Could Roe be fasting..? My baby BCI

Well, she was supposed to eat on Thursday. I offered but she had no interest what-so-ever. On that Thursday, I gave her her usual F/T hopper mouse, exept the thing I did differently was I tried to feed her in her tank. I jiggled it for a good 5 minutes, then when she didn't care I set it down. In 10 minutes she went over and laid on top of it but when I gave it another 10 she went back in her hide. I kept it in there for an hour and a half, and she didn't care. I offered again Friday, in the tank again, and she didn't even come out! I kept it in there for about 2 hours. Then I offered yesterday in the tub. I jiggled it for about 10 minutes, and she showed no interest. I left it in there for 2 hours, and she wanted nothing to do with it. Could she be fasting? I weighed her after I tried yesterday and she lost 5 grams, so I'm kinda worried. Thank you!

I wouldn’t worry for a week of not eating , it may be she’s been to toilet for 5g loss, she may be coming into shed ? Unless anything else has changed in her viv/rub, perhaps post some pics of her set up, and when she last she’d etc normally 6-8 weeks most of my boas shed


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Alright. I was kinda thinking the 5g might be a bowl movement. I don't know if she'd be going into shed.. She shed maybe 2 weeks ago? I havent seen any signs. Here's her tank a week or so ago, since then I blacked out the sides with some poster board. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...48e8b9e864.jpg

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The viv looks fine and she shouldn’t be in shed just yet then, that’s good you blacked the sides out ,I wouldn’t offer for another week, she may be having an off day


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I would wait at least 5 days between offering. If it were my snake, I would wait til Thurs and offer again inside the enclosure.

A baby boa should not turn down food.

Give us a rundown of your temps and stuff. Also i would put in smaller hides. That rock thing is clearly too big compared to the boa on top of it. Remember, snakes prefer small fairly tight fitting hides. And snakes LOVE cardboard like cereal boxes and shoe boxes. They work awesome until they get pissed on haha.

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Well, she was supposed to eat on Thursday. I offered but she had no interest what-so-ever. On that Thursday, I gave her her usual F/T hopper mouse, exept the thing I did differently was I tried to feed her in her tank. I jiggled it for a good 5 minutes, then when she didn't care I set it down. In 10 minutes she went over and laid on top of it but when I gave it another 10 she went back in her hide. I kept it in there for an hour and a half, and she didn't care. I offered again Friday, in the tank again, and she didn't even come out! I kept it in there for about 2 hours. Then I offered yesterday in the tub. I jiggled it for about 10 minutes, and she showed no interest. I left it in there for 2 hours, and she wanted nothing to do with it. Could she be fasting? I weighed her after I tried yesterday and she lost 5 grams, so I'm kinda worried. Thank you!

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Did you warm the mouse up each time you offered ??

Maybe it's simply going into shed mode ??


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Originally Posted by Sauzo

A baby boa should not turn down food.

Give us a rundown of your temps and stuff. Also i would put in smaller hides. That rock thing is clearly too big compared to the boa on top of it. Remember, snakes prefer small fairly tight fitting hides. And snakes LOVE cardboard like cereal boxes and shoe boxes. They work awesome until they get pissed on haha.

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Humidity- 65ish%
Warm-80°F
Cool-73°F
Right at UTH-100°F

7°F drop? I have a 10 gallon... That doesn't seem right.

I have a smaller plastic hide I'm putting in there right now.

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

Did you warm the mouse up each time you offered ??

Maybe it's simply going into shed mode ??


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I did warm the mouse up. I thaw the hopper in one of those small plastic baggies, then I put the baggie in an old pill bottle filled with hot water (but not like boiling). I leave for about a half hour. I check to see if it's all warm and thawed before I offer though, and if not I hit it with a hairdryer.
Maybe she is going into shed. I saw her when I checked the temps, and I might have been imagining it but it looked like her cheeks were a bit pink? I'm not sure if that means anything.

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Humidity- 65ish%
Warm-80°F
Cool-73°F
Right at UTH-100°F

7°F drop? I have a 10 gallon... That doesn't seem right.

I have a smaller plastic hide I'm putting in there right now.

