Boa or Blood Python??

Hey guys! I have been given the go ahead for another snake! This will be around March of 2018 or possibly a bit later. As you may know I currently own a Ball Python. I have been reading up on Boas(BCI) and Blood Pythons. I have also been looking at Boa vs Blood threads but can't find anything reverent to my situation. From what I've read Bloods have more specific needs than other snakes,and also get bigger. I'd like some advice on what you think :) Also I'll be able to get a nice PVC cage with a RHP and a herpstat

Bloods get big as in girth which means they can get over 20 pounds. I think one recently topped over 70 pounds. If you want something in the boa family that is not as long as a BC than rainbows or hog islands might be something to look into. Now boas don't get all that huge so it's not like you will end up with a 14 foot monster.

I think an nice male hog island can be perfectly happy forever in a 4 foot cage.

I do like Rainbow Boas although if I was to ever get one it would be a leusiatic. The length/girth disentangle really doesn't concern me as long as its not a burm or retic. I really love the beautiful sausage noodles that blood pythons are. Feel free to suggest other species too,I forgot to add that to my original post. Please note I would never buy an animal that I couldn't properly care for!

I have a blood, so I'll share some of what I know. They've got a slower metabolism so they really shouldn't be fed more than a bp, even though they can get more than twice the weight of one. They are more advanced than bps, but if you did a lot of research you could probably handle it. As far as I know, they should be kept in tubs until they hit about a year old and then you can move them into tanks. They are rather sedate, so if you want something more lively I'd look at other snakes.

Would a tub inside the PVC enclosure work? There's a member on here who did something similar for a small MBK. My ambient house temps arnt really high enough for a tub by itself.

I think someone here had a similar quarantine setup, A tub inside a vision cage with a RHP. That might work.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...ller-container
Here's an example of what I was thinking. What would be the best kind of enclosure for a blood?

You could do that, bloods can be kept at 82ish degrees so you could put the tub right under the RHP.

It really depends on what sort of personality you would like most. Blood Python's needs aren't anymore difficult to accommodate than a Boa or Ball Python. They simply just like cooler temperatures on their warm side is all. They are much easier to care for than Ball Pythons in my opinion, simply because they rarely ever turn down a meal. Between the Boas and Bloods, personality and joy of handling goes to Boas hands down. They say Ball Pythons are the pet rocks of the snake world, but I think that title should go to Blood Pythons as much as I love them. But, if you're looking for something different of stunning beauty that reaches the nice, fat girthy size of a Burmese or Retic, but without the un-handleable length, Blood Pythons are where it's at! They are great lap snakes, but they don't really coil around you. Most of mine seem to enjoy crawling around on me and looking around and exploring, though. Their dispositions are much less forgiving than a Boa or Ball Python, but with proper regular handling most of them are perfectly docile and they mellow out even more with age. I highly recommend hook training with all snakes, but with Bloods especially. You wouldn't catch me sticking my hand in their enclosures without making sure they're awake and know it's coming first! lol Between my Bloods, Borneos and Sumatrans, I think I would have to say I favor my Sumatrans. Their colors are just out of this world! But, I love dark snakes... Just in case you don't already know, Bloods are the largest of the three species, followed by Borneos and Sumatrans are generally the smallest of the three...

Hands down, BCI or BCC all the way.....or a retic. But then again, I'm biased towards those two. Boas are pretty simple to take care of and even if you dont interact with them every day or even every week, they still stay docile assuming you worked with them as a baby.

And retics, Caesar is the only snake ive ever seen that i felt was needy lol. When he's not in shed, he is actually pretty social and always out at night sitting infront of the door i usually leave open for him like he's waiting for me to pet him. I slide the door open and he stands up, looks at me and then lays down by me while i pet him or he will lay his head on my arm. I know snakes dont have feelings like that but i swear Caesar likes the attention lol. If i wander away and sit down to watch tv, he will slide down the cage stack to the floor and explore lol.

