Dexter Regurgitated Rats Twice This Month

So, my 2016 male Matrix Het T+ boy - Dexter had been looking like he was going to explode for about a month leading up until 12/09. He ate on 12/04 and the next day I discovered that he had regurgitated the rat. On 12/09 he finally exploded in his tub. It literally looked like a Saint Bernard took a dump and pee'd in there! lol Prior to that he had defecated on 9/14 and 10/23... He ate again on 12/11 without any problems. This past Monday on 12/18 he ate again and today I discovered that he regurgitated the partially digested rat again. Such a lovely sight and smell! :(

All temperatures and humidity levels are perfect... I never handle my snakes on feeding day or for at least 24 - 48 hours after they eat. Other than that I handle them every day/every other day for just a few minutes each. However, right at feeding time on 12/18 I discovered that Dexter had decided to flood his tub with pee. So, I immediately placed him in a fresh clean tub then I fed him. Do you guys have any idea why he would be regurgitating like this all of the sudden?

I would wait 3 to 4 weeks minimum before trying to feed after any regurg.
I would also double check husbandry.

Thanks, Pit! I will give him 3 weeks before feeding him again and see how it goes...

I had one of my females regurgitate a rat, I followed up the next day with another and she was OK. I figured she may have ingested coconut husk substrate along with the rat, it was a regurge probably an hour after feeding.

I have another ball python I've been struggling with, he is a male Albino Pied. He regurgitated almost all of his rats in the last couple months. I'm guessing since it's breeding season he is just getting moved around too much and weekend feedings followed by a breeding rotation is just too much for him. It's also possible that his double recessive genes are making him susceptible to it as well. This week I decided to give him an extra day before moving him to a female and I made sure to move him as little as possible when moving to the female tub. The funny thing is that he regures several days after the feeding so most of the rat is digested. He seems to be getting a bit weak and thin so I keep feeding him hoping that minimal handling will do the trick. If he regurges a couple more times I may just take him out of the female rotation for a month or so and not feed him at all for awhile.

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Originally Posted by cchardwick

I had one of my females regurgitate a rat, I followed up the next day with another and she was OK. I figured she may have ingested coconut husk substrate along with the rat, it was a regurge probably an hour after feeding.

I have another ball python I've been struggling with, he is a male Albino Pied. He regurgitated almost all of his rats in the last couple months. I'm guessing since it's breeding season he is just getting moved around too much and weekend feedings followed by a breeding rotation is just too much for him. It's also possible that his double recessive genes are making him susceptible to it as well. This week I decided to give him an extra day before moving him to a female and I made sure to move him as little as possible when moving to the female tub. The funny thing is that he regures several days after the feeding so most of the rat is digested. He seems to be getting a bit weak and thin so I keep feeding him hoping that minimal handling will do the trick. If he regurges a couple more times I may just take him out of the female rotation for a month or so and not feed him at all for awhile.

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I cannot believe what I just read?!?!?
Regurgitation is not normal or caused by genetics.
As an ethical breeder you should be more concerned with the health of your animals NOT the potential profit.
HE SHOULD HAVE BEEN TAKEN OUT OF ROTATION AFTER THE FIRST TIME!!!
Wanting to be a new and coming up breeder, actions like these are suicide for your business.
Ethics always comes first.
Your post shines a light you shouldn't have wanted.

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Originally Posted by cchardwick

I have another ball python I've been struggling with, he is a male Albino Pied. He regurgitated almost all of his rats in the last couple months. I'm guessing since it's breeding season he is just getting moved around too much and weekend feedings followed by a breeding rotation is just too much for him. It's also possible that his double recessive genes are making him susceptible to it as well. This week I decided to give him an extra day before moving him to a female and I made sure to move him as little as possible when moving to the female tub. The funny thing is that he regures several days after the feeding so most of the rat is digested. He seems to be getting a bit weak and thin so I keep feeding him hoping that minimal handling will do the trick. If he regurges a couple more times I may just take him out of the female rotation for a month or so and not feed him at all for awhile.

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Dude, this snake needs a vet visit, a month ago. In the meantime you need to stop breeding everything in case he had something contagious like parasites or crypto that was causing the regurges, you can't risk that being spread around any more than it already may have been.

Since your snake has regurgitated twice in a relatively short period of time, it would be beneficial to give him even longer than 3 weeks before attempting another meal. Give him a minimum of 4 weeks, and you may even want to consider 6 for a species with such a slow metabolism.

