Budget friendly Ball Python cage ($60 set-up)

Hey friends, I just recently purchased my very first ball python. I had done a ton of research on temperatures, humidity, etc.

After first using this inexpensive set-up, I was concerned that it was too easy and I had done something wrong. So, I emailed BHB reptiles (online snake market and YouTuber that many of you probably know about) with a description of my set-up. I got a reply from an executive verifying that this set-up was perfectly safe and reasonable for a ball python.

My albino ball python, Casper, is a little over one year old.

I began by purchasing a Rubbermade bucket from Walmart. No matter what the size, most Rubbermade buckets at Walmart will cost around $12. I bought one for this price with a locking lid to ensure Casper wouldn't escape. I'll let y'all figure out what size you need based on the snake. You will want to poke some holes in this container to allow for ventilation. I put holes in my cage ever 1.5 inches. Each hole is 0.5 inches in diameter. I don't own a soldering gun, so I used an electric drill. Make sure and clean out any plastic shards that fall into your cage. You don't want your ball python to ingest them.

I then purchased a small, white plastic basket. These can be found in the container section of Walmart as well. Mine is a little under a foot long and 6 inches wide. With scissors (strong ones) I cut open a doorway in this basket. Then I used duct tape to cover up the holes on the outside so that the enclosure would be dark (ball pythons like dark, closed spaces). Make sure if you have to cover up the holes on the outside with duct tape that you put duct tape on the inside as well. Otherwise, the sticky side of the duct tape will show on the inside of the cage and you risk your snake getting stuck. It's not dangerous, but cover it as a courtesy. Again, y'all can decide how large you want your plastic basket, what color, what style, etc. But my plastic basket cost me $2.

Now, that covers the cage and the hiding spot. Some people say that ball pythons need two hiding spots. I'll explain why you don't need two in a moment.

On to the substrate. At first, I was using some of the coconut dirt mixtures. While this substrate is perfectly fine, I highly recommend newspaper instead. It's much easier to clean and replace. Newspaper is also cheap or even free in most cases, whereas a bag a substrate will cost about $10.

Casper generally is in one of two places. He is either in the hiding spot, or he is hiding in the newspaper on the other side of the cage. This is why Casper doesn't need two hiding spots. The main reason that people say you need two hiding spots is to give your snake one hiding spot that is heated, and another that is on the cool side. Newspaper substrate provides the perfect cool side hiding spot. Your ball python will find a way to get under it easily. It provides an enclosed space for your ball python that covers him and will make him feel secure. No reason to purchase another hiding spot.

Now onto the stuff that y'all are probably most wondering about: Temperature and humidity.

Let me start by clearing up a common misconception. When I first bought Casper, I knew from research that one side of the cage needed to be hot, and the other needed to be cold. I didn't know the best way to do this, so I bought a heat pad to put it under the cage.

After setting up the cage and putting Casper in it, I noticed after a few days that the over-all temperature had stayed at 75 degrees. Anybody who has researched ball pythons knows that this could be a dangerous temperature for ball pythons to live in. That being said, my heat pad was set to 94 degrees. Casper seemed to regularly be resting in his hiding spot (over the heat pad) comfortably, and still explored the rest of the cage without looking like he was freezing. So, my question was, if Casper has a spot he can rest on whose ground heat is 95 degrees, does the over-all temperature need to be high, or does it matter?

I emailed BHB reptiles to ask about this issue. They told me that the temperature gradient I had heard about doesn't necessarily refer to a hot "side" and cold side. They told me that the most important thing is to have a heated ground area of between 88 and 95 degrees that the snake can rest at. While many snake owners will say that ball pythons need light to bask in, most of the heat that ball pythons get in the wild comes from the rocks that they lay on. Heat pads serve that function perfectly.

This saved me from spending an extra $30 on a heat lamp that I could not have even set up efficiently in my Rubbermaid cage.

So as a reminder, surface heat is different from over-all heat. If one half of your cage has a surface (ground) heat of 88-95 degrees, the overall temperature doesn't really matter. Just try not to let it fall below 75 degrees. Otherwise, your snake will always be hiding to stay warm. The heat pad was $17. I've added links to all of the Amazon purchases at the bottom. The size is up to you. I bought a large.

