Trouble Feeder

I know you all see lots of threads on "trouble feeders", but I have been having some trouble and would find great comfort in finding some help. I have a 2 1/2 year old male ball that has been refusing feed since the beginning of July, prior to this he was doing great with feeding. I know this is only around 3 1/2 months but I am looking for guidance on what I should do. He has not lost any weight so I am not worried about that. His temperatures seem to be just fine!

I have been offering every 2 weeks and each time he comes out of his hide looking interested, but when I offer he just gets uninterested and goes back into his hide. I have read that I could just keep offering until he eats again, try switching to a f/t mouse to get him started, offer prekilled, offer live. I am wondering what would be the best steps to follow to get him feeding again.

Thanks for any help!

Before changing prey I always recommend to do husbandry change from as little as the substrate to the size of the enclosure and putting the animal in something VERY cramped.

They fast for various reason as adult, from being sexually mature and wanting to mate, to being over fed and fasting to catch up (common in captivity and with males) to husbandry issue.

I think I will try out the substrate change.. maybe that will get him going again. Very frustrating last few months with trying to get him feeding. Thanks Deborah!

I hope it isn't a husbandry issue.. Thats my biggest worry! Even though the thermometer reads what it should I always worry about it. I have him in a AP cage with RHP. My thermometer reads usually ~88-95 under the RHP and cool side ~78-82. Humidity is always around 55% or so when not in shed. This is at least what my accurite reads. Because I was so worried about it being off, I have another thermometer/hydrometer from Reptile Basics that sits inside his cool side and takes temps from the inside. That one usually reads 80-82 and 60% humidity for some reason..

How and when are you offering food ??


Have you tried the hairdryer trick and tried feeding in low light evening time ?

Also I'm thinking 95F is rather too hot ??


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Originally Posted by Zincubus

How and when are you offering food ??


Have you tried the hairdryer trick and tried feeding in low light evening time ?

Also I'm thinking 95F is rather too hot ??


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I agree that 95 seems a tad high despite being less than mammalian internal temps. I try to aim for the ever elusive 91.

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I feed in low light in the evening time. I thaw food in fridge overnight, then put in warm water to get it warmed up then hit the head with a hairdryer.

Its not constantly 95F but will spike up to it. I have my herpstat set to 82 and it keeps the ambient best at that temp. The hot side just tends to spike? I don't really know why.

I don't know if you've tried this, but it has improved my little ones feeding response in the short time I've had him. At first, he would take prey but not be super interested, now, I just dangle the rat in front of his hide and he strikes like his life depends on it.

I thaw the rat pup in a ziplock bag put into a tupperware of warm water for about 10-20 minutes. When I take it out, it's still slightly cold. After this I put the rat just to the side of his che to warm it to body temperature. This also gets the smell going through his enclosure, which I think is the reason his response has gotten so intense. After about 10-15 minutes under the CHE, I make sure the rats belly is soft and the head is warm to the touch, even better if you can measure the rat temp with a thermometer and shoot for around 100 degrees. After that I just take the rat with my tongs and shake it a little bit in front of his hide. Even if hes shoved way in the back of it, not even looking at the rat, within about 30 seconds hes struck and coiled and back in his hide.

The combination of the smell permeating the enclosure and the rat being warmed to body temperature has done wonders for me.

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Originally Posted by maausen

I feed in low light in the evening time. I thaw food in fridge overnight, then put in warm water to get it warmed up then hit the head with a hairdryer.

Its not constantly 95F but will spike up to it. I have my herpstat set to 82 and it keeps the ambient best at that temp. The hot side just tends to spike? I don't really know why.

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All sounds good , only thing I'd change given he's not feeding well is the warm water part . I have a couple who wouldn't bother anything warmed in water and I'm guessing it was because the smell / odour of the rodent was simply washed away - some are ultra finicky . I thaw on a plate on the boiler or on a heat mat then boost with a blast from hairdryer . See as you in low light and evening .


