Feeding help and what I have tried so far???

I acquired a striped ball python from a local pet store. He was nice looking and nice thickness in the main part of the body. We estimate him to be 7 to 8 months old. I have had him for 3 and half weeks. He fed the Wednesday before I acquired him. He has not eaten at my home at all. I am keeping him in a aquarium type enclosure. Temp on the cool side is in the mid 80s. Humidity is 70ish. He has a towel over the cage to reduce light entering. 2 hides (one on the cool side and one on the warm side) which from time to time he travels between. I have tried several things to get him to eat. He was in his new cage unhandled for 1 week. It is now been 4 weeks. Here is the list of what I have tried.

1) Feeding in a feeder box. Offered 2 kinds of rats of appropriate size on 2 separate nights.
2) Feeding in his cage where he lives by introducing the rat to the cage near him.
3) Feeding in his cage where I introduce him to the cage after I have taken him out of the cage for a moment.

I am starting to get worried that he might not eat and have even seen videos of people getting a snake to eat by placing the rat in the snakes mouth (dead rat in this case, I have been trying to feed live to far). Not sure this will be the best rout?????

He still looks reasonably healthy so far. He is very scared of being handled and strikes at least once when held. He also has struck at the mouse but was more in fear than hunger. I am open to suggestions here. There is so much conflicting information on the internet. Some say that they can go months not eating. This young cant be health????? At what point should I truly be worried? What else should I try?

you do not assist feed an animal (placing feeder into the mouth of the snake) that knows how to eat. you need to fix your husbandry before trying anything that extreme. a healthy looking snake can last a lot longer than you'd think without food.

what size enclosure? glass? tub? what are you using for heat? how are you regulating your heat source(s)? how are you measuring your temperatures and humidity? what type of hides, and are they identical? how much does the snake weigh? what size prey are you offering?

stop all handling until the snake is eating regularly. do not bother the snake AT ALL unless checking for poop/urates and changing water.

EDIT: welcome to the forum!!! fortunately this is a common problem with new keepers, and usually pretty easy to fix as it's husbandry related 99.8% of the time. :)

I was just about to say pretty much what tttaylorrr already said.

In order to help you, we'll need more info.

The main 2 reasons new snakes don't eat are:
a) husbandry issues and
b) stress.

So, providing the info tttaylorrr mentioned will help us determine whether husbandry, stress or both is the issue and help you get your snake eating.

You definitely don't want to assist feed. That is the absolute last resort and we can help you avoid that.
Lime tttaylorrr said, no handling either.

How much does the snake weighs?

What is the enclosure size?

What are your EXACT temps, what type of thermometer do you use, and where do you take you readings?

Are those hides tight and I mean snug around the body like a shell on a turtles back?

What was he previously feeding?

How many times have you tried feeding him total and how space apart.

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1) Feeding in a feeder box. Offered 2 kinds of rats of appropriate size on 2 separate nights.
2) Feeding in his cage where he lives by introducing the rat to the cage near him
3) Feeding in his cage where I introduce him to the cage after I have taken him out of the cage for a moment.

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Number 2&3 are part of the reason you failed, other reasons could be husbandry related hence the need for details.

To answer the questions.

My aquarium stile tank is 20 gallon size. I do keep a towel over the entire tank.

The cooler side fluctuates between 75 and 83 degrees. Under tank heating pad for the warmer side.

The hide is a little larger on the warmer side than the cooler side. The cooler side hide is snug. He does fit but barely.

Temp and humidity is measured digitally.

I think he is stressed.

I don't have a way to weigh him. I will get a gram scale.

I think someone said that feeding (2 and 3) in his cage is bad. Everyone said not to handle him. How am I supposed to put him in the feeding box then?

Feed him in his enclosure. It is a myth to feed In a feeding box. And we need exact temps. What his his hot side temp measured at the glass without any substrate? Is your uth on a thermostat? If not unplug it. Pictures help a great deal too. Use the tapatalk app to upload pictures.

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Originally Posted by Deborah

How much does the snake weighs?

What is the enclosure size?

What are your EXACT temps, what type of thermometer do you use, and where do you take you readings?

Are those hides tight and I mean snug around the body like a shell on a turtles back?

What was he previously feeding?

How many times have you tried feeding him total and how space apart.
Number 2&3 are part of the reason you failed, other reasons could be husbandry related hence the need for details.

