have to go mega$$$ with the enclosure. Lots of people have great results with plastic tubs and totes. I'm not talking about a rack, but setting a tote up like a regular enclosure. Here is a link to a post a made all about my setup to someone with similar enclosure questions, i hope its helpful.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
I'm considering an animal plastic t8, there is one on sale for 150 on their website right now. Are the T8's any good?
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
I'm considering an animal plastic t8, there is one on sale for 150 on their website right now. Are the T8's any good?
Yes, they absolutely are.
I would argue that's THEE most popular PVC cage in the industry right now. I have several of them. A lot of people use Radiant Heat Panels with them (Pro-Products seems to be the go-to brand). I use 65 watt pro products panels in my AP T8's with excellent results.
Many people also like T10's because they're easier to clean due to a few more inches of vertical height.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
How do the Hygrometers work? I was just told to spray the tank until it gets to 80 and that it will fall to around 30 because its the ambient humidity where I live. Shouldn't it stay at what it is in the cage?
Sorry for all the questions and thank you everyone for all the answers you have given so far.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
How do the Hygrometers work? I was just told to spray the tank until it gets to 80 and that it will fall to around 30 because its the ambient humidity where I live. Shouldn't it stay at what it is in the cage?
Sorry for all the questions and thank you everyone for all the answers you have given so far.
So the advice given to you was pretty good but I would alter a few things slightly....
Aim for a hotspot of 88-90 and an ambient (cool side) temperature of about 78-80. Dwarf boas actually prefer slightly cooler temps. If you had a normal BCI I would say 80-90 is a good gradient otherwise. A few degrees isn't going to make a huge difference though, I don't live next to my thermostat like some people here lol.
What substrate are you using in your enclosure? That is a big question pertaining to your humidity levels.
PVC enclosures hold humidity extremely well, so you can get away with using newspaper or aspen as a substrate....you cannot get away with those substrates in a glass tank because the humidity simply evaporates out the top. So cypress mulch is usually a good choice for glass tanks as a result. It holds your humidity requirements (50-60%) where they need to be for longer BUT you will ultimately have to watch the humidity levels more often as you will constantly be losing it due to the cage design.
On a side note, your heat sources ALWAYS need to be regulated by a quality thermostat.
What I (personally) would do is order a T8, a pro products panel, and a good thermostat (Herpstat or Vivarium Electronics).....you will save yourself from the uphill battle of a glass tank. If you don't have the money to do so, you can use the 40 gallon breeder but you will constantly be monitoring your humidity and heating requirements.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
What I would do is add a cup or two of water and mix it into your cypress mulch to meet your humidity requirements. The mulch dries out gradually and spraying won't bring it back to where it needs to be. Monitor the humidity levels though. After a while (a month or two) you need to watch for mold though and replace it all if you see any.
Then....move your heat lamp fixture to the other side of the tank away from the water bowl because the wetted mulch will provide enough humidity. To save space you may then consider using a smaller water bowl as you won't need it to provide humidity..... and boas in my experience NEVER soak unless they have mites or the cage temp is incorrect.
Then...get your lamp fixture on a thermostat or rheostat. It seems extremely odd to me that a 150 watt ceramic should be reaching temperatures of only 81 directly underneath it....it should be MUCH warmer than that just by my own personal experiences.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Would it be good to put the probe for the hygrometer in the substrate or leave it where it is? What thermostat would you recommend?
with the animal plastic cages would it be alright if it hangs over the sides a couple inches? The surface I have right now is only 36 inches long.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
Would it be good to put the probe for the hygrometer in the substrate or leave it where it is? What thermostat would you recommend?
with the animal plastic cages would it be alright if it hangs over the sides a couple inches? The surface I have right now is only 36 inches long.
Put the hygrometer probe an inch or two above the substrate. If you put it IN the substrate it's going to read 100%.
I use Vivarium Electronics thermostats (all models are great).....but Herpstats are also great and very popular.
Yup! You'll be just fine if it hangs off the sides. Shouldn't be an issue. I've had the same problem before without any issues.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
What else would I need to buy if I bought one? Do they use a different type of heat source? if so what is an average price?
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
What else would I need to buy if I bought one? Do they use a different type of heat source? if so what is an average price?