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Originally Posted by Zincubus

All sounds good , only thing I'd change given he's not feeding well is the warm water part . I have a couple who wouldn't bother anything warmed in water and I'm guessing it was because the smell / odour of the rodent was simply washed away - some are ultra finicky . I thaw on a plate on the boiler or on a heat mat then boost with a blast from hairdryer . See as you in low light and evening .


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Thanks Zincubus. I assume it may not be the water part because the rat is in a sealed ziplock for the entire process till I take it out and offer.. Unless you mean that this even has an effect?

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Originally Posted by honeybee

I don't know if you've tried this, but it has improved my little ones feeding response in the short time I've had him. At first, he would take prey but not be super interested, now, I just dangle the rat in front of his hide and he strikes like his life depends on it.

I thaw the rat pup in a ziplock bag put into a tupperware of warm water for about 10-20 minutes. When I take it out, it's still slightly cold. After this I put the rat just to the side of his che to warm it to body temperature. This also gets the smell going through his enclosure, which I think is the reason his response has gotten so intense. After about 10-15 minutes under the CHE, I make sure the rats belly is soft and the head is warm to the touch, even better if you can measure the rat temp with a thermometer and shoot for around 100 degrees. After that I just take the rat with my tongs and shake it a little bit in front of his hide. Even if hes shoved way in the back of it, not even looking at the rat, within about 30 seconds hes struck and coiled and back in his hide.

The combination of the smell permeating the enclosure and the rat being warmed to body temperature has done wonders for me.

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I might try this one! Sound like it could really work for him. Thank you for the help.

What's his weight? And what was his weight 3 months ago? Deborah suggested he might be trying to "catch up" his length to his girth. If he's been off food for a couple of months, but still looks like a healthy body style, then I wouldn't worry about it too much. If he's thinning out, but only losing a little weight, I also wouldn't worry about it too much. If he's looking thin, and borderline emaciated, then it's time to do something.

If F/T hasn't been working for you, then go to a pet shop, buy a small rat, show the snake the rat through the enclosure and try to get him interested in it. Then, kill the rodent right before you put it into the enclosure. Bonus points if you kill it completely, but get it in the tank while it's legs are still twitching. Attempt at night, and if possible, position yourself such that you can watch him, but he can't really see you... You want him focused on the small prey item, not the giant potential predator (you) looming over him. I have a decent sized piece of cardboard that I put between myself and the snake on occasion, and I can peer over the top and spy on him, while he can really only see the rodent, and the solid cardboard background.

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Originally Posted by maausen

Thanks Zincubus. I assume it may not be the water part because the rat is in a sealed ziplock for the entire process till I take it out and offer.. Unless you mean that this even has an effect?



I might try this one! Sound like it could really work for him. Thank you for the help.

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Ahh - if it's airtight then there wouldn't be an issue as you correctly assumed ..


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Originally Posted by Clutch22

What's his weight? And what was his weight 3 months ago? Deborah suggested he might be trying to "catch up" his length to his girth. If he's been off food for a couple of months, but still looks like a healthy body style, then I wouldn't worry about it too much. If he's thinning out, but only losing a little weight, I also wouldn't worry about it too much. If he's looking thin, and borderline emaciated, then it's time to do something.

If F/T hasn't been working for you, then go to a pet shop, buy a small rat, show the snake the rat through the enclosure and try to get him interested in it. Then, kill the rodent right before you put it into the enclosure. Bonus points if you kill it completely, but get it in the tank while it's legs are still twitching. Attempt at night, and if possible, position yourself such that you can watch him, but he can't really see you... You want him focused on the small prey item, not the giant potential predator (you) looming over him. I have a decent sized piece of cardboard that I put between myself and the snake on occasion, and I can peer over the top and spy on him, while he can really only see the rodent, and the solid cardboard background.

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He hasn't lost any weight. He has been the same for 3 months.

He also was taking f/t for the entire 3 years i've had him so I really do not wanna introduce a new food source if I can get him back to f/t unless it becomes too long! I just don't know how long is too long for him and if I should continue trying what I have been trying.