When you do offer food again, offer prey that is one size smaller than what you usually feed, and supplement with Nutribac ( http://www.mzrproducts.com/) to help re-establish beneficial gut flora. You can also try adding Nutribac to his water, or syringe it to him orally if you're comfortable doing so, during this resting period prior to offering food again. When a snake regurgitates, it throws positive gut flora out of whack. When the snake is fed too soon before that bacteria has a chance to repopulate, the snake will be more prone to regurgitation again, and subsequent feeding attempts can easily tip the scales into a negative situation.

It's an issue that is usually easy to sort out with some time and TLC, but it's also a process that can't be rushed. Also, not sure whether you are using an ambient-only approach to keeping your bloods/STPs. If so, you may want to consider adding a moderate basking spot of 86 degrees (F) to give him a little boost in that department as well.

Good luck - hope it is resolved soon & doesn't progress into a chronic issue. Regurgitation is not something commonly seen in bloods/STPs, but it can really do a number on them. :(

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Originally Posted by Kara

Since your snake has regurgitated twice in a relatively short period of time, it would be beneficial to give him even longer than 3 weeks before attempting another meal. Give him a minimum of 4 weeks, and you may even want to consider 6 for a species with such a slow metabolism.

When you do offer food again, offer prey that is one size smaller than what you usually feed, and supplement with Nutribac ( http://www.mzrproducts.com/) to help re-establish beneficial gut flora. You can also try adding Nutribac to his water, or syringe it to him orally if you're comfortable doing so, during this resting period prior to offering food again. When a snake regurgitates, it throws positive gut flora out of whack. When the snake is fed too soon before that bacteria has a chance to repopulate, the snake will be more prone to regurgitation again, and subsequent feeding attempts can easily tip the scales into a negative situation.

It's an issue that is usually easy to sort out with some time and TLC, but it's also a process that can't be rushed. Also, not sure whether you are using an ambient-only approach to keeping your bloods/STPs. If so, you may want to consider adding a moderate basking spot of 86 degrees (F) to give him a little boost in that department as well.

Good luck - hope it is resolved soon & doesn't progress into a chronic issue. Regurgitation is not something commonly seen in bloods/STPs, but it can really do a number on them. :(

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Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it. A good snake breeder friend of mine here in Pittsburgh also advised me to not feed him for at least 4 weeks, too. So, i'm definitely going to wait at least that long. He also suggested that I replace his water with purple Pedialyte for a few weeks to help him get his flora built back up. Do you guys think that would be alright?

The ambient temperature in my snake room is 75 degrees 24/7 and at the moment the ambient humidity in the room is 52%, but it has been more like 56% for the past week. They all have large water dishes in their tubs as well. All of my Bloods and Short Tails hot spots are reading 85 degrees and 75 degrees on the cool side. If I turn my thermostat up even just one more degree for these guys, most of them head straight to the cool side and plunge into their water dishes. They seem to get all fired up and bitey, too! lol

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Originally Posted by Aedryan Methyus

Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it. A good snake breeder friend of mine here in Pittsburgh also advised me to not feed him for at least 4 weeks, too. So, i'm definitely going to wait at least that long. He also suggested that I replace his water with purple Pedialyte for a few weeks to help him get his flora built back up. Do you guys think that would be alright?

The ambient temperature in my snake room is 75 degrees 24/7 and at the moment the ambient humidity in the room is 52%, but it has been more like 56% for the past week. They all have large water dishes in their tubs as well. All of my Bloods and Short Tails hot spots are reading 85 degrees and 75 degrees on the cool side. If I turn my thermostat up even just one more degree for these guys, most of them head straight to the cool side and plunge into their water dishes. They seem to get all fired up and bitey, too! lol

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4 weeks minimum and a small meal would be a good starting off point. You can use Pedialyte to help re-hydrate the snake, but keep in mind that it only offers electrolyte support. While this is beneficial in helping the snake return to sufficient hydration post-regurge, it doesn't directly impact the rebuilding of positive gut flora in the same manner that probiotics (i.e. Nutribac) do. Both are helpful, but only one provides support where it is needed most. If you do offer Pedialyte, keep an eye on Dexter's overall condition to ensure he isn't becoming dehydrated by avoiding drinking it. These snakes can be *exceedingly* picky and stubborn about their water sources, so it's just something else to watch for in the process.