Your bare bones shopping list with an Animal Plastics T8 is as follows:
Animal Plastics T8 ....$195 shipped I believe
http://www.apcages.com/home/
A radiant heat panel that attaches to the top of the cage on one side (this is your heat source). I use 65 watt Pro Products radiant heat panels in my T8's (roughly $100 shipped)
http://pro-products.com/pro-heat/
A quality thermostat of your choice (Vivarium Electronics, Herpstat, Helix)....the thermostat probe hangs down on the cool side of the cage, you set the thermostat to 78, and with average room temperatures of 70 degrees you'll hit a perfect 90 degree hotspot under your radiant heat panel....usually between $80-$130 (Your water bowl provides enough humidity to hit perfect 50-60% levels)
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
I'm probably going to go that route. from what it sounds like I'm going to have to do it either now or later and id rather do it now. How do you check the humidity in the animal plastics? I'm assuming the same way but at this point I would rather be safe then sorry.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
I'm probably going to go that route. from what it sounds like I'm going to have to do it either now or later and id rather do it now. How do you check the humidity in the animal plastics? I'm assuming the same way but at this point I would rather be safe then sorry.
You can't go wrong w/ a pvc enclosure. You would check humidity the same way you would regardless of your enclosure by using a hygrometer. Here's a link to the one I use:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/thermometers/TH-100/
The probe on the hygrometer hangs down in the cage and measures the humidity and it's recorded on the display.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Would it be bad if I kept the glass cage as long as I get the temperatures to the right spot and spray a few times a day to keep humidity up? Whats the best way of knowing when to spray?
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
Would it be bad if I kept the glass cage as long as I get the temperatures to the right spot and spray a few times a day to keep humidity up? Whats the best way of knowing when to spray?
I don't think anyone is saying that it can't be done (housing in a glass enclosure). I think it's just a matter where you might have to 'work a little harder' to achieve the environmental settings that will facilitate a good home for your BOA. As for spraying, my pvc is great at keeping humidity high so I don't have to spray. Since you're having issues, I would mist the substrate a little bit and see what that does to your humidity reading. You definitely don't want to soak the area because you don't want to have bacteria issues.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
I'm probably going to go that route. from what it sounds like I'm going to have to do it either now or later and id rather do it now. How do you check the humidity in the animal plastics? I'm assuming the same way but at this point I would rather be safe then sorry.
I monitor the humidity levels in my AP cages with just a standard Accurite household themometer/humidity unit. You just keep it in the cage. If it's not reading accurately you'll know by how well the boa sheds...but I have NEVER had humidity levels in the wrong place in an animal plastics cage. Mine ALWAYS read at 55%
I think you're making a fantastic investment that will last the life of the animal....(no bulbs to change is a huge factor because CHE's aren't cheap).
As Ckuhn said, you can keep the glass tank and use it but you're going to be constantly battling with maintenance. It's going to take a lot more trial and error to get your humidity and temperature settings right. That's not to say it's a bad setup but I would seriously consider the PVC setup.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakski
I do not know the specifics for your Boa. However, I keep a BCI.
Caye Caulker is simply a dwarf locality of Bi (BCi), so care is the same.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
As mentioned previously, a T8/T10 would be great, but make sure you get all the heating elements you will/need want from the beginning and a really good thermostat. It's a bunch up front, but sounds like you want to do, and they are stackable cages. If you spend little more now and want another snake down the road, you can buy a thermostat today that can do multiple tanks. Thus, saving money later.
I personally, and depending on your room temps, would get some flexwatt/UTH in addition to an RHP. You can run off the same thermostat and I like giving my snakes belly heat. It also gets down to 67F in my finished basement/snake room in the winter.
You may never need to run both, but the small incremental cost initially means you are future proofed.
I have my BCI in a 6X2X1' Boaphile tank and have a RHP and UTH on the hot side and an UTH (smaller one) for the cool side. Much bigger tank, but also can get chilly in my house. The incremental cost for the heat tape was so small compared to the tank and thermostat, I did to be safe. I find both the RHP and UTH run, but not much at all.
Just my two cents. I also do not have AP tanks. So others may have different views.
