Enclosure for Boa

I was wondering if you guys could tell me if my boa's enclosure looks good? I was having problems with the humidity but after I put a towel on half of the screen top it seems to be helping to keep its around 60-70. The cool side is like 70 and the middle is like 75ish and the warm side is like 80. but depending on if the substrate it moved (so part of the glass is exposed) its like 90 next to the water bowl. (upper left hand corner). It is a 20 gallon long tank. I wanted to put a branch in there for him but I haven't found any good ones at the pet stores. Thanks in advance :D

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psnnhufit5.jpg

60 to 70% humidity is ok. Even if it drops below 60% won’t harm the snake. When shedding the humidity should be no less than 70%. You said the warm side is 80 and then you said well it’s like 90. Well, if he has a warm side of 90 would be fine. The warm side should be no less than 86-88. And be prepared to upgrade your enclosure to a bigger one once the snake gets bigger

[QUOTE=svtvenom;2589750]I was wondering if you guys could tell me if my boa's enclosure looks good? I was having problems with the humidity but after I put a towel on half of the screen top it seems to be helping to keep its around 60-70. The cool side is like 70 and the middle is like 75ish and the warm side is like 80. but depending on if the substrate it moved (so part of the glass is exposed) its like 90 next to the water bowl. (upper left hand corner). It is a 20 gallon long tank. I wanted to put a branch in there for him but I haven't found any good ones at the pet stores. Thanks in advance :D



A few things.

1. 70F is way too low. Cool spot should be 77-80F. Ambient temps should be in that range as well. Hot spot should be 87-89F or so, but where the snake is. Not clear to me where you are measuring the temp in your description.

2. Glass tanks suck for humidity. You will want to consider, for many reasons, a larger, more enclosed tank for your Boa.

Now some questions.

What kind of Boa? I imagine it's a BCI as these are more common, especially with morphs, but I am no expert just by looking.

Male of female?

I ask because that will help you determine the adult size and what size tank you will ultimately need.

Many people say that you should keep them in small/appropriate sized enclosures until they need a bigger one. This can be costly and annoying. From me experience speaking with breeders, and working with different species (corns, BP's, BCI's), they all do fine as long as they feel secure. My 1 1/2 year old female BCI, Behira, is thriving in her adult/life enclosure - a 6X2X1' Boaphile. I am able to maintain proper humidity well, temps and gradients are excellent, and she is calm and eats like a champ. However, I have many hides in there for her. So she has a hide no matter what temp she wants to be at.

Anyway, I digressed.

Get your temps up. 60-70% humidity is fine, but you will be working at it in a glass tank for a while. Definitely consider upgrading to a bigger enclosure that is better suited for a BCI when possible.

Again:

Hot spot/side: 87-89F (average - a few degrees cooler or hotter in a given "spot" is ok - heat pads, flexwatt/heat tape, etc, can have a small gradient) where the snake is - at his/her body. And that area needs to be large enough for the whole snake to be at that temp.

Cool Spot: 77-80F.

Ambient temp: 78-82F.

I've seen you posting before and know you want the best for your Boa.

Keep asking questions and working at it. You should get there and have a happy Boa for a long time.

There are some other Boa guys on here that can chime in as well. Please point anything I missed.

Good luck!

I am using a Flukers 11x11 UTH. I am using a temp gun, I just double checked the temps and the cold side seems to be 74 and the warm side is about 79-85. It goes up to 90-95 if he moves the substrate around and there isn't much covering the glass.

I will be getting a bigger and better enclosure within this year. I'm pretty sure he is a BI, he's male and a year old right now. He is 37 inches. I've only had him a week and I fed him a small rat, the seller told me to feed him once a week but then people on this forum told me to feed every 2 weeks, so I will be doing that from now. What is the best enclosure to buy for when he an adult? I don't want to build anything myself haha.

I'm just worried that I'm going to wake up one morning and he will be dead. (Happened to my Ball Python I had when I was young)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

I am using a Flukers 11x11 UTH. I am using a temp gun, I just double checked the temps and the cold side seems to be 74 and the warm side is about 79-85. It goes up to 90-95 if he moves the substrate around and there isn't much covering the glass.

I will be getting a bigger and better enclosure within this year. I'm pretty sure he is a BI, he's male and a year old right now. He is 37 inches. I've only had him a week and I fed him a small rat, the seller told me to feed him once a week but then people on this forum told me to feed every 2 weeks, so I will be doing that from now. What is the best enclosure to buy for when he an adult? I don't want to build anything myself haha.