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The UTH is too hot. I wouldnt go above 90F and from my experience with all my snakes, none of them like it above 86-88F.

Warm side is fine. Cool side is a bit cool. I personally wouldnt like it to get below 75F and prefer 77-79F. But for me, that is the whole cage ambient temps as i use flexwatt. So i just offer the 86-88F belly heat spot and the rest of the cage stays room temp which is 75-79F depending if its night or day.

Humidity is ok although might want to mist once a week to spike it. My boas seem to like a warm misting. They perk up and usually come out and wander around for while and are more active.

Thing with smaller cages is despite what a lot of people say about snakes "needing' the small cages, it is harder to get a good temp gradient. You can put a baby snake in a 400 gallon tank if you want assuming you get the security, temps and humidity right. You will probably never find him in there but he wouldnt care either way. The key is you need to make the cage feel secure to them. In the wild they dont live on a 24x12 plot of ground. They move all over but they do have lots of cover and junk to hide in and under and around. You want to replicate that in a larger cage.

And finally like others have said, could he be shedding? Some snakes will eat in shed, some wont. My sunglow is probably a couple days from shedding and she ate a leftover small rat last night. Also the temps of the food dont seem to matter to my boas. They eat stuff that is room temp. It seems more the smell of the item but you can always trying running it under hot(not burning) water to heat it up and them paper towel dry it and hang it infront of him.

Also a final word, how are you taking the temps? With a temp gun? Or that analog temp gauge you got? Analog gauges are generally junk and notorious for being very inaccurate. Go out and buy a temp gun and a digital temp/humidity gauge like an acurite one from Walmart or Target. I use these and they seem fairly accurate. https://www.walmart.com/ip/AcuRite-D...00325/16888914

Also they are bulletproof as my retic has dumped his in his water bowl twice and after removing the battery and letting it dry for a couple days, it works fine again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GpBp

I did warm the mouse up. I thaw the hopper in one of those small plastic baggies, then I put the baggie in an old pill bottle filled with hot water (but not like boiling). I leave for about a half hour. I check to see if it's all warm and thawed before I offer though, and if not I hit it with a hairdryer.
Maybe she is going into shed. I saw her when I checked the temps, and I might have been imagining it but it looked like her cheeks were a bit pink? I'm not sure if that means anything.

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That can mean she is going into shed. Rosey my big girl's cheeks get even more rosy than normal when she is shedding but the easiest telltale with her is she will darken up a LOT and becomes antisocial and usually sits in a hide for about 2 weeks haha.

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

The UTH is too hot. I wouldnt go above 90F and from my experience with all my snakes, none of them like it above 86-88F.

Warm side is fine. Cool side is a bit cool. I personally wouldnt like it to get below 75F and prefer 77-79F. But for me, that is the whole cage ambient temps as i use flexwatt. So i just offer the 86-88F belly heat spot and the rest of the cage stays room temp which is 75-79F depending if its night or day.

Humidity is ok although might want to mist once a week to spike it. My boas seem to like a warm misting. They perk up and usually come out and wander around for while and are more active.

Thing with smaller cages is despite what a lot of people say about snakes "needing' the small cages, it is harder to get a good temp gradient. You can put a baby snake in a 400 gallon tank if you want assuming you get the security, temps and humidity right. You will probably never find him in there but he wouldnt care either way. The key is you need to make the cage feel secure to them. In the wild they dont live on a 24x12 plot of ground. They move all over but they do have lots of cover and junk to hide in and under and around. You want to replicate that in a larger cage.

And finally like others have said, could he be shedding? Some snakes will eat in shed, some wont. My sunglow is probably a couple days from shedding and she ate a leftover small rat last night. Also the temps of the food dont seem to matter to my boas. They eat stuff that is room temp. It seems more the smell of the item but you can always trying running it under hot(not burning) water to heat it up and them paper towel dry it and hang it infront of him.

