Hi, Possibly silly questions...

I got banned from a few facebook groups for BP's because I admitted to keeping them in a glass tank. Are tanks really bad for the snake or just because they were most likely breeders only? I have 20 gallon for a juvenile I just got, UTH+ceramic bulb overhead both regulated with thermostat. Should the UTH stay on 24/7 or turn off at night? At night time I turn off the ceramic bulb and turn on a low wattage purple bulb to simulate the moon.

Also the windows are tinted black, aspen bedding, custom wood hides I built for him according to his size, bunch of bushes / trees.

Sometimes I wake up and he is in the tree, which seems odd for a BP. MAybe cause juvenile. Or because the temperature is too warm in his hide?

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Wow, I cant believe I posted 154 times here... 10 years ago I had a bunch of BP's but memory has caught up to me and I don't remember much any of it :'(

There's a reason I don't join FB groups and it's because the communities are nasty and absurdly close-minded with little to no willingness to partake in civil discussions. There was actually a thread discussing how suitable/unsuitable tanks are if you are interested. https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...lly-unsuitable

As for your UTH, it shouldn't be turned off at night. Since you have it regulated by a thermostat your heat sources are to be running 24/7 to maintain stable temps.

I gave up on FB altogether years ago. There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with glass enclosures. They can be a bit more work, but if you're willing and able to maintain proper husbandry why should it be a problem?

I have glass enclosures and always have. My snakes are well maintained and healthy.

The only problem with tanks is retaining environmental conditions like heat and humidity. There's more than one way to skin a cat


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Welp. Yeah I was pretty sure FB is full of a bunch of nuttas.

the other question I had is for the thermostat sensor, insted of between the UTH and glass, I superglued it under his bedding o the warm side, with a 6x6" thin piece of plastic over top it to prevent him from accidentally rubbing against it. and put bedding over top it. Is this right or should be in between UTH and glass for most accurate?

Where can you get piece of plexiglass cut? I assume does not melt from the light bulbs?

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Originally Posted by neur0tix

Welp. Yeah I was pretty sure FB is full of a bunch of nuttas.

the other question I had is for the thermostat sensor, insted of between the UTH and glass, I superglued it under his bedding o the warm side, with a 6x6" thin piece of plastic over top it to prevent him from accidentally rubbing against it. and put bedding over top it. Is this right or should be in between UTH and glass for most accurate?

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the thermostat probe should NOT be inside the enclosure. even if you think you've taken every precaution of preventing variables that can change the reading, the risk you're taking is just not worth the consequences.

the thermostat probe sandwiched between the bottom of the enclosure and the UTH is not just about accuracy but preventing any type of misreading, fluctuation or variable that can change the reading, and keeping the temp as steady as possible. you can use aluminum tape to adhere the probe to the underside of the UTH (not between the UTH and enclosure) if you don't want to sandwich it.

the risk just isn't worth it. this forum has seen far too many unhappy endings with this same scenario.

OK thx, I relocated it. He seems hella happy on day 7 of having him, he's slivering all over me and chilling. going to try and feed him tomorrow or in a few days. do you have any tips or pointers for taking care of his skin? preventing bad sheds, etc. I mist the tank twice a day, waiting fof my digital humidity thing to come in mail..

what does it mean when they just wrap around your arm and slowly move and squeeze your arm... like they are hugging me, or trying to kill me? xD

Neither -- I've found that mine has trouble gripping my skin for traction, so she squeezes like that to try to move forward. She hasn't figured out that if she let go of my pinky with her tail she might make more progress :rofl:.

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Originally Posted by neur0tix

He seems hella happy on day 7 of having him, he's slivering all over me and chilling.

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As hard as it can be, it is advised to let your snake acclimate for a while before doing any handling. You'll have your snake 30 years if kept properly, so try to wait bit to handle any more. I personally wait until any new snakes have eaten three consecutive meals without refusal before handling, especially juveniles. Letting them get acclimated will be a HUGE advantage when it comes to feeding. Nothing is more frustrating and discouraging than when a new snake won't eat. Poor husbandry and stress due to handling are the two most common reasons for refusals.