I'm just worried that I'm going to wake up one morning and he will be dead. (Happened to my Ball Python I had when I was young)

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If you are feeding him small rats, you can feed him every week or 10 days at this young age. If you are feeding him medium rats then every two weeks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

I am using a Flukers 11x11 UTH. I am using a temp gun, I just double checked the temps and the cold side seems to be 74 and the warm side is about 79-85. It goes up to 90-95 if he moves the substrate around and there isn't much covering the glass.

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Do you have a thermostat regulating your UTH? A UTH will get hot enough to burn your snake if it runs unregulated.

Also those log hides mold quickly in high humidity environments. Get some plastic ones from somewhere like Reptile Basics.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

I was wondering if you guys could tell me if my boa's enclosure looks good? I was having problems with the humidity but after I put a towel on half of the screen top it seems to be helping to keep its around 60-70. The cool side is like 70 and the middle is like 75ish and the warm side is like 80. but depending on if the substrate it moved (so part of the glass is exposed) its like 90 next to the water bowl. (upper left hand corner). It is a 20 gallon long tank. I wanted to put a branch in there for him but I haven't found any good ones at the pet stores. Thanks in advance :D

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psnnhufit5.jpg

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First off, 70F on the cool side is too cool. The coldest it should be is 75F and preferably 77-79F. Hot side should be 86-88F tops. I keep all my boas with a full cage temp of 77-79F and a hot spot with flexwatt of 86-88F. You can do 90F but dont expect to see your boa on the heat source much if ever. If you are using heat tape, you dont want anything deeper than 1/2 at most and you want to take the reading from the glass, not the top of the substrate. As for hides. I would stick to simple black plastic hides. They are easy to clean and cheap. I use these in various sizes. http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes

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Originally Posted by Dutti

60 to 70% humidity is ok. Even if it drops below 60% won’t harm the snake. When shedding the humidity should be no less than 70%. You said the warm side is 80 and then you said well it’s like 90. Well, if he has a warm side of 90 would be fine. The warm side should be no less than 86-88. And be prepared to upgrade your enclosure to a bigger one once the snake gets bigger

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60% humidity wont harm the snake for a while but long term, yes it will. Boas come from a place with 70-100% humidity. You are doing the snake a disservice by subjecting it to lower than recommended humidity. As for shedding, you dont need to spike squat. I never spike during shedding and never had a bad shed. I keep my humidity on average of 70%. It does drop to 65% sometimes and i spike it to 85-90%. The boas LOVE when i use my pump mister in their cages. They all come out and are active for hours.

Again, temps should be 86-88F tops, not no less. Contrary to what some people think, snakes dont need to be kept cooking hot 24/7. Most snakes actually like it a little cooler and cooler is less dangerous to them than too hot. Overheating is a very common problem and a lot of people think IBD when in fact, they kept their snake too hot.

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Originally Posted by Dutti

If you are feeding him small rats, you can feed him every week or 10 days at this young age. If you are feeding him medium rats then every two weeks.

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If he is on small rats, no way in heck should he be fed every week. The only time a boa should be fed every week is when they are under a year old and even there, some people disagree and say every 10 days. A boa on small rats should be fed every 2 weeks. Mediums every 3 weeks and larges every 4 weeks. Once on jumbos or rabbits, then you go to every 4-6 weeks. Rabbits are a lean dense meat so they pack more punch so you go longer inbetween feedings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

I am using a Flukers 11x11 UTH. I am using a temp gun, I just double checked the temps and the cold side seems to be 74 and the warm side is about 79-85. It goes up to 90-95 if he moves the substrate around and there isn't much covering the glass.

I will be getting a bigger and better enclosure within this year. I'm pretty sure he is a BI, he's male and a year old right now. He is 37 inches. I've only had him a week and I fed him a small rat, the seller told me to feed him once a week but then people on this forum told me to feed every 2 weeks, so I will be doing that from now. What is the best enclosure to buy for when he an adult? I don't want to build anything myself haha.

I'm just worried that I'm going to wake up one morning and he will be dead. (Happened to my Ball Python I had when I was young)

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A male BI likely won't get over 6FT in length. You can probably get away with a 4X2' enclosure. My female will likely get 6-8FT and I have a 6X2' for her. You could also do a 5X2' or 6X2' etc. All depends on space and cost requirements.