Also a final word, how are you taking the temps? With a temp gun? Or that analog temp gauge you got? Analog gauges are generally junk and notorious for being very inaccurate. Go out and buy a temp gun and a digital temp/humidity gauge like an acurite one from Walmart or Target. I use these and they seem fairly accurate. https://www.walmart.com/ip/AcuRite-D...00325/16888914

Also they are bulletproof as my retic has dumped his in his water bowl twice and after removing the battery and letting it dry for a couple days, it works fine again.

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I'll turn the UTH down. I have a spare dome I think, so I'll see if I have a low wattage bulb I could put in there over the cool side? I'll be sure to mist a bit longer when I do and make sure it gets into the moss so the humidity isn't getting out as fast. The thing with the tank size is that for 1 I thought I was going to get a hognose (but went to that reptile show and NEEDED Roe lol), and 2 it was super cheap at my dollar per gallon sale lol. I'm actually even looking now for some cheap 40gals so I have something in a couple months :gj: I guess she might be in shed, I won't offer until at least another week and watch for signs that whole time. And about the scent, it reminds me that maybe 2 weeks ago when I fed her I fed a hopper with blood coming out of it's nose and a strong smell. She took that thing faster than a knife fight in a phone booth! Any ideas for making feeders smelly? I'm using a temp gun, and a pretty nice one to. I'll send a picture of the temp gun, of my setup now that I changed the hide, and of Roe if I can find her without disturbing her.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

That can mean she is going into shed. Rosey my big girl's cheeks get even more rosy than normal when she is shedding but the easiest telltale with her is she will darken up a LOT and becomes antisocial and usually sits in a hide for about 2 weeks haha.

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Oh! Good to know. I thought it was just me seeing things lol. And now that I think about it she might be a bit darker than normal :rolleyes: I haven't seen her out much lately, but that's kinda normal lol

Had to include that octopus lolhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1b7f2ccbdd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a801d8b91c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e5227dc5b0.jpg

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by GpBp

I'll turn the UTH down. I have a spare dome I think, so I'll see if I have a low wattage bulb I could put in there over the cool side? I'll be sure to mist a bit longer when I do and make sure it gets into the moss so the humidity isn't getting out as fast. The thing with the tank size is that for 1 I thought I was going to get a hognose (but went to that reptile show and NEEDED Roe lol), and 2 it was super cheap at my dollar per gallon sale lol. I'm actually even looking now for some cheap 40gals so I have something in a couple months :gj: I guess she might be in shed, I won't offer until at least another week and watch for signs that whole time. And about the scent, it reminds me that maybe 2 weeks ago when I fed her I fed a hopper with blood coming out of it's nose and a strong smell. She took that thing faster than a knife fight in a phone booth! Any ideas for making feeders smelly? I'm using a temp gun, and a pretty nice one to. I'll send a picture of the temp gun, of my setup now that I changed the hide, and of Roe if I can find her without disturbing her.

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Ehhh, i'd probably skip the incandescent lightbulb method. It will do nothing but dry the air out. Since you only need a a few degrees, i would probably go with something like a small CHE. It's only a 10 gallon cage so you really shouldnt need something big and if you cover the sides and most of the top of the cage, it should keep warm. I would probably look into something like the new Zoo Med Nano line stuff. The line is only 25 watt or 40 watt and you can leave them on 24/7 as it doesnt give off light. Just make sure the snake cant touch it. i would probably go with a 40 watt one. Try it on full power and see how warm it gets after an hour or so. If it gets a little too warm, either open up some of the top or buy a lamp dimmer from Home Depot. I would also buy the stuff from a local pet shop because if for some reason the 40 watt Nano set up doesnt provide enough heat, you can return it and upgrade to a something like a full size 8 inch dome and a 60 watt CHE but really i cant see a 40 watt Nano not working as its only a 10 gallon tank. Thats what i use for my GTP 18x18x18 cube with a Herpstat and it keeps the top perch at 86F and halfway down, 79F and on the floor, 77F. Remember, you dont need to heat the floor of the cage with it. You just want to heat the ambient a little.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

