Agressive big boa in a bad condition

Hi,
I have few queries regarding this boa that just came in.

We were told that its a male, few years old and very agressive so not jet handeled from our side and previous owner didn't handle him much.
He has his peace now and will leave him for a week or two and just feed him.

Im wondering what morph that is?

Also, if anyone is sure what is wrong with his skin and tail?
Looks to me that he hadn't shed properly for a longer time and shed stayed on the tip, that went on and the tip of tail just died.. Could that be?
I know in the future, his shed has to be checked on the tip of a tail, with higher humidity with a plastic pool to soak in.
The skin on the belly looks loose and wrinkles a lot, is that cause of bad humidity condition's in previous home, dehydration, or he is so skinny?
I want to know this things and learn more so I can help him and other snakes in the future.

Also, if anyone knows good text to read or some tips of how to tame a big aggressive boa with low chances of getting real hurt, please let me know.
I have been taming lizards and ball pythons but am new with boas, specially this big and would appreciate if someone could jump in with some smart words [emoji2]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b51fc7e22d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4de4587338.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...df23c1f6be.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4648937476.jpg

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Common boa imperator, not a morph. Looks like he's in shed so keep his humidity high, maybe even a bowl big enough he can soak in if the enclosure will support it. It looks like you're correct that he lost the tip of his tail at some point, I'm guessing his prior owner didn't keep him humid enough and he ended up with stuck shed that eventually cut off the circulation.

Is that heat tape actually in the tank or is it just showing through the glass?

I would give him a few weeks of correct care and then re-evaluate his personality, he may just mellow out once he's fed and more comfortable. Also boas are usually defensive not aggressive.

Judging by the look of his saddles he appears to be a BCI of some sorts, it doesn't appear that he's a morph of any kind. His shortened tail could be the result of several things, but yes REALLY poor sheds can result in shortened tails. Live feeder rats also have the tendency to target boa tails if left in the same enclosure for an extended period of time. I'm not saying that's what happened, but I've seen it before on these forums.

As for the skin, it appears like he's close to shed in the pictures you just took as he's going opaque. What I like to do before my boas go into shed is to just place them in a lukewarm shallow bathtub and just let them sit for 20-30 minutes. It helps with the shed process as boas are not known to soak by themselves typically. Be aware however, this also usually causes them to defecate.

It's hard to say what you're talking about concerning his belly skin, but I'll tell you that judging by his appearance, he appears to be much older than just a few years. He doesn't appear to be skinny or underfed by the photos you provided. Wait for him to shed, then post a few more pictures of him. I'm not seeing anything out of the ordinary about his appearance as far as his skin is concerned however.

As for handling an agressive boa....it completely depends on the individual animal. Many boas are prone to "defensive" strikes only, meaning that if you can find a way to pick him up he SHOULD settle down, but you also need to be very aware of his head location at all times. They are an animal that REALLY like their enclosure and sometimes they do not like people messing with their habitat. Almost every one of them calms down once you get them out of the cage however. Just be careful.

Boa care is rather easy to remember however (these are the temps I maintain my animals at)

80 F cool side
90 F warm side
50% humidity.....ideally bumped up to 60% around shed time.

Edit: This is why BCR is a mod, gets here fast and summarizes everything I just said in a hell of a lot shorter terms lol.

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Originally Posted by bcr229

Common boa imperator, not a morph. Looks like he's in shed so keep his humidity high, maybe even a bowl big enough he can soak in if the enclosure will support it. It looks like you're correct that he lost the tip of his tail at some point, I'm guessing his prior owner didn't keep him humid enough and he ended up with stuck shed that eventually cut off the circulation.

Is that heat tape actually in the tank or is it just showing through the glass?

I would give him a few weeks of correct care and then re-evaluate his personality, he may just mellow out once he's fed and more comfortable. Also boas are usually defensive not aggressive.