You MUST make sure that your heat pad is monitored. Un-monitored, the heat pad will heighten to temperatures of 110 degrees. This is dangerous for two reasons: 1, it could potentially burn through the plastic. 2, it could potentially hurt your snake. However, if you have a thermometer to keep your pad at or below 95 degrees, I guarantee neither of these things will happen. I don't know the highest temperature that the plastic would burn at, but there's no reason to test it out. Just purchase a thermometer. These are easy to purchase and plug into your heat pad. I just plug the thermometer into the heat pad and set it to 95 degrees. I place the thermometer probe inside the cage (poked through one of the holes) and place it under the newspaper, directly over the heat pad. This will give you an accurate reading of the temperature that is reaching your ball python's underbelly. The thermometer cost me $19.

To ensure your plastic doesn't burn, I would prop your cage up on rubber feet to allow for some heat from the heat pad to escape. I tapped my heat pad directly to the underside of the cage on the outside, and there is about a half an inch of space between the bottom of the cage and the area where the cage sits on. If you don't have the cage propped up, you risk heat getting trapped and burning the plastic. The instructions that come with your heat pad will reference this. I bought some rubber feet for $3.

On to humidity. Humidity is very easy to maintain in this plastic cage. Humidity for ball pythons should stay between 60% and 70%. To measure humidity, I purchased a thermohydrometer (link below). This is a device that measures both temperature and humidity. You don't necessarily NEED the temperature feature on this device, as your thermometer will maintain the proper heat pad temperature. It is, however, helpful for making sure your cage doesn't fall below 75 degrees. I mainly use it for humidity control, so if you want to just buy a hydrometer, that's ok too. The device I purchased was $10.

As far as decreasing/increasing humidity, I just use a plastic spray bottle. If humidity is low, I give a few misty sprays into the cage. Newspaper holds the water well. I try and spray in the area over the heat pad as well, since the heat mists the water and increases humidity. If humidity is too high, I just leave the cage lid off for a few minutes. It doesn't take long for the humidity to go down again.

And there you have it! All of that together costs only around $60! The snake itself is a cost you'll have to figure out yourself. Ball pythons run between $40 to $2,040. That choice is yours.

Feel free to ask any questions! I hope I covered everything. Amazon links to all the products I bought are below. Happy herping!

- John


Thermohydrometer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thermometer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heat pad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rubber feet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thermometer you linked is actually a thermostat...

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Originally Posted by Casper1999

However, if you have a thermometer to keep your pad at or below 95 degrees, I guarantee neither of these things will happen. I don't know the highest temperature that the plastic would burn at, but there's no reason to test it out. Just purchase a thermometer. These are easy to purchase and plug into your heat pad. I just plug the thermometer into the heat pad and set it to 95 degrees.

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I'm pretty sure you mean a thermoSTAT since thermoMETERs only measure temperatures and don't regulate heat. Don't want to confuse people :p

As a side note, the thermostat probe should NOT be be placed inside the cage. It should be secured between the heatpad and UNDER your cage OUTSIDE. This is to ensure the probe isn't moved around or messed with by your ball python. There could be heat spikes and misreadings if pee/waste gets in it.

Can anyone find that handy chart?

Are you proposing putting duct tape inside the enclosure with the snake? No matter how strong the tape is, the snake WILL find a way to get under it. This is a very, very dangerous idea that could result in injury or worse...

Yes, any tape IS dangerous. Never ever for any reason even for a day keep tape inside an enclosure.

Appreciate you working to give an example of an inexpensive setup and looks like you have done some research but there are a few things that need touching up on your write up so I hope you can take a critique of the steps to make sure you offer the best solution for a new owner.

With thermostats you get what you pay for. The most expensive pieces of equipment I have are thermostats.

Here is the chart about the thermostat probe placement for a uth

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil.../5/crayola.jpg

All credit to Pit of course :p

Are those locking lids really enough? I'm setting up a tub for my Blood and they really don't seem like enough to prevent my snake from escaping. Surely luggage straps or something to hold the lid would be sufficient?