Ehhh, i'd probably skip the incandescent lightbulb method. It will do nothing but dry the air out. Since you only need a a few degrees, i would probably go with something like a small CHE. It's only a 10 gallon cage so you really shouldnt need something big and if you cover the sides and most of the top of the cage, it should keep warm. I would probably look into something like the new Zoo Med Nano line stuff. The line is only 25 watt or 40 watt and you can leave them on 24/7 as it doesnt give off light. Just make sure the snake cant touch it. i would probably go with a 40 watt one. Try it on full power and see how warm it gets after an hour or so. If it gets a little too warm, either open up some of the top or buy a lamp dimmer from Home Depot. I would also buy the stuff from a local pet shop because if for some reason the 40 watt Nano set up doesnt provide enough heat, you can return it and upgrade to a something like a full size 8 inch dome and a 60 watt CHE but really i cant see a 40 watt Nano not working as its only a 10 gallon tank. Thats what i use for my GTP 18x18x18 cube with a Herpstat and it keeps the top perch at 86F and halfway down, 79F and on the floor, 77F. Remember, you dont need to heat the floor of the cage with it. You just want to heat the ambient a little.

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Ok! Sorry to get into husbandry *cough*again. I did find 2 extra regular size domes, but the lowest wattage I could find was a 60w. That's a really good idea to go to the nano stuff! I could go Thursday, would that be too long to go with it being a couple degrees cool? I've got free time in the evening on Monday and Thursday, so that would be the best time. I'll get a 40w nano set :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Ok! Sorry to get into husbandry *cough*again. I did find 2 extra regular size domes, but the lowest wattage I could find was a 60w. That's a really good idea to go to the nano stuff! I could go Thursday, would that be too long to go with it being a couple degrees cool? I've got free time in the evening on Monday and Thursday, so that would be the best time. I'll get a 40w nano set :D

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Should be fine. I'd keep the UTH up to around 90F then to offer a little bit warmer spot than usual since you have a colder than usual spot.

You could probably use the 60 watt too actually but you would definitely need a lamp dimmer from Home Depot. These are what I used to use just for ambient and I still use them for my dubia roach bin with a CHE https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-10E/203812619

And no problem. Better to ask questions and learn than to just guess and make a grave mistake.

Alright. I got home from PetSmart an hour and a half ago. I couldn't find the nano stuff, so I bought a $20 dome with a dimmer. Well... when I got home I found out I had a 40w bulb that would do well in my domes I already had :rofl:. I put the 40w in there and tested it out, and it worked! I cut out another hole in the tin foil for the other dome and set it on there. (I can get a pic) I left it for an hour or so and here's what my temps are reading now:
Cool 79°F
Warm 82°F
Is this okay? I still haven't opened the dimmer, so I'll return it if this works. If not, I'll open up the dimmer and adjust the temps :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Alright. I got home from PetSmart an hour and a half ago. I couldn't find the nano stuff, so I bought a $20 dome with a dimmer. Well... when I got home I found out I had a 40w bulb that would do well in my domes I already had :rofl:. I put the 40w in there and tested it out, and it worked! I cut out another hole in the tin foil for the other dome and set it on there. (I can get a pic) I left it for an hour or so and here's what my temps are reading now:
Cool 79°F
Warm 82°F
Is this okay? I still haven't opened the dimmer, so I'll return it if this works. If not, I'll open up the dimmer and adjust the temps :D

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Looks awesome to me. Now just drop the UTH down to around 86-88F and you should be golden. You generally want to see the boa going from cool to warm sides. If they are on the warm side all the time, then bump the warm side up a couple degrees. If its on the cool side all the time, drop the warm side down a couple degrees. You want the boa to move around the whole cage, not sit balled up on the cool side or warm side.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Alright. I got home from PetSmart an hour and a half ago. I couldn't find the nano stuff, so I bought a $20 dome with a dimmer. Well... when I got home I found out I had a 40w bulb that would do well in my domes I already had :rofl:. I put the 40w in there and tested it out, and it worked! I cut out another hole in the tin foil for the other dome and set it on there. (I can get a pic) I left it for an hour or so and here's what my temps are reading now:
Cool 79°F
Warm 82°F
Is this okay? I still haven't opened the dimmer, so I'll return it if this works. If not, I'll open up the dimmer and adjust the temps :D

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Just take the new bulb back and get a refund. That is pretty much the only reason i like using local pet shops. If the stuff doesnt work out, you can return it :P And you mean a CHE right? Not an actual bulb that gives off light right? You dont want a 'light' bulb as that being on 24/7 probably wont help you or the snake sleep lol.