A little more background on everything: about 10 months ago (winter season ~ December) he just broke 800g and became finicky with food, eating monthly rather then every 10 days. I figured it was down to wanting to breed since he finally became sexually mature. Then came beginning of July and I moved him to my new house about 20 minutes away. Since in the new house he has not eaten since. End of October will be 4 months without food.

Last night I tried pre-killed small rat and he still was not interested. Anyone have extra input? I am really trying to figure out what the heck is going on! It is frustrating to feed every other week when I end up wasting a rat.

Sounds like he is just being a boy. If he is not loosing weight try not to worry too much. I think I would stop offering for a month then attempt live to "jump start" his feeding response.

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Originally Posted by JodanOrNoDan

Sounds like he is just being a boy. If he is not loosing weight try not to worry too much. I think I would stop offering for a month then attempt live to "jump start" his feeding response.

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I second this. I had a BP last year fast for 8 months but didn't lose any significant weight. I offered monthly.

Welcome to winter brumation aka "my male has decided to stop eating an I get to play guess how many rats I throw away". It is annoying because you get to waste rodents trying to figure out just when it starts. This is one reason I am getting rid of the glass tank. Tired of winter fasts simply because the house gets cold and having to fight to keep conditions ideal. I am also seriously thinking of getting another reptile again that is a garbage disposal so when this inevitably happens I have something to dump refused meals to again.

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Originally Posted by SDA

Welcome to winter brumation aka "my male has decided to stop eating an I get to play guess how many rats I throw away". It is annoying because you get to waste rodents trying to figure out just when it starts. This is one reason I am getting rid of the glass tank. Tired of winter fasts simply because the house gets cold and having to fight to keep conditions ideal. I am also seriously thinking of getting another reptile again that is a garbage disposal so when this inevitably happens I have something to dump refused meals to again.

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Getting rid of the glass tank may make your life easier, however it is very unlikely it will stop the winter fast. The only thing that may help with that is feeding less. The garbage disposal idea is the best if you don't want to waste anything.

A lot of snakes will go off feed during this time of year. If he's not losing weight, and you know your temps are on point, just keep offering food every 3-4 weeks until he starts eating again. I usually give in and offer a small live feeder after they've refused food for 3-4 months even though I know they can go a lot longer without food. One way to never waste refused food is to get more snakes! :) :snake::snake::snake::snake:

Thank you all for the very helpful replies. I will follow that action plan from here out.

I only feed in enclosure when I do feed, but if I offer live would you guys recommend a separate container for ease of intervention if needed during the wrap? And should I go small rat per usual?

No, keep him in his enclosure. When I am trying to get an animal back on feed I will usually try something a little smaller than normal. There is no real rational behind it it just works for me. When I have breeding girls that I am trying to get back on food after laying I always offer a live small instead of the normal medium. I originally started doing this because I get live smalls relatively cheap. It seemed to work so I kept doing it.

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Originally Posted by SDA

Welcome to winter brumation aka "my male has decided to stop eating an I get to play guess how many rats I throw away". It is annoying because you get to waste rodents trying to figure out just when it starts. This is one reason I am getting rid of the glass tank. Tired of winter fasts simply because the house gets cold and having to fight to keep conditions ideal. I am also seriously thinking of getting another reptile again that is a garbage disposal so when this inevitably happens I have something to dump refused meals to again.

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Same, since mine's hit that 800g and is starting the skipping weeks/fasting schtick again, probably compounded by the fact we're seeing temps like 30F overnight and snow this week.

Just need to find something that'll take his rats that is legal to own in town, landlord has said hard no to anything like a ferret due to past bad experiences with them musking up her apartments, lol.

So yeah, you're not alone OP. If he doesn't take what I dangled at him tonight and left in under the lamp for him he's not getting a meal until the 24th of November or so. Means my rat stockpile will last longer I guess. Might be able to make it til the first 2018 con for my next stockup at this rate.