A lot of people here like Animal Plastics, and a few other companies (there are a lot of cage forums here). I have Boaphile Plastics cages, made by Jeff Ronne, and I love them.

The main objective should be something that holds humidity well (doesn't have a open top), holds heat well, and has heating elements built in, or easy to install.

ALL YOU HEATING DEVICES SHOULD BE RUN BY THERMOSTAT - especially in these bigger tanks that are well enclosed. As Sauzo said, too hot is not good either.

Regarding waking up one morning and finding a dead snake. Not likely, IF you follow proper husbandry and feeding requirements.

Again, keep asking questions, reading the forum, and reading what you can on Boa's. Vin Russo has a great book on Boa's. It's pretty much a must read.

ALSO - watch your guy. See how he looks, is growing, eating, pooping, interacts with you and his environment, etc. You seem very aware of him and want to meet his needs. That's a great. Use your head and acquire knowledge and everything should be okay.

Good luck!

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Originally Posted by dakski

A male BI likely won't get over 6FT in length. You can probably get away with a 4X2' enclosure. My female will likely get 6-8FT and I have a 6X2' for her. You could also do a 5X2' or 6X2' etc. All depends on space and cost requirements.

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I would say this, a captive male BCI that is being fed mice for the first two years of his life won,t likely get over 6FT. For a wild male BCI that has the freedom to eat what he wants, its very likely that he will reach 8 or 9, even 10 feet

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Originally Posted by Dutti

I would say this, a captive male BCI that is being fed mice for the first two years of his life won,t likely get over 6FT. For a wild male BCI that has the freedom to eat what he wants, its very likely that he will reach 8 or 9, even 10 feet

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Actually, its opposite. Snakes usually grow larger in captivity because they are fed like clockwork more food than needed and live in optimal conditions with no need to exercise or actually 'hunt' for food. In the wild, boas can and do go months without food. They need to first find it and then actually catch it. Not to mention in the winter there, they go 3+ months with no food at all. This is why boas are opportunistic feeders and dont pass up meals unless they have been stuffed. They also arent fed the optimum size food either. In the wild, they cant be picky. So they might get lucky and get a nice big dinner or they might end up only catching a snack.

And i have never seen a 10 foot BCi ever. i have seen 8 foot ones but those are usually about 10-15 years old if properly fed. If over fed, they are usually dead within 5 years. Now BCC do get large, especially Peruvians which are the largest BCC and do get to 10 feet. But those snakes are very old. Rule of thumb i was told was that if you properly feed your boa, you can expect about 12 inches per year of growth for the first 3-4 years. Then it slows down dramatically.

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

Actually, its opposite. Snakes usually grow larger in captivity because they are fed like clockwork more food than needed and live in optimal conditions with no need to exercise or actually 'hunt' for food. In the wild, boas can and do go months without food. They need to first find it and then actually catch it. Not to mention in the winter there, they go 3+ months with no food at all. This is why boas are opportunistic feeders and dont pass up meals unless they have been stuffed. They also arent fed the optimum size food either. In the wild, they cant be picky. So they might get lucky and get a nice big dinner or they might end up only catching a snack.

And i have never seen a 10 foot BCi ever. i have seen 8 foot ones but those are usually about 10-15 years old if properly fed. If over fed, they are usually dead within 5 years. Now BCC do get large, especially Peruvians which are the largest BCC and do get to 10 feet. But those snakes are very old. Rule of thumb i was told was that if you properly feed your boa, you can expect about 12 inches per year of growth for the first 3-4 years. Then it slows down dramatically.

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You have never seen a 10 foot BCI ever? You just saw 8 foot ones? Here is a male BCI over 10 foot for sure, and most probably 12 foot

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Px7pxz_T0_s

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Originally Posted by Dutti

You have never seen a 10 foot BCI ever? You just saw 8 foot ones? Here is a male BCI over 10 foot for sure, and most probably 12 foot

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Px7pxz_T0_s

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Dutti, that's just a perspective trick. I seriously doubt it's 10 feet long.