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

Just take the new bulb back and get a refund. That is pretty much the only reason i like using local pet shops. If the stuff doesnt work out, you can return it :P And you mean a CHE right? Not an actual bulb that gives off light right? You dont want a 'light' bulb as that being on 24/7 probably wont help you or the snake sleep lol.

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I'll take it back then ;) Er, yes, it gives off light. I turned them both off last night before I went to bed. They're back on now though..

UGGHH! So, I checked the cool side before I left, just to make sure, and guess what it was reading? 84°F! I was going to go get the dimmer, but I really had to go and it would take time to adjust it. So I just unplugged it? She still has her warm side lamp on.

CHEs last longer than light blubs and are more efficient too. You should definitely pick one up when you get the chance.

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Originally Posted by GpBp

I'll take it back then ;) Er, yes, it gives off light. I turned them both off last night before I went to bed. They're back on now though..

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Take the bulb back and exchange it for a Ceramic Heat Emitter. As mentioned they last a LOT longer and dont give off light. So you can just leave it on 24/7. They are initially more expensive but last like 20 times longer than a lightbulb.

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

Take the bulb back and exchange it for a Ceramic Heat Emitter. As mentioned they last a LOT longer and dont give off light. So you can just leave it on 24/7. They are initially more expensive but last like 20 times longer than a lightbulb.

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Okay I'll get the CHE bulb. Should I take the dial back or should I keep it and use it for the new bulb?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by GpBp

UGGHH! So, I checked the cool side before I left, just to make sure, and guess what it was reading? 84°F! I was going to go get the dimmer, but I really had to go and it would take time to adjust it. So I just unplugged it? She still has her warm side lamp on.

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Haha, time to keep the dimmer then. And get that CHE. It will take a little bit of adjusting to get it right. Remember, it will fluctuate with the day. You just want to get a happy median. If it goes from 77-80, you're still fine. I just wouldnt get the cool side above 82 or below 75. Anything in between there is fine.

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Alright. I was kinda thinking the 5g might be a bowl movement. I don't know if she'd be going into shed.. She shed maybe 2 weeks ago? I havent seen any signs. Here's her tank a week or so ago, since then I blacked out the sides with some poster board. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...48e8b9e864.jpg

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Are you using a digital temp gun for surface temps ??

I'm not sure from the photo ..

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

Are you using a digital temp gun for surface temps ??

I'm not sure from the photo ..

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Yep! I'm using this digital one [emoji12]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...37fea36ae3.jpg

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

Are you using a digital temp gun for surface temps ??

I'm not sure from the photo ..

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The CHE would not be for floor temps. It would only be for the ambient which he can take easy enough just using a digital thermometer/humidity gauge. Throw out that analog one like i said. Those are usually off by a good amount.

The floor heat would come from the UTH he is running on a t-stat and that i would set to 86-88F for a boa at the glass under the substrate, not on top of the substrate.

The only problem is the substrate is pretty deep. If you are going to use belly heat, generally you dont want anything over 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch deep. Otherwise you are kind of defeating the purpose.

Alright. 3 things.
In the picture you can see the bulb I used. I still have the 40w. I was going to make a trip to PetSmart to get the CHE, but wanted to try out what I had first. I think it works! I have it dimmed halfway down which is good for the temps and the lighting. At night I turn the right lamp off and keep the new one on. It gives off a soft, dim, orange glow. This works.(?)

I forgot to feed last night... I was out late and didnt get home until 11:00 and was pretty tired. So ill feed all the snakes once it gets a bit darker tonight. Ill post pictures of how I thaw and if Roe eats :) (so expect pictures lol)

And I had an idea that makes me a bit nervous. I dont think this is the reason shes not eating, because before this she ate twice with us, but when we got her the breeder said he was only offering live... (I offered f/t on the first feeding just to see if she'd take it, and she did, so ive just been doing that.) Could she "be on to me"? Realise its f/t and not accept it? I dont want to feed live. I will defiantly if it comes to it, but id really prefer not to.

