Axel Feeding Day!!

It is Axel feeding day and I was wondering should I try to feed him now or tonight?

Thank you!

I usually like to feed at night when BPs are most active. I'm not sure if BPs like to be woken up to feed. Maybe others have a different routine.

I suggest sticking to basics and feeding at night, when nocturnal BPs are most active.

Feed at night. Mine comes right out of the tub to get it. I can barely get it out of the hot water. They are in hunt mode in the evening.

I guess I’m lucky. None of mine have ever refused a meal, and I never offer food at the same time. However, I wouldn’t recommend that till you know your snake more. I’d try at night. Or at least once your snakes room is relatively dark at least


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None of mine care whether it is brunch, lunch, or supper time when they are fed. It sure wouldn't hurt to try during daylight hours. Not sure what there is to lose.:confusd:

Well established or aggressive eaters probably take food at any given time regardless whether it's day or night, I've been feeding mine in the evenings (7pm onwards), and I feel like after 5 weeks Solidus is at a point where he's acclimated to the schedule and knows when his food is coming.

Feeding at night is recommended, but honestly, I'd say figure out what works for you and your snake and go with your gut feeling and whatever feeding schedule you're comfortable with.

Still no luck, should I try Thursday? Maybe he is use to that day to get food.... At Petsmart that was when he was fed. Or maybe the Medium mouse was to big.

But what do y'all think, should I try to feed him in two more days?

Thank you...

EDIT: If he doesn't eat, do I have to wait 3 more consecutive meals again to be able to hold him?

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Originally Posted by Axel28

Still no luck, should I try Thursday? Maybe he is use to that day to get food.... At Petsmart that was when he was fed. Or maybe the Medium mouse was to big.

But what do y'all think, should I try to feed him in two more days?

Thank you...

EDIT: If he doesn't eat, do I have to wait 3 more consecutive meals again to be able to hold him?

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How are you offering his food? Keep in mind, you can leave the feeder in his tank overnight for him (just cover his cage for privacy) to eat at his own pace, just toss the feeder if he doesn't eat my morning,

If today doesn't work out, I wouldn't offer until next week. Generally you don't want to offer food too frequently or often after a refusal as that can stress them out and lead to more refusals. 5 days is the earliest you'd want to try again.

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Originally Posted by MissterDog

How are you offering his food? Keep in mind, you can leave the feeder in his tank overnight for him (just cover his cage for privacy) to eat at his own pace, just toss the feeder if he doesn't eat my morning,

If today doesn't work out, I wouldn't offer until next week. Generally you don't want to offer food too frequently or often after a refusal as that can stress them out and lead to more refusals. 5 days is the earliest you'd want to try again.

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Thank you, but does that mean I'll have to start all over again, but I do also wanna make sure Axel is happy?

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Originally Posted by Axel28

Thank you, but does that mean I'll have to start all over again, but I do also wanna make sure Axel is happy?

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I wouldn't cross today out just yet. When you offered his food did you make sure it was warm, specifically around the face? (blow dryer or heat lamp method?) Bp's rely on a strong heat signature when striking their food. Was he out when you offered his feeder or in his hide? Did he show some interest?

But to answer your earlier question, it would probably be safest to 'restart' the countdown for successful meals yes. But I'll let more experienced folk chime in with their better judgement.

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Originally Posted by MissterDog

I wouldn't cross today out just yet. When you offered his food did you make sure it was warm, specifically the face? (blow dryer or heat lamp method?) Bp's rely on a strong heat signature when striking their food. As he out when you offered his feeder or in his hide? Did he show some interest?

But to answer your earlier question, it would probably be safest to 'restart' the countdown for successful meals yes. But I'll let more experienced folk chime in with their better judgement.

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He is out now but when I tried to feed him he was in his hide.


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Originally Posted by Axel28

He is out now but when I tried to feed him he was in his hide.


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When you offered his food did he show interest in his hide? Tongue flicks or nose poking? Could you explain your method exactly how you presented the mouse/rat to him? how you held it up and if you did any motions? For example, dangling the feeder by the tail isn't recommended or some bp's are turned off by that. Presenting the feeder's nose facing towards your bp tends to be more effective of has a stronger reaction.

