Herpstat Power Output % (have you played with this)

Im wondering if anyone has lowered the power % on a Herpstat to reach your temps without your heat source running wide open. When my heat source is running on 100% it reaches 200° then once its at Target Temp Herpstats (on proportional function) lower the power percent to maintain that temp.. What if i lower the Herpstat to 70-80% power output, in my mind that would get to the target temp slower however not raise the Heat Source temp itself up so high, say 150* instead of 200*? Does this sound right to you Herpstat owners or would this be the same as just running a lower wattage Heat Source?
Im installing some new Panels and fixing up a Enclosure thats no longer in use so Im playing around with ideas. The reason behind it, I'm thinking about putting my T12's ontop of the 8' enclosure eventually and im trying to lower the heat transfer temps going up to the Floor above by running the element at a lower Output below.
Creating a Hot Spot above of 90 is fine which is what my T12 RHP's do at 100% but the Large RHP for the 8' enclosure is twice the Power making the floor above over 100.

(I already use 1" foam insulation and 4'x30"steel sheets so not looking for any ideas except on the Herpstat function I mentioned). Thanks peeps.


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Always feels like Christmas when you were 12 yrs old when you get goodies in the mail [emoji12] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6042647ba6.jpg


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I keep mine at 100%/default but I would guess if you have an oversized RHP that is more than needed for the enclosure, capping the power outage (percent power) would be a good way to keep it restricted from running at full power and possibly getting the surface temp too hot on the RHP surface?

Neither of my RHPs ever got above 140 degrees at the surface so I don't worry all that much. If your larger one is hitting surface temps of 200 maybe play with the restriction setting and see if you can still get temps you want at a capped power?

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Originally Posted by SDA

I keep mine at 100%/default but I would guess if you have an oversized RHP that is more than needed for the enclosure, capping the power outage (percent power) would be a good way to keep it restricted from running at full power and possibly getting the surface temp too hot on the RHP surface?

Neither of my RHPs ever got above 140 degrees at the surface so I don't worry all that much. If your larger one is hitting surface temps of 200 maybe play with the restriction setting and see if you can still get temps you want at a capped power?

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Yup I wanted to make sure how im thinking makes sense hahahaha. Sometimes if you go over something to much your Logical thinking goes out the window like smoke.. Lol. Ive had it going for a hour now and its staying steady at 155-160 at 80%. Its a 150 watt panel and its going in the 8' enclosure so im trying to keep the temp down so it created a good Hot Spot above.. Right now the hotspot in the enclose above is 92.3...(with 1" foam board and a 2'x4' piece of stainless steel between). Using the laser I'm getting 89-92 so i think this is safe. I'll run it 24hrs to make sure.


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I’ve wondered the same the Calm. But I am electronically challenged. I’m lucky that I was able to get my heat dialed in as it is. :)

If I had to do heat drops or alarms I would be “up creek....”

I run my PH125 at 65% power so it doesn't get the hotspot too hot while the cool side gets up to temp. Seems to provide a more consistent and gentler heat imo


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Originally Posted by jmcrook

I run my PH125 at 65% power so it doesn't get the hotspot too hot while the cool side gets up to temp. Seems to provide a more consistent and gentler heat imo


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Thats exactly what this Post is about, thank you!! Right now Ive changed Percent a couple times but I was thinking about it all wrong. The Pro Panels no matter what the Wattage only heat up so much to the touch to protect the animal and I was running a 88watt, 110 watt & 150 watt all on my table trying to test them with a Laser hahahaha. Spent 1/2 the day pissed that they were all 188-198 Degrees. I called Bob to ask him what his advice was and he explained the wattage has to do with the surface Temp of the Panel itself but instead with BTU per Sq inch a RHP outs out. Well make a long story short running the PH125 at 80% is warming the cool side perfect without boiling the Hot Side. This is one of the reasons I love Herpstat. Being able to control all these things really makes a difference. Tomorrow I will clean this mess up I've made in the room and get everything back against the walls hahahaha[emoji86][emoji86][emoji85][emoji85]


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Originally Posted by CALM Pythons