The purpose of waiting so long to feed again after a regurgitation event is to allow the snake to recover that gut flora, and avoid the eventual "point of no return" if the snake continues to regurgitate. Using probiotics is an additional layer of support in this regard - yes, the snake will likely recover without them given enough time, but if the animal regurgitates again, you're back at square one on a much shorter clock. :( When you do feed again, give him a week off from handling. While 24-48 hours is usually fine, in a case like Dexter's it is helpful to minimize stress as much as possible. Small meals, minimal handling, 2 weeks between feedings until he has kept at least 4-6 meals down with no issue, and then a return to normal feeding schedule should be okay (knock on wood).

It sounds like you have an established thermal gradient, although ambient is a bit cooler than what may be optimal on a long-term basis. Bloods & STPs are definitely quirky when it comes to temperature - striking that balance between warm enough & too warm in a situation like this can be tricky. I'm sure you've already double-checked everything with a temp gun, but if not it wouldn't hurt to do so in an effort to rule out reasons why he regurgitated in the first place.

Again, best of luck in returning him to health. Regurgitations are sucky things, and it is always heartbreaking when a beloved animal isn't at 100%. Fingers crossed!

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Originally Posted by Kara

Since your snake has regurgitated twice in a relatively short period of time, it would be beneficial to give him even longer than 3 weeks before attempting another meal. Give him a minimum of 4 weeks, and you may even want to consider 6 for a species with such a slow metabolism.

When you do offer food again, offer prey that is one size smaller than what you usually feed, and supplement with Nutribac ( http://www.mzrproducts.com/) to help re-establish beneficial gut flora. You can also try adding Nutribac to his water, or syringe it to him orally if you're comfortable doing so, during this resting period prior to offering food again. When a snake regurgitates, it throws positive gut flora out of whack. When the snake is fed too soon before that bacteria has a chance to repopulate, the snake will be more prone to regurgitation again, and subsequent feeding attempts can easily tip the scales into a negative situation.

It's an issue that is usually easy to sort out with some time and TLC, but it's also a process that can't be rushed. Also, not sure whether you are using an ambient-only approach to keeping your bloods/STPs. If so, you may want to consider adding a moderate basking spot of 86 degrees (F) to give him a little boost in that department as well.

Good luck - hope it is resolved soon & doesn't progress into a chronic issue. Regurgitation is not something commonly seen in bloods/STPs, but it can really do a number on them. :(

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Great information Kara. How long do you recommend using a product like Nutribac? My BP had some regurgitation issues w/ the introduction of a new prey (rat pup) and I used this product for the next the next two feedings (smaller mice) but I wasn't sure how long to keep using it. Wasn't sure if it was a one time dosage or continual use.

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Originally Posted by ckuhn003

Great information Kara. How long do you recommend using a product like Nutribac? My BP had some regurgitation issues w/ the introduction of a new prey (rat pup) and I used this product for the next the next two feedings (smaller mice) but I wasn't sure how long to keep using it. Wasn't sure if it was a one time dosage or continual use.

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I would use it for the first 3 feedings after a regurgitation, then every other feeding for a total of three more. After that, depending on the snake’s overall condition, it can be used monthly or every other month for occasional support.

If the snake is a hard keeper (doesn’t thrive, not robust, just kind of poorly overall), it is important to note & try to get to the root of that problem, in which case a consult with a qualified herp vet would be appropriate.





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Originally Posted by Kara

I would use it for the first 3 feedings after a regurgitation, then every other feeding for a total of three more. After that, depending on the snake’s overall condition, it can be used monthly or every other month for occasional support.

If the snake is a hard keeper (doesn’t thrive, not robust, just kind of poorly overall), it is important to note & try to get to the root of that problem, in which case a consult with a qualified herp vet would be appropriate.





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Thanks for the advice. I'll continue to use as you mentioned. I think the root of the problem was the introduction of a rat pup from his normal mice feedings. He's since rejected the next two rat pups after successfully building him back up on smaller mice during the suggested regurgitation period. I'll continue to try each week and hopefully it will take.

Well, Nutribac is on it's way... It's not exactly cheap, but nothing is too good for my snakey poos... lol I take better care of them than I do myself and that's no BS! lol I just hope this passes for Dexter. He's such a sweet boy... Thanks for all of the great information you guys gave me about this!