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He was eating white rats live. The pet store thought that he might want a species of rat native to his organs and offered one that has black and brown patches. They are just a little larger than his head.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

My aquarium stile tank is 20 gallon size. I do keep a towel over the entire tank.

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there's a chance you might need to downsize the enclosure and get him to eat. this method written by Deborah is her tried and true method for new hatchlings and young snakes. read this over and see if it is an option for you. and remember: it's temporary.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

The cooler side fluctuates between 75 and 83 degrees. Under tank heating pad for the warmer side.

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that is a large swing. how are you controlling your UTH? ALL heat sources MUST be regulated by a thermoSTAT or other type of electronic control.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

The hide is a little larger on the warmer side than the cooler side. The cooler side hide is snug. He does fit but barely.

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2 identical cave-like (one opening) hides is S.O.P. for ball pythons. they need to be TIGHT and almost fit like a shell. the reason for identical hides is so they don't favor one over another and sacrifice thermoregulating for security.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

Temp and humidity is measured digitally.

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good!

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

I think he is stressed.

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most definitely. ;)

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

I don't have a way to weigh him. I will get a gram scale.

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knowing the weight of the snake is the best way to determine overall health and monitor their growth. please get a scale.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

I think someone said that feeding (2 and 3) in his cage is bad. Everyone said not to handle him. How am I supposed to put him in the feeding box then?

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this is the only exception to that guideline.

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Originally Posted by Sunnieskys

Feed him in his enclosure. It is a myth to feed In a feeding box. And we need exact temps. What his his hot side temp measured at the glass without any substrate? Is your uth on a thermostat? If not unplug it. Pictures help a great deal too. Use the tapatalk app to upload pictures.

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I will tonight when off work.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

I will tonight when off work.

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when was the last time you offered? offering too much can cause a cycle of stress and more refusals. best give him 7 days of privacy before offering again.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

To answer the questions.

My aquarium stile tank is 20 gallon size. I do keep a towel over the entire tank.

The cooler side fluctuates between 75 and 83 degrees. Under tank heating pad for the warmer side.

The hide is a little larger on the warmer side than the cooler side. The cooler side hide is snug. He does fit but barely.

Temp and humidity is measured digitally.

I think he is stressed.

I don't have a way to weigh him. I will get a gram scale.

I think someone said that feeding (2 and 3) in his cage is bad. Everyone said not to handle him. How am I supposed to put him in the feeding box then?

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Here are some of your problem for now until you give more details, in a glass cage you want both hides to be identical and snug so the animal does not chose security over thermo-regulation potential issue.

Your temps on the cool side should fluctuate 2 degrees at the most not 8, that is another potential reason for the animal not to eat.

Now for the other questions.

Please post a picture of snake by dollar bill for comparison or in your hand.

Where do you take your reading and what is your temp on the warm side?

How many attemtps total did you make and how many days apart?

DO NOT FEED unless you have answer all question and addressed all problem that have been pointed out so far, and giving it a least a week before offering again from adjusting issues.

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

when was the last time you offered? offering too much can cause a cycle of stress and more refusals. best give him 7 days of privacy before offering again.

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I offered last night. Was 5 days the last time I offered.

Please be aware that a thermostat is NOT optional. Without one, your UTH can easily reach over 100 degrees and burn your snake! As mentioned, please unplug it until you have it connected to a thermostat. So that may be one of the several reasons that your snake is stressed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000N...art+thermostat

Here's a link to an affordable thermostat. I'm confident that once you fix your husbandry issues your snake will eat!

He was feeding on live rodents. Are you offering that or trying to switch to frozen thawed during this time. You have had him less than a month and are already trying to feed while trying to acclimate. Not the best idea.

First I would hold off feeding until you meet the husbandry conditions needed to help this snake reduce moving stress and feel safe in their enclosure.

After meeting the requirements you need to for a ball python, I would then offer only once per week a live or preferably pre killed (as in you buy it live and kill it right before offering) until this snake starts eating. After getting it on a reliable feeding schedule where it does not refuse and where its husbandry needs are met you can then try and switch to frozen thawed.

For now I would reply to Deborah in this thread. She has the experience you need to get your snake feeding and as such do exactly what she says. Do nothing else until you fix husbandry to what your snake needs. Stop trying to feed so much and give it a week at least to acclimate before offering again.

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Originally Posted by Deborah

Here are some of your problem for now until you give more details, in a glass cage you want both hides to be identical and snug so the animal does not chose security over thermo-regulation potential issue.

