What is my ball python trying to tell me ??

So I got my male Mojave ball python last wendsday, he's my first snake too. Anyway, so I asked the staff when is the feeding schedule and what do you feed it? So he said its going to be on Saturday and small adult mice. So I was like great took him home. My hot side temp is at constant 90F, and cold side is low 80F but when it comes at night both temp is going to drop a little. I don't live somewhere that's super cold at night so the temps don't drop that much. And here is what I want to know, I ordered 50 packs of small adult mice online but the order doesn't get here until Thursday, but in the same time I don't wanna starve him so I went to petsmart bought him small rat. When I first time offered it to him, he wasn't interested and when I was trying to use rodent to touch his body he got real scared. So then I felt the rodent in the tub for half of hour see if he would eat it. But no so I had to throw it away(I didn't know you could leave it in there for over night waste of money for me lol). So I was like maybe he doesn't recognize the rat as food and it only eats mice, or probably hes under stress cuz I just got him not too long ago and the time I was feeding him was in afternoon maybe it wasn't late enough for him. So couple days after, I went to the reptile store to ask for advice, and the person was like we feed our snakes with both rat and mice just depends on the size, and he said that majority of ball pythons eat both of them its going to be rare if one only eats rat or mice. He also tells me that once its thawed throw it under the heat lamp for 5 mins to warm it up, and I showed him a picture of my snake and he was like "from the picture I could definity tell you he was eating really good" and if he continue not to eat for the next couple weeks bring him back. After that I was thinking maybe I should try again tonight, because I had this feeling he's gonna eat tonight. So I waited until 11pm thawed the rat and put it under the heat lamp, I wiggled in front of him and again he got scared and went back to hide. So I was like I'm just gonna leave it in there for over night since I know I could. So the next morning I woke up and it was gone! I was thrilled !!!! So here comes my question, is my ball python scared of me or he prefer me to leave the food in there so he could eat alone? So apparently, he eats both mice and rat and that's really good! because I don't have to switch him anyway. And here's a sidenote, everytime I pick him up he would make noises and buff up he obviously don't want me to pick him up.

WELCOME TO THE FORUM! lemme try and dissect this paragraph...

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Originally Posted by 6037201

"So I got my male Mojave ball python last wendsday..."

"...So he said its going to be on Saturday"

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for new snakes, you should give them 5 days to a week to adjust to their new environment. that means no feeding, no handling, minimal enclosure check-ups. my newest girl took almost 3 weeks to adjust and start eating.

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Originally Posted by 6037201

"...and small adult mice."
"...so I went to petsmart bought him small rat."

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there is a HUGE difference between the size of an adult mouse and a small rat. are you sure you have those sizes correct?

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Originally Posted by 6037201

he said that majority of ball pythons eat both of them its going to be rare if one only eats rat or mice.

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this is false. most keepers feed rats due to their higher nutrient content. every now and then we see a snake who's a "mouser" but most keepers will try and get them to switch over to rats.

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Originally Posted by 6037201

He also tells me that once its thawed throw it under the heat lamp for 5 mins to warm it up, and I showed him a picture of my snake and he was like "from the picture I could definity tell you he was eating really good" and if he continue not to eat for the next couple weeks bring him back.

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most people hit the head with a hairdryer to warm it up so the snake believes it's alive. also, if he was "eating really good" then i wouldn't worry about waiting for your feeders to come in.

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Originally Posted by 6037201

So here comes my question, is my ball python scared of me or he prefer me to leave the food in there so he could eat alone?

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he's probably still adjusting to his new environment. i'd give him more time to settle in (no handling), feed him in the next 5 to 7 days and you should start seeing strikes soon enough.

Make sure you check this caresheet out to make sure everything is the way it should be. As far as the "attitude" the snake is giving you, you need to leave him alone for a week and let him adjust to his new home. You bought a lot of mice. He is going to outgrow them before you can feed them all, so you are going to end up double feeding. It is much better for you to have the animal eating rats because they come in the right sizes and it is cheaper. If you feed that many mice, he may develop a preference and you are stuck feeding multiple mice for the next 30 years.