I have never owned a blood python but since I'm limited to probably something like 10-12 snakes, there isnt enough room for stuff other than BCI, BCC and retic :D

I'd love to have an SD retic but as I understand it retics are illegal to keep in Iowa, as are Anacondas and most hots as well as hognoses. I really like boas but I love the bright reds of the bloods and the shape of their heads is awesome.

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Originally Posted by BallPythonWannaBe

I'd love to have an SD retic but as I understand it retics are illegal to keep in Iowa, as are Anacondas and most hots as well as hognoses. I really like boas but I love the bright reds of the bloods and the shape of their heads is awesome.

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Well that sucks. I am sad to say you are missing out on the pleasure(and sometimes headthrobbing headache) of owning a retic lol. They really do look you in the face and it seems like they know you and are actually thinking like....'if i ever grow bigger than that guy, i am gong to have one heck of a feast' lol.

And you want red?? Check out the tail on Gina!! And don't mind the coiled up shocked look she has. I had to boop her snoot to get to sit there as she was much more interested in wandering around instead of sitting for a camera lol.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...e055a71a_h.jpg

That Suriname is beautiful! I'd love to just get both but as a 14 year old in high school,with only a part time job it just isn't feasible :rolleyes:

So I might go with the Blood Python :D What would be the best setup?? Also what brand of PVC cage do you use? Are drop down doors the best? or are swing/sliding doors alright? Also what substrate do you use?

What kind of Blood Python ??

Normal or a BLACK !!

Blacks are rather beautiful in my opinion ..


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Prohttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a2924482fa.jpg

Oh that reminds me, where are you going to get your blood from? Any breeders you have in mind?

Honestly I haven't looked at many breeders outside of MorphMarket. And that black blood is beautiful! Any recomendations on breeders?

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Originally Posted by BallPythonWannaBe

Honestly I haven't looked at many breeders outside of MorphMarket. And that black blood is beautiful! Any recomendations on breeders?

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I got my Blood off a local breeder, I would go to The Blood Cell or Reptillis. I'm sure you know to avoid Backwater, Underground, and BHB.

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Originally Posted by MD_Pythons

I got my Blood off a local breeder, I would go to The Blood Cell or Reptillis. I'm sure you know to avoid Backwater, Underground, and BHB.

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I was actually looking at those two and am part of the blood python forum. I think I might go with The Blood Cell but I am still looking at MorphMarket

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Originally Posted by BallPythonWannaBe

So I might go with the Blood Python :D What would be the best setup?? Also what brand of PVC cage do you use? Are drop down doors the best? or are swing/sliding doors alright? Also what substrate do you use?

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If you are starting out with a hatchling, you won't need anything larger than a 28 qt. tub for at least a couple of years... 28 qt. is even technically too large for hatchlings and juveniles, but I consumed all of the extra space with wadded up newspaper when mine were still little and they were fine. I still have a 2015 female Blood comfortably in my 28 qt. rack. She will be getting bumped up into a 41 qt. rack within the next year, though. As far as PVC enclosures, I will be building all of my own when the time comes... I highly recommend newspaper (or craft paper) over any substrate for any snake. It's much more sanitary, easier to clean, no risk of the snakes swallowing substrate and developing major digestive problems and... It's basically FREE! lol

As far as breeders, I would recommend ME in the future... lol But, that's probably still going to be a couple more years, unfortunately... As for now, I would recommend Reptillis Herps or Reptile Rapture...

Have you decided on a Blood, Borneo or Sumatran ("Black Blood") yet?