Your temps on the cool side should fluctuate 2 degrees at the most not 8, that is another potential reason for the animal not to eat.

Now for the other questions.

Please post a picture of snake by dollar bill for comparison or in your hand.

Where do you take your reading and what is your temp on the warm side?

How many attemtps total did you make and how many days apart?

DO NOT FEED unless you have answer all question and addressed all problem that have been pointed out so far, and giving it a least a week before offering again from adjusting issues.

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My avatar is the snake in question. Much larger than a dollar bill. You can see me holding him.

I am investing in a temperature regulating system for him but will not arrive till tomorrow. Could not find locally. Getting one that regulates both temp and humidity. Also my only heating method at this moment is the under tank heating pad. Is this enough? Do I need to get a heat lamp for ambient temp and then use the heating pad for the hot spot only? 4 attempts in 3 weeks. One was with regular white rat. The rest with African rat (was suggested by the pet store). I will get another hide the same shape and size as the one on the cooler side tonight.

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Originally Posted by SDA

He was feeding on live rodents. Are you offering that or trying to switch to frozen thawed during this time. You have had him less than a month and are already trying to feed while trying to acclimate. Not the best idea.

First I would hold off feeding until you meet the husbandry conditions needed to help this snake reduce moving stress and feel safe in their enclosure.

After meeting the requirements you need to for a ball python, I would then offer only once per week a live or preferably pre killed (as in you buy it live and kill it right before offering) until this snake starts eating. After getting it on a reliable feeding schedule where it does not refuse and where its husbandry needs are met you can then try and switch to frozen thawed.

For now I would reply to Deborah in this thread. She has the experience you need to get your snake feeding and as such do exactly what she says. Do nothing else until you fix husbandry to what your snake needs. Stop trying to feed so much and give it a week at least to acclimate before offering again.

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He has always been fed live and so offering live.

My daughter and I liberated this scale from the kitchen. It works great for our 2017 hatchling (now 340 grams) and it's only $15.99 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KICLN4C...536817853&th=1

I should add that we not only track the weight our boy, we also track the weight of his prey (yes, a little obsessive, but we only have one).

I would agree that you listen and follow Deborah to a T. She has asked some pretty specific questions. I would answer them all in one post, then she can better help you.

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Originally Posted by larryd23

I should add that we not only track the weight our boy, we also track the weight of his prey (yes, a little obsessive, but we only have one).

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I weigh all my prey too. I have 4 snakes now and will be adding more over the next few years. I weigh and sort my prey and pull only what I need on feeding days. Helps keep the prey organized as well as keeps prey fresher longer.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

My avatar is the snake in question. Much larger than a dollar bill. You can see me holding him.

I am investing in a temperature regulating system for him but will not arrive till tomorrow. Could not find locally. Getting one that regulates both temp and humidity. Also my only heating method at this moment is the under tank heating pad. Is this enough? Do I need to get a heat lamp for ambient temp and then use the heating pad for the hot spot only? 4 attempts in 3 weeks. One was with regular white rat. The rest with African rat (was suggested by the pet store). I will get another hide the same shape and size as the one on the cooler side tonight.

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You sure you mean a thermoSTAT and not a thermoMETER right? Kira already linked to a good budget friendly thermostat to get started on if you are tight on money. However if you are willing to spend more for a higher quality thermostat with better longetivity I highly recommend herpstats.

https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...=index&cPath=1

As for African soft furs you'd be better off fixing your husbandry first and keeping with regular rats before pursuing asf. Unless you have readily available supplier they can be incredibly hard to come by on a regular basis and I've often heard of ball pythons being unable to switch back to any other prey once they've been established on afs. So be careful with afs unless you are ready to commit to only feeding asf and finding back up suppliers and hope they stay in business say 5-10 years from now. Just a possibility you may need to consider depending where you live.

But as others already pointed out your first focus is addressing your husbandry before feeding and answer Deborah's questions.

If you are only using a heat pad, which does nothing for ambient temps, then yes you may want to invest in a CHE lamp (on a thermoSTAT) to raise and maintain a steady ambient instead of dealing with fluctuations. And yes have your heat pad for a hot spot. Just keep in mind you will need BOTH your CHE and heatpad regulated by a thermostat.