You are asking the right questions! Good luck and awesome looking snake!
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by AbsoluteApril
Caye Caulker is simply a dwarf locality of Bi (BCi), so care is the same.
Thank you AbsoluteApril!
Just a quick rundown then on temps in case it wasn't covered yet.
Hot spot/side: 86-89F
Ambient temps: 79-82F
Cool side: 80F
You already have humidity down. 60-70% or so.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Alright I just put an order in for a T8 which will be here in 3 to 4 weeks. what types of heat panels or heating sources can you buy, I called pro-products and left a message but wanted to see what other options there are out there.
Where is a good place to buy the thermostats? online or is there local stores like Lowes and Home Depot that sell them.
Seriously thank all of you again for the advise and help.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
Alright I just put an order in for a T8 which will be here in 3 to 4 weeks. what types of heat panels or heating sources can you buy, I called pro-products and left a message but wanted to see what other options there are out there.
Where is a good place to buy the thermostats? online or is there local stores like Lowes and Home Depot that sell them.
Seriously thank all of you again for the advise and help.
Congrats! That's a good 1st step. I've been having a hard time getting a hold of Bob @ Pro Products. I guess he's just super busy but he's the way to go. He'll ship the RHP to Animal Products for them to install. Although his lead time might be longer then the 3-4 weeks it will take for the AP to be delivered.
As for thermostat, I would highly recommend getting a HerpStat at https://www.spyderrobotics.com
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
Alright I just put an order in for a T8 which will be here in 3 to 4 weeks. what types of heat panels or heating sources can you buy, I called pro-products and left a message but wanted to see what other options there are out there.
Where is a good place to buy the thermostats? online or is there local stores like Lowes and Home Depot that sell them.
Seriously thank all of you again for the advise and help.
We are always happy to help! Especially someone who wants what's best for their animal(s).
I have a Boaphile setup, and got everything from them/Jeff Ronne. So, I am not sure on thermostats or RHP's. I have heard good things about Pro-Products, but I would wait for other people to chime in on where to get thermostats, which ones, and RHP's.
Good luck and we will be here if/when you have more questions.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
Alright I just put an order in for a T8 which will be here in 3 to 4 weeks. what types of heat panels or heating sources can you buy, I called pro-products and left a message but wanted to see what other options there are out there.
Where is a good place to buy the thermostats? online or is there local stores like Lowes and Home Depot that sell them.
Seriously thank all of you again for the advise and help.
You're making a great first start with the T8.
The only other company that comes to mind for Radiant Heat Panels is Reptile Basics. However, they are listing their heat panels as "out of stock"....you would need the 80 watt unit from them. I would stick with Pro-Products personally, no one ever complains about them and Bob will talk you through exactly what you need....but probably a 65 watt unit for a T8.
http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels
I like the recommendations on thermostats given thus far. They do not sell what you need at home improvement stores however.
Here are some great places to buy quality units:
https://www.spyderrobotics.com/
http://www.reptilebasics.com/thermostats
http://helixcontrols.com/?page_id=42
I personally only run radiant heat panels as a heat source, it's a good idea to have flexwatt but I have not found it to be necessary thus far (this is what Bob at Pro-Products recommended and so-far so good in several years of ownership). That's just what I do, mainly because I bought everything at once and was looking to save cash where I could lol.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Aaaand now I have the Herpstat EZ2 ordered since ill have an extra tank to fill one day. does anyone know how long it takes to get a call back from pro-products or what their ship times are like?
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
Aaaand now I have the Herpstat EZ2 ordered since ill have an extra tank to fill one day. does anyone know how long it takes to get a call back from pro-products or what their ship times are like?
It's been a few years since I dealt with Bob at Pro-Products but I think he got back to me in a day or two and at the time I ordered, shipping was approximately two weeks out.....if you ordered from him now you would probably be getting your heat panel way sooner than the cage. Like I said though, it's been a while since I've talked to him.....the guy knows his stuff. If you're confused by anything at this point as far as heating the cage goes, just ask him. He will talk your ear off about it in a good way.
....nice move on the double output thermostat btw, if you ever decide you want to run flexwatt you can do it easily now. :gj:
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinK
You're making a great first start with the T8.
