Exo-Terra tank screen vs. heat lamp questions

Hello

I am currently using an Exo-Terra 24 x 18 x 12 (Medium Low) terrarium for my 5 month old ball python, which has a screen top and two plastic cross beams (making 4 quadrants).

My heat set up is that I use a UTH (controlled by Jump Start brand T-stat), and also a lower watt heat lamp to keep ambient temps in check. I live in SoCal so it doesn't get too cold (although right now, overnight it has been getting pretty chilly so sometimes I'll swap for a bit higher watt)... so during the day, I've found the happy spot to be UTH t-stat set at 95*F in combo with a 40w heat bulb. Keeps hot side within the range 88-91 and cool side around 80-81 this way .... night time I'm still experimenting to keep it from dropping too low, but not overheat either....figure getting the dimmer switch on a higher-watt will help me have more control there (and one is currently being shipped to me) .... but anyway..

Also, for the heat bulbs, I am actually switching between two of them on a 12/12 cycle - day and then moonlight (heat only, no UV). I know day is not necessary usually, however her placement in my living room is very dark and gets absolutely no sunlight hitting from a window so, that's why I decided to use a light instead so that there's some sort of day/night pattern

Since I use two bulbs, I am using the Zoo Med mini double-dome that way I can just easily switch between the two lights. This is where I run into a bit of annoyance though with the exo-terra top ...

Since there are plastic cross beams on top of the screen, I have to kind of wedge the light fixture into one of the quadrants so that it's not resting on the plastic, otherwise it will melt... it works if I kind of tilt it diagonally and then wedge it in, but it's a pain to deal with. ALSO, I wanted to get a light stand to hang it on instead that way it's not pressed against the screen constantly

My question is - If I use a stand to hang the light over the top, will the light hovering over still melt the plastic?? Basically, I'm not sure what a safe distance is -- does anyone else have a similar set up? (either with light or CHE?) ....should I not use the stand?

OR even better -- is there an all-screen top that fits on these exo-terras that I could replace it with so I dont have to worry about the plastic at all?

Thanks for any insight!

Darn it, I accidentally posted the the thread in the process of making the title, sorry for the confusion!! I'm new here, is there any way to edit the title? Meant to say Exo-terra tank and heat lamp question or something along those lines

Nevermind, figured it out

If you hang that Heat lamp your going to loose the heating effect into the tank most likely..Post a pic of the situation for ideas.

I cant take a pic right now of MY set up since I'm at work, but this is the screen that's on top to show what I'm working with.... and then the light dome is the zoo med brand combo deep mini (so like two mini's stuck together in one).... BARELY fits into one of those quadrants if I tilt it diagonally and kinda jam it in there:

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...-exo-terra.jpg

If I increase the watt on the bulb, it wont adjust for the fact that it's hung up? I wonder if I can even hang a double one

I actually just received the stand in and haven't even opened/tried it yet... it looks as if it's better suited for just a single lamp, but I figured it could still probably work for the double (and the double does have a metal hanger thing on it) ... but I'm a newbie at all this, so maybe I'm wrong

original reason I ordered the stand was because unless I was using a low 40-watt bulb (which is what I have in it now since it's against the screen), it was heating up too much as the day went on with the higher watt (75w) and I got worried about over heating

Maybe just the dimmer switch is all I need? I wasn't sure if always being up against the screen was ideal or not

Well, and plus the annoyance of having to jam the fixture in between the plastic cross beams... I could deal with it, but it's annoying.

If you rest your double lamp directly on that top and it is touching that plastic cross member it may get melted some.

The good thing about the stand is you will be able to hover your lamp over the screen without touching the plastic.

Here's a tip if you don't want to be spending money on bulbs every 1-3 months:

Buy a 100 or 150 watt bulb and hook it up to dimmer. Use a temp gun to dial in the proper heat 88-90. Went done right your dimmer will be turned down to roughly 50-60% power.

This keeps your bulb filiament from getting too hot and burning out.

I have done this for over 2 years on 4 tanks and have yet to replace a bulb. And these bulbs run 24/7.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...952635f9af.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e1c1495c4f.jpg

My Exo- Terra tank on the left

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Reinz

If you rest your double lamp directly on that top and it is touching that plastic cross member it may get melted some.

