Additional Questions For an Amateur

Recently sold my fish aquarium and decided to venture into the snake world.

Currently looking at purchasing a normal ball python (prefer the color over the more expensive different colored ones) have done my research and read a lot of articles on their behaviour and care. Just had a few additional questions for you experts.

1) Looking at buying a Python that is still a juvenile, there are a few owners selling theirs for good prices. Would there be a particular Age you wouldn't recommend buying, or an Age you'd stay under.

2) Tank size, my aquarium was in the living room, was a 150 Gallon tank, took up a lot of room but really made the room shine. Regarding tank size for a snake, I see they don't require much space, but I'd prefer a bigger tank to make up for the space. However is this something you guys would recommend or is there an ideal size.

3) Cleaning, I see you should be cleaning at least once a week, but what about spot cleaning every couple days or picking up the feces. Or do they not really make a mess and a week is good enough?

4) Substrate, which one have you guys found works best, other than newspaper? Are they active climbers, are branches recommend?

5) Lightning and heating. Heating pads vs heat bulb? And if you use a heat bulb, does that count as your red light at night and you just use your house light during the day?

6) Last question, handling, how often do you guys do it and for how long. Can you do it multiple times during the day?

Sorry for all the questions but I've been following this forum and you guys definitely know more than the pet shop people and I just want to make sure I'm doing a good job.

Side question, decided to go with a Ball Python because I read they are probably the best starter snake, if I did Boa instead, would you recommend it or no?

Thanks in advance!

1. I think that you should be fine buying any age, but i do feel that you will like one that you got a a baby more than one that you got as an adult or juvinile.
2. for one ball python something like a 40 gallon breeder or a 41Q rubbermaid tub would be perfect.
3. Depends on the snake. Usually i can get by with spot cleaning every 3 or 4 days, then changing bedding entirely as needed. every two weeks or so.
4. they sometimes will climb as babies, but are not considered aboreal. I like to use coconut fiber, or papertowel works fine too. both help keep up the humidity.
5. I'm 100% for heat pad over bulb. Never use a "nighttime bulb" with a ball python or most lizards, they can still see the light and this can cause them stress. snakes do not require any special lighting except for simply 12 hours or so of light and 12 hours or so of dark. You should 100% go with a UTH (under tank heater) connected to a thermostat for your heat supply. THe thermostat is a 100% necessity, you have to have one otherwise you will eventually burn your snake to death with a malfunctining heat pad. DON"T RISK IT EVER! There are many affordable ones out there and most recomend one from "spyder robotics.
6. I handle almost every day, this lets me keep a good relationship with all my animals and keeps them used to me. As with any new reptile it is best to leave them be for 1-2 weeks before starting to handle in short sessions.


Extra credit: Ball pythons are great starter snakes because of their size and temperment. A boa is a much much larger animal, some reaching 9 feet occassionally. i would start with a ball python and see how you liek it before looking into a boa or another larger snake. I have kept both and ball pythons are nice because of the size, but boas are super inquisitive and fun to handle, plus they get larger :)


Good luck with your adventure, make sure to ask lots of questions, we don't bite!

Welcome to the forum and the world of snakes :)

1. You can choose any age but baby ball pythons are a bit more difficult. They're not always the most established eaters and it can be a drag to change from mice to rats. I personally would always suggest to get a semi-adult or adult since it's easier for beginners. If you want to get a hatchling, then make sure it has eaten at least 5 times on it's own and has shed a few times as well. If you want to feed F/T, then get a snake that already eats F/T.

2. I can't estimate what a 150 gallon tank looks like but I can tell you the rule we use here in Europe (for ball pythons). The tank should be:
2.1. For the length of the terrarium 1x the snake's length
2.2. For the height of the terrarium 0,75x the snake's length
2.3. For the width of the terrarium 1x the snake's length

3. I don't clean everything every week. I'd be out of substrate really quick then. Normally I spot clean when it's needed. I clean the water ball once a week and change the water every 2 to 3 days. I fully clean my terrarium once a month.

4. The substrate I use is cypress mulch. Young ball pythons are often climbers but it depends on the snake. There are adult ball pythons who like climbing as well. You'll what your snake prefers once you have had it for some time.