Unless it is put next to a tape measure, i call BS on 10 ft. I have seen too many people claim their boas are 8 or 9 or 10 ft and then when you put them next to a tape measure, they magically shrink to become a 7 ft boa. A 10 foot is a HUGE snake. And this is coming from Youtube which i find questionable to start with lol. Anything on the internet i take with a grain of salt unless the person in question is reputable or i trust them. Some Joe Blow, no thanks. Heck i could claim my 6.5ft female BCI is 10 feet and manipulate a camera in a way to make it look big and not give a tape measure or reference to gauge it by. But anyways, like i said, i have seen 8 feet that i would believe. I have seen claims of 10 feet though from people on FB and stuff but most of the knowledgeable boa guys on the boa FB pages pretty much shoot holes in the claims.

But hey, whatever Dutti, you are more than welcome to believe stuff you read on the internet from any Joe Blow and then show it to other people :)

Whats the best UTH I can get that comes with a thermostat? I will order a plastic hide when I can. Also sometimes when I hold him, his scales will kind of catch on to my clothes or I can feel them on my skin almost as if they are being pulled up, is that normal?

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

Whats the best UTH I can get that comes with a thermostat? I will order a plastic hide when I can. Also sometimes when I hold him, his scales will kind of catch on to my clothes or I can feel them on my skin almost as if they are being pulled up, is that normal?

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I am not sure what the best UTH with thermostat is. I imagine most thermostats would work with most UTH's, assuming wattage is compatible and probe is placed correctly. However, I have limited experience here.

Regarding the scale issue, or non issue, I have a few thoughts, but a picture of the scales would probably help here. To be clear, the scales are not coming off, right?

1. Is he going into shed? That might help explain what you are feeling.

2. If humidity and hydration are not correct, that might explain what you are feeling.

3. EVERYTHING COULD BE FINE. He is your first Boa, correct? They feel different than BP's, Corn snakes, etc. They tend to be softer and the skin a little looser/flexible, IMO.

Just my initial thoughts/two cents.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

Whats the best UTH I can get that comes with a thermostat? I will order a plastic hide when I can. Also sometimes when I hold him, his scales will kind of catch on to my clothes or I can feel them on my skin almost as if they are being pulled up, is that normal?

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You order them separately. As for a t-stat, my vote goes to Herpstats by Spyder Robotics. I have used them for years and never had a problem. Even my 5 years old Herpstat 1 worked fine when i sold it when i upgraded to 2 Herpstat 6.

As for a UTH, go with any of the non stick heat tapes, like Flexwatt or THG. You can also get pre wired stuff like Flukers or Ultratherm. Any of them will work well. For Flexwatt and THG, i say go through Reptile Basics as Rich will wire it for you if you buy the wire kit. For Ultratherm, i say go with Bean Farm. I live by them and go out there a lot to pick up stuff and they are awesome to deal with. They wont wire Flexwatt though as Doug isnt a certified electrician and that opens liability issues but you can wire it yourself with a pair of channel locks.

As for the scales 'lifting' when you hold him, he might be a bit dry. Try misting the substrate and keeping his humidity at minimum 65%. That happens to my boas if i space out and let their cages dry out in the winter. And yes, you can mist aspen and it wont mold.

Ok great, I will order a better UTH and thermostat tonight. I will pay more attention when I hold him tonight. It feels like the edge of his scale gets caught when he starts moving backwards or if I have to pick him up off of my arm. I don't think he's going into shed, his eyes aren't blue or anything. For misting, do you guys have to mist your cages daily? I'm also scared of it being too humid and he gets a RI.

I didn't realize the were sold separately.

I still don't completely understand how the thermostat and UTH heater work together. Does the UTH get plugged into the thermostat? Sorry for all the questions. :D

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

Ok great, I will order a better UTH and thermostat tonight. I will pay more attention when I hold him tonight. It feels like the edge of his scale gets caught when he starts moving backwards or if I have to pick him up off of my arm. I don't think he's going into shed, his eyes aren't blue or anything. For misting, do you guys have to mist your cages daily? I'm also scared of it being too humid and he gets a RI.

I didn't realize the were sold separately.

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Moving backwards and occasionally getting a scale caught can happen. Again, make sure he is hydrated and humidity is good.

It gets very dry in the room/finished basement where I keep my snakes. Even though I have a good enclosure (Boaphile 6X2X1'), and temps maintain, humidity can drop to about 50%. In that case, I add a second water bowl and that seems to rectify the problem. If I can't maintain around 60% - i.e. it's 20% humidity in the room (and I should note that I use paper substrate for ease of cleaning), I do mist WITH WARM WATER up to 1X a day. Usually every couple of days works fine. Emphasis on warm water. Cold tap water can shock the tank temps and your boa.