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Originally Posted by Aedryan Methyus

Well, Nutribac is on it's way... It's not exactly cheap, but nothing is too good for my snakey poos...

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Fortunately you only need a tiny pinch of it to dust on a damp feeder to ensure your snake ingests it, so a bottle lasts for years.

Yeah... $16.00 (including shipping) isn't that bad, anyway, I guess... I was expecting to see $50.00 or something... lol I'm just going to have to figure out how much i'll need to put in his water for the next few weeks while he is off food, though. A syringe with water would definitely be best way to give it to him, but I don't know if i'll be able to do it. The last thing I would want to do (besides get bitten... lol) is stress him out or jeopardize any of the trust that i've established with him. He has always been a total sweetheart since day one other than a couple isolated incidents...

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Originally Posted by Aedryan Methyus

Yeah... $16.00 (including shipping) isn't that bad, anyway, I guess... I was expecting to see $50.00 or something... lol I'm just going to have to figure out how much i'll need to put in his water for the next few weeks while he is off food, though. A syringe with water would definitely be best way to give it to him, but I don't know if i'll be able to do it. The last thing I would want to do (besides get bitten... lol) is stress him out or jeopardize any of the trust that i've established with him. He has always been a total sweetheart since day one other than a couple isolated incidents...

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I wouldn't syringe him. At this point that would just cause more stress then it would be worth it. When they panic, they can fight quite hard! Treatments like this should be last resort..

Just use a smaller water dish, so you can frequently refresh it, you can also make sure he actually drinks it by keeping and eye on the water level. If he doesn't seem to drink it, I would also offer regular water. You want to make sure he keeps drinking, even if its just plain water.

I think he will be fine, you are very caring and on top of what should be done. Correct husbandry and a good long rest from eating and handling is the main thing for now. After that, take it slow and easy for a bit.

Listen to Kara, I believe she is the most knowledgeable person when it comes to Bloods and I would trust her implicitly with any advice she has regarding their care and recovery.

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Originally Posted by Aedryan Methyus

Yeah... $16.00 (including shipping) isn't that bad, anyway, I guess... I was expecting to see $50.00 or something... lol I'm just going to have to figure out how much i'll need to put in his water for the next few weeks while he is off food, though.

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You don't put nutribac in the water, it's sprinkled on the feeder once it's time to offer the next meal (after waiting weeks and offering something smaller as has been mentioned) - edit to add - it turns into a thick paste when wet. Also make sure to keep it refrigerated after opening.

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Originally Posted by AbsoluteApril

You don't put nutribac in the water, it's sprinkled on the feeder once it's time to offer the next meal (after waiting weeks and offering something smaller as has been mentioned) - edit to add - it turns into a thick paste when wet. Also make sure to keep it refrigerated after opening.

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I've never used this product or needed it, knock on wood. But its good to know that something like this exists. Re-establishing good gut flora can be immensely beneficial with any digestion issues..

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Originally Posted by AbsoluteApril

You don't put nutribac in the water, it's sprinkled on the feeder once it's time to offer the next meal (after waiting weeks and offering something smaller as has been mentioned) - edit to add - it turns into a thick paste when wet. Also make sure to keep it refrigerated after opening.

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The instructions on the bottle state to put the powder in the water. I read about sprinkling some on a damp f/t feeder to ensure the snake ingests some instead of messing with the snake's water, which to me makes more sense since that way you'll know the snake got treated.

Huh, okay, I believe it but that seems odd. I'll have to go re-read the one I have at home (dealing with a boa having off-and-on issues). When I put it on the feeder, if the feeder is wet, it turns into a sticky mess of a paste, I could only imagine how yucky this would make the water. I've been wrong plenty of times though lol
I put it on a dry feeder and just rub it under the fur, usually I concentrate mostly on the head since that goes in first.

I recently started receiving letters from my water company about how they have been finding elevated levels of lead in the drinking water in certain areas of the city due to lead water lines. Apparently, they have already begun replacing lead water lines and are claiming that it is homeowner's financial responsibilities to replace the lines leading into their homes from the property line. I beg to differ, but that's a whole other story! Anyway, I just called the water company and ordered a lead testing kit and I am immediately switching my snakes over to bottled water. Currently, they go through about 3 gallons of drinking water per week on average + however much I use to spray enclosures down when they are shedding. So, that won't be too awful bad, I guess. But, i'm also getting ready to start my own rat breeding program, so the additional amount of safe drinking water i'm going to have to start keeping on hand for the animals is going to sorta suck. Elevated levels of lead can't possibly be very good for reptiles. So far, Dexter is the only one that has shown any sort of digestive problem and I really hope lead isn't the cause, but it's better to be safe than sorry...