5. I use a CHE since I found that my ball python seems to dislike the heat pad. It was regulated by a 75$ thermostat which is known to be quite good so I doubt that it was because the heat pad was too hot. I have another LED light bulb which doesn't get warm as well as a dim night light. The CHE is also attached to a thermostat and it's also caged in. It is working the whole day.

6. I don't handle my snake since I feel like it would be for my pleasure not for his. If you do want to handle him, don't do it daily and not more than once a day. Once or twice a week would be okay in my opinion. Ball pythons get stressed very easily. Handling them too often can cause them to become defensive. They could also refuse to eat or hide all the time. Another thing is that you should not handle your snake after it ate. Leave it alone for at least two days.

7. Yes, I would recommend a ball python as a starter snake. But just like with ANY animal you need to do lots of research just like you are doing right now. I personally really like this book (from all the ones I've read): https://www.amazon.com/Python-regius...n+regius+kevin

I hope this was helpful.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Caali

2. I can't estimate what a 150 gallon tank looks like but I can tell you the rule we use here in Europe (for ball pythons). The tank should be:
2.1. For the length of the terrarium 1x the snake's length
2.2. For the height of the terrarium 0,75x the snake's length
2.3. For the width of the terrarium 1x the snake's length

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I'm sorry I meant: For the width of the terrarium 0,5x the snake's length :oops:

1) Any age is fine, just be sure the snake is already a well established eater. If you plan to feed frozen/thawed, make sure the snake is already accepting F/T.

2) 150 gallons is HUGE, even for an adult. If you're going glass, I wouldn't start any bigger than 20 gallons and even that is big for a first time keeper. Snakes rely very heavily on security, so the smaller the better, within reason.

3) I spot clean as needed. As soon as I see poop, pee or urates I spot clean that area. I do a thorough cleaning every few months, depending on the species. With BPs I do a full clean every 3 months or so.

4) As for substrate, I use a mix of eco-earth and repti-bark and have had no problems with it. I adjust the ratio seasonally to help with humidity control.
Some BPs climb more than others, especially as juveniles. But they tend to stay pretty terrestrial as adults. I do provide climbing branches, but often end up ditching them because they aren't used.

5) A Heat mat (UTH) is there solely to provide a hot spot. It is not there for ambient temps.
I have had success with the dark purple bulbs for years. They throw just enough light but not enough that it is bright at night. BPs don't require a light cycle.

VERY IMPORTANT: ALL heat sources should be regulated by a thermostat! VERY IMPORTANT as unregulated UTHs can spike to dangerous temps burning or even killing your snake. Bulbs can also spike creating dangerous temps which can cause health problems and even death.


6) Handling varies animal to animal. Some tolerate handling better than others. I highly suggest keeping handling to an absolute bare minimum until your snake has eaten 3 consecutive meals without refusal. Once the snake is acclimated and eating properly you can start with handling sessions. Start short and sweet, maybe 15 minutes 2-3 times per week. From there, let the snake determine how often and for how long.

Good luck!! Happy to help with any further questions as well.

For a beginner I would recommend buying an older snake. They can live 30 years, so if you buy a 3 year old adult, you are really not missing much. The adults will be much easier to feed and are usually much friendlier to handle and less likely to strike.


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Extremely helpful guys, I appreciate all the information. Definitely changing some things now.

Another question, do you guys ever just let your snake out of the cage to roam the house or you wouldn't recommend it?

Also if bitten by the snake, just a quick bite, anything to worry about, simple wash and disinfecting cream and bandage? Or is there a better way?

Thanks again!

Since you are leaning toward a larger enclosure I would recommend getting a female. On average, they are considerably larger than males.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hamsnacks

Extremely helpful guys, I appreciate all the information. Definitely changing some things now.

Another question, do you guys ever just let your snake out of the cage to roam the house or you wouldn't recommend it?

Also if bitten by the snake, just a quick bite, anything to worry about, simple wash and disinfecting cream and bandage? Or is there a better way?

Thanks again!

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No, I always supervise the snake if it is out of it's enclosure for two reasons - the environmental conditions are not correct for the species in most homes and the tendency of snakes to find the most awkward and irritating places to stuff themselves in. And that is before we consider the risk of them escaping down toilets, under doors etc.

