Help with raising ambient and cold side temp?

Hello! I'm a new ball python owner and I seem to be running into a problem with the ambient temperature in my terrarium. It never goes over 73, which is too cold for a ball python (or so I've read). My hotspot is good,usually around 87-90, but the cool side and ambient temp are too cold. Humidity is also fine, usually in the upper 50's (57-60). The only heat source I'm currently using is a Zoomed UTH (yes, it's connected to a thermostat don't worry about that either :).

I am currently an Exo-Terra 36x18x18. Yes, I am aware heat and humidity are harder to maintain in a glass terrarium with a screen lid but I do not plan on changing terrariums any time soon. Maybe in the future, but not now. So, I need solutions to this problem that apply to glass terrariums.

Ive thought about using a CHE. Would this be okay? If so what wattage, and is a dimmer or t-stat better?

And just so nobody gets nervous, I do not have the snake yet. I'm waiting until the conditions are right within the terrarium.

Thanks a bunch!

Ceramic heat emitters are the BEST I've found for glass enclosures. A 60 watt ceramic running wide open would yield a perfect 90 degree hotspot and 80 degree coolside on a 20 gallon long aquarium for me running at your same room temp...that's the only advice I can give in that regard, make SURE you get a spare though as they do fail occasionally however.

You may want to consider covering the top of your enclosure with plexiglass (lexon) except for a few small vent holes to hold your humidity once you start using one though. Cut a larger diameter hole in the plexi to clear your lamp fixture that holds the che. It depends how much humidity is in the climate where you live but che's will dry out the enclosure faster.

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Originally Posted by Tinyballs

Ceramic heat emitters are the BEST I've found for glass enclosures. A 60 watt ceramic running wide open would yield a perfect 90 degree hotspot and 80 degree coolside on a 20 gallon long aquarium for me running at your same room temp...that's the only advice I can give in that regard, make SURE you get a spare though as they do fail occasionally however.

You may want to consider covering the top of your enclosure with plexiglass (lexon) except for a few small vent holes to hold your humidity once you start using one though. Cut a larger diameter hole in the plexi to clear your lamp fixture that holds the che. It depends how much humidity is in the climate where you live but che's will dry out the enclosure faster.

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awesome! Thank you so much for the info I really appreciate it! Currently all I have on the top is a towel, but I will definitely consider this! My household humidity is around 50%. May I ask though... What does wide open mean? I'm still kinda new to all of this, sorry haha.

Also, is it safe to use the CHE with the heat pad? Or should I ditch the heat pad entirely?

Thanms again for for the reply, I appreciate it very much :3

as long as both the UTH and CHE are regulated they will be safe to use together. keep the UTH.

wide open means the device running at full power, using all the electricity it can.

i have a 20gal (~24x12x~20in? i'm guessing here) and use a 100W CHE on a rheostat for my ambient temps. this works well for me.

I would continue to use the heat pad. Using it isn'the going to hurt but only help.

When I was using che's I would take a 60 watt , then screw it into a reptile lamp fixture with a simple on/off switch on the cord (the fixture designed to use heat bulbs with the white ceramic top) , then I would take and set the fixture directly on the metal screen top. However, I think a dimmer would be a good idea in case this would be too hot for some reason for you.

The towel could be a potential fire hazard while using the che, lexon is pretty fire resistant but you still want to give your lamp fixture clearance from it and you want to set it on the metal screen top, not the lexon itself. Continue to use the towel if needed but watch it CLOSELY and give it space from the lamp fixture.

Edit: I think Taylor'S idea of a 100 watt with a rheostat is a good idea. Your enclosure is bigger than a 20 long that I was using, so you'll need more power.

When I was using exo terras, I wrapped them in reflectix insulation (it is bubble wrap insulation that is lined with foil) it helped hold temps in the enclosures.

Wow thanks guys, I can't thank you enough! You've solved a problem I've had for a week in a single morning. This is awesome.

I will be sure to pick up some Lexon then, I don't want a fire. I guess I'll also run to home depot and get a dimmer as well- unless you guys recommend a one made secifically for reptiles (if so specific brands and models please). Also are dimmers and rheostats the same thing, or are they different? Again, still new to all of this.

Heat mat stays! Yay haha. I was like, "oh no did I waste a heat mat?" Lol.

Guess ill be running to a couple stores to pick up everything I need then! Is this list good?:
-100 watt CHE
- rheostat/dimmer (?)
- Reptile lamp fixture
- sheet of lexon

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Originally Posted by GiddyGoat

Wow thanks guys, I can't thank you enough! You've solved a problem I've had for a week in a single morning. This is awesome.