The only other company that comes to mind for Radiant Heat Panels is Reptile Basics. However, they are listing their heat panels as "out of stock"....you would need the 80 watt unit from them. I would stick with Pro-Products personally, no one ever complains about them and Bob will talk you through exactly what you need....but probably a 65 watt unit for a T8.
http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels
I like the recommendations on thermostats given thus far. They do not sell what you need at home improvement stores however.
Here are some great places to buy quality units:
https://www.spyderrobotics.com/
http://www.reptilebasics.com/thermostats
http://helixcontrols.com/?page_id=42
I personally only run radiant heat panels as a heat source, it's a good idea to have flexwatt but I have not found it to be necessary thus far (this is what Bob at Pro-Products recommended and so-far so good in several years of ownership). That's just what I do, mainly because I bought everything at once and was looking to save cash where I could lol.
Yeah, I am a very anxious person. 2 heat elements for hot side = overkill, but also protection if one goes out, plus I like belly heat for snakes. I also have redundant thermostats on all my heating elements. I want to sleep at night!
As I stated, not saying my way or the highway, just what I do. Good to know an RHP works well for you though KevinK, and you have AP tanks.
I would note, and it's minor, RHP's heat the air way better than UTH heat alone, but also dry the air a little bit more. They are not bad at all, and do better than most heating elements out there. However, having both a UTH and RHP running probably drys the air a little less.
Good luck whatever you decide! Again, awesome snake and awesome owner for doing what's right for him/her.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
Aaaand now I have the Herpstat EZ2 ordered since ill have an extra tank to fill one day. does anyone know how long it takes to get a call back from pro-products or what their ship times are like?
That's a good question on the call back. I'd like to know myself ;)
As for ship times, when I ordered a custom RHP back around Xmas, I think I was told 2-3 weeks production time and it took closer to 4-5 weeks to be delivered. Than man is busy for a reason ;)
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Does anyone who has a T8 have pictures of their setup?
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
This is my first post so be gentle :).
I just got a Caye Caulker (caye caulker, caulker caye, cay caulker caulker cay, ive always gone with caye caulker but ive seen it spelled different ways) last night and got everything set up, but I tend to worry about every little thing so I wanted to ask a few questions and get some general information.
1. What should hot side temps and humidity be, I was told to keep the hot side at 88 to 90 and the humidity between 60 and 70 but just wanted to hear from people that keep them.
2. What are some good ways to keep humidity up. My humidity keeps falling to 30 which I know is too low and when I spray it goes to 81 but falls pretty fast. I have a screen top with a towel over it right now. I bought some Sphagnum moss, what is the best way to use it?
3. I was told that a 40 gallon tank was all I needed for an adult as long as we got him out multiple times a week and that all I needed to get the correct temp would be a 150 watt ceramic heat emitter, but the temp on the hot side is staying at 81, should I get a UTH?
Thank you all for any advise you can give me and I hope any information that I get will allow me to help someone else in the future.
(I also need help naming him)
Husbandry seems good. To keep humidity up, you want to reduce ventilation and increase surface area and volume of water evaporation. Misting is pretty much just good for making things wet, unless your humidity is already pretty much where it needs to be, spraying/misting won't do much and will cause wild humidity swings and lower your ambient temps temporarily (unless you use warm water). I use EcoEarth, and I pour water directly into the bedding and mix it up. As the water evaporates it provides all my humidity, and I only need to do that once every 1-2 weeks. Make sure not to oversaturate it, depending on what you use the signs of too much moisture vary. Other high humidity beddings that should keep humidity up: Grow!t, ReptiChip (not ReptiBark), and sphagnum moss. Cypress mulch repels water once it dries so it isn't good for humidity, and aspen molds very quickly in humid situations and will actually suck some of the humidity from the air.
With the moss, you can either make that your primary bedding, coat the top of another bedding with it, or stuff it into a humid hide.