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There is no sticky tape in the enclosure of course, its from the outside [emoji57]
He has a pool with water, still haven't seen him drink.
Correctly said - he is defensive yes. Hope he calms down, that tail may also be bothering him? in close it looks like a end of sausage [emoji29]

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Originally Posted by Tinyballs

Judging by the look of his saddles he appears to be a BCI of some sorts, it doesn't appear that he's a morph of any kind. His shortened tail could be the result of several things, but yes REALLY poor sheds can result in shortened tails. Live feeder rats also have the tendency to target boa tails if left in the same enclosure for an extended period of time. I'm not saying that's what happened, but I've seen it before on these forums.

As for the skin, it appears like he's close to shed in the pictures you just took as he's going opaque. What I like to do before my boas go into shed is to just place them in a lukewarm shallow bathtub and just let them sit for 20-30 minutes. It helps with the shed process as boas are not known to soak by themselves typically. Be aware however, this also usually causes them to defecate.

It's hard to say what you're talking about concerning his belly skin, but I'll tell you that judging by his appearance, he appears to be much older than just a few years. He doesn't appear to be skinny or underfed by the photos you provided. Wait for him to shed, then post a few more pictures of him. I'm not seeing anything out of the ordinary about his appearance as far as his skin is concerned however.

As for handling an agressive boa....it completely depends on the individual animal. Many boas are prone to "defensive" strikes only, meaning that if you can find a way to pick him up he SHOULD settle down, but you also need to be very aware of his head location at all times. They are an animal that REALLY like their enclosures and sometimes do not like people messing with their habitat. Almost every one of them calms down once you get them out of the cage however. Just be careful.

Boa care is rather easy to remember however (these are the temps I maintain my animals at)

80 F cool side
90 F warm side
50% humidity.....ideally bumped up to 60% around shed time.

Edit: This is why BCR is a mod, gets here fast and summarizes everything I just said in a hell of a lot shorter terms lol.

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Thats how I keep the temps, just a bit higher humidity.
I have a bad camera on phone, his eyes are totally clear and his skin, not like on photo, so not sure about shed but im keeping​ an eye on him.
Why you think he is much older, how can you tell?
No worries about long post, I like reading more info.

I will not touch him for two weeks and than will try to handle him, to get him out on the floor with a hook and pray he doesn't strike or wrap around me, he looks so strong and big and Im like barely 60kg. Will ask some male assistance [emoji5] even dough im the brave one here.. and I admit im bit paranoid that he will squeeze me...nobody plans to hold him at all so I will have to cause im too curious to wait and want to clean him without freakin out [emoji2]

Tnx Tinyballs

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I am not an expert, but I'd definitely invest in a snake hook to help with taming him... If you want to attempt handling, and he does appear defensively bitey, then long gauntleted welding gloves may come in handy, as well as a plastic face shield...

I hook train all of my boas and the snake will learn to associate being stroked with the hook with you messing with their enclosure, cleaning, and / or handling vs. feeding time. I am able to take my 6' boa out of "food mode" by stroking him with the hook a few times...then he is safe to handle once he understands what is going on. You may want to do this every time you go in his cage (to change water, clean, etc.). Stroke him with the hook first and then use it as a barrier between where his head is and your hands. I would do this for a few weeks to get him used to the idea of what the hook is and you doing things in his cage, then progress to attempted handling (baby steps as it were). Something like a golf club could also serve this purpose if you have one on hand. Do not use the hook when feeding to avoid it being associated with food.

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Originally Posted by artgecko

I am not an expert, but I'd definitely invest in a snake hook to help with taming him... If you want to attempt handling, and he does appear defensively bitey, then long gauntleted welding gloves may come in handy, as well as a plastic face shield...

I hook train all of my boas and the snake will learn to associate being stroked with the hook with you messing with their enclosure, cleaning, and / or handling vs. feeding time. I am able to take my 6' boa out of "food mode" by stroking him with the hook a few times...then he is safe to handle once he understands what is going on. You may want to do this every time you go in his cage (to change water, clean, etc.). Stroke him with the hook first and then use it as a barrier between where his head is and your hands. I would do this for a few weeks to get him used to the idea of what the hook is and you doing things in his cage, then progress to attempted handling (baby steps as it were). Something like a golf club could also serve this purpose if you have one on hand. Do not use the hook when feeding to avoid it being associated with food.