Thank you :)https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...79a045689a.jpghttps://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...3126aa2bf1.jpghttps://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...623d1f8404.jpghttps://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...a7be63069a.jpg

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I usually give the snake whatever it was fed before it got to me for it's first meals before switching it, feeding live might be worth a shot.

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Originally Posted by MD_Pythons

I usually give the snake whatever it was fed before it got to me for it's first meals before switching it, feeding live might be worth a shot.

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Alright. Ill try this f/t feeding tonight, and if she doesn't eat ill feed live...

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Waiting for them to thaw :)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...79dc10d9b9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a9ff7915e8.jpg

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Warm, dry, and stinky! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...117dfd9069.jpg

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Well. I'm in mad tears. She struck and seemed to latch on, but dropped it again. She just moved to the very back of the tank now. I stressted her out I know. I dont know what to dohttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fa7a706e7c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2f7a4b00fd.jpg

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Of course when May went to eat she got a mouth full of eco earthhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5601397e8b.jpg

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I'm so frustrated right now. Geno won't eat, May is stressed out because I had to manually remove the huge ball of substrate stuck in her mouth, so she won't eat. And Roe still hasn't moved. :tears::mad::(

Sounds like the boa is stressed. The biting is probably a defensive bite over a food bite especially if it didnt coil it. Yo need to ditch those huge hides. Give the boa nice small hides that he can get into and feel safe. Think like a snake. If you were a baby snake, where would you want to hide? A nice small dark place that nothing can get to you. Remember, you gotta work on the snakes terms, not the other way around lol.

Ok. At the show tomorrow ill get a small hide for her. Sorry about that, I was freaking out a little bit lol. Thanks. When should I feed her next and when I do should I try live..?

(Also, Geno and May ate! Roe didn't)
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Quote:

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Ok. At the show tomorrow ill get a small hide for her. Sorry about that, I was freaking out a little bit lol. Thanks. When should I feed her next and when I do should I try live..?

(Also, Geno and May ate! Roe didn't)
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I personally wouldnt bother live until a very last resort. I've never met a picky boa. Mine dont even care if the food is warm or room temp. They seem to go off smell more than anything. I would probably just wait a week once you get some nice small hides for him and let him settle in. Trying to feed him when he is already stressed will just stress him out more and could put him off food even more.

Also for the hides, you want something like http://www.reptilebasics.com/medium-hide-box A nice simple, easy to clean one door preferably offset door hide. I used the medium ones for Luna my dumerils when she was about 1.5 ft long. She is now up to about 3 ft and uses the large hides. I also use the large ones for all my juvenile boas and use the jumbo ones for my retic and adult boas. Just take a look at your boa curled up and try and find a hide that would fit him pretty good.

Quick update: Just got back from the show (It was a blast!) and I got a small hide for Roe. I was looking for some clips for her tank, but the smallest I could find was for 30gal. Anyways, I think she'll like the new hide! I just got the one, I think I should've gotten two but it was a bit expensive. It's just like the one Sauzo linked, but a lot smaller :D Thanks for the advice/help! I might post back on here if she doesn't eat next Thursday, but thank you guys!

Oh and I weighed Roe yesterday, and she's still at 71g. Hasn't lost anything! (And I put her right back after I weighed her so I didn't stress her out :))

Good luck man. It takes a long time for a boa to actually lose weight assuming it is healthy.

!![emoji322][emoji3][emoji323][emoji324][emoji16]!!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c2d4ea9552.jpg

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Originally Posted by GpBp

!![emoji322][emoji3][emoji323][emoji324][emoji16]!!https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...c2d4ea9552.jpg

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NICE! Good work!

Leave Roe alone for a couple of day to digest, then handle sparingly until the next meal is down. Once you have two good meals in Roe, I think you can be a little less cautious.

BCI's tend not to refuse a meal once comfortable.

Glad Roe is eating!

Grats bud. Now just remember to not overfeed him lol.

Glad you got a meal inside roe At last


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