I will be sure to pick up some Lexon then, I don't want a fire. I guess I'll also run to home depot and get a dimmer as well- unless you guys recommend a one made secifically for reptiles (if so specific brands and models please). Also are dimmers and rheostats the same thing, or are they different? Again, still new to all of this.

Heat mat stays! Yay haha. I was like, "oh no did I waste a heat mat?" Lol.

Guess ill be running to a couple stores to pick up everything I need then! Is this list good?:
-100 watt CHE
- rheostat/dimmer (?)
- Reptile lamp fixture
- sheet of lexon

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yes, a rheostat and dimmer are the same.

make sure the dome/fixture has a ceramic socket, as other types don't work with a CHE and can cause issues.

My final word of advice, I would cut two 1 inch holes on each end of the lexan for ventilation (total of four holes), then the large circle cut to clear your lamp fixture. That worked perfectly for me.


Edit: I've been calling it "lexon" this whole time....it's actually "lexan"

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

yes, a rheostat and dimmer are the same.

make sure the dome/fixture has a ceramic socket, as other types don't work with a CHE and can cause issues.

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Okay thank you! I'll be sure to look for that specifically. So will a dimmer from the hardware store work fine then? Sorry if this is getting repetitive I just don't want to mess up and potentially injure my new companion.

new list:
-100W CHE
-Dimmer/Rheostat
-reptile lamp fixture WITH ceramic socket
-sheet of lexan**** (lol)

- - - Updated - - -

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Originally Posted by Tinyballs

My final word of advice, I would cut two 1 inch holes on each end of the lexon for ventilation (total of four holes), then the large circle cut to clear your lamp fixture. That worked perfectly for me.

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Awesome, will do!

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Originally Posted by GiddyGoat

Okay thank you! I'll be sure to look for that specifically. So will a dimmer from the hardware store work fine then? Sorry if this is getting repetitive I just don't want to mess up and potentially injure my new companion.

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yes it will. [emoji3]

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

yes it will. [emoji3]

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yay :3. Thanks so much to both of you again, I really appreciate the help, and I'm sure Dewey will too!

FINAL LIST:
-100W CHE
-Dimmer/rheostat (hardware store is fine)
-Reptile lamp fixture WITH ceramic socket
-Sheet of lexan

Thanks a bunch!

I would also really consider some sort of insulation for the glass as well, because if you are adding more things that will dry out the air, once you add wintertime heat (if you live in a place that requires this) your humidity may become quite the struggle. When I had a 40B, the first winter I ended up adding the thick white insulation panels to the sides and bottom (not over the heat pad) of the tank and blocking most of the top. It worked well to keep heat in, and it was cheap ($8 for more than enough panels of coverage.) If you do insulate your tank you can add something like an aquarium background or paper first to salvage some of the aesthetic.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I have a Che 100 w with a dimmer and it still ran way to hot. I had to take it out completely. I might use it again as the weather gets cooler. I also use a 20l glass tank.

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Originally Posted by Tila

I would also really consider some sort of insulation for the glass as well, because if you are adding more things that will dry out the air, once you add wintertime heat (if you live in a place that requires this) your humidity may become quite the struggle. When I had a 40B, the first winter I ended up adding the thick white insulation panels to the sides and bottom (not over the heat pad) of the tank and blocking most of the top. It worked well to keep heat in, and it was cheap ($8 for more than enough panels of coverage.) If you do insulate your tank you can add something like an aquarium background or paper first to salvage some of the aesthetic.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

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ah okay! Thanks so much for the advice! Ill be sure to keep this in mind when I go shopping. Thanks again!

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Originally Posted by Sunnieskys

I have a Che 100 w with a dimmer and it still ran way to hot. I had to take it out completely. I might use it again as the weather gets cooler. I also use a 20l glass tank.

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I have a 36x18x18, which is pretty much a 40 Gal. Do you still think 100W will be too much for that?

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Originally Posted by GiddyGoat

I have a 36x18x18, which is pretty much a 40 Gal. Do you still think 100W will be too much for that?

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No 100w should be great for a 40.

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Originally Posted by Sunnieskys

No 100w should be great for a 40.