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Thankfully I do have two strong hooks for bigger snakes and I've listened to your advice, I stroked him with a hook today, he is in his pool and started vibrating with his body and flicking his tongue curious. No defensive behaviour so far. Slowly and patiently, I hope he will be much calmer so in few weeks I can post a photo with me holding him without bleeding from his bites[emoji16] [emoji2]


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Originally Posted by Pitonica

Thankfully I do have two strong hooks for bigger snakes and I've listened to your advice, I stroked him with a hook today, he is in his pool and started vibrating with his body and flicking his tongue curious. No defensive behaviour so far. Slowly and patiently, I hope he will be much calmer so in few weeks I can post a photo with me holding him without bleeding from his bites[emoji16] [emoji2]


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Sounds like a plan. I'm glad he reacted well so far. :) Good luck with him!

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Originally Posted by Pitonica

Why you think he is much older, how can you tell?

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We can be pretty certain that he is a BCI and for a BCI his overall coloring is very dark (which comes with age) and the shape of his head. The muscles on the side of his head are very well defined and large....which only happens in older boas. Additionally, he seems to have a very large skeletal structure which also comes with age in older boas.

No way to tell exactly how old he is but if I were to take I complete guess I would say he's no less than 10 years old judging by your photos.

Seems no one mentioned it but I hope you have that heat tape on a t-stat. Set it to around 88-90F and I would at least offer the snake a hide to feel comfortable in. Even my 6'+ girl uses a hide sometimes when shedding or when she just wants privacy. Feeling secure will go a long ways with a boa as all of mine are complete loungers except my BCL who are just extra shy by nature and take longer to settle in than BCIs. But even now he is pretty laid back for the most part.

Give him a hide like I said and let him shed and relax and he will most likely come around. You can snake hook train if you want but I haven't use a hook for any of my boas ever and then one time I tried a hook on my retic as a baby, he got pissed and opened his mouth and hissed at it. Now I just slide a door open and in about 30 secs, he realizes no food and is curious to hang out with me lol.

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

Seems no one mentioned it but I hope you have that heat tape on a t-stat. Set it to around 88-90F and I would at least offer the snake a hide to feel comfortable in. Even my 6'+ girl uses a hide sometimes when shedding or when she just wants privacy. Feeling secure will go a long ways with a boa as all of mine are complete loungers except my BCL who are just extra shy by nature and take longer to settle in than BCIs. But even now he is pretty laid back for the most part.

Give him a hide like I said and let him shed and relax and he will most likely come around. You can snake hook train if you want but I haven't use a hook for any of my boas ever and then one time I tried a hook on my retic as a baby, he got pissed and opened his mouth and hissed at it. Now I just slide a door open and in about 30 secs, he realizes no food and is curious to hang out with me lol.

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Thanks!
Its on t-stat yes. Will try with open enclosure so he can come out alone and i will try to lift him up.... I would like him to eat first and than try this few days later


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Any updates on this guy? Glad he's in a better place with someone to take care of him!

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Hi. Maybe after this reply you wish you haven't asked [emoji1] [emoji21]
Positive thing -He hasn't hissed at me since that day. Acts calm and sweet. Definitely better than before. Lets me change his water often, and his poop with no signs of possible defence. He had his first shed here and tip of his poor tail didn't shed as I see a tip missing on his old skin. He doesn't let me touch his tail so im keeping the humidity on the higher end and spray the tail with water. wish to handle him to see his reactions and to stretch him out of the cage, but nobody can/wants to help me or get me the long protective gloves or smthin to do so.
Everyone is afraid of him so it's on me. I can concuer fear of being bitten but I can't fake being experienced cause with boas im not and don't want to act a smartass and get really hurt.
I wish they got a smaller boa for start but its not up to me. They see me handeling defensive snakes and lizards, making them thame so why not a heavy Boa...[emoji85]
anyway,
To explain for ones that may want to point out of why getting him in a first place- he is not my animal, I take care of him as my job is to take care of lots of reptiles from someones personal collection. I Train,look after them, feed and clean them.
So im here to help. Not pointing fingers or blame anyone cause that will not help the animal.
Im worried about him.
He has some reddish smudges on his face I noticed later that day and it seems it got worse or im imagening it. Doesn't look normal, right? He eats regullary. Takes him ages but he eats.
I've read neosporin could be used for injures? If yes for this type of thing, it will be a quest to put the cream on his head.
So, sorry for the long post,
is there something I can do?
Hope you guys can see his reddish face on this pic below.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4ffa066667.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b9f3d7129f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9c2c3d6ae5.jpg