You want Length+Width to be equal to or greater than the snake's length, regardless of if you take it out or not. If you handle it too often, you risk stressing it out, and if you handle the recommended amount it isn't enough to make up for a too-small enclosure. So long as your boa stays 4.5'-5' or smaller (depending on floor dimensions), a 40 gallon should work. A 150 watt CHE is likely going to be too much, I use a 100 watt to heat my 6'x2'x3's' cool sides. But I agree, the hot side needs to be bumped to 88-90F.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
I'm using a temp/hygrometer, where is the proper place to put the probe to measure humidity, right now its on the glass in the middle of the cage about an inch above the substrate. I have the temp probe on the hot side right now.
How do I regulate the heat source?
Im using the Zoomed forest floor cypress mulch.
I recommend Herpstat's. They're pricey but well worth it. Hydrofarms/Jumpstarts are a good temporary thermostat, but some or all may not have a failsafe in it to turn off the heating element if it malfunctions. I had a Hydrofarm fail recently, and it flashed a warning, but never stopped powering the heat tape, it read 125F according to my temp gun.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
Your boa needs a minimum of one snug-fitting hide on each side, if you have to sacrifice the larger bowl, then so be it. Otherwise, you'll need a larger enclosure.
Keep in mind the towel will not help hold in humidity, the moisture will escape right through it. You will need a nonporous material like Saran wrap, aluminum foil, or plexiglass.
As others recommended, I recommend an RHP as well! RHP's main function is to provide belly heat, so heat tape or UTHs will be redundant, but it will also raise ambient temps as the heat rises off the objects. Snakes can also absorb the IR heat much better from a panel vs from a heat pad/tape.
You won't regret your AP cages! I have two T12's, had them maybe 2 or 3 years now, and they're great. Easy to modify, can be taken apart, and hold humidity well. I have mine stacked directly on top of each other, haven't noticed any sagging like some people say.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by CloudtheBoa
I recommend Herpstat's. They're pricey but well worth it. Hydrofarms/Jumpstarts are a good temporary thermostat, but some or all may not have a failsafe in it to turn off the heating element if it malfunctions. I had a Hydrofarm fail recently, and it flashed a warning, but never stopped powering the heat tape, it read 125F according to my temp gun.
Wow, that sounds like a scary day! I hope everyone pulled through.
I run redundant thermostats. I am in bad shape if both fail open, but that's not very likely.
Good to know herpstat sells ones that offer more protection.
I agree, and sorry I missed it, that you need two hides. One in each heat zone (hot/cool).
I run an RHP and UTH mainly for redundancy (I am a nervous nelly). The incremental cost was very low to add the UTH, so I did (both run off the same thermostat). It's a preference thing, but not necessary.
I'll admit that I thought RHP's were more for air temp and "shine down/sun like" heat (not in that order though). I never thought about it adding belly heat. It makes sense though, when you think about it :). Well, I stand corrected and I am glad I learned something new today. I have seen many people successfully keep happy and healthy snakes in enclosures with just an RHP, but it never really clicked.
Thank you, as always, CloudtheBoa.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
I'll definitely pick up a second hide and a smaller water bowl. Would he be fine with just the one hide until my AP cage gets here or should I try to fit a second one in with a smaller water bowl.
What I did yesterday when I got home was I added more moss to the cypress mulch and mixed in some water as well.
I moved the heating source over his hide now and the hot spot on top of it was at 99 degrees and on the substrate was 85, the inside of his hide is at 84 and has extra moss and the cold side is at 69.
What temp would be too high for the hot spot? My thermostat will be here on Saturday and I am so extremely happy that I ordered one, just the thought of having one makes me stress about it less.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
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Originally Posted by dakski
Wow, that sounds like a scary day! I hope everyone pulled through.
I run redundant thermostats. I am in bad shape if both fail open, but that's not very likely.
Good to know herpstat sells ones that offer more protection.
I agree, and sorry I missed it, that you need two hides. One in each heat zone (hot/cool).
I run an RHP and UTH mainly for redundancy (I am a nervous nelly). The incremental cost was very low to add the UTH, so I did (both run off the same thermostat). It's a preference thing, but not necessary.
I'll admit that I thought RHP's were more for air temp and "shine down/sun like" heat (not in that order though). I never thought about it adding belly heat. It makes sense though, when you think about it :). Well, I stand corrected and I am glad I learned something new today. I have seen many people successfully keep happy and healthy snakes in enclosures with just an RHP, but it never really clicked.