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Originally Posted by MissterDog

When you offered his food did he show interest in his hide? Tongue flicks or nose poking? Could you explain your method exactly how you presented the mouse/rat to him? how you held it up and if you did any motions? For example, dangling the feeder by the tail isn't recommended or some bp's are turned off by that. Presenting the feeder's nose facing towards your bp tends to be more effective of has a stronger reaction.

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Tongue flicks and looking at it then he’d instantly turned away. I warmed it up in a bag with hot water then blow dried it to warm it up even more. I did motions and I held it alittle close to his face.


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Okay then you may be better offer just leaving it outside in front of his hide for him overnight (wouldn't hurt to heat it up again with a blow dryer). Just make sure it's not too close or blocking the entrance so he feels trapped. I don't know where his tank is located but try to give him as much privacy as possible with little traffic near his tank. Just remember, come early morning and the feeder is still there, toss it out immediately.

Then try again next week.

Unless there is something I'm missing on methods and someone else can add/help out?

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Originally Posted by Axel28

Tongue flicks and looking at it then he’d instantly turned away. I warmed it up in a bag with hot water then blow dried it to warm it up even more. I did motions and I held it alittle close to his face.


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you might want to try leaving it in there and walking away for an hour or two to see if he takes it. That's what I've been doing for the last 2-3 months.

It’s happens, Ramsey is out and about during the daytime right now. Just exploring, not hungry.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e1114e6ad.heic


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Thank y’all I will try to feed him again tonight, leave it in his cage and if it is still there I’ll toss it out.


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Good luck OP! Like ckuhn003 (we got our bps from the same breeder near the same time) my little guy only ate if I left his mouse outside his hide and if I left the room completely. Generally he would eat within 2 hours after me leaving because "get out of my room mom!" It's only recently Tapioca struck for the first time so hopefully Axel will eat on his own within the next hour or two.

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Originally Posted by MissterDog

Good luck OP! Like ckuhn003 (we got our bps from the same breeder near the same time) my little guy only ate if I left his mouse outside his hide and if I left the room completely. Generally he would eat within 2 hours after me leaving because "get out of my room mom!" It's only recently Tapioca struck for the first time so hopefully Axel will eat on his own within the next hour or two.

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I just tried to feed him and he keep turning his head away and curling up in a ball.
I just left the Small mouse in the tank and i'll check when I go to bed to see if he ate.

Good luck! I hope he eats for you. Fingers crossed!

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Originally Posted by MmmBanana

Good luck! I hope he eats for you. Fingers crossed!

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Thank you! :) This isn't my first time feeding him, but maybe he is a shy eater? And he also ate a medium mouse, but he already pooped so I thought he'd be hungry again, but like I said maybe he is just a shy little one. :)

He may want live my female ate one ft mice and then didnt eat for about a month refusal after refusal i tossed in a live hopper she hasnt missed a meal since shes eating small mice now shes about 93 grams may not be the best method but you will have a happy snake

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Originally Posted by Lapara157

He may want live my female ate one ft mice and then didnt eat for about a month refusal after refusal i tossed in a live hopper she hasnt missed a meal since shes eating small mice now shes about 93 grams may not be the best method but you will have a happy snake

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Hopefully he will eat what I gave him and basically hopefully he is just shy.

Wens the last time he ate? And how heavy is he?

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Originally Posted by Lapara157

Wens the last time he ate? And how heavy is he?

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Last Tuesday is when he last ate and he is 83 Grams. I am (trying) to feed him small mouse. Last Tuesday when he ate, he ate a medium mouse.

How many consistent meals has he had ? Hes a young boy he may not have his eating established yet so if thts the case once he eats a few more times he should be good to go now if he hasnt had a few consistent meals you may have to get him started on live hoppers they are small and theres is not much damage they can do to snake its best to get them eating as soon as possible the longer they take to eat the more problem feeders they become so ive read im not an expert i just oicked my my female in aug so im just learning as i go but like i said she refused for near a month after eating once for me once i got her the live hopper she has been eating loke a champ every 5 days once she gets established you can get her back on ft but its best to get her eating as soon as possible but just be patient it will all workout no matter what you do as long as her husbandry is on point

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Originally Posted by Lapara157

How many consistent meals has he had ? Hes a young boy he may not have his eating established yet so if thts the case once he eats a few more times he should be good to go now if he hasnt had a few consistent meals you may have to get him started on live hoppers they are small and theres is not much damage they can do to snake its best to get them eating as soon as possible the longer they take to eat the more problem feeders they become so ive read im not an expert i just oicked my my female in aug so im just learning as i go but like i said she refused for near a month after eating once for me once i got her the live hopper she has been eating loke a champ every 5 days once she gets established you can get her back on ft but its best to get her eating as soon as possible but just be patient it will all workout no matter what you do as long as her husbandry is on point

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I have only feed him once, and he really couldn't figure it out 'cause he'd keep biting the side of the mouse, but when he did figure it out he glumped it down.
I got Axel from Petsmart and he was on Pinkies.