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Originally Posted by JodanOrNoDan

No, keep him in his enclosure. When I am trying to get an animal back on feed I will usually try something a little smaller than normal. There is no real rational behind it it just works for me. When I have breeding girls that I am trying to get back on food after laying I always offer a live small instead of the normal medium. I originally started doing this because I get live smalls relatively cheap. It seemed to work so I kept doing it.

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How do you go about feeding live inside an enclosure? I’ve got some decorations and whatnot and the two reptile basics hides. It’s just supposed to run around? I’m just trying to figure it out because I want to be able to intervene if needed.

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Originally Posted by maausen

How do you go about feeding live inside an enclosure? I’ve got some decorations and whatnot and the two reptile basics hides. It’s just supposed to run around? I’m just trying to figure it out because I want to be able to intervene if needed.

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I have some fake plants and stuff. She takes the rat under the plants and eats it. They figure it out. May have to fix stuff after as some of the decorations may get shifted a bit. No biggie.:)

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Originally Posted by Newbie39

I have some fake plants and stuff. She takes the rat under the plants and eats it. They figure it out. May have to fix stuff after as some of the decorations may get shifted a bit. No biggie.:)

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Gotcha. This might be a dumb question, but what if the rodent runs into the hide?

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Originally Posted by maausen

Gotcha. This might be a dumb question, but what if the rodent runs into the hide?

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Ah. Just noticed you mentioned you feed live. I feed f/t.


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Just put the rodent in there and wait. Usually within minutes or even seconds, I hear a THUMP, as the snake strikes and constricts the poor little rat! If the snake doesn;t attack the rat within 5 minutes, it is not hungry, or is stressed out for some reason.

Feeding live is SO EASY it is feeding pre-killed that is difficult for many snakes.

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Originally Posted by Godzilla78

Just put the rodent in there and wait. Usually within minutes or even seconds, I hear a THUMP, as the snake strikes and constricts the poor little rat! If the snake doesn;t attack the rat within 5 minutes, it is not hungry, or is stressed out for some reason.

Feeding live is SO EASY it is feeding pre-killed that is difficult for many snakes.

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This is generally correct but it really depends on the animal. My most extreme example is a male I have that is too tame. He will only eat FT rats. Runs from live. Has never eaten live.

I do not recommend the following but it is a qwerk of this particular animal and it took me a long time to figure it out because it is so abnormal and against everything we are taught. This boy does not strike. He will only eat if I hand feed him and hold the rat so that it touches his nose. He just casually takes it into his mouth then wraps it. Strange animal. No other animal I have has ever acted like this. I keep waiting for him to get riled up one day and tag me but it has been years and I have never seen this guy get excited once.

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Originally Posted by JodanOrNoDan

This boy does not strike. He will only eat if I hand feed him and hold the rat so that it touches his nose. He just casually takes it into his mouth then wraps it. Strange animal. No other animal I have has ever acted like this. I keep waiting for him to get riled up one day and tag me but it has been years and I have never seen this guy get excited once.

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My spotted python is like your boy, except that sometimes she will strike when I offer prey to her in her enclosure. But if she doesn’t after one offer I get her out and we do the silly-snek hand-feeding routine. [emoji57]



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Originally Posted by Prognathodon

My spotted python is like your boy, except that sometimes she will strike when I offer prey to her in her enclosure. But if she doesn’t after one offer I get her out and we do the silly-snek hand-feeding routine. [emoji57]

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I'm glad to hear I don't have the only oddball.

Is this normal? I finally got my boy to eat on Thanksgiving night after a 5 month fast. He did not take it from my tongs but I decided to leave it in the cage over night and put a dark towel over the entire cage.

I have now offered twice in the last month but both times he has not eaten. Any ideas what is going on? Just normal male and seasonal type thing?

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Originally Posted by maausen

Any ideas what is going on? Just normal male and seasonal type thing?

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Yep. Just keep an eye on his weight. I had one fast for eight months.