Thank you, as always, CloudtheBoa.
It was just Howl (my adult male ghost), and he was able to escape the heat without any injury by sitting on top of his hide. Needless to say I threw it out, wasn’t a fun thing to wake up to. XD I’ve switched everyone off of Hydrofarms now, not wiling to risk it.
Snakes don’t really “need” belly heat, they absorb top-down IR hear much more efficiently than they do belly-only heat from a UTH or heat tape, especially if the air temp is too low. You can see this in wild snakes in cold habitats: they can sit right on top of snow and still stay warm by soaking up the sun’s rays. I think this is why I’ve noticed delayed digestion periods in my boas on heat tape vs with ambient heat, they take on average 3-4 extra days for any bulge to dissipate, though my bulges generally aren’t noticeable except in person where you can see how that area is swollen with gas. I do keep the room temp nice and warm, but there’s only so much heat tape can do.
But, with how popular racks are, I can see why that belief has spread. You can’t really use RHPs in racks very easily.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
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Originally Posted by Jordanpg
I'll definitely pick up a second hide and a smaller water bowl. Would he be fine with just the one hide until my AP cage gets here or should I try to fit a second one in with a smaller water bowl.
What I did yesterday when I got home was I added more moss to the cypress mulch and mixed in some water as well.
I moved the heating source over his hide now and the hot spot on top of it was at 99 degrees and on the substrate was 85, the inside of his hide is at 84 and has extra moss and the cold side is at 69.
What temp would be too high for the hot spot? My thermostat will be here on Saturday and I am so extremely happy that I ordered one, just the thought of having one makes me stress about it less.
If it’s only going to be a couple of weeks before the new cage gets there he should be ok, but you can switch them around if you want.
If the heat tape is getting 99F, I’d reduce it to 88-90F. If that’s the hot spot under the lamp, it should be fine if you drop it a few degrees. My hot spots on the shelves under my RHPs get ~95F, and they’d use even hotter spots in the wild, but you don’t want it quite that high in a smaller enclosure, otherwise they may not be able to choose the hot side without the super hot hot spot, and avoid it. So long as your ambients stay 80-90F, I’d drop the hot spot a bit.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
All I have right now is a 150 watt CHE, how do I get the temperature to drop?
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
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Originally Posted by Jordanpg
All I have right now is a 150 watt CHE, how do I get the temperature to drop?
Either get a lower wattage, move it further away from the enclosure, or get a dimmer and lower it down. Whatever option is most open to you, since you don’t yet have a thermostat (though I think you may have ordered one? Or I misremembered somewhere).
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
I ordered a Herpstat EZ2 which should be here Saturday, i'll pick up a stand for the light in the meantime to help lower temps.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
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Originally Posted by CloudtheBoa
Your boa needs a minimum of one snug-fitting hide on each side, if you have to sacrifice the larger bowl, then so be it. Otherwise, you'll need a larger enclosure.
While otherwise agreeing on what you said, that's where I'm going to disagree. Adult boas (and any large snake for that matter) use so much floor space in a 6x2 or 4x2 that hides do not become feasible after a while. You will literally have two huge hides with a foot of floor space in between them......which is why boa breeders (Jeff Ronne from Boaphile included) do not use hides with any of their adult boas.
This Caulker is a pretty big boy already and is nearing the point where hides simply get in the way. In PVC cages a lot of people just use a sheet of newspaper if their snake seems stressed after removing the hides....but judging where he's located in the tank he seems alright being out in the open.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
He (I think I decided to name him Geddy Lee) was using his hide this morning which was pretty cool to see, ill see how his current hide fits in his new cage when I get it and decide then if I want to squeeze another in.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
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Originally Posted by Jordanpg
He (I think I decided to name him Geddy Lee) was using his hide this morning which was pretty cool to see, ill see how his current hide fits in his new cage when I get it and decide then if I want to squeeze another in.
He will likely continue to blossom over time, and especially when his new setup comes. He's going to love that.
Once acclimated, and properly handled and fed, Boa's are usually really beautiful and chill snakes.
I have a female BCI (Behira) who is a total doll, unless food is involved, or perceived to be involved! I hook train her and she's all good.