Whether or not the clips that hold the tub lid in place are strong enough depend on the brand and the type of clips used. I would definitely get a set of luggage straps to secure most lids, they're cheap.

Tape should never ever be used inside of an enclosure. If you have rough edges on a hide because you cut plastic with a pair of scissors, use an emery board to file them smooth, it will only take a few minutes of time and emery boards are cheap.

Is this supposed to be a recommendations for new owners? Sorry but you still have a lot to learn from proper terminology thermometer vs t-stat (they are not the same) and the use of tape in the enclosure. NEVER use tape in the enclosure it will come loose and it will be an issue which could be fix with a simple $1 plastic bowl as a hide.

I understand you have good intentions but there are some bad advice here and the rest is really only an attempt at regurgitating things that have already been covered but better (see proper tub setup https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...et-Up-The-Basi)

Sorry I stopped at one hide...but I'll explain why you don't need two in a second.

I love brian...he is amazing. He also keeps his rooms at 80 degrees so he doesn't need lamps. He also uses racks with heat tape.

We also have experienced breeders here who have been doing this just as long as Brian. Please listen to what they are saying. I see a lot off with your enclosure that could easily be fixed.

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Originally Posted by Starscream

Are you proposing putting duct tape inside the enclosure with the snake? No matter how strong the tape is, the snake WILL find a way to get under it. This is a very, very dangerous idea that could result in injury or worse...

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Expanding on this. OP you claim "It's not dangerous" and it's as simple as a courtesy. I'm not sure where you heard that from, but as Starscream and others pointed out, it's more dangerous and lethal than you're giving credit.

Here are reasons why.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...ight=Duct+tape

https://exoticpetvetblog.wordpress.com/tag/ball-python/

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...dying-my-fault

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...ake-is-injured

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Originally Posted by bcr229

Whether or not the clips that hold the tub lid in place are strong enough depend on the brand and the type of clips used. I would definitely get a set of luggage straps to secure most lids, they're cheap.

Tape should never ever be used inside of an enclosure. If you have rough edges on a hide because you cut plastic with a pair of scissors, use an emery board to file them smooth, it will only take a few minutes of time and emery boards are cheap.

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Yeah I'm using a Sterilite and those clips seem rather flimsy so I'm just going to get some straps just to be safe.

Thanks for your reply! I would agree with your placement of the probe ordinarily, but it really needs to be taking the temperature based on what the ball python can feel. Having it directly on the heat pad is misleading. I put the probe in the cage UNDER the hiding area. The snake moves around under the substrate, yes. But he won't go under the hiding area.

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Originally Posted by Casper1999

Thanks for your reply! I would agree with your placement of the probe ordinarily, but it really needs to be taking the temperature based on what the ball python can feel. Having it directly on the heat pad is misleading. I put the probe in the cage UNDER the hiding area. The snake moves around under the substrate, yes. But he won't go under the hiding area.

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this is not correct information. what happens when the snake pushes the probe out, or pees/poops on it? what if it gets wet from a tipped water bowl? that could lead to a misreading of the temperature and cause a heat spike or drop, and that can harm your snake.

this is why the probe does not go inside the enclosure: there's far too many variables that can cause a misreading, and the consequences of that are too great for the risk.

you should be taking the temperature based on what the snake can feel, yes, so that's why you use an IR temp gun or a probed thermoMETER so you know what the temperature is. with the knowledge of the temperature the snake can feel, you adjust your thermostat accordingly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Casper1999

Thanks for your reply! I would agree with your placement of the probe ordinarily, but it really needs to be taking the temperature based on what the ball python can feel. Having it directly on the heat pad is misleading. I put the probe in the cage UNDER the hiding area. The snake moves around under the substrate, yes. But he won't go under the hiding area.