Remember you want humidity around 55-65% (more on the top end) for Boa's, but if it drops to 50% for a few days or goes to 75% (i.e. when he is going to shed) for a bit, it's not going to be detrimental. You want to have the average be optimal, but small gyrations are going to happen. Obviously 20% for a few days could be bad, but 50% would be ok.

Remember, they are not incredibly sensitive. It's not like taking a fish out of water if the humidity drops or rise temporarily. I'll have my boa out for a 1/2 hour watching TV with me on the couch at 70F and 25% humidity and she is fine. If I have to take her to the Vet, or when animals are shipped, temps and humidity are not optimal.

GOOD you are being careful and want to do what is right for your little guy. However, don't make yourself crazy once things are dialed in. Until you have a proper tank and thermostat, etc. you may have to make adjustments (I even adjust my tanks when the room gets a few degrees warmer or more humid in the summer) to keep things optimal. However, if dialed in, these should be minor adjustments (a degree or two, 5% humidity up or down) and nothing should be so out of whack as to hurt your snake. Being meticulous and cautious is good. Being anxious and making yourself crazy is exhausting and can lead to overreactions instead of gentle adjustments.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

Ok great, I will order a better UTH and thermostat tonight. I will pay more attention when I hold him tonight. It feels like the edge of his scale gets caught when he starts moving backwards or if I have to pick him up off of my arm. I don't think he's going into shed, his eyes aren't blue or anything. For misting, do you guys have to mist your cages daily? I'm also scared of it being too humid and he gets a RI.

I didn't realize the were sold separately.

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I usually mist twice a week in the winter. I use a pump sprayer and just mist the walls, floor and hides and snakes until it is wet but not like a swamp. I wouldnt mist daily. You want it damp here and there but not constantly wet.

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

I still don't completely understand how the thermostat and UTH heater work together. Does the UTH get plugged into the thermostat? Sorry for all the questions. :D

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The UTH will plug into the t-stat and the t-stat plugs into the wall. The t-stat basically limits power to the UTH to the temp you set it at via a temperature probe that is on the t-stat that you set into position.

Is the probe placed inside the enclosure?

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

Is the probe placed inside the enclosure?

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hi! here's a diagram :) i hope this helps!

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...9edbeefb34.jpg

Thank you that helps alot! Is it ok to use a temp gun instead of a thermometer? Is the VE-300 a good one to buy?

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

Thank you that helps alot! Is it ok to use a temp gun instead of a thermometer? Is the VE-300 a good one to buy?

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yes, and yes. be sure to check periodically with the temp gun. [emoji3]

So I’m holding him now and it seems his scales are doing it more. It feels like they’re dry should I soak him in warm water in the tub?

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

So I’m holding him now and it seems his scales are doing it more. It feels like they’re dry should I soak him in warm water in the tub?

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I wouldn't soak him. I do let mine swim every couple weeks but they enjoy it for 5 min then come out on there own when ready... Snakes scales get dry and even raise a bit towards shed time as the skin gets wrinkly.

Okay I panicked and put him in tub with a little lukewarm water and he’s just staying in the same spot. Do you think he’s enjoying it? He’s was trying to get out in be beginning but now he’s calm.

So I took him out of the bathtub and put him back in his cage and he goes and sits in the water bowl, which he’s never done. Lol it’s like he didn’t know what water is.

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

Okay I panicked and put him in tub with a little lukewarm water and he’s just staying in the same spot. Do you think he’s enjoying it? He’s was trying to get out in be beginning but now he’s calm.

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Lmbo... You cant Panic you have to stay calm to make good decisions. Things you think may be wrong might actually be normal so you cant react without getting good info etc... The bath isn't going to hurt him but sitting still is probably a sign of him being nervous. Remember these snakes live in & survive Nature.... We need to provide the correct environment to endure they get what they need but dont think they are falling apart from some dry scales :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

Thank you that helps alot! Is it ok to use a temp gun instead of a thermometer? Is the VE-300 a good one to buy?