But anyways, Thank you for your help. :)

My parents say no and I actually agree with them, he needs to eat what he's got, we do not have enough money to spend on live hoppers, this is why I am trying to get a job, so I, WITH MY OWN MONEY, can take care of MY snake.

I do NOT mean to be rude because I LOVE Axel.

Anyways, I am gonna leave at that. Thank you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lapara157

How many consistent meals has he had ? Hes a young boy he may not have his eating established yet so if thts the case once he eats a few more times he should be good to go now if he hasnt had a few consistent meals you may have to get him started on live hoppers they are small and theres is not much damage they can do to snake its best to get them eating as soon as possible the longer they take to eat the more problem feeders they become so ive read im not an expert i just oicked my my female in aug so im just learning as i go but like i said she refused for near a month after eating once for me once i got her the live hopper she has been eating loke a champ every 5 days once she gets established you can get her back on ft but its best to get her eating as soon as possible but just be patient it will all workout no matter what you do as long as her husbandry is on point

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Originally Posted by Axel28

My parents say no and I actually agree with them, he needs to eat what he's got, we do not have enough money to spend on live hoppers, this is why I am trying to get a job, so I, WITH MY OWN MONEY, can take care of MY snake.

I do NOT mean to be rude because I LOVE Axel.

Anyways, I am gonna leave at that. Thank you.

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Not to mention Axel is already an established f/t feeder. Granted he was underfed at Petsmart but still eating f/t. So switching to live this early I feel is completely unnecessary and over complicates matters. Live feeding would be better reserved as a last resort if Axel was refusing numerous meals AND loosing weight regardless of husbandry being on point.

Something else to consider is if OP did offer live, there is a chance (not gaurenteed but still a risk) their bp would no longer accept f/t and that would be a new commitment OP would have to get into.

Since they still live with their parents this could be harder because live feeders are not as easy to obtain and keep, and on the occasion OP has to move out, some places, room mates, land lords, dorm rooms won't be cool with OP keeping a supply of live mice, let alone a snake. It just makes things harder if OP can avoid it. Plus, husbandry should be the first thing to consider looking into before changing feeding methods.

I just think it's way too soon to recommend live so casually when their bp is still in the process of acclimating.

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Originally Posted by Axel28

My parents say no and I actually agree with them, he needs to eat what he's got, we do not have enough money to spend on live hoppers, this is why I am trying to get a job, so I, WITH MY OWN MONEY, can take care of MY snake.

I do NOT mean to be rude because I LOVE Axel.

Anyways, I am gonna leave at that. Thank you.

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Hi friend :) I just wanted to add one thing. My only advice is to keep trying, feed him at night, and make sure those mice are hot! I personally let the mouse thaw for two hours on the top of Fírnen's cage so that he can smell it and his hunting instincts kick in. Then I dip it in hot hot water for about 30 seconds, blast it's head with a hairdryer for another 30 seconds, and offer it immediately.

As I'm offering it, I hold it by the middle with it's head facing Fírnen's head, and I sort of move it from side to side to get him interested. He usually strikes by then. If not, I reheat and try again until he either takes it or shows me that he doesn't want it.

Just wanted to share my technique so that you would have something to compare yours to.. Good luck!

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Originally Posted by Joci

Hi friend :) I just wanted to add one thing. My only advice is to keep trying, feed him at night, and make sure those mice are hot! I personally let the mouse thaw for two hours on the top of Fírnen's cage so that he can smell it and his hunting instincts kick in. Then I dip it in hot hot water for about 30 seconds, blast it's head with a hairdryer for another 30 seconds, and offer it immediately.

As I'm offering it, I hold it by the middle with it's head facing Fírnen's head, and I sort of move it from side to side to get him interested. He usually strikes by then. If not, I reheat and try again until he either takes it or shows me that he doesn't want it.

Just wanted to share my technique so that you would have something to compare yours to.. Good luck!