The good thing about the stand is you will be able to hover your lamp over the screen without touching the plastic.

Here's a tip if you don't want to be spending money on bulbs every 1-3 months:

Buy a 100 or 150 watt bulb and hook it up to dimmer. Use a temp gun to dial in the proper heat 88-90. Went done right your dimmer will be turned down to roughly 50-60% power.

This keeps your bulb filiament from getting too hot and burning out.

I have done this for over 2 years on 4 tanks and have yet to replace a bulb. And these bulbs run 24/7.


My Exo- Terra tank on the left

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Thank you! So do you think that if I hover the lamps over, if some of the light still hits the plastic it shouldn't melt? Since it's not RIGHT up against?

Right now, since I jammed it into one of the quadrants, the only part touching the plastic is the outside lip of the lap, and it seems to be OK, although I only have 40watt bulbs in there right now, since the 75w seemed to heat it up too much without a dimmer on it. But I just received my dimmer so now I can probably put the higher watt back in and just turn it down some -- especially at night. During the day, the 40w is actually perfect by itself, it's only really night time that it gets too cool. Too cool with the 40watt, but heats up too much with the 75w... it's so frustrating

The Dimmer will really help your flexibility.

On one of my other tanks I used to have, the hovering on a stand worked out really well. But you may not have to worry about that anyway since you have the dimmer switch.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Reinz

The Dimmer will really help your flexibility.

On one of my other tanks I used to have, the hovering on a stand worked out really well. But you may not have to worry about that anyway since you have the dimmer switch.

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What if he bent the Bell Housing a tad bit? Just enough so that it fit in between the cross member? I just looked at my CHE and I have the same housing as you Reinz and i have atleast 2" on each side of the CHE to bend and play...alot of clearance.

My boyfriend has the same medium-low tank that I am helping him set up for a ball we're getting on the 25th. I ordered two 8.5" Flukers brand porcelain socket clamp lamps w/ combined lamp dimmer switch, each for 13.48 on amazon prime. Those sized lamps should fit easily within the quadrants, and like you we are using them to maintain ambient temps during the day and night with the bulbs on a 12/12 timer switch. I haven't gotten everything in yet to experiment with temps and once I do that I will decide if I need lamp stands, but honestly with how much snakes like to push against the screen tops of their enclosures, I feel more comfortable having them on stands just for safety reasons. I ordered 75watt bulbs (zilla blue daylight incandescent and flukers black nighttime) to go with the lamps and plan to tweak the heat output with the built-in dimmer switches that come on both lamps.

With your setup, I would get a lamp stand (does your lamp have a clamp?) and some higher wattage bulbs, just to avoid melting the plastic cross beams or burning your snake.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Reinz

Here's a tip if you don't want to be spending money on bulbs every 1-3 months:

Buy a 100 or 150 watt bulb and hook it up to dimmer. Use a temp gun to dial in the proper heat 88-90. Went done right your dimmer will be turned down to roughly 50-60% power.

This keeps your bulb filiament from getting too hot and burning out.

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What about using a bulb that's higher wattage than the lamp's output? I would think it wouldn't be an issue (lamp with low max wattage wouldn't affect higher wattage bulb?) but I don't know too much about the mechanics of electronics.

Also, kind of curious SpacegirlSpiff, what dimensions did you choose for your UTH? I think I'm going with an 11"X11" from reptile basics, also regulated by jumpstart t-stat.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trisnake

What about using a bulb that's higher wattage than the lamp's output? I would think it wouldn't be an issue (lamp with low max wattage wouldn't affect higher wattage bulb?) but I don't know too much about the mechanics of electronics.

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I dont know. I would think that as long as the bulb was dimmed you would be ok since you are using lower wattage at 50-60% output. But it is probably best not to gamble like that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trisnake

Also, kind of curious SpacegirlSpiff, what dimensions did you choose for your UTH? I think I'm going with an 11"X11" from reptile basics, also regulated by jumpstart t-stat.