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The reddish color might just be blushing. My normal girl has the same thing. Here is a pic of her and you can see it to see if it is the same thing you are talking about.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...bbc74d01_k.jpg

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

The reddish color might just be blushing. My normal girl has the same thing. Here is a pic of her and you can see it to see if it is the same thing you are talking about.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...bbc74d01_k.jpg

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Yes, kind of looks the same. Huh, thats good. On some parts it's more red, managed to get another pic, the reddish scales closer to his neck..
Thank youhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a2864b3f45.jpg

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Great book to get is
The Complete Boa Constrictor. by Vin Russo. :gj: Grats!

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Originally Posted by Albert Clark

Great book to get is
The Complete Boa Constrictor. by Vin Russo. :gj: Grats!

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+1

I own it and love it.

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Originally Posted by Pitonica

He had his first shed here and tip of his poor tail didn't shed as I see a tip missing on his old skin. He doesn't let me touch his tail so im keeping the humidity on the higher end and spray the tail with water. wish to handle him to see his reactions and to stretch him out of the cage,

He has some reddish smudges on his face I noticed later that day and it seems it got worse or im imagening it. Doesn't look normal, right? He eats regullary. Takes him ages but he eats.
I've read neosporin could be used for injures? If yes for this type of thing, it will be a quest to put the cream on his head.
So, sorry for the long post,
is there something I can do?
Hope you guys can see his reddish face on this pic below.

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If you're having trouble with him shedding.....get him off of the aspen you're using and onto either a coconut fiber or cypress mulch substrate of some form. If he's shedding in pieces, that's a sign of low humidity and I guarantee aspen is not helping you. Furthermore, aspen molds FAST when exposed to spraying. There are many boa keepers who use aspen, but to maintain proper humidity levels with it for a boa, you either need a PVC/rack enclosure that holds humidity better than a tank.

I agree with Sauzo, I don't think that's an injury of any kind I think it's the natural coloration on his face.

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Originally Posted by KevinK

If you're having trouble with him shedding.....get him off of the aspen you're using and onto either a coconut fiber or cypress mulch substrate of some form. If he's shedding in pieces, that's a sign of low humidity and I guarantee aspen is not helping you. Furthermore, aspen molds FAST when exposed to spraying. There are many boa keepers who use aspen, but to maintain proper humidity levels with it for a boa, you either need a PVC/rack enclosure that holds humidity better than a tank.

I agree with Sauzo, I don't think that's an injury of any kind I think it's the natural coloration on his face.

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I disagree about the aspen. I mist my aspen once a week and it never molds. It will mold if you leave waste on it but pretty much anything will grow 'fur' on it left on any substrate. I've seen mold grow on Reptichips and Eco Earth. I've used Eco Earth, Reptichips and aspen and honestly, my favorite is still aspen. Easy to spot clean, soaks up liquid well, packs down good, allows the snakes to dig around in it still and easy to spot pisses or poops. Used to be really cheap to use too but since my local source has dried up, it now costs me quite a bit more for 10 24 qt bags of the Zoo Med stuff. I never have issues keeping humidity with it. It's actually easier to work with than Reptichips as with that stuff, i had so much humidity for about a week after changing it, that i had condensation dripping off the cage walls and roof.