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Originally Posted by Aedryan Methyus

If you are starting out with a hatchling, you won't need anything larger than a 28 qt. tub for at least a couple of years... 28 qt. is even technically too large for hatchlings and juveniles, but I consumed all of the extra space with wadded up newspaper when mine were still little and they were fine. I still have a 2015 female Blood comfortably in my 28 qt. rack. She will be getting bumped up into a 41 qt. rack within the next year, though. As far as PVC enclosures, I will be building all of my own when the time comes... I highly recommend newspaper (or craft paper) over any substrate for any snake. It's much more sanitary, easier to clean, no risk of the snakes swallowing substrate and developing major digestive problems and... It's basically FREE! lol

As far as breeders, I would recommend ME in the future... lol But, that's probably still going to be a couple more years, unfortunately... As for now, I would recommend Reptillis Herps or Reptile Rapture...

Have you decided on a Blood, Borneo or Sumatran ("Black Blood") yet?

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I think I just want a Normal Blood Python :D Would a cluttered 28q under the RHP work? I'll keep you in mind for the future in case I want another!

I've never used radiant heat panels, so I don't know much about them other than you would definitely still need to use a thermostat. All of my tubs are in melamine racks and I use THG heat tape for under-belly heat. For my 28 qt. rack I use 6" and for my 41 qt. rack I use 12". Whatever you use, the hot spot should occupy about 30% of whatever type of enclosure you're using...

I knew about UG and Backwater but why BHB?

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Originally Posted by BallPythonWannaBe

I think I just want a Normal Blood Python :D Would a cluttered 28q under the RHP work? I'll keep you in mind for the future in case I want another!

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That might be a tight fit for a RHP. I have seen someone turn a rubbermaid tub on its side and use a RHP so it is doable but just check the dimensions of the RHP and make sure you give no less than 6 inches clearance below it so you would need taller than normal. I would say a 56 or 64 quart tub would be a smarter idea with a RHP.

Something like this would be much safer with an RHP as to utilize it you would really need it inside the tub not above it. Now if you got a CHE on a pole you could maybe use it to heat the area enough to raise ambient temps without harming the plastic lid.

https://i.imgur.com/BoMmTh0.jpg


It's amazing what you can cobble together as a temporary/quarantine tank. Here is what I did with an UTH as an overhead heater and a 50 watt CHE on a dimmer as supplemental heat. I maintain 82-84 throughout the day/night so it keeps my baby warm. Remember this is only a temporary solution until you have them through quarantine and ready for a permanent home.

https://i.imgur.com/mplKTeg.jpg

Thanks but I was more thinking putting the tub inside the pvc enclosure

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Originally Posted by BallPythonWannaBe

Thanks but I was more thinking putting the tub inside the pvc enclosure

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Minimal height restrictions still apply. You need no less than 6 inches of clearance so as long as you have that it should be ok. I would give a little more than that for a tub to avoid warping.

I was thinking something like a T10?

Oh that would work so long as the tub isn't too high. You could always get a sub adult and skip the who tub thing LOL

....I actually feel really stupid right now. I never thought about a subadult! :rolleye2: A subadult would probably also be a more established, and thus more reliable, feeder too.

PM me with details on where you are in Iowa. I'm in Iowa too, and if you'd like to see some larger blood & short-tailed pythons in person & get a feel for what handling and working with them is like, I could potentially mentor you. :)

I would LOVE to take you up on that but I'm really just too busy. I've got school, a part time job and than home stuff. :oops: It would be awesome, thanks for the offer!

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Originally Posted by BallPythonWannaBe

I would LOVE to take you up on that but I'm really just too busy. I've got school, a part time job and than home stuff. :oops: It would be awesome, thanks for the offer!

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No worries - I certainly understand how busy life can get. If things change in the future & you want to get some hands-on blood python experience, feel free to reach out. :)

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Originally Posted by BallPythonWannaBe

....I actually feel really stupid right now. I never thought about a subadult! :rolleye2: A subadult would probably also be a more established, and thus more reliable, feeder too.