Thats exactly what this Post is about, thank you!! Right now Ive changed Percent a couple times but I was thinking about it all wrong. The Pro Panels no matter what the Wattage only heat up so much to the touch to protect the animal and I was running a 88watt, 110 watt & 150 watt all on my table trying to test them with a Laser hahahaha. Spent 1/2 the day pissed that they were all 188-198 Degrees. I called Bob to ask him what his advice was and he explained the wattage has to do with the surface Temp of the Panel itself but instead with BTU per Sq inch a RHP outs out. Well make a long story short running the PH125 at 80% is warming the cool side perfect without boiling the Hot Side. This is one of the reasons I love Herpstat. Being able to control all these things really makes a difference. Tomorrow I will clean this mess up I've made in the room and get everything back against the walls hahahaha[emoji86][emoji86][emoji85][emoji85]


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Typo - " I called Bob to ask him what his advice was and he explained the wattage DOESN NOT HAVE TO DO with the surface Temp of the Panel itself but instead with BTU per Sq inch the RHP PUTS out.


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Originally Posted by Reinz

I’ve wondered the same the Calm. But I am electronically challenged. I’m lucky that I was able to get my heat dialed in as it is. :)

If I had to do heat drops or alarms I would be “up creek....”

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Hey Reinz, by the way did you notice its me "Mr Sully" (Chris) .. Just as i was coming back after my work season you were MIA.
I had the Username changed since. The last time I talked to you you were waiting on AP enclosures and Surgery. Hows the Healing?


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Just incase anyone is interested. I caught some lip from a couple people about my "Bigger is Better" theory on RHP panels. With that said let me say that if you do not run a Top of the Line Tstat then they are right and I never suggested this idea was for everybody. I Only suggested this was best for me because I control the Power OutPut on my Herpstats if its to much for the enclosure.
After 24 hrs, my 150 Watt, RHP is running 1/2 the time the 88 Watt panel was. This 150 watt panel is the same Temp to the touch, but more BTU's per Sq inch. With all that said it has lowered the Hotspot temp in the enclosure above by not running wide open 24/7 at 100% power to reach the target temp like the 88watt was. It adjusts itself from 65%-90% and then shuts off. It stayed off during the day for up to 8 min (0%) and came back on at about 65% to keep things regulated then shut back down.
At 3am when the house was 62 the HotSide temp stayed perfect and the cool side never went below 78.7. It still [shut] down but not as long as during the day.
If you have a proportional Tstat and a Larger enclosure (bigger than T10's up like T12's T25) then I suggest the larger RHP's. I think it runs less & if you have Stacks it doesnt heat up the other enclosures to much like the smaller RHP's did running Wide open 24/7.
I was able to remove the insulation barrier between the enclosures because the larger RHP isnt running at 180 to get to the target temps and in return heating the crap out of the floors above... Instead the Hot Spot above had measured 90.2-91.5 in the last 24hrs without the 2 pieces if 1/2" insulation board.. Pretty Cool. Im very happy.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by CALM Pythons

Hey Reinz, by the way did you notice its me "Mr Sully" (Chris) .. Just as i was coming back after my work season you were MIA.
I had the Username changed since. The last time I talked to you you were waiting on AP enclosures and Surgery. Hows the Healing?


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I was confused about your identity at first. Then I saw the pic in your signature and figured it out.

Healing is coming along slowly since we last talked, thank you. I’m still waiting on the AP’s, surprise, surprise. :rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by Reinz

I was confused about your identity at first. Then I saw the pic in your signature and figured it out.

Healing is coming along slowly since we last talked, thank you. I’m still waiting on the AP’s, surprise, surprise. :rolleyes:

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I guess we learned good things come to those who wait [emoji1360][emoji1360]