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perfect, thanks :3

Okay, so, here's what's happening. I got a fluker's fixture for the 100W CHE, but it doesn't fit between the plastic bars. On another thread I asked and I was told it was okay, and I trust that you guys all know your stuff, but my dad is still really concerned about the CHE melting the plastic the dome rests on and a fire starting (And I sorta still have to listen to him at my age). Will this happen? We're wondering if there's any way we can adjust the screen top to better accommodate the fixture and avoid all chances of melting/fire. Here's some pics so that you can visualize it:

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil.../3/5/69020.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil.../3/5/79683.jpg

shoot I can't get them to work from mobile. Sorry about that. But yeah, again I trust you guys know your stuff but my dad is still really concerned about this. Thanks a bunch!

insulate, insulate, insulate... glass sucks at retaining heat.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...F/IMG_0475.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...v/IMG_0477.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...a/IMG_0476.jpg

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Originally Posted by carldordelman

insulate, insulate, insulate... glass sucks at retaining heat.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...F/IMG_0475.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...v/IMG_0477.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...a/IMG_0476.jpg

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Thanks for the advice and pictures, and nice dollhouse ya got there lol.

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Originally Posted by GiddyGoat

Okay, so, here's what's happening. I got a fluker's fixture for the 100W CHE, but it doesn't fit between the plastic bars. On another thread I asked and I was told it was okay, and I trust that you guys all know your stuff, but my dad is still really concerned about the CHE melting the plastic the dome rests on and a fire starting (And I sorta still have to listen to him at my age). Will this happen? We're wondering if there's any way we can adjust the screen top to better accommodate the fixture and avoid all chances of melting/fire. Here's some pics so that you can visualize it:

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil.../3/5/69020.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil.../3/5/79683.jpg

shoot I can't get them to work from mobile. Sorry about that. But yeah, again I trust you guys know your stuff but my dad is still really concerned about this. Thanks a bunch!

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The solid metal lamp domes are actually not UL listed for use with CHE's, not even the ones with ceramic fixtures. I wish manufacturers would make this fact more obvious. I've only seen it in the fine print. I myself used metal domes for years before I found out. The only fixture approved for use with CHE's is the wire cage type. A few different manufacturers make them. I have the same Exo Terra glass terrarium for one of my beeps, and the small 150w max rated size fits perfectly in one of the plastic frames on the screen. I use a Zilla dome spring clip to hold it on, though I had to use a needle nose pliers to open the hooks a bit so they would go on the smaller mesh screen that Exo Terra uses.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

I could get some flack for this but I have always, ALWAYS focused on the belly heat first. If the snake is cold, the snake will stay on that belly heat and won't really come out. I have a rack system and I don't really check the tubs temps but outside of the tubs I have had ambient temperatures be in the high 70s or 80s in the spring/summer time and than drop to the 60s. I don't have any heater or anything to create a certain ambient temperature. I have not had one snake get sick *knock on wood*, go off food, or have any health problems. This has helped my breeding process as well. Heat lamp is a bit dangerous in my opinion because it can be knocked over, crack lamp, fire hazard, but thats just my opinion and I haven't used a heat lamp when I got into ball pythons. I always had a tub enclosure and a heat tape.

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Originally Posted by GiddyGoat

Okay thank you! I'll be sure to look for that specifically. So will a dimmer from the hardware store work fine then? Sorry if this is getting repetitive I just don't want to mess up and potentially injure my new companion.

new list:
-100W CHE
-Dimmer/Rheostat
-reptile lamp fixture WITH ceramic socket
-sheet of lexan**** (lol)

- - - Updated - - -



Awesome, will do!

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ALso, if you don't have a infared heat gun to check hot spot temps and any other temps you should get one too. should be able to find one for under $20 and it really is a necessity if you're trying to dial in temps for your new friend.

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Originally Posted by Maddumpling

I could get some flack for this but I have always, ALWAYS focused on the belly heat first. If the snake is cold, the snake will stay on that belly heat and won't really come out. I have a rack system and I don't really check the tubs temps but outside of the tubs I have had ambient temperatures be in the high 70s or 80s in the spring/summer time and than drop to the 60s. I don't have any heater or anything to create a certain ambient temperature. I have not had one snake get sick *knock on wood*, go off food, or have any health problems. This has helped my breeding process as well. Heat lamp is a bit dangerous in my opinion because it can be knocked over, crack lamp, fire hazard, but thats just my opinion and I haven't used a heat lamp when I got into ball pythons. I always had a tub enclosure and a heat tape.

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Forgot to add that I live in California so it could be a different situation. I read in another thread where the snake is looking for that perfect body temperature for itself so its finding that perfect spot. I see my snake sometimes on the heat tape and than other times a few inches away from it. I have used heat lamps before, but I have had bad experience due to the snake would be constantly fixated on the heat lamp and the lamps could potentially fall off and break.