Is he being fed live? Almost looks like a bite or something, plus his neck is a bit swollen which made me think either injury or RI. Maybe it's just looser skin and he's sitting funny, hard to say without seeing it. Has a vet seen him? Might need a culture run.
Tail tip not shedding is somewhat common coming from a bad humidity situation, heavy misting on it like you are doing is a good thing. If it doesn't come off in the next shed, you'll need to intervene and soak or damp towel sauna and get it off for him otherwise the old shed can constrict the tissue at the end of the tail and cause the loss of the tip plus possible infection.
Dealing with a larger snake can be intimidating, especially if you haven't done it before. Luckily he sounds pretty calm so far. Try using a shield, like the top of a rubbermaid tub, use one hand to hold the shield between his face/neck and the rest of his body and use your other arm (or a helper) to lift his mid section out, lift from the bottom/belly. He'll probably scoot forward, sometimes it's like grasping a giant slinky. Just be calm and sure of your motions, don't grasp or hold tight. A hook can be used instead of a 'shield' or even a roll of papertowels! I simply mentioned a shield since it can make you feel quite secure he won't be able to whip back and bite you. That is what I do with overprotective momma snakes that just had a litter.
:)
Good luck with him! Keep up the good work!

Hi. I have never fed him live but I don't know about the previous owner. He came with a tip of his tail missing (mentioned in the first post here) so that's why im worried it didn't shed right again aldough I keep the humidity well and he has a nice size pool he can soak in whenever he wants. I have a good zoomed shedding aid spray and I will use that on his tail. The rest of him shed fine. Neck doesn't look swollen.To me he looks skinny and too soft when I try to move him, he has more loose skin and less muscle at least Its my opinion, maybe that is because he is an older snake or his immunity needs to improve. He looks better thats for sure. He drinks like a doggy in the first few minutes that I put him fresh water which is every two days or if he poops/pees in there. So he is well hydrated. Aspen works ok for now aldough I would switch him to cardboard or newspaper just to be sure...
I never saw anyone hold him, not even a previous owner so I don't know what to expect, im totally in the dark. He acts curious and calm when I approach him, but when trying to pick him up or hold him anywhere near his first part of the body - he gives the S position and stiffens, than goes slowly right to my hand that holds him. That is REALLY scary cause I don't know will he bite or just see wtf is going on, who are you, you are waarm, don't touch meeeeee, aaaaaaa...(I can almost hear him speaking with the face he makes...haha, so I need 3-4 hands to get him out. The previous owner described him as a scary bitey attacker and as a result he gave him away. If you ask me, this boa doesn't know what a hand is and is scared of any contact resulting him to be defensive, he lacks trust from anyone trying to touch him as he is not used to that. maybe he spent years not being handled. So what I think I need to do is to patiently keep getting him used to my touch and my scent as something positive, than to let him go out of enclosure himself and explore a bit, stretch out, than return him in, as calm as possible, than upgrade to more touching and staying out.
I think he can be fine, just with patience and handeling. The first Im managing, the second would be much easier if I had one bigger snake experienced person by my side. I read tons of info about them and looked at the videos but no study can replace real practice. My heart is in my throat every time his head turns faster to my hands, cant help not to imagine what would he do close to mz head, maybe going berserk once out of the cage.
I will just have to brake the ice and try, just wish he was smaller to begin with :D
I asked if they can call someone boa experienced to help me but no luck. Only person to help me is the one feeling exactly like me, which is pointless relying on pure luck as this kind of snake needs someone who knows what he/she is doing with no fear in the head.
Usually the more defensive bitey or skittish reptiles I begin to handle end up being my favourite and more tame than others so Im hoping same will be with him.

Thanks guys.
Will update if any change.

My husband’s red-tailed boa is a sweetheart, but the S posture did take some getting used to. I’ve seen a couple posters of different boa morphs, and they’re all shown S-ed up. Between that and handling husband’s boy we’ve learned that it’s a boa thing, not like a BP that’s getting ready to strike. But we got to learn that with a baby! I’d probably be intimidated by a big boy with a bad reputation, too.

Since he hasn’t bitten you, only investigated, it sounds like you’re on the right track and getting used to each other.


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Originally Posted by Prognathodon

My husband’s red-tailed boa is a sweetheart, but the S posture did take some getting used to. I’ve seen a couple posters of different boa morphs, and they’re all shown S-ed up. Between that and handling husband’s boy we’ve learned that it’s a boa thing, not like a BP that’s getting ready to strike. But we got to learn that with a baby! I’d probably be intimidated by a big boy with a bad reputation, too.

Since he hasn’t bitten you, only investigated, it sounds like you’re on the right track and getting used to each other.