I know BCI's, and I see every day with Behira, go through light and dark phases throughout the day. Behira is an ivory ghost, so she can be very light tan to almost dark tan/brownish and her head can be light tan to almost jet black. Do Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa's do the same thing? Is this a Boa thing (potentially excluding rainbows, sand, etc and sticking with BCI and BCC and dwarf species) or only a BCI thing?
Enjoy Geddy Lee!
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Congrats and Welcome Geddy Lee :colbert2:
I love those dwarfs!!! I have a Hogg Island Boa and another on the way. Post some pictures when you can..
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New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinK
While otherwise agreeing on what you said, that's where I'm going to disagree. Adult boas (and any large snake for that matter) use so much floor space in a 6x2 or 4x2 that hides do not become feasible after a while. You will literally have two huge hides with a foot of floor space in between them......which is why boa breeders (Jeff Ronne from Boaphile included) do not use hides with any of their adult boas.
This Caulker is a pretty big boy already and is nearing the point where hides simply get in the way. In PVC cages a lot of people just use a sheet of newspaper if their snake seems stressed after removing the hides....but judging where he's located in the tank he seems alright being out in the open.
I respectfully disagree. I provide hides for both of my large adults, and they have plenty of room left over in their enclosures. The 4’x2’s can fit 2 jumbo RBI hides and a large water dish with room to move around, and I can fit 3-4 large hides in my 6’x2’s. My adults regularly use their hides, and I’ve even noticed better muscle tone in my 7’ female since offering hides. She has to really coil up to fit in her hides.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Only one more day until I get my thermostat Woohoo:D! I replaced the towel over the cage last night with a square piece of cardboard wrapped in aluminum foil to help keep humidity in better.
Im going to try feeding him tonight, I bought a big bin which can be seen under the tank in the pictures I posted a few days ago. Will this tub be big enough for a feeding tub or would I want something bigger. Also the shop I bought from only does live feed, should I switch him over to frozen or let him get used to his new environment first and keep doing live feed until I've had him for a while?
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordanpg
Only one more day until I get my thermostat Woohoo:D! I replaced the towel over the cage last night with a square piece of cardboard wrapped in aluminum foil to help keep humidity in better.
Im going to try feeding him tonight, I bought a big bin which can be seen under the tank in the pictures I posted a few days ago. Will this tub be big enough for a feeding tub or would I want something bigger. Also the shop I bought from only does live feed, should I switch him over to frozen or let him get used to his new environment first and keep doing live feed until I've had him for a while?
You don’t need a feeding tub, just feed him in his enclosure. Some snakes won’t eat if you move them as it’s stressful to be bothered while eating, and you’re more likely to get bit moving a snake mid-feeding response.
Boas usually aren’t particularly picky, so go ahead and try to offer f/t, he should take it. If he doesn’t, then I’d worry about switching him, but if your goal is to feed f/t there’s no use in offering live at all.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Quote:
Originally Posted by CloudtheBoa
I respectfully disagree. I provide hides for both of my large adults, and they have plenty of room left over in their enclosures. The 4’x2’s can fit 2 jumbo RBI hides and a large water dish with room to move around, and I can fit 3-4 large hides in my 6’x2’s. My adults regularly use their hides, and I’ve even noticed better muscle tone in my 7’ female since offering hides. She has to really coil up to fit in her hides.
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Id really like to see a picture of two large hides capable of holding an adult female BCI and a large water dish on top of it in a 4x2....given that the snake itself occupies almost 1/2 of the floorspace of the enclosure by itself. If you count crawling on top of the hides as "room to move around" then I can see where you're coming from. Two large hides (the size of an inverted litter box) and a large dish gives you about 12"x12" of remaining floorspace. RBI jumbos as 20"x14"x6"....use two of them in a 4x2 animal plastics and youve got less than 2'x2' of floorspace.....then subtact your large water dish......
Muscle tone in snakes (like any other animal) is gained through activity...climbing for example. I fail to see how you would be getting muscle tone by using a small hide. There's an old trick where people use a 6ft step ladder for building muscle tone in large boas actually.
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Re: New Caye Caulker Dwarf Boa and would like general information
Where can you buy frozen rats? Can you buy them in stores or can you only get them online?
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