Dang it.... I'm really scared now. I didn't know that the metal one's couldn't be used with CHE's.... I should've came back on here sooner. My dad is gonna kill me... So do I have to return the 5.5" and the 75W now? or will it be okay? Please help I'm not sure and I contacted the breeder today, he wants to ship before it gets too cold, so I'm a little pressed for time..

And as for the temp gun, I'm getting one of those as well.

I know I seem like a discombobulated mess, but it's hard communicating with my dad about all of this. I thought I haf it figured out. I will let him know about the problem with the fixture I guess, and tell him again that I need a temp gun.

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Originally Posted by silverdreams

The solid metal lamp domes are actually not UL listed for use with CHE's, not even the ones with ceramic fixtures. I wish manufacturers would make this fact more obvious. I've only seen it in the fine print. I myself used metal domes for years before I found out. The only fixture approved for use with CHE's is the wire cage type. A few different manufacturers make them. I have the same Exo Terra glass terrarium for one of my beeps, and the small 150w max rated size fits perfectly in one of the plastic frames on the screen. I use a Zilla dome spring clip to hold it on, though I had to use a needle nose pliers to open the hooks a bit so they would go on the smaller mesh screen that Exo Terra uses.

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@Silverdreams: this is news to me! thank you for sharing. i'm considering changing out my dome for the wire cage now...

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Originally Posted by GiddyGoat

Dang it.... I'm really scared now. I didn't know that the metal one's couldn't be used with CHE's.... I should've came back on here sooner. My dad is gonna kill me... So do I have to return the 5.5" and the 75W now? or will it be okay? Please help I'm not sure and I contacted the breeder today, he wants to ship before it gets too cold, so I'm a little pressed for time..

And as for the temp gun, I'm getting one of those as well.

I know I seem like a discombobulated mess, but it's hard communicating with my dad about all of this. I thought I haf it figured out. I will let him know about the problem with the fixture I guess, and tell him again that I need a temp gun.

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you're doing just fine. keep the bulb, and return the metal dome for a wire caging like this one. according to the item listing, the socket can work with any bulb up to 250 W. i just might be changing out my dome for this wire one based on @Silverdreams information.

you're almost there! :gj:

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

@Silverdreams: this is news to me! thank you for sharing. i'm considering changing out my dome for the wire cage now...



you're doing just fine. keep the bulb, and return the metal dome for a wire caging like this one. according to the item listing, the socket can work with any bulb up to 250 W. i just might be changing out my dome for this wire one based on @Silverdreams information.

you're almost there! :gj:

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okay.... thanks for all the help guys... I'm just freaking out now. If I was old enough to drive it wouldn't be so much of a problem, but my dad is the one who has to take me to run all of these errands... Hopefully he doesn't get too upset with me. I will see what I can do. Thanks again

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Originally Posted by GiddyGoat

okay.... thanks for all the help guys... I'm just freaking out now. If I was old enough to drive it wouldn't be so much of a problem, but my dad is the one who has to take me to run all of these errands... Hopefully he doesn't get too upset with me. I will see what I can do. Thanks again

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take a deeeep breath. you're learning something new like, every posting so of course you're changing your mind and needing to make adjustments. explain to your dad you found a solution that is UL approved (UL is the leader of product safety testing) and should not be of concern.

one thing i forgot to ask: what is the size of the area between the bars?

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

take a deeeep breath. you're learning something new like, every posting so of course you're changing your mind and needing to make adjustments. explain to your dad you found a solution that is UL approved (UL is the leader of product safety testing) and should not be of concern.

one thing i forgot to ask: what is the size of the area between the bars?

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I actually don't even know... All I know that it's definitely smaller than 8.5", and that that size dome was maybeee an inch or so too big? So estimating somewhere between 6.5" to 7.5"

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Originally Posted by GiddyGoat

I actually don't even know... All I know that it's definitely smaller than 8.5", and that that size dome was maybeee an inch or so too big? So estimating somewhere between 6.5" to 7.5"

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you're going to have to measure it so you know what size dome/wire caging will work. the one i linked is 8.2" wide so it might not work.

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

you're going to have to measure it so you know what size dome/wire caging will work. the one i linked is 8.2" wide so it might not work.

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Yeah, I'm pretty sure that'll be too big. I would measure it now but I'm not at my father's house at the moment. Ugh I need to stop worrying I'm giving myself a headache lol. I'm going to have to order a wire caging anyway, my local pet stores don't carry them, only the Fluker's with (and some without) the dimmers.