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Yea, I can see by his posture besides the S, that he is scared, gets all cramped up..and than relaxes after a minute or few.
Well tomorrow I have to clean his entire cage well so he is out one way or the other :)


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Agreed that boas do like to sit in the 'S' posture. He really doesn't sound like an aggressive boa, just a scared guy.
Having been bit by a few adult boas, the fear of the bite is so much worse than the bite itself.
You'll do great and hopefully he will too!
:D

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Originally Posted by AbsoluteApril

Agreed that boas do like to sit in the 'S' posture. He really doesn't sound like an aggressive boa, just a scared guy.
Having been bit by a few adult boas, the fear of the bite is so much worse than the bite itself.
You'll do great and hopefully he will too!
:D

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If I can ask you..ive seen the skeleton and teeth of the grown boa and how they grow towards the inside and that it can really mess you up hahahh. If this snake has never been handeled and its more than 10years old, looks like that..than she thinks of me as a monster :(
Where did the snake bite you and why?
Im afraid more from her strong coil if she freaks out.. than a bite...


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One of them bit me on the back of my hand as I was reaching into the enclosure to change the water, just a quick tag, caught me totally off guard (that was the first boa bite). Left some pin prick marks on the back of my hand from her teeth.

The worst one was my big girl (she was about 7.5' at the time) during feeding. I had the f/t rat on tongs in one hand, was opening the plexi front cage with the other, the door slipped out of my hand and she turned and grabbed that hand instead of the rat. She fully grabbed and coiled, I dropped the tongs and rat to use my free hand to grab her behind the head in hopes it would get her to let go. No luck, she kept a hold on me and was starting to move her body to loop around my hands and arm. So I pulled her out of the cage and onto the floor and moved to get out of the room (headed to the bathroom so I could dunk her head in water). As soon as we were out of the room and in the hallway away from the smell of rat, she let go and uncoiled me. That one was a little messy simply because I jerked away and was trying to pull her off, so her teeth dragged a little in my skin making some small cuts.

Both were not too bad, not nearly as bad as I had expected. A little blood and in the second case, a little bruising. However within days it was almost completely healed up and one week later couldn't even see the marks.
A boa bite feels kind of like a slap or a light punch. The teeth are not too bad and I never had the feeling of being stabbed or needles or anything like that. It's more the shock of it than anything. My heart raced and my hands shook from the adrenaline but the pain wasn't bad. Pulling away is an instinct but try not to as that is what can actually make the bite worse. Most boa bites are quick tags, they slap you with an open mouth and retreat. The only coil was the one I mention and that was feeding related. I've never had a defensive boa try to bite and coil.

If an adult boa does coil, unwrap them from the tail end first, you won't be able to pull them off from the head.

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Originally Posted by AbsoluteApril

One of them bit me on the back of my hand as I was reaching into the enclosure to change the water, just a quick tag, caught me totally off guard (that was the first boa bite). Left some pin prick marks on the back of my hand from her teeth.

The worst one was my big girl (she was about 7.5' at the time) during feeding. I had the f/t rat on tongs in one hand, was opening the plexi front cage with the other, the door slipped out of my hand and she turned and grabbed that hand instead of the rat. She fully grabbed and coiled, I dropped the tongs and rat to use my free hand to grab her behind the head in hopes it would get her to let go. No luck, she kept a hold on me and was starting to move her body to loop around my hands and arm. So I pulled her out of the cage and onto the floor and moved to get out of the room (headed to the bathroom so I could dunk her head in water). As soon as we were out of the room and in the hallway away from the smell of rat, she let go and uncoiled me. That one was a little messy simply because I jerked away and was trying to pull her off, so her teeth dragged a little in my skin making some small cuts.

Both were not too bad, not nearly as bad as I had expected. A little blood and in the second case, a little bruising. However within days it was almost completely healed up and one week later couldn't even see the marks.
A boa bite feels kind of like a slap or a light punch. The teeth are not too bad and I never had the feeling of being stabbed or needles or anything like that. It's more the shock of it than anything. My heart raced and my hands shook from the adrenaline but the pain wasn't bad. Pulling away is an instinct but try not to as that is what can actually make the bite worse. Most boa bites are quick tags, they slap you with an open mouth and retreat. The only coil was the one I mention and that was feeding related. I've never had a defensive boa try to bite and coil.