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Originally Posted by MissterDog

You sure you mean a thermoSTAT and not a thermoMETER right? Kira already linked to a good budget friendly thermostat to get started on if you are tight on money. However if you are willing to spend more for a higher quality thermostat with better longetivity I highly recommend herpstats.

https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...=index&cPath=1

As for African soft furs you'd be better off fixing your husbandry first and keeping with regular rats before pursuing asf. Unless you have readily available supplier they can be incredibly hard to come by on a regular basis and I've often heard of ball pythons being unable to switch back to any other prey once they've been established on afs. So be careful with afs unless you are ready to commit to only feeding asf and finding back up suppliers and hope they stay in business say 5-10 years from now. Just a possibility you may need to consider depending where you live.

But as others already pointed out your first focus is addressing your husbandry before feeding and answer Deborah's questions.

If you are only using a heat pad for your hot spot, which does nothing for ambient temps, then yes you may want to invest in a CHE lamp (on a thermoSTAT) to raise and maintain a steady ambient instead of dealing with fluctuations. Just keep in mind you will need BOTH your CHE and heatpad regulated by a thermostat.

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I ordered this for the over head heat lamp and humidity.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also ordered the one that was linked for the heating pad. Now lets talk about settings? So much conflicting information here as well. What settings to use for all 3?

I am so grateful to everyone who is offering advice. A little history about me. I have had 2 corn snakes, 1 king snake, and 1 rather mean green tree boa. This is my first ball python. I fell in love with the different morphs and am studying how they are genetically driven. I am so excited to move into the world of larger snakes. I hope what I learn with my first ball will help me become a better caretaker for future pythons I will eventually own. I just downloaded the app that will allow me to share photos.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

I ordered this for the over head heat lamp and humidity.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also ordered the one that was linked for the heating pad. Now lets talk about settings? So much conflicting information here as well. What settings to use for all 3?

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this is where you need to play scientist and run some tests on your own. everyone's environment and location is different so there is no one set way to achieve the proper temperatures. you need to create a 90° F hot spot, a 75-80° F cold side, and ~60% humidity, and how you achieve that with your equipment is up to you and your knowledge.

the thermostat probe for the UTH is placed between the UTH and the bottom of the enclosure OUTSIDE of the enclosure. this is very important, as you measure the temperature of the hot spot inside the enclosure BELOW any substrate. you'll likely have to set the thermostat for the UTH a couple degrees higher than the ideal hot spot (90° F). for the heat lamp, you're going to have to dangle the probe just above the substrate and adjust the settings for the lamp to the temperature readings in the enclosure.

does this make sense? :)

It's really not at all conflicting.

Hot spot that is referring to the inside bottom of the tank where the UTH is should be where you read for warm side temps. This is where the warm hide will be and should read between 88-92 degrees. 90 is a generally agreed upon target temp that is acceptable for most if not all juvenile and above ball pythons. You do not read from the top of the substrate for this as the snake will push and dig down to the heat. The UTH thermostat probe must be placed outside the tank in direct contact with the UTH. The best method is to wedge it between the tank and UTH itself. The thermostat probe must not be inside where the snake can lay or relieve themselves on and cause false readings.

The ambient temperature is the air temperature between the hot side hide and the cool side hide and should be aimed for a range between upper 70s to lower 80s so somewhere between 78-82 is a good target range.

The cool side is where the cool hide will be and should be taken inside or near the cold hide at the substrate level but not against the glass and should be above 75 degrees and a good target is roughly 10-12 degrees cooler than the hot side.

The danger levels are if you start getting it above 95 degrees on the hot side and below 75 in the rest of the tank. As long as you keep the temps out of those extremes you should be good.

The key is stable temps. If you can keep temp fluctuation within a 3-5 degree swing you are doing excellent. Also do not worry so much if there is a temporary cool down so long as it is not drastic and it is not long lasting. For example if the cage cools to say 74 for a few days it's not going to be bad. What you want to make sure is you don't leave it cool for any period of time.


So in summary, 90 degree target temp at bottom of tank where UTH is, upper 70s to low 80s for ambient temp between warm and cool hide and above 75 degrees on cool hide.

