Educate me on spyder robotics thermostats?

So with my next paycheck I am probably going to order my T10 for booplesnoop. I am confused on all the different thermostats. I see the herpstat ez2 with the dials, the herpstat redline and the herpstat intro? What is the difference between them all. I see alarms on some, red lights, blue lights? I'm confused.

no I will say the red one is catching my eye because she will be in my bedroom for a while and red doesn't bother my sleeping. Blue bugs the crap out of me while sleeping. And how bright are the eyes on the EZ?

If if you could help me out I thank you. I have been reading up on all of them and I'm like.....crossing my eyes because I'm confused? I don't want to pay a lot but I also want what is best for boople. Her safety comes first.

Thanks!

I have the EZ, it is awesome. The same steady rock-solid performance, without the extra cost of bells and whistles and imo better looking! Just a solid green light in the eyes during normal performance
.https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...R/IMG_1410.jpg

What is the red light? And how bright are the lights? I need to be able to sleep.

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Originally Posted by Sunnieskys

What is the red light? And how bright is the lights? I need to be able to sleep.

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They aren't too bright, red means the temperate is at least three degrees below the setting but I'll have to check my manual for it.

You can always put a little tape over the lights if they bother you. I can't stand LEDs and use black tape to cover almost anything in my bedroom that I don't want to see. You can use a lighter tape if you want to still see something (like masking tape).

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Originally Posted by Sunnieskys

So with my next paycheck I am probably going to order my T10 for booplesnoop. I am confused on all the different thermostats. I see the herpstat ez2 with the dials, the herpstat redline and the herpstat intro? What is the difference between them all. I see alarms on some, red lights, blue lights? I'm confused.

no I will say the red one is catching my eye because she will be in my bedroom for a while and red doesn't bother my sleeping. Blue bugs the crap out of me while sleeping. And how bright are the eyes on the EZ?

If if you could help me out I thank you. I have been reading up on all of them and I'm like.....crossing my eyes because I'm confused? I don't want to pay a lot but I also want what is best for boople. Her safety comes first.

Thanks!

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For $100 or $200 (Herp 1 or 2) id rather have all the controls myself. They allow me to run RHP's at a certain percent power as the ones above in a stack dont need the Heat like the bottom. Also I like controls that shut everything down when a problem occurs, my house will always be warm enough to survive until i get home to see what happened. Also the Alarm is nice. I set it to let me know what I think is to Hot or Cool so it goes off.


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They talk to you? So when it drops it will go off every time? While I'm sleeping? That gets my anxiety going lol

I think the alarm that CALM mentioned is the High/Low alarm. I've got a Herpstat 2, and it's great.

The alarms only trigger at temps you set them to (and it is definitely not talking; just beeps). So if you set it to heat to 90 degrees, you can set an alarm above and below that number by whatever amount you're comfortable with. For example, if the temperature is set at 90, you can make alarms for 85 and 95 degrees. That way, if the probe is sensing above 95 or below 85, it will start beeping to alert you something is wrong. The threshold temperatures are set independently, so one could be 92 and one could be 87, or whatever you want.

I haven't used it, but I think there is another option you can enable that makes the beeping quit after 30 minutes, even if it is outside your "OK" range (85-95). (I just let mine beep indefinitely because it means I need to do something and fix it.) Not sure exactly how it works.

For me personally, I find that +/- 3 degrees gives enough leeway the fluctuations caused by the increasing/decreasing heat and (for an RHP cage) for the temp changes from opening the cage for short times. I've only had alarms trigger so far when doing bigger cleaning where the RHP cage was opened for an extended period or when I pulled a tub off of the heat tape and had an exposed probe get too cool in the room.

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Originally Posted by pretends2bnormal

I think the alarm that CALM mentioned is the High/Low alarm. I've got a Herpstat 2, and it's great.

The alarms only trigger at temps you set them to (and it is definitely not talking; just beeps). So if you set it to heat to 90 degrees, you can set an alarm above and below that number by whatever amount you're comfortable with. For example, if the temperature is set at 90, you can make alarms for 85 and 95 degrees. That way, if the probe is sensing above 95 or below 85, it will start beeping to alert you something is wrong. The threshold temperatures are set independently, so one could be 92 and one could be 87, or whatever you want.