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I completely forgot about mentioning prescenting!! Good call Joci! It definitely kicks in the hunting drive, I do similar only I thaw my feeder in the fridge the night before then thaw in warm water in a baggie over Tapioca's cage for 45 minutes to an hour, and he's usually out sniffing around afterwards. Then warming under a CHE lamp making sure the body and face of the feeder is especially hot as Joci mentioned. As a reminder a rodents body temp is 98-100 F

OP any luck?

No, he didn’t eat. Should I try tomorrow night? That was when he was feed at Petsmart, so, maybe he is use to Thursday?


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I'd wait and try again next Tuesday instead. As mentioned earlier, offering food again too soon/frequently after a food refusal could lead to more refusals. Being a little hungry won't hurt him and this will give you time to double check your husbandry.

Alright, will do, thanks.


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Just wondering, I know you were planning on adding more stuff but could we see what your full tank set up currently looks like? I'm not sure if there have been any changes yet but we might be able to help with more suggestions that way :)

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Originally Posted by MissterDog

Just wondering, I know you were planning on adding more stuff but could we see what your full tank set up currently looks like? I'm not sure if there have been any changes and we might be able to help with more suggestions that way :)

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Sure, I am gone from home right now, but I know the ambient temps is normally on 83 and the humidity stays between 50% through 60%


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ec8da3bf92.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b49fa25910.jpg

Is this some good pics?

Sorry if I am doing something wrong. :/




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First thing that comes to mind is total lack of security and waaay too much open space and no shelter. In understand budget is a concern and you were mentioning picking up more stuff when you can but Axel may not eat until your set up at the proper additions.

There are some temporary solutions you can use as a place holder until you get more stuff but I'll address the main things first.

I trust you already know the half log hides are not idea and you were in the words of getting more appropriate hides. Just remember they like flat, snug hides that resemble a cave and feel like a turtle shell. So keep that in mind when you shop for replacements. Reptile Basics sells great, inexpensive hide if you're not opposed to ordering online

http://www.reptilebasics.com/small-hide-box

I think Axel will do well in a small.

Way more clutter. Be it fake plants or vines, you need something to crowd up that open floor space. Even using paper towel/toilet paper tubes can help make traveling from point a to point be feel safer. A ball python is used to being attacked from above so he sure when you place your plants and vines, he feels like he can't be seen from above either. The less you see of him the more safe he feels.

You can also never have too many hides, as long as you make sure your matching, primary ones are identical and of the ideal type/size.

You can still keep the half logs, but I'd treat them more as an extra furnishing, making a tunnel or "bridge" Axel can use when he wants to travel between hides. Just keep in mind they can be hard to clean and unless you use sealant (just make sure it's reptile safe), you'll have to toss them out sooner than later as the wood can absorb pee if Axel decides to do business on it.

As for temporary solutions I already mention paper towel tubes, but using crumpled newspaper paper as your "fake plants" may help (just toss when they get wet), cardboard boxes as "structures" to block Axel's view of the glass, or half burying your log hides in more substrate.

What can make this more effective is is you find a flat box of some sort, be it a cereal box or some old plastic containers, whatever can hold substrate in it. Flip it upside down so it's like a sandbox then place the hide in it and make sure one of the openings it's pressed against the back so Axel only have one opening. When you fill it with substrate it will cover more of the hide and hopefully, make it seem more like an underground cave. You can place paper towels or newspaper on top for additional cover, and HOPEFULLY that will help until you can get more suitable hides and actual fake plants. Just remember, nothing with tape.

Dollar stores and craft stores are you friends with that. Other hide budget options Deborah covers on this thread.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...0-Hides-my-way

Hope that helps!

Also how are you measuring your hot spot? You're using an UTH last I recall right? I know you were planning on buying a temp gun. Here is a good affordable one on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMI632G

Good luck with feeding Axel. Like the others have said, keep offering food every 7-10 days until he catches on. Snakes can go long periods without food but he will eat eventually. You might want to consider changing your hides and adding a little more clutter to your tank to give the snake a stronger sense of security. Reptile Basics makes some pretty functional hides. Also, is your heat source regulated with a thermostat?

http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MissterDog

First thing that comes to mind is total lack of security and waaay too much open space and no shelter. In understand budget is a concern and you were mentioning picking up more stuff when you can but Axel may not eat until your set up at the proper additions.