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Honestly for the extra cash, i would just order a Herpstat 2. I'm not sure about VE ones but I know Herpstats come with a mechanical safety relay as well as a user set hi and low temp threshhold limit. The whole reason you want t-stats is for the safety incase of a runaway heat source. And a t-stat is something you dont want to skimp on. The only thing more important is the snake itself lol.

Now he's been sitting like this for the past hour lol. He's so funny, it's like he didn't know what being in water felt like. He would always avoid the water until after I put him in the bathtub.

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7l8vbpjc.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

Now he's been sitting like this for the past hour lol. He's so funny, it's like he didn't know what being in water felt like. He would always avoid the water until after I put him in the bathtub.

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7l8vbpjc.jpg

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Looks like he is just hanging out...

I think I am going to order a Herpstat 2 now. If I only use it for 1 heat source is that ok? Also, should I upgrade to the steel tip probes?

When I got home I realized the temp in my room was 65 and the cool side was like 68 degrees. Should I get another UTH for the other side cool side after I get the thermostat?

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

When I got home I realized the temp in my room was 65 and the cool side was like 68 degrees. Should I get another UTH for the other side cool side after I get the thermostat?

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YES! OR a Ceramic Heat Emitter, or red light, etc. The temps need to be higher.

Again:

Cool side: 77-80F

Ambient: 77-82F

Hot side: 86-89F

Quote:

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

I think I am going to order a Herpstat 2 now. If I only use it for 1 heat source is that ok? Also, should I upgrade to the steel tip probes?

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You can use with one heat source, but it sounds like you need at least 2 now to get temps correct.

No idea on the tips.

I just ordered the Herpstat 2! Should I wait until the thermostat comes to get another UTH for the cool side? I don't want to cook him.

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

I just ordered the Herpstat 2! Should I wait until the thermostat comes to get another UTH for the cool side? I don't want to cook him.

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When is the thermostat coming?

I would at least have everything ready for when it arrives.

You can use a dimmer switch. NOT AS GOOD AND SHOULD NOT REPLACE A THERMOSTAT. They sell good ones that can handle wattage at home depot, lowes, etc. for about $12.

If your temps are that low, you might want to consider that if the thermostat is not coming for a while.

I have used in the past, BUT you must be careful as room temps change, you will need to adjust. They will not adjust like a thermostat and I assume they can fail open as well, but do not know for sure.

You probably want to set on the lower end of the spectrum of temperatures so if temps go up you aren't overheating him.

AGAIN - not a good long-term solution, and if your temps were adequate, I wouldn't even suggest it. GOOD you ordered the herpstat 2.

You are between a rock and a hard place in my opinion.

Like CALM Pythons said, and I mentioned earlier in the thread, you need to remain calm and make good, informed, decisions, not panicked ones.

However, those temps are low and you could be asking for trouble, especially with the high humidity in conjunction with the low temps.

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

I think I am going to order a Herpstat 2 now. If I only use it for 1 heat source is that ok? Also, should I upgrade to the steel tip probes?

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Yes, you can turn on and off each channel independently. I run one of my Herpstat 6 with only 3 channels on and another one with 5 channels on.

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

When I got home I realized the temp in my room was 65 and the cool side was like 68 degrees. Should I get another UTH for the other side cool side after I get the thermostat?

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For sure. 68 is WAY too cool. I wouldnt go below 70F ever and thats only for an hour or so. For regular cage temps, i wouldnt go below 76F. I keep all my snakes with a 77-79F cool side and a 86-88F hot spot.

If ambient is cold, you might need to get a small CHE and put it on a lamp dimmer to get the ambient in the cage up to around 77-79F. A UTH isnt going to heat the air even close enough to go from 68-78F.

I will try Petco/Petsmart tomorrow and see if I can buy a CHE. Is there a specific one I should be getting? Will the CHE dry out all the humidity?

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

I will try Petco/Petsmart tomorrow and see if I can buy a CHE. Is there a specific one I should be getting? Will the CHE dry out all the humidity?

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They do a little but nothing major since you will just use it to bump up ambient temps. My advice is since you are only using a 20 gallon, get a 40 watt Nano CHE and fixture. They are small and that should give you enough. Also be sure to cover the top of the cage except around 1/4 of it. I use tin foil for tanks. It holds in humidity and heat and is cheap. Also cover the sides of the cage with black craft paper or if you feel like it, sheet insulation like R-type stuff. And if the nano isnt enough, then just return it to Petsmart or Petco and get a full size 8 inch dome with a 60 watt CHE but be sure to use a lamp dimmer for both.