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No it needs to regulate the temperature of the heat pad, not the temperature in the enclosure. Placing a thermostat probe in the enclosure would mean you would need to heat the pad hotter than the probe reads to get it to regulate to the set temperature. Placing it on the pad means you set the thermostat to a desired temp and that probe regulates the pad based on the actual temperature not what is inside the enclosure.

You use thermometers, thermometers with probes, or best an infrared temperature gun to gauge the inside heat and you do so from the material in the enclosure, not the top of the substrate.

Thermostat = equipment to control a heating device
Thermometer = device to measure heat from a heating device.

These are important words to get right

Also this is not something debatable.

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Originally Posted by Casper1999

Thanks for your reply! I would agree with your placement of the probe ordinarily, but it really needs to be taking the temperature based on what the ball python can feel. Having it directly on the heat pad is misleading. I put the probe in the cage UNDER the hiding area. The snake moves around under the substrate, yes. But he won't go under the hiding area.

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Again bad and dangerous advice, you are 18 and just acquired a BP, the proper way to set a tub or a tank is to have the THERMOSTAT probe directly on the heat source and adjust your setting based on the temps inside the tub.

Trying to give advice is a great thing but you might want to take a step back first and learn a little more before doing so or attempting to do a write up on proper setup.

Your write up from tape to probe placement could lead to severe issues and endanger a snake's life.

Thank you all for your responses! I appreciate the honesty. I am a new snake owner so I'm always open to criticism and ideas. I was awake most of the first night I bought my ball python, just hoping it wasn't going to die and that I had done things correctly. I'll try to address all your concerns in this reply.

First off, I do know the difference between a thermometer and a thermostat. My apologies for getting the words mixed up. It was a brain fart. Is there a way to edit my post to fix this? I'm new to this forum and don't know how.

As for probe placement, I would ordinarily agree that it shouldn't go in the cage. However, having it directly on the heat mat can be misleading. I've noticed a good difference of temperatures between the actual heat pad and the interior of the cage. Because I want the reading to be based on what Casper is actually getting on his underbelly, I placed it inside the cage. To prevent it getting knocked around, I put it under the newspaper substrate under the hiding area. The snake does burrow under the substrate, but it does not go under the hiding area under the substrate. But I'll keep watch in case he does.

Concerning the tape, I may have misled some of you. I don't have tape on the base of the enclosure. The tape that I have on the heat mat is OUTSIDE of the enclosure. The only tape inside is to patch up holes on the hiding area. I don't know why the ball python would feel the need to burrow between the tape and the hiding area. It is in very long strands pulled tight so that IF the snake wants to get under it, it'd have to bite its way through. If someone thinks this will happen, please let me know.

Some of you were concerned about lid security. I have the type of lid that has latches. I've attached a picture of an example of the type of lid I have.

The main new idea that I wanted to bring up in this post was the matter of temperature and that you may not need as much gear as you think to maintain proper temperature. I did not mean to plagiarize from other posts. I'm very new to this forum and haven't read all the posts.

Let me know if there's anything else in this post that you would consider bad advice.

Thanks,
John

- - - Updated - - -

Just saw the most recent reply on probe placement. Will fix.

https://www.google.com/search?q=rubb...7SU8T_UHm4H_M:

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Originally Posted by Casper1999

Concerning the tape, I may have misled some of you. I don't have tape on the base of the enclosure. The tape that I have on the heat mat is OUTSIDE of the enclosure. The only tape inside is to patch up holes on the hiding area. I don't know why the ball python would feel the need to burrow between the tape and the hiding area. It is in very long strands pulled tight so that IF the snake wants to get under it, it'd have to bite its way through. If someone thinks this will happen, please let me know.

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Cages get wet, they get humid... humidity + tape = comes loose. Loose tape can and will find it's way onto a snake. Tape on a snake (not going to bother debating surgical tape so for this, tape is tape is tape), will lead to damage. Just google to find images and videos of snakes with skin ripped open and needing emergency surgery.

NEVER PUT TAPE INSIDE AN ENCLOSURE EVER

Asking questions and then telling well established breeders who have been doing this for decades is just wrong. This is you first snake and you're telling us we are wrong. Please take a step back and re evaluate all of your prior comments. These people I trust more than a vet. I suggest you listen to them. If you don't want to that is your prerogative, but if you don't I would suggest leaving before telling them how to do things. We are trying to help you and your snake before it gets injured or worse because of a wrong set up.