There are some temporary solutions you can use as a place holder until you get more stuff but I'll address the main things first.

I trust you already know the half log hides are not idea and you were in the words of getting more appropriate hides. Just remember they like flat, snug hides that resemble a cave and feel like a turtle shell. So keep that in mind when you shop for replacements. Reptile Basics sells great, inexpensive hide if you're not opposed to ordering online

http://www.reptilebasics.com/small-hide-box

I think Axel will do well in a small.

Way more clutter. Be it fake plants or vines, you need something to crowd up that open floor space. Even using paper towel/toilet paper tubes can help make traveling from point a to point be feel safer. A ball python is used to being attacked from above so he sure when you place your plants and vines, he feels like he can't be seen from above either. The less you see of him the more safe he feels.

You can also never have too many hides, as long as you make sure your matching, primary ones are identical and of the ideal type/size.

You can still keep the half logs, but I'd treat them more as an extra furnishing, making a tunnel or "bridge" Axel can use when he wants to travel between hides. Just keep in mind they can be hard to clean and unless you use sealant (just make sure it's reptile safe), you'll have to toss them out sooner than later as the wood can absorb pee if Axel decides to do business on it.

As for temporary solutions I already mention paper towel tubes, but using crumpled newspaper paper as your "fake plants" may help (just toss when they get wet), cardboard boxes as "structures" to block Axel's view of the glass, or half burying your log hides in more substrate.

What can make this more effective is is you find a flat box of some sort, be it a cereal box or some old plastic containers, whatever can hold substrate in it. Flip it upside down so it's like a sandbox then place the hide in it and make sure one of the openings it's pressed against the back so Axel only have one opening. When you fill it with substrate it will cover more of the hide and hopefully, make it seem more like an underground cave. You can place paper towels or newspaper on top for additional cover, and HOPEFULLY that will help until you can get more suitable hides and actual fake plants.

Dollar stores and craft stores are you friends with that. Other hide budget options Deborah covers on this thread.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?59280-Hides-my-way

Hope that helps!

Also how are you measuring your hot spot? You're using an UTH last I recall right?

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I don't have a Temperature gun, if it was my money i'd get everything that he needs, but it's my parents, I am trying to get a job and even sell my Xbox One.
I know he doesn't have a good living space right now and I am sorry for that.... So, please forgive me...

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Originally Posted by EL-Ziggy

Good luck with feeding Axel. Like the others have said, keep offering food every 7-10 days until he catches on. Snakes can go long periods without food but he will eat eventually. You might want to consider changing your hides and adding a little more clutter to your tank to give the snake a stronger sense of security. Reptile Basics makes some pretty functional hides. Also, is your heat source regulated with a thermostat?

http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes

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Yes, both my heat sources are on Thermostats.

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Originally Posted by Axel28

I don't have a Temperature gun, if it was my money i'd get everything that he needs, but it's my parents, I am trying to get a job and even sell my Xbox One.
I know he doesn't have a good living space right now and I am sorry for that.... So, please forgive me...

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You don't have to apologize to me! No on is mad! Don't worry! We're all just trying to help. I'm just trying to help point you in the right direction and address the reasons why Axel is refusing so we can work around a solution, even temporary :)

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Originally Posted by MissterDog

You don't have to apologize to me! No on is mad! Don't worry! We're all just trying to help. I'm just trying to help point you in the right direction and address the reasons why Axel is refusing so we can work around a solution, even temporary :)

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I am just kinda getting stressed. xD Thank you alot for helping. But what I think is he is either going into shed or is still full from the medium mouse.

Added this last minute in my last post, but I noticed temp guns in local stores tends to be pricey. Online though, especially on amazon they are super affordable and good quality! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMI632G

So, my mom let me get Driftwood, Etekcity Laser grip Temperature gun, AND some vines. The Temperature gun and driftwood will be here friday and the vines the 16th of oct.

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Originally Posted by Axel28

So, my mom let me get Driftwood, Etekcity Laser grip Temperature gun, AND some vines. The Temperature gun and driftwood will be here friday and the vines the 16th of oct.

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Yay!!! Way to go mom! Give her a hug for me :gj:

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Originally Posted by MissterDog

Yay!!! Way to go mom! Give her a hug for me :gj:

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Haha! I will. xD

Should I try to feed Axel now or later, he is out of his hide right now. Probably tonight, right?