I haven't used it, but I think there is another option you can enable that makes the beeping quit after 30 minutes, even if it is outside your "OK" range (85-95). (I just let mine beep indefinitely because it means I need to do something and fix it.) Not sure exactly how it works.

For me personally, I find that +/- 3 degrees gives enough leeway the fluctuations caused by the increasing/decreasing heat and (for an RHP cage) for the temp changes from opening the cage for short times. I've only had alarms trigger so far when doing bigger cleaning where the RHP cage was opened for an extended period or when I pulled a tub off of the heat tape and had an exposed probe get too cool in the room.

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^^ yeah what he said hahahahah. Sometimes I look back and cant even understand what I wrote lol... I have mine set to only shut down the channel that has a problem. For example if enclosure 2's RHP runs over 91.5 it only shuts down enclosure 2 while the others enclosure (channel 1 etc..) stay on.
Also as far as a Alarm, if I'm sleeping and forgot to close a slider all the way the alarm will go off as soon as my temp drops below 87.5 from heat loss..
There are some cool things to personalize. You can also choose to have everything shut down if there is a malfunction instead of just the channel with the problem.. Other options including having your lights come on and go off at certain times. Id never get less than a Herpstat 2 myself.


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Ok I'm thinking the red herpstat2.

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Originally Posted by Sunnieskys

Ok I'm thinking the red herpstat2.

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Ive never used the Red..thats only because it cost more for the color and I dont care for Red on a car Dash so I figured the Blue was better for me but colors just a preference, the Heprstats themselves are a great product, you'll love it .

The redlined are on sale :)

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Originally Posted by Sunnieskys

The redlined are on sale :)

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Oooh, and I’m thinking of getting another thermostat in the near-ish future for Moresby’s new enclosure.

We have a Herpstat 4 on the shelves in our bedroom, and I don’t like lots of lights, either. I just draped a washcloth folded in half over the display. Cheap and simple solution for the win!


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I have a herpstat 2 and 4. Personally, I'd go with the model with the most channels if there is any possibility that you will want another enclosure or to run something else on it. Some people have their herpstats controlling lighting, misting, etc. also. My herpstat 4 runs heat tape on 4 enclosures and my herpstat 2 is running 2 racks. The light is pretty bright on them, but mine are not in my bedroom, so that wasn't a factor for me. I like the display on the 4 better as it shows all the info at one time for all the channels (temp set, % power, current temp) whereas the herpstat 2 screen is smaller and only shows some of that info on the main screen.

I probably have another 2 in my future (or 4-6) as I will be adding another cage soon and will need another channel.

If you have any giftcards for Amazon laying around, the bean farm sells them on Amazon. One year, I asked for GCs to amazon for Christmas and then used them all together to help pay for my herpstat 4. :)

If you have more than one heat source you need a herpstat 2 or above or herpstat ez2. One heat source and you can get away with a herpstat ez.

Aside from hardware safety relays, herpstat 1 and above have hardware clocks that keep time after a power outage. This is important if you do nighttime drops and lose power. The non hardware clock ones need time reset before they will do nightime drops if you lose power.

Herpstat intro and intro plus only do dimming. All other lines do dimming or pulse proportional

EZ line does not offer night drop functionality which is really only important in some arboreal species but is pointless for BPs.

Anything you do get do the upgrade to metal probes they are so much better and only $1 more per probe.

If you plan on upgrading more cages or getting more snakes in the future, I would splurge now and get a herpstat 4 or 6 for growth. I regret not doing that from the start.

The blue lights are pretty vivid. I prefer blue and my caging are in a separate room so it doesn't bother me. Here's an old photo, you can see the herpstat at the top, it's fairly bright.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/SW43exD.jpg

I will have an rhp and a uth. They are having a 2 for less than getting them separately as well for their red lines. So one herp2 is 180 and two is 320 or something. The blue will be to bright and the red is on sale. Thank you for laying out the specs.