If an adult boa does coil, unwrap them from the tail end first, you won't be able to pull them off from the head.

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Oh gosh... The rat thing must of been so bad, aldough not snakes fault [emoji21] [emoji1]
Thanks for explaining, couldn't help not to imagen it[emoji1] [emoji24]
I am just wondering, is it possible that a boa coils if not food related ?
Yours don't luckily :)

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I consider any bite from any constrictor that coils after the strike a food related bite whether there is food present or not. If they bite and coil the intent at least at that moment is to eat what they have grabbed.

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Originally Posted by JodanOrNoDan

I consider any bite from any constrictor that coils after the strike a food related bite whether there is food present or not. If they bite and coil the intent at least at that moment is to eat what they have grabbed.

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Well That's just lovely [emoji1]
And makes sense.
Imagen that your own snake wants to eat you...well at least trying..





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Originally Posted by Pitonica

Imagen that your own snake wants to eat you...well at least trying..

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It's not personal. They strike at scent, heat, and movement.

This is a pretty good video of how to handle defensive snakes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDjlg1njtfY

Also something I've found with mine is not to let yourself be backlit. Watch your shadow - if it lands on the snake it will instinctively consider that a threat from a predator.

My boas will sit in the 'S' a lot, usually when they think dinner is coming or or they are wondering whats going on. Never been bit by them being in it. Here's Gina doing her little 'S' when she i tried to pose her for pics lol.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...e055a71a_h.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bcr229

It's not personal. They strike at scent, heat, and movement.

This is a pretty good video of how to handle defensive snakes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDjlg1njtfY

Also something I've found with mine is not to let yourself be backlit. Watch your shadow - if it lands on the snake it will instinctively consider that a threat from a predator.

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It indeed is a good video, but I don't see him handeling bigger snakes..when you're holding snake this light its easy to control its movements than with a 13pounds + boa. Was handeling a few defensive green pythons which was also easy cause they are light.
Will try that with turning dough. Gotta keep an eye on the shadow also..well that's just great [emoji23]

Thank you

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

My boas will sit in the 'S' a lot, usually when they think dinner is coming or or they are wondering whats going on. Never been bit by them being in it. Here's Gina doing her little 'S' when she i tried to pose her for pics lol.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...e055a71a_h.jpg

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She is so pretty, beautiful colour and not scary looking at all.
This male boa when trying to pick him up goes straight to my hand, I haven't seen that in any video and don't know for sure, but looks like he wants to strike or is atleast freaked out of who is touching him. He is fine when I just touch him a bit..but picking up gets him moving towards me... How to get him out than, if his head is focused on the part that holds him even when he is out of the enclosure? A hook, yes but still

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Well my big girl is 13 lbs and about 6.5'. She does look at my hand when i pick her up but I've also had her for 5 years so i know she wont bite me. My 7' retic does the same when i'm petting him. He even will put his head on my arm or lay next to my hand. I've had him just over a year and he has never tried to bite me. Actually pretty much all my snakes look at my hand when i touch them with it. I think they are just seeing who/what it is touching them. once they see/smell its my hand they either turn and go the other way if they dont want to come out or they come forward towards me if they want to come out. Personally I think if you worry about getting bit too much, you WILL get bit. Just got to go for it and pick them up. From what i have noticed with my snakes over the years is that if i seem nervous with them, especially the new snakes, they seem to be nervous too. When i got Caesar my retic, i was kind of scared to get bit and i could really tell that made him nervous too as he was kind of leary about getting close to me. But now after over a year, i just reach in and pet him and he just comes out and greets me at the door and sits on my arm or lays down under my arm while i pet him. But he is a lush and a total attention hog lol. My advice is just go for it and show the snake who is boss!! Worst case you get bit and honestly it doesnt really hurt too much. My almost 6' sunglow bit me when my hand smelled like a rat. It bled a lot and left a nice bruise but that was it.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...d45f2aff_h.jpg