None of the Petco/Petsmarts have the nano in stock. Should I order it online? Or just get the 60 watt? I can pick up a lamp dimmer from Home depot?

Just checked and the 60 watts are also out of stock. So I guess I'll be ordering it. Which one do you think would be better? I covered pretty much the entire tank with a towel except a little hole for ventilation to keep as much heat in there as possible right now.

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

None of the Petco/Petsmarts have the nano in stock. Should I order it online? Or just get the 60 watt? I can pick up a lamp dimmer from Home depot?

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Yeah those Nanos seem to sell pretty quick. They are awesome for the smaller cages and the front opening terrariums. I use a 40 watt nano on my GTP 18x18x18 cube. Well you can order but the reason i said try and get from petsmart or Petco is simply because if the 40 watt isnt enough to raise the ambient, you can return it and not lose cash. You can go with a 8 inch dome and a 60 watt but you will definitely need a lamp dimmer. And yes, you get the lamp dimmers are Home Depot. This is the ones i use for my beardies heat lamp as well as my dubia roach colony CHE. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-203812619-_-N

If you need a dome light in a hurry, Home Depot sells them as well. They are overkill, but can be used with a lower wattage bulb.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-150-...0PDQ/205031467

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-75-W...0PDQ/205139241

That assumes, the have CHE at your local pet store.

And, as Sauzo said, definitely use a dimmer (also sold at home depot).

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

I will try Petco/Petsmart tomorrow and see if I can buy a CHE. Is there a specific one I should be getting? Will the CHE dry out all the humidity?

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They sell a 60/75/100 watt CHE. I cant remember your tank size..
60 watt for 10gal
75/100 for 20 gal+.
You have to cover the top if its screened with Tin Foil and a Hand towel to hold temps for Glass enclosures. Again cant recall what you have

Ok so I decided to go to Petsmart and see if they had the CHE and they did. Online it said it wasn't available in the store. So I got the 60watt CHE and the fixture. I also have a stand from when I had my Bearded Dragon years ago. This is how I set it up. Should I put the bulb over the middle or cool end? Should I put it closer to the the screen? I just turned it on so I'm waiting to see what temp it brings it to. I know the humidity is low. As soon as I take off the towel on drop it drops. I'm going to try using foil.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psgukxasw8.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

Ok so I decided to go to Petsmart and see if they had the CHE and they did. Online it said it wasn't available in the store. So I got the 60watt CHE and the fixture. I also have a stand from when I had my Bearded Dragon years ago. This is how I set it up. Should I put the bulb over the middle or cool end? Should I put it closer to the the screen? I just turned it on so I'm waiting to see what temp it brings it to. I know the humidity is low. As soon as I take off the towel on drop it drops. I'm going to try using foil.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psgukxasw8.jpg

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First, you are using it with a dimmer switch, correct?

When using a dimmer, start low and slowly turn it up.

I would put over the middle/cool side. You want ambient temps up and cool side temps up.

By putting on the cool side, say 40% from the cool side (50% being the middle), you may get ambient temps up to 80-83 or so and the cool side to 77-80F or so.

If you need to move it closer to the cool side, that's fine, just make sure ambients are good and there is a gradient.

Foil is fine. Safer than a towel. Also, more sanitary.

Regarding height from screen, see what temps you get and if you have to move it closer, you can. Remember, every time you move the CHE and/or adjust the dimmer, you will have re-check temps and fine tune again.

Yes, sorry I forgot to add that I got the dimmer as well. I'm still trying to play around with it but I'm so glad that it won't get down to 68. That freaked me out when I saw that. Right above the heating pad, the side against the mirror, next to the water bowl. The degrees seem to vary from like 75-90 is that normal? It's like when I run my temp gun over that area it gets different readings. Should I be aiming the temp gun through the screen top or taking the screen off and going closer to the substrate?

At the substrate.

Not through the screen.

The closer the better. They are not as accurate the farther away you go.

Also. If you have a thermostat in the house, hit that with the temp gun. Read the temp on the thermostat and compare. Some temp guns can be off a few degrees. Don’t sweat a degree or two but adjust from the home thermostat. In other words. Home thermostat is 68 and temp gun reads 69, subtract one degree from temp gun reading in tank.

Depending on how the CHE is pointed there can be temp variance.