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Originally Posted by Aedryan Methyus

I recently started receiving letters from my water company about how they have been finding elevated levels of lead in the drinking water in certain areas of the city due to lead water lines. Apparently, they have already begun replacing lead water lines and are claiming that it is homeowner's financial responsibilities to replace the lines leading into their homes from the property line. I beg to differ, but that's a whole other story! Anyway, I just called the water company and ordered a lead testing kit and I am immediately switching my snakes over to bottled water. Currently, they go through about 3 gallons of drinking water per week on average + however much I use to spray enclosures down when they are shedding. So, that won't be too awful bad, I guess. But, i'm also getting ready to start my own rat breeding program, so the additional amount of safe drinking water i'm going to have to start keeping on hand for the animals is going to sorta suck. Elevated levels of lead can't possibly be very good for reptiles. So far, Dexter is the only one that has shown any sort of digestive problem and I really hope lead isn't the cause, but it's better to be safe than sorry...

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I feel your pain about water lines. We had a ruptured water line that just happened to be on the "our" side of the water meter. That was not a pretty ordeal nor a cheap one!

If you are consuming more water than it seem financially feasible for your snakes, an RO system is not that ridiculously expensive and will remove all particulates and contaminates. I had one hooked to an 80 gallon drum for my saltwater tanks. Saves a ton in the long run.

I'm not sure what's going to happen with the water situation here, but I feel that there definitely needs to be some legal actions taken. There is no way homeowners should be responsible for replacing lead water lines that were mandated by the city in the early 1900's! And, just from the little bit of research I started doing, a lot of people are saying that just by the water company starting to replace some of their lines, it is making the problem worse than if they would have just left them alone. For now, i'm going to be heading to Walmart this evening to buy a couple 5 gallon bottles of water and a dispenser, so I can keep my sssweet ssslithery friendsss sssafe and sssound...

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

I cannot believe what I just read?!?!?
Regurgitation is not normal or caused by genetics.
As an ethical breeder you should be more concerned with the health of your animals NOT the potential profit.
HE SHOULD HAVE BEEN TAKEN OUT OF ROTATION AFTER THE FIRST TIME!!!
Wanting to be a new and coming up breeder, actions like these are suicide for your business.
Ethics always comes first.
Your post shines a light you shouldn't have wanted.

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Funny I just read another post where he is breeding at 1100 cause they will be up to size in time. That’s a personal preference I guess but this is damn near animal abuse.

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Originally Posted by ElliotNess

Funny I just read another post where he is breeding at 1100 cause they will be up to size in time. That’s a personal preference I guess but this is damn near animal abuse.

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I think its more ignorance and greed. Thats the nice thing about pubic forums and breeders posting. Potential buyers can make up their own mind.

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Originally Posted by Aedryan Methyus

I'm not sure what's going to happen with the water situation here, but I feel that there definitely needs to be some legal actions taken. There is no way homeowners should be responsible for replacing lead water lines that were mandated by the city in the early 1900's! And, just from the little bit of research I started doing, a lot of people are saying that just by the water company starting to replace some of their lines, it is making the problem worse than if they would have just left them alone. For now, i'm going to be heading to Walmart this evening to buy a couple 5 gallon bottles of water and a dispenser, so I can keep my sssweet ssslithery friendsss sssafe and sssound...

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Actually you are wrong. The line on your property, leading to your house was installed privately, by a private plumbing contractor on your private property, and is YOURS. I’ve been a plumber for 20 years, if you can’t afford plumbing repairs, don’t own a home. If you can afford it, then just hire a plumber and get it done for your health and the health of your animals.
I lost my home in the recession, it bothers me when people act entitled and don’t want to take responsibility for their home maintenance.