So, I just got a reply from my dad.... he actually isn't upset with me at all. I explained everything and he said that we'll just find one that works and it's no problem.... holy shiz am I relived. Thanks again everyone, will update when I have it set up and i begin to regulate the temps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GiddyGoat

So, I just got a reply from my dad.... he actually isn't upset with me at all. I explained everything and he said that we'll just find one that works and it's no problem.... holy shiz am I relived. Thanks again everyone, will update when I have it set up and i begin to regulate the temps.

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Cool dad! Give him a high 5!

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil.../3/5/32086.jpg

Found this on the Fluker's lamp.... What does this mean? Does listed mean approved?

( sorry for terrible quality, my camera did want to cooperate)

It means Flukers paid Underwriters Laboratory to certify their product to not explode or burn down a house when used properly.

Got it, I was skeptical haha.

Sorry to keep adding to this thread, I just want to be sure... is this fixture okay? And can I still set it directly on top of the metal screen?

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...hoCauYQAvD_BwE

Thanks a bunch!

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Originally Posted by GiddyGoat

Sorry to keep adding to this thread, I just want to be sure... is this fixture okay? And can I still set it directly on top of the metal screen?

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...hoCauYQAvD_BwE

Thanks a bunch!

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yes, as long as it fits. [emoji3]

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

yes, as long as it fits. [emoji3]

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It's 5.5" in diameter... perfect! doesn't even come close to touching based on the fluker's one!

Urgh... New dilemma, my dad doesn't think that the Wire cage is going to be efficient at all and that it won't work. I've tried to convince him but after seeing pictures he seems to highly doubt it will do anything when I put it on top of the screen... any help here would be appreciated, I am afraid to use the flukers.... dang it.

It may be the fine print on the specific model. I'm using the 8.5" reflector dome with rheostat/dimmer from Flukers with a 100w CHE and having zero issues. Using this one, which includes text specifically referencing CHE bulb usage.

Dad's probably worried that the wire frame will cause heat loss instead of reflecting the heat into the enclosure. With my current dome, the bulb sits an inch or two above the screen at least, though this lamp came with an arm to use if necessary.

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Originally Posted by hollowlaughter

It may be the fine print on the specific model. I'm using the 8.5" reflector dome with rheostat/dimmer from Flukers with a 100w CHE and having zero issues. Using this one, which includes text specifically referencing CHE bulb usage.

Dad's probably worried that the wire frame will cause heat loss instead of reflecting the heat into the enclosure. With my current dome, the bulb sits an inch or two above the screen at least, though this lamp came with an arm to use if necessary.

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Yeah that was exactly what he was concerned about. I have exactly what you have, only 5.5" and it is advertised for CHE use as well. I might just end up using it... which I hope doesn't anger too many people.

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Originally Posted by GiddyGoat

Urgh... New dilemma, my dad doesn't think that the Wire cage is going to be efficient at all and that it won't work. I've tried to convince him but after seeing pictures he seems to highly doubt it will do anything when I put it on top of the screen... any help here would be appreciated, I am afraid to use the flukers.... dang it.

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I am using wire cage lamps for my CHE, trust me it works just fine ;)

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Originally Posted by SDA

I am using wire cage lamps for my CHE, trust me it works just fine ;)

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Yeah, this is due to the difference between a bulb and a CHE.

This is all IIRC, but a RHP/CHE emits heat differently than say, a regular lightbulb. They emit infrared directly downwards from themselves, which hits your enclosure floor before bouncing. Then having your enclosure's walls be opaque or covered allows the IR to be reflected again (light) or absorbed/retained (dark) like a light or dark shirt on a sunny day.

This shows how they work for human housing to heat a home.

So loss from the sides of the bulb is unlikely to happen since IR works differently than visual light.

Okay.. I'll try to talk to him more about it tomorrow. He doesn't want to talk about it anymore today (it's late here anyway). So I guess I'll see what happens. Thanks for all the help guys

Woo! My temps are FINALLY perfect! But there's a problem now. Even with the plexiglass cover, the humidity won't stay above 45% without me misting every half hour! Do you guys have any recommendations as to what I should do? I was thinking moss. Can I use this and if so what type do you recommend? Thanks!

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Originally Posted by GiddyGoat

Woo! My temps are FINALLY perfect! But there's a problem now. Even with the plexiglass cover, the humidity won't stay above 45% without me misting every half hour! Do you guys have any recommendations as to what I should do? I was thinking moss. Can I use this and if so what type do you recommend? Thanks!

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sphagnum moss, or you can dampen a hand towel and lay it over a hide; i do that with my mesh-top enclosure.

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

sphagnum moss, or you can dampen a hand towel and lay it over a hide; i do that with my mesh-top enclosure.

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Awesome, just picked up some sphagnum moss. Thanks so much for the towel idea too!