Ah.. Taylor beat me to it....

Welcome to Ball Pythons, they're awkward.

First of all, it sounds like you're using a heat lamp. Consider upgrading to either heat tape or a heat mat. In either case you need a thermostat controlling it. Ball pythons don't bask.

Secondly, don't handle your snake for a week or so, ignore that it exists. I always tell people when they first get a snake to take any photo ops immediately when you get it home. Any checking on the snake can just be added to the stress of getting it home. After that, leave it alone. Don't even look at it, just look at your pictures of it. It needs to get used to its surroundings, and become comfortable. After this you introduce food.

As for feeding it, thaw it out however you like (personally I just let them warm to room temperature by leaving them out for a few hours), then warm the rodent up with your light for about 5 minutes, focus the light on its head if possible, as this suggests a spot for the snake to strike. Try not to bake the rodent by forgetting it.

Are you putting the rodent in the cage or trying to feed from forceps? Mine used to run away from anything I tried to feed him from the hemostats. His first time feeding with me, I left the mouse overnight in front of whichever hide he was in at the time. When I got up in the morning, it was gone. The next few times I had to leave it in there but he'd come out a few minutes later and snatch it up. Now I just have to dangle it in front of him for a few seconds and he'll snap it right off the hemostat.

Yeah, I'm just gonna let him alone for a week. Since he ate and I'm happy about it. And yes, I'm sure about the small rat size because I can see there's small bulge in his belly. For the mice I ordered, I'm not sure because again it was online a web called BIGCHESSEFACOTRY. Because I'm first time snake keeper so I probably make mistakes and such. and for the high nutrition content of rat I mean since he eats both of them next time I would just order it again I guess, do you think I can feed mice and rat together so he grows bigger but in the same time I don't waste any mice. Together I mean two prey together is that too much for him to digest?

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Originally Posted by Oxylepy

Welcome to Ball Pythons, they're awkward.

First of all, it sounds like you're using a heat lamp. Consider upgrading to either heat tape or a heat mat. In either case you need a thermostat controlling it. Ball pythons don't bask.

Secondly, don't handle your snake for a week or so, ignore that it exists. I always tell people when they first get a snake to take any photo ops immediately when you get it home. Any checking on the snake can just be added to the stress of getting it home. After that, leave it alone. Don't even look at it, just look at your pictures of it. It needs to get used to its surroundings, and become comfortable. After this you introduce food.

As for feeding it, thaw it out however you like (personally I just let them warm to room temperature by leaving them out for a few hours), then warm the rodent up with your light for about 5 minutes, focus the light on its head if possible, as this suggests a spot for the snake to strike. Try not to bake the rodent by forgetting it.

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I have both undertank heating pad and a heat lamp.

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Originally Posted by sneksNferts

Are you putting the rodent in the cage or trying to feed from forceps? Mine used to run away from anything I tried to feed him from the hemostats. His first time feeding with me, I left the mouse overnight in front of whichever hide he was in at the time. When I got up in the morning, it was gone. The next few times I had to leave it in there but he'd come out a few minutes later and snatch it up. Now I just have to dangle it in front of him for a few seconds and he'll snap it right off the hemostat.

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I just grab the rat with forceps

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Originally Posted by 6037201

I have both undertank heating pad and a heat lamp.

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how do you regulate your heat sources? ALL sources of heat MUST be regulated by a thermoSTAT.

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

how do you regulate your heat sources? ALL sources of heat MUST be regulated by a thermoSTAT.

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I have 2 thermostats in there, and also another one for humidity.

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Originally Posted by 6037201

I have 2 thermostats in there, and also another one for humidity.