The bites are largely inconsequential so washing the wound is all that is required. The only thing to keep an eye on is if a tooth gets stuck in the wound and needs to be removed.

no free roam haha, nothing like trying to get a snake our of your walls or out from under the fridge.

free roam only under supervision, and if the snake is massive. A youngling ball python could squeeze through/into just about anywhere. My buddy told me, a long time ago, (he no longer has snakes thank god, lol) he used to let his ball python roam around for days. He said it would get into his subwoofer and hangout, and he could never get it out without taking the entire speaker cabinet apart!
Also, what Dr del said, they will find the most obnoxious places to hide or escape, or climb around the house and knock down fragile objects.

Free roaming = bad idea. As some others have mentioned, they can and will find the tiniest, most inconvenient places to hide, or possibly escape and your pet is gone.
Supervised sessions only.
Also, it wasn't mentioned, but if you have other pets you should keep your snake separated from then as well.

As for bites, chances are your BP probably won't tag you. However, if you keep snakes long enough you're bound to get tagged eventually. Hang out at the barber shop long enough, you're bound to get a haircut.
If/when the time comes, try not to pull away (easier said than done, I know) which is normal human reaction, and just take the bite. Chances are it'll be a defensive strike and the snake will let go right away. Pulling away actually makes it worse on you and possibly could pull teeth out.
Typically, yes just soap and water.

1/2: Given the enclosure size you're wanting to work with, the closer to an adult the animal is, the better. A hatchling will be stressed in a large open space like a 150G without a lot of concessions like covering the sides, adding a lot of plants and hides, deep substrate, etc. Remember that they're prey animals and a happy BP is a BP that feels safe and secure.

3: Check daily for feces/urates. Clean them out as you see them. If you do this and use an absorbent substrate like coir, aspen, hemp, generally once a month for a complete cleanout is enough. Paper towels/paper will be more often.

4: I use shredded hemp. Get it for $1/2LB. Similar to aspen. Add in moss and other things if needed for humidity. Yes, they can climb. They're not arboreals but they will make use of climbing opportunities if provided, just try to not go upwards too far since they're clumsy climbers and may fall a lot. My adult male regularly makes use of a dowel ladder I made him for climbing, and I have seen others adults regularly use things like branches, repti-hammocks, and so on. Enrichment like this (along with good feeding) ensure a BP who is not overweight/obese.

5: In a large enclosure, you will need a pad (for digestion hot spot) and lamp (for ambient heat) unless you heat the room the enclosure is in to around 80F. A radiant heat panel is also a good option, since these animals need high humidity. ProPanels is nice to work with and will help you size one based on the enclosure you pick, tell you where to install it to provide a hotspot AND ambient heat, etc.

6: No handling 24HR before and 48HR after feeding. Minimize handling while shedding. Minimize handling if the animal is not eating. Otherwise this is touch and go. Some are OK with handling, some will huff and hiss for years and hate it. Go into this accepting your BP may not be a handling animal, only a display animal. Better to be surprised than disappointed. My adult male accepts handling regularly and will in fact sometimes tell us when he wants out by exiting the enclosure himself (or trying to) when I'm in there doing spot cleaning and other work. Not the same with all animals.

BPs are an OK starter, but require some specific husbandry. Absolutely NOTHING wrong with "simpler" snakes with less demanding husbandry such as milks, corns, kingsnakes, garters, etc. I'd even say some like sand boas are easier, while hognoses and the like have the same finicky eating issues but trade it off with less exact needs, etc.

Welcome into the snake world firstly.
I second what everyone has basically answered on your questions.

Just a warning though.

You Get Alcohol Addiction.
You Get Drug Addiction.
And then you Get Ball Python Addiction.

Enjoy the hobby. Heed the advice given.

The bp I had about 15 years ago got out of his enclosure and I couldn't find him anywhere. I was sitting on my couch and noticed some movement in a 12" subwoofer I had sitting in a corner and sure enough, there he was, coiled up inside the speaker. I had to dangle a mouse in front of it to lure him out. From that day on, I started putting a pin in the lock holes because he figured out how to disengage the latch. My little brother was messing with him while I was at work and didn't pin the lid down and he escaped. I never seen him again [emoji852]

Hi, I'm new to the snake world, I have had a lovely little ball python for about 4 months now (she was 6 months old when i got her), and she has been fine so far, but tonight during feeding the rat popped :confusd: and got some substrate stuck to it, and she has eaten it. I am really worried, what should i do? Please help!

P.S I have tried feeding her outside the viv before as I heard it was the best way to do it, but she refused 2 feeds in a row when i tried it :/

Thankyou x