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

this is where you need to play scientist and run some tests on your own. everyone's environment and location is different so there is no one set way to achieve the proper temperatures. you need to create a 90° F hot spot, a 75-80° F cold side, and ~60% humidity, and how you achieve that with your equipment is up to you and your knowledge.

the thermostat probe for the UTH is placed between the UTH and the bottom of the enclosure OUTSIDE of the enclosure. this is very important, as you measure the temperature of the hot spot inside the enclosure BELOW any substrate. you'll likely have to set the thermostat for the UTH a couple degrees higher than the ideal hot spot (90° F). for the heat lamp, you're going to have to dangle the probe just above the substrate and adjust the settings for the lamp to the temperature readings in the enclosure.

does this make sense? :)

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Yes it does.

The pet store guessed he was 6-8 months old. Does that seam correct?

Here are some pictures. https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...60a1d60f0b.jpghttps://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...59d097234b.jpg

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

Yes it does.

The pet store guessed he was 6-8 months old. Does that seam correct?

Here are some pictures. https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...60a1d60f0b.jpghttps://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...59d097234b.jpg

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honestly it's impossible to tell from a photo. weight is a better indicator. and just so you know, he looks very plump. :) a few missed meals aren't hurting him at all.

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

the thermostat probe for the UTH is placed between the UTH and the bottom of the enclosure OUTSIDE of the enclosure. this is very important, as you measure the temperature of the hot spot inside the enclosure BELOW any substrate.

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a picture is worth a thousand words...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...842f0a184f.jpg

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

He has always been fed live and so offering live.

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Slow down. Dont panic, they can go for Months & Months without eating. Don't try to feed more than once every 7 days or refusing becomes habit forming. Keep him in a quiet room without kids or high traffic. Offer the food after 8pm when nobody has bothered him & ONLY when he is in his hide. Do Not turn the lights on or have, the entire Family and neighbors standing over the enclosure watching. They sense it. Ball Pythons are not aggressive hunters normally. They are opportunistic. They rather sit quietly and snatch something when it walks by the hide door and pull it in to eat alone. All the monkeying around you will be doing with the enclosure and Thermostat soon will put this off longer. He needs proper temps and to adjust to his new home before he will be content. Hold off on feeding for a week after his enclosure is all set and leave him be. Once he eats you will understand the signs of hunger also. Most peak their nose out the hide door at night. This is how they wait for the perfect chance to snag something going by. Good luck and dont worry as long as he is 88/90 hot Hide UTH and a 78/80 cool hide your ok. Mine spend 98% of their time in the cool...
Also as far as Ambient.. You can get a smaller 12 watt UTH and run it at 78 under your cool hide or get a (100 watt for 20 gal tank) CHE for over the cool side. The small UTH at this point would be easiest for you. Heat lamps and CHE's dry the tanks out bad. The biggest thing to remember is that they have to be on Thermostats. A small UTH can get to 140 degrees directly plugged into the wall. If you cant afford a Herpstat 2 that runs two heat sources ($189) then go to Lowes and get 2 Dimmer Switch extension cords. They are $15.99. They are not reliable IMO but better than nothing.
Take your time and read this stuff over and over. Write it down if you need to and you will start to get a handle on it.
Most of all take things in stride here. Sometimes people come off aggressively but thats because everyday people come on here and have a snake in distress because they bought one without knowing what to do or they listened to some nonsense a 18 yr old worker at Petsmart told them that doesn't know the difference between a ball python and a meal worm hahahahahaha
Good Luck.


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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

a picture is worth a thousand words...
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...842f0a184f.jpg

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Got it and thanks. Will have it set up tomorrow after work.

SDA and tttaylorrr pretty much covered everything about settings and ideal temp ranges. To better read your surface temps for your hot spot I highly reccomend buying a temp gun. They are pretty inexpensive on amazon!

this is the one I use and works great!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Try to address the hides and temps those are the two most important things, if he was eating live rats keep offering that, do not offer alternative size prey it's usually not the solution but can create a bigger headache for you in the future.

If possible get a weight on him, a simple $10 kitchen scale will do, he seems of a good size and depending on the size since he is not an hatchling he might also have breeding on his mind, not to mention that older animals take a little longer to adjust.

He has some good size to him based on the little I see on the picture so that's not something I would be concerned about.

So address those then give it a week and offer food again in the enclosure and remove after 10/15 min if uneaten. Make sure the prey is sized adequately

Here is the chart. https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...=1#post2493722

If that fail there are more trick such as downsizing the enclosure size but we are not there yet.