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Good luck finding a sub-adult or adult Blood Python for sale, though... I searched the internet high and low before I started buying all of mine a year ago with no luck, because I wanted to speed up the wait time for breeding as much as possible. So, I had to start with hatchlings and juveniles. I found one site in particular (not mentioning any names) that advertised sub-adults and adults for sale, but then refused to sell them after insisting that I fill out some ridiculous "Prospective Owner Application", wanting to know all kinds of personal things that was none of their business on top of other completely unprofessional hassles that whole unfortunate experience entailed...

Anyway... If you haven't ever worked with Blood Pythons before it's not a bad idea to start with a hatchling or juvenile. That would be my recommendation, actually... Even though, most of them tame down pretty well, their general demeanor is much more intimidating than any other species i've worked with. The last thing you want to do is show these guys any fear or let them think you are intimidated. They can put on quite a show until trust has been established! lol One of my Borneos started out sweet as can be for the first month or so then just completely changed overnight a couple of months ago and is still acting schizo. With all but two of my other ones, it was the exact opposite. They acted schizo for for about the first month or so, but have been puppy dog tame ever since with the exception of a couple isolated incidents. If you start out with a hatchling or juvenile you can grow and build trust together. Fortunately, I haven't ever been bitten yet, but I think it's pretty safe to say that a larger Blood Python could do a lot of damage. Just some things for you to consider...

Another nice boa is the dumerils boa. Doesn't get that big, keeps the pretty head

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Originally Posted by xShevi

Another nice boa is the dumerils boa. Doesn't get that big, keeps the pretty head

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I have looked at Durmerils but I just keep coming back to the bloods.:D

Oh, just a bit of information from a talk mom and I had last night. I wanted to make it clear that Bloods get BIG. Not retic big but much bigger than Dean. She said she was okay as long as it didnt eat the rabbits :rolleyes: FYI our smallest rabbit is 11 pounds(they are flemish giants and their parents were 18 pounds!)

I'm guessing you keep your rabbits in the house and let them run around? Will you be keeping the snake somewhere away from the rabbit smell? lol

The rabbits do get out and run around but are in a giant cage most of the time. I also assured her that the snake cage would have locks on it :D

I would be far more concerned about an adult rabbit confronting a poor baby blood python than a blood python gaining a blood lust for rabbit

I would suggest a boa over a ball python. For me personally boas seem to have so much personality. They are very very fun snakes to handle because of their size. Not too big, not too small. They are just right. They are smart, inquisitive snakes that i think are very rewarding to keep. There also are some really really really cool morphs. I personally love the sunglows, moonglows, and Dumerils boas. +1 for boas from me.

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Originally Posted by SDA

I would be far more concerned about an adult rabbit confronting a poor baby blood python than a blood python gaining a blood lust for rabbit

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Thats what I told my mom :P Especially since the rabbit in question is around 12-13 pounds

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Originally Posted by dylan815

I would suggest a boa over a ball python. For me personally boas seem to have so much personality. They are very very fun snakes to handle because of their size. Not too big, not too small. They are just right. They are smart, inquisitive snakes that i think are very rewarding to keep. There also are some really really really cool morphs. I personally love the sunglows, moonglows, and Dumerils boas. +1 for boas from me.

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I really love my Ball Python even though hes a bit boreing at times :D

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Originally Posted by BallPythonWannaBe

The rabbits do get out and run around but are in a giant cage most of the time. I also assured her that the snake cage would have locks on it :D

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Yeah.... Be careful haha, you never know what an animal will do when present with food way to big. You can never be too careful. my dad had a friend in high school who had a retic and the family got a new kitten. Someone wasn't paying attention and the retic got ahold of the kitten. There was nothing they could do as the retic coiled around it so fast and was so amazingly strong..... Irresponsible Pet owners. :(

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Originally Posted by BallPythonWannaBe

Thats what I told my mom :P Especially since the rabbit in question is around 12-13 pounds

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I really love my Ball Python even though hes a bit boreing at times :D

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I love my ball python, but i don't think ill ever buy another one. My hearts been stolen by retics.... And so has my wallett......