Again, thank you for this advice. The last thing I want is for my snake to be endangered.

If I remove the tape and change the placement of the probe to the outside of the cage, does that eliminate all safety concerns?

Thanks,
John

Pardon me, I have not retaliated against any of this advice. I have not been rude or even passive aggressive. I made a post and expected to get criticism. I haven't told anybody they are wrong. People gave their perspective, and I gave mine. You look back at my comments. I have been clear, kind, open to criticism, and asked questions.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Casper1999

If I remove the tape and change the placement of the probe to the outside of the cage, does that eliminate all safety concerns?

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pretty much, aside from the possibility of an escape. though your tub has latches, i would still prefer something that would be much more difficult to open/push through. on my tubs, since the latches are on the sides, the middle of the lid can be lifted with not too much force, so i use luggage straps. you can find them on Amazon for like, $6.

Any disagreement I gave in my comments was only to make clear what I am doing with the cage. I didn't give these comments to disagree, but to give y'all more information to decide and let me know whether or not I did in fact need to make changes. My attempt is not to talk down to anybody who knows what they're doing. I don't know what I'm doing and I don't pretend to be better at this than anybody.

@tttaylorrr thanks for that input. I'll try to find something more sturdy to hold up the middle of the lid.

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

pretty much, aside from the possibility of an escape. though your tub has latches, i would still prefer something that would be much more difficult to open/push through. on my tubs, since the latches are on the sides, the middle of the lid can be lifted with not too much force, so i use luggage straps. you can find them on Amazon for like, $6.

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Never had a ball that could get out of one of these. No straps required. https://www.target.com/p/hefty-40-qu...60#lnk=sametab

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Originally Posted by JodanOrNoDan

Never had a ball that could get out of one of these. No straps required. https://www.target.com/p/hefty-40-qu...60#lnk=sametab

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that one looks awesome. much better than the ones i use.

OP I'd say for future reference be a bit more mindful on how you present things. Your write up reads like a "how to" guide for new owners to follow your example. New members or anyone just browsing the forum could easily find what you wrote and take it as a legit walkthrough to follow which is why everyone was expressing their concerns with the incorrect and misleading info written.

Good point. I will be more mindful in the future when making posts. My goal was definitely not to tell experienced owners how to do it. I really just wanted to show what I had done, and I very much expected to receive criticism and constructive advice. I appreciate all the comments and feel wiser for having read these tips. I do not want to sacrifice efficiency for safety.

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Originally Posted by MissterDog

OP I'd say for future reference be a bit more mindful on how you present things. Your write up reads like a "how to" guide for new owners to follow your example. New members or anyone just browsing the forum could easily find what you wrote and take it as a legit walkthrough to follow which is why everyone was expressing their concerns with the incorrect and misleading info written.

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Originally Posted by Casper1999

Good point. I will be more mindful in the future when making posts. My goal was definitely not to tell experienced owners how to do it. I really just wanted to show what I had done, and I very much expected to receive criticism and constructive advice. I appreciate all the comments and feel wiser for having read these tips. I do not want to sacrifice efficiency for safety.

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i agree with MissterDog. i did find it confusing that you seemed to present a guide for new owners, but the info was not correct. for new members/owners, we want to make sure they're getting the best information possible, so we needed to chime in a point out some of the mistakes you made.

no worries! i appreciate you being open to criticism and listening to our advice. all we want is for your pet to be healthy and happy. :)

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

that one looks awesome. much better than the ones i use.

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Yeah, I looked at the ones you are using. The tops are too loose in the middle without the straps you mentioned. The top's on the hefties are super stiff. I have used them as stand alones and my racks are designed around them. The smaller ones make great tubs for smaller or young males and they are the same height as the bigger ones, so my racks can hold two of the 40's or three of the smaller ones in a row.