As for is a heat pad enough? well it depends every situation is different based on enclosure, average home temps etc. What you want to aim for is at least 76/78 cool and 88/90 hot with no greater fluctuation than that (temps fluctuation usually will create disturbance in their routine such as feeding). To achieve that some people only need a heat pad some may require 2 heat pad and 2 thermostat (which is the easiest way to achieve proper ambient temp on the cool side compare to keeping your room in the mid to high 70's)

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

Yes it does.

The pet store guessed he was 6-8 months old. Does that seam correct?

Here are some pictures. https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...60a1d60f0b.jpghttps://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...59d097234b.jpg

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Id say yes at least 8 months if its a male & comparing him to the Hand size and length..id say 660 grams although a pic can be very deceiving. Great looking snake though and no where's near underfed or unhealthy. Congrats on the Pet.


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Originally Posted by Mr Sully

Id say yes at least 8 months if its a male & comparing him to the Hand size and length..id say 660 grams although a pic can be very deceiving. Great looking snake though and no where's near underfed or unhealthy. Congrats on the Pet.


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I will weigh him today. They probed him at the pet store and said was a he. He has not lost much weight as I can tell. He might be over fed or just well fed?

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Originally Posted by Deborah

If possible get a weight on him, a simple $10 kitchen scale will do, he seems of a good size and depending on the size since he is not an hatchling he might also have breeding on his mind,

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I haven't even considered breeding on his mind. On average what age could this become a thing?

He weighs 536 grams

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

I will weigh him today. They probed him at the pet store and said was a he. He has not lost much weight as I can tell. He might be over fed or just well fed?

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Nahh he looks good not overweight. Nice find. Sometimes pet stores dont really know how to probe and sometimes probing is tricky. I never learned either.. Depending on how much "he" grows, he could always be a She hahahah. My Girls grew faster and 50% larger than my male and other males at the same age.. But thats here nor there.. Just rambling now :)


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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

He weighs 536 grams

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Nice. My young girl was 528 today.... Dont worry he will settle and start to eat.. Get things right and give him sometime and follow some of the advice. (quiet, when he is in his hide, just you, night time ect)


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I was horrified to find out the power has been out at my house most of the day and freezing temp outside.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

I was horrified to find out the power has been out at my house most of the day and freezing temp outside.

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It happens.. I take it its back on? If not put him in a pillowcase under your shirt.. I bought a Kerosene heater for just that reason. At least id be able to heat that room up.


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Originally Posted by Mr Sully

It happens.. I take it its back on? If not put him in a pillowcase under your shirt.. I bought a Kerosene heater for just that reason. At least id be able to heat that room up.


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It is on again now.

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Was given this little girl today. Born October 20th 2017 147 grams was told it was a girlhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...30d9d2fead.jpg

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I finally got my humidifier and the temperature humidifier controller all set up and all my temperatures are now correct and regulated. I hope by Wednesday of next week he will be eating.

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I hope the new snake is in a Quarantine Tub in another room. Most do 6 months.. I have cheated and gone 3 months if I new the breeder ect... The last thing you want is 2 snakes with Mites, RI's, Worms Etc.. If one has it already.
Not being a kill joy but you move fast hahahahaha.
Very pretty color

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Originally Posted by CALM Pythons

I hope the new snake is in a Quarantine Tub in another room. Most do 6 months.. I have cheated and gone 3 months if I new the breeder ect... The last thing you want is 2 snakes with Mites, RI's, Worms Etc.. If one has it already.
Not being a kill joy but you move fast hahahahaha.
Very pretty color

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Yes is in another room. Didn't think about quarenteen though. Thanks for advice.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

Yes is in another room. Didn't think about quarenteen though. Thanks for advice.

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great to hear. please do a bit of research on quarantine practices; it's a very important part of owning multiple reptiles.

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

great to hear. please do a bit of research on quarantine practices; it's a very important part of owning multiple reptiles.

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Thanks will do.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

Thanks will do.

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here's a link to a thread here on the forum about it if you're interested! [emoji3]

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?t=74329

Congrats on your new addition. Definitely follow the quarantine advice above. Do some studying, read, read and read some more. The more you know about your new pets as a species the better you can properly care for them. The more the flourish, the more you enjoy your pets.

I noticed today Neo was cruising around the enclosure. Does that mean it might be time to try to feed him

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

I noticed today Neo was cruising around the enclosure. Does that mean it might be time to try to feed him

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have you corrected the husbandry issues we went over earlier in this thread?

cruising could also be a sign of stress; it's not always an indicator of hunger.