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Originally Posted by dylan815

Yeah.... Be careful haha, you never know what an animal will do when present with food way to big. You can never be too careful. my dad had a friend in high school who had a retic and the family got a new kitten. Someone wasn't paying attention and the retic got ahold of the kitten. There was nothing they could do as the retic coiled around it so fast and was so amazingly strong..... Irresponsible Pet owners. :(

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I love my ball python, but i don't think ill ever buy another one. My hearts been stolen by retics.... And so has my wallett......

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I'd love an SD retic but they are illegal to keep here :( Thats horrible! I would never have a snake out at the same time as another pet

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Originally Posted by BallPythonWannaBe

I'd love an SD retic but they are illegal to keep here :( Thats horrible! I would never have a snake out at the same time as another pet

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Where are you located?

My concern with the yummy smell of rabbit filling the air would be keeping the Blood in constant feeding mode and getting bit all the time. Most of my Bloods and Short Tails turn into ravenous beasts on feeding day as the rats are thawing out in the snake room. It is very difficult to even slide their tubs out to feed them, because they immediately lung out of their tubs snapping at the first thing they see... lol My Boas are even worse... You can't even walk past the rack without them striking the front of their tubs. I don't have my new SD Retics in my possession yet, but from what I understand, they will probably be even worse on feeding day...

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Originally Posted by dylan815

Where are you located?

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Iowa. So no hogs or hots either.

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Originally Posted by Aedryan Methyus

My concern with the yummy smell of rabbit filling the air would be keeping the Blood in constant feeding mode and getting bit all the time. Most of my Bloods and Short Tails turn into ravenous beasts on feeding day as the rats are thawing out in the snake room. It is very difficult to even slide their tubs out to feed them, because they immediately lung out of their tubs snapping at the first thing they see... lol My Boas are even worse... You can't even walk past the rack without them striking the front of their tubs. I don't have my new SD Retics in my possession yet, but from what I understand, they will probably be even worse on feeding day...

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Ah. That could be a problem. Besides the bedroom the cage could be in the kitchen or the bathroom

Hey guys! So I have been looking at Bloods and I found three morphs like :rolleyes: Black Bloods(Kinda confused on this as i dont know if they are bloods or a diffrent sub-species of Short-tail) Ivory(Super Matrix) and Matrix. I talked it over with my mom and she gave me the go-ahead if I want to get two. My dilmena is that I'd rather buy a small rack to put them in at first and than when they need it, upgrade to PVC cages or a DIY iris x-mas tree tub rack. Any input on this? I was thinking a VE-2 rack?

"Black Bloods" are a different species of python. And I can't help with racks, I don't use them.

Blood Pythons, Borneo Short Tail Pythons and Sumatran Short Tail Pythons ("Black Bloods") are 3 different species. Generally, Bloods are the largest of the 3 species, Borneos are the second largest and Sumatrans are the smallest... If you are thinking about breeding them in the future make sure you get 2 of the same species and keep their bloodlines pure. As interesting as cross breeding these species might seem like it would be you would only get brown snakes, anyway. Matrix are of the Blood Python species and breeding Matrix x Matrix will produce Ivory. 25% of the clutch would be Ivory if you hit the odds.

I would recommend building your own 28 qt. melamine rack. They are very simple and cheap to build. The prices companies are charging for simple little rack systems are absurd! I also highly recommend building the type with the sides and back enclosed. They maintain heat and humidity much more than the open type. Here is the 10 - 28 qt. rack I built:

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...ake-Rack-Build

And, my 10 - 41 qt. rack:

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...ake-Rack-Build


Everyone will tell you the smaller the tub the better for hatchlings, but I started all of mine off in 28 qt. tubs and just filled the extra space with wadded up newspaper in addition to a hide and a large water dish. I had no problems whatsoever with them and they fit comfortably in 28 qt. tubs for at least the first couple of years. Then they can get bumped up to 41 qt. racks or 4' x 2' x 12" PVC enclosures.