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i think you're confusing thermoMETER with a thermoSTAT. a thermoMETER just measures temperature, a thermoSTAT regulates a heat source and does so using a probe connected to the thermoSTAT.

you NEED a thermoSTAT with a UTH: they can reach over 100° easily and quickly and kill your snake. burns are not a matter of IF but WHEN with an unregulated UTH. here is an amazon link to an affordable thermostat or you can run to a home improvement store and pick up a lamp dimmer for ~$15. PLEASE unplug the UTH and get something regulating it ASAP. a snake will be fine without belly heat for a day or two if the ambient temperatures are within proper range.

Welcome and it looks like you are off to a good start, apart from a couple of hiccups.

Adult mouse and small rat isn't a big size difference.

Some BPs will eat both, but usually they form a preference. And if mice are offered, that preference is often mice!

The only problem with that is that over time, even a adult mouse is sort of a "small" meal. You would have to more then one in one setting to make up for that.
Not all BP's will eat more then one rodent in one setting. So you see where that can potentially turn frustrating. I don't think its so much that rats are higher in nutrition, but that with ONE appropriate sized
rat you can give all the nutrition needed, but with only 1 Mouse you will eventually be short on nutrition, unless your BP will eat more then one in one feeding.

For that reason I feed all my BP's rats from the get go. Never offer mice. For me this has worked just fine.

Since you already ordered the mice, you can feed them off. If one becomes to small a meal, see if your snake will take 2. You possibly risk your snake not taking rats after being used to mice that long, too, but then again, you might be lucky and he won't care one way or another ;)

And yes, your snake IS nervous of you right now, that is why he won't take the food from you yet. In the wild, they are at their MOST vulnerable while they eat. They can't defend themselves, they can't get away easily. Until they feel safe, they will not eat.

Your snake will get used to its new home and routine and may get comfortable to "grab" food from you, but even leaving it in the cage is no big deal. Some just prefer it that way and its actually kind of nice for the handler too. If you have one of those snakes that shoot out of their tub (or cage) to grab the rodent midair before you can even open the enclosure halfway, that will get your heart beating, hahaha..

edited to say: ThermoSTATS are crucial. They are one of the items that are non-negotiable when keeping Ball Pythons..the one TTTaylorrr linked you too is a great one at a great price. But yes, to many snakes end up with nasty burns on unregulated Under tank heaters. Remember, they are supposed to be set around 90 degrees. Our bodies run on 98 degrees Fahrenheit. So if a heat mat feels "warm" to us, or even almost hot, it is waaayyyy to hot for a Ball Python. A cheap temperature gun (can be found for around $15) is a great tool, too, you can take instant temp readings. Of your heat tape, substrate, etc etc

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Originally Posted by zina10

Adult mouse and small rat isn't a big size difference.

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in my head there is :P i can't even remember the last time i've seen a mouse. sorry for getting that wrong!

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

in my head there is :P i can't even remember the last time i've seen a mouse. sorry for getting that wrong!

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Well, it depends on where you get it from.
If you buy them in stores , you often get "weanling" rat sized, if you buy a small one. Then its definitely like a large/adult mouse.
If you order online frozen ones, a small rat can be up to twice the size then a large mouse. But usually, about 1 1/2 or so.

In my experience ;)

Lol, I was gonna say, an adult mouse the size of a small rat seems like a biga** hulk of a mouse. I think the rat pups in my freezer are about adult mouse size.

Adult can mean young adult or retired breeder. Which varies in size.

An adult mouse can be around 40 grams.

A small rat (depending on where you get it) can be around 35 to 80 grams. In petstores you often get that on the lower end, with frozen ones usually around 60 grams.

There are simply pretty wide variances. Best bet is to go by the snakes size and aim for leaving a small bump. Usually meaning the rodents girth should meet the snakes girth, both at their widest size.

I only know the sizes at Petsmart and Big Cheese lol.

At BC, a JUMBO Mouse is 30-50 and a small rat is 50-90