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I'm using the small size zoo med (for 10-20 gal) and seems to be working well

That size you said is probably fine

What kind of bulbs are you guys using? I just ordered a 48x18x21 tank and am now buying the heating stuff on amazon. I already picked a non light ceramic bulb and two dimmable domes. I'd like the second dome to have a bulb with light on the cold side for ambient temperature and day light since my room is also pretty dark during the day. It should be able to reach down the full 21". The domes I have picked out are the "Fluker's Repta-Clamp Lamp 8.5-Inch Ceramic with Dimmable Switch" on amzn.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Paty

What kind of bulbs are you guys using? I just ordered a 48x18x21 tank and am now buying the heating stuff on amazon. I already picked a non light ceramic bulb and two dimmable domes. I'd like the second dome to have a bulb with light on the cold side for ambient temperature and day light since my room is also pretty dark during the day. It should be able to reach down the full 21". The domes I have picked out are the "Fluker's Repta-Clamp Lamp 8.5-Inch Ceramic with Dimmable Switch" on amzn.

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I just use regular red bulbs from Zoo Med or Exo Terra since that is what the pet stores near by carry.

If you haven't got a temperature gun yet you might want to get one. They are invaluable for getting your temps dialed. They run $20 and up. Available on Amazon.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Reinz

I just use regular red bulbs from Zoo Med or Exo Terra since that is what the pet stores near by carry.

If you haven't got a temperature gun yet you might want to get one. They are invaluable for getting your temps dialed. They run $20 and up. Available on Amazon.

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I have a thermostat that regulates the temp on the warm side with a probe on the bottom of the tank.


On top of that I have:

Warm side (Digital)
1 ambient temp & 1 ambient humidity
1 substrate temp & 1 substrate humidity

Cold side (Digital)
1 ambient temp & 1 ambient humidity
1 substrate temp & 1 substrate humidity

Middle (Analog)
1 ambient temp & humidity

I just need a bulb with light so he doesn't sit in the dark. A little bit of heat because our house temp is pretty cold (69F) I like the digital screens that are always on better than temp guns because I can check everything by just glancing. And since there are like 6 separate ones, I'll notice if one starts getting wonky.

For ambient light, why don't you just get a cheap LED light or bulb or whatever and either use a timer or turn it on and off manually to provide some amount of day/night cycle? Then your lighting and heating can be controlled separately and you don't have to worry about having room for multiple different lamps and controlling them, etc.


Especially since you're likely to need to cover over a lot of the screen top in order to maintain humidity levels at least some of the time.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Coluber42

For ambient light, why don't you just get a cheap LED light or bulb or whatever and either use a timer or turn it on and off manually to provide some amount of day/night cycle? Then your lighting and heating can be controlled separately and you don't have to worry about having room for multiple different lamps and controlling them, etc.


Especially since you're likely to need to cover over a lot of the screen top in order to maintain humidity levels at least some of the time.

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The LED wouldn't be adding any heat so I'd have to have a third dome on top for a heat source. The warm side has a UTH and a ceramic from the top. The heat+light dome would be on the cold side so that it's not AS cold and would also add light for the rest of the tank.

If it's just some kind of light for day/night, it doesn't have to be in a dome fixture on top of the screen at all. It can be a regular table lamp nearby or something, or a strip of those LED strip lights (you can get them on Amazon for cheap) stuck so they light the inside of the cage.

Reasoning is, you need the same amount of heating at night as during the day, basically. So unless you want to swap bulbs in and out all the time (doesn't sound like a satisfactory long term solution), just use the nighttime heating setup all the time and get a day/night cycle from somewhere else. It doesn't have to be a bright spotlight from directly above.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Coluber42

If it's just some kind of light for day/night, it doesn't have to be in a dome fixture on top of the screen at all. It can be a regular table lamp nearby or something, or a strip of those LED strip lights (you can get them on Amazon for cheap) stuck so they light the inside of the cage.

Reasoning is, you need the same amount of heating at night as during the day, basically. So unless you want to swap bulbs in and out all the time (doesn't sound like a satisfactory long term solution), just use the nighttime heating setup all the time and get a day/night cycle from somewhere else. It doesn't have to be a bright spotlight from directly above.

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When the sun rises it has heat and when it gets dark at night, the air gets colder too. Wouldn't it be more natural to have the light be the heat and both go away at night? The warm side would still stay warm. And the temp would not be dropping super far. It would just be similar to the real sun I figured.