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Originally Posted by Godzilla78

If you can afford it, then just hire a plumber and get it done

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Or do it yourself. I dont call anyone for anything...... Well except for 220v.... That one kind of hurts a little! Dont ask just trust me. :rofl:

Sorry to get off topic a bit. Happy holidays friends, and no hard feelings Aedryan, I just have peeves and pathetic self-control with my mouth. Lol


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Originally Posted by Godzilla78

Sorry to get off topic a bit. Happy holidays friends, and no hard feelings Aedryan, I just have peeves and pathetic self-control with my mouth. Lol


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d652f97668.jpg



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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

Or do it yourself. I dont call anyone for anything...... Well except for 220v.... That one kind of hurts a little! Dont ask just trust me. :rofl:

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I don’t recommend plumbing DIY on major jobs. Minor jobs, sure. But underground utilities, no.
I have seen hundreds of homes destroyed by water damage because of DIY cheapskate work! Lol. Sewage in homes, water floods, bursting water heaters, you name it!
If you know all the health and safety plumbing codes regarding the job, and the proper materials and installation methods, then by all means.
I know you are mechanically inclines Pit, and probably would do research first, so I can see you pulling it off... maybe, half-assed. :P


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Remember on these festive days that Mario was a plumber and he ended up saving the princess even though at first she was in another castle. Plumbers can do anything they set there mind to or AB AB ↑ ↓ ← →

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Originally Posted by SDA

Remember on these festive days that Mario was a plumber and he ended up saving the princess even though at first she was in another castle. Plumbers can do anything they set there mind to or AB AB ↑ ↓ ← →

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That’s right! Haha, and now, back to our regularly scheduled programming... regurgitated rats! :P


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Originally Posted by Godzilla78

I don’t recommend plumbing DIY on major jobs. Minor jobs, sure. But underground utilities, no.
I have seen hundreds of homes destroyed by water damage because of DIY cheapskate work! Lol. Sewage in homes, water floods, bursting water heaters, you name it!
If you know all the health and safety plumbing codes regarding the job, and the proper materials and installation methods, then by all means.
I know you are mechanically inclines Pit, and probably would do research first, so I can see you pulling it off... maybe, half-assed.

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Always to code. Being a mechanic I always have other trades people to contact. I never half anything, if you cant do it right the first time you wont have time or money to do it right a second time. :gj:

Either way I am just as guilty of a.d.d. on this thread. We need to get it back on the tracks of the OP.

Spent over $1000 running an entire new water line from the meter to under the house. There was now way I was going to do something like this. It was worth every penny. It was also about 300 feet of pipe so I feel we got a deal.

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

Always to code. Being a mechanic I always have other trades people to contact. I never half anything, if you cant do it right the first time you wont have time or money to do it right a second time. :gj:

Either way I am just as guilty of a.d.d. on this thread. We need to get it back on the tracks of the OP.

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I know you are mechanic, my post was in jest! Respect.


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Originally Posted by Godzilla78

Actually you are wrong. The line on your property, leading to your house was installed privately, by a private plumbing contractor on your private property, and is YOURS. I’ve been a plumber for 20 years, if you can’t afford plumbing repairs, don’t own a home. If you can afford it, then just hire a plumber and get it done for your health and the health of your animals.
I lost my home in the recession, it bothers me when people act entitled and don’t want to take responsibility for their home maintenance.


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Actually, you don't have a clue what you're talking about... And, what bothers me is rude people...

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Originally Posted by Aedryan Methyus

Actually, you don't have a clue what you're talking about... And, what bothers me is rude people...

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Ok. Been plumbing 20 years, and replaced dozens of underground water service lines. But I have no clue, sorry. I am terrible at sounding rude. My apologies

Seriously, my communication can be overtly blunt, I will try to be more polite in the forum. Apologies to all.

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No he does. I can guarantee you that in every state in the Union the water line into your house from the meter is 100% your responsibility. the only utilities where that is an exception is power and gas due to safety reasons. Private companies like cable and fiber are exceptions if you have a contract but water is never that way.

What I meant by not having a clue is, there are a lot of other factors involved in this particular situation regarding the purchase of my house and the laws. You don't have enough information to possibly know anything about it. Long story short, I was the victim of a real estate predator 12 years ago when I bought my house. But, none of that has anything to do with snakes regurgitating rats...

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Originally Posted by Aedryan Methyus

What I meant by not having a clue is, there are a lot of other factors involved in this particular situation regarding the purchase of my house and the laws. You don't have enough information to possibly know anything about it. Long story short, I was the victim of a real estate predator 12 years ago when I bought my house. But, none of that has anything to do with snakes regurgitating rats...