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by CALM Pythons

Just incase anyone is interested. I caught some lip from a couple people about my "Bigger is Better" theory on RHP panels. With that said let me say that if you do not run a Top of the Line Tstat then they are right and I never suggested this idea was for everybody. I Only suggested this was best for me because I control the Power OutPut on my Herpstats if its to much for the enclosure.
After 24 hrs, my 150 Watt, RHP is running 1/2 the time the 88 Watt panel was. This 150 watt panel is the same Temp to the touch, but more BTU's per Sq inch. With all that said it has lowered the Hotspot temp in the enclosure above by not running wide open 24/7 at 100% power to reach the target temp like the 88watt was. It adjusts itself from 65%-90% and then shuts off. It stayed off during the day for up to 8 min (0%) and came back on at about 65% to keep things regulated then shut back down.
At 3am when the house was 62 the HotSide temp stayed perfect and the cool side never went below 78.7. It still [shut] down but not as long as during the day.
If you have a proportional Tstat and a Larger enclosure (bigger than T10's up like T12's T25) then I suggest the larger RHP's. I think it runs less & if you have Stacks it doesnt heat up the other enclosures to much like the smaller RHP's did running Wide open 24/7.
I was able to remove the insulation barrier between the enclosures because the larger RHP isnt running at 180 to get to the target temps and in return heating the crap out of the floors above... Instead the Hot Spot above had measured 90.2-91.5 in the last 24hrs without the 2 pieces if 1/2" insulation board.. Pretty Cool. Im very happy.


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Your bigger theory makes sense to me. Here’s why;
when I was running tanks and heat bulbs for many years, a typical bulb running 24/7 would last one month, maybe three, and if all of the stars and planets were aligned, I’d get six months.

Since I was running 5-6 tanks, I stocked up on bulbs, especially since weather changes would require changing bulbs. I ended up having more bulbs on hand than most pet stores!

Then I discovered the table top dimmer. I found that if used the highest wattage bulbs dimmed down to 30-50% they lasted indefinitely. I never had a burnt out bulb for well over year or year and a half before I switched to PVC enclosures. It would have been interesting to see just how long those bulbs would have lasted.

Now let’s see [emoji57], what am I going to do with all of these bulbs now?


Old pics before I switched over to PVC
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...a9902e4884.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...224e84b225.jpg

Yeah in the end Id rather have more than I need and just tone it down a little than struggle when the Central Air comes on or we get -20 temps at night like we had for almost a week in January. Yes you can cover the enclosures with a Blanket, thats worked really good.. But I dont like to do that to a display.. I love seeing how nice it looks whenever I walk bye them...
Now as far as those Bulbs Reinz, you can never have to many lol. I just changed 8 in the house here and now need more to have on hand. Heck each Fixture these days has 2-4 bulbs.
So how many bulbs are you selling and a price to Ship to NY hahahhhhhahaha


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Sorry if I was not clear, those are the red color and white color HEAT bulbs. Not regular house bulbs.

I feel ya, when the kids were living here as well as the ex, I was changing bulbs once or twice a week. Sure gets old AND expensive.

One more thing, I bought a bunch of bulbs from the Blind folks that have a 5 year guarantee. A few barely made a year. But then I have some going on 20 years now! I reckon I got my money’s worth. :)

On top of what Jacob said, i think running at a lower power would also keep the heat source on longer to function almost like a basking set up vs running full power and power heating to the set temp and then turning off with no heat. I might be wrong but that is how i figure it. You can also just email Dion at Spyder Robotics and I'm sure he would explain it. With all that said, i just run mine at 100%.....but then again i only use flexwatt for everyone except Pat. And i have his CHE set to 84F anyways as a GTP doesnt need that hot of temps. If he didnt use the CHE after eating, i probably just wouldnt use any heat as the room stays around 77-80F anyways.

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

On top of what Jacob said, i think running at a lower power would also keep the heat source on longer to function almost like a basking set up vs running full power and power heating to the set temp and then turning off with no heat. I might be wrong but that is how i figure it. You can also just email Dion at Spyder Robotics and I'm sure he would explain it. With all that said, i just run mine at 100%.....but then again i only use flexwatt for everyone except Pat. And i have his CHE set to 84F anyways as a GTP doesnt need that hot of temps. If he didnt use the CHE after eating, i probably just wouldnt use any heat as the room stays around 77-80F anyways.

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Im having fun trying all kinds of things Sauzo. Last night I lowered the Power and it did run continuously but at a Lower (to touch/Lasered) Temp. Both ways are actually really valuable depending on the Species and or your Set-up style. (single/stacks etc..)
So from this point on I'll stick with larger RHP's and the key I think to all of this is a Quality TSTAT that allows you all this control like your output power. [emoji1360][emoji1362][emoji216]


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