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Originally Posted by Prognathodon

Oooh, and I’m thinking of getting another thermostat in the near-ish future for Moresby’s new enclosure.

We have a Herpstat 4 on the shelves in our bedroom, and I don’t like lots of lights, either. I just draped a washcloth folded in half over the display. Cheap and simple solution for the win!


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They have a Display dimmer +&- for light brightness. I don't like putting things over them because they get warm. I can feel the heat coming ooff the vents on them.


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I have had all the Herpstats from 1 up to 6 except the 4. Have also had Redline 1 and 2. Unless you really like the red color, just save your cash. The only thing it offers is a red light through a red translucent case which you can turn on or off. You can also set the light to flash when a temp threshhold has been crossed. So you can could have a visual and audible alarm. I ended up selling everything except my Redline 1 and just buying 2 Herpstat 6. Go with the biggest imo as you never know when you will need the extra and you can always just disable the channel if not in use.

If on a budget, i say the minimum should be a Herpstat 1 as that is the lowest one that comes with a mechanical relay safety as well as the other safeties. Worth it imo as you are buying these things to safeguard against a runaway heat source.

Yeah when money is really tight :( it may be hard to justify buying the best. But once you ride out that hardship it is sooo worth it. Then you feel really good, because you are worries are over about possible temperature issues. :oops:

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Originally Posted by SDA

Anything you do get do the upgrade to metal probes they are so much better and only $1 more per probe.

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Can I ask the significance of the metal probes? Is it worth buying afterward, as an upgrade to the standard ones I'm already using?

I will only have two heat sources per cage. A rhp and uth. I'm only getting one cage as of now for booplesnoop. So do I really need a 4 or 6?

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Originally Posted by Charles8088

Can I ask the significance of the metal probes? Is it worth buying afterward, as an upgrade to the standard ones I'm already using?

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I just use the regular plastic/rubber probes and they work fine.

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Originally Posted by Sunnieskys

I will only have two heat sources per cage. A rhp and uth. I'm only getting one cage as of now for booplesnoop. So do I really need a 4 or 6?

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Well do you think you might possibly get more snakes in the future? If the answer is an absolute no, then no you dont need a Herpstat 4 or 6. If it is possibly, then i would say just spend the cash now and be done with it. Wish I had done it that way to begin with. I sold off 2 Herpstat 1 and 2 Herpstat 2. The cash i lost being it is used and an electronic item, i could have probably have bought half a 3rd Herpstat 6 lol. But when i bought all my Herpstats 1 and 2, they didnt have the 6 out yet.

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

Well do you think you might possibly get more snakes in the future? If the answer is an absolute no, then no you dont need a Herpstat 4 or 6. If it is possibly, then i would say just spend the cash now and be done with it. Wish I had done it that way to begin with. I sold off 2 Herpstat 1 and 2 Herpstat 2. The cash i lost being it is used and an electronic item, i could have probably have bought half a 3rd Herpstat 6 lol. But when i bought all my Herpstats 1 and 2, they didnt have the 6 out yet.

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Mu son has odyn and I want to brin fb home the Florida king I named omega.

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I would go digital not dial, it's matter of precision to me.

Blue or Red line it's all the same it's about the look.

For your use either the intro plus or herpstat 1, the reason I did not say Intro or 1 Basic is that those are missing some safety feature that are worth it.

It's a solid brand worth every penny I have some that are 12 years old now and still working great (only reason I have been replacing them is that I want them all to look the same older models were very different.)

I am old school and I like one T-stat per caging or rack system.

Just wondering since we are on topic. Anyone know the general life span of herpstat? Love mine to bits and I'm sure it will last a good 10+ years but i'm wondering at what point in time would I have to or should have to worry about a replacement or it reaching it's end days?

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Originally Posted by Charles8088

Can I ask the significance of the metal probes? Is it worth buying afterward, as an upgrade to the standard ones I'm already using?

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From their site it says "These new steel tipped probes are epoxy sealed to increase water resistance. The steel tip also transfers temperature change faster which can be beneficial in setups where the probe is monitoring air temp like incubators"