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Originally Posted by JodanOrNoDan

Yeah, I looked at the ones you are using. The tops are too loose in the middle without the straps you mentioned. The top's on the hefties are super stiff. I have used them as stand alones and my racks are designed around them. The smaller ones make great tubs for smaller or young males and they are the same height as the bigger ones, so my racks can hold two of the 40's or three of the smaller ones in a row.

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that is awesome about them being the same height. i'm planning on either building or buying a rack very soon. i might make a target run after work...
thank you for sharing that link!

This thread

:slamhead:

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Originally Posted by SiXandSeven8ths

This thread

:slamhead:

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I love these threads.

If the OP is open minded which this one is, they learn something.

Side conversations that emanating from the original topic also help to disperse information. Without this thread I couldn't have given Taylor the info on the Hefty tubs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JodanOrNoDan

Yeah, I looked at the ones you are using. The tops are too loose in the middle without the straps you mentioned. The top's on the hefties are super stiff. I have used them as stand alones and my racks are designed around them. The smaller ones make great tubs for smaller or young males and they are the same height as the bigger ones, so my racks can hold two of the 40's or three of the smaller ones in a row.

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Love Hefty! Currently I just have one to store things in but I was considering it as a potential tub set up for a second snake. I just wasn't sure if there was just enough wiggle space for an escape.

As an alternative, I have this tub brand (mine is 32 qts) reserved for a potential second snake.

https://www.target.com/p/sterilite-1...78#lnk=sametab

Ive been really digging it! Lids are super tight and snug and the larger tub sizes have latches on all sides! I have to use a lot of force to try and pry open the unlatched sides.

Weathertight is also another brand that has the same latch design

https://www.target.com/p/iris-62-qt-...7C51088776%7C4

Anyone else have experience with these?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MissterDog

Love Hefty! Currently I just have one to store things in but I was considering it as a potential tub set up for a second snake. I just wasn't sure if there was just enough wiggle space for an escape.

As an alternative, I have this tub brand (mine is 32 qts) reserved for a potential second snake.

https://www.target.com/p/sterilite-1...78#lnk=sametab

Ive been really digging it! Lids are super tight and snug and the larger tub sizes have latches on all sides! I have to use a lot of force to try and pry open the unlatched sides.

Weathertight is also another brand that has the same latch design

https://www.target.com/p/iris-62-qt-...7C51088776%7C4

Anyone else have experience with these?

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Never tried those but the design looks solid. A combination of the way the top is molded combined with the latches is what you are looking for. If I can force my finger under the lid it is a no-go for me.

OP Caspar has been polite and has been responding with thoughtful posts to people who are giving good solid advice.

I think there's some confusion about the thermostat probe placement reasons.

You put the probe between the bottom and the pad. You set the thermostat based on the temps you measure inside the tub over the pad(using a thermometer). So your thermometer may show the temp (inside the tub) at the heatpad spot as say... 80F. You set the thermostat at 90F and wait a few minutes(up to an hour even) and then you measure the temp again(inside the tub with your digital thermometer) and see the temp is now 85F. Or maybe it's now 97F. You adjust the thermostat again, up or down as needed until the temp inside reads what it needs to be. So your thermostat will probably NOT be set to the temp number that you want inside the tub, see? But it will be set to the number that makes the temps the right number.

Make certain you measure the temps several times a day to make sure you are not getting heat spikes or drops too, or that the temp kept rising after you got it to the "right temp", or whatever. Once you get it dialed in, you shouldn't have to mess with it and you can just check the temp occasionally.

I hope this helps make it clear about where the probe goes and how the adjusting is done.

And yes, take out the hide with the duct tape. Ball pythons are like horses, they WILL find any method to injure themselves possible. They will rub against things to shed for instance, and roll that tape edge up and stick themselves to it. You can replace the mesh hide thing you have with any plastic bowl or tub(that isn't see-through) by cutting a entrance and then using a nail file(emory board) to take any sharp edges off the cut part. I still have cereal bowl hides I made for some of my first babies. They were Christmas ones I bought after Christmas, 4 bowls for $0.50 at the Family Dollar store, lol.