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I just over-reacted to the part about, “class-action lawsuit”, it’s nobodies fault you have lead in your pipes, they are just outdated and need replacing. I have no idea what happened when you bought your home, so in that regard I have no clue, and I apologize, I didn’t understand your view properly and typed in hasty reaction.


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Again back on track before we have to lock this one too......

So how's everyone liking nutribac? I hope to never have a regurg but I was tempted to get some after my GTP's prolapse.

So, Dexter defecated a little again already and also flooded his tub with pee again. It seems odd that he would be defecating again already after just taking such a massive dump on 12/09. Seeing how he had looked like he was going to pop for a month or so leading up to 12/09 and he is defecating again already, is it possible that he was backed up and maybe that's why he regurgitated? The Nutribac arrived today, but i'm a little confused about how to give it to him. It specifically says in the directions, "Never allow powder to mix in water (caking occurs)". This stuff is intended to dust the rodents before feeding, but everyone has advised me to not feed him for 4 - 6 weeks...

For now his belly is resting and his digestive system recovering. The Nutribac will help his digestive system dealing with the meal when you feed him next. Wait the recommended time and then feed a smaller rodent sprinkled with the Nutribac. Bloods are notorious about pooping rarely but massively. Perhaps he did get a little dehydrated at some point and backed up somewhat. I think it's now recommended to feed them conservatively...and not going by their girth. Perhaps Kara will pop in again. She should know more about this..


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I mixed about a tablespoon of Nutribac in with his water and it dissolved fine. It just sucks not being 100% sure that he's drinking or if it's enough Nutibac...

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Originally Posted by Aedryan Methyus

It specifically says in the directions, "Never allow powder to mix in water (caking occurs)". This stuff is intended to dust the rodents before feeding, but everyone has advised me to not feed him for 4 - 6 weeks...

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Okay so I'm not crazy lol yeah my bottle says the same. I'd never heard of mixing it in the water before. But, hey, if it helps, it helps.
Yes, it dusts the feeder, it's fine to wait until the feeding to give it. It helps with digestion.

Adding Nutribac to drinking water helps to give your snake another opportunity to get some beneficial bacteria into his system prior to feeding. Dust it lightly across the surface of the water & whisk in, repeat as necessary. You'll want to change water no later than every other day, preferably every day, if you go with this method. It just takes a gram or so of the powder, but it's also easy to go through it pretty quickly using this route. Not the optimal method, but better than nothing.

This is why mixing a slurry with NB & water and syringing it to the snake is usually the fastest way to get that initial dose in. To do so, the snake should be restrained in an appropriately-sized restraint tube, and held gently, but firmly, by an assistant. The person doing the dosing opens the snake's mouth with a stiff rubber spatula so there's no damage to the snake's teeth or gums, and quickly syringes the slurry down the snake's throat. Definitely not fun, but neither is watching a python decline due to regurgitation issues. The good news is it (usually) only needs to be done once.

As far as the caution against letting the Nutribac come into contact with water, this is with regard to it being used to dust rodents, and also to ensure it is stored properly. Exposed to water/humidity (i.e. left uncapped or with a measure of the powder intended for use but left sitting out), it will become cakey depending upon the amount of water and length of exposure. Same goes for dusting rodents with it - the rodents don't need to be sopping wet. It helps to spritz them with a sprayer (preferably a fine mist), then shake off any excess water prior to dusting. A damp rodent and and a fine dusting of Nutribac typically get the job done without issue.

So...not the most glamorous aspect of herpetoculture by far. In the days before commercially-available probiotics, snakes with chronic regurge issues were force-fed feces from healthy snakes of the same species to help re-establish gut flora. Good times. :puke2:

I pray I never need to use this stuff for a regurg but it is good to know others swear by it. I think I will avoid it for a prolapse and stick with the reptile vitamin drops I have in the water for immune boosting.

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Originally Posted by Kara

In the days before commercially-available probiotics, snakes with chronic regurge issues were force-fed feces from healthy snakes of the same species to help re-establish gut flora...

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OMG! Now, that sounds like a reeeeaaal good time! lol

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Originally Posted by Aedryan Methyus

OMG! Now, that sounds like a reeeeaaal good time! lol

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Off topic, I know, but that actually was AND IS highly effective.

It is being used in human medicine as well, although, the "material" is "re-fined" and given through a tube ;) It seems to be the only thing that helps with severe and antibiotic resistant diseases in the digestive tract..